Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[kws]

Im having a nightmare getting the bloody axle out at this point, it'd be a welcome sight to have oil come out with it. Slide hammer puller is on the way, hopefully that sorts it.

[ajg193]

I once used a sledgehammer with some chain tied to the end of the axle.

These days my axle housing is loose enough that I can just pull the axles out by hand, bit concerning really

[JustHarry]

4 hours ago, kws said:

Im having a nightmare getting the bloody axle out at this point, it'd be a welcome sight to have oil come out with it. Slide hammer puller is on the way, hopefully that sorts it.

Usually I flip the drum and put a few wheel nuts on by a few threads and use the drum as a slide hammer 

[kws]

1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

Usually I flip the drum and put a few wheel nuts on by a few threads and use the drum as a slide hammer 

Unfortunately not working, any more and I'll either pull the car off the stands or break the drum.

[GARDRB]

Ok dumb computer guy question for the day. 

I'm in the process of re-routing my brake line for the rear in my ke70 and found the brake proportioning value in the weekend. I've switched from factory drums in the rear to AE92 FXGT calipers and I have MRP Wilwoods in the front. I'm running the factory master as this is what Barry at MRP has matched the WIlwoods to. I've got a single in single out proportioning valve which looks a lot like an AE86 proportioning valve. 

 

I've seen some people suggest gutting the factory proportioning valve. Does anyone know if Toyota used the same housing with a different spring pressure in the valve across different models? I'm almost tempted to go to an adjustable valve, but would rather not buy more things for the system if I don't need to. 

Any suggestions about what to do RE prop valve I'm all ears. @Dudley might even be convinced to give me his Wilwood one for free

[Adoom]

19 hours ago, kws said:

Unfortunately not working, any more and I'll either pull the car off the stands or break the drum.

You have definitely removed ALL the bolts, right? 

[mjrstar]

@GARDRB if it's single line I'd suggest placing that in the bin and running a manual bias valve.

When i did the disc conversion on my kp I found with the bias valve in place the rears are too gutless, and with it gutted it's too much rear bias.

I have the cheapest (sub $100) willwood unit in my honda and it's great, and allows tweaking between wet and dry setup.

[kws]

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

You have definitely removed ALL the bolts, right? 

There's only 4!

The drum backing plate and the little bearing cover plate are freely wobbling about.

I have moved the bearing a little, and I can see a nice line of rust around it. I presume it got moisture around it (maybe in it, too) when sitting for years.

[Dudley]

2 hours ago, GARDRB said:

Ok dumb computer guy question for the day. 

I'm in the process of re-routing my brake line for the rear in my ke70 and found the brake proportioning value in the weekend. I've switched from factory drums in the rear to AE92 FXGT calipers and I have MRP Wilwoods in the front. I'm running the factory master as this is what Barry at MRP has matched the WIlwoods to. I've got a single in single out proportioning valve which looks a lot like an AE86 proportioning valve. 

 

I've seen some people suggest gutting the factory proportioning valve. Does anyone know if Toyota used the same housing with a different spring pressure in the valve across different models? I'm almost tempted to go to an adjustable valve, but would rather not buy more things for the system if I don't need to. 

Any suggestions about what to do RE prop valve I'm all ears. @Dudley might even be convinced to give me his Wilwood one for only $250

 

[cletus]

3 hours ago, kws said:

There's only 4!

The drum backing plate and the little bearing cover plate are freely wobbling about.

I have moved the bearing a little, and I can see a nice line of rust around it. I presume it got moisture around it (maybe in it, too) when sitting for years.

can you get a map torch or similar on the bearing housing, give it a bit of a warm up see if that helps

[shrike]

4 hours ago, kws said:

There's only 4!

The drum backing plate and the little bearing cover plate are freely wobbling about.

I have moved the bearing a little, and I can see a nice line of rust around it. I presume it got moisture around it (maybe in it, too) when sitting for years.

Rear bearings right? might be time to think about dropping the whole diff out?

Want to post some pics/video and is it one side or both?

Could you seal the diff housing and try pop it out with compressed air? (id have something to stop it from firing out)

[kws]

2 hours ago, cletus said:

can you get a map torch or similar on the bearing housing, give it a bit of a warm up see if that helps

I dont have fire, but i tried heating the housing up with my heat gun. Got it hot enough i couldnt touch it, but didnt help.

1 hour ago, shrike said:

Rear bearings right? might be time to think about dropping the whole diff out?

Want to post some pics/video and is it one side or both?

Could you seal the diff housing and try pop it out with compressed air? (id have something to stop it from firing out)

Yeah Borg Warner solid rear axle. Access isn't an issue on the car, it's just stuck in there and the drum method isn't giving me enough thump. Slide hammer should be here tomorrow, so hopefully that frees it from its home. The Leyland manual does say to use "special tool impulse extractor 18GA284" or slide hammer for short.

[mjrstar]

Have successfully used a spare axle and a bit of chain an a couple of d shackles for such activities..

 

also have a home made slide hammer made from a bit of thick walled galv pipew along bolt  and a plate on the end which has extracted anything from an evo intermediate shaft to diesel injectors with Whatever homemade attachment was needed.

[Nominal]

10 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Have successfully used a spare axle and a bit of chain an a couple of d shackles for such activities..

 

also have a home made slide hammer made from a bit of thick walled galv pipew along bolt  and a plate on the end which has extracted anything from an evo intermediate shaft to diesel injectors with Whatever homemade attachment was needed.

Heh, I made an axle puller from some random bits of steel plate, bar and pipe, alter upgraded with a sledgehammer head with a broken handle. Worked fine.

I finally bought a proper one from a bnt sale but have hardly used it.

(2002 called and wants its lofi camera back)

[87creepin]

@kws maybe try this https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/gasmate-multi-purpose-blow-torch/p/387804?store=88&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw99e4BhDiARIsAISE7P_ISar7sPpxDHBRl2oWzwWwEeZWgfqWV0AzmjvhIZL-6TDz-3ntjB4aAoWZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

and a bottle of butane 

a lot of heat, followed by crc and your slide hammer should work 

[Goat]

I'm about to embark on some rust repairs, and am keen to get some good kit to make it a more enjoyable experience.

Can anyone recommend some good snips for cutting sections out of sheet metal to make patch panels.

I've already got left, right and straight snips. But after something for the longer straight cuts.

 

Also, can anyone recommend a power hacksaw for cutting out rust sections? I've got a grunty compressor so air tools are fine.
Are the 90 degree air die grinders with sanding pads on them that i always see on youtube vids good for cleaning up the metal around the patch?

[Corbie]

Gilbow style snips.

https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/740-toolshed-350mm-tin-snips?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw99e4BhDiARIsAISE7P-EZLTRODuXdC2fOI2Xapm6HKIeLqVuVFgGtsw4fK1-pgu7yBT_N1EaAvGjEALw_wcB

[Dudley]

42 minutes ago, Goat said:

I'm about to embark on some rust repairs, and am keen to get some good kit to make it a more enjoyable experience.

Can anyone recommend some good snips for cutting sections out of sheet metal to make patch panels.

I've already got left, right and straight snips. But after something for the longer straight cuts.

 

Also, can anyone recommend a power hacksaw for cutting out rust sections? I've got a grunty compressor so air tools are fine.
Are the 90 degree air die grinders with sanding pads on them that i always see on youtube vids good for cleaning up the metal around the patch?

I have a pair of right and left Midwest snips and they have been amazing and worth the $$$

for body saw I got Astro one and it’s been really good for the price

https://nz.jbtools.com/astro-pneumatic-930-air-saber-saw-with-5-piece-blade-set/?srsltid=AfmBOorQThGbXP_hPLiNHxAwO1h61wIjzr4WkWIJVlGeBuHOOMiYAmN0

 

yeah 90degree die grinder are the go to tool for grinding back the welds and not thinning the metal around the weld

 

 

[Nominal]

2 hours ago, Goat said:

I'm about to embark on some rust repairs, and am keen to get some good kit to make it a more enjoyable experience.

Can anyone recommend some good snips for cutting sections out of sheet metal to make patch panels.

I've already got left, right and straight snips. But after something for the longer straight cuts.

 

Also, can anyone recommend a power hacksaw for cutting out rust sections? I've got a grunty compressor so air tools are fine.
Are the 90 degree air die grinders with sanding pads on them that i always see on youtube vids good for cleaning up the metal around the patch?

The hand snips I use most often are the offset ones like this, way better than the straight style ones. These work well even though they are old and a bit shaggy.

For cutting steel out of larger sheets this tool is great, I have a powered nibbler/punch thing too but never use it now as it makes such a mess with all the little punchings.

 

These are good too I think, but I don't one.

HS2S Throatless Hand Lever Shear - Machineryhouse

 

[AllTorque]

Power file / finger sander is great for finishing welds.