cletus

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Everything posted by cletus

  1. A mount attached to the side of a chassis rail has to span the whole height of the rail So if your chassis is RHS you cant butt weld a flat plate to half way down the rail as it will cause cracks. So you could either make gussets that go full height of the rail, or weld a reinforcing plate on first which I'm picking is what you are talking about
  2. You're a brave man Rust like that gives me the heebie jeebies
  3. Sweet! How much tarmac vs gravel do you plan on riding?
  4. Have a look at the modification threshold on lvvta.org.nz. that shows what you can do without cert It wouldn't be much though. Tyre size would be limited by no more than 5% greater overall diameter, offset rules limits how sticky outy the wheels can be, and lift would be limited by what springs you can fit in a factory shock and still have 40mm droop
  5. What's the last pic of? I cant see anything Also lol at @piazzanoob plate. Sounds like something my dad says. Good to see the galaxie is mobile again
  6. cletus

    Diffs

    Yeah the surface area of the friction that it relies on to jam the side gears is fuck all compared to even oem lsd units Looks like a less effective version of a lock right unit that costs similar. Although I guess there are applications where one of these might be too aggressive https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-1610-lr
  7. Mine looks a bit different I think I wired it so the engine runs by itself and the switch earths out the coil, lights etc run off the key
  8. Cant help you because I too am retarded But there was a trap with my one which I'm not sure yours has, the ignition switch has 2 positions , start and run... start has a rpm limit so it cant get away on you Took me a while to figure why it would idle but not rev
  9. Yes definitely get that sorted. Contact your certifier and he should be able to get you a new one
  10. In my experience once they have been welded, they often crack again at the same place or at the edge of the weld I had 3x 19"rims welded by a wheel repair specialist, they were all fucked again within a year. That was on cheap wheels on a car that did a lot of km though so yours might last better
  11. I did a bit of research on that type of battery, they dont vent under normal circumstances but have a venting system for if they get over pressurised- like if they get overcharged. Checked with LVVTA and that means they have to be vented outside the car, either by a vent tube if the battery has the provision for it, or put inside a sealed box which vents outside the car. Protected against short circuits I've always interpreted as having the positive terminal covered so a stray wheel brace in the boot or similar cant short the 2 terminals, and the cable routed away from sharp edges etc
  12. Cant see why not if the hinge and catch mounts are strong enough, and the window is the right kind of glass , ie has a safety mark
  13. A long as you used high tensile welding gas that will be fine
  14. Hello Richard, There isn't a bolt size spec for attaching a battery for cert, it is pretty standard practice to attach a normal lead acid battery with 2 'j' bolts so if you do it to motorsport specs you will be fine You could do it either way that you have described if I was making something myself I'd probably use 4x 6mm bolts to attach the frame to the floor then bolt the battery to the frame Words from the rules-
  15. Previously certed items only need a quick once over to make sure they are ok, but generally are covered by the original cert. So in your case, a certifier would check things affected by the swap, like the gearbox mounting, driveshaft, brake pedal etc, but wouldn't have to cert the engine mounts or do the emissions side of the paperwork as that is covered by the original cert, but would have a quick look at the mounts to make sure they were not held together with chewing gum, tek screws or cable ties
  16. Try Iain at autolign in mt Wellington
  17. Bicknell autosport engineering in east tamaki, they do some pretty interesting stuff. I'm not actually sure if he did it or gets it done somewhere else, I just dropped off an old bit of fuel pipe I'd bent into the shape i needed
  18. Do you mean changing the master cylinder size? Or just replacing a worn one for a new one? I think the intention is to prevent people swapping parts that there may be differences between manual and auto spec which might be a safety issue that doesnt get picked up by a wof inspection
  19. The modification threshold got updated, new or different info is in yellow https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf
  20. Yes will need cert for 2 potential reasons, 1. Car needs to match what the cert plate says If it didn't have a cert already, 2. Threshold says it's ok to swap auto to manwell, if you use optional oe parts....the kicker is if you change to a manual brake pedal or modify the oe pedal, that needs cert
  21. Archers springs in takanini for leaf spring upgrades
  22. I'll probably get it as close as I can myself then dyno to finish it properly Finding someone who wants to do it or knows how might be a bit of a challenge but that's later on clints problem
  23. One side done, got some 25x4 tube bent, 3mm plates on the chassis rail and glued in