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Everything posted by cletus

  1. Rear swaybar? Must be the bathurst edition? I'd recommend having a yarn to the repair certifier before doing anything to the undersides Covering anything with paint or underseal can lead to headaches , have had many customers do things like that then have to strip it all off again for repair cert inspection They may also have recommendations for someone to blast it if that's what it needs If you do need to get it blasted I'd strip it as much as you can so there's as little things to get sand in and overspray on as possible. The people who do it for a job are not the sharpest tools in the shed so it's not uncommon to see the chrome on shock shafts get a blast or other dumb things They are also only good at painting in their line of sight so be prepared to have to touch it up yourself Here's one I have on the hoist right now actually
  2. Those spacers must have the same spigot system as the arms do There isn't a maximum height but that's because they usually are not that big, around 40mm is the most common size from memory
  3. Buy 2 and put another motor in the back
  4. Neat car but I think for conversions like that to become popular, the price of ev parts will have to come down a lot. 100kw, granted it would have heaps more torque, but a stock 4age has the same power? And it cost 30k The fact it costs less to run isn't really that much of a plus unless you do heaps of kms, as the higher initial build cost would take forever to gain back in fuel savings on a weekend only sort of car
  5. I got some different mirrors. These are "sport" mirrors. They were standard on 454SS trucks , with the powerful bathurst winning two hundred and thirty horsepower 7.4 litre engine coupled to a 3 speed automatic transmission. These were well known as being extremely fuel efficient, Toyota copied the fuel injection system for the first gen prius and were not able to get the same economy on petrol as the SS I have a theory that the SS's incredibly low fuel consumption is because of the small mirrors so I'm expecting to get a result where my 350 actually makes petrol go back into the tank. Also now I can't see behind me as good but I don't care because I'm not living in the past maaaaan
  6. @bigfoot is the resident Mitsubishi fiddler he may be able to help on interchangeability
  7. When it came out the side behind the wheel= louder than standard, it has a 3" pipe and a stainless straight thru muffler. My boss took it to a muffler shop to get the cat removed and headers fitted. The muffler guy cbf fitting the headers so cut the cat out and changed the muffler instead. Boss was a bit ?? Anyway When I lowered it I chopped it off at the muffler= very loud, made all the plastic on the rear cab wall rattle Side exit in front of the wheel= somewhere in between Eventually I'll re do the exhaust , fit the headers and probably make it a little bit quieter I disassembled the grille and painted the inserts black and fitted new headlights the other day, front looks a bit tidier I looked at new grilles on rockauto and they are pretty cheap ($180 ish) but freight was over a grand so nope nope nope this grille will be fine
  8. I didnt actually know about pushlock needing clamps until this lockdown actually, was trying to find suitable hose for my own car that doesnt crack and perish, many of the hose manufacturers recommended clamps if over x temp or pressure What you mention makes sense though , you wouldn't want to use clamps that put too much pressure on the hose and cut it
  9. Nice car! Is this the radio you are talking about? Says Plymouth on it though
  10. Yep, will need clamps if pressure is over 60psi on a pushlock fitting
  11. Notes 3 and 4 in the box say they have to be assessed to CCM spec if they are custom made or not identifiable Here is the CCM requirements
  12. It gets very very difficult when you cant prove who made them, to the point where I bought a new set of spindles that had a brand name (belltech) cast into them to replace some other ones I already had (probably chassistech but I couldnt prove it 100%) They are a good way of lowering a vehicle if they have been designed correctly and you dont mind doing the supporting modifications that often go with them This is what the standard says
  13. Yep as long as its purpose designed automotive fuel hose Only applies/applied to vehicles with a significant power increase over oe or a modified drive shaft
  14. Cert check sheet for fuel hoses and pipes
  15. Fuel line- as long as its actual fuel line that will be fine, try and find good quality hose as it seems there is varying levels of quality available and some go hard and crack/perish quickly which is an extra pain when the whole fuel line is rubber As for mounting in the tunnel there is a requirement for making sure a failed drive shaft rotating in a driveshaft loop cannot contact a fuel or brake line, this appears to have been relaxed from what it used to be, you had to fit a rear loop as well when running fuel or brake lines in the tunnel This requirement has always puzzled me, as you cant protect the whole fuel or brake line from a broken shaft, as it depends where the shaft breaks I recommend running the fuel or brake lines away from the tunnel if possible for this reason
  16. Znoelli.co.nz can custom make spacers to your measurements They are in Auckland though
  17. I have no recommendations, but my, what a lovely motor vehicle you have
  18. Lockdown is good for small jobs Made the exhaust come out the side Then re made the mount because I fucked it up and it was too low Blast and painted the wipers and fixed the flaky paint on the mirror, couldnt pull them apart because the screws were loose and also siezed so ordered some smaller mirrors off rockauto Also being in lockdown means looking at things that would be nice to change so another rock auto order turned up today, thermostat, tail gate straps, new door handles, and some new headlights . The only thing I actually needed was one tailgate strap, ha.
  19. Not a dumb question at all It's a different situation when its scratch built vs modified production reg on hold vs dead reg modified production and it can be confusing In your case, best to check with your certifier, i think it would be a good idea to show him before you put liner on or at least take heaps of photos, especially if there are mods in that area Its slightly different to a repair certifier who definitely would need to see it before paint or underseal , which is what you have probably read about. Because your vehicle is "new" there is no requirement for a repair cert Being scratch built there should be no problem removing the tag off the firewall as that wont be the vehicles identifier . Leave the chassis number on the chassis though, dont grind it off. Keep the reg/s on hold until the project is done and on the road, and having paperwork etc to prove you own both donors makes it clear that nothing's shady
  20. Nah I put the hole in the side of the cap so you couldnt see it If your cap doesnt have sides it would look shitty though. What about one of those neodymium magnets? I wonder if one of those would remove them
  21. For the hook? I used a coat hanger wire from memory, small hook one end and a finger sized loop on the other
  22. This x 100. It's great to see it progressing, and so quickly
  23. I did see a budget turbo setup in nz on a big block Chrysler, where they modified a vac advance unit on the distributor to work backwards somehow, so it retarded timing under boost , might be something to look into That's a good idea, when the fuel level got low in mine the fuel would start getting hot, especially driving slow in summer, from doing heaps of laps from the tank to the engine bay and back
  24. I had the same problem with widened steel wheels and hubcaps, I ended up drilling a small hole in the side of the cap and made a wire hook that went in the hole to pull the cap off
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