• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Roman last won the day on March 14 2018

Roman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10,713 Excellent

About Roman

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • Local Area

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Holy shit I cant believe you snuck that under the bonnet line. Looks awesome man! Good milestone.
  2. Ok been feeling a bit better, feels like making some meaningful progress again. I've been working on the fuse box situation. Working towards the milestone of getting power to ECU and sensors etc - Think that'll help push along towards first engine start. cool. Been looking at a bunch of different places to mount the fusebox, but I reckon in the center console with a cover over it is going to be best option that's easiest to access. So printed a little holder thingy (will have a cover hiding the bolts and edges etc) Then I've been working out on an Excel spreadsheet where all of the ins and outs of the fusebox will need to go. I've decided I'll run an SSR for the fuel pump and engine fan, so these will need to be seperate. As you cant get SSRs in the form factor of those micro relays. But it looks like I'll need at least 3 12 pin plugs for in/out, so will go for four to leave some space for future stuff / important things I've forgotten about. So for sake of tidiness and making it easy to wire up on the bench / unplug in the car. I am printing a 4 way backshell type thing for Deutsch DT 12 way plugs, that will bolt to back of the fuse box. As per usual with 3d printing it took a few iterations to get the clearances nice. But consistent once you get it right so worth the effort. Fingers crossed works out okay and wiring it up is straight forward. Documentation definitely helps, even just looking at Excel sheet you can see how to group things better so the wiring will be tidier.
  3. Roman

    KwS's TVR

    So, ages ago, I used to buy really shitty cheap cars for daily drivers. I would think "Well, I've got the skills to fix this 300,000km old shitter. So if something goes wrong I wont need to pay a mechanic!" Having this attitude skews the risk/reward equation (as I would later learn, unfavorably towards myself) when factoring in if a particular car is a good idea to buy or not. A major "aha" moment in my life, was where I realized that having additional skills can empower you but also lead you into unique sorts of traps too. I've missed so many weekends of my life where I could have been doing fun stuff, because knowing how to work on cars, meant I navigated my life into the situation where that's what I needed to do a lot. Like, isnt that strange? Instead of skills giving me extra options, they took away the option of doing anything else. Now, pausing to consider this idea for a moment. The skills trap is what is so fascinating about this project. In order to even consider taking this on, you obviously need to be incredibly talented beyond the level of most across a broad range of topics. But that's not enough, you also need to be confident and willing enough to be able to fix the potential issues, even ones you currently have no experience with. Yet, paradoxically, someone like this also has all of the requisite skills for assessing whether this is a good idea or not. Which, I would wager, most people, regardless of skill level, no offence, would say sight unseen purchasing an old TVR is "not". Not even the TVR Barrys sat on the required part of the skills matrix to get this car going. I applaud your efforts. WOF is an amazing milestone. If not for your efforts I doubt this car would have ever seen the road again.
  4. Love this project. What brand of ABS are you using? Looks like nice results!
  5. Thanks. Yeah I have been thinking about that. just need to finalize where its going to go and what its going to sit on. My understanding is you need two m8 rods holding it down with a bracket on top. But is it okay for one side of the top bracket to bolt to the side of engine bay? Or do you need the two rods holding it down vertically? Might need to make a new battery tray out of steel as well so its secure and has something decent to bolt to.
  6. Aahhhhhhhhh eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa the sounds of stress of feeling like making no progress / too many things going on at once and being overwhelmed. I'm trying to put some effort into making the engine bay and wiring look tidy this time around. Its an extra layer of effort that makes things feel a lot harder. Like, there are 20 ways to do something functionally that works. Previously I'd take the path of most convenience and call it a day. But then trying to make it look good - It feels like you need to explore 10 of the options that look like shit to find 1 option that looks okay. Then you find an option that looks good but then it's impractical for working on, and you know you're gonna hate it later. Gotta find that balance. Anyway, after much deliberation I settled on a brand of lithium battery to get. Bought an EarthX unit for a few different reasons. It has a 2 year warranty where as others were only 6 months. Gives me a bit more confidence that they themselves are confident in the product. It also has a built in battery management thingy which will protect it from over/under voltage, short circuiting and a few other safety things. Since it's going back in the engine bay and I'm trying to make things look nice I've been scheming a battery box for it. So it's got a battery switch, a 100 amp fuse to run the alternator and general power circuit. Then was thinking about having a few fuses and relays in there for high current items that are close to the front of the car, like the radiator fan. But not sure on that one yet. Including battery, should be somewhere around 3kg when finished. Thinking a thin PETG printed box, so its non conductive. With an outer layer of CF for strength/heat protection/peace of mind. To go with this, trying to push all of my relays and fans to a single center mounted box. So bought one of the big sized bussmann boxes like so. Hoping to have it somewhere easy to access in the cabin, without looking obnoxious. Center console area is seeming like best choice at the minute. But it will be nice to tidy up random half empty fuse boxes and relays around the place. I bought a few kilometers of TXL wire in different gauges and colours so I've been making a new engine and body loom from scratch. It's a bit of work, but considerably easier than last time. Having all of the right tools and crimp terminals etc makes life a whole lot easier. I have learned heaps from my first time making a loom from scratch, some things I'd do differently next time for sure. I'd imagine it's considerably easier making an engine for a person that isnt obsessed with having sensors on every friggen thing. But it's been fun. Hopefully it all works without any major issues. The only problem I've had is with the Bosch e-throttle, the pins are so small and you only get 6 terminals to crimp, no spares... I overcrimped some so it pinched the wire off. So think I'll buy one with a pigtail loom and splice it on, as I'm not confident I'll be able to get 6 out of 6 on next try either if I just buy another unterminated plug. The fuel lines are easy to tidy up. As it's easy to reroute them to hide under other stuff. I wasnt happy with how heavy and yuck looking the existing fuel filter bracket is/was, which is a 2 piece metal crapola from an SW20 like so: Look at all of those wasteful 10s of grams of ugly metal bracket! Disgusting. So some internet research came up with this fella, which has a light bracket spot welded directly to the filter. God damn look at that minimalist efficiency. Scales say previously 497 grams vs 255 grams. That means another 1/4 kg of pies that I can eat. Excellent. I also impulse purchased a plenum and shaved down engine cover, because, reasons. The plenum is likely not much use on an NA setup but it was going for a steal and looked awesome. Made by Mike at MSPEC who is a maximum GC does some amazing work. To be honest I dont think I'll use any of it, apart from testing to see how it goes. But genuinely decently made parts for a beams engine are hard to come by, outside of exhaust manifolds and ITB adapters. So, hoarder reasons basically. Might sell it on after I've had a play around with it. No doubt there will be someone with a turbo setup who could give it a good home at some point. Also got Bosch e-throttle which is a nice unit. and Spartan 3 wideband with the LSU-ADV sensor. Looking forward to seeing how much difference the fast response sensor makes. Hopefully doesnt blow up either like 4.8s do. I think that sums up my "cant draw graphs with car because it doesnt go" existential crisis for now. Thanks for reading
  7. Roman

    Switched power

    From Link help file copy/paste: "A large number of technical inquiries are received regarding problems due to incorrect wiring of auxiliary outputs. Incorrect wiring of solenoids and relays to auxiliary outputs can result in the following symptoms: · ECU not powering down when the key is turned off. · Accessories such as engine fans coming on when the key is turned off. · Repeated clicking of relays when the key is turned off (machine gun sound!). · ECU draining the battery over a few days. The root cause of these problems is the wiring of hot fed (direct from the battery positive terminal) or ACC fed (key in accessory position) solenoids or relays to ECU auxiliary outputs. Each auxiliary output basically consists of a low side driver and flywheeling diode. A low side driver is a power transistor that can switch a load to ground. Flywheeling diodes are required for the driving of fast switching devices such as ISC solenoids and VVT solenoids. Flywheeling diodes are also essential for reducing radio interference noise. Unfortunately, the placement of flywheeling diodes means that if power is applied to auxiliary outputs through a solenoid or relay when the ECU is powered down current will flow through the flywheeling diode causing the ECU to power back up. As solenoids have some resistance, the current that flows back into the ECU (back feeds) is not usually enough to power the ECU up properly resulting in the ECU powering up and down continuously. This causes unusual behavior by the offending solenoid and possibly other solenoids as its current is switched on and off."
  8. Yeah and no desulphating thingy built into the charger either.
  9. Just bumping this thread as have been on the same mission. Was looking at Shorai but mixed reviews. Seems some people have run for ages no worries. Other people blowing them up regularly. Was reccomended EarthX batteries as they have good protection onboard for shorting, low voltage, over charging, cell balancing etc. Expensive but has a 2 year warranty which put my mind at ease compared to other options which were 6 months or a year.
  10. It's amazing how much my wiring has downsized on new loom. Toyota e-throttle unit for example. Previously 12 wires, 3 plugs, and a throttle cable arrangement. Bosch unit - 6 wires, 1 plug, no cable. Huge difference to how messy that area is. Then just putting some effort into placing things so they're less of an eyesore (InB4 "Throw a blanket over the 3S")
  11. Great work mate, glad to hear you've been able to recover and get back into things. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
  12. Yeah definitely keen to look at idea of some sub-looms to make life easier. I'm splitting my headlight wiring down each side of the car so nothing runs across the front anymore. So dont have to unplug and move wiring in order to get the engine out. Just little things that slowly annoy you over years and years of pulling out same motor over and over God bless that 3S reliability
  13. Ahhh cool thanks. How many things do you twist together as one? Example, coilpack wiring would you twist the 3 wires per coilpack together? Or all 4 coilpacks worth of wires
  14. I've been working on a new loom. Bought a bunch of thin wall TXL wire from the states. Really nice to work with! Using all 20 gauge except for where heavier is needed. But now kinda wish I went to 22 for the sensor wires. As it's all still quite a big bundle. Also it's considerably easier and quicker to actually make a loom from scratch, because you can just pin and lay out bundles of wires as you go, then look what outputs you have left and then see where's a nice place to put the next one. Rather than dealing with the spaghetti of a full prewired loom. Gotta say its quite satisfying having decent crimp tools and all of the right connectors plugs etc. This time around the plan is: 4x coils 4x injectors 4x temp sensors (rad, engine, oil, air) 4x wheel speed sensors 2x vvti solenoids/cam sensors Bosch Ethrottle Cruise control Map sensor (for fuel pressure differential calcs) Maf sensor (For main load source) Knock sensor Fuel pressure sensor Rad fan Fuel pump Oil pressure sensor Purge valve Starter moror control Brake & clutch switches Then some more stuff coming over canbus such as wideband oxy sensor. Adds up to a big loom pretty quick. I've scavenged a bunch of the dead end plugs / distribution block type plugs from some factory looms to use for 5v supply / sensor ground / 12v supply. Works really nicely because I've got more than 1 plug full of sensor grounds so seems unrealistic to do an open barrel splice for that many wires. As well as being easy to add/remove things this way. I've run out of DIs but still plenty of outputs and analog inputs left. I'm building a new body loom for the car too, so will have just one central fuse box and go outwards from the center console area to everything. Just trying to decide where to have the breaks in the loom so its removable. Currently thinking fuse box and all fused items will be part of the body loom. Then wheel speed sensor wiring on seperate plugs close to the ECU, Then all the engine stuff on a single branch or maybe 2 branches into the engine bay. I've learned a bit from my previous looms but still feels a bit intimidating redoing all of the body wiring. But then in some ways its actually easier, feels like integrating into an existing loom and figuring it out is always the hardest part. Half tempted to go DR25 in the engine bay because it looks cool buuuutttttttt makes things really difficult to alter (I'm guaranteed to chop and change things later..)