Roman

More just concerned and hypervigilant at the moment, listening out for creaks bangs and so on. and trying to dial fuel in and so on. It's enjoyable to watch the video though haha. One thing I learned yesterday. If you are revving up your car in the garage. Try not to hit an ignition only rev limiter, if you want to avoid spraying fuel everywhere

I bought a 3" Adrenaline R muffler, and I've been hoping that just 1x muffler will be sufficient. So welded a flange on and bolted it up to the end of the 2-1 section to test it out before committing. I'd say its probably still a weeee bit too loud (Still need earmuffs on when it revs out) So I'll have to try stuff something else in there too. This one was filmed with the camera bit further back, and the audio recording level turned down so it wasnt clipping. In person it's still ear splittingly loud. Currently the ignition timing is all very conservative, as I'm not sure what the motor is going to like with port injection and the 12:1 compression. Overly delayed ignition timing means more exhaust energy (noise) comes out the back. So it will quiet down a bit as the timing gets dialled in. Currently there's no VVT advance happening, everything is just at home positions. So from experience the intake starts getting a LOT LOT louder when you start introducing some overlap. As much as I do love some incredibly obnoxious intake noise. If it's so loud that it's melting my brain. Will need to make an airbox to calm it down a bit. Ha. I am still chasing an issue (by which I mean I havent investigated it yet) where the reported voltage to the ECU drops off, when the rpm goes up. I am suspecting this relates to a bottleneck at my fuse/relay box. So will do some troubleshooting. I have officially run it to the 9k mark now, and valvetrain has survived. Haha. So hopefully a bit more left in it yet. It feels tantalizingly close to being drivable! I need to make some heat shields in quite a few places. As there is a huge % of the engine bay that is line of sight to the radiant heat emitting from the exhaust manifolds. This video is probably a fairly good representation of how the car will sound when it's finished and driving.

That Morrinsville event was great, cheers for the heads up about it. I was amazed at how many of each type of car were there, I wouldnt have thought there were that many left in total. Yet heaps very nicely presented, so probably at least 10x more still lurking in garages etc. Love that you're putting some mileage on the car and out enjoying it!

I am more than happy for people to pay me to build 1NZ motors haha. Next project is repowering my partner's mini. They actually do make some kits to bolt a 1NZ and C56 box in. Might be a nice option but see how I go. Engine bay is insanely tiny.

Well, someone else is carrying on and waving the 1NZ flag which is great. Marino from Whangarei took his vitz to the Garage1NZ workshop for some dyno tuning today. It's an iterative improvement on some things that I did. So its an earlier 1NZFXE, with the mechanical waterpump. The innermotive 264 deg cams and valve springs from Thailand. (about half the price of JUN/BC stuff) 20v throttles, 4-1 manifold and a 3" exhaust I think. Sneak peak at @kpr's new youtube channel logo: Made a delicious ~160whp at 8500rpm And deserves honorary oldschool.co.nz membership for adding some 13" wheels and slam. Good shit Marino! Love it.

Having just finished making a 2-1 merge thing myself, I applaud you on managing to do it without any flexis. I put three in, for "cant be fucked" reasons when it didnt fit nice.

The new motor is back in the hole, and so far so good. Last time I got as far as running the car through the gears up on stands to make sure everything was working. So this time more of the same, but since the motor hasnt crapped itself. I've been dialling in some of the low load areas just by running the car up in 5th gear. With a blip to 8900rpm for good measure. EDIT: not 89,000rpm, haha. Yes, I need to tidy my garage up. But was full of fizz to just get this running haha. Anyway, some observations so far. 1. When the fuel is a bit more dialled in, the throttle response is SNAPPY! As in, mega snappy. It's gonna be awesome I reckon. Feels a lot more snappy than 1NZ did. Hopefully it's not too touchy on first blip of the gas. 2. I got the hot idle sorted and stable, idling at a nice 750rpm no problem. Then have run it through a few iterations of trimming the warmup enrichment. Now it starts nicely off the key, with no foot on the gas even when cold. Excellent. 3. I've been having a weird issue where after cranking, one of the widebands stops responding on canbus. But if I unplug/replug in then it works again. I've got a spare relay in my fusebox, so I'll hook them up to that. So I can just have them come on shortly after the engine starts. Which is probably the better way to do things anyway. 4. Currently at idle there is around a 10% imbalance bank to bank, in wideband readings. Which is interesting given that there are the air tubes linking two banks together. However it might need a little more fiddling with the throttle stops and so on to get it to match. Otherwise perhaps I've got a small air leak somewhere, ahead of the wideband on one bank. Or maybe a poorly performing injector. Will narrow it down and figure it out. It will be interesting to see if the problem goes away once the throttle % goes up. As that indicates a different sort of issue either way. I can make a compensation table in the ECU to get the air fuel ratios fixed up anyway, if long term they are slightly problematic at full throttle conditions. 5. The way my fuel rails are, the injectors can rotate underneath them 90 degrees either way from their normal position. So, when the injectors are in their normal orientation. The widebands will show something like 14.6:1 air fuel ratio. If I rotate the injectors 90 degrees, it now shows around 16.4:1 on the wideband. Then this is very repeatable. Interesting! The injectors must have a dual spray pattern left and right, which changes to top/bottom when you turn the injector. It's crazy to see that it affects combustion quality and the reported air fuel ratio so much. That's all for now, I need to finish mounting the battery properly and finish the exhaust. Then it's about ready for a bash around the paddock or maybe a trip to the dyno. Cant wait to hear it under some load at full chat! It feels like I'm getting to the fun part of the project, and where it's fun testing and setting things up. Exciting.

Looks like good progress! Gonna be awesome to hear it fire up.

I think they just run on a zillion volts and are peak and hold. Every aftermarket ECU that can control DI decently, needs to interface with the OEM injector power module thing, or use a 3rd party one. This motor from factory has a little computer thing that bolts to the front of the engine. It accepts normal-ish injector inputs into that, and I think fuel pressure and some other stuff. Then magics the output of the injector to give the desired amount of fuel I think. Unless you want to run stratified charge mode, I dont think the benefits are hugely pronounced over port injection for this kind of thing. But, yeah. Either way, the DI pump gets cut off so the engine can fit, and the big cams wont work with it anyway. Making some press fit dowels or something is still the best solution, as it leaves more room in the Vee for my clusterfuck of wiring haha.

Yes that can happen but I'm skeptical that temperature is the actual issue. I think there are two possibilities. Temperature related, it all overheats. But it's all stainless? The injector is completely enclosed in the aluminium head which is a great heat sink. Aluminium will start melting before stainless does. There is a teflon ring on the injector but it's well into the head and isnt exposed to combustion temps or close to it. Or: The lack of fuel pressure is the problem The fuel pressure stops the combustion pressure from pushing the injector pintle open. Apparently direct injection runs somewhere between 100-300 bar, which is why it needs the mechanical pump. Then peak combustion pressure is somewhere around 35-70 bar. So when you have the fuel pressure, you have 230 bar pressure differential, working in the direction of holding the injector closed. Without the fuel pressure, you have 70 bar (~1000psi) working in the opposite direction. Trying to push the injector open and nothing to stop it except for the small spring inside the injector that pushes the pintle to the home position. The only instance that I've heard of the injectors blowing their guts out, was with a BMW/Supra engine where they were aiming for ~1000hp and were stuffing a zillion pounds of boost in it. So my thoughts are that if I just mechanically lock the injector in its closed position & give the pintle return spring an infinite rate (fill injector with high temp epoxy) then it's going to be fine with an NA motor where combustion pressure isnt going to be mega. I filled the injectors yesterday. Had to pull the filter baskets out, fill with a small syringe, and use the heat gun on the injector body to thin the epoxy to help get the air bubbles out. Now this might not work and it may indeed be that high temps make the injectors blow their guts out. But will see how it goes.

Wow, that would be awesome! Didnt realize you were stuck with an rpm limit like that. Extra rpm helps heaps at the drags, will be well into the 13s if you can stretch it to 7500 or so.

The driver's side bank is still okay. But the passenger side took a hammering for a variety of reasons. I dont think I will reuse them though, but they will still earn their keep in other ways. Being able to mock things up with a motor outside of the engine bay can be very handy! I really need to figure out some sort of airbox, so I'm considering just enclosing the entire lot of stuff in the top in the box. From the heads up.

I got a new motor! A real nice one this time, 90,000km on it. This is from a Gen 2 Mark X, which supposedly had some improvements to the PCV system and piston rings. Soit ends up with less shit all over everything in the intake. The state of the valves/ports was MUCH better than the earlier engine from last time. Hard to even know what's there, with all the shit on top as it comes from factory: It's been time consuming to get it ready to go, because it needs to be stripped down to a bare block. I've done a few things a little differently this time but the to-do list: -Swap to front sump setup -Remove heads, fit Kelford valve springs and retainers -No porting the heads this time (Will be interesting to get a base line with standard vs ported later on) -No plugging the DI holes time (Will leave factory injectors held in place, filled with resin so they cant blow open) -Swapped intake/exhaust -welding the rocker pins -Fitting BMW hydraulic lifters with Barra rocker clips -Adding the VVT cover plates, and loctiting all of the VVT pulley bolts. I've finished one side, and the head is bolted back on. Just need to finish the fiddly job of refitting the valve springs, then the other head can go back on. Exciting!

Interesting that they use a scavenge only setup! I remember when TRS first started, in 2004-2005ish and some of the cars started blowing up the oil pumps. (It was a brand new / unknown issue at the time) Because I had my motor in at the same workshop that built / rebuilt them all. I suddenly got pushed way to the back of the queue as they had a stack of motors to diagnose and fix. I never understood how that could have been blowing up the factory pump, if they had a dry sump - but that all makes sense now.

Dry sump can introduce as many problems as it fixes. Blame user or installer error if you like, but i think ive seen as many trackdays come to an early end from oil leaks, oil flying out, oil spills, belts flying off, etc from dry sump issues as much as anything else. Also max irony points when someone loses oil pressure because of a sandwich plate coming loose that was only there for sake of monitoring oil pressure.