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Roman last won the day on August 30

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  1. Hi, I've got a job where I need a loooonnngggg set of gear pullers to get a pressed on gear, off. These pictures show the predicament. Anyone have something like this and could do a job for me? Just removing the gear, can do the rear box disassembly and reassembly myself easy enough. Thanks
  2. Yeah you cant just switch between one and the other, or you get a big lean spot. Every time it switches from inner to outer, the car will bog and turns to shit. It's very unsettling. Even if you blend it across it still makes engine response suck. You need to keep running the inners for a few extra cycles, or run outers richer for a few engine cycles at the start for wall wetting to stabilize. I think it's a situation similar to ITB installations - the better your injectors are at atomizing the fuel, the more it's fine to keep them right at the ports. If your injectors suck, then you'll see bigger advantage of having them further from the head. Even if you get it all working right, atmospheric conditions change or your manifold temp changes and then it turns to shit again! When I went back to just fully port injection the engine was a zillion times punchier. Like night and day difference. Maybe with more setup and a bit more experience with tuning these days I could get it working better. Might try it again one day.
  3. Thats a good explanation, cheers!
  4. Just watched your Taupo video, looks a lot more at home! What sort of times has it done in clear traffic? Looks pretty rapid
  5. @Drummer888 Not sure if there's a comments thread for this already? Love this car, so cool! I saw a few different videos of that event, looked like heaps of fun. Your car definitely looks out of its powerband on the tight stuff though haha. Which ECU do you have specifically? I reckon some speed based boost control would help tame the beast and make it a lot easier off the start line
  6. Gen 3 3SGE does that. Has a VSV that can shut off the plenum via throttle plate type things
  7. Not picking on Honda people specifically, I remember a really funny case with someone with an MR2. They dynoed their car, made some changes, came back. The at the wheels horsepower number had gone up, but their "at the engine" calculation had gone down for fuck knows what reason. So they were disappointed about it...
  8. It is interesting that in the Honda world, plenums seem to be par for the course and hardly anyone has ITB? They all seem to have quite a tiny plenum volume, and do see benefits from changing length of the intake pipe on the front. I wonder if this all exists below that theoretical line of where the engines would make power if they had open ITB with fresh air instead. Or whether small plenum is key to making use of that front pipe. I've definitely seen changes from it. It's bloody hard to actually figure out how much power some people make when they all post power at the engine, from an at the wheels Dyno. Which Americans seem to love doing. Like this dudes saying 242hp which sounds impressive... But then its 180 at the wheels... not so much. Then fuck me dead they're changing the drivetrain losses numbers with each run Bloody Americans @Hyperblade will show us some proper Honda science soon enough
  9. I know this is off topic from this thread, but. I know you tested the small and larger extractor pipe diameters, but have you had a play around with different lengths at all? Or any previous experience with different off the shelf parts or whatever?
  10. Some minor progress on making things a bit lighter and a bit fancier. Made a new shifter with a 3d printed dissolvable inner and some carbon sleeve. Turns out nice this way because there are no seam lines like you get with flat sheets. I was grizzling about how that bottom bracket seems heavier than it needs to be too, but then I remembered I've got the SQ Engineering relocation kit thing so that gets replaced too. And then to the most important part of anything I'm involved with, max effort for negligable differences and pointless graphs: I couldnt find the old gearknob but I think I remember Nic saying it was about 60 grams. and missing one of the bolts which are 20 grams so around 1400 all up. "That's fine dave, thanks, I can see difference from the pics" No, no, I insist Also bought a brand new OEM Silvia 6th gear kit finally. Looking forward to those sweet sweet sub 3000rpm cruising speeds... What fuel economy dreams are made of. Still no progress on getting a new shed built before I can do any major stuff needed, so probably a few other random additions like this in the meantime.
  11. Happy with the end result! I got lazy with the interface from the carbon to the steel shifter part at the bottom, and just 3d printed a sleeve. Which is a tight fit into the carbon then epoxied onto the steel shifter. But it was only 8 grams, maybe 10 with epoxy so I'm okay with that haha. Adding the lip on the bottom made for a nice finishing detail.
  12. Its working decently now. My first bit I tried wasnt dissolving but I found the problem was that when I vac bagged the part it sucked all of the epoxy to cover all of the exposed surfaces of the HIPS as well. Woops. The good news is that once it reaches the infill section of the print it just eats it up super quick because the ratio of surface area is massive The outer layers turn to a mushy goo though that takes longer but sloshing it around to clear it off seems to work. I think I'll next try just a single outer layer or maybe just two. It doesnt really need any strength for covering with sleeve as its not being vac bagged or anything. I think vac bagging probably wouldnt work well for this process anyway as it would try suck epoxy into the infill areas. Or the vacuum would crush the infill and you'd need thicker walls that would be uneconomical to try dissolve. In any case - it's a good trickto have available for when the conditions allow it.
  13. I finally managed to get the HIPS material working on the 3d printer (it's dissolvable in a particular chemical) One of my long term dreams for ages has been to have a good dissolvable core so I can lay up CF on it nicely and end up with a good light weight complex shape. However I've never had access to the chemical either so I wasnt sure if it was feasible to get or if it would damage the epoxy or carbon. Turns out you can buy D-Lemonine from the chemical supplier in Hamilton and it wasnt too expensive. So bought 2 litres to test - it also turns out that epoxy and CF are completely impervious to it. Awesome! For printing a part I decided to start with something easy as I'm always over reaching a bit trying something complicated then falling short. So after a few test prints to get the proportions feel right I managed to get a decent-ish gear stick shape. The idea is to use sleeve over it, and then the messy bit at the end will tuck under that little cap which screws in place but then dissolves later. So then I could put a little shifter icon thing or a logo or something set down into it, then fill it with clear epoxy to give some depth to it. Loose layup with the sleeve to see if cap fits ok: The sleeve couldnt quite go small enough to the diameter I wanted at the bottom so I had to widen it a bit. Yeah I'm wearing a dressing gown, what of it? Revised the print and just wet layup and turned out pretty sweet. It's had enough time for the epoxy to cure so now it's sitting in the bath of D-lemonine slowly turning its innards into goop. I waxed the HIPS to try block its porosity so the epoxy doenst leech into it and stop the chemical process from happening. Think I've probably got another 12-24 hours before it'll all be dissolved but looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
  14. Wellll shit thas a friggen cool idea!