Roman

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Roman last won the day on March 14

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About Roman

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  1. Duds' 2002 bee em double ewe

    Keep at it man! Have always wanted a 2002 so I'm living vicariously through your progress.
  2. Sheepers latest Ms75

    Actually here's a fun fact about the nomenclanture of the M series engines, and why the numbers arent sequential as you'd expect. While still in prototype phase as a planned obsolescence engine, Toyota Engineers described each iteration based on how many critical flaws in engine design there are. 4Mistakes 5Mistakes 6Mistakes 7Mistakes They later dropped the idea and went back to making reliable engines.
  3. Sheepers latest Ms75

    fixed
  4. I've made a great start on lightening my vehicle: Didnt need any of that stuff apparently So swapping a new box in, and I find that once more the Exedy HD clutch that I've got had started to rattle the springs loose already. Which doesnt actually cause any problems apart from interfering with the knock sensor sometimes which annoys the piss out of me. So I am fitting up an OEM clutch plate and cover plate. The OEM clutch plate has rubber bits in it, instead of springs. So they never rattle and cause knock sounds. Also my fuel computer project has slowly scope creeped into a digi dash. woops Shitloads of work left to do though. Hah. Will fiddle with the screen layout / arrangement a bit more and I think I'll have a row of LEDs right across the top for a shift light, instead of a big single light. I dont know. It's actually hard to fill the screen real estate when you dont need to have everything displayed at once. Want to make it look like it belongs. Not easy. Am also still playing around with some carbon fiber stuff but havent produced anything useful as of yet. But results so far are promising. I've got a few vaccum pumps to play with thanks to Tumeke, and I've bought a bunch of vaccum bagging materials so I'll give a few different methods a go and see what works or not. I thought making a wing mirror would be interesting but the geometry is so bloody complex. Will park that one until when/if I know what I'm doing So starting on something a bit more simple, will try make a new MAF housing / pipe out of CF. Have printed half of the mould for the bellmouth part but it will need to be made from at least 4 moulds assuming this will work at all... Using the method of 3d printing with thick outer layers, fairly open infill and then filling with plaster for weight/rigidity. Then coating the moulds with wax and just doing a wet layup. For this shape I really need to plan my cuts so I'll do a few trials with some bits of paper I think. Hopefully works well but its a learning process so not expecting stellar results straight away / wont be too dissapointed if it doesnt work out. This is the underside, from where I filled it up: Much cheaper than trying to print a more rigid mould from PLA.
  5. Romans COD piece

    Ahhh sounds interesting! Thanks will flick you a message
  6. Ash's A6 Carina Coupe (Lyfe)

    Dont worry, your secret's safe with me.
  7. Romans COD piece

    Haha yeah this article? Cracked me up, so good http://www.rcramer.com/fun/econobox/
  8. Romans COD piece

    To be honest Carbon Fibre material itself is neither here nor there, as its the expoxy and time making molds that is the true "cost" of the process. I was not expecting the dry appearance either, I think it's because I had a shitload of wax on the mold as I was expecting it all to permanently sandwich together and be a disaster. But I can assure you that each layer got an exceptionally liberal application of epoxy as I did a wet layup like you'd do with fibreglass (partially because I mixed hilariously way too much) and as best I can tell there are no issues with layer adhesion on this test piece at least. Heaps of the epoxy squished out the sides. I wasnt even clamping the mold together particularly well, I just put it under the leg of my table haha. For the next thing I'll try, I'll use massively less wax and see how it goes as I think that will affect the outer coating a fair bit. Yes, Carbon does indeed conduct electricity but so does the steel that my entire car is made from. My process will work for fibreglass as well though, so whatever's best tool for the job. I have been reading about how it can cause galvanic corrosion with aluminium though so I guess I'll need to be mindful of that.
  9. Welcome to... The Age of Enlightenment One of my favourite things about... stuff... Isnt just making something but also optimizing it however possible. Kerbal Space Program is a good example, of the benefits of optimizing things. (You build space ships) You can have a ship that works well, but then doing things like reducing the amount of fuel in each container to just how much you need for that particular stage of your rocket, reducing thruster power to the optimal speed to minimise drag, and so on. Can make a ship that looks the same massively faster and go massively further. In terms of how this relates to my car, currently its at the point where I've just slapped some shit together and seen that it works, which it does. But some things suck for a variety of reasons, or are okay but could be better. It could benefit from some time spent optimizing stuff. For example, I have these fucken massive vented rear brakes, which I then need to use a bias valve to turn them almost completely off in order to not lock up the rear. Do I really need a 5kg vented disc on each side of my live axle, and a big steel caliper that's probably about the same? Probably not. Switching to an aluminium MX5 caliper and a non vented disc, I can drop a fair chunk of unsprung weight annndddd my brake bias will actually work better. Cool. My goal is to lighten the car in a way that doesnt make it any less useful as a street car, or any less useful on the track. I want to try and get somewhere into the 6 litres per 100km mark, do a 13 second quarter and do a sub 1:20 laptime at Hampton. Making the car lighter helps work towards all of these goals. So essentially my plan is to just make a lot of tiny iterative improvements everywhere, (Which may seem like a waste of effort when viewed in isolation) that will add up to a bigger picture change. (Maybe). And learn some some new stuff to stave off insanity a little longer and keep my brain ticking over. Before I started doing anything I weighed the car with approximately a quarter of a tank of gas, full interior, all of the seats, etc. Came in at 1020kg without driver. So it will be super easy to get it under 1000 and I think closer to 950 or 900 will be achievable. So here are a few things on the to do list: -Swap in dual VVTI engine, (for better fuel economy thanks to exhaust side VVTI, and more power thanks to slightly higher CR) -Swap to the 2NZ Alternator which saves ~4kg for same amperage. -Cast some aluminium engine mounts instead of the steel ones with sloppy old rubbers. -Downsize rear brakes. -Remove blower assembly, heater core etc from under the dash as none of it works particularly well and it's quite heavy. (done) -Depending on how engine mounts go, possibly cast an aluminium gearbox xmember as well. (I will 3d print a shape for the local foundry to do these) -When I had an oil cooler, when I had the oil cooler fan going the radiator fan NEVER needed to come on. Even on a hot day. Since there's a water to oil cooler on the engine, I've removed my oil cooler and my large radiator fan. I have put the oil cooler fan on the part of the radiator with the highest temperature differential (Right by the top hose) and surprisingly enough the car doesnt overheat with this tiny fan. Even on a hot day. Which leads me to... -Remove the radiator fan entirely and use a radiator sprayer bar. Since I need a washer bottle to spritz the window for WOF, I can have a valve on it which uses the water to mist the radiator instead when needed. Currently its only in stop start traffic or moments below 35-40kph where needs the fan at all. Also, at high speeds where a fan cant actually assist to cool your car, evaporative cooling can. (Still tossing up this idea but it sounds fun to experiment with. Will leave fan in place as a backup while testing) -Remove rose jointed t3 Castor arms, and go back to standard ones with stiff poly bushings. The weight difference is ridiculous and I'm not convinced they're particularly better than standard configuration. -Remove the rear muffler and cast an aluminium rear part of the exhaust pipe that has a butterfly in it which I can control with the ECU. This has the benefit of making the car a lot quieter when cruising along, annnddd, I can introduce pressure to the exhaust system in order to increase EGR effect of VVTI at cruising conditions. Which I believe may help improve fuel economy, as counter intuitive as it may sound. -Reduce idle speed as low as possible to save fuel (Already done) With MAF based tune I can now get a stable ~670-700rpm idle, but I've used a few tricks to make it more drivable and not stall. Such as increasing goal idle speed above 5kph and when the engine is cold. -Find a way to optimize cam timing at cruising conditions for best economy. This one has been on my mind for a long time, it seems very difficult to quantify how to best set the cam angle. So I have been working on an arduino based canbus project which can communicate to the ECU and show a live fuel economy value. I can turn knobs on the box to increase or decrease a trim table that affects cam timing, fuel, ign, or injector timing, or whatever else and get within ballpark this way. For version 2.0 of this, I am planning on having a closed loop ignition timing control that turns on when cruise control is active. It will float the ignition timing a few degrees eithe way, find the most economical value and then update a trim table in the arduino. Work in progress... I'm also considering having an overlay trim table in the ECU that changes ign timing based on current AFR seen at the oxy sensor - A leaner mixture needs significantly more timing. So it can do this dynamically. -3D print all the things! Lately I have jumped on the 3D printer bandwagon, and this will be an elemental part of the process for some of the stuff above. Not only can I print PLA prototypes, or ABS/Nylon functional parts. But I can also make molds for making other parts out of fun stuff like Polyurethane or Carbon Fibre. I made a test mold to see how Carbon Fibre would work and it turned out friggen awesome: So I'm going to make some more carbon parts, it's such a fun process and seeing the results is exciting. Stuff is so strong and so light, cant wait to make some more stuff out of it. -Digi Dash Tying into some of the above (3d printing a new dash housing, and using ARduino knowledge to build the screens) I will put together a canbus based digidash that will be cool. Will try and make it look like an 80s spec digidash as much as possible, but also have some context sensitive functions in it. (So screen will show different values when cruise control is on, or if you are at a trackday, or whatever) This isnt strictly something that makes the car better, but I'm already 90% of the way there by building my fuel tuning box thingy anyway so why not. -Get rid of heavy battery and move it closer to the engine bay. It's currently in an annoying spot in the boot space, so going to a gel cell battery or similar and moving it closer will save a non insignificant amount on battery weight and thick cables that run the length of the car currently. (ha) -Rear seats? I can only name 2 or 3 occasions on which anyone has ever sat in the back seats of this car. The seats, belts, and rear parcel tray arrangement are over 40kg worth of stuff. So I'd like to ditch them completely but dont want an ugly looking bare rear half of the car. For privacy reasons I want to keep the rear parcel tray so I'll remake something from maybe carbon fibre or aluminium. If the seats go too then I'll make some sort of firewall type thing and try figure out a non ugly way to cover up where the bottom half of the seats went. -Front seats Currently each front seat is over 20kg (including rails) So will get some lighter ones, maybe with fixed rails if I ditch the rear seats. -Radiator Support crossmember Currently I am using an oversized piece of a 2nd crossmember that I chopped out of another carina, so I can unbolt this to take the engine out. Since its an easy shape I'm going to 3d print a mold to make a carbon fibre replacement for this, and the bonnet stand. -Get rid of the glass and replace with Lexan This is something I'm not interested in doing. It's good weight savings but it's a ball ache because you need an authority card or whatever, I can barely deal with trying to get WOFs on this bloody thing as it is haha. -Other stuff I'll learn new things as I go, doing the above. So I might come up with some new ideas or decide to ditch some of the above. But it feels like there are some exciting new things to learn, which I'm happy about. A lot of these things only save 1kg here or 2kg there etc... But they all add up. Since my gearbox is toastedd and trackdays are starting to become significantly less affordable or accessable. I'm happy to just have the car off the road again for a while, while I geek out a bit. The only thing I can say for sure, is that fun times are ahead and I'm excited to learn some new stuff, especially regarding Arduino programming, 3d printing and some carbon fibre stuff.
  10. ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint

    Great work on the graphs this makes me happy. Sweet economy too! Better than my Echo. Cant beat a light car. Does your FPR reference intake manifold pressure? If fpr is not not intake referenced the pressure difference between fuel rail and intake manifold increases with vaccum. So at a given pulsewidth you get more fuel than expected. Might account for your 10% perhaps. Maybe check what your fuel model in ECU thinks the fpr is doing.
  11. Romans COD piece

    Plumbed in near the end of the 2-1 section, as this is where the standard narrowband sensor was positioned. I really just think the issue here might have been that the lines were too small and the pressure scale of the sensor too high. For the moment I've retired it, but will give it a rethink later on. Having the MAF back in is proving interesting enough so far.
  12. Okay so after I finished building the MAF curve, and drove around to collect some data with it, and then I started building a fuel table using MAF as load axis. After plugging away at this for a while, I noticed something interesting - The fuel map becomes just a straight slope all the way across haha. So this is what my basemap looked like: And the car drove awesomely on it! After a few tweaks to the overall shape it's still pretty similar. Definitely a lot more linear than a MAP or TPS based tune. Which makes sense. With a MAF based tune you really do need some decel fuel cut, as when you shut the throttle the MAF value momentarily climbs and you get pops and bangs out the exhaust... Oh the humanity! In less awesome news though, this new gearbox seems stuffed. The synchros in 3rd seem non existent and I think I heard it break something when I hoofed it into 3rd today haha. So no OS drags for me in this car, and no trackdays this year either. sadface. WTB (non fucked) Altezza gearbox if anyone sees one for sale. EDIT: Also I ran over something with my AD08Rs on which put a big gash in one of my tyres as well. Blargh.
  13. Romans COD piece

    Trust me I'm surprised as well. I've confirmed that the sensor reads higher pressure fine, and when the engine is off the signal is the same as barometric pressure. I can only think that either the diameter of the line is too tiny for it to work effectively, or, there's a venturi type thing happening even at idle. But its definitely weird. Might try again with a bigger diameter line for starters.
  14. Romans COD piece

    The cam timing advances through the midrange, and pulls back towards top rpm. There isnt really a pressure trend that follows this, or at least it's not evident from the resolution available with this sensor. With a 1 bar absolute map sensor or using a differential pressure sensor this might be more evident though.
  15. Phew, finally finished a big wiring tidy up and car back together. So now my car can go back to doing what a car is supposed to do... MAKE SOME GRAPHS! Firstly, I wired up a MAF sensor, but having no calibration for it means I need to compare to existing logs to work it out. So for starters I was just logging raw MAF voltage output, 0-5v to ECU. My ECU currently has one of the values it logs as part of its calculation is "Grams of air per cylinder Estimated" So we need to turn this into a grams per second, so some maths to create a custom field in Megalog viewer and now I've got Grams per second which I can compare to voltage: Which I can then use as an axis on a scatter plot, which shows me a very rough outline of a MAF curve starting to form... So I rough out a voltage vs grams per second to put in the calibration in Link And then go for another drive and do same thing again in megalog viewer... Starting to look better! A few more iterations of refinements should clean up the "messy" signal at the low end. If not, I will just switch to map or alpha N based tune around the areas where it sucks. But from here, once the MAF sensor data is accurate I'll build secondary ignition and fuel tables which have MAF as the load axis. Then I can start experimenting with cam timing at part throttle some more, without my load axis going bananas (map sensor value changing a lot) Then from here, hopefully further improved fuel economy because that's fucken awesome. Alsooooooooooooooooooo I wired in an exhaust pressure sensor, and wtf'd at the results hahaha. When there's more air flowing through the pipe, the pressure goes down: I think it's creating a venturi at the entrance of the pipe, so if anything this reading is more an indication of airspeed than pressure I guess! This new gearbox has been a little hard to get into gear / has kinda jammed once or twice so I'm hoping its not a lemon. But my car is still making the same sort of rattling noises as before so its possible that my other gearbox is still good which is cool. But the test will be whether this one pukes all its oil onto the floor and onto my exhaust every time I drive it haha. Fingers crossed it's good otherwise I'm out of contention for OS drags / might have to bring the yellow Carina instead