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Roman last won the day on March 14 2018

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About Roman

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  1. Second that. Your work on this car is bloody amazing.
  2. If mine is back together by then, which I bloody hope so. Count me in!
  3. Ive just been revisiting the hardlines for my fuel and return lines. Easily one of the most wankerish jobs to have to sort out. Can you cert having AN hoses just run full length from motor to tank? Or do you need a hard line?
  4. If you have an Exhaust Gas Temperature probe it can be normal to see 800-900-1000 degrees on the way out of the combustion chamber. I dont think heating idle air to even 100deg pre combustion is going to make any real difference to engine temp. What could be interesting though is if the alloy manifold to the supercharger is acting as a heat sink. Thats saturating the heads with heat, so your ECT reading is possibly higher than what the engine ever sees down in the block first. But he has said hes tried it with the pulley disconnected so I think its fairly safe to rule out anything to do with the charger itself. I reckon +1 to try the standard manifold back on. At the least it will be a good isolation test which rules out a bunch of things. Is it possible that the welding of the sensor holes on the water bridge left some goop as a blockage inside? If it were me the first thing id sanity check the ect sensor itself. Assuming hasnt been done. If the ect sensor has been moved too this triggers my spidey senses. Ive seen a mates trackday get cut short because his oil temps were going through the roof every time he floored it. Turns out his tuner hadnt calibrated the sensor so a small temp gain was a huge temp spike according to ecu. Dave is there any chance of recording a log file and posting it up / email or similar?
  5. Interesting, got an estimate on runner to wall clearance on previous one?
  6. @kpr It's amazing to see how much can be gained with some NA style tuning adjustments. Wonder if that dual entry design caused heaps of turbulence perhaps. Or maybe tipped trumpets are just that little bit better maybe. Or a little bit of both. Looking forward to seeing what happens at 13psi!
  7. Just to post another graph, because, well, that's what I do. This is a plot of my engine, RPM vs MAP and then the colour scale is MAF airflow. So the blue line is basically zero airflow point mentioned above. Definitely not blanketly happening at the same KPA value throughout rev range. It's interesting to see how it looks like some approximation of the inverse of the torque curve. I guess that makes sense - at the RPM where the engine is trying harder to gulp in more air, it's going to generate a stronger vacuum. I know I keep banging on about it, but it's amazing how much more resolution and ease of tuning you can get with a MAF in some areas. With a MAF as your load axis, when you are tuning that blue line its just a flat straight line across the bottom row of your table. Elegance through simplicity.
  8. What ECU are you using? You might have an option for fuel cut decel you can turn on, shuts off injectors completely.
  9. There arent any M series engines nearby that transmitted their sickness to your 1UZ? Well good news is, at least you found the issue! Good luck with getting it fixed up.
  10. Technically everyone does! Then widebands assume Lambda 1 is 14.7:1 and then scales it from there. But then the funny thing is that if your stoich value was actually say... 13:1 for a different fuel, it will still read as 14.7:1 and you'll still effectively be tuning it to Lambda 0.9 or Lambda 1.1 or whatever and it will still be fine haha. Which is why everyone insists that using Lambda as the scale makes a lot more sense. Good habit to get into. Yeah that's not hugely lean, but keep in mind that as you go leaner you can end up needing a fair bit more ignition timing as the burn rate slows down by heaps. Like at cruising conditions you could probably quite happily add another 5 or more degrees over what's good at Lambda 1. Supposedly with petrol 15.2:1 ( Lambda 1.034) is the best point to aim for lean burn power/efficiency. But obviously engine to engine that's gonna change.
  11. Hey Neville, thats cool got any pics? What do you need? We found the best way to get parts was from australia. For some reason there seems to be way more z10s over there.
  12. Roman

    Fusible links

    My understanding is that circuit breakers trip a lot quicker and easier than fuses blow. So when you get a high instant peak load of current like when a fan turns on. It might trip a breaker but wont blow a fuse. Had some people using high amp circuit breakers tell me that theyre a bit of a pain. So stuck with fuses again as never had any trouble with last setup.
  13. Roman

    Fusible links

    Yeah I have done that, 100 amp everything except starter. I have used both oem setup and also this. The holder for these is a bit annoying though as you need to trim them even to fit the 16-6 sized lug.
  14. What I would reccomend, is dont buy any injectors that dont come with a datasheet. Make sure you get CC rating (at a specified pressure) and deadtime/voltage chart. Personally if I was doing anything turbocharged I'd just go straight for an ID1000. They can idle great even at very low pulsedwidths, partially because they come with a great datasheet. Not too spendy especially if you consider how much fuel / tuning time you waste with slightly cheaper but garbage injectors. According to this, fits Evo 3. Usually there are just two different dimensions of top O-ring, think it's 12mm and 14mm but same size injector can use either without issues. Then at the bottom if it uses regular injector seal things, just reuse those instead of a lower O-ring. Essentially the purpose of the lower seal is to just stop a vacuum/boost leak around the injector. Some factory big-ish injectors are pretty garbage, RX7 ones are notorious for having massively differing flow rates between same injectors. So buyer beware especially second hand stuff. EDIT: I thought EV1 specified the plug type, but it looks like it is about the internal construction of the injector.
  15. This looks like neatest solution for fitting the fuel pressure sensor without an external FPR. Could have it just off the outlet of the fuel filter.