Roman

Even simpler, is just to wrap a cable tie around it. (Which is what I did) haha The china print nylon trumpets that I did for a fella in Ireland recently, turned out really amazing, and were a real nice press fit / interference fit. I doubt they would ever fall off. but I told the guy to put a tie around them or something anyway.

I reckon drill through the part behind that bridge in your picture, and just put a bolt through.

Back when kanye west and jzx100 werent oldschool

Draw us a graph please MOF

I dont think its the ethrottle motors, so much as that 6x throttle across 2 banks is just a shit idea. Then most people who've done the same are probably ignorant of the problems or just think "because race car" and dont try improve it. I still might change to a dual or single throttle setup yet. I went for a drive with max advance intake cam, max retard exhaust cam. Fuel economy about the same. So that makes me think I might need to have a better check for leaks in the exhaust pre oxy sensors, and/or, maybe it's more down to ignition timing etc at this point. I dont have the knock sensors fitted at the moment, so I might hook these up and try see how much ignition timing it needs/wants at low load and if it's knock limited at all. Running hardly any timing at low load at the moment.

I added an extra page to my link ECU datalog viewer program so that it can align a video to a log file, and then write some overlays on it. Or you can just view it in real time, its cool for something like seeing where an oil pressure dip happens exactly. Or check if your driving is derpy. I didnt actually go to the track though, because that would be dumb. I've been trundling the car up the road and back a bit, trying to get its road manners a bit nicer. Has a bit of a stumble and hesitation on first throttle so I'm looking at ways to try improve the situation. One thing that I've found is that sometimes when throttle is closed its trying to apply a negative duty to hold it shut. So then when you first come on the gas, it has to go through a fair bit of PID movement to get to a positive duty to open the throttle. So I've increased the minimum close amount by a little bit, and it's a lot better on first touch of the gas. I think I still have some degree of problem with the throttles opening slightly unevenly relative to each other, and I dont think I'll ever fully get on top of that. So I am going to try use some cam timing tricks to dethrottle the engine a bit so it likes to stay at higher throttle openings with less power. But hopefully some good economy at the same time. On a baseline drive up and down the road, fuel economy is quite horrible, sitting around 13something liters per 100km. My canbus based dual wideband trimming works pretty good though, it doesnt oscillate/overshoot/etc like the factory implementation does. (cyl 1 trim trims bank 1, and same for 2&2) One thing is I struggle to mentally envision what is happening with the cam duration and overlap and so on. Then how this changes as the car travels. So I figure it might be handy to add valve timing graph into my log viewer program so I can view some stuff about what the engine is actually doing and see it change in real time. I've got the cam lift/duration mapped out and the cam centerlines positioned correctly to account for my non standard timing. I can hit the play button and it will run through the log and show how the cams over around, ignition timing moves, injector timing and duty changes, etc. One thing I noticed straight away is that my injector timing was sitting smack in the middle of the overlap period when I had 360 deg end of ignition timing. So if I move around the cams to worst case scenario for biggest overlap, and then use the slider to move the injector timing to where it never occurs during overlap. then about 400-425 degrees is always out of that zone. At low injector pulsewidths and low rpm I might be able to fit the injection window on the other side of overlap so I'm not losing any fuel straight out the exhaust. One thing of note. Is that cam charts always show the horizontal scale as being degrees of crank rotation. But it looks really different if you change the scale to mm of piston travel. Because the piston dwells and TDC and BDC then accelerates through the middle. So the same graph as above but the scale changed, looks way different. It makes the overlap period and time spent past TDC/BDC look a lot less drastic. As there isnt necessarily any airflow movement at those points, apart from effects of harmonics and inertia and so on. I am expecting to see some trends where if you view the amount of overlap or atkinson in milliseconds rather than degrees. it might end up being a nearly static value. So then it could map out what cam timing you'd need (in degrees) to reach that target. Now all of this is interesting (grading on a Dave scale) but how does it help improve fuel economy? Dunno yet. I think I still need to do some real life testing at low load and see what works best. But I do like the idea of moving the injection window to the other side of overlap at low load. Will be interesting to see if it helps at all.

4. Fucking cool flyby vids

Whoa, custom metal bellhousing is cool as. Good progress. How is the other car going? Coming to OS drags to school some nerds in their Nissane Notes? (Highly personalized attack towards @xsspeed )

There are a few really cool beams projects floating around, my favourites are the AE86 of @Truenotch: And @Hyperblade's starlet before he Honderized it (Still cool haha)

My theory on the beams exhaust noise is this: 1. The factory exhaust manifold with the very short primaries and long secondaries, makes for a pooey sound. A good long pipe 4-1 or 4-2-1 goes a long way. 2. I noticed with my car that the car sounded a lot worse, when the engine had hardly any ignition timing. The exhaust sounds rougher and louder. I suspect that with the high km cars with factory ECU, they probably have blown knock sensors and the ECU pulls all of the timing out. So they sound like dogshit. 3. There is a variable flap in the factory muffler that rattles after a while. So people swap it out, and put on something worse thanks to issues 1 and 2 above. The factory intake manifold is really good though and they can make a cool carb sort of induction noise when setup alright.

Yeah cant wait for drags / dyno. Just need to stop having life serve me up shit sandwiches each month so far since... March or so!

A few things happening. Firstly HOLY SHIT THE GEARBOX WORKS NOW Absolutely stoked that it was just issues with the clutch line! I mainly have the goal of getting to the OS drags with a good setup for once. Dyno on the back burner for now but hopefully reroll before drags. Basic plan is: -Hoosiers -Traction brackets -Better rear shocks -hopefully launch control / flat shifting (need speedo sensor working well, and position sensor on clutch) I pulled the rear shocks out and measured them, and found that the AE86 Cusco 14 way adjustables were a good length, and will fit. I bought a set, and they fit up great! At the same-ish time I also got some nangkang CRS fitted, so my 15+ year old R888 are finally in the bin. haha The car understeers quite a bit now, and its very wallowy when I have rear shocks on the softest settings. But drives a lot nicer over bumps. So I'll start creeping up the rear shock stiffness until it seems good. In some mind blowing sort of news. I've been doing a bit more work and testing on my program that puts GPS log data directly into my ECU logs. This showed something interesting. My engine rpm wasnt matching the GPS speed that it should, with the 4.3 final drive that I've had fitted for the last forever. So I check on the blocklayer website, and test a few sample points of GPS speed vs rpm in each gear to see what it should be. Far out! The numbers all match up only if I put in that the car has a 3.9, not 4.3. So that must be what it actually has. 3.9! Bloody disgusting. haha. This is going to be wildly wildly wildly more fun with a 4.7 or 5.3 final drive. good lord. Anyway, one reason this is particularly interesting, is that the virtual dyno program which I'm quite fond of. It works out the power figure based on only rpm from the logs. Then uses gear ratio, tyre size, final drive, weight etc to work out the power figure. So this has been reading incorrectly the whole time, because I've had the wrong final drive entered. With the correct final drive in, its more like this: If I look at my VE values from my old intake, and how much power it made. Then add a directly proportional torque gain for extra airflow, (probably a little bit optimistic) Then I get a very similar result which is promising. If these numbers seem like an impossible jump, keep in mind just how much extra fuel its needed now. the difference is crazy I'm now super fizzing to get back to the dyno to find out for sure. Anything over 250whp and I'd be happy. Hopefully I can get back up there soonish. Just keep having stupid things pop up.

Vizards video editor must have a tough job by the looks. Haha

It's funny that some people need to read an entire book called "How to make friends and influence people" When obviously its only a 2 step process: -Have a cool car -Do a skid

Time to upgrade to a 20v ? /I'll let myself out