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Roman last won the day on March 14 2018

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  1. I just caught up on this thread - holy shit about that crash! Glad you were okay from that. This is looking friggen awesome, A++
  2. Yeah thats the way to go for sure. I've got a vacuum chamber here but my pump is chooched as I managed to fill it up with resin and damage the vane pump. Awaiting a replacement!
  3. So I finally got around to mixing up some of the 65 Shore A polyurethane to see if it seems about right for engine mounts etc. I tipped some into the corner of the cut off bottom of a coke bottle. the results - aahhhh... It feels weird to give a review saying these mini boobs were about the right firmness but here we are. Definitely needs degassing, end up stirring a whole heap of bubbles into it that don't escape at all. This stuff is very gluggy compared to resin etc. It also took bloody ages to set. Like, more than a day. Very different to the solid stuff I used earlier which set in about 15 mins. I've been watching some stuff about bonding it to steel, sounds like you need to rough the surface with sandblasting, use a polyurethane friendly etch primer, then you'll get a really strong contact with the urethane poured against it. I guess only other thing is to make sure it's somewhat petrol/oil/temperature tolerant. I guess it would be seeing how many people use poly bushes for nearly everything. Will try find what sort of additive you can use to colour it.
  4. After having dealt with rust repairs on Toyotas that use holes to fix the badges on, and the associated water that inevitably leaks into the car and fucks up the whole boot area. My vote is for dont drill. I'd rather grind the tabs off and reglue or whatever. You probably wont need to take it back off, but you probably will have wankerish issues with water ingress.
  5. I know I've banged on about this same topic for a zillion years, but noticed something interesting with cam timing. At peak cylinder filling RPM, which in my case is approx 6500rpm. It almost doesnt matter what the cam timing is, it stuffs heaps of air into the motor in any case. Then at a lower rpm than this, advancing the cam helps increase cylinder fill, and after this retarding the cam helps increase cylinder fill. So that's nothing too out of the ordinary. But I've always also had this big hole at approx 3000rpm area. It's the same but opposite situation. This is the only other place where adjusting the cam timing makes the least amount of difference. But here you get the worst cylinder fill... And it happens at what seems like half the RPM of the area where you get peak cylinder fill with minimal cam timing effect. So out of interest, if I divide the RPM scale by 3250 its interesting to note that "1" is at roughly worst cylinder fill, and "2" is at peak cylinder fill. I wonder if this is actually beneficial from a fuel economy point of view, in that you get a natural dethrottling situation happening right at the RPM where you cruise on the motorway. Which might be why the regular dethrottling strategies have never seemed to make a difference to fuel economy on this motor. As it's already doing it.
  6. Yeah something like that, youll just need to see how far you can drop it with just timing. Might be sensitive to it or might not. Can maybe rich or lean it out to drop the idle a bit too. A lean mix needs more ign advance as it burns slower. So you might be able to exaggerate the effect by running a little lean too.
  7. No IACV sucks a bit, but you can work around it by pulling ignition timing out of your hot idle so the rpm drops. Then adjusting the throttle stop so you reach your hot idle rpm goal with more air. So now you can have the extra air you need for cold start with more ign timing. That 6ms value is incredibly arbitrary it just rescales your whole map up or down. So it doesnt have to be an exact value, its just so you get good resolution of the numbers in the table. 6 or 6.7 isnt going to be a big deal
  8. Hey, If the engine has been tuned using Modelled Fuel equation then it can output instant fuel consumption in CC/min. But your injector data needs to be accurate for it to work good. If the engine has been tuned in traditional mode, then its trickier. So here are some options If you dont mind using a laptop and you just want to review the data at the end of a run: Log instant fuel consumption and vehicle speed at say 10hz, or whatever will give enough length of time for entire stage. Open PClink and look at the log file. Make a new feature thing on the page called "Statistics" and add fuel and speed to it. You can look at the average instant fuel value over the whole run, and then look at the length of time car was running to work out the total litres used. Average cc/min * how many minutes = total CC of fuel used so divide by 1000 for litres Alternative option using canbus and an arduino: Setup a canbus frame outputting instant fuel consumption and vehicle speed. Setup arduino to receive these, and then it could just incrementally count how many km you've travelled and how much fuel you've used. Could output to a small LCD screen or just a simple LED bar or something. While you're at it, may as well add some switches or potentiometers to this box, so you get some free inputs back to the ECU that you can send over CAN. I could probably bodge something together for this if you were keen.
  9. Ive heard mixed results from injector cleaning. But if youve got a standard ecu then you really need the standard injector to go with it. So unless you can find second hand replacements in better condition then cleaning would be your best bet. Ultrasonic cleaning might be needed if theyre really bad but you could try some of the injector cleaning stuff that you just tip in the gas tank. Some injectors have replacable filter baskets in the top, can buy replacements if theyre clogged.
  10. That's a clever idea using the LHD rack. This thing's coming together super quick! Do the K motors have a heat exchanger from factory like the beams motor does? If so will you be removing it?
  11. Roman

    KwS's TVR

    +1 to that, love your work
  12. Got a picture of what you need? Is it flat on the base?
  13. Since I cant do any resin infusion stuff I thought I'd just dump this into my mould for gearbox crossmember and see what happens. Okay so this was a fuck up. It's 65 shore D hardness not shore A Shore D is for rigid poly and shore A is for flexible So shore D 65 is around Shore A 100, AKA stupidly rigid as you'd expect! This would actually just hold my engine up as a crossmember, rather than the rubber for it haha. However I'm happy with how well the layer lines have been minimized on the 3d printed mould with some filler primer. Even if some of it stuck to the part on the way out. It was crazy seeing how this stuff sets. It's a yellowy transparent liquid, like water. Then after a few minutes it almost instantly turns solid and white. Will try some 65A polyurethane rubber next.
  14. This feels like a bit of a crossover from a few other threads. However I feel it deserves it's own to make light of how easy it seems* to do some basic casting which can be really beneficial for old cars where parts are unavailable or expensive. So firstly, I'd just like to make note of that although its an absolute wanker to machine afterwards, it looks exceptionally easy to cast polyurethane. I thought this was a decent example of the process, or lack thereof - combined with some 3d printing for easy way to make the mould. On the more complicated level, watched this video for casting replacement indicator lights from resin was bloody cool. So good! The one thing that absolutely terrifies my about my older cars, is busting a tail light. They simply dont exist anymore. It's some level of comfort to imagine it might be possible to cast a replacement. That's all for now, as I've not actually cast anything myself! But hope to cast some useful parts over next few months hopefully. If anyone's cast some cool shit, feel free to post it up I would love to see it.
  15. True, but I would prefer to keep the simplicity of packaging and troubleshooting that you get with coil on plug. This will be very close to the point of sump hitting crossmember anyway.