Roman

yep, perfect. You have to make sure to get the 1500cc version to get the good gearbox, pays to confirm on the chassis plate it says C56. You might not believe it, but from the time I had my echo project, to now, there's hardly any left. There used to be 2 or 3 or 4 vitz RSs at each pickapart, and if I didnt go pull the gearbox out then they got crushed with the car. Now on day 1, gearbox and other parts like bumpers etc are gone. And there are close to none coming through anymore.

There are two main versions of the gearbox. The C151/152/whatever which has a real horrible final drive to keep rpm low for economy reasons (think 2800rpm at 100kph) and then the C56 box, which has way better gear ratios and a 4.3 final drive. But it's harder to find as it only came in the Vitz RS. The common/cheap LSD from the 4AGE gearbox will fit into the C56 box, but not the other versions. Bike carbs will help your fuel situation, but it runs coilpacks as well. So you might need to do a dodgy dizzy conversion or something too. Also you'll lose VVT which isnt huuuugggge problem but it makes it a lot nicer to drive and overall powerband. By the time you've done all that, may as well just buy a link monsoon. (Says me, person who tight fistedly spends twice as much on half assed solutions regularly)

Hello Sir I think the most economical path to some extra hp is: -First you need to increase rpm, so you need a non factory ECU. Factory ECU limits you to 6400rpm, which sucks. -Second, by far the biggest restriction in the factory engine is the intake manifold. It's easy to adapt some ITB to it, a few people have used 4AGE throttles or CBR900(?) throttles with good results. -When you do this, it will be valve bouncing at around 7000-7200 rpm, in which case you need valve springs so it can rev out better. You can get valve springs on ebay from BC, or, the Thailand guys sell them same same for about half the price. Cant remember the name. -Next step would be bigger cams, this is where the motor will really wake up and you'll see 150 to 160hp at the wheels and power past 8000rpm. -Then from here everything is only incremental gains, like replacing the exhaust. It's a shame that needing an ECU is pretty much the first step, as its probably the most expensive part. The echo went pretty good because it was ~800kg, I'm not sure what an X19 weighs but if it's closer to 1000kg I'd perhaps look at other options. But at 800ish sort of weight it was absolutely amazing fun.

Yep this is one of those things where all the calculations in the world wont help. Just need to test and experiment. The "dip" is still more power than it had previously anyway!

Theres no comparison to any modern car if its got a dsg box. Even if its got less power the difference it makes is insane. But its about the experience not the outright performance! In most ways my daily driver is a much better car. Its funny how often you see people whos tow car is a significantly faster than the car on the trailer. But often the more powerful car lacks the same grin factor.

Not at this stage. Too busy anticipating parts falling off / flying out / etc to notice details like that. Haha I want to try some slightly shorter runners and push that bump over to the right a little more hopefully. But that will drag the dip with it too. I can possibly mitigate it with VVT or something. Maybe test a variable runner or dual runner length eventually. But for now, I'm super stoked with it!

We all know that I'm keen to creep the limiter up. haha. But I would also like to at least attend drag day first. Currently 9500 limiter so it starts doing stuff at 9300ish.

So good! Did you have any major take aways from the first major time out? As in any revisions to anything that you think are needed before next events. What is that reversed shifter arrangement like to use? I think that would break my brain having reversed H pattern. haha

I went to invercargill. It was incredibly pleasant. Anyway, back to this bullshit My fuel map is based on the result from TPS 1, and then the other bank will just run rich or lean depending on how wrong its throttle angle is. So I've been simultaneously revising my fuel map, and adjusting the left to right throttle balance too. In this table below you can see that when throttle 2 is at "30 percent" throttle one needs to be at 19 percent to match. and so on. A mildly annoying problem to deal with, but I've got it nicely matched up now. The difference in the fuel map now is absolutely incredible. It was well worth the effort to get the new intake made. Here's the extended rpm range of what I posted a few posts above. Gains everywhere, nothing anywhere is worse. I was surprised to see that even as low as 3000-3500rpm there are improvements. There might be some mild gains from doing some VVT adjustments, and perhaps it wants a little less ignition timing now that the airmass is so much higher. Although its not running a crazy amount of ign advance anyway. I can confirm that its pretty quick now. I am open to the possibility that the dyno results arent any where near the above estimates. However whatever the number is. It revs out amazingly, and its plenty fast enough for me. I've still got issues with clutch engagement, I need to fit the bias valve for the brakes, need a wheel alignment, and a few other fiddly things. But I'm comfortably on track for drag day. So long as nothing blows up in the meantime. It doesnt feel like it's out of puff, it just keeps going until the limiter starts kicking in if you havent shifted by then. Pretty stoked that it's all coming together now! Will get some video soonish

I fixed the fuel breather situation, and took it for a run up the road. Interestingly the bank to bank balance that wants to match AFR side to side isnt equal to what mechanically sits the throttles open at the same point. So even if my TPS situation wasnt funky, it'd probably warrant having the side to side differences anyway. So I'm just trimming the fuel to suit ethrottle 1 results, then tweaking the shape of the ethrottle 2 curve till things match up. Annoyingly though if using the 2nd table for ethrottle. Then NONE of the extra features that make ethrottle worthwhile, actually work. Idle control, ethrottle blip, or cruise control all only apply to the first bank. Which is irritating! It seems that the easiest way that I can "fix" this, is to swap out the pedal position as the load axis on the ethrottle 2 table. Swap it for "Ethrottle 1 target" Except, "Ethrottle 1 target" isnt something you can set as the load axis. ffs. What I can do though, is send "Ethrottle 1 target" to my dash over canbus, then have my dash send it back. I can use the canbus value as a load axis to bypass whatever reason it's not allowed. ha. What a fuck around, I was hoping to avoid having to do janky shit like this. But thats just V6 life I guess. haha The car is starting to drive nicely, even though had some serious lean and rich spots on the fuel map on first run. What is also funny is that on decel it kinda braps a bit sometimes when it gets to certain rpm. Hopefully I can sneak in another quick drive in the morning before I have to head to Invercargill for work. I've only got a vid of it from after, idling. But you get the idea

Cant you see I'm doing that enough myself already?!

So more ECU fun times. If I have a different table controlling left and right side ethrottle. Idle up doesnt work, throttle blip doesnt work, and cruise control doesnt work. As they all apply only to the first table. Fucking hopeless!

Yeah there's a company called variohm that makes some like that. But they're $3-400 each kinda thing. Ouch!

Yeah my last intake setup had 1x actuator pulling both banks open. I was getting frustrated with variations from bank to bank, so I figured that dual ethrottle would solve my problems... Ha! Yeah the ethrottle idea is alright, but if I can make it work fitting a gearbox'd motor directly onto the throttle shaft. It eliminates problems from linkages doing weird stuff or more points of backlash etc. TL;DR: ITB sucks balls for V motors, a single or dual throttle on one or two plenums would have made life considerably easier

Yeah that is an option. However it means I need to undo and flip all of the linkages, as they are designed to be pulled open from one end only. Then make some new throttle brackets. If the other options are looking no good, will go down that road. I took it for a trundle up the road with the throttle offset table in place, and everything seemed to match up nicely now but the motor was running horribly lean everywhere, like maxxing out 40% wideband trim adding fuel in, and still lean. The motor idles fine so I dont think it's a vacuum leak, maybe just has a lot more throttle area at low opening now. However after coming back from a drive it started dribbling fuel out of the charcoal can. So perhaps I've got the fuel return line and the breather line, the wrong way around. It looks like it might pay to add some insulation to the side of the gas tank that is parked near the exhaust so it doesnt heat it up so much too.