Roman

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Roman last won the day on October 20

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  1. Just press it on without the magnets and clicks in place
  2. Just to follow up, I'd been massively overthinking the complexity of this job. (with head on the bench off motor) Step 1: place stuff under the valves to stop them moving/bending Step 2: place a 19mm socket with a magnetic thing on the inside, on top of the retainer Step 3: hit it with the hammer step 4: Valve retainer thing is off Too easy Now to try the rope trick and get a knot stuck in it Might try on a pick a part engine first haha.
  3. It's not ideal, haha. But it's only at idle where there's a tiny amount of air and fuel anyway so total heat isnt huge I guess. Definitely makes it a bit noisier... Not very economical. Good Heavens.
  4. Yeah I've been concentrating on that a bit lately, as it's easy to end up with a really jumpy sort of car. At the moment because I dont have IACV connected it's using closed loop ignition timing to pull the rpm down, so it sits at like 15deg ATDC to idle But as soon as you come out of idle mode by pushing throttle it goes straight to say 10deg so its a big jump. Same as areas with a change in AFR goal, now I blend it out smoothly so you dont get weird shit if you're ever hovering just one side or other of a change from say 15.2:1 to 12.8:1 or whatever haha.
  5. Question for you @kpr You used to do a lot of road/track tuning with a few different techniques. But now that youve had a dyno for ages. Are there any areas which have given big surprises, as in, visible via dyno but very hard to quantify the old way? If you lost your dyno, what are the bits you couldnt do anymore, or what would you most miss. Just from tuning perspective rather than excellent addition to videos.
  6. If you want to try some launch control stuff at the drags with just one wheelspeed sensor then I've found this can work good But probably not 4200rpm launch when it's making a shitload of power there haha. Not sure if its better to use a fuel cut instead of ign cut though. Might be harder to get a burnout going though, and that's possibly 80% of the point of drags
  7. Hahahaha fingers crossed! Holy shit that windscreen banner is fucking amazing
  8. Also I remember when I drove the Echo to Nats in Nelson and people thought it was new and awful But now... Its not new anymore
  9. Unless something miraculous happens it looks like I'm not gonna be able to take this to the drags or do anything else much fun with it for a while. Reason being, this happened to my Nissan work car coming up the Bombay hill yesterday: With a BHG to match. So its off to scrap! Which now means I'm back to needing the Echo as a reliable and sensible driving appliance. For the meantime my job depends on it. Good thing I didnt manage to blow it up already. So I've gone back to the factory intake manifold so I can have an air filter back on it. It will still be heaps more fun to drive though than before! as the better springs/wheels/etc still make it a lot more entertaining. I put the new exhaust manifold on but it didnt make any difference. I suspect it would once the rest of the exhaust flows a bit better though. My printed ITB manifold was getting a bit tired looking with a few cracks starting to develop. It was still holding together fine but the idle quality was starting to get worse. I'm fairly amazed it lasted that long though, and the main cracks had just spread out from some areas that got damaged when I first tightened it up. A++ would prototype in this manner again but definitely not a long term solution. Looked nice with the black trumpets on it though. I'll still have the ECU and wideband in it though so I'll try wring some blood out of a stone in the economy stakes. 800km to a tank perhaps possible with lean burn strategy and some EGR? Usually around 650 on factory ECU. (from ~33 litres) which is 5l per 100km. In the meantime I will keep slowly hoarding some bits for a prius motor swap.
  10. They were say 5-10mm long But as you stir it they all form longer chains and it drags out of the pot so it still ends up very directional if that makes sense. Not great in quite tihht spaces
  11. Ok the chopped up carbon idea was good/bad. Because it was going into a tight space and i was sort of draping it in there with a plastic knife. All of the fibres orient the same way. So it broke very easily perpendicular to this direction as its only the epoxy holding it together. Will try again another time but be more concious of fibre direction. Probably would have been better with less resin. I think this will be great in some cases and a good use of scrappy left overs.
  12. I remember on a forum ages ago a guy tried the rope thing, and it tied a knot in itself and he couldnt get it out haha. Eventually got it free but something to be wary of.
  13. This is my scheme for a base plate for my trumpets. Trumpet just sits on/around an internal sleeve. Just smoosh some chopped up cf in the bottom and fill it up with epoxy so it hopefully self levels decently on the top side. Then bust the filament back out (or dissolve if needed) and hopefully have an OK flange that's decently strong. Also I've always found it a pain in the ass to get the portions of epoxy right for fiddly small amounts. However I've just got a pair of wide nozzle syringes. One is 20ml and another that's 5ml So with a 4:1 ratio I just need one full syringe of each and it's exactly right. Much easier!
  14. True, probably need to be quite careful with your approach to making a mold from it then too. I'd first consider making one from 2 part polyurethane closed cell expanding foam Not the shit in a can but buy some of the good stuff. Wax up the wing fairly liberally box up the perimeter then pour it on. As that way if the mold doesnt release it's less likely to damage the original part getting it back out. And prob try it first on something similar to get a feel for it. I've had more than 1 thing that never came back out of a mold...