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Roman last won the day on October 20 2020

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  1. Yeah that was why I needed to find out minimum duty cycle to keep it running. So I can put values in the table between 20% and 70% rather than 0 and 100.
  2. Just hooked up an electric water pump to control via ECU. So uses a spare output with varying duty cycle at 500hz to control the pump speed. Then the pump has another pin where it can output the pumps actual speed back to the ECU. So for testing I hooked it up to vary the speed with throttle position. So looks like below 20% and pump stays off, then above 70% it's flat lined at full speed. It looks like if it thinks there's an error/pump jammed (as seen below 20% part) it zings out a high pump speed number. So will see what options I have to hook these up to a "pumps fucked" lig
  3. I Zebra'd a new engine mount and also put the factory exhaust manifold back on, as the other one was leaking horrifically from everywhere. Then did a bunch of other things and got it fired up! Pretty chuffed with that, it's a nice feeling to not have it all blow up immediately. I reckon it's gonna be pretty rowdy with these cams haha. I then mucked around for ages and bodged together water and heater lines, filled it up with coolant, then.... fucked up. Despite my previous efforts I managed to wire the waterpump backwards and I think I let the smoke out.
  4. Okay soooo "The other guy" that did this, looks like he's used the earlier engine bracket, but this means one of the bloody bolt holes doesnt line up (again) Notice how on mine the bolt thats out of line faces "up" On this other same motor, faces "down" (So must be standard 1NZ bracket) There are different part numbers between 1NZ and 2NZ brackets for this, so I dont think my existing one will work. EDIT: Yeah definitely no chance of 2NZ one working, need to get a standard 1NZFE Bracket
  5. I got all of the bellhousing stuff sorted, got the manual rack in (I have to remember to do up bolts on the steering column...) Ends up losing about 5kg with the non PS rack and no pump. Then I got the engine mostly in but there's some weird shit going on with engine mounts on the engine side. (The other two are on the gearbox) The steel mount part on the Prius block is a different shape to the 2NZ one, so I cant swap them over. I am hoping this is because the Prius block uses a 1NZ specific mount that's different to 2NZ one, meaning I just need the different rubber mount and it'll wo
  6. Okay so I managed to find a manual rack car at pick a part. All it cost was 50 swear words, catching hepatitis from crawling over busted glass and about 20 bucks. Not bad. (Also got the rubber boot that goes over it) my manual rack turned up in the post some time today as well so im good to go. Its a big dick punch working on anything in the vicinity of the power steer so im happy to be rid of it. Then ive just been burning the midnight oil taking this gearbox off and on about 20 times to confirm bolt hole stuff and make sure it all goes together nicely. I still
  7. So more fails. My understanding was that if you swap the sump over, all of the bolt holes line up to the gearbox. But what it means is "At least the bottom half will line up" because literally nothing lines up to the engine block It looks like the best compromise is to drill the block. This means all of the bolts will work except for that center top one, which I guess is good enough. It's pretty meaty at the places I've drilled it. And yeah I literally just used a drill, thug life Ahhh well, still making progress I guess. Just need to file out one of the holes a little
  8. Looks like this might have it... will see if I can go have a look this week. http://pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicle.asp?PriceListID=0&VehicleID=11941&$Location=112105099107097112097114116099111110122&LocationID=4&VehicleDesc=Toyota NCP81 But what an absolute wanker of a part to have to try get out.
  9. From what I've seen there are two main types of speedo drives for Toyota boxes. "big gear" versions like W series box have say 31-35 teeth on them. https://www.google.com/search?q=g+series+gearbox+speedo+drive&sxsrf=ALeKk03yxNEvrg-dI2VonKFBQkNfv9cu0A:1619952729153&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiUleWX6qrwAhXPzTgGHVGrAUQQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=2560&bih=1273#imgrc=Bp1diltzu6K6xM Then "small gear" versions which have say 10 or 12 teeth on them. https://www.google.com/search?q=g+series+gearbox+speedo+drive&sxsrf=ALeKk03yxNEvrg-dI2VonKFBQkNfv9cu0A:161995
  10. Worst case scenario looks like can get one from Ebay. But it will be annoying if this holds things up, cant really put the motor and box back in until the rack situation is sorted. https://www.ebay.com/i/332862014592?chn=ps EDIT: It looks like later model cars that use the electric assisted column instead of a PS rack, some of them use that same intermediate shaft. Might be able to find something at pick a part. phew.
  11. Thanks, I had a look on some EPC sites but couldnt find a diagram like that. I'll call the wrecker and see if they've got the rest of the car there still. What's the bet that sensing my desperation this part now costs $600 haha.
  12. Yeah with the Carina, even swapping from a height adjustable column to one that isnt, absolutely bloody everything was different haha. It was also weird that my new gearbox had no speedo drive, just a blanking plate for it. But then thankfully it still had the nylon gear inside the box, so just plonked the other speedo drive in. It would have been a right bastard if that nylon inner gear wasnt there haha. It must run the speedo signal from the ABS unit on the NCP13 model. Maybe because with the big block 1500 motor you're doing too many hectic skids all of the time to rely on
  13. Big mission today to get old motor out and get the new motor/box/clutch/etc assembled. I was thinking it would likely be best/easiest to drop the motor out the bottom, like I've done with MR2 in the past. However once the axles are out it's pretty easy to turn the motor 90 deg and pull it straight out the front. Ended up spending about an hour and a half playing Dentist, when the new motor and new box both had the same alignment dowel stuck in them. Took a lot of heat and CRC and filing some flats into it before the bloody thing eventually came loose. Once that was sorted I
  14. Good tips, I wonder if silicon spray in the oil will help reduce frictional losses at high rpm
  15. I've pulled the throttles off the car to mock up on here. Then reverted Echo to standard manifold which is a bit more WOF friendly, even if it's technically legal with throttles on currently. Also thanks to the excellent dude Matt Gill I've got some 2ZZ injectors on the way. So that's most of the puzzle pieces solved! The main task left to figure out has been the alternator bracket, which has resulted in some head scratching and a few different attempts at finding somewhere for it to sit. Settled on this, which is very low down bolting onto bottom of the sump. Ideally I did
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