GARDRB

I feel like if you have problems with the shock returning to full droop you need to invest in some nice heavy chrome wheels

Hey @kpr, what's the theory on engines with 7s in their names?

This would be mean with an LS1 in it

Yeah, says no to an ECU and then 3D scans his box

I believe you have to hook the Spartan 3 up via serial to a laptop and change the config in it to switch from 4.9 to ADV. I recently bought one of each from JRP (one for me and one for a friend) and they said to make sure not to mix them up.

MX5 is front rack... Time for a double wishbone conversion

The tiny rear diff is the same as an ae86 diff according to Amayama if I recall correctly, the transfer case on the other hand... that's basically made of chocolate

And how can you say no to a company called Laycock

Next scope creep project "how I converted my car to quick change with $50 and a 3d printer"

I'm not sure if your screwdriver will do the job here buddy

Excellent, more pies and Vs for the tuner

Ok, boring pictureless update to help me procrastinate. I've been acquiring bits and pieces to install the Link. I've got 4 1az/2az coilpacks which fit the 1uz perfectly, well except for my drivers side rear one where the plug is gonna be very friendly with my clutch master, so I might run that one backwards. @Snoozin had a Bosch voucher he wasn't gonna use, so I bought that and got a temp/pressure sensor for oil, a map/iat combined sensor that I'll include in my throttle adapter and a liquid pressure sensor that I'm gonna tee into my fuel line before the rail. I got a Spartan 3 lite (by mistake, I wanted the CAN model) and an ADV o2 sensor. It's amazing how much wiring no longer needs to be on the engine. - No more drivers side cam angle sensor (just uses passenger side bank) - No more idle speed control (uses e-throttle for idle control) - AFM becomes MAP and IAT - No more factory o2 sensor wiring - No more ignitor wiring Not to mention the following going in the bin from the engine bay - Dizzys x2 - Coilpacks X2 - Ignitors x2 - Idle speed controller - AFM - Leads and the huge crossover cover for them can go. It removes a lot of junk off the front of the engine. I've been playing in the PC Link software and have assigned my inputs and outputs. Now it's time to buy a bunch of wire and start making a loom. I've been watching the HPA and Cartune videos to work out the best way to wire it up, now it's just working out which wire to use. TXL/TFL seem to be about the same price in NZ and TFL looks to be easier to get and still works out cheaper than buying the Link looms. TXL from the USA works out waaaaaay cheaper, but comes in 500ft rolls and it looks like it might be a little harder to get here, so time/money, I might just buy TFL from MSEL. I think I might replace my knock sensors with Bosch wideband donut sensors too.

Waikato has funny shaped bricks of cocaine

13B Turbo... G13B Turbo