GARDRB

Here I was reading through thinking "I hope he's put a picture of the sandblaster in" and you did. Thank you good sir

It's lucky Kris does all the work when you two are at work, coz I've seen your output and I've seen his

Fuck me, those collectors are art. What would secondaries to the diff like they do with rotary primaries be like? Obviously totally different engines, but different shit is cool

So I have a tacho dash for my ke70 but it only has three warning lights on it, battery, handbrake and oil pressure. It’s got three more spaces for lights on the back of it next to those three, but the flexible plastic circuit board is insulated over the pads for the bulbs. Whats the best way to remove this green insulation they these flexible dashboard PCBs from the 80s have?

Last night was a big night, I spent hours crawling through schematics trying to work out what I'd done years ago when I first got it running and working out what all the wires from the Corolla were that I'd used for switched and starter feeds. Got the ECU, alarm and fusebox tucked away nicely and untangled the end of the loom. Then spent 3 hours trying to work out why one of the factory injector wires seems to run through the body loom. *I've blurred Kelvin's plug pinout coz it's his IP and I've paid him for it. I really should offer to make him some tidier diagrams

An m-series headgasket is just a fuse for all the horse ponies

@kpr wouldn't have to spend so much time on his mill, I mean lathe, I mean horizontal drill press, chopping up 4ages if he'd started with the peak of Toyota performance instead of messing with that 16v junk

Funnily enough (as someone with ADHD) this is a rabbit hole that I've been down (when I was supposed to be working). There is a video I found of an American engineering dude on YouTube and he did similar, except he bought what I seem to remember was a treadmill motor, as this gave him speed control. I can't seem to find it at the moment, but he does a lot of cool tool conversions EDIT: found

So I was just thinking... The M13 and K15 Jimnys still use a divorced transfercase As such their manual gearboxes are essentially rwd gearboxes that bolt up to the M16/K14 Swift motors

Just coz I'm on a roll, and wasn't super keen to work yesterday I reassembled more of the front of the Corolla. I'd been trying to work out the best way to get the heater hose to the right and keep the hoses running semi-decently. I realised the heater tap was held together with little tabs so I spent an hour or so pulling it apart, sticking a big hole in my hand with my pick tool and then reassembling it rotated 90 degrees to the right. I got impatient trying to get all the tabs to line back up so ended up tacking the top cover back on it, hoping that it's gonna work properly now that I've pulled it apart. You can see the difference between them here and at least I have a spare tap should I need to replace it. I also trimmed the passenger's side header heat shield coz I think it looks better than the factory header. Hopefully the heat shields help with keeping some of the heat out of the engine bay. I think I'm gonna make one up for the driver's side that attaches to the chassis rail and deflects the heat downward. - Goop up sump pan. - Re-mount remote oil filter (in the engine bay this time, coz disconnecting it to pull the engine out is a pain) - Connect fuel lines at tank and in the engine bay. - Connect last heater hoses. - Fill with oil - Fill with water - Rebleed brakes and clutch (potentially add a clutch pedal stop so I don't over extend my hydraulic release) - Finish off the alarm/ecu wiring now that I've finalised location of the ECU and alarm and add a plug to the body loom for the ECU. - Alternator wiring I looked long and hard at where I was gonna mount the oil filter and I think I'm shit out of luck for a spot in the engine bay where I can both remove it easily, have it look tidy and not spill oil all through the engine bay. So it's likely going behind the front bumper again.

My little journey down the driveway has highlighted that the car is too low for how I want to be able to use it. I've got 50mm blocks and the Cs Garage leafs in it at the moment, but have some 40mm blocks to put in. I also need to cut my rear guards a little higher (up toward where the front flare comes down to) to give me some more travel before the tyre hits the guard. The front tyres are rubbing the guards all the time just rolling, so I'll lift the front up so there is a bit of guard gap. As it sits there is 80mm of clearance to the front edge of the sump pan, which isn't actually that terrible, but it's definitely lower than everything else and the crossmember has a lot of war wounds, so I'd like to section it to get it at least in line with the crossmember, which is probably only a 20mm sliver to take out. Ideally I'll wing it, so I might design something up in fusion and work out the best way to manufacture it, maybe a combo of 3d print and bolt together. The rear flare (a ke70 front flare) that's currently attached to the car looks like arse too, so I'm gonna cut that off and rotate it and try and get it fitting nicer. Ideally I'd like to drive it this week so for that to happen I need to do the following... - Goop up sump pan. - Re-mount remote oil filter (in the engine bay this time, coz disconnecting it to pull the engine out is a pain) - Connect fuel lines at tank and in the engine bay. - Connect last heater hoses. - Fill with oil - Fill with water - Rebleed brakes and clutch (potentially add a clutch pedal stop so I don't over extend my hydraulic release) - Finish off the alarm/ecu wiring now that I've finalised location of the ECU and alarm and add a plug to the body loom for the ECU. - Alternator wiring I thiiiiink that that is everything that needs to happen to drive it up and down the driveway. The goal is to have it driving by my birthday on Friday.

Ok, excuse the shit photos and the shit welding, but here we are, a computer update instead of just a phone one. I got the exhaust welded up and it hangs under it's own weight. It's a factory passenger's side UCF20 tubular header and a modified drivers side one to fit round the steering. From there it goes into two 2" v-bands, then some 2" bellows which have been a saving grace meaning I don't have to be an amazing fabricator and fit up in the engine bay meaning they don't hang down to catch on shit. Then it steps up to 2.5" coz that's what our 1uz guy recommended and runs round the gearbox and merges into a single 3" just behind the UJ. Then I've got an 18" M&H louvred fibreglass packed reso. It kicks up under the diff (which I'm still not sure is a good thing, coz once the suspension is compressed the exhaust hangs low) through a 3" v-band and up into an offset M&H muffler which sits on it's side in the factory location. I've mounted the muffler (just at the rear so far) using the factory exhaust bracket (much to @Dudley's disgust). I really like them cos they have a rubber block on them and then you hook the silly rubber loops on the end, so the mount can sit up against the rubber and the rings hold the mount up against it while still letting it pull away. The bolt that I ran through the mount also locates in a dimple in the centre of the rubber so it aligns it that way too. Overall considering it's the most welding/fabrication I've ever done and that I've never built an exhaust before I'm pretty happy with the results. The welding has definitely been improving and @Dudley has been giving me a couple of tips here and there and also reckons it's coming out decent for CO2 rather than argoshield. I've got a couple more mounts to make and need to secure the ae86 handbrake cables (that were the perfect length and fitted the ae92 fxgt calipers perfectly I need to mount these little retainers to stop the cable housing moving. I've made up some fancy little copies of the body mounts out of angle iron, but ran out of motivation for them and wanted to see the car on the ground. I knew I wasn't gonna get away with my fuel and brake lines down the tunnel, so have moved them out to the pinch weld and for now have just roughly straightened the factory lines with a second feed line to upgrade the tiny return. This was all so I could get the car on the ground and outside. Last time it was outside was 24 December 2017, so having the thing rolling and 98% complete felt amazing. I dragged it up the driveway to the same spot I took the last photos and grimaced and how rough the car looks since it was last outside, but it was nice to have it rolling again and outside and it felt like major progress.

I have some 6mm dyneema on my little boat. It has a 2000kg breaking strain

Put oil in the diff. Put oil in the gearbox. Put it on the ground for the first time in ages. Took it outside for the first time since Xmas 2017. Washed the fine layer of sandblasting dust off it and then struggled to push it back inside. All going to plan next time it’s out of the shed I’ll be able to drive it back in.

On the road? I hope this is getting one of those MT Performance Engines crank sensor kits