-
Posts
713 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
GARDRB last won the day on October 11 2024
GARDRB had the most liked content!
About GARDRB
- Birthday 11/04/1987
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
Converted
-
Local Area
Northland
GARDRB's Achievements

Post Fiend (4/5)
2.4k
Reputation
-
GARDRB started following Whangarei Monthly Meet. Wednesday 18th dec. Burgerfuel 7pm and sheepers buys a 4wd Datsun.
-
He does. @AE25 what condition is the front end in? Also do you have driver and passenger door in good condition?
-
haha the vin tag fell off (like really fell off, not "fell off") my brother's surf when we were working on it recently. It's now safely reattached with new rivets.
-
@drifter4ag should
-
First test cut of my drawing worked. Then I did one of the combination of 2T bellhousing and 1NZ block and somehow cocked my reference photo up for the bellhousing then got Covid. The consensus at drag day was that it’s a great idea. So now to work on the peer pressuring @Dudley phase
-
Rhyscar's Toyota Levin - ‘fab it all from scratch’ project
GARDRB replied to Rhyscar's topic in Other Projects
The 2ZR uses the 1ZZ header flange so I might see if I can get some factory MR2 headers. The car needs a WOF first though- 317 replies
-
- 2
-
-
Rhyscar's Toyota Levin - ‘fab it all from scratch’ project
GARDRB replied to Rhyscar's topic in Other Projects
Asking for a friend, did you end up getting a C60 for this and if so does it mount using the same brackets and mounts as the c56? I have a C66 and 2zr sitting in the driveway and I'm having silly ideas about putting it in my ae101 wagon- 317 replies
-
Whangarei Monthly Meet. Wednesday 18th dec. Burgerfuel 7pm
GARDRB replied to bigfoot's topic in Upper North Island Region
We just want to see if we can bankrupt you faster than the banana Mazda does -
Whangarei Monthly Meet. Wednesday 18th dec. Burgerfuel 7pm
GARDRB replied to bigfoot's topic in Upper North Island Region
Could definitely work in our favour -
Whangarei Monthly Meet. Wednesday 18th dec. Burgerfuel 7pm
GARDRB replied to bigfoot's topic in Upper North Island Region
Let’s take the KP and the KE20 so @gibbon gets us both a side of fries and I’ll shout you a burger -
Awesome, that kinda confirms what I thought
-
What torque do you suggest?
-
On the seat mounting topic, I know it's pretty much "if you use aftermarket rails your children will die in a fire and you will crash into a school bus and everyone will die unless you mount your seatbelt to the floor using a doubler plate" But if you were to manufacture a seat bracket in a way that didn't have any welds (folding and bolting and heavyweight material) can you mount the belt to the bracket?
-
Recaro boffins, lend me your ears. I have some factory ae101 Corolla Recaro rails from the factory fishnets, they are the 6 bolt pattern. I've looked at Accord Recaros and remember them being a 4 bolt pattern. Is there any rule for which seats are 6 bolt and which seats are 4 bolt? Ideally I want some modernish seats, but need the 6 bolt pattern. It looks like Evo 7 onward must have changed to the 4 bolt pattern? Are Civic/Integra seats 6 bolt? What about Suzuki Swift?
-
I drew this up, I'll laser cut it tonight and make sure it fits nice-ish Then @Roman found this drawing he'd done which gives me an idea of the J160 pattern. I'm also gonna draw up the 4K pattern and see how close that is and @Dudley is bringing me a 2T bellhousing too.
-
So the engine is back in the engine hole I'd forgotten how friendly it all is in there and have been playing hide the sausage in the back of the engine bay trying to get all the hoses and things in. The good news is that the new booster gives heeeeeaps of room from the driver's side head. The bad news is that the fancy new Tilton clutch master is still very close to the plug lead cover. I'm looking at scootching the engine forward a couple of mm to gain a bit more clearance to the clutch master and potentially spacing the gearbox mount up off the cross-member to gain a few more bee's dicks. Did I mention this engine isn't designed to fit in this car? The heater tap is pretty ugly, but I like that it's OEM and most of the sins are hidden by the factory 1UZ cover which I think looks pretty cool in the Corolla engine bay (when it's clean). Problem number two is that the rack and sump are still veeeeeeeeeery friendly. I've finessed the cast mount on the rack quite a bit, but it's pretty clear that the patch that banana sump guy put on the sump (after I ground it away too much) kinda needs to move, but I'm really struggling with the concept of taking the sump off again and getting someone else to weld it again, but deep down I know that this is the best solution. Early on I got some 12mm spacers made up for the cross-member because it appeared to be what all the cool kids who were doing silly swaps that weren't meant to fit in this small engine bay were doing. I really wanted to take them out, but have put them back in temporarily because the help with clutch cylinder clearance and also let me run a packer under the engine mount to get me some height off the rack. My ideal scenario is that I pull the sump out again and get it notched more and then sit the engine a little closer to the swaybar to give me more clearance to the clutch master. I'm also looking for one of these intake pipes, coz I like OEM and young, dumb me cut the resonator box off the bottom of it early on when I needed booster clearance. I've made a start on mapping out where I have space to wing the sump pan so I can shorten the height of it and try and retain the capacity, as currently the pan hangs below the cross-member, and the whole underside of the car is covered in scars from where it's been plowed into the road. The rectangle is safe space in the engine bay, so I should easily be able to get the capacity back after taking the 15-25mm off the bottom of the pan that I need. My brother is still campaigning for me to give up and put a 4 cylinder in it. But I really want to at least drive it. And the only engine that I've considered replacing it with is a K24 which ends up costing moonbeams in swap parts.