Hyperblade

There is a lot of weight savings to be gained in this area, k20 water pump housing is 5kg which is insane, the engine mounts are equally heavy, definitely worth focusing on this area in the future if your trying to save weight $/time spent is well worth it for the gains.

That's an awesome weight! Goes to show how over weight the 3SGE Beams really is.

@Roman time to revive the Yaris dream?

Slightly off. 53.52mm entry (2249.69 mm2) 45x42.52mm exit (equivalent of 42.84 diameter circle) but I believe the exit can be bored to 46mm without changing throttle plate (Unconfirmed) For what it's worth re sizing for k20 recommend from someone who has Dyno tuned a lot of racecars was 48mm jenvey. Larger were just not as good according to them. I also know someone here who dropped their kinsler itb size down to 48mm from like 52 and it performed better (4p head) Jenvey 48mm have 2 degree taper and 46mm exit

So 5 months later I finally managed to get some time to myself to look at this. It didn't help that i broke a 4mm tap in the last hole of the hats months ago, which certainly didn't put me in the right mindset to look at it (not to mention work/kids/life keeping me very busy). I also decided to buy new rotors as I should have solved the cooling issues now and wasn't confident that another skim would be good for the old ones, the new ones were eye wateringly expensive. So last weekend i finally got my head into the right space and got into the garage and had look at where i was and what i needed to do. Decided i should stop pissing around with all the stupid ideas on trying to get the tap out and just get @ajg193 to mill out the tap which he promptly did trivially the same day. (yeah I'm an idiot that should have got him to do it sooner). Go check him out at https://www.goodengineering.co.nz/ he's awesome. So this weekend got the new rotors on and the new plates mounted. Came out amazing, clearance is perfect, so stoked with it all, the 3d printing really made this job doable for me, otherwise i don't think it would look anywhere near as good as it does (or be possible). Next step is to 3d print some template to drill some locating holes for the carbon fiber ducts i have, then I plan to glue the ducts to the aluminum.

That is bloody impressive that you can just put the old engine back in with only minor changes!

Congrats on the win! That looks like a really fun track, I've never seen it used before, very cool with the elevation changes. Glad you came out of it unscathed, there was more then a few moments where I was wondering what the other cars were going to do, some of them seemed very focused on in front of them.

Your heading down the right path, anything being removed often from aluminum should use a stud. Alternative is a helicore type system. Rather then trying to beef up the design to suit, solve it how oem do (e.g. K20 has studs for manifolds) The benefit of a stud is you can also have a shank (smooth larger portion more accurate in size then threads) on it for correct alignment of the throttles to the manifold (again like oem). Looking awesome, love following your process/progress.

You definitely want the rotors and wheels to be hub centric, you track the car occasionally and that puts additional load on everything, and vibrations are a great way to suck any fun out of the day.

They look good! Unfortunately mine are fairly complicated due to the size of the rotor and wheel. It's made it challenging to get air the in, but i'm pretty confident what i've done will have a pretty big impact on temps. First Prototype: My original version probably would have worked with the rotor hat holes blanked off, but while i'm busy fixing those I may as well do the job properly and hopefully for the last time.

So onto the next problem, I've had warped rotors for a while (low down on priority list), so i had them skimmed ended up with 0.12mm taken off of one side... So went out again, car was braking amazingly, I could brake so later and with huge confidence, then they started warping again. Ok need to sort that out as the rotors aren't cheap. They have also been hitting 600c+ which is not good for rotor or pad life. I brought knockoff makita blower and I put it on the intake to the brake duct and measured where the air was coming out. 30kph straight in and 10kph straight out the rotor at the red circle, 0 out the vanes. Granted in hindsight, its bloody obvious, but just hadn't really through through the ramifications and how bad it was. Fundamentally the hat (GP4 Fabrications Kit) is just not designed correctly it should have no holes in it. One 3d print later I had Testing that alone made a massive different to the airflow (naturally, it's so fucking obvious now) with air coming out 1/4 of the vanes. Here's the old cooling, so while I'm there i may as well do the job properly and make sure the air doesn't come out the other side either as that could cause warping as well. Multiple iterations later we have this So after getting laser cut we end up with these Clearance to disk will be adjusted if it requires it. That's the simple part done, hard part is now ducting the air into it nicely/safely. You can see the technical chat on that here: Fundamentally current plan is to go with a PLA mould and fibreglass/carbon/Kevlar on top of it, then softening/melting it out, I have someone doing the work for me whos an expert in fibreglassing. Heres attempt number one (carbon/kevlar). He had a go at getting the Mould out but it put up a fight. So I've printed some thinner moulds to see if that makes it easier for him. However I think if I put it in the oven at 70c it should melt out, so going to try that too, if it works it's very cheap and easy to make the moulds for complex shapes. Now naturally while the front brakes were working amazingly (being straight and all) the rears are now starting to get up past 600c as there is not a lot of room to get air into them, 258mmx21mm disk with AP Calipers. So work is proceeding to see what can be achieved with redoing the caliper mount and/or moving disk outboard for easier maintenance/replacement.

Haven't posted much as been working through annoying gearbox issues. So in one of the races I was going into the hairpin and instead of selecting 3rd it went into 1st. In a honda that would have been engine gone, but as it's RWD it immediately locked up the rears and i had a bit of a moment, but no damage. Additionally in the last race on the last lap as i crossed the finish line I attempted to go from 5th into reverse... Not ideal... S2000's run a reverse lockout where you have to push the gearlever down, for some reason it was already down when i went to go from 5th to 6th and so it smoothly tried to shift into reverse (to right of 6th). The issues: The gearstick had always been slow to recenter if you let go, so while braking your trying to pick the center gate, rather then just letting it go then moving it straight forward. I probably forgot to lube the ball and the shift lever worked it's way down at some point over the laps so the lockout wasn't in effect. Solutions Pull apart gearbox and double check its ok and put a put a stronger centering spring in and a install an upgraded detent kit (near disaster). Lube the gearlever, and get an 80% stronger reverse lockout spring made (works well) Go back out, and just as i'm starting to do a fast lab in quali shift from 5th into 6th 4th... Well that's an even bigger issue, it literally just smoothly went into 4th no complaints and felt like it was going into 6th. Thankfully I had dropped the shift point from 8800 to 8000 to see if it would improve the overall laptime, so the engine only hit 9550rpm... So some head scratching later, and pulled some of the upgraded detent springs out, which improved it from going into 6th 10% of the time to 95% of the time just sitting in the garage. Went out again. Unbelievably did it again, but it took until race 3 (good footage of me dodging a stalled car on grid as well). So at this point this has to be sorted properly, the engine will not take much more of that. Looked at hand position, concluded I hadn't really changed it between good and bad. So the Issues It turns out the detent kit was not installed as per the instructions (plus there was a last minute change to where a couple of springs were put then it wasn't tested), so that's a big issue on my side. However one of the springs puts an insane amount of pressure on the selector shaft (hence why it wasn't put in), to me it's just been poorly designed. So all upgraded detent springs removed, the center spring stays. But one of the issues is that their is so small amount of movement needed to go from the 3-4 gate to the 5-6 gate. What do i mean? Here's the lever in 3rd, Here's it in 5th That and I think the kinematics of my position is not helping the engine/gearbox are on an angle in the car, engine more over to passenger (left) side, so as you pull gear lever back, you have to put more pressure to the right. I think the detent springs accentuated this with the amount of pressure they required to hold it across. So solutions: Make the gear lever longer to give more throw between gates Remove the rubber isolator in it to remove any play in it. Find out the gear lever is also bent to the right, so straighten it... (this makes the kinematics worse) So here's the inside of a Honda S2000 gearshift lever (aluminum sleeve has rubber bonded to it) Spend time making up a longer shaft and end up with this Throw wise it's going to slow me down a bit, which is a good thing. It puts the lever height wise in the middle of the wheel, which is perfect. So fingers crossed all those changes finally give me some confidence to be able push it hard again.

Completely understand your position on lending stuff it's a bit much work to take the entire rear axle assembly (AE86) out of the car, but i'll see how I go with manual measurements and hit you up in a few weeks if i get stuck. I definitely have another item you could easily scan (headlight surround) which would make my life a whole lot easier but it's way down on my priorities list at the moment. I have technical drawings of the calipers etc, it's more just working out where in 3d space they sit compared to housing. I want to see if it's worth remaking the hat and moving the caliper outboard within the wheel and tolerances are very tight all round.

Lidar on the iPhone definitely helps quality. Unfortunately I'm running android and I was not impressed with the photo scanning.

Especially when you add up all the time spent designing some of this stuff, then tweaking to actually be manufacturable. You end up skipping a lot of steps and saving time. We live in amazing times. It certainly makes me think twice about 3d printing my intake manifold in nylon, when i can just do it straight to aluminum.