Hyperblade

That's a very good point. Unfortunately the graph only shows the effectiveness of the pads at different temperature levels. How long your on the brakes each corner is going to have a big impact on where it falls into the range and it doesn't tell you how much heat your brake setup is producing (each different compound produces different amounts of heat at different durations back into the system) and how effective the cooling is in between applications. For hill climbs I suspect you want consistency above everything else, as you really don't want to lockup and go off the road (that plus varying surface for grip) or lose effectiveness because they are hot, so something as horizontal as possible? or slightly trending down at the end would make sense to me (just pure speculation on my part) so a W4 might be best suited as good initial bite then fairly consistent up to 500c?

They get a lot worse when you break the tiny bleed nipples off such a stupid design. I run W5 and I don't have an issue with them from cold. If your look at the coeffcient data they are actually pretty good from cold.

I'm using 95a which is on the stiffer end, so haven't seen that issue yet, but the softer stuff and depending on design definitely yes I could see it as an issue. The issue you face is for most people printing supports in tpu would be impossible to get off the part. And you cant swap the filaments using the ams as tpu has to be run outside it and it would be an awfully lot of manual work to unload reload it on the interface layers you needed it. Pla is amazing as support for it if you can get a machine to do it. Also tpu is amazing, up there with paht in usefulness. My axle flange gaskets and steering rack bushes are made out of it. The ability to print flexible parts is so useful for small things, highly recommend trying it out.

With the gearbox back in, i could scan the top of the shifter bracket and the tunnel to make a boot to stop any potential fire/smoke/fumes getting into the cabin. One of the cool things in having the shifter bracket already designed is I could just import it and align it to the scan so had an easy base to design off. Couple of iterations later, I have the final boot printed in Bambu Lab TPU 95A 1.5mm wall thickness (using PLA supports) which gives it the needed flexibility. Really tidies up the shifter hole in the tunnel quite nicely.

I've taken a different approach. I spent ages looking for a clean solution where I didn't have to code my own... I've picked up a RaceCapture/Track (mk4, https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapture-track-real-time-motorsports-telemetry-system/) which connects via canbus to the ecu (it also has canbus out), so it has the GPS and lap timing and can get all the data from the ecu and combine to then output on a digital dash via the race capture app (android, ios, windows). Or livestream it all back to Podium (cloud). Untested as currently still sitting in box awaiting other things to be done, and obviously not cheap, but it's something I don't want to be maintaining.

So the gearbox is finally in. Bracket annealed and painted. Then a massive thank you to @Bling for helping me put the gearbox in. What was meant to be a quick 15 mins morning job turned into a 2 hour morning job then turned into another hour in the evening to get it in. Our first attempt was a failure because when we put it in the holes wouldn't line up, it needed to be rotated 3mm, but it didn't want to and we couldn't work out why, thought it was the dowel pins, input shaft being locked etc. Turns out looking at the old gearbox, right at the top (of course where you can't see in the car) there was a mark, pretty minor looking (only 1.5 mm deep), but actually that's a deliberate indent to allow it to rotate. I probably knew this 5 years ago went I put the engine in, but clearly forgot it... With that clearanced, it went in smoothly. Even lines up with the shifter hole, which is a bonus...

Work continues on the brake lines, I need to get 3 to the master cylinders, and one over to the right front caliper. WIP

With the pressure sensors on the left now, it made sense to run the rear brake line along the left hand side of the tunnel. Which then meant redoing my fuel lines... 3D printer comes in really handy... (brackets are just prototypes, will be redone in black.)

Famous last words for someone who doesn't have to do the work... 🙃 Just to give some background on the options, the Ford setup I'm looking at is based on a genuine Zacspeed setup, in a starlet, with 13x10" rims proven on the track. So it's the easiest option as basically copy/paste. Will do some more detailed googling and see if your suggestion is viable as an option. Yeah, car doesn't like to turn in, scrubbing of tyre, my car used to lift inside tyre a lot on the 15"s but not anymore after 13"s and sway bars. This is current setup, I still need to work out the wheel hub to outer tie rod positions, but that doesn't appear impact current roll center/instant centers * https://www.vsusp.com/#0.8%26project_name%3AKP61R - Current%26trim{body_roll_angle%3A0|front.left_bump%3A0|rear.left_bump%3A0|front.right_bump%3A0|rear.right_bump%3A0}%26front{frame.susp_type%3A1|frame.bottom_y%3A8000|frame.center_to_upper_mount_x%3A47500|frame.bottom_to_upper_mount_y%3A62000|frame.center_to_lower_mount_x%3A30250|frame.bottom_to_lower_mount_y%3A6500|control_arms.upper_length%3A24800|control_arms.lower_length%3A30000|knuckles.hub_to_upper_x%3A15000|knuckles.hub_to_lower_x%3A9840|knuckles.hub_to_lower_y%3A12866|knuckles.hub_to_upper_y%3A13000|knuckles.hub_to_strut_axis%3A12711|knuckles.strut_incl%3A8200|steering.active%3A1|steering.hub_to_outer_tie_rod_x%3A9000|steering.hub_to_outer_tie_rod_y%3A8000|wheels.offset%3A0|wheels.diameter%3A1500|wheels.diameter_expl%3A33020|tires.size_convention%3A1|tires.section_width%3A22500|tires.aspect_ratio%3A4500|tires.diameter_expl%3A54000|tires.width_expl%3A24200|tires.compression%3A0}%26rear{frame.susp_type%3A0|frame.bottom_y%3A9200|frame.center_to_upper_mount_x%3A28500|frame.bottom_to_upper_mount_y%3A24000|frame.center_to_lower_mount_x%3A17000|frame.bottom_to_lower_mount_y%3A2400|control_arms.upper_length%3A24800|control_arms.lower_length%3A37500|knuckles.hub_to_upper_x%3A15000|knuckles.hub_to_lower_x%3A13000|knuckles.hub_to_lower_y%3A13000|knuckles.hub_to_upper_y%3A13000|knuckles.hub_to_strut_axis%3A14000|knuckles.strut_incl%3A8000|steering.active%3A0|steering.hub_to_outer_tie_rod_x%3A7620|steering.hub_to_outer_tie_rod_y%3A7620|wheels.offset%3A4000|wheels.diameter%3A1500|wheels.diameter_expl%3A35000|tires.size_convention%3A0|tires.section_width%3A19500|tires.aspect_ratio%3A4500|tires.diameter_expl%3A50000|tires.width_expl%3A7620|tires.compression%3A0}%26pref{diag1.px_per_mm%3A200|diag1.front_or_rear%3Afront|tab.active%3A6|units%3A1|show.f%3A1|show.ca%3A1|show.k%3A1|show.st%3A1|show.stl%3A1|show.w%3A1|show.t%3A1|show.rc%3A1|show.rcl%3A1|show.ic%3A1|show.icl%3A1|show.fvsa%3A0|show.tl%3A1|show.kpil%3A1|redraw_during_drag%3A1|chart.x_axis_center%3A0|chart.x_axis_window%3A10|chart.x_axis_num_steps%3A21|chart.x_axis_field%3Atrim.[FR].left_bump|chart.y_axis_fields%3A[FR].tires.left_camber} * I've brought the HPA suspension course, so I just have to sit down and find some time to watch it and understand what it all means, just been working on plumbing for now.

All dumb ideas considered! A few potential initial issues i see (from a quick google) that would require more investigation Stud pattern is different (4x100 vs 4x114.3), hub can't be redrilled. 13" wheel fitment (sounds like it's close) 13x10" fitment, not sure how easy it is to clear the bottom arm when they turn. No off the shelf brackets for my brakes calipers May have to replace shocks? Fitting the top A arm in might be tricky. Mounting of the rear lower arm pivot point would be tricky RE the 1970's ford parts, none of what i would be putting on the car would be second hand, all would be brand new reproductions... So I'm not to worried about that aspect of it.

The Honda S2000 Shifter relocation is nearly done just waiting on 3d printed aluminum brackets to arrive in couple of days. Work has been progressing on another pain point with the car, the pedal assembly. Anyone with a starlet will know this, but putting a pedal box into them is a fair bit of work (made worse by a roll cage), the trouble really occurs when you have to work in that area. It is a full days job (a true 8 hours+) just to remove the pedals, master cylinders, pressure sensors and pipe work for me. And that's with an access hatch from the engine bay. And don't even think about just trying to adjust the balance bar between the cylinders, not possible. I need to make it easier to work on, and also add a clutch pressure sensor (for future fun stuff) so out with the angle grinder and I have a new access hole from the top. I've now scanned it, and will design a 3d printed lid and top to go there to seal it back up (will be printed in polycarbonate flame retardant), technology these days is so cool. Additionally I wanted to simplify all the pipe work, and make it much easier to change the pressure sensors if I needed to. So it made sense to just move that stuff to the passenger side (left) of the car, that gives a huge amount of room back around the pedal box. So out with CAD and a 3d printed prototype bracket, then while i was there I made a whole system for mocking up the brake line bends and working out where to run the pipes... Here's where I'm at with the lines, absolutely stoked with how they are turning out, cleanest job I've done so far.

Dave at dtech knows what he's doing, highly recommended in the race scene, he often remote tunes cars down here (chch), and people take cars up specifically to get tuned by him.

So definitely good thinking. And something we considered. Unfortunately we have already done all those changes! 🙃 Current wheel base is AE86 in length, which we did for all the reasons you stated. Bottom arms would have to go a long way forward now to put the rack behind. Number 1 spark plug hole is inline with the top of the struts and the rack needs to sit in front of sump/pulley so not a lot of room to move it further back, could go dry sump, but that then needs the rack move a long way back to get it to fit in the middle of it.

1.5 to 2 (by the time i sell my old setup) At the last prices I had for the tyres, pretty sure they will be higher these days. I have enough of the current tyres for a while (although getting really old now), so not something i'm panicking about. It's not the driving factor for the switch, but worth considering with any change in the area. Probably Less then me making steering arms, new rack and rack mounts as I can outsource some of the work. I'm also at the stage where I want things done right, and while I would prefer not to miss the start of another season, I'm ok with it as I help out enough organising them so involved either way. Good questions though! Well to be fair the focus was putting the engine in (and significant changes to the rear end) and things flowed from there rapidly, we didn't initially plan to swap the cross member but had to to fit the engine in (so that's on me for not verifying clearances), we just never took the time to double check things, we just switched the struts and lower cross member around (and rewelded rack brackets) and moved on to the next issue so wasn't actually much custom stuff going on there. The car sat for 2 years afterwards being worked on, so It's also on me for not thinking through the ramifications. Also some of the issues would still apply with the rack in the original behind position, and that's because I just bolted on T3 parts and winged it (as was dealing with stubb axle/bearing issues which triggered the switch to AE86). Tyre is a 24/57 - 13 Tread width: 241mm, (but across all the brands ranges from 245 to 260mm) Section width 289mm it's a F3/F4 tyre. If you look at all the brands offering slick tyres, the F3/F4 is a common size across them all. Otherwise everything has pretty much shifted to 17"+ tyres, there are 15" options, but actually more limited then 13".

Always happy to be challenged by people! I need to get it all into a spreadsheet to confirm with numbers and visuals. But pretty confident it's got bump steer issues (rack also looks like it's in at an angle right side lower then left...). Pretty sure rack is also to short for the setup. While that is all fixable on it's own, There are a couple of other factors I'm considering Repairability, and easy replacement options. Support for wider 10" rims (to be able to get cheaper tyres long term again) Setup has already been put into a very quick starlet track car (1:32 with 1600cc, which if you know Ruapuna is very quick). The ability to sell my current setup as is, covers a fair amount of the costs to switch. So it's not entirely an unknown. But ultimately the thing I need to do is get all the measurements into a suspension spreadsheet and prove it. Then look at where I want to go to and confirm it will work.