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About Hyperblade

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  1. Just saw your video Please go and check your seat mounting, your seat is moving around way to much for my liking Here's a recent example where a seat mounting broke, note that it was a low speed crash in the scheme of things and the belts could probably have been a little tighter... You can see the seat moving around prior, but a lot less then yours... https://www.facebook.com/sambushellmotorsport/posts/1987233984751634 Ended up with damaged ribs.
  2. I own the car now, you can see where I took over from here It's still yellow and a Toyota (just)
  3. If your looking at light engines, you should run the numbers on a bike engines turboed... Pick the right cc you can even stay in under 2L class
  4. Thanks! The ducting takes a while, lots of planning, but i'm getting practiced at it now. Riveting makes it easy, no special tools required. I would love a bussmann box with more relays, I always seem to run out, but i prefer having everything centralized rather then have full amps going through a switch. I suppose PDM's are taking over that space, but they are still to expensive for number of outputs.
  5. Exhaust in place for a trial fit, nice and compact. Engine side of the wiring loom done, except for the aftermarket sensors. Working on radiator/oil cooler ducting. Really happy with how they are coming out. Things are tight: So the Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body and the Skunk2 Ultras street manifold spaces (to increase plemnum volume) don't fit together. So you end up hacking the throttle wheel to make it all fit. Speaking of Skunk2 brillance, here's how the intake manifold arrives to you str
  6. @Roman Honda Plenum Sizing FYI RBB (06-08 TSX) Part #: 17110-RBB-000 Weight: 6.2kg Throttle body opening: 60mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 31.0cm Runner width: 4.4cm (min) Runner width: 4.8cm (max) Individual runner volume: 492.5cc Total runner volume: 1970cc Plenum volume: 1650cc Total manifold volume: 3620cc RBC (CL7) (supposedly one of the best) Part #: 17100-RBC-J00 Weight: 4.5kg Throttle body opening: 62mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 18.5cm Runner width: 4.8cm (min) Ru
  7. Been a bit quiet lately on this, I've been doing a fair bit of work on planning the wiring design and then I had to order the bits. The design was fairly complicated because of all the sensors I added, and planning the bulkhead connectors. I ended up with 2 bulkhead connectors due to the size of wiring I needed to get through the firewall, with one handling most of the engine, and the other handling high power items like Fan and EWP. Bulkhead connectors mounted with a nice plate that locks them so they can't rotate. I put myself through the High Perf
  8. Just for everyone else following along. Here's Jamie's engine on dyno.
  9. Picture heavy post follows: On to the finishing off the brake lines. Redone the pedal box piping so I can add some brake pressure sensors at a later stage, a lot easier to do it now then once it's installed. However it's a hell of a job fitting everything in, without the access port from the engine bay it would be impossible to get it as clean as I did. All lines are being run in the cabin to keep a nice clean look. Lines in wheel wells given some protection. Move the reservoirs which were remote to being directly on the master c
  10. Set of TRD headers on TM for the low price of $1000... Claims 7.4kW(10ps) improvement... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2814713140
  11. So rust all repaired and on to fitting everything back together, a much more fun job. Rear diff painted, and new brake lines run. With the diff moved back, brake line won't reach chassis, so moved it to exit internally (all lines will be running inside the car) New feed and return lines run through to cabin from surge tank, using hardlines for as much as possible due to cost/weight savings. Tapped the head for the water fitting and blanked it off as I don't need it for my setup, saved 120g by chopping it in
  12. As Spencer said their are so many different designs/lengths for the K20/24 manifolds. I agree with him that some of this is for different types (weight etc) of cars. I also think a lot of it is packaging in the engine bay. I.e the Euro has a bigger bay so can fit in longer runners. But same manifold won't fit in Integra without a bit of chopping, replacement. Also Honda doesn't just stick with what they know, they do try and optimise for each engine/car combo. i.e the FD2 has a range of changes just for 5HP. The American market is interesting, a lot of people are really t
  13. Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing? Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is??? I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their...
  14. It's a nightmare. I tried a number of things, but what worked best was a Clean and Strip Disc on a grinder e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10311-toolshed-clean-and-strip-disc-115mm?categoryId=1918 It doesn't heat it up so it comes off fairly well, it does however create massive mess (I'll still be finding bits in the garage for years to come) However you do end up going through a lot of them as they wear out, and you have to be so careful you don't catch them on anything otherwise large chunks come off. The other thing I tried that worked was an Oscil
  15. Interior/Engine bay finished off: New Driveshaft done. so tiny!: I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a spit which made doing the underside possible. But what a mess it ended up making stripping the paint/underseal. Before: After: Really happy so far, looks a lot tidier.
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