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About Hyperblade

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    Here's a small build thread of my car done by original owner. http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~quibel/Starlet2c.htm He got the engine to run with stock ecus and dash. There's wiring PDFs on there, let me know if you need any other diagrams as I have a copy of most I thought I would need(have gone to link now) Edit: found my Google drive folder, more stuff here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-vnGydBzxEXdGhpcFRWdXRTb3M
  2. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So the club day 3 went well, always good when can drive the car back on the trailer. Positives Back no longer hurts sitting in the car, new seat works well, although has blocked my rear view vision a bit. Car only hit 96c engine temp, while in traffic (28c day) so very happy with that. Brakes were lasting better. Handling was much better after corner weighting the car and fixing the cross weighting Negatives Car felt a bit sluggish with the new diff (4.3 from 4.7). Car felt like throttle was sticking (was idling higher in pits until i gave it a rev and it dropped), even though it wasn't. However looking at my best laptimes from the 3 different races vs the last club day, paints a different story. Club Day 2 1:39.040 1:41.980 1:40.270 Club Day 3 1:38.824 1:39.307 1:39.911 So in a considerably hotter day, I've actually gotten faster. Even though it felt like i was slower. So the next job's to do before the next club day. New side exit exhaust system with new headers (currently running stock exhaust manifold) New cold air intake, getting rid of the trumpet socks Replace the fuel system with a fuel cell which also means new fuel pump, filter, FPR (can do it after I get rid of exhaust) New Tune Replace the cheap aliexpress idle up valve with a genuine one as I think it's staying open when it shouldn't. Buy a filter for the go pro so that you can actually see the track. I'm hoping to get a little more HP out of those changes, especially nice would be getting some top end back, as it's sluggish after 7000rpm. Long term I need to lighten the car some more to ease the load on the brakes (most of the race starlets down here are around 700kg or less and have to run street pads as they can't get enough heat into them). Currently it weighs 880kg with a 55/45 (front/rear) weight distribution. Videos:
  3. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So a fair bit of work has gone on for tomorrows race day. Previously the brakes had been overheating front and rear, you can see how tight a space it is to work with So off to Brent at Palmside to sort out the brakes as that's beyond my ability. Some nice backing plates later it all fits in quite nicely. While it was in the workshop it was time to finally get rid of the old seat, it had a sprung base and back so my spine was bent in it, and I would get a sore back straight away when I tightened the belts. Also my head hit the roof, so in an accident there was a high change of breaking my back. Fitting a race seat to a starlet can be a challenge, but the Racetech 4009THR ended up fitting perfectly, it's dropped me a lot lower, and with out the cushion I now have 10cm + of head room, which is a small miracle, as it's frustrating hitting your head on the roof/rollcage. Brent put in some proper mounts (the nuts on the old ones were starting to pull through floor) so it's really solid now, need to get the steering wheel slightly closer but that's easily sorted. While it was there new 4.3 crown wheel and pinion was fitted to replace the 4.7, which will stop me hitting the rev limiter just after the start finish line. Got the splitter and flares painted and all fitted up. One of the big issues I had when i was last out (23c day) was engine cooling, it just kept climbing and eventually the ecu started limiting the revs. So time to fit an oil cooler to free up some of the cooling capactiy of the raidator (engine runs oil to water heat exchanger). At the same time i've opened the front of the car up by chopping the bumper, and fitted blanking plates to force the air into the raidator/oil cooler. Chopped the engine cover cos racecar/stop heat building on the coils. So with the race day looming the only day to practise was yesterday, when the temps hit 33c, with trepidation, but knowing it would be a good test of the car went out for a couple of runs to make sure everything was in order. It was really really really hot in a 3 layer suit, however the car performed really well. In clear air the coolant temps didn't go over 92c, the brakes didn't overheat, and I just lasted the distance. So really happy with that. Pretty Graphs! Last Race (23c) Shakedown (33c) Will see how it goes tomorrow, but the next major items are a new exhaust and cold air intake with filter (so can remove the trumpet socks).
  4. Truenotch's BEAMS AE86 racecar discussion

    I'm looking at getting a quick release steering wheel adapter like yours, how are you finding yours? Any issues/things to watch out for? Quality holding up ok?
  5. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61" Discussion

    It's a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 https://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/tablets/thinkpad/thinkpad-tablet-2/ I got it as it has the 2 USB ports which makes life easy. I have it so it auto logs in, and then automatically runs PCLink on startup, which is then configured to auto connect and go full screen, this means if the tablet has an error, it should automatically restart and eventually get back in to displaying the dash (startup from cold is a bit slow).
  6. Truenotch's BEAMS AE86 racecar discussion

    Wow, that would not have helped, impressive as it was!
  7. Truenotch's BEAMS AE86 racecar discussion

    That's concerning I think i'll leave mine at 7800 then!
  8. Truenotch's BEAMS AE86 racecar discussion

    Out of curiosity what rev limit were you running? Stock 7800?
  9. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So while I was deciding what I was doing with the front splitter I sorted out a few other odd jobs. First one was a decent rear view mirror, I got this mirror bar locally, but the mounting wasn't great, so AliExpress to the rescue for some fog light brackets and a bit of chopping, i now have a really good mounting, here's hoping vibration isn't to much of an issue. Can now see out each rear side window from the drivers seat, where as before I could only see out the rear window. To finish off the side windows I painted a black border on the inside, definitely worth doing they look really sharp now. Got the hole cut for the Naca duct. And all finished. Managed to get out to view the Speed Festival on the weekend, great turn out of starlets for Shellsport and SS Cup. (and also saw @pe-arce's Beams powered escort battling it out on track which was awesome after following the build online). I took my tape measure out to measure the front splitter height on the starlets and most were running around 80-90mm clearance to the ground, (some were on 13 inch tyres some 15inch) so with that to aim for I finally got mine sitting right at around 92mm (at some point I will install an undertray and I can always lower the car more as I have more clearance on the tyres) I just have to finalise mounting to the guards (slightly off the old rivnuts so have to remove them all and nut and bolt for now) but making good progress. Next club day is 10 Dec so everything has to be done before then!
  10. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61" Discussion

    Thanks for letting me know! They are stored in Google Photos, and the forum software was being smart and linking rather then copying them, looked fine to me as I was logged in. The other ones were hosted on a public img host. All fixed
  11. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So up to present day. The rears are AE86 disks and have a shield around them which holds the brake line and is also attached to some steel which the caliper is bolted to. Time to get rid of it so the hot air has somewhere to go. So some very careful cutting with an angle grinder we end up with this. That should help, if it's not enough then might have to look at vented disks. At some point I want to get fiberglass doors which will have windows that won't go down, so driver cooling will get worse. So time to duct some fresh air. So first need to fit some Polycarbonate rear windows. I now have a NACA duct being fitted to the passenger side which I will then duct to the dash and point at me. So for the front brakes, I've been holding off cooling them as I have a new body kit to go on (as the front splitter has brake cooling holes built in. The car came with a kit that doesn't really fit, you end up taking a section out of the middle of the splitter to reduce the width as the splitter does not fit nicely to the flares, the angles are all wrong and it's all under stress. I also want to be able to get spares so I got some new ones locally that are made for the bug eye and which I can get more of easily. As you can see, miles off from fitting. Now having never done this type of work before, cue much swearing as I try and get them to fit. So 2 weeks later (many nights of just walking away before I make this worse) this is currently where I'm at. It's close but not quite right (and of course doesn't line up with the old flares mounting holes), you can see however the fitment of splitter to flares is 100x better. I'm currently trying to work out if I can get the front higher without chopping to much of the splitter or chassis rail seams (which stick out).
  12. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So normally you would sort all the issues out for the next race, but I got busy, so did bugger all on the car So next club day came around, and it was stinking hot, 23c... So me in my 3 layer suit was siting on the dummy grid thinking I really should have got round to the driver cooling... Race 1 went ok, but I noticed the temps were getting up on the car, and driver, and brakes. Race 2 was the first time the car has ever been behind another closely for extended time, engine temps really didn't like that (104c) so the rev limit dropped on me (safety mechanism when the car gets to hot) first time it's happened to me and really annoying. Race 3 wasn't great, I ran with the fan on the whole time, but temp's just kept climbing and the rev limit lowered for the last lap which was the worst timing. Looking at the temp paint, the front's were no longer coping. There isn't a whole lot of space for the calipers in the wheels. It looks like with the higher ambient temps during the day, the brakes got hot enough to expand and gouge my wheels :/ The car is still fairly heavy (full glass and doors) so that's not helping the brake situation either, other guys with starlets are running street pads and no cooling. So new list of items that I must sort out for the next club day in December Cool Brakes Cool Engine Cool Driver
  13. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61"

    So 1 new car trailer later And a new tow car... My brake upgrade to bring costs down was ready to go... So out for a frustrating couple of test days, where the brakes were spongy one corner and rock had the next, finally tracked it down to the rod going into the master cylinder (which i had replaced) was slightly sticking so the pistons were staying out, once that was solved the pedal felt much better. So onto the first Canterbury Car Club - Club Day 1 where I had an awesome 3 races. Oh so close to winning the handicap race, pipped just before the line. Car was handling much better on the new size tyres, and brakes were more consistent although I noticed some fade. With the new smaller wheel size however i'm now hitting the rev limit not far after the finish line in 6th, so have to feather it at the limit, which is annoying. So once back home had a good look at the temp paint. Front: Rear: So looking at the paint colour change (we want between green and orange) we can see the didn't set off the 550c paint on the front (which has no cooling) which is great. Rears however started to set off the 630c paint which is not good.
  14. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61" Discussion

    Nope still has battery as well. I happened to talk to the Link guys out at the track and they said noise on the USB power line can cause issues with computers. I've also had it lock up when i unplugged the USB power so I generally leave it plugged in now. I have a dedicated 12v from battery which I can switch on separate from ignition so I tend to leave that on the whole time i'm out at the track. I use a similar system for the GOPro but it doesn't have the battery any more. On the dummy grid the blue screen happened when i started the car while it was already getting power through the USB, so noise does make sense as the cause. It took the whole warm up lap to collate data to send to microsoft before rebooting, nothing like driving around and watching a progress bar...
  15. Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "BEAMS61" Discussion

    Absolutely no latency or lagginess once PC Link is running. The 8inch tablet was a 1.2 ghz quad core processor and 1gb ram and that was fine too even on battery. There is a delay when PC Link starts and it loads all it's resources but that lasts about 5s then it's sweet from then. I did have the tablet bluescreen on the dummy grid, but I've set it to restart automatically, login then load up PC Link so it came back just as i started the race. Oh and Windows 10 auto updates are a pain (so slow to update and sometimes fails), but if you don't have wireless connected it can't do anything.