Hyperblade

I've been hitting the rev limiter at the end of the straight in 6th (209km/hr), into the hairpin in 5th and in 4th into the 1st Esses. One of the changes while the rear axle is being straightened is to change the diff ratio (current 4.55) to improve this situation. I just happened to have a 4.1 spare so have installed that as a "no cost" fix. Then an opportunity came up to buy a rebuilt gearbox with the same AP1 gearset but AP2 reduction gear (plus carbon syncros) since my gearbox has to be pulled apart anyway to replace the housing it seem like a good opportunity to switch and put my current gearbox back to original spec and sell it. It's almost too nice to cut the housing up on the new one, but has to be done. Here's the diff ratios vs gears vs tyre diameter Finally got the old box out to sort it out, the white paint here is the crack around the housing. Wasn't far away from having the whole thing fall off.

Yes i've heard Teretonga is a faster track. fast guys with turbo 2L or v8's might hit 220 to 240 at Ruapuna, not sure how that compares. Challenge of the J160 is that 6th gear ratio, have you thought about going the other way and aiming to use 1 to 5 (basically ignoring 6th)? I currently launch in 2nd and then use 3rd for hairpin (and could probably launch in 3rd if i wanted) then 4th for most of the infield, 5th for back straight and into hair pin and 6th only for main straight. (same when i ran the J160 box) I would have thought you would keep the 4.778 if your getting more power with the new engine eventually, although that 4.890 is a really nice middle ground.

Little bit complicated to tell, unfortunately my speedo still doesn't work over 120 km/hr so can't look at logs. Have to go on the videos and the shift light. Shift light is setup: Solid green at 8000rpm which is when i normally shift. Flashing red at 8500 rpm, and goes solid at 8800rpm. Rev limit is Hard Cut 9000 Soft Cut 8800 So on a good lap on the main straight the shift light is flashing red for quite a while (but i'm aware of the cut so normally ease back on the throttle as it starts flashing red). So probably around 205 km/hr normally I'm guessing. But I've hit the limiter coming up into the hairpin in 5th and easily hit it after the hairpin before 1st S's in 4th. And I'm not braking anywhere as late as I should be, or cornering like it should, so quite a bit left on the table.

Hah, your on point with your guess, I run 4.55 but going to 4.3 while the rear axle is being straightened (I'm hitting the limiter to early at the moment). I actually have a genuine Toyota 4.778 Crownwheel and pinion here (pinion is bent when the driveshaft let go at 200km/hr) which was brand new when i put it in and didn't have a whole lot of use, so sing out if you could use the crownwheel.

What ratio are you currently running?

That's a good point.

Could work, but would involve welding, something I would like to avoid if possible. Autobend can also waterjet up to 60 degree angle, so it's also tempting to try and make something that bolts together out of plates. It's also bloody tempting to just 3d print the bracket out of nylon/carbon fiber...

Na will need to be much stronger then that, lot of load/leverage when gear lever is being moved. I'm thinking 10mm plate across top and will work out the internals to suit.

Yeah I've looked at it every which way, and trying to mount from the bottom seems to be a world of hurt, hence why no further progress! I had discounted from the top, thinking clearance issues. But actually, I think I'm fine I have 30mm to play with from top of existing bolts And seems to be enough room up front of it for the bracket. Then I just have to deal with shifter location inside the housing which I think easier to deal with. It's an interesting effect, but whenever I see something in CAD it feels way bigger then real life, the rear housing in reality is not actually that big so I have more space around it then I thought. I'm using an Shining 3D Einstar (they are terrible at naming and have changed there naming schemes over the years), picked it up for a really good price second hand a few years back. This one: https://www.einstar.com/products/einstar

Mines set to 8 tho

Housing has been scanned and chopped up virtually to move the shifter as close to where I think it needs to be compared to old one (without taking the current gearbox out). Everything is still a very rough work in progress to get the overall shape of it (fillets etc will come later), and the intention is to get it 3d printed in metal rather then CNC as I think the machine costs would quickly add up. Currently I've got a flat base to mount the shifter too. The challenge with this bracket is all going to be in mounting the shifter housing itself to the bracket as it's all curves, and I'm not sure yet what space I have within the shifter for bolts. Getting better with the scanning, and super happy I managed to get it all aligned in 3d space really well, which has made things a lot easier.

Found a new rear housing and have 3d scanned it. Now to work out how to make a bolt on bracket to move the shifter forward. Bit hard as don't have the current gearbox out of the car, so will see if I can make something that has a some adjustment. Has to move a long way forward.

Yep if similar setup you have a good ballpark to work from. Most of the higher level race compounds from manufacters will be more aggressive on rotors. Some manufacturers give an idea on how they will wear rotors vs pads, but so hard to compare that stuff across brands.

I've tried to find a co efficient of friction graph for them and come up short every time. If they provided one it would be easy to see how they compared to other brands compounds. But without one your just hoping they will work for a particular setup which is an expensive lesson to find out they don't work.

So many people don't understand brake pads and just go off one temperature number, those graphs are so useful to working out how they behave!. Most brands have them it's just a matter of hunting around. Wilwood Ferodo I run W5 front and W3 rear on the starlet, originally ran W6 on front but because of trying to sort out overheating dropped to W5 which didn't help, so I probably should go back up to W6 again. I've had no issues with them and they work well when in the right temperature range.