Hyperblade

So I've been slowly chipping away at everything, with life getting in the way at times. Finally managed to get the extra baffle i needed for the sump, it's a Clockwise Motion FD2 baffle, meant to be one of the best and should be handle the gforces on the slicks i run. Of course even though the FD2 engine was initially based on the CL7 one, Honda decided to change the sump ever so slightly between versions, so had to modify the baffle to fit. Engine back out to fit it, clutch and flywheel all installed and rear main seal done while it was out as it saves possibly doing it later. Gearbox has new bearings throughout as the original ones at 140,000 k's had had a hard life. Engine and gearbox back together and all back in and shifter finally fitted. New fuel rail arrived, and could finally fit the FIC 775cc injectors (smallest with datasheet i could get for the cheapest price) and FPR to the mainfold and fitit all for the final time. Next was cooling, so I got some ali pipes bent up to a template I made, keeps it really nice and simple (and light) and the only joins are at the engine, radiator and water pump. The standard breather is on what is now the back of the engine, which is pointing at the firewall and would just be pain to route to. Also when racing best to have a good breather system so 2 10AN female fittings were added to a valve cover i stripped and then painted. Next up was the cabin wiring, a pretty significant job, and the final piece of the puzzle was the console. Actually quite challenging to make as it needs to be within reach when i'm strapped in and also handle the main cutoff switch which takes up a lot of room. And to get it looking half decent takes some planning. So first step mocking up position of switches to make sure I can reach them. I want to be able to easily maintain and diagnoses any issues with the wiring, so I then made a grame for everything to attach to. Worked out where to put the cutoff switch. Then wired it all up. I'm running some nice Deutch connectors at the rear so I can easily unplug them and check what the pins are doing with a multimeter. Final version all painted up But finally all fitted up Heres the engine bay at the moment Exhaust has been fitted for final time and I'm getting down to sorting out the last of the stuff in the engine bay (ducting, intake piping, catchcan etc)

I'm using the Deutsch HD30 bulkhead connectors and found them great. You can get a cheaper version HD20 which is composite instead of aluminum and they come in various mixtures of pin sizes max being 47. https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP242447SK https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP262447PK Total from msel would be $160incl But you will need the crimpers for the pins (but might be able to borrow some from someone) and personally I would recommend a mounting plate to stop them spinning. If you want to see an HD30 fitted in person just send me a pm.

Just saw your video Please go and check your seat mounting, your seat is moving around way to much for my liking Here's a recent example where a seat mounting broke, note that it was a low speed crash in the scheme of things and the belts could probably have been a little tighter... You can see the seat moving around prior, but a lot less then yours... https://www.facebook.com/sambushellmotorsport/posts/1987233984751634 Ended up with damaged ribs.

I own the car now, you can see where I took over from here It's still yellow and a Toyota (just)

If your looking at light engines, you should run the numbers on a bike engines turboed... Pick the right cc you can even stay in under 2L class

Thanks! The ducting takes a while, lots of planning, but i'm getting practiced at it now. Riveting makes it easy, no special tools required. I would love a bussmann box with more relays, I always seem to run out, but i prefer having everything centralized rather then have full amps going through a switch. I suppose PDM's are taking over that space, but they are still to expensive for number of outputs.

Exhaust in place for a trial fit, nice and compact. Engine side of the wiring loom done, except for the aftermarket sensors. Working on radiator/oil cooler ducting. Really happy with how they are coming out. Things are tight: So the Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold, Skunk2 Throttle Body and the Skunk2 Ultras street manifold spaces (to increase plemnum volume) don't fit together. So you end up hacking the throttle wheel to make it all fit. Speaking of Skunk2 brillance, here's how the intake manifold arrives to you straight from the casting. Bit of hand work done to remove the casting flaws they left in it, not something you expect to have to do for the price... Intake is location is challenging so the front grill is now one piece so I could get rid the some of the brackets. Fibreglass bonnet to save some weight and to do the new exit ducting out of it. Ecu mounted out of the way: Nothing worse then trying to work on wiring in a car with a cage, so made the relay/fuse box able to swing out

@Roman Honda Plenum Sizing FYI RBB (06-08 TSX) Part #: 17110-RBB-000 Weight: 6.2kg Throttle body opening: 60mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 31.0cm Runner width: 4.4cm (min) Runner width: 4.8cm (max) Individual runner volume: 492.5cc Total runner volume: 1970cc Plenum volume: 1650cc Total manifold volume: 3620cc RBC (CL7) (supposedly one of the best) Part #: 17100-RBC-J00 Weight: 4.5kg Throttle body opening: 62mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 18.5cm Runner width: 4.8cm (min) Runner width: 5.1cm (max) Individual runner volume: 270cc Total runner volume: 1080cc Plenum volume: 1720cc Total manifold volume: 2800cc RSP (FN2) Part #: 17100-RSP-G00 17101-RSP-G00 17102-RSP-G01 17103-RSP-G00 Weight: 5.6kg Throttle body opening: 64mm (no idle bypass) Runner Length *1: 25.5cm Runner Length *2: 19.5cm Runner width: 4.8cm (min) Runner width *1: 5.8cm (max) Runner width *2: 5.1cm (max) Individual runner volume: 295cc Individual velocity stack volume: 105cc Total runner volume *1: 1600cc Total runner volume *2: 1180cc Plenum volume *1: 2530cc Plenum volume *2: 2950cc Torque Chamber volume: 800cc Total manifold volume: 4930cc *1 with velocity stacks fitted *2 without velocity stacks fitted RRC (FD2) Part #: 17100-RRC-000 Weight: xx kg Throttle body opening: 64mm Runner Length: ~ 19.0cm Runner width: ~5.1cm (min) Runner width: ~5.3cm (max) Individual runner volume: xxxcc Total runner volume: xxxxcc Plenum volume: xxxxcc Total manifold volume: xxxxcc

Been a bit quiet lately on this, I've been doing a fair bit of work on planning the wiring design and then I had to order the bits. The design was fairly complicated because of all the sensors I added, and planning the bulkhead connectors. I ended up with 2 bulkhead connectors due to the size of wiring I needed to get through the firewall, with one handling most of the engine, and the other handling high power items like Fan and EWP. Bulkhead connectors mounted with a nice plate that locks them so they can't rotate. I put myself through the High Performance Academy wiring course to tidy up some of my skills and learn the right way to do things, well worth it and @ProZac was a great presenter. https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-motorsport-wiring/ My aim was to have a lightweight robust harness but that didn't use all the super expensive autosport connectors. And also no concentric twisting as that just adds more weight with filler wires. So Tefzel wiring and SE28(DR25 Copy) Heatshrink all round. I'm really happy with how the first harness turned out. The 2nd one is a bit more complicated (only half the wires)... Unfortunately I found out the Deutsch pin removal tools I got with my crimping kit shouldn't be used with the HD30 connectors as it fucks the locking tabs (bends them down to far). The tools I used were these metal ones. Where as the official ones are plastic. Of course I only found out after putting in the last pins which didn't want to stay put. I had an attempt at pulling the HD30 connector apart, and can confidently now say that you shouldn't attempt it as it's not designed to to be disassembled, I ended up braking the outer housing removing the inner pieces. But it did give me a good look at how they are designed, you would have to be very skilled to be able to fix the locking tabs in place, would need a magnifying glass and long very thin pick.

Just for everyone else following along. Here's Jamie's engine on dyno.

Picture heavy post follows: On to the finishing off the brake lines. Redone the pedal box piping so I can add some brake pressure sensors at a later stage, a lot easier to do it now then once it's installed. However it's a hell of a job fitting everything in, without the access port from the engine bay it would be impossible to get it as clean as I did. All lines are being run in the cabin to keep a nice clean look. Lines in wheel wells given some protection. Move the reservoirs which were remote to being directly on the master cylinders, saved 500g worth of hoses/fittings by doing so. Finally have a reason to add some honda performance parts... Fuel lines finished up, just waiting on a length of hardline for inside the cabin. Waiting on fittings to arrive before I can secure the pipes. TracTuff Timing Chain Baffle plate added to stop oil going up into the timing chain. Still waiting on my other baffle to be available. Engine back in the hole (will come out again) so I can work out positioning of clutch bulkhead fitting and wiring fittings. Added some Radlok fittings for the alternator and starter wires, really cool connectors, can rotate 360 degrees while attached. Mounted the EWP to the engine, very tight all around.

Set of TRD headers on TM for the low price of $1000... Claims 7.4kW(10ps) improvement... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2814713140

So rust all repaired and on to fitting everything back together, a much more fun job. Rear diff painted, and new brake lines run. With the diff moved back, brake line won't reach chassis, so moved it to exit internally (all lines will be running inside the car) New feed and return lines run through to cabin from surge tank, using hardlines for as much as possible due to cost/weight savings. Tapped the head for the water fitting and blanked it off as I don't need it for my setup, saved 120g by chopping it in half...

As Spencer said their are so many different designs/lengths for the K20/24 manifolds. I agree with him that some of this is for different types (weight etc) of cars. I also think a lot of it is packaging in the engine bay. I.e the Euro has a bigger bay so can fit in longer runners. But same manifold won't fit in Integra without a bit of chopping, replacement. Also Honda doesn't just stick with what they know, they do try and optimise for each engine/car combo. i.e the FD2 has a range of changes just for 5HP. The American market is interesting, a lot of people are really trying to do everything on the cheap, so naturally that means it's cheaper to get a second hand manifold off a different car. So you have these massive debates on which stock manifold is better. Same with headers, PLM is the greatest for HP (supposedly), but in reality that's only because of the price of it, when in actual fact it's pretty average all round. They are always after bolt on horsepower, with no tuning, which they get away with because of the factory wideband O2 sensor. They seem to be very reluctant to actually tune a car probably because most don't have aftermarket ECU's or can't afford them. So for Quad Throttles you have the issue they are are fucking expensive for what they are, and they also don't fit in easily with a good air filter (front wheel drive life), so it's a lot harder to justify. Toyota guys are lucky as they can use the cheap 4AGE ones ($200), but if they were paying $500-$1000 for a set then it becomes a vastly different proposition. The other side is Honda manifolds are actually really well designed, so it's not a massive gain, plus of course requires an aftermarket computer for ITBs. So all round it gets to hard/expensive for most of them. I've been trying to find information on Honda K20a Plenum sizing, and have came up with fuck all, I can space my new one out to increase it and maybe? get more HP, but I can't find any data anywhere on how big to go, and the difference it would have on the K20a which is really frustrating.

Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing? Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is??? I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their...