Hurmeez

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Hurmeez last won the day on June 28

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About Hurmeez

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  1. I started with a plate roughly the right size with a bit to spare. Put a fold in it to form a nice big flange and used the bead roller to start forming the dimple that was in the original panel. Put a bit more shape into the dimple and started to trim it to size. Then I cut out the rotten part leaving plenty of extra material to spare. I decided to drill out my nice new spot welds and remove that extra little piece of original material since I'm cutting out everything attached to it too. In hindsight I should have drilled them from the other side but oh well, I can fill them up later. I continued trimming and fiddling until it fit nicely and clamped up. So I zapped it in.I didn't tack the front edge ahead of the dimple because I'm replacing all the steel forward of there anyway later on. That's today's progress so far. I'll probably head back out in a bit and form up the other side too.
  2. The guard was being a real bitch and took up almost all of yesterday so I didn't take many photos because I was a pretty pissed off with it by the end. Ultimately though, it was done and fitted good and just take my word for it. Today on the other hand, was win after win. I started by taking the clamps off the front panel and pulling it of. This is what I saw: The first thing I wanted to tackle was to pull the old slam panel off to start rebuilding all the mounting flanges. That will take some stiffness out of the inner wings so to prevent them from flapping about I chose to put some bracing in. They pick up on the new guard mounting nuts and I welded them in the center. Being 2mm flat bar they're not super heavy but the way I've got them crossed over should mean any flex results in tension being put on the brace rather than compression. In this way they should be plenty strong enough. In theory anyway. Then I moved on to removing the slam panel. On the right you can see where I tried to use my spot weld drill before I got frustrated and used the grinder to somewhat mutilate it and get rid of the crappy mig welds. Then on the left this continued until I tried using the spot weld drill again. This was much more successful after I realised what a miracle sharpened drill bits are. I ran it over the grinding wheel and it was magic the way the panels just popped apart. Once I had it off I was greeted by a rusty mess which I hit with the wire wheel to see what I had to deal with. This was that:Not terrible but massive room for improvement. Which is coming up...
  3. That sounds a lot better actually. It means I can spend more on go fast parts for the motor.
  4. It was exactly the same process here. I opted to rosette weld the back part of each one with the mig because the thicknesses were adding up here and it was very difficult to get in behind to clean the surface which the spot welder really needs to function. So I punched the holes, clamped it up, Welded it (this is the other side because I forgot to take a photo of this side) And ground it back nicely.You can also see the stitches I did to join it to the cowl. And this is the final product. I didn't bother taking a photo of the shut lines because they would just look exactly the same as all the other shut line photos I've already put up but rest assured they look good. I also finished extending the bottom flanges ready for some riv-nuts tomorrow (why do I bother saying that anymore?).
  5. So plans changed of course. I swear someone is determined to stop me from touching my front panel. Instead I got both guards so very close to done. I took them to a panel beater friend who let me borrow his spot welder to weld the mounting flanges to their corresponding positions. Firstly I ground away the paint and shit where the welds were going to go and added a bunch more clecos to stop anything from moving in the trip to the shop. Then I pulled it all apart and put some weld through primer on the surfaces that I wouldn't be able to access once the welds were done. Then I did all the spots. It was a bit of a workout because the welder is awkward and heavy but I got it done pretty well. Sweet. Now to take the welder home to do the inner guard halves of the flanges.
  6. I also managed to get the bottom front flange extension on the front panel started tonight. This is before I did anything: Then I clamped up a piece of sheet well oversize to held keep the local heat and distortion down, And fully welded it up. I also ground it back afterwards. Tomorrow I can finish this off and throw some riv nuts in it and the rear bottom mount and the guard will be done. That means tomorrow I can finally start tearing into the front panel mounting situation. I've been waiting for this for months. Looking forward to it.
  7. I used the same method as the first set to stretch and shrink the edge of the outer flange to make it fit the inner flange. Then I put some locating bolts in the riv nuts and bolted and clamped the guard and flange into place to find where to drill the holes for the top mounting bolts. I quickly realised this wouldn't work because the head of the locating bolts were too thick and were holding everything in the wrong spot. So I pulled it off and used the original flange to transfer the hole positions over to the new flange. Then I skipped some steps and repeated for both sides and there you go, two guards bolted up with sexy new drip rails. Perfect, that'll keep the wetness to where it should be; the passenger's seat.
  8. Lot's of photos today. Finally. I went to the engineering shop and got my sheet sliced with the guillotine and folded up in the sheet metal brake. They all worked out perfectly except the very first one. I didn't clamp it down properly while I was doing a particularly skinny fold and it sort of just pushed the sheet back into the brake in the center so only the outer corners actually got bent up. Unfortunately because of how I did it I couldn't try to make this fold again so I had to go back to plan A. The boring and tedious method. So I made myself a very specialised tool. It might look like a piece of steel with a slot cut in it but that's because that is exactly what it is. I cut the slot and faced it with the lathe to make it close enough to 5mm deep and then used it to slowly tweak up the channel. Then I finished it with a piece of box section clamped in place to make it nice and straight and smooth. And here are the finished results. Now I just have to start forming them to fit the inner guard mounting flange.
  9. Off topic post and very wordy to prepare yourselves, but I've been thinking about my suspension. Here is the current set up that I've got for it.They're stock Mk 2 Escort struts with new Munroe (I think) inserts and new bearings. I've known for a while that I'm going to need to buy new springs for them because the current ones have been cut down hard and rattle around in the strut when they're under no load which I know won't pass a cert. However, new springs are just over $300. And I know I eventually want to go to coilover fronts which will need their own cert. So I can either get new lower springs and cert them, then buy coilovers and get a cert again for them, or I could skip a whole step and go straight to the coilovers. That's what I've decided to do at this point. It could be near a grand for the ones I'm looking at so far but before I pull the trigger I wanted to ask you guys if you have any experience with doing a coilover conversion on a Mk 2 escort. Is it worth trying to find some bilstein struts and doing the conversion with the threaded tubes or buying a fully done unit. From what I can see it looks no cheaper to do the fab work myself and it would save a hell of a lot of work to buy them premade. But like I said, what do you guys reckon? Any advice would be awesome.
  10. I didn't take many photos today because it takes way longer and I wanted to forge ahead and get this guard knocked over. That said I did get a few. I started by getting the rear flange all done and bolted up.The very bottom bolt is different because the others were too long to fit. Then I shifted to the top flange.My camera try is awful in the low light but you get the picture. I wanted to put a bit more detail into the front mount though. So, here it is before I started: Then I measured and marked the hole positions on the guard side flange and drilled them at 3mm. I then clamped it up and transferred the positions with a scribe. Then I thought why bother and just drilled through both panels with a 7mm drill which is the right size for the guard side of the flange but still too small for the black panel side. So I pulled the guard off and opened the holes in the front panel out to the riv-nut size and put some in. Then the guard goes back on again and bolts up to double check everything. Perfect. That's all for today. Tomorrow I'll finish the bottom flange on the front but it'll be a busy day. I realised I'm going to be one short on the riv-nuts so I'll have to go and grab some more tomorrow. I also changed my mind about the top mounting flange. As they sit right now they are completely flat and when it rains the water is going to run down the gap and straight into the engine bay. Obviously that's not the end of the world but OEM it would have had a rain channel to stop this and it's really not difficult to add in. I could tweak up the edge of the flange with a small tool and work my way along slowly adding more and more angle but I won't for two reasons. 1 its pain in the ass and takes forever and 2 it will make my nice bolts look off center on the flange. This is obviously completely unacceptable (sarcasm) so I'm going to fold up two new flange sections with the channel as part of them. Also I need to go and fold up some new sections at the engineering shop anyway for another part of the front panel mounting panel process so I might as well. So that's tomorrows plan then. Can't wait.
  11. I did think about that but I figured it would be easier to build it up with a small amount of bog rather than risk making big holes as I tend to do with the mig. It's still an option though if the bog doesn't work out.
  12. Not much of an update but I got some stuff done yesterday. I managed to wrestle the guard into a much more acceptable gap by brute strength and big old vice grips so I drilled some holes and stuck some clecos in there to hold it. You can see the improvement.It's still not perfect but a small line of bog down each edge should close it up nicely. I also fully welded the mounting flange up and ground it back to look somewhat presentable. Next job is to work on fully welding the front flanges up before I can get onto riv-nutting.
  13. With the rust kill dry I sprayed a quick top coat on to seal it all up before I finished rolling the edge over.The profile from the other side turned out really well too. Then I clamped it on the car as best I could to see how the gap looked. It's really not stellar and I'm going to keep working on it but it's looking like it's going to be a real mission. The gap at the top is pretty good but it widens out at the bottom. That said, the bonnet shut line and front panel are all damn near perfect, along with all the other gaps around the door, so I'm at a loss. I think the main issue it that the repro sill and A pillar aren't in exactly the right place but it would be such a major mission to sort that there's no way in hell I'm pulling them off again. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Tomorrow's job is to fully weld the rear mounting flange up after I tacked it on again today. Then possibly start working on putting some rivnuts where they need to be and bolting it all up, but that might be a push. Onward and upward.
  14. Thanks mate. I never expected to have to do this much when we first got it but I'm enjoying it and it'll just make it all the more of an accomplishment when I do get it on the road.
  15. I went to the paint shop while I waited for the rust kill to dry because we're running low on primer. It's funny how there are the signs saying they're banned from selling spray paint to anyone under 18 and yet when I ask for a can of primer they happily hand it over to a minor without batting an eye. I suppose no young ruffian is going to ask for expensive primer to go tagging... Anyway, I came home and slapped some paint over the now dry rust kill. I painted the top part where welding from the skin may come through with weld through primer to keep the weld good quality. Well in theory anyway.It'll probably all melt off but it should certainly prevent some rusting in the future. Looks nice at the very least. Then it was on to trimming up the skin patch. First I clamped it in and marked it up. Then clamped again and tacked. Fully welded and tickled the admittedly very minor warps back to straight Finally I started to fold the edge over part way before spraying this side down with rust kill. So it's another two hour wait before I go back out to put a top coat on and finish folding the lip over. I'm happy. Good progress being made.