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Hurmeez last won the day on June 28 2017

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About Hurmeez

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  1. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    That's weird cause I measured it roughly with a ruler after you said and it looks like the pitch is 1.25 to me. I counted ten threads and it was 12.5 mm on the rule so I would think that means 1.25. In any case, I haven't ordered the bolts yet so no big deal. Thanks for chasing me up though.
  2. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Yeah I was having issues with that one too but I came up with what I think is a very cunning work-around. All will be revealed in good time
  3. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Brilliant! That's exactly what I needed. As I said, absolute legends
  4. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Yeah that was my plan to use the bolts from the back too. Thanks for checking.
  5. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    A quick update not big enough for the main thread. I'm working 13 ten hour days in a row with one day off for a couple of months so I'm not getting heaps of work done, however, I am getting closer to getting my adapter plate finalised after not worrying about it for a good while. However, I'm hitting a problem. I can't get countersunk bolts to fit the V6 bellhousing from any of my local suppliers and I'm struggling to find any online. @yoeddynz , @Transom, you guys don't happen to remember either where you got yours from, or the size and pitch of the bolts so I can hopefully better my google-fu? You'd be even more legendary if you could. Also exciting developments on the diff situation but I'll leave that for a full update later on .
  6. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    How much did you actually shorten it by? I'm trying to find the R31s width online but I'm finding anywhere from 1410mm to 1470mm so I'm not completely sure how much it will need cutting.
  7. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    I suppose that would be an option but I think I may run into an issue with the bearing retainer access holes. I probably could fit another stud in there in between the two but I'd be worried about how close it would be and the strength (or lack thereof) it might have. I don't think you are allowed to weld up the holes because it screws the heat treatment right?
  8. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    I finally got around to putting in the brace between the chassis rail and the firewall on the passenger's side. I did the driver's side ages ago but for some reason, I always found something else to do until now. I'm happier with this side. It turned out better than the first try. Next, I started working on the rear engine mounts (also known as gearbox mounts). I figured since I don't have my adapter plate yet, I can't make the front engine mounts. Without it I can't be certain of where the engine and gearbox sit relative to each other so any mounts I make with my makeshift MDF plate may not line up properly when it put the steel one in. However, I can make the gearbox mounts because I do know where that will sit relative to the hole in the tunnel. So that was my next move. I used the Turbo Yoda method to hang the gearbox while I built the mount for it. This lets me hang around underneath the box as much as I want without running into something holding it up from the bottom. Also, thanks to the threads, I could raise or lower the box as much as I wanted with plenty of precision to align everything properly. I set the angle of the engine to be the same as the stock crossflow in dad's car. This means I don't have to worry about the driveshaft angles being out on the U-joints. From here on the photos start to get a bit spotty because I just had my head down and completely forgot to take enough photos. Oh well. Anyway, I started but making a mount to pick up the points used to mount the black bit below the output shaft in this photo: (That's not my photo because I forgot) It is some sort of steel block rubber mounted to the trans but not mounted to anything else. Possibly some sort of vibration dampener. Who knows. Anyway, I used it as a template to make a similar plate out of 5 or 6mm steel plate (I forget which), which also has mounting points for an off the shelf mount. Something like this: I reused the press in studs from the original mount but cut the tops off and welded them in with lots and lots of amps on the TIG. Then I made it pretty. I used captive nuts rather than tapping the plate, mostly because we only have a bottom tap in the pitch I want and I couldn't get the bastard to start. So nuts it is. What are the nuts for you ask? They bolt to an off the shelf, out of focus powerglide trans mount like this: It's nice and low profile (and cheap) and will fit really well. Here is the whole assembly in place. Next I started on the car side of the mounts. I wanted to more or less copy the design that the factory used. These are a couple of boxes that are welded to the tunnel with some tapped doubler plates behind the mounting surface. The advantage of doing it this way is that there are no penetrations in the floor, so fewer opportunities for water to enter and start causing rust. Also, bolts sticking through the floor just suck in general. So it started with a cardboard template to get the shape right, then I started to transfer it to some 2mm sheet (the same as the factory mounts). Then I made the doubler plate out of 10mm plate. I managed to get the tap to start this time so I made a real nice job of them. Then I welded them in place. This was great fun because it was the hottest I've ever run the welder and laying the fillets in there just felt fantastic. Finally, I fully welded the seams and bent the flanges over. This is it compared to the original. Pretty good I reckon. Then I tacked them in and completely forgot to take any photos. Yay!! I'm planning on putting the car on a rotisserie to stitch weld the chassis rails so I'll fully weld them then. For now though, I'll just leave them tacked; I really hate welding on my back. Finally after all that, I started on the crossmember itself. Starting with a cardboard template in terrible lighting. Of course. Then I started to transfer it to a piece of box section I picked out which happened to fit the powerglide mount spot on. And then I forgot to take photos while I cut it out and bent it to shape. In any case, take my word for it that I did. And here it how it turned out: You'll notice the gearbox looks a bit crooked. It is actually clocked approximately 2.5 degrees clockwise relative to the car from this perspective, and offset to the passenger's side by about 10mm, all for a very good reason. I'll go into that later on. I still need to cut some of the green off the ends, drill the powerglide mount holes, and finish weld the joins. Other than that, it's pretty good. It's 3mm plate so I don't think it will need gussets between the bottom and the mounting flanges, though I might do it anyway later on. We'll see. In other news, I've been looking into diff upgrade options for a while now and I think I may have come across a very viable deal. I was lookinginto a hilux diff, but they proved to be harder to find than I expected. They also don't seem to have many options for decent crusing ratios, as well as options to easily (read cheaply) convert to four stud, which I really want to keep for my Cheviot Turbos. So instead what I've found is an R31 Skyline diff nearby for $150. I saw that @Rhubarb77 had used one in his turbo Pinto MkII so I know it can be shortened to fit and will obviously hold over 300hp easily (which might be part of future plans). It's four stud already, and I can get a bolt in LSD 3.54:1 center section from the wreckers down the road for another $150 or so. Those are the positives. The negatives are as follows: It has no brakes at the moment, disks or calipers, and the stud pattern is 4x114.8 rather than my mag's 4x108. I have thought that I could put the rears in a mill and slot the holes slightly to fit but I don't know how well that would work. Does anyone else have any experience in this sort of area? Should I pull the trigger and buy the diff or do I have better options? Let me hear your suggestions or comments here: Cheers
  9. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Yeah they are Prelude seats. I'm not a massive fan of the weird headrest setup they have but I have a plan for that and they were free, so I can't complain.
  10. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Brilliant. Gotta love bureaucracy don't you?
  11. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Now that the tunnel was finalised I could finally get to welding in the seat mounting boxes. You'll recall way back in October of 2016 I folded up some channels and made them fit in place of the old seat boxes. Something like this: I held off welding them in at the time because I thought I would have to get a cert man to come and have a look at them before I could. It turns out a simple email with photos was enough to make him happy but in retrospect, I am very happy I held off. If I had welded them in it would have been a nightmare doing the tunnel modifications. As it was, it was still a bit of a mish but that made it a lot easier. Now though, the profile on the inside end of each box doesn't fit the new tunnel, so I had to modify them to make them fit the new tunnel shape. That done, I wire-brushed and thoroughly cleaned the floor that would be underneath the box, as well as the underside of the box itself, then painted both with a couple of coats of Hammerite. I made sure the steel directly underneath where I was going to weld had no paint on it before I went around the edges with some weld through primer. That done, I got it tacked in place and checked the fit with the seat. Happy with that, I marked and tacked where I wanted each stitch weld to go, then fully welded it in. Meanwhile I had been doing all the same processes to the rear seat mounts too: They shouldn't be going anywhere soon. Then it was a case of repeating everything once more on the other side. I think I'm finally getting the hang of the MIG now too. I made some pretty good looking welds on these bits; one I'm particularly proud of: Pretty shit photo but you get the idea. Then, of course, it would be rude not to bolt the seats in and make broom broom noises. While I was in there I mocked the rear seat up to see how it would fit with the new seats. With both seats at the back of their travels, this is the leg room you get in the back. Doesn't look too bad. Nevermind, it sucks ass. It probably wouldn't be too bad for short trips but bugger driving to Auckland like that. Oh well, I'm not going to be sitting back there so who cares? Also had a bit of a premonition. Look how much crap you can fit in the back! After sitting in it for a while, I couldn't help myself and just had to bolt the door on to hang my arm out the window. Note my false ground level with the bucket and wood. Feels pretty good to get into and out of. Now I can start working on engine mounts or something. It's all feeling a lot closer now.
  12. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    I always seem to read back over my previous post and find that I mention something about finishing something in the next few days. Then I check the date and realise it was over a month ago. Woops. Not long after I posted the last update I had to take two weeks to turn this: Into this: Some muppet (me) ran out of talent on a wet intersection and made an adjustment to a nearby fence. So I spent a while sorting all that out before finally getting back to what matters. Picking back up on the brace, I used some paper to make templates of the large flat panels that Would be needed to weld it all to the floor. I can't believe it has taken me this long to figure out that using magnets instead of tape in these situations is such a good idea, but, there you go. Then it's the standard procedure of tracing that onto steel and gluing it all together. And offer it up to check the fit. The camera angle makes it look a bit crooked but it's pretty good in reality. I gave all the welds a good clean up then coated it in a couple of good thick layers of Hammerite. I initially intended to use POR15 for this but the local shop has stopped supplying it for whatever reason and the guy said this was just as gooder so I figured it's better than nothing. Here's a comparison shot between the factory brace and my version. Note that I sprayed weld through primer everywhere that it was appropriate in addition to the heavy duty rust preventative. I've had issues in the past with this particular primer making for a spitty farty weld, so I cleaned off all the actual spots where the welds would be. As it turns out, I probably didn't need to but it did make for a lovely weld. Which you can marvel at here: It really was such a nice change to be welding good new steel to steel rather than burning holes in thin factory stuff all the time. And with that, I am finally back to where I was five months ago. Well with a much larger tunnel now but you get what I mean.
  13. Very cool car man. I'm glad you're leaving it as is for now, it looks perfect just the way it is.
  14. Yeah makes sense. The hardest but for me is as soon as it makes any sort of hole it just instantly runs away on you and turns to shit. Then it's all about trying to fill holes in old thin English tin and that's never fun.