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About tomble

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  1. I did say things would slow down First target in my sights has been to fix up the tank and its bits and bobs, and get the rear side of the fuel system 100% sorted. The tank has surface rust inside, and a fair bit of deposited rust from the pickup tubing and gauge level rusting away. Most people I talked to told me not to worry about it, just clean it out and be done with it, but... that just doesn't sit well with me. Rust must perish! My tool for the job is a POR-15 tank sealing kit. There's a bunch of guides online but they all seem to differ somewhat or have missing bits o
  2. Old thread but I was quoted 2k for shell + primer, up to 3k if including doors panels etc. "There are a lot of factors". This is in upper hutt.
  3. Eyeballing it fails again. I'll make sure to set it all back up right when I start putting it back together
  4. It's rosey and definitely doesn't smell of toast. It's also very full, all the way to the top of the 'hot' mark when cold (wasn't me!)
  5. I followed this guide, sans checking the actual timing (no light). It feels like it's revving quite high, I might take it for another jaunt to get some more concrete info
  6. It's a strong possibility, I'd prefer manual. This initial resto has enough on my plate already though so it'll be down the line if it happens. Manual is also easier to convert to electric if that happens to become a priority at some point....
  7. Thank you so much, I'm glad babbyfaces like us can give a bunch of experienced car wranglers entertainment To think of all the stuff i've learned since we bought this at the end of october.
  8. Partner is down so we took it out for a short legal drive on private roads. I'm not sure what to point at, but it took a bit of pedal for it to get into second gear (as a reminder it is an auto) - so for a while it just sounded like a very taxed engine moving at 15km/h. I didn't push it very hard because while the brakes seem fine I wasn't willing to find out how good they'd be if I really needed to stop in a hurry. We were brave enough to take it down a short steep hill section of private road and it reaaaally struggled to get back up it at about 5km/h (but fortunately did ':D).
  9. Hmm thanks. That's annoying - I thought I got the EFI hose at supercheap and the guy was like yeah mate these clips are what you want. That was some expensive kit too. I'll have to re-do it with the proper stuff at the other end of the tunnel I guess, sigh.
  10. I got away with the cut off tool. Not too much drama and air tools are fun (I later moved the clamps a little closer to the ends) But when it came time to re-assemble the banjo onto the pump, I noticed that there weren't any crush washers previously. @ProZac confirmed that there should be some and that the (checks notes) "pulsation dampener" side's washer has some cutout bits to allow fuel to flow out of the dampener and into the banjo fitting, I had some extra copper washers that were large enough but didn't have these cutouts: It should look kind of
  11. So of the three high pressure fuel hoses it looks like two have been munted over the years. This time it's the one at the rear that connects the fuel pump to the metal fuel line running to the front, and it has two holes in it. As the video above shows these holes do a fantastic job of high-pressure sprinkling fuel all over the show. It even got into the wiring sheath on the fuel pump. Won't have to pull those weeds for a while at least. The good news is the L&P bracket is holding up great, Tom 1 Mitsubishi 0. Rather than head over to hydratech again I decided to gi
  12. I'll have to look into fuel cells then. Currently not restored, I've been asking around and gotten some quotes of between $150~ and $1100 for varying levels of quality. Currently I'm leaning towards going full circle and doing it myself with a POR-15 kit... I've got a leak candidate fix in place as of yesterday evening so this morning I'll be giving that a go
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