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tomble

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  1. I've been putting off touching the rear hubs because they've been unkind to me. The axle nut is torqued down to stupid foot-libs and I was really struggling to get it off. Max send on impact wrench, the pair of us with crowbar and breaker bar in various strange configurations and our full body weights, I even drilled four holes into the bench to slot the hub into which wasn't useful. For some reason I waited till the end to try the vise, but when I did it worked second try. Even then I had to find the right angle as the breaker bar threatened to tear the bench down (and I don't trust the person that engineered it). Then I put my little gear puller into use once again, followed up by a rubber mallet at full send when it reached its max travel (manual says "tap it out", yeah right). There's what I now know is a "blind" bearing that has no purchase on any side of it. The manual says to use a blind bearing puller, which involves using a special tool to punch into the bearings then each lever in the puller is inserted then turned 90 degrees to pull against the outer and inner races simultaneously. It costs $1500. So I instead went to the internet for advice. Someone managed by removing the bearing retainer then smooshing all balls against one side to be able to knock the outer race free, then cut the inner race off. They also said "good luck" if that retainer was metal and not the more modern plastic style. Feck. But it was a good start so I somewhat carefully just took to the bearing with a variety of chisels, punches, drill bits and screwdrivers in an attempt to mangle the race free. In hindsight I had no chance of succeeding but no harm done. What worked: I took a dremel to the outer race. The geometry didn't let me cut all the way through it but some more "experimentation" with a chisel revealed that the remainder of the race split very easily with a few taps! I dremel'd the other side, and a single tap opened it up. The retainer and balls then slid/fell right out. Again the dremel geometry wasn't favourable to completely cutting the inner race but I was hopeful. I cut as much as I could without risking cutting into the permanent bits. This time instead of splitting entirely, the cut made a perfect purchase point for the chisel to work the inner race free such that I could just slide it off by hand. Yay! What was hours of faff turned into minutes for the second hub now that I knew what I was doing. Then I clawed all the grease out of the hubs like Pooh with a honey pot and gave it all a solid parts wash, ready to mask up once it dries. Phew!
  2. I've heard that the auto starion has a different diff ratio to normal so while I had it open I measured it - 3.909. I also dragged the old one out and got it open, but it's also 3.909. I dunno, maybe the new LSD is from an auto too... but I'm glad I don't have to think too hard about what effects the swap will have! As there are negative quantities of new gaskets for starions out there, and the interwebs seems fine with just gasket maker for this application, I decided to go that route. Break cleaner'd all the gasket surfaces and waited to dry. Applied a smooth continuous bead of permatex ultra black that would make any professional cry with joy (or just cry). Gently lower onto the diff and hand tighten a bunch of crappily passivated bolts (I'll post about my electroplating efforts later... still nailing it down!). After an hour, twerked down in a chris fix pattern. I also schmoo'd a bead around the breather and attached it. The breather used to have a little ring that is meant to be lubed up and pushed through to hold it from the other side, but that tore off in moments... so it's just the gasket maker holding it in right now. I've given it a few solid tugs and it seems okay but I can try again with the old diff's breather if I have to in the future. And hey while I'm here... greased up the splines on the torque tube and its bolts and connected it all up. I also torqued up the drain bolt because I know I'd forget. There's not enough purchase on the diff right now to be able to torque it down easily so I just left future Tom a note. That's one more complete thing I can store and ignore!
  3. Yeah his email bounced so I called directly and got him. You guys are right, he's a sweetie. He said that yep Autolign does them (or at least a decade ago), just got a response from Autolign this morning confirming that their Auckland unit does this sort of thing and that I can drop them off at Petone Won't get a quote until they're at Auckland, but I think the path for me now is to get the rear struts modified for version 1.0 of the resto.
  4. I'll flick him an email - hopefully whitepages isn't out of date / he checks them. Otherwise I'll give him a call later Yeah that's what I figured, but Barry told me:
  5. I've seen these guys around, have now chucked them an email...
  6. On the fronts yes, the backs are less obvious, @ProZacreckons it's crimped Thank you... I don't think there's avoiding certification, correct me if I'm wrong but any mods to suspension (even to just take replaceable inserts) needs cert right? D2/Ksport/XYZ are around $2.5k? and have Starion-specific rears, but I'd want to go a notch above that, rather not just get the cheapies.
  7. My Starion has sealed rear shocks that can't be bought anymore, and they're absolutely toast. I know of at least one US shop that'll take them and mod them to accept aftermarket strut inserts, I assume there'll be places in NZ up to the task - any recommendations? I'm in Welly but no problems shipping them to where they need to be. My other option is to get coilovers - but not too keen on getting ebay specials. Fortune Auto was recommended to me but they're only keen on modifying my front spindles, they're not interested in trying to mod the rear. I'm pretty new to all of this so guidance is most welcome <3 Pix of struts (rear is on right). The front struts annoyingly have multiple options (they have replaceable inserts and people are happy to weld them :\). It's just these rears that are doing me in... And where they attach to the knuckles...
  8. A low tow truck was probably overkill but it made it easier to lift on and off. Now to watch the contents of my bank account get Thanos'd. The'll first be doing the repairs and getting them certified, then we'll decide where to go from there. I feel a kick up the bum to get the rest of the panels and doors blasted.
  9. Haha glad to have cleared it up then :). Shipping was totally painless, nobody confiscated my cocaine. Now I'm just trying to actually nail down the plating itself lol
  10. What sort of amps did you find works best for bolts?
  11. Jane kits ships to NZ and sells gold bright chromate (among others). You just need to contact them directly w/ address as they have to get the shipping quote manually.
  12. Next: the diff! As with the torque tube, parts wash everything thoroughly to remove any grit... and any dirt and stuff that may have accumulated, and old oil. Also a bunch of scraping to get rid of the remnants of old masking tape and over-powder. The tap set comes out to clean up the threads as well. Really glad I did because a lot of crap came out of those threads! Now they're all nice and shiny. I decided not to mess with the pinion or core thingy. The bearings feel okay, and cross-referencing pix from the internet didn't raise any red flags for tooth or race wear so I'm going to test what I can but work under the general assumption that what I've bought is fine "for now". So, lube up the pinion's splines with grease and in she goes. I'm making sure to lube everything up with the new gear oil as well. Babby's first oil seal . Given that I do have new races to install in the hubs I invested in a bearing and race set which makes tapping these in easy. This is NOS... I actually have two sets as I accidentally some from rockauto as well. And finish off the exterior side with the spliney cog thing and its washer and nut. I was foolish during disassembly and didn't mark where the spliney cog thing mated with the pinion, but fortunately someone else had in the past and it was still visible I have no idea how to torque this down either. The guy from the guide I followed hacked his old torque tube up and welded it into a tool for holding the splines in place. I do have a spare as well but I'd rather not mess it up. I'll look into this later. Next up I checked the pinion runout. My approach here is to get 'good enough' to square and if I measure really close to the limit, figure out a better angle. The limit is 0.1~mm, I measured 0.05mm on both the smooth part and on the teeth, moving on! Now for the core thingy. Like an absolute noob I didn't mark which side anything came from. At least I didn't disassemble any of the internals! Everything measures up identically on each side except for these two shims. Oh well, 50% chance of getting it right. Getting the core in is an absolute pain in the arse as it's so heavy and I have to somehow hold the shims and races onto the core as it goes in, while also wrestling the angled races wanting to slide off. I may have broken skin. In the end I managed to do it by holding each entry of the core by two very sore fingers, getting it into place with as low a drop as possible, then pulling my fingers out like the dickens. Then I softly tapped the shims into their proper place while malletting the core until it seated properly. Then the bearing caps go in. Again, no idea which side is which - but fortunately one of four bolts was a little hesitant to thread in with my first attempt yet was smooth when the caps were swapped around so another win from lady luck. Okay so here goes, did I win the 50% lottery? Runout is okay. 0.02mm and the limit is 0.05mm. ... arse. The backlash is around 0.32mm :(. It should be 0.12 to 0.17~! I'm okay with bending the rules a little but that's an insane backlash. Is my diff toast? Can I fix it? Ugh. A quick google tells me that this is fixable, it just means I need to have the core closer to the pinion. Shims the wrong way around? Cue... removing the caps and malleting (with difficulty) the core back out. Yay, the thicker shim is on the pinion side! Reassembled with the shims swapped (and yet more pain) and... it's good! 0.12mm backlash. I'll take it! The teeth have already been schmoo'd in the past. I can't see any real wear pattern on the teeth themselves, I didn't disassemble the internals, and I don't have any schmoo, so I'm going to go ahead and say "yes this is probably fine moving on". Twerk the caps down. This is really difficult without a stand. Install the drive shaft oil seals. And some NOS plugs - finger tight for now And then clean up and smoosh the breather thingy on to the cover. Chuck some glad wrap on the exposed parts to keep crap out and it almost looks like I know what I'm doing! All that's left is to install the cover. But the old crusty bolts are gross... I'm going to have to do something about them...
  13. Past Tom got feck all pictures of this but I also reassembled the torque tube. This was a lot easier; parts wash everything to make sure there's no grit left over, make sure it's all dry, grease everything up just in case, install the new bearing, gussy up the old snap ring and lego it all together in reverse. I have no idea how to properly torque this nut down... it might have to happen once everything's back on the car!
  14. So now I can actually start reassembling stuff. Exciting! First I have some u-joints to install into the drive shaft. I might be going a bit OCD on some of this stuff, but one of the old ones was a bit hard to rotate so this was worthwhile at least. It's a bit nerve wracking taking a hammer to new/restored parts but it went fairly smoothly. The only wrinkle was that after fully installing, the joint was stiff and not easy to rotate. Fortunately this was easy to figure out, some of the uninstalling or installing hammer/visework must have bent the flanges outward imperceptively and a couple swift hammer strikes got it all to behave. I also learned how to use a grease gun. Driveshaft: check!
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