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Showing content with the highest reputation since 22/08/19 in all areas

  1. 54 points
    Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3
  2. 27 points
    This year has been a real rollercoaster. I've had far too many projects on my plate (and a lack of motivation to finish them), not much expendable income and a huge life change with my 5+ year relationship ending... So I've been planning on thinning the hoard, moving somewhere else and starting a new life. So when an old, rare 2 stroke bike showed up, the logical thing to do would be to pass on it. Right? WRONG. Enter the Wolf. This piece of Suzuki engineering is 1969-1971 Suzuki T90 Wolf. It's very closely related to a T125 stinger. My dad and I missed out on a T125 last year and we were gutted. It was a green one in "barn find" condition- but appeared to be missing the carbs: Then a wee while ago, @SOHC happened upon this old T90 Wolf that he and his friend used to ride around 15+ years ago. He said it would be available, so a deal was struck and I went to collect it over the weekend. It's a quirky wee beast and has some cool features like a seat that hinges backwards - I've never seen this style before. The seat has seen better days and needs a trip to midnight upholstery so @64valiant can work his magic on it. The frame, forks and motor are all bit dirty and there's some corrosion, but it's surprisingly good for a bike that's been sitting for this long. It needs a headlight, indicators, speedo cable (the thread is broken on the underside of the speedo unit) and the forks will need a bit of love to deal with the peeling chrome. I think a strip and re-paint will be good enough for starters. Eventually I'll strip this bike down and give everything a proper clean up. The frame could do with a blast and re-paint, the tank needs a small amount of rust cleaned up and a re-spray. Overall it's a very solid bike though! And runs amazingly well for something that's been sitting in a barn. All it took was a bit of fuel and it fired into life. Jeah! Rare, old, small capacity, 2 stroke, twin cylinder radness. This should be fun.
  3. 21 points
    Stripped most exterior stuff off, except for the doors. Have cut off the a-pillar rain gutters after ajg193's suggestion, cleaned up all the rust underneath and plug welded them back on. Found some spots of rust on the hatch after removing the window. Most of it is just surface rust. Got carried away and stripped all the paint off the exterior side. Previously someone has stripped it and gone over all the rust spots and ground them out. Which I wasn't too happy about, but it seemed to have stopped it rusting further. Has a little patch welded in on the lower right as well. This top bit, just below the water squirter had a few small holes. Cut it out and made a patch to weld in, after I cleaned up the rust inside and painting it. All welded and cleaned up. Picked up a new engine! 4AGE 20V Blacktop!!! And a J160 6 speed. It already has the SQ Engineering adapter plate. The clutch/pressure plate and starter is already set up ready to bolt the two together. Pulled out the old 4K. Empty and dirty engine bay. Gave it a steam clean, came up heaps better. Test fit of the J160, definitely going to need to pull out the grinder! Laser cut out a 12mm stainless exhaust flange. Planning on building some high-rise headers at some stage. Ordered some goodies from SQ Engineering. Bought some Cusco AE86 engine mounts. Also have an AE86 water pump set up and some other bits on the way.
  4. 21 points
    Some goodies arrived during the week, so it was time to get under the Tasmin and rip out some hose. Since working under cars on stands sucks, I had another go at getting the car up on the Quickjacks. This time I was much more successful. I had to use the jacks sideways (an approved method, and the same as I used on Snicket) The reason I wasn't so keen on this initially was that the exhaust hangs so low I wasn't sure it would clear the frames. It did. Just. With the Tasmin in the air, it was much easier to roll around under it on my creeper. I started to rip the old fuel hose from the tanks out. No photos of this process because it was messy.... First I disconnected the feed to the pump. This is from both of the tanks, so I had a 10L fuel can ready. I managed to spill a fair bit, but got it into the can in the end. I filled up with 10L the other day, and about 9L or so came out. Some of that difference would be on the ground (and my arms), but it confirms that the tanks were bone dry when I got the car. The hose came out easy enough. It was worse than I thought though, every section of hose was seriously perished, with cracking all over it. The hose also smelt like fuel on the outside. There were some nasty splits in the ends of the hoses from each tank too Bend the hose, and it isn't pretty The new hose is Continental J30R7 5/8" fuel hose. This is a low-pressure suction feed, so didn't need to be a high-pressure hose, it just needed to be high quality. The hose walls are thicker than the old Aeroflow 400 series hose. The old Tee piece is made from a bunch of Aeroflow bits. In the interests of simplicity, I replaced it with a 5/8" solid brass Tee Old mate wasn't too hot on cutting ends straight, so a couple of clamps were hanging over the edge. Not best practice. The new Tee section And installed into the car. The two tank outlets are very easy to access And the Tee hangs above the drive shaft (and there is evidence that the old setup had been in contact with the driveshaft at some point!). The zip tie is there to hold it up and clear of the shaft. The hose was routed slightly differently to simplify the route, and then cut to length and connected to the pump. The hose was zip-tied to the chassis in a couple of places to secure it, making sure not to pinch the hose as it had been With the tanks connected I want to replace the fuel filter and inspect the accumulator. The whole lot (pump, filter and accumulator) are mounted on a plate above the chassis, in front of the LH side rear wheel. On the later 280i the filter is mounted in the engine bay. The black one is the accumulator, and the silver one is the filter. The pump is out of shot to the left (with hose removed). This is the other side. Let me illustrate the fuel setup with some coloured arrows. Fuel comes into the pump from the tanks (orange), out of the pump and into the accumulator (blue), out of the accumulator and into the filter (yellow) and finally, once filtered, out of the filter and along hard lines to the fuel distributor in the engine bay (green). These hoses weren't too bad visually, but no point in leaving them there. One quick check for seeing if your accumulator is stuffed or not is to disconnect the vent hose from the back of it, and see if fuel comes out. Mine was full of fuel. This vent hose should be dry, because it's only to help equalise the air inside the accumulator, and shouldn't have any fuel contact. The fuel is (usually) separated from that side of the accumulator by a diaphragm. If the diaphragm splits, it lets fuel through and back into the tank instead of holding pressure. My accumulator is stuffed. Thankfully I had planned to remove it completely and will be using new fuel hose to bypass it and route the pump straight into the filter. The fuel filter has banjo fittings on it. The inlet converts to rubber hose, whilst the outlet is to a hard line. Some of the hose clamps on the fuel hoses had been installed by a scumbag and weren't accessible from the underside. I'm not too sure how they were even done up, unless it was off as a complete assembly and clamped whilst on the bench before fitting. Since I wasn't using the hose again I chopped it off, unbolted the accumulator and pump and removed the lot. The accumulator looks very old and probably original to the car. The filter had been replaced, but it had a date of 2005 on it. The receipts say that the "recently replaced" filter was leaking back in 2011, so either it wasn't that recent, or it was old stock when fitted. I ordered a filter online based on the original filter numbers I had, and even with triple checking, it's wrong. Yeah, that's not gonna fit. It's possibly the correct filter for a later car with the filter in the engine bay. Working off the number on the filter, I need a Ryco Z399 instead. One has been ordered, along with a Z71 oil filter. Unfortunately that leaves me at a standstill now. Hopefully the new filter will be here this week and I can fit it after work one day. In the meantime I had ordered a new air filter, so went about fitting that. I had previously checked the filter and noted it was dirty, and the wrong filter. The old filter had rounded corners, so left an unfiltered gap at each corner. The correct one for the early airbox is a Ryco A1345. No gaps Parts bin special I'll probably lose some +6hp gains from closing up those gaps, but at least I know its right, and won't be sucking in unfiltered air anymore. Sigh. Sometimes I just wish some people wouldn't touch cars. A little knowledge is dangerous.
  5. 20 points
    Rear bumper has been straightened up and trial fitted. Looking mint. Just needs a file up and off to the chrome players again. Down to the last few small jobs and off for the final blast.
  6. 19 points
    Off for the final blast, then refit the bonnet, doors and boot lid and then off to paint woohoo
  7. 19 points
    Hi folks, just realised I hadn’t posted this up yet. I think this car made a brief appearance on the British cars thread. It’s now mine and currently in my driveway awaiting fixing. Main work is going to be engine as it needs a rebuild or an alternative sourced, very Smokey!
  8. 18 points
    We’d decided we were going to tackle 42 traverse. Which was a great choice for a shakedown ride imo. Adventure50 handled it quite well, 4t motor is just lazy and loves being held wide open to bounce up obstacles. Did a few jumps, bashed through a bunch of puddles, and succeeded at most hill climbs (let down by lack of rider skill mostly) apart from the really wet slippery clay ones (like picture) due to lack of tyre grip, as the SR241 trail tyres just clogged up. Cleared instantly though once back onto the more solid bits of the trail. relocating the airfilter into the frame was good, as it increased the wading depth. However we still had to carry/float the bikes across as a section of this was mid thigh deep. Even made it up to see some snow only issue on the day was I lost the exhaust nuts -my fault for not double nutting/using lock nuts. And could go for some firmer front springs as it bottoms out fairly easily. / less bent fork tubes might help too. however we only did 42 one way as on the way back Andrews bike broke and we had to walk it out. So I need to go back to ride it both ways again. #cape
  9. 17 points
    Righto, so ive been driving this to work every day for the last month ir whatever. Hasn't missed a beat. Its fucking slow. Fuck me is it slow but that's not such an issue, it's fucking cool and I like driving it. The front end is a bit all over the show If you have to hit the brakes on the motorway so ive replaced all the bushes. Castor arm bushes and upper inner bushes were completely fucked. Im fairly certain they were original ones. I'll do the back next weekend and put thre disk brake diff in at the same time.
  10. 17 points
    End of summer update.... Autumn's nearly here but the weather's still dry and the temp is in the high teens so I'll keep on using it until the winter rain and road salt arrive. It's been a good few months of Skyline driving, I've put quite a few hundred miles on it and am really happy I got my thumb out and sorted it for the road. No real problems except a continuing worry that the gearbox and diff are a bit low on oil. The plugs proved really hard to shift, at one point I had a set of 2 foot Stilsons with 2 foot of scaff tube and they still wouldn't shift. Finally today I got it on the 4 post ramp, stuffed a load of heat into them and got the bastards loose. Fucked them in the process and was glad/not glad that both g/box and diff were full of nice smelling, clean oil. Changed it anyway. They must just be worn out then. I'll let things develop. Started reshaping what was left of the bungs but then boss man Lee appeared with two shiny new gold anodised alloy plugs that are something trick for Land Rover axles or something, I zoned out TBH. Lighter than the originals so the car felt a bit faster on the way home. Pic for fred, hopefully more to come before it goes back in the shed till the spring.
  11. 17 points
    Chucked in the fresh triple electrode plugs and new leads.. hooked a few gears for a Sunday drive. Waiting for 1 last part to arrive. Will attempt a wof check this week. If it passes I'll attempt the hanmeet drive
  12. 17 points
    Some progress on the dash, it's not going to be an amazing show finish but damn it's light. I have stiffened up the under side with some bits of chopped strand. Once that's cured I'll continue on with mounting points (hopefully). At this stage I'll probably cover some of the top with black microsuede or something and satin clear the exposed carbon in an attempt to reduce glare. Open to suggestions for cutout for the demister. Plan is a 12v hairdryer plumbed to some sort of DIY ducting.
  13. 16 points
    Long time between posts as usual, made another mission back to the Marshland yard before it's all gone. Managed to get four decent 14 inch rims to put the Sabre back to original and so I can fit the NOS hubcaps - will look the part once blasted and painted. Also found a floormat for it amongst the grass, I have the passenger side but had been missing the driver's so I'm a happy lad! Also dragged this monstrosity home because I couldn't bear the thought of it being crushed. I'll clean it up and then decide what to do with it.
  14. 16 points
    Time for final assembly. I bought a new set of cam followers as the old ones look a bit thin in the head. And I have had one break in another engine. Put the crank in. Short blocked. Checked the front pulley for tdc. It's the best time to check it. Not a common problem with solid front pulleys. But definitely common for old harmonic balancers to move and cause a headache when timing your engine. Assembled the head.
  15. 16 points
    Ok ok What a balls of a job Floor is in Inner sill is in Cab back patch is in Inner cab mount plate is in Outer cab mount is in New sill getting trimmed to fit Not sure if I need an inside sill bracket like what was shown gas axed above, doesn't exist in my parts book.
  16. 16 points
    Update installed full “road/race” suspension package from classicalfa.com, incl bushes, shocks and springs. along with braided front brake lines, 4pot fronts and new rears. that sorted we hit a practice day at Taupo over the weekend run by the AROCNZ on Saturday. The result, far better handling and braking! The top trailing arm bushes were toast and now has no side to side knock and body roll is far less. Still has a bit of roll but it’s a classic car and it isn’t intended as a race car so we think it’s pretty well balanced now. new ride height has eliminated the rear tire gap and it looks far better. i drove it down from Auckland, on the track, and back again with very little issues. Now being slight exhaust knock due to ride height, a clutch that is on its way out (all though we knew this prior), and a small knock at take off and low speed. granted it’s had all new bushes, we’ll check the U joints and diff play. that, aside from much needed head room with a helmet on it ran really well! the LSD really hooks up, and even with the softish suspension you can throttle and stear it out to the outer boundary quite predictably, and ride 2nd gear out just passed 7k past the flag box. great day all round, and some small things to add to the white board ill add some track photos when the event photographers put them up
  17. 15 points
    Hey guys & gals Looking for a bit of excitement on your Labour Weekend? Join us in the beautiful Taranaki for some cold fizzies, 4-square and mullet styling. Registrations open - form found here (First 10 registrations get a free high five!) Itinerary (loosely) as follows Friday 25 Oct - camp check-in from 4pm. Saturday 26 Oct - Bike ride and lunch somewhere yum followed by a private collection viewing. Sunday 27 Oct - Back country cruise, BYO BBQ lunch followed by a gin distillery tour (tastings included!) Monday 28 Oct - Clean up and departure As our regular Hawkes Bay whip was sadly unavailable this year here's some pointers on the new camp... Location: https://goo.gl/maps/QHXNSuxtkcGkX6KE8 Features: Outdoor fire pit, DVD player, swimming hole, cabins and tent spaces, communal kitchen & hall, hot showers & toilets even! What to bring: Your own bedding, togs if you are brave, marshmallows and if you have a spare piece of firewood bring that too... Will update entry list here as and when. xox Camp Mom
  18. 15 points
    oh oh oh i forgot the coolest part. Had our resident PPSC pinstriper do some subtle tank art for it. PENNY PINCHERS SCOOTER CLUB BUY FOR CHEAPS SELL FOR HEAPS
  19. 15 points
    Front brakes ready to bolt on VJ spindles, new discs with 3mm off the od thanks to @RXFORD, then @RUNAMUCK kindly supplied some wheel studs to replace a couple that got mangled on the way out, reco surf calipers, new wheel bearings, aussie valiant lower ball joints which have a shorter steering arm for more hektik drifts, and repco had some new dust caps
  20. 15 points
    Time to strip the head down. Suddenly I realised I’d lent my valve spring compressor to that guy we all know who never has his own tools (and we always forget his name), who never returns tools……….grrrrrrr! As I’ve said before, combining the lack of an appropriate tool with a good mig welder and the obligatory collection of scrap steel under the work bench is the mother of many a good man-cave invention. Found an old screw Clamp…a bit of cutting and welding. A lick of paint…….. And the custom (i.e. beer, bullshit & bad manners) “Oldschool Holden Valve Spring Compressor” makes its debut.
  21. 15 points
    I can't get no satisfaction Except some times I do Was at a bit of a loss as to how to line the new sill up. Luckily A series engine components came to save the day. Looking at the step/scuff panel part of the door frame, it looked pretty squashed. Must have been stood in a few times. The section right in the middle where the seat frame mount is attached was unbent. So I used a rocker shaft from a 1098 Morris minor to reshape it. This must have worked because when I then set the top lip of the new sill where the old one was, the bottom of the inner sill also lined up (it was well out before) Needs another day to make a rear cab corner and join in the front of sill to the bit behind the guard
  22. 15 points
    So now I know I definitely need to make the intake valve pockets bigger OD wise by 2mm. Which was no surprise as I've increased the valve size a good amount. I also found I need to deepen the exhaust pocket by 1mm. So I used a the mill to machine the pistons. We normally use a guy to do our valve pockets as we don't really have the gear to do a really nice job of it. But I'm doing this on a budget so I had a crack. This the tooling I used to take the OD out. Above And this for deepening. They came out ok. But we would normally out work this job. I gave them a tidy up with wet and dry and a small file. Tried to take the sharp edges off the top of the piston. Here's a pic of a few parts. I wasn't going spend $250 on the double row cam chain gear kit. But it had to happen.
  23. 14 points
    Only if you mention it in public searchable forums...
  24. 14 points
    new street magic tyres arrived, wonder how much worse road riding will be shinko mobber 504 and 505
  25. 14 points
    Carried on with the wiring, cleaning up all the old connections and added in modern plugs. Added in a regulator/rectifier to replace the old Honda ones. Drilled holes in the underside of the clip on bars to feed the wires out and down into the headlight. Trying to keep the wiring tidy with some going through the centre of the frame. Had my other Honda round to compare factory spec to cafe spec.
  26. 13 points
    Shakedown went well. only issue was exhaust nuts rattled loose and I really need stiffer front forks, but it’s algood. I’m still gonna send it.
  27. 13 points
    As mentioned previously, I'm having some running issues and I need to try and work out what it is. The issue has been getting worse the more I run and drive the car. It previously only happened under load at about 4000rpm, where the engine would fall on its face and cut out like you had turned the key off. If you kept the throttle steady it would recover with a surge as the revs dropped, but as soon as it got up to about 4k again, it would cut out. When stationary, and not under load, it will happily rev to its 6k redline. It's a very annoying issue. I had a couple of suspicions of what it could be, but I needed to do some testing to narrow it down. My first suspicion was that I must be losing spark, as the engine cuts so abruptly and I felt that if it were fuel it would kinda stutter out. The first thing I noticed was that the replacement coil the previous owner had fitted was a Bosch GT40. This is a 12v coil, and from what I have discovered, widely known to have issues with electronic ignitions. Now, the ignition system on my car is both a ballasted system and electronic. A ballasted system runs a resistor on the power feed to the coil, dropping the voltage, meaning the coil doesn't see 12v. So I was already running the coil under voltage. After testing and confirming the resistor was still in place, I removed this coil and refitted the original Ford coil that came with the car. Changing this resulted to a smoother idle (maybe, but probably a placebo), but the engine still cut out. The next thing was to check the lead positions, cap and rotor. I note that the cap and rotor have been replaced, and the old ones were with the car. The old cap is stuffed, but the old rotor looked OK, so I swapped that in after a quick clean. No change. Next was to confirm if I did lose spark or not. The only way I could think of was by thinking out of the box and using my timing light... So I connected it up, and strapped it to the wiper so I could see it when driving. Sure enough, when the engine cut, the light was still flashing away happily. That indicates I have spark (although, not if I have a good strong spark, but some spark is better than none). So this points me down a different path. I have air, and I have spark. Could it be fuel after all? I posted up on a few forums asking for help, and got some great tips on where to start looking. One of the easiest to do was to check the sensor plate in the AFM was clean. This plate is hinged, and lifts up with airflow as it gets sucked into the engine, which in turn pushes a plunger up and down to control fuel flow. Well, although the top looked reasonably clean, the underside was filthy (probably thanks to the incorrect air filter that was fitted) I gave this a thorough clean and made sure it was spotless. This made no change, but its good to know its clean now. I also, once again, checked the intake tube and boot for splits or cracks, but none found. All vacuum lines (all two or three of them) were checked, all OK. One thing that makes me suspect its possibly fuel, is the state of the new plugs I fitted. Even after a couple of runs around the block, a couple look almost unused. Maybe lean? From 1 to 6 in order. This is leaving a couple of possibilities, ones that I cannot test without further equipment. First is an intake manifold leak or the likes. Today my smoke machine arrived, so I could test this. It's just a cheapie, but makes a good amount of smoke, and has a pump to actually blow it out under pressure. After a quick test, I modified it to work how I needed it to. I salvaged a cap from a CRC rust convertor can, drilled a hole in it, glued some hose into it, and glued the cap onto the front of the smoke machine (as it just has a big nozzle on the front normally, for maximum smoke dispersion in da clubz) This hose then goes into a rubber glove with a finger cut off it. I find using one of these seals the intake pipe nicely with the wrist of the glove, but doesn't crush the rubber hose. I don't know if it's good or bad, but smoke testing the intake shows there are no intake or vacuum leaks. I tested with the throttle open and closed, to check the intake hose for leaks as well as the plenum/manifold, but nothing, not even a weep. So what left? Well, two things really. I need to test the fuel pressures of the system, but because the fuel fittings use banjo bolts and hard lines instead of rubber hoses, I can't use my existing pressure testing kit. I have a new kit on the way, which has all the fittings I need to connect into the KJetronic system. This will tell me if there is an issue with the Warm Up Regulator or the main pressure regulator. The whole system relies on having the correct pressures, so even a few PSI difference can make it all turn to custard. The other thing I need to do, once I have tested the pressures, is to remove the fuel distributor and injectors. I need to see if the plunger in the fuel distributor is clean and moving freely, or if it's sticky. I also need to check the flow and spray pattern from the injectors. It's possible either, or both, of these things are causing an issue. My main theory at the moment is a sticking fuel plunger, which is causing the engine to starve of fuel when it demands more. The worst thing you can do with a KJet system is to leave old fuel in it and not run the car regularly. This car has been off the road for years, and I don't know when it was last started and run, or how old the fuel in the system was. KJet runs at such fine tolerances that even a slight gum or varnish on a component can make it upset. I'm determined to work this issue out and get the KJet working properly as it's a cool system, and one I haven't worked with before. I have everything I need to convert to EFI and Speeduino, but I'm trying hard to resist that urge. Now we wait. Once the pressure test kit arrives, Its game on.
  28. 13 points
    This is a test photo to see the quality of pictures. Have been through 3 phones since last time posting and I'm sending them through fb messenger.
  29. 13 points
    Update coming soon. Some of you may know what ive been up to over the last few years through my instagram account but i thought it would be good if i show you in more detail. stay tuned to find out more. sorry for the click bait. sorry for it being 5years between post.
  30. 12 points
    2 months later i have all the bits to rebuild the bottom end. the heads are already finished and i have them back. parts, 9 to 1 CR Ross forged pistons (the cunts will not change the value of the parts on the shipping invoice so keep that in mind when deciding to use them or not) eagle H beam rods and ARP rod bolts ARP main cap studs and bolts new genuine Toyota oil pump theres heaps of other shit too but you get the picture. block will now be bored and honed to 88mm. rotating assembly will get balanced and ill get the short block back. then its reassembly time. good days. or maybe not good days. going in to hospital to get back surgery in about a month so that will fuck all progress for a while............... 2019-09-19_07-59-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-59-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-58-23 by sheepers, on Flickr
  31. 12 points
    I actually like the rude rude as white bonnet look haha. 2pac likes it and that’s all that counts.
  32. 12 points
    Mounting the fuel tank was today's job, got it mostly done, little bit of welding left to do. Fuel filter and pump will go in the spare wheel well and I'll make a cover that goes over the top of the well I need to sort a sealed cap and a spill ring, and an extra fitting on top for a return
  33. 12 points
    Tested plenum on kp, looses power with side panel on. after cutting stuff up, seems taper tubes or slot aren't a restriction, as does the same with them removed. have come to conclusion kp engine doesn't like a plenum, or at least one this size. possibly the bellmouths need more space to the roof of plenum. either way cant do much about it. so going to weld it up and see what it does on hilux got bit more done on throttles, bosses welded on vac rail. Throttle plates etc modified and back in. linkage rail re-drilled. pretty much everything needs modifying / butchering to get the throttles close enough together. Found a plug on aliepress that vaguely sounded like the right one for the tps. after a few dollars and the usual wait it actually fits Dug out this smaller 55amp alternator, fits on current lower bracket, will fit up close to block once have added more adjustment to top bracket. Was pretty toasted, so chucked some new parts at it. Never really attempted to rebuild an alternator before, was pretty easy Even found a sightly bigger pulley in my pile of junk alternators,
  34. 12 points
    Been distracting myself with some work on this. My Subaru was stolen on Monday sadly, and it has been a very eye opening experience in terms of the police, insurance companies and the shitty side of the world in general. While not an OS car, as some have mentioned- a classic regardless. Mine was a really tidy and original example, and I had some great restoration plans ahead. I am still hopeful I will get it back. Anyway, I decided to paint a few bits this week including the front bumper and the door tops- which are mostly made of rust now it seems. Surprisingly, Supercheap could mix me two cans of Spanish Olive without evening knowing the paint code. The lady commented on what an, "Interesting colour," it is. As you can see, my abilities to paint and retain a natural patina are astounding, and nothing to do with the fact that I am actually shit at painting... Finished bumper Sanded, then primed, then new colour Colour match is good, rest of the car is quite faded despite a polish earlier in the year. I think it will benefit from the wheels being powder coated black. Imagine it will be getting more attention now, and the Lotus isn't holding my attention much. Maybe things will change. I am going to daily this for awhile and see what happens.
  35. 12 points
    Brought this old girl earlier this year, done small things to it but she runs and has rego on hold. have lowered it and put new wheels on and currently making a new flat deck for her While waiting for my rear guards to be rolled been doing some rust on the bonnet with help from my old man
  36. 11 points
  37. 11 points
    Back from holiday so called Stephen again, very friendly guy. Said he thinks this car might might be the one which the Redcross bought new to raffle off in Wellington. He thinks he should have some kind of paperwork. But it will take a while to look through, it was 40 years ago lol. Ask me to call him again in a couple of weeks. Wife has been sick since we got back so haven't had any time the last few days to work on cars, had the kids play on the driveway so I could have a look at the distributor. Thought maybe the points were stuck. Looks like its oxidized, moved ok. Then the boy sprayed the girl with the hose so I didn't look any further.
  38. 11 points
    Close enough Fender is a reproduction, so I made a best guess as to panel gap. A little filler, a little seam seal and she's seamless
  39. 11 points
    Now its done Featuring a new tall pipe from Rumbler Jesse and a suicide shifter I whipped up out of parts. Stoked as fuck with how it looks now too
  40. 11 points
  41. 10 points
    Not immediately build related but after seeing this stuff article @myk00l ( https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/115722682/worker-to-clean-up-christchurch-hoarder-house-begins ) I managed to get in touch with those involved and a sad sight awaited me. Three 110R wrecks All realistically too far gone to save due to rust, the guy told me they had driven into the site three years earlier but I found that verrry hard to believe. There was also two 120L models (one half converted into a rally car) and one solid looking one that apparently only has ~50,000kms on it before the head gasket blew and it was taken off the road. A guy in Dunedin who I've been in touch with has a 120L that he and his son are doing up but were struggling to find parts (was quoted $2,600 for a windscreen from Smith and Smith!). I managed to save the white 120 and will be taking it to Dunedin this weekend when I go down to pick up the Sabre. It's surprising solid considering it's been of the road for ~ 20 years. Almost don't want to let it go! Would come up good with a proper scrub! Also found a loose half axle sitting in one of the cars that I'm reconditioning to put into the Sabre after the fuckery I endured trying to replace oil seals without the right tools / knowledge. Aim is to have it on the road in time for the Mcleans Island swap meet.
  42. 10 points
    Finally got the sump back on. Remembered that I had another set of bolts when I bought the sump so I cleaned them up.
  43. 10 points
    kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string
  44. 10 points
    Got the screens in, what a painful job that is...... came with fixed glass for the rear (which I kind of like) so I've gone with that Need to get my A into G, first weekend with some decent weather I need to paint and start assembling the subframe.....
  45. 10 points
    Getting there. Will find some words later on and give a full run through when it’s done.
  46. 10 points
    got it all pieced back together and running ready for Cert and a tune, also picked up a mint set of 16x8.5 &16x9.5 Vette wheels
  47. 10 points
    So in the vein of do it once do it properly. I chose a set of custom MCA Reds all round. Here they are fitted up with the brake mounting kit and cooling I adapted to fit. I went with T3 AE86 steering arms and used the T3 Adapter bushings from the standard Starlet Lower Control arms. A set of MRP RCA's finish it all off. The T3 steering arms are shit to be honest, they are far to heavy, far to large, and just over built all round, and I only got them as I couldn't get AE86 PS arms in time. Of course with 13 inch rims there was no way i could fit the steering arms on the outer hole, so I had to chop that hole off and move them in, just means slightly heavier steering, but more responsive which i'm fine with. However with the RCA's the angle of the steering rack ends meant the ball joint (or whatever it's called) hit the steering arm, so we had to do a fair big of clearancing to give a free range of motion. Of course I only got this all sorted just in time for a shakedown on the Friday before the new racing season started on the Sunday, nothing like leaving it to the last minute. Shakedown didn't go well either as I couldn't get the front/rear bias sorted, and flat spotted a set of front tyres. So Saturday I removed my original in line bias valve (supposedly can lock on when high fast pressure applied) I got out to the club day with a new pedal box, suspension and brakes. Took me a wee while to get comfortable with the car... They had discounted the entry fee, so there was a pretty big turn out of cars, which was good. First race I had a fairly good battle with what i believe was a WRX Second race I took advantage of a bit of carnage on the first corner to get a gap to an Integra which was faster then me and managed to hold him off. Handicap race for the last one, a lot of faster cars coming through (mainly porsches), got overtaken while behind traffic, then managed to get it back a few laps later when he got stuck behind traffic. Overall was a weird day with the wind, everyone was a second or two off their normal times, best I did was a 1.37:000 flat. Suspension was a lot more complaint with the bumps, still getting used to the grip, and the brakes were amazing, pedal box with the throttle pedal was a lot better for position.
  48. 10 points
    How it should have always been. The pedal set fits great. I'll need to cut the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder but that's the extent of it it. Seeing three pedals makes me very excited for the future of this car.
  49. 10 points
    Stil haven't got much major progress on this, ticking away on the little things. I've been slowly working on cleaning and polishing the trims by hand with some autosol, most of them are coming up nicely. The original dash had been hacked up to take a head unit. The car came with a replacement, but it had some rust. Cleaned that up, painted with some Brunox and got a colour match can and some matte clear. Also made a new tray, will cover with some vinyl. Came with a set of extractors that had a couple of rust holes. Welded up the holes, cleaned off the surface rust and painted with some hi-temp paint. Doubt it will last long, but will hopefully keep the surface rust at bay until I get the car up and running.
  50. 10 points
    Just a waiting game while the painting guy does stuff. I decided to take the side trim off so the guards needed a bit more work but are all in primer again now. Body is coming along very slowly. Front bumper is off to get fixed as theres a few cracks in it. Painting is boring so just one photo for now. In other news these arrived... finally. I run FA stuff in the EP and its pretty good, so thought Id have a stab at it for the AE too. Spenny, but hopefully worth it. Went with 8kg and 6kg and the shortest possible rear shocks. Will order some new bearings and maybe rotors sometime soon. No rush without the car here.
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