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  1. 33 points
    Gave the exhaust a paint with some high temp paint and then tried to assemble it all with out getting too many scratches, wasn't too bad. Bought some new braided rear brake hoses from Australia. The steering rack rebuild kit I got from England was the wrong one so just left the current seals as is and hope they are alright. Sanded it all back and gave it a coat of paint and assembled it back together. Made a new filler tube for the fuel tank and added a drain plug. Since it then needed painting again I sent it off to get powder coated instead. Cut some rubber up for the mounting straps. Just had enough rubber left over for the fuel pump seal. Pulled the engine out and gave it a good clean up. Still isn't the best as some of the aluminium parts are a bit oxidized. Whilst I cleaning the engine I got sick of looking at the hideous standard headers, and ages ago I drew up some exhaust flanges and cut them from 10mm mild steel. So I'm going to try and make some headers with the very little space available. There's heaps of room upwards so maybe try and do some high-rise ones. Started by making some ob-round to round transitions by bumping them on a pressbrake from two pieces. Worked really well, they were quite accurate to size. Need to put the engine back in, cab back on and fit the inner guards so I can build some jigs.
  2. 25 points
    I had the surgery yesterday and am recovering in hospital. Everything went really well. I hope to get out of hospital on Sunday if all things go well. Still a long road of recovery ahead of me.
  3. 24 points
    Wow - its been three years since I updated this last. The car has continued to break things - the gearboxes on multiple occasions, however the second gearbox has now been rebuilt with the selectors back to what we believe is factory specifications - so hopefully no more problems, gearbox 1 however is a different story - the dodgy synchro ring - turned out to be a dodgy syncho hub, and it finally cried enough - breaking into three pieces and locking the box solid. Its nearly rebuilt, and I've also managed to score a RX3 style 5 speed - so we will now have a "road" gearbox for the car. We have had to have the motor out for a couple of really obscure faults. First one was when the weights in the dizzy let go - smashing the dizzy housing, locking up the shaft - and taking out the drive gear. While the engine was out we pulled it down to find, the last time it was assembled - the centre housing had been a little over-machined, and had lost its hardening, with the resultant scouring from the side/end seals. So replacement housings required - at the same time we also redid the sealing around the PP spuds - as the epoxy used had no support and was lifting causing the engine to drip antifreeze when cold. The next little adventure happened when the oil pressure went west because of the front housing o-ring blowing out. Fortunately the oil pressure didnt zero while the engine was on load - so no damage was done. Thats most of the shite thats happened until now. The big news- is that the car is changing again, I've decided to take part in a new race class - Historic Saloon Cars, which run with the Historic Muscle Cars. The big thing with this class is that the cars must run with period legal wheel sizes, and if you are changing the bodywork - its period or nothing. So the flares are off, the front splitters are off, and the car is going back onto 13 inch wheels. The car will continue to run the Savanna bobtail, and will eventually get a "grader blade" front spoiler, and once the bodywork is tidied up will be going through the Motorsport Certificate of Description process for classic cars. Here's the car at Hampton Downs in January 2017 - I might have been trying a little - but its a great shot - usually the cars on three wheels not two It last saw action in Targa Hawkes Bay - when the boys broke the Civic and reentered the car in the tour for the final day. Off with the Targa warpaint, and back on 13 inch hotwires
  4. 24 points
    THE BACK STORY: This story goes back a little further than most threads, but it is important to understand the significance of such a piece of history. It all starts, with the English navigator Captain James Cook sighting New Zealand on 6 October 1769, landing at Poverty Bay two days later. He drew detailed and accurate maps of the country, and wrote about the Māori people. Most of us are aware of the HMS Endeavour, that was used to circumnavigate the perimeter of Aotearoa. However Cook also did a lot of inland exploring too, and, until recently very little has been known about this. I decided to take it upon myself to do some further investigation. FACT: On his way South, Cook visited his old mate Soichiro Snr in Japan. Soichiro was a bit of a tinkerer with a soft spot for Double Brown Saki. After a few months, and quite a few Doubro's, he invented a futuristic metal horse that he insisted that his mate Cook took with him on his travels. Cook agreed on the provision that no one knew of the wizardry of the machine. Researching deeper, I found some of Sydney Parkinson's (Cook's Artist) more unknown paintings and sketches which backed up this theory. Cook arriving in the East Cape of New Zealand Although the resolution isn't high, if you look closely in the above sketch, you can make out what appears to be Soichiro's metal horse. FACT: Word quickly spread within the Maori communities of the great dorts and much skids of Cook and his men. The people affectionately named the metal horse the 'Cooks Transport 90'. The 90 was in reference to the swept volumetric area of the internal combustion area that Rangi and Whetu at Raizer Motu-mechanics calculated while replacing the rings for Cook during a visit to Whakatane. The machine was abbreviated to Pakeha iwa tekau, or, in English The CT90. Further proof, it seems, has been under our noses the whole time. The Humble Fitty cent coin. Solid evidence of Cooks Transport 90. Most of us don't pay particular notice to any currency less than Hunnitz, however after zooming in on this coin of Cook's Waka, It appears there is indeed a machine between the two masts. FACT: Cook left New Zealand a few months later, however it seems quite hastily after an altercation with a local chief called Hone Danger. In his haste, Cook peeled out of the harbour in Endevour leaving the CT90 hidden in a Mcdonald's car park in Porirua. Not much is understood about what happened to Cook's transport over the next 80 years. Further research is indeed needed, however on occasion throughout the history books it appears that the machine was noted. I hope to find more examples of this over the next little while. However, I have no doubt in my mind whatsoever in the fact that I HAVE FOUND COOK'S ORIGINAL TRANSPORT. Treaty of Waitangi Signing in 1840 CURRENT DAY The Real Deal. Cook's Original bike as found by me this year: Cook's Own Transport - The original, one and only. Please join me over the next few months, while I take time to preserve this historically significant machine. I hope to bring you a restoration sympathetic to what James Cook what have wanted before being murdered in Hawaii for giving too many prossi's syphilis. Stay tuned. Subscribe. This is a journey you won't want to miss. #cookstransport #eastcape2018
  5. 24 points
    Now some low required
  6. 24 points
    So i ended up getting the handbrake cable and it ended up being broken! The guy said he had another one, so im just waiting on that one to arrive! its been ages now haha! Anyway a good deal came up for some motorbikes and i just couldn't pass it up! so i decided to take the ute on a 400km journey, The ute went well apart from it starting to splutter at steady throttle, but i figured if i pulled the choke out slightly the miss completely disappeared, and to be honest the ute probably is abit low for all the weight it had on the back, but atleast it looked sweet and thankfully it dident brake down haha! It was a good little adventure, and im looking forward to many more missions in it.
  7. 23 points
    These photos are hot off the press from the panel beater, received these this evening, haven't seen this in person yet. And what I reckon is the best bit.. A FLOOR! Left hand side: Right hand side (spare wheel well) Have asked them to take a break on it for a couple of weeks while I wait for the new sills to arrive, and to give my bank balance a breather so will have more in a month or so.
  8. 23 points
    Hi David I found you a fan. This is quite rare it was on a bathurst special edition valiant station wagon. They had a special transmission with second gear removed for light weight and a single barrel carb so they could do 3 whole laps without stopping for fuel. Peter Brock thought this fan was so great he signed it. Should be a good upgrade for your little toyota engine, this fan was designed for a big block 245 hemi 6 so it should cool your small engine twice as much and this plus thermostat removal should end any head gasket issues ever by running the engine at room temperature. I measured it and it will fit your engine, as a bonus getting rid of the viscous unit will give you the powerful fan noise of a much larger engine which will be impressive! Regards Clinton.
  9. 22 points
    richard has really gone to town with this car since owning it. hes put big brakes o the front, full T3 adjustable 4 link and panhard in the back, full T3 LCAs, castor arms and a new sway bar. but most importantly is this. 2018-07-14_02-58-07 by sheepers, on Flickr fully built beams with all the fruit. 6 speed gearbox and all the other go fast bits. ive been helping him do the swap so its got power rack and pinion steering now as well. we just got the engine mounts all trimmed and fitting perfectly today. monday night im going to tack them in place then well whip the crossmember out and ill weld it up properly. the gearbox crossmember will be a modified RA23 one (if i can find it) 2018-07-14_01-43-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-07-14_01-43-46 by sheepers, on Flickr
  10. 22 points
    so after it having a few coats of primer on the sills i gave it one final light sand to help with a better paint finish. i then gave the sills a blow down and wipe and laid some paint down with some paint that i had matched up using the fuel flap as a sample colour name seems right to me then applied one light coat And while i was waiting for this coat to tack on... I then applied a few more coats on each side with them not being very thick coats with leaving some time before applying each coat. ended up using the whole amount i filled the gun up with And didn't end up with any runs in the paint and a pretty good finish for a non paint guy. could've got a better finish if i had applied the coats thicker but also didn't want runs haha oh and next up ill take it off the stands which should be quicker than it went up
  11. 22 points
    and put it back together i did. the back dowel hole in the head was a bit flogged so i made a stepped dowel by turning down the shank of a drill bit and using that. it worked mint. fancy new water pump and later model water pump housing with the pipe going around the back of the block rather than around the front of the rocker cover. 2018-06-23_11-18-58 by sheepers, on Flickr head on and torqued. 2018-06-23_11-19-08 by sheepers, on Flickr i sprayed both sides of the gasket with this shit, a product called "hope in a can" 2018-06-23_11-18-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-23_11-19-16 by sheepers, on Flickr fucked around with the cam gear to get the cam timing as best i could. with the 1mm skimmed off the head and the chain being old and fucked i had to piss about with it a bit. luckily Toyota are fucking good cunts and they put extra holes in the cam gear to account for chain stretch so i found one of the holes got the timing perfect so im pretty happy with that. 2018-06-23_01-46-48 by sheepers, on Flickr so yea its starting to come together. theres a few little things that need sorting out before i can start it but if the stars align itll go tomorrow. ill need to re-torque the head after its been hot a couple of times and at that point ill paint the rocker cover a nice shiny red. 2018-06-23_02-22-35 by sheepers, on Flickr
  12. 20 points
  13. 20 points
    WOF time recently and needed to replace from tires (wheel alignment damage) and get the rear exhaust fixed (I did a hack job on it as part of the airbag thing). I left the car at Jensen & Moore in Levin for a couple of days for Tony to do his thing. No holes now. The brakes were sketchy when driving home from Levin so had a look at those today, and found a distinct lack of brake fluid in the reservoir for the front brakes. I suppose the Corolla reservoir doesn't have enough capacity for the Falcon calipers as the pads wear down, will have to pay closer attention to that. Anyway, needed a bleed session followed by a test drive.
  14. 20 points
    Productivity has been high on this due to deadline for hanmer..... So tonight I dug into the rust. Was worse than initially thought. No problem though. Was a bit tricky not having a guillotine/folder/nibble/compressor that keeps up with air tools/gasplant for welding the panel repair. But despite all this it got don no photos of during process due to such high productivity. But before and after. Will prob just rattle some green on for the mean time and epoxy, fill, and paint properly later on down the track / never
  15. 19 points
    Thought I updated this after drag day Any who fried clutch on my last burnout ao havent done anything. Its in the garage and Ive been slowly advancing clutch install while tinkering when I havent been building fences Today got rained out so mucked around in the garage and investigated a few things on this. The trans mount was flapping about so investigated further... Turns out its an assembly... And this rooster is toast So looked at rockauto and they only sell auto ones which have the wrong hole spacing. Can get a replacement from other sites for like US$220 or go a more solid urethane mount for like US$70 Theres a solid aluminium block one for similar price but I think without replacing all other mounts id end up breaking some other part When I first got this I also got a spoiler made by this joker Finally dummied it up. Needs a trim and a skim but should look alright
  16. 18 points
    Here's an update...it's been a while. We have both been using this wee car heaps as our daily and apart from the rev counter dying, creating a short to the coil and cutting ignition its been reliable as. That one took a bit of head scratching to work out. I checked everything and finally had a guess at the rev counter. Well it did only cost $7 secondhand 6 years ago.. That has now been disconnected and every thing is back to being tickadyboo We got bored with sliding sideways in the original vinyl seats when corning enthusiastically and I had a pair of Mx5 seats waiting for the Imp project. Decided I might as well fit them and put them into use rather than just sitting there wasted. I made all the mounting points to certification standard as it'll be going through the cert process when the Duratec is fitted. They are so much better in for driving with! Not as heavily bolstered as Recaros I have had in the past but good enough. This pair will find their way into the Imp when its ready and I'll keep a look out for other seats to fit the Viva. The mounting points looked so similar in placement to the points for the Momo branded (but actually Recaros) Alfa Romeo GTV seats I had fitted in the Viva. So I'm am figuring that Recaros might hopefully fit in place fairly easily using the new mounts. Seats... Now the eagle eyed among you might have spotted the Motolita steering wheel. Yep- its the one I had in my V6 Viva. I kept it as part of the sale agreement and made a boss to fit it into the wagon. This time I have moved it backwards even further and its great to have back in my hands. Much nicer the than skinny, torn bus wheel that was originally there. Here it is with the old seats in place... Yep- this little car has been great to use and is even better now. Handy car for carting mowers (I do quite a lot of mower repairs in our valley as one of the bread earners)... But the car is gonna be so much better with more ponies. So I have been slowly chipping away at collecting things. I cant do the actual engine swap until the Imp is on the road though. No pressure then On this front I have to shout out a big thanks to @chris r and @Gozza who picked up and transported the gearbox from Auckland down to Nelson. Chris picked it up from the seller, packaged it onto a pallet and delivered it to the airport. Awesome. Then it got a first class flight in Steve's private jet. Steve then brought it out to our place. What a neat wee trip for an NA Mx5 gearbox... Thanks fellas!!! I opened up the packaging... With the box here I propped up an Rx7 bellhousing next to it. You can see the difference in length that will allow me to use an adaptor plate without having to space the flywheel back. A lot of work? Yeah but I have continued looking for a bolt on NC box and they just aint cheap here in NZ. I have looked in the UK, much cheaper..but in the UK. So for now I will continue down this path. It's one I have trodden before and its pretty easy. Next up... the elephant in the room that is the Duratec that needs a rebore. Not any more! Another big thanks goes out @Tumeke and @chris r, again !, who found a free Duratec engine, offered it to me and then @64vauxhall brought it down in the back of his Falcon on the way to the Oldschool nationals. Its in good condition but the head has been popped off bu the previous owner for inspection/cleaning. The bores are really good and the block is very clean. Its what appears to be a good honest engine. So I am back on track. I'll be getting a headgasket set and new headbolts from England very soon and will build this up over time. Its great that I now have a spare engine which I can use for the mockup. Much nicer lifting a stripped out lightweight block and head. New engine... Also- @NickJ was one of the fellas who came up to collect the Datsun 120Y. He brought up a collection of electronic components he had spare from building his Speeduino ECU and he and Hannah sat in the morning sun and sorted through bits I needed for my ECU build. I just need to get the main Arduino Mega chip and a few other bits then assemble it. Right on track for a decent $100 ECU though Thanks Nick!.. But for now...its back to the Imp.
  17. 18 points
    Still doesnt go but have another sweet grill and did some suspension joints and bushes. Coil overs are out as low cars are cool but a right bitch to work on when they dont run. New rear screen rubber is on its way from japan and I got a couple sedan ones if any one is keen. Also getting some mirror bases made to allow for curvature of the guard. This will eliminate the mirror droop often seen with these.
  18. 18 points
    Fuck it.. .. I registered Nothing else on may as well hang with you losers aND your shit cars. I'm going to get drunk so I can put up with you all
  19. 17 points
    The TAB in Penrose closes around this time. Wednesday being payday, as a Jaguar owner this is when I stop in Ellerslie to spend my winnings flirting outrageously with the women at whichever eateries don't have my picture up behind the counter.
  20. 17 points
    If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what. The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs. Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place. Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to. Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something. Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
  21. 16 points
    @chris r @Poo @bigfoot @73crownwagon @azzurro @shaneo @Pelo. @Mr Vapour @piazzanoob @oldrx7 @Tumeke @Snoozin @V8Pete @tortron @ajg193 @rustisize @SOHC @66gt @The Bronze @MIRAGE-MAN @rusty350 @rusty360 @igor @EURON8 @Threeonthetree @sheepers @63Ragtop @GuyWithAviators @Styles @M M @Roman @Alistair @Ned @sentra @sleeektoy @MichaelJFox @0R10N @xsspeed @Corbie @Matteybean @ae85 fiend @1963 AP5 @cletus @BF HQ @punkoutnz @Kiwibirdman @Llama @rich1179 @michaelme
  22. 16 points
    Hi all Been busy with home renovations so the corona got put on the back burner. I installed the viscous fan which works well. Got the corona a warrant and being her 40th year it was only 24 odd bucks for 6 months rego awesome! Ive brought some 50mm flares so ill test fit and see how i like em. I also blacked out the head light surrounds and grille i had. I rather like it.
  23. 16 points
    Not much has been done to this wee beasty, it being winter and all but I have managed to get a couple small things done. First off when we fitted the front subframe at Alex's we couldn't locate the bolts that secure the front crossmember to the body.. Alex did mention.. "they might be in Christchurch at your place when we dropped all the other bits and pieces off" So I got ready to rummage through some boxes and luckily the first box I opened had the bag labeled with the crossmember bolts. With the help of my flat mate George we got it all bolted up easy as!. Fast forward to yesterday. The sun was out and I made use of the warm winter weather to lay some primer on the 180, anyway while that was basking in the sun I had some room in the shed so scraped off more underseal pretty much all gone just need to jack it up to get in the trans tunnel and when the struts are out get all the bits that I can't get to. The passengers side strut tower was also covered in some kind of muck so gave that a clean down too. Still not sure what to attack first on this but for now I'm going to focus on the 180 as I'd like to keep that on the road. Don't worry though I'll still have time for the wagon!
  24. 16 points
    Got some colour down on the jams and on the underside of the trunk and hood. Loving the new colour! Its Mazda Ruby Red... We put the hood and trunk back on and shipped it off to the workshop where the rest will be painted in the booth. Cant wait!
  25. 15 points
    Remembered I still had this big Toda cam I brought about 8 years!? ago. back then i tried to use it with stock head and yeah, didn't really help the situation. Alot has changed since then, so ill give it another go Current kelford inlet cam on left toda on right. Kelford is 298deg advertised 9.5mm lift. toda 320deg 10.8mm. Doesn't sound like a huge difference on paper, but the kelford is designed to run on the stock bucket & shim setup. where is the toda needs to run under bucket shims or shimless 1 piece buckets. can see in the pic its a much more aggressive profile. Also means it wont spin without some mods to the head. pull the engine apart again.... Apparently there are some variances in the castings, some will take the bigger cams without mods. i think this head was on them, but got unlucky as it only hung up on one cam lobe, rest where super tight still. so did a mr bean and gave them all a zing valves and springs back in after a trim with die grinder trd gasket with a fresh copper coat in for round number 6? Since the gear on the exhaust cam to drive the stock cas isnt required anymore. i can run the current bigger inlet cam in the exhaust side, still a missmatch but will see what happens Currently awaiting some 1sz shimless buckets x japan.
  26. 15 points
    Ordered some Cobras, 1 inch drop and they are the perfect length for keeping standard sett up captive Took it for a quick test drive, springs feel a bit firmer, Really need to get onto that double garage for these two After Not slammed but by the time it's got two passengers in the front it sits quite a bit lower and is still functional Picked up a sweet key ring (NOS i think?)
  27. 15 points
    and some paint made it onto the truck, I seam sealed the gutters prior to this Basecoat, holden platinum gold I think it was, much more beige than the Mitsubishi gold this truck rolled out of the factory in and some fast flow clear The basecoat is left overs from whenever this was last painted, about 5-6 years ago I think, so will see how close it matches whats on there. I blended down to the body line so it should be a fairly smooth transition. A couple of defects I can see, mostly pre existing ones in the areas I didn't repair, doh, but the whole thing needs a respray as theres sanding marks in the basecoat on the bonnet and guards plus a few scratches. Yeah theres some dust in the clear, but should buff out should I ever bother. Don't know how much I want to polish a turd. As long as its all one colour and weather proof
  28. 15 points
    HP Upgrade imgurl free image hosting
  29. 14 points
    Wednesday 25th July Save the date the, "i just happen to be driving an older but legal* motor vehicle and like burgers once a month or so, we happened to find a park up here, and it seems other people with cars that just also happen to be older instead of newer coincidentally did too" meet? Someone might feel like a burger at around 730pm A chance to catch up with fellow people who happen to be driving a older car, talk with people you may or may not have met before and get your mouth filled with meat. Or not meat if you're that way inclined. Burgerfuel, Mexicali Fresh, Ajadz, Subway, D theres a few car parks in the area and plenty of side roads, See map for the location of burgerfuel. And there might be a convenient car park in the picture First time you happened to be driving a old car and happened to park up here to get a burger? people driving old cars might show up between 7:00pm and 8pm-ish. MOST OF THESE ARE COMMON SENSE. WE WILL PROVIDE A FEW GENTLE REMINDERS WITH THE NEW RULES BUT REPEAT OFFENDERS MAY BE ASKED TO LEAVE. RULES AND THE BORING STUFF!! Basically these are in place so we have a fun and friendly meet and leave the carpark clean and tidy like we were never there. Take your rubbish away with you or put it in a bin, Use the public bins downstairs not the private ones belonging to the business up top. Smokers please don't dispose of your butts on the ground! Please limit the ALCOHOL consumption. Its a public place and the Police/security regularly stop in and we don't want want anyone getting in trouble, We also don't want people leaving empties around. You are welcome to invite mates, but please note you are 100% responsible for your and their behaviour. NO Skids or Reckless/Dangerous driving Park in a proper carpark! If its full then just use a bit of common sense and try not to park too many people in. Don’t make excessive noise, idle for extended periods in surrounding streets. Dont be a cunt dont be a dick what a coincidence people decided to drive old cars and have burgers on this night right?
  30. 14 points
    Hello my name is Greg and I have a small problem that involves volkswagens. Introducing my latest and greatest Oval. Let's see how i get on with this. Kombi 1st and yeah found me the next project already.
  31. 14 points
    Well, I'm not kidding, I'm all over the place with the Mini at the moment. Most of the work I'm doing now is waiting on parts, so I start a job, get to needing parts and then move onto the next job. Rinse and repeat. I was about to say "but wait, there was one job I completed!" but then I realised I didn't. Sad face. This job was the first one I did yesterday; greasing my nipples. I started with the best of intentions, having purchased a fancy new "brand name" grease gun and watching some YouTube videos on the task. There are four grease points per side, three in the front, one at the rear. I started with the rear one as it's really easy to get to. I gave it a quick clean On went the grease hose, and after a few pumps I spotted grease coming out the other end of the arm (this is good, it's your indicator to stop) Unfortunately this is about where the fancy pants grease gun gave up and I had to go exchange it for a "store brand" gun, which by the way, worked perfect. The front ones require the car to be jacked up at the front, but you don't need to remove the wheels. These are the grease nipples, handily pointed at by the nozzle of my brake clean can Much more obvious after a clean Once again, pump in grease until you can start to see it coming out. Here it is coming out of the lower joint boot Unfortunately as you can notice in the above photos, the top ball joint grease nipple on both sides of damaged, and just leaks grease. I'll order new nipples and fit them. So that was the first job that is half done. Moving on, the next thing on the list was to redo the sump plug, which was leaking a fairly significant amount of oil since I replaced it. I knew this was a risk, but its kinda my own fault for using the original copper washer and liquid thread sealer when the thread wasn't perfectly clean. Argh. I drained the oil again. There goes $60 of oil with less than 5KM on it. This time I used proper thread tape, and a genuine Rover copper crush washer. This type of washer is standard for what is used on my SD1, it's a copper washer but is designed to crush and seal when tightened. This type of washer can account for slight variations in the surface (ie: tapping the thread on an angle >_< ). I also made sure that the threads in the gearbox were 100% clean and dry before fitting I don't have much spare oil, so used the left over 400ML I had. So far there has been no sign of any weeping. I left it overnight with a white rag under it, and it was still clean the next day. I can't fill the engine with oil until I have done the selector oil seal, which is currently leaking. The parts are on the way for that. Next on the hit list was another serious oil leak that I had noticed. It was from the back of the engine, so either fuel pump gaskets or timing chest gaskets. Both of these gaskets are on order, but in the mean time I needed to gain access to the back of the engine. Access is blocked from the underside by the diff, and blocked by the manifold/exhaust/carb on the top. I needed to remove the manifold and carb as the exhaust was leaking and the carb needed a clean, so off it came. The carb is easy to remove, just two nuts and various hoses and cables Whilst there I couldn't help but pull as much of that matting out from behind the master cylinders. It had soaked up various fluids and gone really gross The manifold it self comes out as one unit. The clamp from the manifold to downpipe was a real pain to get off. For some reason it was seized on one side and required a lot of BFH percussive persuasion. Plenty of space down the back now. The carb was dirty but didn't appear too bad. I wanted to strip it down and inspect/clean just to know what I had. I don't know what oil was in the dashpot, but jeez it was hard to raise the piston by hand. It was super thick. The breather inlet on the carb was blocked, but the hose clamp was loose. Wouldn't be helping. I'll be reinstating the proper breather setup upon reassembly. I removed the dashpot and piston. There was a bit of filth inside the carb and on the piston. Not much wear though The float bowl had some muck in the bottom, but the fuel in it was clean I gave the carb a thorough clean inside and out. The needle came out to check what needle was fitted, ADE, and give it and its fittings a good clean. Someone had been here before, and overtightened the screw that holds the needle in place and cracked the holder. It's OK for now, but will try to source a replacement when I uprate the needle. Whilst poking around and cleaning the body of the carb I found the piston lift pin. This is what you use to lift the piston and check the mixture Piston UP and DOWN I started to reassemble, and gave the dashpot cover a quick clean and polish. I don't want it too shiny but a rub down with a scuffing pad made it look OK I had to stop there though as I need my float chamber gasket to arrive. Next on the bench was the manifold. I needed to clean the gasket goop off the flange and downpipe connection. Of note, there was no exhaust paste on the manifold or downpipe. The gasket was well past its best, no wonder so much sealant was used Some good scraping and wire brushing got the flange looking nice It's so tiny! I look forward to fitting the much bigger Long Center Branch headers in the future Now I need to wait for all my gaskets to arrive, and then I can fit all that back together. In the mean time, I had a fiddle under the bonnet. I have an overhaul kit coming for the carb, with new cap, rotor, points and condenser, but in the mean time I wanted to see what the gap was like on the old points. The gap was a lot smaller than the required 0.30-0.40mm gap. I adjusted them to the correct gap just to test that I still remember how to do it, after so many years. But hey, I'm not done there either! So, next was to move inside and the car and make a mess there. I wanted to know what the random wires, and random button on the steering column was. So I went on the hunt. A couple of screws, and here's what its connected to. Nothing. So where does the green wire hanging under the dash go? Turns out its wired direct to the ignition switch. Switched live then I guess. That got removed. I also removed a large speaker wire that runs from the boot to the front of the car, and connects to nothing. I think its connected to the reverse lights, so that might have something to do with my next weird find.... Lots of tape, a hose clamp, and a microswitch. Not hooked up to anything mind you. I removed the shifter to remove all that rubbish, and also lubricated the moving parts. Whilst in the interior, out came the seats This wasn't just random. Both of the seats have busted diaphragms under them, so you fall through the passenger's seat and the driver's seat is reinforced with a couple of slabs of wood I have new, updated sprung mesh diaphragms on their way from Minispares, so have to have the seats out for that. The other major issue I needed them out for was to weld the floor. Weld the floor? No, not because of rust, because of someone using too much brute force on the hand brake. I noticed this the other day because I need to adjust the hand brake, as it barely holds the car (and wouldn't pass inspection). Unfortunately someone had known this, so had been there and wound the adjuster full to its stop. After some more BFH work, and careful levering I had the mounts back roughly where they should be. You can see how far away the clevis under the mount is from the hole it should attach to I placed the lever where it should sit and then wound out the adjuster. Well I guess I have my adjustment back! Now I need to crack out my new welder and zap some metal back into the front mount to attach it to the floor. Speaking of floor, look at that lovely untouched metal. Since I couldn't be bothered getting the welder out at this very moment, I moved onto removing the dash gauges. I need access to the back of the oil pressure gauge, as I have a replacement oil supply hose on the way, since the old one leaked badly and the seller crimped it off. I needed to remove the badly warped dash cover first. Two screws got the whole lot out. Not sure what to do here, the old one is so warped I don't really want to fit it again. Will look at options. I found these two gems stuck behind the dash cover. A card from the Canterbury Morris Minor Club, and an old ice scraper card. The central gauges are easy to get out, with just a few screws to remove Since the gauges were out, and I felt like I needed something else to do, I removed and cleaned the oil pressure gauge. The same scuffing pad I used on the dashpot cover was used on the chrome ring with good results. I also thoroughly cleaned the glass The temperature gauge had a weird hazing on the inside of the glass, around the edge I chose to strip this gauge and clean the inside of the glass. Using some brute force I twisted the bezel to line up the tabs and allow it to be removed A thorough polish and clean, and BAM, mint (well, kinda, this photo was before I polished the bezel) The speedo was next in the hit list. Heres a half-half shot of polishing the chrome and all reassembled. Blingin' But wait, there's more! I found a weird random wire chilling in the engine bay. Turns out it was the purple/orange wire I was looking for (I thought it was brown/orange, but couldn't find it on the wiring diagram). Its meant to connect to the inline fuse behind the gauge cluster (the black thing to the left of the wire) Unfortunately there was no spare wire on the other side of the fuse holder for me to join to, so I chose to replace the holder with a more modern blade fuse holder. Not my neatest work, I may tidy it up later, but it should do the job. Just a quick note, when replacing a glass fuse with a blade fuse the rule of thumb is to halve the rating of the glass fuse. It's a long story, but something to do with slow and fast blow. So what does it do? Well, this! Which I changed to a warm white LED Oh, and this. Hazard lights! Great success. I guess that's one job I actually finished. Nope, damn, I need a spare flasher relay. So yeah, lots of unfinished jobs. Lots of bits everywhere. Lots of waiting on parts. Thankfully the parts will be here this week. I also need to weld the hand brake mount, so will get onto that soon. Then jeez, I might almost be ready for the rego inspection. Maybe.
  32. 13 points
    SO....this shell is WAY better than mine. It has virtually no rust in the spots that are an issue on my first shell, and the front end/panels are totally straight. It's a early model so the front end is slightly different in terms of the grille mounts etc, but that's an easy fix. There's no rust under the cowel where the heater box mounts up, the spare wheel well is all complete, I now have a set of rust free doors. The boot and bonnet will need to be stripped to reveal their true state as it looks like theres a few gremlins under the surface, but the shell at first look, looks 95% rust free! So the plan is now to strip this and send it off to the panel beater with minimal fabrication work needed. I won't count my chickens, but this could speed up the whole rebuild a lot. Happy Man!
  33. 13 points
    So, small car update, big life update! I am going in to have Gastric Bypass Surgery tomorrow. It was going to be in August but they last minute moved the date forward. I only had 6 days notice so I have been rushing around getting ready for that. I was planning to get the car finished by the surgery date in August but since they moved the date forward then I will have to finish the car after I have recovered. So, expect less progress photos for a while. I will post a little update when I am out of surgery and back online. Here is a few little progress shots of the interior all painted. And I also got some track rods from a friend on the Avenger forum
  34. 13 points
    I drove the car home from work, what a whale, (it’s funny it literally has the world smallest carb, I’m sure it’s about the same size as the one on the 235 blue flame 6 cylinder that’s in the wife’s Belair) this showed a couple of things that will need attention, the fuel and temp gauges don’t work, the power steering box has excessive free play in it but otherwise drove nicely, I showed the wife (so she understand why she won’t be seeing for a few months.....maybe longer) put it in the garage, lifted it up on ramps in the back and axle stands in the front, realised how much flex is in a pillarless car as if I had the axle stands behind the front axle centre line, the doors opened and closed noticeably less nice, can understand why it’s common to put subframe connectors into these vehicles and it’s definitely on the list of things to do after compliance have had a good look under and around the car and have come to conclusion that it really needs to have the under body blasted, it looks to be nice and solid, but there is a fair bit of rust/dirt scale. I’m going to go see a chap in Pukekohe that has been recommended to me to see how much it’s going to hurt to have it done. All the fixed hard hard fuel and brake lines will need to be replaced so I will get them out in the next week or two and get them re made and refitted. The brake line on the diff was obviously made too long so some ones fix for this was to wrap the fixed line around the axle tube, The RR 1/4 has rust starting to come through on the inside and out. Not enough to stop compliance so that will probably wait until afterwards. There is a little bit of rust in the LR spring hanger mount point in the chassis rail but it’s bugger all realistically so I’m happy. The PS box and pump both seem to leak, there is wiring to the gearbox that has been on the exhaust at some point and melted, there is sign of a trans pan leak, obviously the fuel gauge has been an issue as some one has rangi’d and earth wire to the sender unit, And rockauto has given my bank account a hammering tonight, I’ve ordered wheel cylinders, brake hoses, temp sender, pitman arm, idler arm, all inner and outer tie rod ends, engine gasket set, ps box and pump gasket sets, full poly urethane suspension bush kit, all four shocks (uprated KYBs), All upper and lower ball joints, i messed up and ordered 2x suspension bush kits, I’ve cancelled one so I hope that gets caught before the pick and pack it, and they refund me my money. Over all I’m super happy with it, I think it’s got huge amounts of potential and I can’t wait to get it legal and start tidying up the body and personalising it
  35. 12 points
    Thought I'd throw up a few pics of me new cruiser, bit dangerous posting this in the projects section as really don't wanna start modding this thing (in the near future at least)... It's a 1984 BJ45 Landcruiser flatdeck, the very last year of the 40 series cruisers. Other than having a disc brake front end and a few cosmetic changes there's not a lot to separate this from the earlier 40 series trucks, is still bare inside and drives like a tractor. Dog is stoked to have a functioning ute again Even has a hitch pin linkage, need mo implements: I bought to daily drive and do a bit of work on the block so near term upgrades will be focused on making commute tolerable. Already has a bunch of window and door seals replaced but mostly steel in the interior so still makes a lot of noise at highway speeds. When I bought it the little spring mechanism on the indicator stem was shagged and would flick randomly to high beams every 10-60 seconds, made for an interesting first drive back up from wellies, managed to blind a few strangers and anyone I was following must've thought that I was looking for a fight. Pulled the stem to bits and managed to fix that, and replaced the exhaust manifold gasket today as that was also blown to bits and super noisy under acceleration. Is running the original 3B and 4 speed so thinking longer term upgrades will be 5 speed, turbo and front mount, power steering and maybe bigger brakes. Also keen to stocker up the interior as much as possible (has velour drivers seat outa who knows what in it), and some period steel wheels prolly also on the cards. Cher thanks for lookin
  36. 12 points
    And then with that done i applied two coats of the white knight PPG rust guard paint. Came out pretty good not too fussed anyway as the carpet will cover it too. also applied with a paint brush so not exactly a quick job. and now just to get the underside blasted and painted
  37. 12 points
  38. 12 points
    New head turned up while was away, got back and straight back into tidying up the castings and machining burrs which were poos Got it cleaned up and on she went this weekend. However as you see in this, nothing is going easy: Built oil pressure sweet ( like 55 pounds cranking! ), finally got fuel all the way up the new lines from tank ( after squirting it every where ), but couldn't find what the dang fuel kept leaking from as would only leak under pressure and being by myself ya gotta be quick tho run from the key to the engine to look but by that point it's just everyfuckingwhere... Finally found this: That lip on the edge of the machined face.. well alloy washers don't work well on that sorta stuff so that ended my day. Will make up some ptfe ones at work tomorrow and that should fix both these inlets from leaking. At least it's so close. Had it stutter and try to fire up. Think it needs a bit more advance in the timing so might tweak it a lil. Not easy doing this stuff solo! Need 5 hands.
  39. 12 points
    @Tumeke, There is some truth to your post above Sorted the lack of power, will need to play around with configurations but at this stage I think side by side will be best.
  40. 12 points
    One of the other problems with the car was the sump bung. It was stuck, it rounded off pretty early on. Cutting a slot in it didn’t help as the whole motor would flex on the mounts when you tried to undo it. The only way it was gonna come out was heat. We removed the sump. Heated the bolt up to remove it, then replaced it with a new one and a new crush washer, then put the sump back on with a new gasket
  41. 12 points
    Another update. Went down to the panel beaters and we matched the paint colour. It turns out that it is still it's factory colour. I always assumed that it was repainted a different colour at some stage. The body tags have the paint code PM which is a Mitsubishi colour named Phantom Mist. Love the name. Installed the new alternator only tensioner. Also cleaned up and painted the engine block. Took the rocker covers off to check the condition of the cams. Looks immaculate, lovely golden colour. Got all the bushes I need. Got the vehicle speed sensor from Recon Electronics in Christchurch. Got a really good deal on this. My local Toyota dealership wanted $470 but I got an aftermarket one from Recon for around $180 I got another great deal on Trademe. A set of 8 remanufactured injectors for $110. Brought them from a cool guy who has a superchanged 1UZ in a Ford Courier Ute. They are unused, he brought them and then decided to go bigger because of the supercharger, but they are perfect for my NA motor. Drove my other Avenger to pick them up on Saturday. Had a good chat about 1UZ etc. While I was up there I also picked up a Lexus front engine cover which will hid the spark plug leads at the front of the engine. My 1UZ is a Toyota so it had that big ugly cover that covers the whole engine. The Lexus ones only cover the front and side so I have been looking for this part for a while.
  42. 11 points
    Oh I also got some mags for this in a deal full of volkswagen parts and a couple of volkswagens that I'm slowly selling parts from. Set staggered set of BRMS 15x5 and 17x7. Should look ace tucked under the arches.
  43. 11 points
    Right, so clearly that was a lot of work done in short space of time. This post will bring me up to date now. I have been trying to split the previous posts out to make it easier to read and follow, since if I combined them all together it would be one huge MEGA-POST, and no one has the time to read that. This post is more of a brain dump of the other things I have done with the Mini that don't fit a particular category or are too small to be their own post. First up, is yes, the second replacement oil drain plug I fitted a few posts ago (with the thread tape and Rover crush washer) has successfully stopped the oil leak. I finally have oil only where it should be! Praise MOWOG the fickle god of British cars. Secondly this arrived the other day. One monster of an Imperial socket "Whats that beast for?" I hear you ask. Well, when I was in the engine bay the other day I randomly noted that the main subframe tower bolts were... loose. Not just loose, but barely even in their threads loose. 1-5/16" is the size of those bolts, so I got the socket to correctly torque them up. I don't know if they just forgot to tighten them? They obviously had a socket that worked, because they had to remove them in the first place. Oh well. The car feels a bit more planted in the front now, but I'm actually amazed how little you could tell when they weren't tight. I guess it puts a lot of strain on the other mounts though. Another item that arrived is my utterly gorgeous new rocker cover. You have likely seen it in some other photos, but just look at it. MMMM. Unfortunately being the idiot I am, I didn't notice the part that said "when you order this you will need longer bolts to hold it on". Well, I didn't get those bolts, but I did manage to make mine work by trimming down the new bushes. Its tight, but I got it torqued down correctly, and with no leaks! A couple of other little items I had been waiting to fit were some washer jets (the old ones were WELL buggered) And a new hazard relay, so now I have on demand hazard lights. Check out that lovely heatshrink. I secured these two up onto the wiper motor to stop them rattling about, next to my new washer bottle Speaking of washer bottles, the caps are proving bloody hard to get. No one does new ones, but thankfully I managed to source a good used one that will work. Once I had run new hose to and from the washer pump, I found out that the original pump that came with the car, despite making the right noises, didn't actually move any water. I guess that is why it was removed... The replacement pump in the above photo is the pump that originally came fitted to Effie when I first got her. It works perfectly, and now I have two pathetic jets of water that kind of shoot onto the windscreen. Water drops as proof. The last couple of items that also got changed out were the starter solenoid, and battery negative lead. The starter solenoid was absolutely coated in oil. I don't know how, but it was all over it and up in all the terminals. I tried to clean it, but gave up and sourced a replacement. It had also previously overheated the wires, causing some damage to the insulation, that was taped up. This is the trigger wire once I removed the tape. Lots of bare copper and a melted terminal cover I cut the terminal off, crimped a new one on and covered the lot with heatshrink I did the same to the other bare wire; the constant feed I removed the old solenoid from the guard, and fit the replacement in its place. I used copper grease on all the terminals, to help keep corrosion away. The car now starts much nicer. Previously it would be very slow and lumpy to crank, almost like the battery was almost flat, despite having a fully charged battery. Now it just whirrs over, and fires up. I doubt the battery ground lead made any difference to that, but it got replaced anyway. The old one, despite being a replacement already, had frayed badly where it met the terminal on the boot floor. I also wanted to fit a battery terminal with a wing nut for quick disconnection. So that's where we are now. Once I have the rear light bulbs sorted, and the battery secured, we will finally be ready to go for the re-registration inspection. Exciting!
  44. 11 points
    Not done much with this since dismantling the carport that fell on it, (no damage) as the ute has been hogging all my limited car time. WoF has now expired and the front half of the exhaust still needs replacing (Car is otherwise fine, starts and runs great). Im happy with the rear half, but as the front half needs replacing i want to run twin pipes from the manifold to the diff as per the 2300 Abarth S Coupe exhaust below (twin pipe section is much shorter currently and is blowing pretty bad) Eventually triples and extractors too, but not for a while, and like most Fiats the cast manifold is actually better than most aftermarket attempts. Anyway, it has been sitting outside on the lawn getting rusty , but have finally found some dry storage for it. Sleep tight sweet prince, ill see you in summer xox
  45. 11 points
    Works, Started first attempt once i got the right sensors. turns out the sensors i had brought for hilux spares where the wrong ones. had ordered mp100701 instead of gs100701. look like the same shit but the mp100701 looks for a magnet rather than a ferrous metal. New triggers 18tooth crank + single cam. everything is cleaner. timing , injector duty etc. other bonus is will start at a lower cranking speed than a vr sensor setup old factory toyota 24+1 driven off exhaust cam.
  46. 11 points
    11months later... I cleaned up the wheels above and went with the usual gold centers and polished lip. They were pretty hacked up beforehand but a bit of elbow grease went along way. I hand filed the lip down to take out most of the hacks, sand blasted the centres and sanded/polished the lips. They came up surprisingly clean. Painting these types of wheels with all the spokes was a very tedious task. Wheels ended up getting etch, 2k, base and clear. Pretty happy with the end result. I think they would look better if the van a sweet paint job to match. In the middle of my wheel obsession I also purchased and cleaned up a set of Cheviot hustlers. Have always like the classic 4 spoke. At this stage I had one rolling car, little space and 5 sets of wheels so the hustlers were sold on. Whilst i was in the the mood I sandblasted the wide steelies and sprayed them in a metallic grey. They were looking a bit crusty and I didn't want the rust to take over. I quite like them. They are now put away in a safe corner for the other van. I also got sick of having no interior in the rear of the van. They came out factory with nothing protecting the sides from getting knocked. I spent a bit of time making up some panels from some cheap plywood. Just the other night I finished covering the panels with a woolen blanket from the local 2nd store. Cost me $18 plus a can of Ados. Other small things include a new center consul, stereo, electronic ignition, sound deadening and a battery. Rechecked the timing and tappets as well. Runs a shit ton better then before! I ran it to mangatainoka , over to palmy and back home a few weeks ago with zero issues. Stoked. Lastest WOF was a clean sheet with the comments "oil leaks from engine, gearbox and diff". Guess thats the next job.
  47. 11 points
    Parts arrived! Woooo! Theres nothing like a big box of parts, and it was certainly a big box I do love getting new parts, but this also means I can finally start the reassembly of the Mini. The first task was to finish reassembling the carb. The float bowl gasket went on first and then I realised I forgot to order a gasket for the inlet of the carb. Oops. This is why I have a sheet of gasket paper though, so I traced the old gasket and made a new one. I fitted the gasket with a thin smear of sealant on each side, just to be sure it seals OK. Now, before refitting the manifold and carb, I needed to deal with the two potential areas of oil leaks on the back of the engine. First was the tappet chest covers. These are both held on with a single bolt each, through the middle. The gasket was VERY compressed, far more compressed than it should be for the tiny little torque required to fit them. The bolt sealing rubbers were both hard as plastic and shredded, so that wouldn't be helping. The plate with the breather on it had a pinched and twisted gasket, and clear signs of oil leaking through the gasket I thoroughly cleaned and flushed the breather out with brake clean until it ran clear, and then cleaned the covers and fitted new gaskets. I wanted to make sure these were fitted at the correct torque, so that the gaskets didn't get crushed. I have a little digital torque wrench thing for jobs like this, so put it to good use. The Torque setting in the book is about 4.7NM, but I chose to round it up to a nice even 5NM. And on they went The next potential source of an oil leak was the mechanical fuel pump. Two nuts, and a hose clamp saw that removed. I dare say this may have been the cause of the main leak, as there was no gasket fitted between the spacer and the fuel pump, and the sealant really had not worked as expected. I thoroughly cleaned the pump and spacer, and using a small smear of sealant fit a gasket to each side of the spacer When refitting the outlet pipe though I noticed some worrying cracks in the hoses. I made a quick dash to Supercheap and got some new hose to replace these With those sorted it was time to refit the cleaned up manifold. I slipped a new gasket on the studs Smeared a small amount of exhaust sealant on the exhaust flanges (there was some slight pitting, so wanted to make sure the gasket had the best chance of sealing), slathered sealant on the downpipe flange And carefully refitted the manifold, torquing the nuts correctly as I went. I'll tell you what though, refitting the downpipe to manifold clamp was a real pain. On went the freshly cleaned carb, with its gasket sandwich and spacer. Also note the fuel filter, which was soon removed. I just couldn't get the fuel pipe to line up nicely with the filter on there, and the pipe kept contacting the exhaust, which is no good. I may fit it under the car on the tank outlet instead. Here it is with the fuel plumbed back up normally, and the reinstated breather (using old and useless for fuel, fuel hose). I know the heater hose "adaptor" to the breather isn't the best, but hell, why does it step up so much from one end of the hose to the other? Silly BLMC. With the inlet and exhaust sorted, I moved to the next little task to do. Refreshing the ignition system. I'm not a huge fan of points, but they will do the job for now. The old ones were showing signs of pitting, so they needed to go I have new points, condenser, rotor and cap Replacing the points and condenser is easy, it's literally two screws and then setting the points to the correct gap. I'm glad to see someone has greased and oiled the distributor somewhat recently too. There it is, all ready for its new leads. They will need to wait a little though, as the spark plugs are currently out so that I can easily rotate the engine for other work. With more new parts to fit, I kept cracking on. Next up was a new throttle cable, as the old yellow one that can be seen in some previous photos, was knackered. It still worked, but the outer sleeve was broken in multiple places. To replace the cable I unbolted the throttle pedal from the floor, as its only two bolts. Interestingly there was another random wire attached to one of the studs. This wire, like the rest, went nowhere. I did find what I think are my actual reverse light wires though, tucked up under the dash behind the carpet. I'll need to test these, and hook them up again at some point. I'm getting pretty close to everything actually working on this little car. Pretty impressive considering a couple of weeks ago nothing worked... oh, and Lucas. The new throttle cable was a piece of cake to fit. It made a nice difference to the engine bay visuals, not having that ugly yellow thing running across the engine. Spot the new cable. The final job for the day was to remove the old, warped rocker cover, and check the valve clearances. Stevestonmotorco on YouTube has a great video on how to set the valve clearances, using the Rule of Nines. The Rule of Nines means that you look at which valve is completely open, and then use what ever other valve combined with the open one equals nine. So for example, if valve 8 was completely open (the valve spring is fully compressed) then you would adjust valve number 1, as 8 + 1 = 9. 5 (Open) + 4 (Adjust) = 9 and so on. Because you need to turn the engine over to open and close valves, you will need to remove the spark plugs to make it easier (not fighting compression). I also found that if you jack one side of the car up just enough to get a front wheel off the ground (I jacked up the LH front wheel), put the car in 4th gear, you can easily turn the engine over by hand by turning the wheel. Because of how small the Mini is, you can even turn the wheel whilst still sitting at the front of the car. In the interests of knowing the car, and how well it hasn't been maintained, I took note of each valve clearance before I adjusted them. The results were... interesting. Valve clearances should be set to "12 thou", or 0.012"/0.30mm. These are the results I obtained (ignore the missing zeros in the figures on paper) Cylinders 1,2,5,7 and 8 were all about 0.009". Cylinder 3 was 0.007". Cylinders 4 and 6 were LESS THAN 0.006", but I didn't have a smaller feeler gauge than that. Needless to say it wasn't good. I'm glad I checked them. Resetting the clearances is easy on these engines. Loosen off the locknut with a spanner, turn the screw to adjust the clearance with a screwdriver until the correct feeler gauge has a slight drag (with downwards pressure on the screwdriver applied), and then nip the nut back up tight again (whilst holding the screwdriver to stop the screw turning). I went over all of the cylinders once, and then spun the engine over and then checked them all again. I did note a little more drag than expected from two cylinders, so adjusted them again and its all good. It will be interesting to see how the engine runs now, hopefully it makes a difference. Just need to fit my flash new rocker cover and we'll be sorted there. I still have more work to do on the car, and should have another update in the next day or so. I'm hoping to get the welding on the hand brake out of the way tomorrow and then I can reassemble the interior.
  48. 11 points
    i hear we're going to be watching @Sparkle try to kick start his dax, so thats an afternoon filled. if he leaves the key turned off again it should fill in the whole day
  49. 11 points
    Went and had a look yesterday, the doors are now less self draining than they were before, with the lower door skins having been fitted and the lower frames replaced on the front 2 doors. However the self draining capabilities of the boot floor have increased substantially since last featured Have new sills on their way from Germany at the moment, I think they will be the last repair panels I'll buy in, everything else that's needed will need to be made here. Also I got called out the other night with who I have/haven't given thanks to in previous posts. An Honorary mention must be made to @Ned for storing the car for the 4-5 month period between it getting blasted and going to the panel beaters.
  50. 10 points
    Have been dreading going the rust in the roof. I knew it was gonna be a masstive pest to do because of the channel for the rubber being to small for the might torch. The back side of the weld Being inside the car (fire hazard and can't linish welds back because huge mess). And mig welding on a roof which is most of flat so will move around really quick with heat....... Started by cutting Came up with this as a result .cant see the big wave in the photo. Will need to take to work and dress the area of repair properly. Blugh. now to get into this mess
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