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Showing content with the highest reputation since 19/12/18 in all areas

  1. 50 points
    So the engine bay thing kind of took off. Some egging on by a certain lanky Auckland member... Motor out. 20181216_135918 by Richard Opie, on Flickr You can see, there's multiple useless holes in the firewall. These include, but are not restricted to the original heater inlet/outlet, brake booster, loom, aircon and all the other weird shit that I don't need anymore. Same goes for the brackets on the firewall. So what next? KP61 Phone-1 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Trekked down to see @oftensideways with the KP in tow. For those of you who don't know Sean, he's a freakin wizard, and a top bloke to boot. Someone I am privileged to consider among my mates. He'd agreed to weld up the engine bay for me, and with Bex being away visiting her family over the break it was a great excuse for me to get out of the house and go for a bit of a drive. KP61 Phone-2 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I didn't really get many shots in progress, but here's what the firewall looked like when it was time to load up and hit the road (the next day, even!). All of the large holes have been filled with steel patches. MIG'd in place then TIG welded to finish. The little stuff with captive nuts on the other side have been filled by MIG welding. Then a bunch of hammer and dolly work to get the shape back. And so we took off home. Straight into @sheepers shed... as I said, this all happened a bit quicker than I am used to. KP61 Phone-3 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Front off, subframe and suspension out. Then onto the labourious job of prepping for paint. KP61 Phone-4 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is after the initial prep work for a coat of high build primer. You'll note the brake line holes and etc in the inner guards have also been filled. Thought it was a good idea while I was down at Seans to do it once and properly. This first prep really started to reveal just how good the job Sean did was. High spots at an absolute minimum - which is great, as these are way harder to fix than low spots, for obvious reasons. KP61 Phone-5 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Sheepers sprayed the first coat of primer on the bay that same night. Was a fairly long day, but super cool nonetheless to see an inkling of what the final product was going to be like while the primer was still wet. Promising. Of course, lots, and lots, and lots of sanding still to come... KP61 Phone-6 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is after a wet sand. A whole days worth of wet sanding. You can see all the red spot filler on the firewall. This is ALL WE NEEDED TO FILL IN. Let that sink in for a while. After the amount of welding heat and bashing that had gone into the firewall, the requirement to crack out the bog was slim to nil in the end. That's how damn good Sean is. Regardless of how good it was, I ended up with trench-hands from being in wet gloves all day, which was equal parts gross and hilarious. But then the second coat of primer went on... KP61 Phone-7 by Richard Opie, on Flickr HOW GOOD. The followup to this was pretty much a rinse and repeat of the earlier scenario. But with more hand sanding, and less power assistance. Definitely a learning process, figuring out how best to make the paper do the work, while maintaining a smooth surface ready for the base coat. KP61 Phone-8 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This was about the moment I began to properly fizz. Couldn't stay in the shed while it was being sprayed as I didn't have appropriate respiratory protection, but when the door rolled up... this shot of the bay coated in a colour matched red was the result. Not bad? Major tent pants moment was still to come, however. KP61 Phone-9 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Look at that! You could bloody go swimming in that gloss. Sheeper was a little bit apprehensive to try the clearcoat I bought (that was recommended by the joker at CarColors Albany) since different product can apparently yield very different results if you're not familiar with spraying it. But how good is the result, testament to the multi-talents of the lanky fella on the gun. A couple of runs for sure, and a little bit of dirt got in the paint - expected for spraying it in a garage. But nothing that can't be very easily fixed. Today was a day off working on it - from go to whoa this took 5 days in total. I'm heading back tomorrow to touch up the underseal in the guards and also reassemble the car, take it back to the shed it lives in and crack on with the engine while I let the paint harden enough to wet sand or cut/polish the imperfections out. Thanks for looking.
  2. 27 points
    Been a long time since I looked at this, due to obvious reasons. Anyway, pulled it out of it's corner in George's shed, and washed all the crud off it a short while ago. Before it got put away, it has had a new/modified body loom by Nick the Sparky. All of the lights/wipers/fan/dash/fuel pump etc all works on it again now, battery is relocated to the boot with an isolator, various other things. The electric mirrors even work now, for the first time since I have owned it. I also installed finished the fuel tank, and sealed it with that POR15 kit. Made a right mess, and had to repaint it. Now it's shiny black with some metallic flake in it because the painter thought it'd be a giggle. Uh, did some other stuff too. Just a phone photo for now, but hopefully I can recommence with good shots in due course. 20180520_161320 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I've been pretty disillusioned with it, but have decided to try and have one last crack at being interested in it and if I can't make meaningful progress then it needs to leave my possession. But fairly confident I can sort something. Sheepers popped around and helped me take the engine out the other day, so I can bugger off and fill in all the holes that are in the bay.
  3. 18 points
  4. 17 points
  5. 17 points
    And some motivation. Thanks @crispymk2
  6. 16 points
    Project discussion: I bought this site unseen from Hamilton a few months ago. It's @brocky41 old car credit to him getting it going. Turns out it's actually a good thing... Spend the last little while fixing little stuff.. Tuning it up and charging around the country side. Really nice jap cruiser.
  7. 16 points
    Getting close now! I got a new center console installed. It's from a KE35 SR and looks the tits I got some SSR 13 x 7 meshies with 215/50 tyres on them Then i decided to tackle the bonnet. it took 3 days.... crikey. Sand Fibreglass bog: More sanding and bogging Guidecoating: More sanding and spot filling I attacked the underside with a wirebrush and then some cans out. Etch primer -> black gloss -> clear coat And painting! Left todo for WOF: Install seatbelts Install wiper linkeage Carb tune Wheel alignment Build discussion:
  8. 16 points
    Stock cams back in for now since it idles on 2 cylinders at 2000rpm. At least until i get motivated to make a new inlet manifold. finally cracked 2 hundy on stock cams with few more tweaks. still only 13psi boost
  9. 16 points
    Things. New gearbox x-member. Since I've owned the car it's had some period Ford stamped member hung off a couple bits of angle and has suffered from being first point of contact for ground/car meetings.. with the box out it was finally time to flick that nasty shit with its ground-hooking flanges, gain a tiny bit of ground clearance, and a bunch of much needed room for the exhaust. Dave Jackson got a nosey under the covers, coolant parts, carb kit, gaskets, a fantastic voyage of breaking plastic vacuum trees off in the manifold right at the end, and ignition/other parts from the previous anchor. Adapting accelerator linkages and other stuff also in the mix. Managed to get a less-chewed ring gear to help with those zingy non-starts its always had. Possible bonus, this carb setup sits lower than the previous, perhaps low enough to accommodate one of those air filter things this time, such mod con FYI falcon suckers, thermostat housings are NLA, repco get em in from Kilkenny castings in Aus.
  10. 14 points
    Hi all. been wanting to share this for a while here. I'm totally in love with this thing. I got tired of missing out on all the rides and when I did manage to attend it was on @64valiants bikes. I also needed to find a way to stop being such a hermit and to kinda get interested in life again. I missed out on a few good deals and vowed to act quickly should anything good pop up. Ideally it'd be a larger scoot with enough power to keep up with the cool kids and go places without frustrating the public. This MB came up on TM for $600.Its pretty much famous as the old ownership papers show it was first owned by Patricia Hekia Parata (lol) I rode it for a while on the 30 year old tires, then installed my carbon fiber bars (its just straight CF tube from the NF75), re-wired the whole thing with full wave rectifier and 12v, made a smoothing battery type thing out of a stack of capacitors (this works REALLY well!), installed new tires, had Midnight Upholstery re-cover my seat in crocodile vinyl, designed a new gauge cluster in F360 and had @Roman 3d print it for me (damn its nice), etc etc etc. There's more to the story but nobody is probably even reading this far though :-D. one of the best parts is some blokes that used to bucket race these things so theres tons of info on how to make them go fast i haven't done any of that yet but theres still time :-D. During pickup First nightmare kawhia trip- this one made me want working lights At @Beavers new pad. Greg did seat stuff He fitted new foam to the factory seat base. I considered using ply (see background sitting on heater) but the steel just fits so perfect its silly to not use it. This was done right before our second (first successful) trip to kawhia. No time to cover it so it was installed and used as-is. The lower curved edge of seat base was trimmed straight before covering. on the way to kawhia with greg and 10/5 Did this design and render in F360. Really wanted the new component to fit straight into the existing light housing and be as close to factory fitment as possible. the gauges are all off Ali Express- I did the render while waiting for them to arrive. The sales blurbs had enough measurements and images for me to relatively accurately do this. Roman printed me one in black and then one in orange. The orange was too choice to not use. During the big re-wire. the bike only had working indicators when collected. I was able to get one filiment of the headlight working (hard wired) but there were some serious wiring faults that prevented the tail lights from working. The headlight was dim at idle and the indicators wouldn't even flash unless revs got up. I either replaced or tested all individual wires and switches on the bike. Many of those shit bullet connectors were replaced with proper plugs. I then wrapped the whole loom in tesa tape. I got lucky on this LED lamp. This was purchased off AE and the style was a total guess. Nothing is available off the shelf to fit the factory lamp holder. This one had one tab that lined up and by bending the steel bodies fingers inward It was able to not fall out. Very happy with how this worked out and its updated the factory headlight extremely well. The head studs were all barely tight and greg noticed shit hissing out when i rocked up to his place one day. Probably gained 2hp by tightening these. Finished seat! I love this thing. Considered buying off AE but decided to get something done right for once- and super happy i did. It fits and feels so damn good. Commissioning the bikes new wiring was a total mind-fuck. Part of converting the bike to full-wave 12v is doing whats called "floating" the stators coil. To float the coil you remove the coils center output and the coils earth... then you attach the wire that you cut off the center of the coil onto the end of the coil that was once earthed. EG, the coil no longer has an earth of its own. I purchased a chinese regulator/rectifier off trademe because I didn't want to wait for ali express shipping. This was the only part that gave me a serious ballache. I first started the bike and had between 6v and 19v depending on revs. This destroyed my brand new battery (which id had an ace bracket laser cut for). I did a HUGE amount of testing to figure out what was wrong. Was it my wiring? was it my coil modification? my AE Kitset scope helped here as it allowed me to check the waveform coming from the stator. I also tried this rectifier from a chinese scoot i have here.. that one is also SHIT so was starting to doubt myself. Ended up buying a good trailtech full-wave rectifier/regulator from Amazon and paying for express shipping. This unit is a BEAST, has adjustable voltage output and a few other cool features- plus it actually works. this was installed and tested(easily thanks to me installing plugs throughout the loom) and during a quiet tantrum about my broken battery realized it wasn't necessary after-all. Capacitors from Jaycar wired into a tidy battery pack was easy and the result is extremely impressive. The capacitors smooth out the rectified AC into a really beautifully smooth DC.. The scope shows its not perfect but its good enough that nothing is visible though the LED's and brightness is double what they are without the capacitors in place. And this is it now.. There't also been new carbs and intake reed assembly acquired plus new Ali Express rear shocks (factory ones would start bouncing and feel floaty).
  11. 14 points
    finished Richies starlet and it came up mint. so now i can do more on this. i finished the last little piece for the drivers side but didnt take a picture. then onto the pasingers side. started by making a new bottom for the spare tire well. 2019-01-02_04-50-21 by sheepers, on Flickr then i made the little triangle bit to finish off the rear quarter. needed to make a new inner bit and a few little pieces but it all cme together nicely. 2019-01-03_03-13-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-01-03_03-13-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-01-03_03-13-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-01-03_03-13-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-01-03_03-13-26 by sheepers, on Flickr i started on the wheel arch and ill carry on with that tomorrow.
  12. 14 points
    Gave the carbs a bit of a piss tune. Idles smooth enough, revs up fine. Took it for a quick road test out onto rockdale rd.. I shit you not its almost twice as quick. Even got a few doughies going. Super singles, but atleast it's capable of skinning a cat now. Got it up to 90mph and it actually gets there pretty quick for an old bitch.
  13. 14 points
    So the clutch / gearbox ended up being not so straight forward ... Turns out 4 speed boxes run a different release bearing and clutch fork to the old 5 speed type boxes, so I ended up with the 4 speed in and out 4 times till i finally had the right combo of bearing, clutch fork and fork pivot adjustment spot on so the clutch would fully engage and release properly. The cars finally down on wheels again, needs a wash, and have booked a wof for tomorrow morning (fingers crossed)
  14. 14 points
    the other day I slotted the mount holes and hung this in
  15. 14 points
    So with the idle circuit sorted, I figured after working on getting a little bit of air into the engine, the next logical step is to figure out getting lots of air in as well. I'm not sure if I've mentioned it before but I plan to use the original BMW linkage rods to actuate each TB. They are stainless from factory and hard as a coffin nail, so I'd really like to avoid machining or drilling them as much as I possibly can. Because I basically can't. So I won't. I actually considered this way back when I designed the intake flanges, spacing them out the same as they would have been on the V10 in the first place. This meant that all the cross drilled holes in the link rods already line up with the throttle bodies and I can use the factory linkages and everything is peachy. Also, being originally off a V10, the rods were too long for the banks of three per side that I'm using. This left me with a handy little overhang on which to mount a custom eccentric throttle wheel. So with the help of @yoeddynz once again, and a little bit of maths, I designed this: Using the standard Escort's pedal throw of ~46mm, it gives you a little over 1/3 (7/18ths) throttle opening at half total pedal throw and the remaining 2/3rds ish with the remaining travel. Hopefully this strikes a good balance between fine controllability and spongy pedal feel, like you get in so many modern fly by wire setups. Unfortunately I won't be able to know for sure for a very long time, but, such is life. Using that neat little drawing, I spun this up in the lathe with the four jaw chuck. Probably the most offset job I've ever done. Thought the bloody thing was gonna jump out at me any second when it hit its resonance. Here it is mounted on the link rod: With that done, the next thing was to make a bracket to hold the throttle cable. I'm using a standard Escort throttle cable shortened by about 150mm and with a late model style barrel end on it. This lets me use a standard pedal and clip and not have to worry about modifying anything on that end of the deal. Here is what I came up with for the bracket: It is made from 2mm sheet to match the original bracket. This means the clip system on the end of the throttle cable fits in snugly. As you can see it is mounted to the idle circuit tubing. And here it is in place: And full throttle: Finally, I had to connect each bank together. I ordered some rose joint rod ends from china with a left-hand female thread, and repurposed a right-handed example from my original twin carb setup for the Pinto from way back. Then I modified a pair of the factory linkages to be parallel at half throttle but with one above the rod and one below, while still picking up the original holes in the link rods. This should mean that each rod should rotate at the same rate but in opposite directions for the entire arc. Finally, each rose joint is connected by a stainless steel rod with opposite threads on each end to allow for fine adjustment of length and to balance each bank properly. I also made up a couple of lock nuts for each end. So finally, this is how it all looks in action from the driver's seat: With that all done, while I was in there, I installed the proper vacuum rated flexi hose for the idle circuit. Looks flash as now. Not sure what the next job will be but I'm sure it will end up on here at some point. Cheers.
  16. 13 points
    Rented a compressor. It packed up halfway thru my first side. Supercheap backup to the rescue. Then the gun clogged up. But, got a coat of primer on. Tomorrow i unfuck all the fuck ups a bit and hopefully get it almost primed. I know tigerstripes e'rywhere, and the tailgate is as warped as a warped thing. Thanks.
  17. 13 points
    Not much has changed with this thing. Changed the wheels for the moment though.
  18. 13 points
    I was sent this photo today. How good.
  19. 13 points
    With the pipework tunnel pretty much finished I moved onto the seat rails. I had bought some MX5 seats a fair while back with the intention of fitting into the Imp. However, rather than have them sit around doing nothing I ended up fitting them into my Viva wagon. They were great but didn't quite suit it. I then bought a lovely pair of Recaros, fitted them to the wagon and have the Mx5 seats once again for this car. I had sort of roughed out how I wanted to fit them a while back but not sure exactly where to mount the supports. I needed a Datum. So I scored this beauty... Strangely it came fitted in a freshly imported Hiace van from Japan that I did a load of rust repairs to. The owner didn't like it and agreed to give it to me if I got a decent standard Toyota replacement. This was harder than I thought as most of the old Toyota steering wheels from that era of Hiace have become loose on the top of wheel and so twist in ones hands feeling horrible. But eventually I found a decent replacement, got my prized wheel and promptly fitted it to a boss kit I ordered from overseas. With it taking pride of place I sat the seats in the car and made some carefully measured brrmmm brrmmm sounds and worked out the seat placement... Before work could continue on fitting the seats I needed to machine some locating spacers. But in order to do that I needed to fit the brand new 16mm centre height tools to our replacement lathe of which the stock tool post was set to an absurdly high 12mm, meaning it could only use the little baby 12mm tools available (odd for what is a fairly medium sized lathe). So I needed to machine the tool post down with our old drill mill ... Then I machined these... Which allowed me to sit the seats neatly onto fabricated supports that I welded across the floor, the rear passenger one strengthening the floor where the new pipe tunnel is... I bolted the seats in and was very happy. The seats can go right back giving heaps of leg room for my lanky body but slide forwards more then enough to get into the back. I have mounted them quite far inboard to line them up as best I can with the pedals... I had finished off the pipe tunnel too, leaving it exposed at the back for fitment of pipes. I'll cover those bits with removable lids and will have to modify a section of the rear seat base for clearance. I'll sort out the finishing details once I have welded up the stainless pipe I have bought. Oh also- ages back when I was stripping out the green Imp (number 3 Imp) I found the build sheet. A neat thing to find... I like this bit...
  20. 12 points
    Still plodding on this, bodywork progress doesnt make exciting piccies. Everything rubbed down And our first coat of primer, alot of sanding to follow. Did I mention this is my first attempt at a full body respray, and first go using 2K? Its new to all of us
  21. 12 points
  22. 11 points
    Captivated my nuts Screwed all the brakes back together Attached the clutch linkage Pulled the manifolds and tightened everything up, put some gaskets in on the flanges. Ordered the wrong choke lever. Not a major as it's not necessary, but looks good. Let out my inner Barry Cheap fix eh I have some steel that would have done the job, but this is funnier and will give someone a lol wat moment years from now Anyway. I bolted it all together. Remembered how to prime an SU fuel pump, started it up, and tuned it enough for a slow idle when hot. A bunch of red liquid spat out of the water jacket gaskets, but this seems to have sealed itself. Exhaust downpipe flange needs to be at a slightly different angle for a gas tight fit. Seems to be really hot. The airfilter backing plates get almost too hot to touch after a few minutes idling with the bonnet up, distributor is also hot but expected (but not ideal as sidevalves kill electronic ignition due to the exhaust valves being directly under it). If anything it should be set up running rich, who knows what the timing is. TL:DR It starts and idles but I need to actually tune it, laptop died a while ago so need another for wideband tuning, but will fettle with SU tuning tools and vac gauges for now. I have a heatshield that came with the set up but is a pita to use as it blocks the manifold studs
  23. 11 points
    Spent a few hours yesterday getting the tubs mocked up.
  24. 11 points
    Been riding this heaps and everywhere and tomorrow off to smash out the southern section of Banks Peninsula
  25. 10 points
    spent today buttoning up the drivers side rear quarter. the other MS75 i bought off Tom came with a full boot cut that happens to have the rear quarters attached. i had a dig around the boot cut rear quarter and it looked to be in pretty good nick so i cut the piece i needed off the boot cut and welded that to the coupe. the eagle eyed among you will notice that the sedan rear quarter is slightly shorter that the coupe, making the back of the wheel arch further back in the sedan than in the coupe. ill make a little piece to bring the wheel arch in line and its done. saved me heaps of time. would have been a few days making all the innerbits and getting everything fitting and welded up. this was way quicker. in other news i put the back bumper together after paint and its a fucking abortion. im fucking embarrassed as to how badly i got the curve wrong between the sedan bumper and the coupe chrome top piece. i dunno what to do with it. either ill re-do the whole thing of just slap it on and fix it when i paint the whole car. not sure but i am sure that its too bad to put a picture of it on the internet. Richie's starlet is arriving here tomorrow to get the engine bay painted so ill be a few days doing that before i can get back into this. i really want to get this thing complied and drive it around, its fucking rad. 2018-12-28_04-22-16 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-12-28_04-22-24 by sheepers, on Flickr
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