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  1. 46 points
    Well this has been stashed away and kept itself quiet a while then eh? however recently things have had a shuffle round here in Datsun land and this little car now has a new owner. Meet Greg. Oldschooler for long time. He is a bit of a Datsun fan and kicks about in a CA18det powered 180b... This is him here.. (not the wombat) A fair while ago I had realised that the restoration of this car was not going to happen in a hurry under my hands and I should really find it a new home. The advert stipulation was that it was to be sympathetically saved and not just split for parts. I had a few people enquire about it but no one actually committed. Then Greg rang. He needed a new project in his life and always liked the shape of this wee car. I was really happy to see it go his way has his ideas for it are pretty much what Id do. Ie; Nice wheels (13".....), lowered and a sweet engine upgrade (13b PP brapper Greg!!! - joke. It has to be an LD28) Greg is gonna take it on as a project to learn some more skills from but to start with I'll sort out some of the more critical nasty bits of corrosion which are a lot easier to deal with having a hoist for starters. Then when he comes up here to pick it up (and deliver my 3rd Imp for me ) we'll do a few welding lessons teach him some hopefully handy skills to help him out the continuation of the repairs. So a couple of months ago (maybe longer..my brain is all muddled up by Imp projects) Hannah and I stripped the Datsun right down to an empty shell. This had to happen so I could get a proper look at the corrosion and not have bits in the way while dealing with it. Typically we found a bit more rot but overall is all pretty easy stuff to deal with. Surprisingly not rot under the windscreen. Very lucky considering the seal leaked and had all the flexibility of a Crunchie bar. I carefully packed it all into our van and we took it down to Gregs on the way to the Oldschool nats. We stayed at my parents on the way through. I just had to get a pic of them holding a wing from a car they bought new but until more recently thought was crushed and not seen in many decades.. Greg now has some stuff to sort through while I start on the shell. Now after having sorted through some other work and dealt with a spot of IMP fettling I started proper on this shell two days ago. First off... those sills. Yuck... I want to get some real strength back in place so then it can be lifted happily on the hoist without fear of crumpling. I started on the drivers side sill. There was a previous repair hiding in here... The rear lower wing that covers the sill looked like this inside.. It looked terrible inside the main sill but luckily once cleaned out the inner is solid. I Painted it in Por15 last night and continued on with the repairs today. The sill tops were really good and the shape was pretty basic too. So many spot weld holes to drill. I must get an air punch/joggler tool! Greg can grind the welds down so saving a heap of my time/money.. The rear arch bit was a slightly awkward shape on the car. Luckily the otherside, although rusty too, has kept its shape enough to copy. Then the outer skin of the lower wing (guard..) which is where I finished off with this evening. In order to stop the thin panel it attaches to above from warping I folded over a tight bend. This will add some stiffness there. The bend faces down so condensation cant collect. Its almost finished enough to start on the other side. I'll be sorting through the repairs so that once Gregs pot of gold runs out he can continue on with less daunting stuff
  2. 34 points
    Went and painted the seat frame and the interior window frames. Terrible photo but came out really well. Awhile ago I made some stainless steel bracket things to hold the airlines down. Did some others to fit further along the chassis but they didn't work well enough so I think I'll just use some P clips. Mounted the airbag height sensors on the 4-link bars. Got them pretty good to the movement needed throughout travel, but then I jacked it up with the airbags inflated and the diff drops further than what the bags pump it up, so it was pulling on the sensors a little. To fix that I made some travel limit straps and got them sewed at a local auto interior shop. These also helped with the rear brake hose that goes from the diff to chassis as there was just too much travel for it. Now that every thing chassis fab related was done (that I know of for now) it was time to strip everything off to the bare chassis. A few hours later and... Now the cab was off it was a good time to sort out the battery tray that I bought in from america to replace the rusty on that was originally there. Once I got the old one off I decided that it would be better to just make a box that bolts in there instead. So drew one up and made it from some 2.5mm ali. Hoping that I can either fit one really big battery or a couple of smaller ones in there, so one can run the air compressors. Flipped the chassis and started to finish welding all the little bits I never fully welded previously, until I ran out of argon, so I made a start sanding it all back and then I ran out of sanding disks for now. I can't decide on what colour to paint the chassis, will be a gloss or metallic of some sort and the front and rear end will most likely be gloss black. So far the decision is gloss black (everyone does that though) a darkish grey either metallic or just 2k. Also have thought about going all out and doing something like purple flake, but I feel like it would just be wasted as hardly any of the chassis will be visible and will cost a bit more.
  3. 31 points
    Yay new project! Sold my AE82 FXGT so I bought this. 1972 Honda N360. Reg on Hold. Bad rust but I hope to be able to fix it. Run's pretty well, bad oil leak. Apparently rebuilt 1000km ago. Currently looking to get parts from Australia to help with the rust.
  4. 25 points
    This little Imp has now got a nice solid floor I really needed to get some solid work done on the Imp so I can get it off the hoist. I also wanted to see the end of a rotten floor so yesterday I decided would be nothing but Imp day (in between important coffee, music listening and posting cat photos on social media of course) Oh and also reading the latest Impressions magazine that arrived ( I joined a club!...) I finished the last bit of rot on the side of the tunnel behind the drivers seat area. Then moved on to the passenger side. Not anywhere near as bad as the drivers side but bad in different places. I pondered for a while at which bits I should keep or chop out. Then I set to work.. Hannah kept busy with an ever so exciting ball joint replacement on a customers van so I could I fritter away on the Imp I remade the wheel well bottom... Then I wheeled over the magic machine and made a snake.. Snake thing goes here... Followed by the beginnings of the firewall heel... The heel bone connects to the floor bone... Before I knew it there was a nice new floor upon which I can mount the MX5 seats I have recently bought Next step while its on the hoist is to deal with the parcel shelf which is rotten. Luckily most of it gets chopped away to allow for the top of the Datsun engine to peek its little head through. I think I'll also be a lovely fella and gift the job of slapping Por15 on the underside to Hannah. Because I'm nice like that.
  5. 24 points
    Imp time. Yay. We went on a road trip south to go to the OS nats. We were going to take the Viva wagon but instead filled the Hiace with Datsun 120Y parts and took them to the new Owner, Greg. With the van now empty we needed to fill it. What better to fill it with than Imp parts. So the next morning while the other oldschoolers were doing circles in some paddock somewhere we went back to this place... As mentioned way back at the beginning of this thread there were Imps a plenty. Not anymore because with the help of Will several have been pulled out, the rest too far gone to save. But there were still parts I wanted. So Hannah and I found ourselves out in the sunshine with our generator and an angle grinder removing stubborn bits. I managed to locate the item I was really hoping to find , the later stronger transaxle which seem to be a bit rarer here in NZ. Happy with that We also got some other parts including a bonnet which although pretty rusty is savable. Didn't take many pics while there. Having too much fun. Here's an Imp.. and another, but sideways.. We took some pics of the Imps that Will had pulled out a while back. Now at his place. The blue one here will be coming up on a trailer when I finish the Datsun 120Y... Here's the red Imp Will extricated with a crane... After all this fun we took off over to Akaroa to join up with all the party goers for the weekend. Among other things Jesus turned up to drink beer and watch a goat race rocker covers.. Back at home now and I assembled my ever increasing lineup of transaxles.. In between other jobs including the Datsun I managed to get a bit done on the shell. I started on what I reckon is the trickiest reair on this car.. the floor. Not having access to any cheap repair panels (the cars left at that yard are worse) I had to just fabricate the sections bit by bit. I'm never one for obsessing about originality, especially on areas that no one will ever see. But I still want it to remain as strong as possible and this area involves many pressed ribs. First off was this little bit that was already cut from the shell by someone previously. Not sure why though? There was some alloy casting bit above it, maybe for a speedo cable to pass through? I welded the section back in place. Lucky they hadn't lobed that bit away. I then cut out the front of the floor. Its a little bit worse for wear.. I made a new section. It was tricky and I was really happy with it.. Then I rolled the very handy stretchyshrinky thing over. I made a little piece.. Which allowed me to move onto the big tricky bit. Tricky because the ribs have tricky to define corners which are hard to measure. I had to get the measurements correct. If any were wrong I would end up with incremental error and it be horrible to adjust later on. Very carefully I measured, marked , folded. I even turned down the music (The Radcliffe and Maconie show since you ask) and got there in the end.. I welded it in and while Hannah braced the underside with a dolly (a metal block, not a Barbie) I hammered the front edges down to create the ends. Then welded it all all. Very strong indeed. From underneath.. and now a solid drivers side floor ... So just a little section on this side at the rear of the tunnel and then over to the other side! Phew.
  6. 23 points
    started blocking it and its coming up really well. ive done the roof and borh rear quarters with only little pain in the arse corners left to do.the only issue so far is where ive touched the wet paint with my trouser leg. there's only a couple of little bits left to do and its good for a light coat of primer then wet sand ready for colour. im calling that a win. 2018-04-26_01-30-13 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-26_01-30-22 by sheepers, on Flickr
  7. 22 points
    I ain’t dead. My flatmate gave it a quick flat and buff while I was in ozzy so it looks a lot better now! Also shortened struts all painted and installed with mk1 golf shocks, cleaned up and under sealed the inner guards before that. ended up taking 2 coils off the Dobi springs to get it to where it needed to be. The ride is great, haven’t bottomed out or come close to it. i put the new 1/4 window rubbers in, they are great. Only thing was that they don’t stay open when hooning along, the rubbers too..rubbery and they spring closed. I could leave them open when it’s parked up to see if it helps mould. I drove to wanaka and back to be a wedding car with a couple of other 1200s. got a wheel alignment the morning I went down but they weren’t happy with it and didn’t charge me..blamed the steering box. (Which is fine and I’m sure has adjustment on the very centre of the top but oh well) Resulted in a pretty shit, bump steery, overcorrecty journey in the wind which was a shame, love that inland road. I’ll take it somewhere else. The trip back was better and with the radar detector on we had some good fangs some revolutions were pulled. Had shit gas in it for the journey but back to good stuff now. this weekend I got a mate at pitstop to chuck a full 2” free flow flanged at the headers with single basic sporty muff box I had laying around that was pretty new. I don’t usually farm out stuff I can do but I fucking rage over exhausts and he did a great job, cheap and quick. Now tucked up nice and tight, has a great rasp and crackle to it and goes better!
  8. 21 points
    I didn't manage my third run of that hillclimb because the rag joint in the steering broke and I had no steering. Luckily it was in the paddock while at low speed, not during a run. Replaced it with a new Nolathane part. Lucky. Anyway, having not crashed it I decided to put a new ECU in it, something I'd been meaning to do for ages. Bought a Link Atom with easy mount kit from NZEFI. I also splashed out on new connectors so the wiring was easy and everything is nice and new. Decided to go to a wasted spark setup as well. It runs! Just need to get it tuned up. I also replaced a headlight with a mesh grill and made a really quick and dirty cold air intake.
  9. 20 points
    Spent a few more hours sanding the chassis down. Once that was done I borrowed a rotisserie off our neighbour and made some brackets that bolted through the bumper mounts. Worked really well, was very balanced and didn't want to spin around by it's self. So then sprayed some epoxy primer down. After much deliberation I decided to paint it with some Hammerite. Since it comes only in certain colours I bought some silver and black and mixed them until it reached a colour I was happy with. Was quite difficult to paint as it was getting lots of overspray on parts I'd already painted and drying too quickly. But eventually got it reasonable enough. Isn't quite as dark as it looks in the photos. Now the chassis is done it was time to start on the front and rear end. Did a bit more welding and tidying up of the front clip, once it was all stripped down. Made some solid mounts for the front since the rubber ones weren't really doing anything as it's already solid mounted. There's quite a few bits to it once it's all in pieces. Going to take awhile to paint it all. Sent the front end to get sandblasted as it's easier to get someone else to do the bigger stuff since it doesn't fit in the cabinet. I did all the little bits which took most of a day. Bought some new brake rotors, pads, shoes and a rebuild kit for the rear calipers locally. Have purchased everything else to rebuild the Jag front from England, which should be here next week hopefully. Gave the rear calipers a tidy up by sandblasting, replacing the seals, better condition slide pins, new pads and a coat of paint. Now they just need new hoses.
  10. 20 points
    Hi guys, So my son passed his test to drive and asked me to make good on the promise of his first set of wheels. He picked a Viva. It's a one family car showing 66k kilometres and I'm guessing it been round at least once if not twice. It's 42 years old and worn out, but all original and no rust. He's been driving it for the last 10 months but the oil leaks was costing me a fortune in oil packs so time to start on it. The plan is to Magnum'ise it with the twin headlight set up. Colour of choice is jet black with an all black interior as well. I've recently just bought from the UK a 7 clock dash (photo below) to replace the original strip gauge. The factory floor console is a bit lack lustre so I'll be making a new centre console to house the new switchgear for the heated seats, power windows, light switch, USB power supply etc. I'm also fitting central locking and an aftermarket rear window demister. Wheels was going to be Cheviot/Aunger 5 slot mags but they are a bit tricky to find in 13". As far as motor running gear goes it was going to be all original but rebuilt. My son isn't into going fast but he is into cool hence most of the budget was to be spent making the car look good. As in really, really, good. However I've come to a bit of a crossroad, in that the cost to rebuild the original motor so far is $2293 and thats not even the whole bill yet. I don't mind paying that (I'm paying for the whole build) but coupled with the fact that the gearbox is totally knackered and I'm thinking its a lot of dosh te do motor and box and end up with 80'ish horsepower. So I'm debating a later model atmo engine/gearbox swap which will probably return a better L/km due to power to weight ratio and a very light right foot. I feel that although he may not want to go fast he should have a bit more power to be able to merge into traffic and generally get the hell out of the way so at this stage I'm leaning towards the SR20DE motor and box. Not one for making rash decisions, I'm going to look into it a bit more over the next week. Must be picture time surely... Here's the lad just after we got the car And the car in the garage, about to begin And the 7 clock dash Discuss here -> https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/58869-james-nz-1976-vauxhall-viva-hc/
  11. 20 points
    Tested the fit of the bonnet, and it closes!!!! I won't need to do a power bugle or anything. Stoked that we could squeeze the big V8 and trumpets under the bonnet. It is going to be such a sleeper. It is pretty tight under the bonnet so I am probably going to go for some slightly smaller trumpets and maybe drop the crossmember and engine down an inch Added even more strengthening, this time on the panhard rod mount And made a gusset for the other side. Ran the rear brake lines. The flex hose connects up to the standard mounting location so I can use the existing brake lines from there. And the other side. You can also see the new upper arms and strengthened lower arms installed
  12. 20 points
    Finished the lower arms. We did some more strengthening by adding a gusset over the top of the lower arm. Painted the Diff Finished all the mounting brackets And the other side Some more progress on the exhaust. Did more of the Y pipe. Started designing my new dashboard. I designed it all in Fusion 360 Then printed it out on one of my 3D printers Did a little test fit. Fits perfectly. I had to print it in 2 parts because it was too large of my 3D printer so I made a little joining plate on the back on the dash. Also those little square bit up the top fit in to where the indicator and other lights used to be so I can screw it in from the back. Installed the carbon fibre wrap. I will see how it looks in the car, might swap it out for just a matte black wrap. Installed it back in to the old housing Cut a whole in the back for all my data and power cables, you can also up the top see my where I screw the front panel on, the old dash was held in by screws on the back of all of the gauges that went in to the old PCB. Tested it with the surround in place, there is still one more part that I need to design for it, which just goes around the side of the surround, where you can see a bit of light coming through
  13. 20 points
    Made some mounts for the gauges. Also made a mount to add some strength between the pedal box and dash. The wiper motor was just dangling around with the single mount so made another that connects it down to the bottom of the dash. Once they were made there wasn't much else that needs access from behind the dash so I welded the dash in. This is the second heater mount I made, the other one didn't look right as it didn't go up as high and wasn't the correct angle. Attached it with some rivnuts on the original firewall stiffeners or whatever they are. Found a high stop light in my pile of parts so decided to make up a bracket to sit on the seat frame. Gave all the dash parts, cowl vent and handbrake a sandblast and rustkill ready to paint. Painted with 2k gloss black. Made up a new brake line mount on the diff because the other one was fairly close to the exhaust. Have ordered a new line and fitting for it. Finished all the lines for the airbags. Here's a video of them working, the back still goes up very quick but that should hopefully slow down once there's more parts/fuel.
  14. 19 points
    Seen as the trans got a rebuild I had to give it a stall test right? well I guess it won't stall cheers m8
  15. 18 points
    Also one of the jobs that needed to be done was the seatbelts they had failed compliance due to not mounted in the factory mounting points and wrong seatbelt type. so the first inspector got it all wrong and said it required 3 point belts which being a pillarless car there is nothing strong to mount the top piece too which the only other belt i can have is lap belts which is a factory option witch this car was not ordered new with. so called @cletus round to have a look and see what could be done. he looked and found that it had factory mounting points that still had the bungs in them since 1964. so i then ordered some seatbelts from https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/ as they are quarter of the cost than from classic seatbelts here in new zealand. used youshop post service as they don't do overseas shipping and arrived at my door a few weeks later. I then mounted two of them in the front using new seatbelt bolts i had around and using factory mounts. I had then organised while i was doing the wheel alignment for @cletus to check the belts and fill the paperwork out to get a seatbelt declaration to state that after being recommended that i put in 3 point belts i am not and keeping the lap belts in place therefor leaving nzta not to blame if any accident is too occur. then a week and a bit later this turned up And also bought a third one so once shes all legal i can put a middle lap belt in using one of each of the mounts as if i had it fitted it a strength plate would need to be added as two belts on one set of mounts. oh and no belts for the rear seat. As then plates would need to be welded in and a cert would be required and im not that concerned about it. Also thanks to ol mate @cletus for sorting this out
  16. 18 points
    Started work on the air cleaner It is going to seal on the bonnet, so the top will be open so you can see the trumpets when I open the bonnet and then the actual air cleaner will be in the firewall at the back of the engine bay. Still need to design the front plate, Not sure if I am just going to just use plain ali or do a logo or something else cool Also test fitted some wheels to see what kind of offset I will need. It is actually a lot less they I thought. I and going to use 15X7 wheels with around a -25 or -30 offset. I think I am still going to have to go steel wheels because I can't find any alloy rims at that offset. If anyone know of any alloys with that much negative offset then let me know. Next up I finished off my dash. I had to recreate this little lip around the bottom of the cluster. So I drew it in CAD And then printed it out Fits perfectly when installed It just closes up this little gap at the back of the dash.
  17. 18 points
    One thing that had always bugged me with this car was the paint. The clear coat on the paint has come off on the bonnet boot and roof and some other smaller areas so it looks like crap. ive decided that the car will not get a respray from me as ive got to many other projects and would rather not know what is below the paint. nor have the time or money to do the job. so to start with i got the compressor with the air duster on it it and blew off the remaining clear coat that was not stuck down as they were the bits that stood out I then used the electric buffer with the sheep wool pad on it and some cutting compound and a mist of water on the surface so the cutting compound would not dry out so now the aim was to restore the current paint as good as i could so this was before any work had been done on it when it was in the USA still which is the best photo comparison for the paint work without looking at it in person so this photo shows the gaurd has been buffed and the bonnet has not i then over a few nights buffed the whole car and having to go over some bits again too And the roof yet to be done in this photo then after buffing the whole car i then buffed on some polishing wax to give it a bit more shine and paint protection And tried on some 17inch cragar's which look crap so now the paint looks a whole lot better than before but is still good from far but far from good. but now to keep it clean as it doesn't get taken in the rain much is just to give it a wipe over with some detail wax and a microfiber cloth and it keeps its shine and helps to stop dust staying on it. now tell me how i should matty B it
  18. 18 points
    Holy shit, how time flies! Been a productive few months adding little touches here and there to the old girl affectionately known a Cristine, named after "that" car... Painted the headlight surrounds and indicator lenses, added some much needed audio, made a tailgate window winder, lowered her on the kingsprings pictured above, bought a personalised plate (also purchased/restyled the OG Black plate so that can go back on if I ever want to) and also got some 14x8 steelies off an old Chevy. There is more shit that I have done but I have no idea where the pics are...
  19. 18 points
    Started on the top bars. Have noticed that 90% of fabbed triangulated 4 links out there are set up opposite to the way I am doing mine. The bars are closer together at the diff end and spread out on the chassis end. Mine is opposite, hmmm. Fuck, hope they work this way also, lol. Spent a bit of time trying to nut out how to go about doing the top bars without going through the balls aching process of making bracket after bracket until something eventually fits. Came up with this. This can virtually replicate any position you want to hang a bar off a diff and then be measured in order to make the final bracket. The piece of turned bright round (the rusty bright round, lol!) is the same width as the rod end bush I am using. Bracket in use. New bracket measured, made and in place. Sometimes I am sooo fucking clever!! Bar made and fitted at diff end. Sounds easy and quick ... but its not. That or i am freaky sloww. Probably the later. Anyway - progress.
  20. 17 points
    painted the boot. wet laid it as usual. im not very happy with the boot floor tbh, good thing it gets covered with carpet. despite the whole thing being sealed up with a coat of brunox its reacted in a couple of places. nothing major but still a pain in the arse anywho i put some paintable texture coat in the bottom of the spare tire well to make it a bit more robust because that area gets a bit of a kicking. also painted the inside of the front scuttle and the inside of the boot lid which came out really well. 2018-05-01_04-16-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-05-01_04-15-55 by sheepers, on Flickr
  21. 17 points
    more jobs on the list have been done one that i didn't really want to open my wallet and get done but it needed to be done. The trans had and issue where it would not go into third gear (top gear) all the time and leaked from every hole bar the front seal. And after talking to the trans shop about it it was decided it had to come out to be fixed. so out it came unfortunately never got a photo of it out but the whole trans and crossmember were covered in fluid and grease so pulling it out was not much fun so off to the trans shop it went And god dam these cruise o matics are heavy also note that amount of metal fillings sitting in the trans pan so pretty much under the whole inspection nothing was found to be damaged just everything worn out and metal fillings through the torque converter and valve body which was the cause of the intermittent top gear fault but the trans had clean fluid in it due to it leaking out it required regular top ups so while the trans shop were waiting on parts from the USA i sent the housings off to get blasted even though the trans shop had already done a good job at cleaning them so this job went to @Mr Vapour before vapour blasting And after then applied some paint to the housing Then went to the job of removing the flex plate Left CRC on it for a few days and gave it a few heat cycles with the map torch Then got it hot and spent about 10 mins with 2 prybars and eventually came off then gave some of my other parts a sand blast and water blast before After a steam clean And painted the trans pan the same colour as the trans housing but no photo of that. after a light sandbast treatment then gave the parts a lick of black paint unfortunately turned out average as i thinned out the paint a bit too much then the parts went back to the trans shop and got it back a few days later looking like this too bad you don't get to see it as its under the car then in the car it went also did wreck abit of the pan paint while getting the trans in on the ground after that i made some new cooler hardlines as the old ones were steel and pretty fucked copper pipe m8 gave it a flare job then proceeded to run it from the front to the trans and using a pipe bender where it needed it and placing p clips to retain the hard line. then 2 lines later i was on to fitting this then bought one of these bad boys as the current setup was through the radiator which isn't super efficient and mounted it in front of the radiator which seems to cool it alot better than what it did before then filled the trans with this stuff ended up using about 8 liters could've used dexron 3 but type f runs no additives so is abit better for the trans friction material. so cheers too @Mr Vapour on the great blast work and quick turn around And thanks to Auckland Automatics for doing a great job and emptying my wallet
  22. 17 points
    Any felixx is a good felixx my friend.
  23. 16 points
    Praying Mantis Finished these. Hope those AE92 Calipers fit without hitting the top arm. Initial look/see indicates it might be close. Big bum. Everything seems to fit ok but its early daze, lol! Fuck, I hope I don't come across something that fucking daze's me out, haha! Ride the Serpent Reached milestone. Now need to do some measuring, visualizing and planning re how to go about future stages. Happy with stuff though.
  24. 16 points
    Hippy trailer now evicted and time to do some on this before a big dirty Toyota Dyna van turns up with a rotten roof The sills on both sides are all solid again! I was halfway into the passenger side on my last update. So continuing from there.. I had to remake the bottom of the outer A pillar/sill end first. I was going to re-use a tricky step down part within the repair but even after cleaning it up it just didnt appear solid enough among all the new steel. In pictures.. I then folded up some more outer sill panels, using the gauge/template I had made for the other side and started welding them in.. When I got down to the other end I had some issues I needed to tend to. Mainly to see what was going on behind the bottom of the where I had cut the rotten arch away to and also what lay beneath a frilly looking area inside the well. I called in my new toy/tool. A teeny tiny holesaw for removing spot welded panels. Cheap on Aliexpress.. I went deeper.. ..and deeper. How many layers?.... Not surprised there was rot lurking. So many moisture traps. So I started fixing it all up.. I could now finish the last section of sill.. Then the final bit- the lower guard. On both sides of the car these had rotted away from crap getting through a gap at the front where they overlay the sill. I painted the back with zinc and welded the front edge on both sides. Its not like original but going by the amount of dirt and water traps Ive found original wasn't best. Just cheap. This along with a future flooding of wax penetrant inside the once the car is all painted and it should last much better Its all done. Yay. Now I have to replace a section of floor where it meets the inner sill- rot had been cut away. Then I think while the car is on the table I'll tend to a horrible mess under the dash that was once a heater plenum area. Then it can go up on the hoist to fix a rotten chassis rail. Greg will be taking it on from not long after that, budget soon to be met. But first I must finish some bits on the Imp project so I can remove that from the hoist.
  25. 16 points
    Finshed doing one of the jobs i was going to do then half assed fixed it then decided i will fix it properly as would of most likely bite me in the ass if i didn't power steering pump was leaking out of the front seal so put some morey's in there and no more leaky but the pump pulley ran way out of true and to the point i knew something was worn and fucked so off it came. had got a seal kit out of rockauto for this job seen as they are the cheapest. then stripped the pump into as many pieces as it could be I then found that it had bushes and they were worn out so i stopped in to my local transmission and steering parts supplier (being tranz) to see weather they had any bushes or not but they didn't but spent some time sharning as they got an ex trans and steering mechanic there so he gave me some tips on the pump And told me where to get the bushes. oh and also gave me the bush sizes off the top of his head so went to seal imports with a bit of paper with the size needed and job done. so ended up getting some teflon coated bushes rather than the standard brass bushes as they are easier to fit and much nicer on the pump components when wear occurs. I then removed the old bushes and prepped the pump for fitting new seals and bushes by using some wet and dry sandpaper A flat surface being a tyre machine being the most ideal And some wurth rust off for the lubricant so we do this by moving the item you are sanding in a figure 8 shape so that the item gets sanded EVENLY And then the otherside too so now the both sides are hand machined flat so the seal will seal! I then also polished up the main pump shaft as it had score marks from the worn out bushes and years of use. Ran it up on the lathe and sprayed the wet and dry sandpaper with rust off again and used the sandpaper to polish the marks out. I then threw the parts in the blasting cabinet and gave them a sandblast at home I then fitted the new bushes and new seals and the rest of the stuff back into the pump And gave the components a lick of paint. ended up coming out super average being from a spray can. should've just bought some white and sprayed in my spray gun. then joined the two halfs back together And then at this point when i fitted the pulley realised the internal hole in the pulley had worn out offset. so off so saeco wilson so buy a blank pulley in the same size. then sent the pulley off to a engineering shop to have the pulley offset hole size and keyway done on the pulley. Done to a tight fit mate also notice in the photo how worn that pulley is! the key way had mostly worn away. I then prepped and sprayed the new pulley black. then used the oxy acetylene to heat the pulley to expand the pulley enough so it would nicely fit onto the shaft. being that it was a machined fit. then refitted back onto the car and bleed the system. so i now have a good functioning pump with no more wobbly pulley. I also added some morey's back in too as the steering control valve is leaking also.
  26. 15 points
    So i was now at the point where i was talking to my panel beater about my rubbish panel And already being past the engineers cut off date for a recheck only for compliance which was the 28th of February and we are now the 10th of march ( As my posts are well overdue) so i took the car in left it with him and uber'd home so this gave him time to put the car in the workshop which was on a monday then went back that evening to drop the fuel tank out for him to keep my bill lower and spin some yarns. I also took the trunk pan i bought to him to see if he could make it work as i stated the amount and hassle it owed me And i think he felt a bit bad about it too as he had recommended me to order a GOOD one from the USA as others had too He then flicked me a texted early Wednesday morning saying it was done following with a photo and invoice. paid 80 percent of the invoice and left the remaining as i couldn't see the numbers properly on the photo invoice he had sent. and planned to come pick it up friday evening. went in friday evening with some burbons to place the tank back in and put the drained gas in and unloaded off the axle stands. done that then explained about the payment i had done when he asked and said i would put the rest through tonight then spun some yarns and drank some beer he supplied and drove the old girl home. And this was the job he did for me. And he didn't end up using my panel as it wasn't going to work. so he made one from some flat 1.3mm zintech steel and used a Trekka swage die to make the swages which is one of these so now my car has Trekka designed floor pan swages in it. but was overall very impressed with the job And the price was fair considering the work involved and is a two man job to weld it in place. And the quick turnaround And also A+ YARNS so thanks to Tony at custom metalshapers LTD In East Tamaki for doing the job.
  27. 15 points
    Filled and reprimed today - a little more fill and sanding and it should be good to top coat
  28. 15 points
  29. 15 points
    paint. i wire wheeled all the screen rebates and put brunox on them. then i masked it up and put heaps of hi build primer on it. it looks pretty good, ill start blocking it tomorrow and see how the shape starts coming up. 2018-04-25_04-11-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-16 by sheepers, on Flickr
  30. 15 points
  31. 14 points
    So I was hinting at it but today I picked up the thing. It's pretty tidy overall. Runs, drives, stops all good. Steering is vague and seems like a shit load of play in the steering box but brakes are good, sounds good, goes good. I need to check out one of the carbs as it has some problem with the choke hat causing a giant air leak when it's on. Also need to remove that funky intake and put trumpets on as well as give the engine a good bit of brake kleen. Flatmate reckons it should probably be OK for roadworthy without too much dramas so once I've fixed up the couple bits I'll send it in. Oh, also it runs on after I turn it off so have to figure out why that is. Could be carb or timing related perhaps.
  32. 14 points
    It spent a while parked up at @Goat's place which gave me time to think about what I should do with it. The 250 donk was good but maybe not good enough this time around so a plan was formed. In the past I had an FT500, which was basically an XL500 engine with electric start, it was a blast to ride but a little ugly and I sold it before doing much with it. I always wanted another big single so when I found out a 500 would nearly bolt straight in to the RS frame that became the plan. So before I had seen the bike IRL I picked up this An XR500 lump. To fit it needs a new top bracket and to have the rear RS frame bolts sleeved to fit the engine. Also the XR's are 6V with a tiny stator but luckily the RS stator and ignition swap straight on giving me 12V and better charging.
  33. 14 points
    Picked this thing up with the help of @GuyWithAviators few days back. Lowest KM Passola out. 33 genuine KMs from new in 1983. The original owner bought it, drove it 5kms and crashed it. The grandkids did a couple laps of the property on the grass then it was parked away for 34 years. Fast forward to now. We got it running day one, but it has a few gremlins, which I think are mostly attributed for sitting so long. Some hoses are buggered and the float was letting all my fuel out. Anyway, here's two quick pictures as I'm still angry at it after getting a literal ear full of fuel - fuck me that burnt, and is still stinging.
  34. 13 points
    Been awhile since last post. Ditched the tridents. Looks better original. Now that it sits level, ill leave the rear springs in. Besides, the tyres on the tridents rubbed on the guards too easily Problem solved with originals. Full brake rebuild, that i dont even want to talk about! Mechanics too busy and im sure i do a better job taking care. So i managed it myself. Purchased master cylinder, slave cylinders, rear shoes, quality front pads. Removed calipers and took them to local garage for inspection. Disassembled & cleaned, nothing else needed. Looked like they had been rebuilt recently. (front pads and rear shoes looked fairly unworn i noticed too) gave them the rotors so they could be resurfaced. argh. had to be done on the vehicle. off to buy new wheel bearings. might aswell. everything else on the front has nearly been replaced. 45yr old bearings or new? hmm why not new, they looked old. Rotors showed signs of original machine marks. Those drum brakes! Reassembling them was like a jigsaw puzzle. 11am - 11pm on a saturday.. yeah fun. couldnt figure it out, those springs are annoying. in the end i gave a mate a call @ 7, who has done a few brake jobs. couple of hours later, nearly there. but there is always something! the last side, the brake adjuster was jamd solid. Wouldnt undo, tried a bit of heat and snapped the locator slot. Thankfully scored 1 to match from Aging Autos. hmm, it was left hand thread lol We'd been trying to move the jamb adjuster right hand. no matter, it works Pulls up and stops way better then beforehand. no more front wheel lock up on the left side. then next was to sort the steering. After the balljoints, tierods, draglink, idler was replaced along with the springs. i noticed the steering had twice as much play, more like driving a cruiseliner. There was play in the steering box arm. Out comes the box and off to PG hydraulics. 30min to make an adjustment and the play is gone. Reinstall into the vehicle, test drive. hmm, its better but still there is play..getting tired of chasing nice steering. Took the car back to PG Hydraulics and explained there was still play. Maybe they'd have an idea. Popped the hood for the guy to have a look. 2 mins later, he explains the reason. The steering was out of alignment with the box, due to the tie rod ends being installed incorrectly. There werent put on at equal lengths so that the steering box is centered. Said to bring it back the following week for him to sort it. however, i was going on a roadtrip and preferred the best steering as the play would be annoying. So he made time and spent an hour sorting it out the next day. Finally everything sorted, in time for a roadtrip down the Eastcoast to Wellington via palmy, up the west side. 2400Km, trouble free. Plenty of corners, straights, hills. A good test drive to run the engine in and enjoy the brakes and steering. For a 308 with a cam and HEI, it has a lil bit of pep and just keeps pulling. Managed to catch the 70,000 roll over. Back to times past by.. To be continued......
  35. 13 points
    So as mentioned earlier, the front end got a tidy up with a coat of paint. This should help the leaking oil clean off easier in future. One benefit of these engines is the fact that they were developed and modeled off the Vauxhall slant engine, which includes the exact same mounting points on the block, so it was a simple case of swapping the Vauxhall mounts onto the Lotus block to set the engine up in the same location. This was really important to me as it meant that the gearstick location would end up in the same position as before, but more importantly the driveshaft length stayed the same with no need for any mods. (I was already running a W50 gearbox behind the Vauxhall engine, so the yoke matches too) This the first fit to subframe. Note the exhaust manifold was removed by now as it fouls the mounts and can't be used. I had hoped I could avoid the need to replace these simply to keep the initial cost down and replace it later with some headers. So it just means I have to do it sooner rather than later now, likely to be in S/S. I am going to attempt mocking up a set of extractors while the engine/subframe are out of the car as it's so much easier to get around, and then have them made off site, we'll see how that goes...this is a pic of the header flange I have had laser cut in MDF to check fitment, which once happy with will be sent to engineering shop to be cut from 10mm plate. Of course I would like to just buy a set of these...anybody want to chip into a GoFundMe account?? Worth a shot...but don't they look sexy??!! A couple more pics of first fit. Although it looks good here, the sump is actually touching the cross-member. The Lotus block is quite a bit wider at the bottom end than the Vauxhall, so there will be no avoiding cutting the sump to make clearance. The headers you see at the bottom of the photo are a spare set I have from friendlyfire's Chevette from when he had a Vauxhall engine in that. I was hoping I could possibly adapt these for this conversion, but they would require changing so much that I may as well start fresh, in S/S. I gave the cam covers a tidy up around this time too by carefully sanding the paint off the raised lettering etc, which looks way better. They really need refinishing and will be done at a later stage as not a high priority at the mo. May change the colour also, any suggestions? The orange filler cap will have to go too. So before tackling the issue of the sump I want to check my theories that the engine/gearbox would sit in the right position and clear the bulkhead etc. I rolled the assembly under the car for the first time and carefully lowered the car back down onto it. By the way, I am not lifting the car from the slam panel, as it might look like here, I am lifting it via a heavy steel tubing that is tucked under the chassis rails you can just see in the next pics. Almost there... And in! Yes, the bottom cam housing is millimetres away from the bulkhead and too close to leave like that, which I have a plan for. But hey, it's in! Next the sump cut.
  36. 13 points
    So, time for an update on this ongoing build, just getting my pics in order from the last year or so and will drop a bunch on here soon with some wordage. Meantime I'll add a teaser for now...cue sexy music...
  37. 13 points
    Tray back on. Still handled bad on the road, better than with no swaybar but still junk. Figured out main problem was due to the lack of rebound dampening in the shocks combined with the dual rate springs. Basically how it was setup, if were going around a corner and hit it bump, it would hit the 2nd spring rate (which is over double primary) and bounce back. making the truck wobble like a bowl of jelly. Manged to get it to work alot better with some adjustments. Backed off the adjusters on the rear shocks so pretty much never hits the 2nd rate on the road. so there is no sudden change in spring rate. Letting the swaybar do its thing to control the roll. Tried the same with the front shocks, which did make it better but more body roll. Then went full retard and set it up so the front is on the 2nd spring rate at ride height. Surprisingly this worked sweet with alot less body roll. I need to drive something else for awhile, then test it out again before decide if its good enough. or if i was just getting use to driving a deathtrap. Offroad; again, surprisingly it rips in the paddock now. less roll and still soaks up the bumps good. rear rides nicer due to the later spring rate change. Because boring ramble: Put a light bar on it, because some gezzer on nz offroader said it would make it more capable off road and pick up the ladies Not gonna ever use it,, just a gimmick to scare 4wd barrys
  38. 12 points
    Driving the other day I noticed it wasn't pulling as smoothly as normal, so replaced the fuel filter again (still evidence of a bit of shit in the system) so will keep keeping an eye on that side of things. I really should pull the pickup out of the tank and give it a clean out too, although from what I can gather its just a tube down into the tank with no filter or anything (as it doesn't run a lift pump) so likelyhood of blockages there are pretty slim. Also had a fiddle with my diddle the fuel screw and wound it up in increments until I was just getting a hint of smoke on full noise. Has definitely made it a bit peppier and comes on boost better as well. Fuck I love this thing.
  39. 12 points
    After the test it was 10 questions down at the cop shop, one of which was "which direction should a pillion passenger face?", then I had my learner license, such freedom, many badass. A while later a friend got his license and bought a Suzuki NZ250 (with double overhead cams!) but the RS punched above its weight for a single and we had many neck and neck races down SH2 from Upper Hutt to Wellington, both flat on the tank but neither able to pull away. There were crashes but minimal injuries, I binned mine twice on roundabouts trying to corner too fast, my friend launched his into my neighbours hedge by accident but my biggest stack was on a bike holiday on the west coast with Dad and John. We were heading south towards Murchison and had just stopped for a break, John was on his GSX1100 and the old man on his Kat 750 and me on the RS wearing my favourite Korn t-shirt. We had just set off again when a fuckwit wasp stung me on the neck then got down my jacket and got me a few more times. This put the shits up me as only a couple years before I had been stung on my foot and it swelled up like a loaf of bread. I remember specifically how painful it was as I went to see The River Wild the same day and it was hard to concentrate on Meryl Streeps rafting skills, so I thought my neck was going to swell up and potentially choke me. Rather than stop and waste time I thought I would ride fast so we could get to Murchison and find some antihistamines or something. I was laying it right into corners and holding a good pace when I got caught by a double apex corner that dropped downhill to the right and tightened up. I tried to hold it, foot touched the road first, then the peg, then the exhaust then it went earth sky earth for a bit. Luckily/unluckily the bike hit a post so we didn't go off the side of the road but it wrecked the forks, rim and tyre. Thankfully I got away without any injuries and just some decent scrapes on my helmet and jacket. I completely forgot about the stings in the aftermath, once we realised I was ok it was more about what to do with an unrideable bike far from home. Not even 15 minutes after the crash an old dude pulls up in a flatbed truck asking if we need help, he then offers to take the bike to Nelson and ship it back to Wellington for us! He yarned how someone once helped him after he ran out of gas while crossing the Nullabor so he was happy to do all he could. Another 15 minutes later and we are watching the crippled bike disappear into the distance as we reshuffle our gear onto the two remaining bikes.
  40. 12 points
    Im a creature of comfort I have came to realize as I grow older and my waste band wider. So it goes without saying that I want a ride that is quiet enough to think and warm enough to have my gal showing off her legs in a short skirt next to me on the bench seat. Well quiet when I want it to be/side pipes are capped. To help achieve this level of sloth I chose “Lizard Skin” for my heat and sound deadening. Inside and out. Part of the attraction admittedly is the fact its so bloody easy to apply, cleanup and will go anywhere you can spray it even under the dash with its 90′ nozzle. Write ups of the stuff all sounded promising. The ceramic heat one has a video of a hot plate. Half coated in LS and the other untreated. ice on either side with the treated side not melting at all. Anyway to cut to the point we sprayed the under side first with the sound deadening Lizard Skin. Has a special gun with a large nozzel and sprays about a softball sized pattern. Layed a few coats of this down the first day with cleanup being simple as a wash n wipe down with water. Next day went in with the ceramic heat coating and again it splatted on nice and easy. You can find out more about the stuff if you are interested here. Went in and hooked up the diff and chucked in the bags front and back. With that done we threw on the Fuel, Brake and Air Lines. Bolted down with Rubber insulated P clamps every 300mm. Currently trying to figure out what to do for drive shaft.Thinking two piece. front section fixed. Then D shaped bearing and the second piece sliding to allow for the diff travel as it raises and lowers from the bags. Also working out where we will run the exhaust. Looking at 2.25″ pipe. more on that latter though unless anyone has some insight.`
  41. 12 points
    So, summer is over - which means I no longer need a summer boat project. The Wolseley therefor must find a new home. She did her duty as a wedding car with 4 bridesmaids in the back. Suspension was so soft that we had smoke due to rubbing*. Something else caught my eye at Nats, which gave further push to get this thing gone. Picture dump below. She'll be on the market tomorrow for some old British Barry Boat foamer to take on. The number plate is probably my favorite bit. Boobs For Bond - double d's 4 007. *Tyre rub - not bridesmaid.
  42. 12 points
    Visited the Basis shop in Renwick and got a new fuel sender gasket, and some new pinch weld trim (not the furry stuff at $30 a metre though) Met some tourists in Cheviot (where the wheels don't come from) Conducted a sneaky search for more door locks, but nothing good was found. Natsed And returned home. Finally picked up the keyed lock (locksmith had a good gripe about weirdly engineered British locks) and fitted it this week. Can now lock the car fully, but only unlock it from the passenger side. Will have to do for now. Wagon went well on the whole, used a few litres of oil on the trip - I'm guessing we did close to 2000km though). Never failed to start except on the way home at Seddon. I think driving all day with lights+heater fan+CB+cellphone chargers exceeded the capacity of the generator. Started fine when we left the ferry later. Needs a WOF soon.
  43. 12 points
    With the soft springs and lack of rebound valving truck tends to do this.. watch very end, kinda missed it. Not turning in the vid, my crappy ali fish eyed camera just makes it look like its a corner. its ok in 4wd, just does it in 2wd under power. but tbh don't really care that it does it under power. mostly the body roll around corners is a bit extreme . enter "offroad swaybar" kit. its basically a weak swaybar that can handle high travel. not sure how well its going to work, will find out the hard way like usual. Had to relocate the limit straps again , 4th time??
  44. 11 points
    YUSSS! My first package has arrived I was worried about customs.
  45. 11 points
    Designed an Avenger Hydra logo and 3D printed a couple of different sizes and colours Tested them on the tailgate of the wagon. Not quite happy with the H so modified it a bit. Still not happy so gave it another tweak but I may go back to the drawing board. If any one know a font with a cool looking H then let me know Pulled out a collection of old badges sitting around to see if any of them suit the car. Ended up quite liking this pentastar on the front of the air cleaner. Here is a view from further back Also tried the Chrysler badge on the other rocker cover. Looks pretty cool. I might design and print something more in the same font as the other side. I will probably leave the Quad Cam V8 on the other rocker cover so it might look nice if they both match. Ordered the air cleaner. It is freaking massive. K&N RD-1450. 7 in (178 mm) Diameter, 6 in (152 mm) Height, 4 in (102 mm) Flange It is actually going to sit inside the cabin. Where the heater used to be.
  46. 11 points
  47. 11 points
    Got Gauges all working. Wiring tided up and put a new wheel on. Hopefully go for cert in mid May..
  48. 11 points
    Hmmmm.......one of these things is not like the other.... It does make me think if this was one of the reasosn it was taken off the road. It looks at some stage like someone has tried to get it out of reverse and into neutrl without the use of the key which, as we all now know, is mechanically impossible when the key has been removed. Anyway, I'll have to come up with a cunning way of disassembling the assembly and either straightening or replacing the effected bits. In other news I took the 10 minutes between house and family stuff to finally get the key barrel moving, so we can now move it around to start.....so if I can talk the Sharners Apprentice ( @Carsnz123 ) into visiting and showing off his Lazarus skills we may even be able to produce some smoke!
  49. 11 points
    Holden came back friday, had just about forgotten about it! Got some sweet rostyles plus some brown door cards and an 80's shaft-radio off @Threeonthetree, nice to meet you Neal! unbelievably (and probably in a fit of jealousy) my marina failed to proceed after coming back from auckland, sputtered and died in my driveway! Not too sure whats up with it, poor spark. Anyhow here's some pics from the beater, am hoping to have this thing complete in 2019, much work awaits
  50. 10 points
    Sooo decided about a fortnight ago I needed to rip into this XR and give it a good tidy up, have ordered all new bearings and bushes, fork kits etc. gunna just tidy everything and bring it back to its former glory but not with the red seat and blue features The stripping really is the easy part. I have all alloy bits a good buff with scourer pads and a very casual low effort polish once the frame was completely bare I sent it to the sandblasters and then straight to powder coat where it has a phosphate rust cover, a zinc rust preventative powder coat and then an arctic white UV resistant top coat Even managed to get the engine back in without chipping anything.
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