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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/09/20 in all areas

  1. 53 points
    Been a long time no update but anyway thanks to Stu and Sheepers and Nick the Sparky this is where we are at. Weird. Went pretty smoothly, it's spooging a bit of oil out the breathers on the top but I guess once it's run in that'll settle down or it'll just keep doing it cos 4AG life. I have 5 forward gears, a clutch that works and some brakes so with a few hours checking things and tidying up small jobs there's nothing stopping me from going for a wee drive. Oh the thermostat doesn't seem to be opening but that's not really a big deal to sort out hopefully, it might just be old and stuck, or new and stuck, as the case is.
  2. 40 points
    So sheepers popped around, we did a bit of a bolt check, clipped all the fuel and brake lines up and then the above happened. How cool. The tune is only very beginning stages so I couldn't give it any real beans under load yet, but ambling around on part throttle was super great. The brakes feel awesome, as does the suspension. Things to look at include (and this is for my reference): - fix/adjust clutch so shifting is hopefully easier - move exhaust to drivers side so muffler is away from rear passenger side wheel - resolve tacho and speedo not working - roll rear guards cos she rubs a bit - driveshaft loop - secure and install battery box - seat mounts (for lush lush lush new interior) - diff is noisy, change out worn CW & P for a good spare set I have - get it aligned properly That's really about it for the moment. Not bad all things considered, the only stock mechanical component on the car is the steering column and rack!
  3. 38 points
    Well because I have a couple of updates worth of advance progress to use up before I have to actually start tinkering again here is another 'update'.. So I had sussed out my oil pump drive. Cool. Lets ignore the tensioners for now...mainly because I have not actually fitted the ones I have - this will be one of the next jobs once Hannah and I finish the workshop mezzanine main structure mentioned in the last post. I know they should work but I wanted to skip ahead to other more fun bits. Sort of like eating your meat before finishing the vege. I needed to join these to assemblies together, neatly and most importantly - completely accurately. I had completed some rather fine looking sketches in pencil of how I might fabricate something, along with measurements compiled by the time honoured tradition of starting at set datum points and then using a selection of various rulers, verniers, bits of string, bluetack, tape measures and a bit of eyeballing to suss out the positions of a new flywheel, seal housing, clutch height, starter pinion position at rest and at full extension. It was all going to be made up along the way but I still needed some datums to work to and from. The main thing I knew the position of and that I could not change was the end of the crank and my added on adaptor with its seal landing. I also had a nice flat, square face on the back of the engine - the flange to which the old clutch and gear housing bolted to. I needed to start with that and work out towards the Subaru gearbox. The Subaru gearbox does not really have a full length bellhousing as such. It normally bolts onto another section of housing that is bolted to the Subaru engine. This was fine because I was going to make my own housing extension that suits both the Honda engine flange and the Subaru box, with a depth to suit a custom flywheel and the clutch. But the flywheel offset was not a known thing yet because I had not yet secured a clutch to use. That's another story and I'll cover that with the flywheel. I'll mention now though that I almost made a complete balls up in clutch pressure plate selection. An easy mistake because its not normally something one would ever need to think about when looking at clutches. See if anyone can guess it? Go on - have a go.... Anyway- back to my flange plate assembly. So the most important thing to keep bang on is that the input shaft is concentric with the crankshaft and this is how I did it. I started with a plate of 6mm thick aluminium, cut larger than the back of the engine and front of the box. I made a pretty damn big hole in it with a large holesaw. It had to be much bigger than the rear main seal I had bought to suit my crank adaptor... Then I machined down a big lump of alloy bar to fit into the hole perfectly. I machined it with a large flange so it could be bolted to the plate. Pushed into the plate and then drilled the flange and tapped the holes. The flange was dot punched while on so its always bolted back up to the same holes after removal. I fitted the flange back into the lathe, drilled and bored it out to fit the gearbox input shaft snug... Now I was able to slide the whole lot onto the box. Luckily these boxes have a decent bearing supporting the input shaft so there is no up and down movement (unlike the Imp box which has a two piece input shaft and wobbles all over the place) I machined a couple of centre punches that tightly slid into the gearbox bellhousing bolt holes, enabling my to accurately mark the bolt holes onto the plate... Now I had a plate that lined and bolted up perfectly concentric to the gearbox input shaft. Now to mark and drill another set of holes on the back of this plate to suit the engines flange. I removed the flange and bored it out to slide onto the crank adaptor seal land snugly. With the flange bolted back onto the plate I was able to slide the lot onto the engine, concentric, and repeat the marking process with yet another set of centre punches machined to suit. Then drill the holes to suit... I did have to add a little extension to reach out to one pesky bolt hole that refused to stay within my square... Now I had a plate that was bolted to the engine, bang on concentric, which had another set of holes to suit the bellhousing. I would connect the bellhousing to this plate with machined bars, of a depth that I was yet to finalise. I knew roughly what they would be, around 40mm, but could not confirm this until I had made my flywheel and the clutch to suit it had arrived. That'll be in the next update. In other news- I have been a little undecided about which ECU route to go down. I was planning to build either a Speeduino or go with Megasquirt again. I had started buying the bits for a Speeduino ages ago (I already had a board I had bought from @kws and from aliexpress I bought the main arduino cpu the runs it, an ATmega 2560, plus scored some other bits from @NickJ) but I still wasn't convinced about Speeduino for this application, as tempting as the possible sub $200 price might be. My Main reason against it was because I really would like to run this engine with full sequential injection. However the Megasquirt that offered this on more than 4 cylinders, along with a couple of other non big brand name options were just too expensive for what I want to throw at the project. But then last week I ended up buying a megasquirt 3 with an expansion card at a price I couldn't turn down. I'm stoked about this because I know Megasquirt well and I like the support plus I like using Tunerstudio (which is also used for Speeduino but with a couple of features left out) . I'll leave the Speeduino for something else in the future (the quad bike! ) Oh and after having ordered these uprated valve stem seals from Norway of all places in July they finally arrived yesterday. 2 months! Ha. My new headgaskets and cambelts have also arrived so I've pretty much got the bits I need to through it back together when the time comes.
  4. 37 points
    All back together now. Had a turbo shit off a time getting the heater hoses back on because some idiot stuffed a huge motor right in the way. New clutch (remember that, the reason we pulled it apart in the first place) is really good, it's a tiny bit grabby at take off but it's not really bedded in at all so I don't know if this will get better or worse. Also i have connected the boost control pipes around the wrong way so it's free boosting up to about 30psi. Easy fix that. I drove it to work.
  5. 36 points
    Another 2 done. Worked well. I think 4 paper weights is enough for now. Time to move on to something big! For reference of where it goes. Houses cam gearing.
  6. 35 points
    Well the 808 made way to make way for this...... By a chance conversation at Chrome 2020 I found out about this car, 1973 Mazda RX3 Coupe. Complete car minus a motor, Cars been baremetalled, rust done and most of the prep for paint has been done which is awesome. Came with a heap of extra parts and upgrade parts including -S5 RX7 gearbox -B2000 LSD diff thats been narrowed, with RX8 Rear calipers/rotors -Front coilovers -Factory suspension and diff as well -Lots of new bushes, rack ends, lights, badges etc etc Cars been real well done this far in and perfect base to build how it want and do it once and do it properly. Tell me im crazy and iv got a big job ahead of me here haha
  7. 32 points
    So when i first looked at the car right before Auckland Lockdown V2 it was a bare shell on a chassis dolly, The previous owner spent a bit of time during lockdown and put the panels back on, factory suspension and steering and diff in and got it mobile again for me. He packed the car with as much as he could then when I picked it up the ute tray and back seat was chocka with bits as well for the trip home!
  8. 27 points
    Since last update i've just been driving it and enjoying it. well, as much as you can enjoy and automatic 4M but whatever.... its fast approaching time to paint this car. and with that in mind its time for some new wheels. rear wheels that have a neg 15 offset so they wont fit on the back. only one thing for it, narrow the diff. ive had this disk brake diff lying around for ages and its time to use it. to do so i need to remove about 15-17mm per side. this small amount means i dont have to do anything to the axels save trim about 10mm off the end. ansd as far as the housing goes, all i need to do is move the spring perches. everything else can move in with the ends. the lower control arms will just need to have a bit of flex in the bushes and ill make a shorter panhard rod for it and everything is gravey. pictures of things, checking i could push the axels 15mm further into the spiders. 2020-09-22_08-44-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-22_08-45-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 15mm cutting guide, 2020-09-22_08-45-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-22_08-45-24 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-22_08-45-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-22_08-45-40 by sheepers, on Flickr
  9. 27 points
  10. 26 points
    Forgot a shifter linkage bracket bolted up to the trans pan. The original had an L shaped spacer plate on the thin steel pan... I won't need that with the thicker alloy flange, but the bracket fouled the welds on the alloy pan, so I filed some off it... And fits ok... It looked heaps thicker and I was worried it would throw the alignment out, but was only 3mm more than the original so should be fine... And realised I'd left the engine plate and flywheel off, so lifted it off the stand, was happy to do this as I'd forgotten to grease the tube and it was a bastard to rotate... And scrubbed the surface rust off the plate... And it cleaned up nice... So flywheel and plate back on, pretty much ready to mate up to trans when things are torqued up...
  11. 26 points
    Some minor progress on making things a bit lighter and a bit fancier. Made a new shifter with a 3d printed dissolvable inner and some carbon sleeve. Turns out nice this way because there are no seam lines like you get with flat sheets. I was grizzling about how that bottom bracket seems heavier than it needs to be too, but then I remembered I've got the SQ Engineering relocation kit thing so that gets replaced too. And then to the most important part of anything I'm involved with, max effort for negligable differences and pointless graphs: I couldnt find the old gearknob but I think I remember Nic saying it was about 60 grams. and missing one of the bolts which are 20 grams so around 1400 all up. "That's fine dave, thanks, I can see difference from the pics" No, no, I insist Also bought a brand new OEM Silvia 6th gear kit finally. Looking forward to those sweet sweet sub 3000rpm cruising speeds... What fuel economy dreams are made of. Still no progress on getting a new shed built before I can do any major stuff needed, so probably a few other random additions like this in the meantime.
  12. 25 points
    Im just hitting shit with a hammer and its working for once
  13. 25 points
    Now the caveat here is that I'm a mechanic, not a body work or paint guy but I think I done gone did alright if I do say so myself Flat sanding and buffing the car didn't quite go so smoothly, I managed to buff through a few spots with the woolen pad(my old man later informs me that he shouldv'e given me the foam (pleb) version instead And from this point is where it all went a little pear shaped (and I stopped taking photos) Because I'd run out of red I needed Dad to get me some more for the touch ups, now I sent him a photo of the label on the paint he had originally got me. He brought out a 250ml tin, took the lid off and checked it against the car "yep thats it" (he was originally an autopainter by trade, so I made the mistake of believing he could still see colour) I prepped all the touch up spots and gave them a lick of colour. Now somehow I managed to pull off spraying all the touch ups perfectly, no runs, no dusting, good coverage, excellent! buuuut after the paint dried I had a some very orangey red spots on an otherwise red car..... Out came the D/A and off came the paint. Now on my second attempt with the correct Red I think the rag I was using to wipe down the car must have had some sort of contamination because nearly all the repairs fish eyed in spots. I've sanded and buffed most of them good now but my motivation at the time was quickly waning. I ended up repainting the entire boot lid twice because the first attempt fish eyed badly and that is pretty much where motivation cease. The bootlid still needs to be rebuffed when I find some CBFs. In binning the Ironmask front from this car I decided to try out the Wagon quad light set up. I had to trim the chrome off the bottom for it to work with the kouki bumper I have since painted the front bar, grill and all the side trims in black as well, I need to find a better facelift rear bar as mines pretty out of shape (anyone?) Oh and @Brdflu lent me his front lip, of which I repaired and made a mould This Is also now black. Anywho, thats enough spamming from me, hopefully I summon some motivation and get back into it, otherwise I'll see you all in 2 years Discussion, advice and suggestions welcomed: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57362-beaubots-1982-er30-skyline-sedan/
  14. 25 points
    Essentially ready for a warrant check now. Almost everything seems to work as it is supposed to. Yeah sweet.
  15. 25 points
    Made an upgraded bait launcher / spud gun. Should work well Twin 100mm stainless tanks, each able to be isolated separately. 50mm stainless irrigation valve, modified to be released via push button trigger. Its a tad overkill haha.
  16. 24 points
    @Dudley Gonna be jealous of my panel beating skills. Only using a builders claw hammer with some duct tape over the end, and a 6 by 2 One down 2nd one in progress. outlet needs to be towards the bottom so bit different to the inlet side. looking decent so far
  17. 24 points
    So, I've been busy with lots of little jobs during the reassembly. Refurbing badges and fitting them, along with a fair few NOS ones too Lots of NOS lenses and lights Had to make up seals for some of them I found a really good plastic restoration product for pieces like the louvers And fitted them up While de-orange peeling I managed to sand through the clearcoat on the passenger door, was fuming. So I had to repaint that. Then it was time to get everything running nicely again so I can get back to driving it! I've been starting the engine up pretty regularly, so it's still running quite well. However I was having a problem with the throttle sticking, which seemed to be caused by one of the carb mechanisms being quite gunked up. When I tried to clean it all up the bloody things fell off. Luckily I had these things lying around the garage and wouldn't you know it, they fit pretty well. So I got them on with the help of a mechanic friend and managed to learn enough about carbs to roughly tune them myself via YouTube tutorials. They sound awesome. Far from optimal but smooth enough to drive around the neighbourhood for the first time in a couple of years. Was feeling pretty fucking chuffed with myself, I don't mind telling you. So, WOF tomorrow, fix any issues that come up there, then a proper dyno tune. I'm interested to see how much difference there is compared to the factory set up. Then drive the shit out of it. Also need to clean it properly before I take some decent photos of the new paintjob in the sun…
  18. 24 points
    put the motor back in. did some wiring tidy up and some other shit to. put a new core in the radiator because it had a leaking tube. that was a cunt of a job. then i went to fill it up with water and the heater core tubes were cracked. not surprised really, ive never had the heater out of this car in the 20 years ive had it and the brass tubes get a fucking workout everytime i take the motor out what with getting the hoses on and off. so out with the heater box and repair the core. the tubes themselves were all out of shape and deformed so i was able to reshape them back to round and tidy them up so thats good. it'd be nice to get this thing back on the road some time soon, this clutch replacement has taken fucking ages. 2020-08-24_09-04-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-08_07-43-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-08_07-44-09 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-08_07-44-16 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-08_07-44-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-09-08_07-44-32 by sheepers, on Flickr
  19. 24 points
    In the previous post you may have noticed the crusty corners of the hatch! So i set about some doing some foldy bendy things and also got a spin on a hand swaging machine. I made both sides using the RH side as a pattern. 2 layers of goodness. And welded the LH side in after some alignment checks
  20. 23 points
    This weekend the safety switch got wired up. I took the fuel pump off, made a blank plate to cover the hole, and found the original battery clamp. All went well so I took it off the stands and around the block for a quick drive. Awesome! so smooth, goes great, makes nice LPG smells. I'll see about getting it legal ASAP.
  21. 23 points
    Matt from tin tricks did some more work for me on the inner guards and firewall so it looks much better . Today it got dropped off at autoblast for underneath and the engine bay to get blasted, primed and underneath painted with 2k epoxy
  22. 22 points
  23. 21 points
    Picked up from autoblast this morning and dropped off for engine bay paint. Looks ok apart from they painted the black parts underneath then primed the engine bay so theres primer overspray on the inner guards and in the tunnel. Which is a bummer as that was the whole reason for taking it to them because I wanted it done nicely. I mentioned it and the guy came out with a rattlecan of black paint and some rubberised underseal to throw on before the towie arrived, which I didnt want on it I didn't want to leave it there for them to fix cause I'd already had to postpone the towie and the booking at the panel shop a week, because it wasn't ready last weekend as per the booking I made 6 weeks ago. So I'll get the painter to fix it, should just need a quick blow over with some more black after hes done the green parts And the hoodlining is ripped for some reason now. Bah. Anyway, I pulled the sump off to change the oil pump and pickup back to a stock one instead of a high volume pump. Its had a couple of times in the past where it lost pressure after a prolonged period of high rpm. I was concerned it was emptying the sump faster than it could drain back, and someone i talked to about it said that on a SB mopar, a stock pickup with a high volume pump can cause cavitation issues. Someone else said a high volume pump is unnecessary anyway as once it gets to x amount of pressure the relief valve bypasses so then the oil just gets whizzed around the pump doing nothing I'll try a stock pump and see how it goes, and also add some baffles, I got a new pan cause the old one has had a few bumps and an oil drain on the wrong side now I got brave and popped a couple of bearing caps off and they looked fine
  24. 21 points
    Finished up 2 more. Added chill blocks to the bigger top bosses and also a bigger flat one to the middle (instead of the tapered one). Still have the same risers.
  25. 21 points
    plenty of 'wiring' happening today. in my defence i fused everything. and it all works. i'm really happy with the result though. finally got the tach in and working. it reads comically high but meh, thats a problem for another day. i love it, they're different cars with the tachs. rust converter doing the magic got the missus tp help me string the screen in, its the 3rd one we've done, she's getting quite good at it lol. i hope i used enough sealant. done, with the chrome.
  26. 20 points
    The horn button and the steering wheel are still in their box. But instead I did some other stuff, we'll call this "Gen 2.0" of the project/not really a project. Last weekend, I fitted up the option OEM skirts and rear caps, made sure it all fit OK (which it did, because it's OEM) and trekked to Hamilton to get my mate Brendan to paint it all up. This stuff is all pretty rare - the skirts came up cheap locally so I pounced on them, but the caps I ended up having to spirit across from the USA. I've had it all for about 6 months I guess. The skirts needed some cracks repaired - luckily this was easy, as they're made from ABS. I foolishly forgot to take any photos during the paint and final fitting process. A cool trick for those at home, is to use side skirt trim for a Toyota bB to act as the NLA Honda weatherstripping that seals the edges of the kit against the side of the car. But anyway. I also scored a cheap set of Advan RG in 16x7.5" flavour just this weekend. They aren't mint, but present really well. They have a bit of light kerbing on 3 of the wheels, some stone chips as expected through age, and plenty of marks and chips on the inner barrels. I spent HOURS removing baked on brake scum, tar spots, and cutting the paint to remove light scuffs and they turned out pretty awesome I reckon. A bit of a bucket list wheel for me, I had some 17-inch versions on my old Torneo Euro R if anyone remembers that... Anyway, pics of wheels and kit on car. They tyres are a bit too tall, these are a 205/50/16 where the 205/45/16 on the stock 16's fits (and looks) much nicer. Just lame-o phone photos for the moment, I'm intending to get out with the camera (and the car on 17's) soon for some nice pics of how it all looks with it's flash new aero. DC2R Phone (41)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr DC2R Phone (44)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr DC2R Phone (42)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Bloody good though, eh.
  27. 19 points
    But who is Fred? I asked myself that before the watch even arrived, and started looking I have to make some assumptions That the watch was that of a NZ soldiers, it could have come from any english speaking country and the owner, or the watch itself came to nz much later. That Fred was given the watch before he left nz, He was already enlisted (i.e the date on the watch isnt the day he enlisted in the army) Then i checked the troop ships This gave me 107 Tahiti 10 Jul 18 40th Reinforcements 108 Ulimaroa 27 Jul 18 41st Reinforcements 109 Tofua 02 Aug 18 42nd Reinforcements 110 Ruahine 17 Aug 18 43rd Reinforcements, 31st Maori Contingent 111 Matatua 03 Oct 18 43rd Reinforcements, 32nd Maori Contingent NN Manuka var Mainly troops to Sydney for embarkation on Australian Transports. Dec 16, had 45 Motor Boat Reserve personnel embarked, transhipped to Australian troopship A64 – Demosthenes I also made the assumption that he was give the watch reasonably close to the date he shipped out, probably about a month Checking on the auckland museum cenotaph i am able to search via ww1 104848 men and disembarking after the 27 06 1918 but within about a month (im gona say Tofua) 3503 men Now the problem with Fred is that it can be Fredrick, Alfred, Wilfred etc. But im going to assume its Fred 141 men (i searched for freds with a birthday for the 27.6. There was one but he was K.I.A and i dont think it could have been given to him beforehand) But im going to assume its Fred 10 men Of those 10 men there is a Fred Collins of Stratford My great great Great grandfather came over from Ireland and settled in Stratford Freds occupation is listed as blacksmith Great great great and great great grandad were blacksmiths A little asking around from the aunties and yup, Fred was my great great uncle. He signed up earlier in the war but was turned down due to "lung issues'. But they ended up accepting him a few years later in 1918 just in time to get on troop ships riddled with influenza. After training in NZ he got sent to Sling camp in the UK, and the war ended before he finished there. As millions of men were coming home there was a lack of ships, so they stayed there for a while and went a bit mad. To keep the men busy, they carved out a giant kiwi in the chalk hills This didnt keep the men busy for long and soon someone broke into the liquor supply and there was a "riot" Fred was docked 2 days pay for his involvement in that. Fred came home to stratford and got married But that's about all I know. I'm Gona find out why he was called hobo too, that seems up my alley
  28. 19 points
    As some might have seen in my wanted advert I've been looking for a Nissan k11 Micra (march) for a while, mainly to have as a daily for when the Imp eventually goes under the knife to get its new flat six heart, but also just because both Hannah and I fancy k11s. There's a bit of history with them for us both and this connection along with just the cute unpretentious little car looks has us hooked. Not to mention that overseas there are some wickedly cool uprated versions doing the rounds. Quite a following for these cars in many countries except weirdly in NZ. When I was living in the UK I'd spot these everywhere. Very popular little cars, but ones that I looked past. That is until Hannah's younger sister needed to buy her first car. I helped them look for one and a Micra K10 came up for sale locally. We knew little about them except that Hannah and her two other sisters both learned to drive in K10s. Simple,easy cars to operate (685kg light too!!) So we Leila bought the little K10 and loved her first car, which became known as the Badger mobile - due to the trips Leila would take in it to Badgermans beach down in Cornwall... Sadly, because mother nature can throw out some right horrid things at us, Leila became ill with a rare disease called Crest syndrome, a type of auto immune thing. It started with her hands and she was unable to operate some items, including the windows. The little K10 became a bit run down and the road salt had done its job. Combined with the trickyness of using cars controls Leila decided to seek out a more suitable car. This is where the little K11 came to reside with Hannahs family. Hannah helped her look for a suitable car and then her brother found one. A four door 1000 facelift in dark blue. It had electric windows and central locking- two small things that made life for Leila show much easier... That little K11 did many missions about the place and the family became quite fond of it. Its also what made me start spotting K11s and becoming a fan. In a horrible turn of events Leilas life was cut short. The condition had continued to worsen to the point where it was effecting her heart. She died from a heart attack in 2017 at only 26. A huge loss to the world. Her little Micra was then taken on by Hannahs brother and he now continues to take it on adventures and the other siblings borrow it. I used last year for the 2019 Retro rides gathering - this being the first time I had ever driven a Micra any real distance and I really enjoyed it. While at the gathering I also spotted and fell in love with this little hillclimb beasty... I was amazed at how peppy it was for a 1000cc car. Its handling was 'floaty' but fun. I could instantly see how they would make a sweet little pocket rocket for twisty roads- in very much the same way as the Imp is. Hannah was also smitten and of course there is the family connection to add. So we would own a K11 one day- that was that! Fast forward to last month. I old my Viva wagon during lockdown and had some cash. I know that the Imp is to come off the road for the transplant. Lets start looking for a K11. There were requirements to be met though. It has to be a manual, two door, pre-facelift (PFL) and ideally would have the CG13 engine- not the smaller 1.0. But we soon found that these combined features are a very rare thing indeed in NZ. Kiwis never got Micras here new. They are all imports from Japan. Most are auto (CVT) with the 1.0 and most are 4 doors. All the earlier pre-facelift models, made up to the change over point of around 97, seem to have disappeared. Weirdly - Australia had them new - imported from the UK! They apparently are all PFLs too! Lucky. We found a very tidy 2 door manual face lift locally- but it stunk of ciggy smoke, was a 1.0 and a couple of other alarm bells rang about the owners and their honesty. They were also asking moon beams for it and wouldn't accept my lower offer. Plus- it was a not so pretty facelift version... Then this 4 door PFL turned up locally, going cheap. After a quick look up on carjam we found out that it was a 1.3! Also spotted in the photos were a rev counter. That rev counter dash is certainly a rare thing here- quite a bonus. With some more research Hannah deduced that it might be a March S. These have a few extras like the rev counter and a split rear seat. I messaged the seller and he confirmed it had the split rear seat. Oooooh we thought! Now a March S is not the same as a Micra Super S- as sold in the UK and Oz. I believe that the Super S has a few other blingy things like rear disc brakes, sportier seats, quicker steering rack and a deep front spoiler with added fog lights. ^Dreams. We went for a look. First thing I checked was the engine number- just making sure it was indeed a 1.3 with all those extra 20 ponies. Took it for a hoon (wow- the 1.3 is way faster ! ) checked some things and made a cheeky low offer. 2 days later there was a counter offer and we bagged it for a nice cheap enough price of $825 Picked it up yesterday afternoon. Bought some engine flush, oil, filter and new plugs. Will giive it a bit of Tlc. Its a bit dented and rough but will still clean up ok. Plans : 1 - look for a tidy 2 door PFL car to swap all the good bits into. Probably will be an auto 1.0. Wont be a quick job this so it can wait till later in summer because there are way more urgent jobs about the place. Plus this car is meant to be a runner to use while the Imp is off the road- not another project..... but hey. How can we not have a play! 2 - Lower it. Most likely using some garden variety 'Makita modified' springs... Apparently one can remove 2 coils and they will remain safely contained. We shall see. 3 - Find some nice alloy wheels. 13" x 6 would be nice. The pcd is 100mm so not too odd. 4 - Hannah wants a yellow Micra. So eventually it will be re-painted the official Nissan custard yellow.. 5 - add a turbo. Maybe. Could be fun. That's a way off in jobs to do here though! So here are some pics I took... The seller had the most amazing jumper on! I'd have been stoked if that came with the car... Before handing over the monies I thought it best to quickly check that the spark plugs were not seized in the head. Not coomon but worth checking to save a lot of aggro... All good! So we paid the man and hooned off into the sunset- me in the Imp and Hannah getting used to 'her' new toy Filled the tank.. Played cat and mouse over our hill to home... I took some quick pics in the evening light... JDM factory crystal for added healing power and bling. Some Marches came with these factory fitted... One key element to a good Micra... Another great thing to have when you're ragging all those little ponies to the point of exhaustion... \ Some service items... More to come soon. Lets see how much money we find under the seats etc
  29. 19 points
    Inspired by the sheer joy that has been the Eastcape Escapade, and the Te Urewera Undertaking, it's been decided that the south island needs something similar. Brace yourself for the Molesworth Moped Melee! We reckon it's going to go something like this, Friday 5th March, we're setting off from the beautiful alpine resort town of Hanmer springs. And traveling the Molesworth road, taking Taylor's pass, through to Blenheim for the night. This is around 200kms. (Mostly unsealed) https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1G4yXjXAnRQ8CSi-WwTN4hghbMgk89sek&usp=sharing We'll likely do a BBQ lunch on this day, because there is literally nothing on this route. Day 2, Blenheim to Nelson. With a possible detour up the Wairau river. Then through to Nelson via the Maungatapu track/past the Maitai dam. https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1rk2QIYvV-II3QYy6cvcHh-ygYrv_g9uq&usp=sharing Day 3, Nelson back to Hanmer, via St Arnaud, and the Rainbow road (toll road). https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1PTxU0yCmEI9Ogb2r58O_4cDfhcx-w5MM&usp=sharing We have some parties interested I driving back up vehicles with trailers. They can carry some gear. But riders are encouraged to be as self suffiecnt as possible. This post will be updated with proper maps and shit later. But I wanted to get it out there to get the fizz going. For those not familiar with the north island format, this is a ride for scooters/mopeds/small bikes. Theres no challange in attempting this on a 750cc adventure bike. More specific information will be added, as I think of it.
  30. 18 points
    So yeah I don't really update this at all, not much has happened since my last post in 2017. Had to use Google to find this build thread because OS search sucks. For the first time in over 5 years this is now living in the same house where I live. Amazing. I might even use it over summer. It doesn't fit down my driveway though so I'll have to make a small ramp to avoid it getting bellied. Was a three plank job to get it down today when it arrived. I might do some stuff to it as well. Check back in 2023.
  31. 18 points
    More painting.... pretty much decided not to bother with any filler. It can rock its history with pride
  32. 18 points
    Jumped back in this car over the weekend after a year out of the saddle. We fitted a set of the new class tyres, Hankook Ventus RS4. These are more of a road tyre than the Toyo R888R tyres that we previously ran on. They're around half the cost of a set of Toyos and I wasn't sure what to expect from them. This weekend had the meeting split over two days, with 4 classes on Saturday and 4 classes on Sunday and a 30 minute test session for each class in the morning. I entered the SF Cup on Saturday (open clubmans type racing) and the MX5 cup on Sunday. Straight out of the box, the tyres were proving to be quick. I set a lap time of a 1.24.6 in testing, which is right in line with the times we were doing on the old tyres. I didn't get any photos or video from Saturday as I was busy getting back into the groove of racing. Had loads of good battles with a bunch of drivers I wouldn't normally be on track with. It's fun racing against all types of cars! Turns out MX5s, VT SS Commodores and BA XR8 Falcons are all similar pace, but they develop their speed in very different ways. My fastest lap for the day was a 1.24.2 in the first race and Jerry did a 1.24.1 in his pink #777 - the quickest I've been on Toyos is 1.24.0, so these Hankooks have potential! Sunday was another intense day of racing with variable weather to add to the excitement. We were greeted by showers and a greasy track. A good chance to test the new tyres in the rain! They were much more predictable in the rain than the old tyres and I was able to hold the car VERY sideways without spinning out. Good news from a drivers and spectators perspective. I qualified on pole in the greasy conditions, but didn't quite have the pace in the first race, dropping back to third. My camera battery was flat, so I didn't get any footage. The second race was reverse grid, so I was starting third to last in position 12. After a hectic couple of laps in traffic, I managed to pop out in the lead and hold that to the end. This was the first win I've had for a couple of years and the chocolate fish tasted sweet! Onboard footage from Race 2: Race 3 was a staggered start race with the slower cars to the front. Jerry Hoskins in the pink car 777 was right with me through the whole race. We traded positions a few times and then attempted to make our way through the traffic. We didn't quite make it to the front, but I managed to get up to 6th which gave me an overall round win for the weekend. Onboard footage from race 3: It felt good to be back in the car and was great to get a win! I'm moving back to Palmerston North very soon, so will be doing as much motorsport as I can.
  33. 18 points
    Got the rest of the skins on, not 100% perfect but good enough for a LR and making these from scratch I was suggested to use an etch on the alloy. Its quite thin and transparent so was hard to see if I was laying enough on but seemed to work out ok.. And some epoxy to cover it all up...
  34. 18 points
  35. 17 points
    Awesome day! Thanks to everyone involved with organising it. Glad I wore all the gear today and survived my first lowside.... in the middle of nowhere, but directly in front of a a marae where 3 people happened to be working on the grounds! Pretty funny to fall off and hear “YOU ALL GOOD BRO?” from up the hill.
  36. 17 points
  37. 17 points
    Fluids and filters changed, tank of gas, air in the tyres and off it went for a warrant. I was expecting there to be at least a few minor bugs. But nope. I'm all legal and good to go.
  38. 17 points
    So somewhere way back up there was having a whinge about the intercooler being shit this one. it was the cheapest china special i could buy when first built truck. 600x280x75 core Got a new hypertune core, was meant to be 550x300x76, so had purchased some 3" tube which is also 76mm, to make some fancy end tanks. but turns out i got more than what i paid for... id of the cores are about 79mm So attempting to make it work anyway, I made this thing that bolts in place of the vice jaws to open up the tube. surprisingly it works since that looks like its going to work. back to mounting the cooler. radiator will need to be remounted also, since was hung off the old cooler.
  39. 17 points
    Painted and put the lights in the roof Vinyl in the bathroom, toilet and light in
  40. 17 points
  41. 17 points
    Well thats a wrap, 808 went off to its new owner on Saturday, Got some shots of it done by a mate before it got delivered.
  42. 16 points
    Kind of did a build thread here... But long story short: Made this, which holds these: The end.
  43. 16 points
  44. 16 points
    Manifold without charger on. You can see the two bosses that stick up on inside of fuel rail. These are fixings for two L brackets that provide additional bracing for the supercharger.
  45. 16 points
    I was expecting to spend a few hours separating the engine and gearbox to free up the frozen clutch. I had about 15 minutes spare last night so went to get started on undoing the bellhousing bolts, then discovered a little cover over the clutch. So I whipped the cover off and found you can get at the clutch bolts there, so I loosened them all off a turn, pressed the clutch pedal a few times, tightened them back up, stuck it in gear, pushed the clutch and viola: clutch is fixed. I also pulled the lid on the gearbox, just to satisfy my curiosity as it completely blows my mind that 4 forward and 1 reverse gears can fit in such a tiny case. It all looks very clean inside. I forgot to take any photos (as I only had the afor mentioned 15 minutes), so here is a picture of the outside of my tiny gearbox and engine. The lever on the right is the whole clutch pedal assembly, the hole in the top is for lubricating the thrust bearing I think.
  46. 16 points
    Convert to 808 coupe for lol’s?
  47. 16 points
    Latest repairs for last WOF. New set of tyres. New tie rod ends. New steering boots. Shimmed rack and pinion to take the slack out of the steering. Wheel alignment. Also replaced the fuel pump last year due to it leaking, (aftermarket external). Still humming along (sorry team, not much for threads on the interweb) Cheers Charlie.
  48. 15 points
    Wheels. They came powder coated black but I wanted a full glossy look to them so I painted them.
  49. 15 points
    I’ve now made the move to Palmy and have spent this week sorting out the wee workshop I’m renting. I’ve set up a bunch of shelves, built a bench and added a tyre rack along the back. It’s about 40m2 (10m deep, 4m wide) and has a decent high stud so I can hang junk from the ceiling if needed. The unit number will make @kpr jealous: #unit4A Unwrapped my fresh bottom end for the first time... really keen to get the head built now... Then I finished the rear suspension guff from the previous post, removed the springs and dropped it on the ground to see what rubs. The front LCA angles are pretty bad at this height. This is on bumps and I don’t have roll centre adjusters yet. At full compression the front lower arms just touch the chassis and the tyres rub on part of the inner guard (I’ll remedy this before finishing the engine bay tidy up). The lowest point of the chassis rails are are at 35mm or so. That’s with 225/45/15 tyres... probably safe enough to not scrape ripple strips at full compression? It will never run this low, but it’s good to see what the suspension will do over big bumps.
  50. 15 points
    Alright mumma never raised no quitter after alot of perseverance and some fresh eyes weve got it going! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas. So I had the ignition side of the wiring all re done with new relay. The dizzy cap was giving shit spark to #1 Bought a new dizzy cap and rotor Took all plugs out cleaned up still no go. Turns out a rogue plug wasnt giving consistent spark so replaced all plugs and checked resistence in the leads which all were fine. It would start up fine but when getting warm it would start to run like a bag of dicks.. over fueling and smoking like no bodies business.. Started looking at carb videos thinking I would be replacing the jets/adjusting floats I noticed in the videos their choke was fully open at 180 degrees and mine wasnt... no where close Heres a pic of when the engine is warm and the electric choke fully open.. Pretty sure suppose to be more like this anyway after rotating the cap when engine was warm to keep it fully open it ran great! Few trips up and down the street no hesitation or bogging down and buggar all smoke!! Drove up and down the road half a dozen times noticed temp guage rising so put it back in shed to give it a once over - boiled thermostat it didnt open so I'll grab another tomorrow. Sump still leaks so I'll need to remove motor to goo up sump gasket proper. Then wof
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