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  1. 39 points
    applied maths and string theory zing they see me chooching
  2. 34 points
    Okay soooooooo as awesome as it was living in a beautiful place and having a cool Automotive related job, life in Cromwell/Queenstown wasnt quite right for me. It was awesome fun working at HPA, made some friends and great memories which will last a long time. But, it just didnt quite feel like somewhere I wanted to settle down and in some ways it wasnt the career direction I wanted to take. So for a variety of reasons I ended up coming back up to Auckland. Being landlocked so many hours away from the ocean just didnt feel right! It was a bloody awesome experience though and it felt like it reinvigorated my life and got me back on track after some hard times lately. But anyway! It was good that I never got to the point of attempting to drive the Carina down, as the new driveshaft combination wasnt good. It took a bunch more mucking around after I got back to get this right again. But sadly it looks like the previous incident may have stuffed the bearings in the gearbox as it's pretty noisy now and leaks fluid out the rear main seal even after replacing it. Pooz. But it was great to get back home and be able to go drive it around again! The R888s are on my normal wheels so I've been driving around with a 15x6 running 205/50/15 and have noticed no negative effects to handling. Possibly because the sidewall of the AD08R is so stiff. Since I've been back, I started with a fresh sheet of paper on the tune file in the ECU. As it had some old junk in there, as well as some stuff that I setup when I ahhhh knew less than I do haha. The staged injection seemed to work well enough in terms of delivering the right amount of fuel and blah blah... But it was always a bit crappy in transient conditions. I decided I would turn on the outer injectors 100% of the time and try tune the car using just those, and get the accel enrichment and so on working as best I could. But it just felt boggy. When I reverted back to 100% inboard instead, holy moly the throttle response difference was amazing. And so the pull out of corners was much better and it felt like you could more accurately mash the gas and know what the car was going to do. So I ditched it and put a standard manifold back on. My theory is that since my intake manifold is thermally isolated from the head, it is not able to use the heat of the runner walls to evaporate the fuel so you have massive fuel pooling issues... Which means you lose control of your fuelling as some fuel you squirted in several cycles ago is only just entering the combustion chamber as it evaporates. So fuel you add at say 5800rpm only enters the cylinder by the time you get to 6000rpm and so on. And so if you tune your car with the acceleration rate of say 3rd gear fuelling isnt right for 1st gear anymore. Just lots of headaches that you cant really address well enough with the accel enrichment available on a G4+ In the documentation from Toyota on their wall wetting experiments they note that on a cold port (engine cold starts) fuel can take over 1.5 seconds to evaporate and contribute back to fuel in the engine so even if it was only half as long on the runner walls. It's a massive surface area covered in fuel which is always going to be a ball ache to compensate for. Going back to a standard manifold looks to have cured a vaccum leak or two as well, haha so the idle and so on is much better too. I've been playing around a bit with a few variables such as injection timing and VVTI advance as well. I have found that changing the injector timing so it's injecting fuel as the intake valve is open helps a lot with cold starts, and results in a lower fuel consumption when the engine is hot too. Since it's been cold I've also spent a bunch of time getting the cold idle really nice, closed loop lambda adjustment works really well if you set the adjustment rate to 1hz so its only slowly adjusting it. Otherwise it makes the idle surge if you try to run closed loop at say 20hz like you could if you were doing 4000rpm or whatever. Under cruising conditions it seems that advancing the intake cam at all just means worse economy. This may relate to the tuned length of the primaries and secondaries of the exhaust causing some undesirable something something at cruising rpm compared to a standard exhaust manifold... But for whatever reason, it isnt beneficial to advance the cam. And at high rpm low load, rather than retarding the cam I figure I may as well keep the cam advanced so when you stab your foot back on the throttle the cam is not having to "catch up". And this seems to have made the throttle response even better as well. So the engine response is better than ever! I picked up a cheap Altezza engine, planning to give it a freshen up and at some point swap it over. I'll be losing the fancy ported head of my current engine, but will be gaining: -Exhaust side VVTI -Higher compression ratio -better alternator position -Better water line setup -Better engine mount setup -Better PCV valve arrangement -And a few other minor advantages so I think it's worth the trade but will be interesting to see. The state of the oil and colour of the coolant in the altezza engine though is bloody disgusting though so it'll need a strip down and hot tanking or whatever before doing anything with it. So might be a while until it's ready to swap in. But looking forward to having a play with the exhaust side VVTI. I think I'll wire in an exhaust pressure sensor when I do an overhaul of the loom to suit some of the changes needed. Will be interesting if this will show anything relating to tuned lengths of the primary and secondary pipes. In the immediate future however I'm just really enjoying living at the start of Scenic Drive in Titirangi now and being able to go for some awesome drives on some backroads making doort noises again
  3. 30 points
    Have finished the majority of the rust in the doors, just one little hole on the side of one to go. I have welded on a new folded over flangey bit and painted all in there on the photo below. Has come out pretty good. The other door was pretty much the same deal. Another thing I did was make the cowl vent bracket fit this dash. Since it's changed to the RHD dash and I'm still using the LHD vent bracket it ended up mounting in the same place the glove box hinge was, so cut it up and drilled some new holes. That's the vent fully opened, can also be set to be slightly opened. Needs a different seal as the current one is too stiff and doesn't allow the vent to pull down flush, otherwise it operates pretty well. Filled up the two holes that were left at the top of the firewall as well, probably should do the same to those other two. Hooked up the accelerator cable. Then did some average panel beating and bogging to fix where the panel warped when I welded the bracket to the back of the firewall. Might need a bit more work one day. The part that clips in to the firewall for the accelerator cable was a bit loose and needed some sort of spacer, so laser cut out some circlip sort of things. Cable ties are sweet to hook the cable to the pedal right?! It does work well though, has good travel, feel etc. Received the seatbelt mounts back from getting passivated. Today I made up this after work. It is to mount the steering column to the firewall. Making a cone that small out of 2mm stainless without using rollers isn't very fun! Pretty happy with how it turned out though. Don't think I could make the steering column any shinier if I tried! Haha Borrowed a wheel off the Mercury to see what whitewalls look like. They're a bit wider and higher profile than what I'll be using, looks so sweet though!
  4. 29 points
    Sitting a bit lower now, bled up the new brakes and went for a drive Just need to remake the rear of the exhaust, get some new shocks and fix a little bit of rubbing I'll get around to the paint at some point haha
  5. 29 points
    everyday turn more steel into dust unsure exactly where I want the exhaust to end so cut it a little long and will see how it looks when its on its wheels. put the turbo kit back in temporarily to check fitment and of course needed to slit most of the joins to take the pipe strain out so everything will play nicely. will put the guard back on and make the hole in that while its all there
  6. 29 points
    keeping on smashing at this nugget quite a bit of time in welding up a bunch of seams, small holes and little reinforcements here and there. working on getting everything on the bottom of the car sorted. a bunch more measurements to figure more or less where things will likely sit. got prehistoric on the back end of the trans tunnel to make some more room for the drive shaft. fiexed up the hori gearbox mount rookiedave and mott made ages ago. ground off the bits they had glued on, welded up all the holes and re machined the crossmember to suit a factory GM powerglide mount. started on the exhaust next. with it being 3.5"/90mm really trying to tuck it up to the maximum possible to avoid getting beached at the still relatively unslammed slammedness that will be possible. to further this following some stick poking, umming, ahhing decided to make a nascar boom tube inspired rear section. keeps the same or greater cross sectional area with 40mm more clearance. still a bit of work to go go from round to rectangle but happy with the progress. need to get some more tube in 22x3 this week and try to scrounge a section of 200NB steam pipe for the driveshaft hoop. once those are done re fit the fuel tank temporarily to figure out how to mount the fuel system and get all the mounting points for fuel lines, trans cooler lines and such things done.
  7. 26 points
    nail biting time. sorted.
  8. 26 points
    Went for another wee spin last night, found a dark wall and adjusted the headlights, so now they point at the road, not the sky. Also adjusted the steering box, feels much better, just needs alignement me thinks, still a bit vague and twitchy. Rear end feels good, amazing how much of the road surface transfers though the car, from the rear end it would seem, might be the ride height I guess
  9. 25 points
    INterior is pretty cool, the dash pod is almost exactly like the 2300 but black plastic. Cheap stereo im sure hides some wiring disasters, but allows FM to exit the 4" speakers so it can stay for now. PO was second owner and bought the vehicle with 30,000km, when it was 9 years old. it currently has 90,000kms. Door cards are pretty shot, guy gave me some cool spares, but they are 2x passenger side 125S (gold trim! Lights!) so the drivers side is going to have a couple of extra small holes instead of two massive ones Engine is a 1585cc 132B.000 Block with a 4301155 Head (factory from a 131 Mirafiori 1600) This is bolted to the FSO 5 Speed box using all factory mounts. The Carb is a twin throat Weber 32 DCHE 21 (from a later 125), presumably using the old carb on the newer block so the FSO linkages could be used. The set up it a bit janky tho, so thats on the list. Radiator is a 125 one (FSO one has an offset filler neck and tucks under the closing panel more) with a small pusher fan on the front. Water is gank, but id not use any or overheat so will just clean it out when i do the cambelt and waterpump. Might be a good excuse to get the aluminium RX3 radiator i have cut and shut. Finally whipped the carb off to clean up and investigate the poor starting and flat spots. Im no rocket surgeon but it brobably had a bit of an air leak which is why it run way better with a bit of choke. The accelerator pump 'jet' or valve int eh base of the float chamber was also unseated completely, which would have no doubt contributed to the flat spot. Its so buckled one of the throats is actually flatsided a wee bit, so Ive given it a rough sand on a flat block to flatten it a bit, and cleaned it all out, and will install it with plenty of Hylomar Blue so we will see. I have a spare 34DMS to try as well which ran fine on my old 1608cc. So yeah, pretty stoked so far, shouldn't take too much to get back on the road and utilized
  10. 25 points
    My parents arrived back from America with all the bits I ordered. It was a little less exciting as I thought it would be, it's basically just a bunch of rubbers and screw/bolt sets haha. I also got them to pick up a pair of Classic Instrument gauges whilst they were over there. They were so expensive, but definitely way better looking and higher quality than most of the other types out there. Folded up a bit of sheet for the c-notch cover And also laser cut out the hinges for the back of the bed. Then decided how to make them pivot and turned up some bosses and sleeves. Need to get a better tap, a couple bolts and a some nylon washers to finish it off.
  11. 25 points
    Its been unfortunately off to pretty slow start just been doing some bigger hours at work to pay for parts, good news is I ended up buy a manual. Its a small world ended up putting a post on Facebook and a guy in Hamilton had a 5 speed Toyota W50 box with a Castlemaine adapter that he had had forever. Turns out once talking to him he recognized the rotisserie frame from the photo and we figured out it was his old truck that he started building in August 2000. The Toyota box was what he had originally used to set up the chassis but he held on to the motor/ box when he sold it which has worked out well for me. The turbo 350 never lined up at all with the gearbox mounts so it was a pleasant surprise that the Toyota box fitted perfectly. He also found the driveshaft that he got built and balanced when he was building it, am super stoked. Im a little bit concerned that the box might be a bit small once I go to a hotter 350 in the long term but it should be sweet behind the 305 for now, apparently the stronger W series boxes are all about the same size and have the same bolt pattern so can always go bigger later. Here are some pictures the original owner gave to me of when he was working on it. And classic early 2000 Barry shot I love it And some pictures of the gearbox fitted up to the chassis At the moment the cab is at a mates I have been peeling the cowl off but this is how the chassis is sitting at the moment at home. Sorry my potato is not the greatest at night time photos.
  12. 25 points
    so for all you that have no idea whats happened. i had a bad day at the track and result was ring lands on 2 pistons broken. so the ke has had a new motor built. over sized custom made CP pistons. new dry sump (so i can run scavange filters) . adjustable cam gears added. upgraded the W series box to R series gbox. we made 280kw on 14psi (low boost) without finishing the tuning or touching the cam gears. reason be motor sprung a leak on the rear crank shaft and it leaked on the clutch causing it to slip on the dyno. will be doing a track day soon and then we will be cranking up the boost till the turbo is at its limit. sit tight to see what itll make at high boost
  13. 24 points
    so, were was I? ah yes friday. I phoned around a few places and found Autostop are the only people that carry Bosch car parts these days, asked about a GT40T (for transformer) coil, no worried the helpful young man said, I 'll ring ya back once the van drops it off, sorted. at about noon the guy rings me back, the coils here in the local shop, but for some reason I double checked, it is the small square one right? no its the round cylinder one, doh! no worries he assures me, I'll get it on the next van, I get another call at about 3, square coil is here, sweet! so I bunk off work early as I have the wifes car for the day to go and pick it up, get home on the double time just as Darrell does and we install the new one and she fires straight up!Once I got the old coil out it was obvious it had see better days, but in my defence most of that great crack was hidden from view under the mounts, and I was more worried about the clutch and piston rings still working etc..all this pissing about with the coil had at least given me time to sort a few other small but important things.these are my jets.as I said in the earlier winge post everything has been checked and double checked, which does at least give me more confidence in the old girl.gave the last few parts of the sunroof mech a lick of paint and duct taped the old cover on for now.water tight bugwhich bring us back to friday night and a for the first time a running car. First job, wash all the dust and cat paw prints off it.jeah.stood back enjoyed a beverage until it was nearly dark.once the kids were in bed and I'd realized the only things stopping a wof was a front number plate, wipers and them brakes, or lack there of. I then remembered I hadn't yet had another go at adjusting the rear drums and noticed when I pulled the handbrake on, I had a good pedel, hmmmm.Sure enough they were miles out, whats next? wipers and a plate? might as well keep going!I have some how amassed quite a collection of wiper arms and blades over the years and so had a nice working matching pair, something else new of this car, polished up the old black plate, so many battle scars, but I love it.By now its 11.30, fuck it, I'm going for a drive!now it get this thing legal. I have however driven it on private roads and those twin carbys are transformed this car into a bit of a beast.that little 1600 revs feels like it wants to rev to the moon! still needs a bit of work on the timing and jetting, but dear god it pulled 50mph in second gear today! a little bit scary with drum brakes! so friggin loud though, no headlining at all, my brother said after I took him for a wee blast, it like sitting in the engine bay! it kind of hard to drive normal as it so much fun to wind out.
  14. 23 points
    Bunged in a spare engine and trans to figure out where everything is going to fit. It's going to be a bit of a challenge to get it all packed in, the steering box is hooge and gets in the way of the exhaust, a manual box is smaller but quite pricey to get, and you need a manual steer column or an adapter to make it work. Plus I like how it drives as it is, apart from wandering at speed, which I think should be ok with a heap more caster in it. This, after much standing around looking , seems to be the best place to put the turbo, it makes the intercooler piping look very easy. Exhaust will have to go across the front and down the rh side . Haven't decided what I'll do for manifolds yet. No factory ones fit, aftermarket truck headers would be close but need work to fit around the steering, log manifolds would be easiest but would be giving some power away. So I'll probably have to make something myself
  15. 22 points
    Right, I'm back again, to actually make a proper effort at a car, unlike my KE70 that I abandoned after a week. The R30 pine has been strong as of late and after sharing my pine with Scott (Brdflu) the week after Hanmer-nats he pointed me in Slacker_sams direction. A few Facebook messages and a 40 minute plane ride(stupid pencil planes) and BAM! Glorious! Topped off the tank with diseaseline at 6.45 in Motueka, swung past maccas and left at 7pm. 5.5hrs chugging through heavy rain, I was lucky theyd cleared the Lewis of the Spring snow fall that closed it the night before :S 461km from Mot to my door, didnt miss a beat! Safe to say the already noisey diff is making even more noise now though. On with the project! Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57362-beaubots-1982-er30-skyline-sedan/
  16. 21 points
    So a bit more digging today, i pulled out the interior, seats and carpets are fine to reuse, floors and sills and pillars are excellent. but there was a suspicious amount of no more gaps with a coat of bitumen spray over it on the rear cab/floor join, inside and the tray side. After lots of thinners soaked rags to get rid of the black tarry shit, and about an hour of wire brushing, and emptying the vacuum twice. That no more gaps sure is is sticky stuff! This is the passenger side from inside the cab and is the worst, drivers only has a couple of spots This is the drivers side from the tray side, and is the worst, but passenger side has a couple of hole too. Might be easiest to cut and shut ~100mm wide sections from a sedan floor as they never rust there. My red 125 body is in now in Hamilton and ive been meaning to grab some bits back off it so i guess thats moved up the list. This are will probalby be the last to do as a result. The cab wall itself is fine. More rust chasing I think i found the 'custombuilt' part of this truck. The vertical shock mounts have actually been removed and the angled setup installed. I didnt have a very good look underneath but it looks factory, so i wonder if its got 1500 bits under there. There are a few holes to fill in both inner arches due to the torn spot welds rusting. There are also matching holes in front of each arch where ive never seen a sedan rust. As well as adding rusty holes to the list, I crossed some off. The tail gate was rusted though in one corner, but now it isnt! I was in the zone and forget to take pics till i put the first coat of primer on, but you get the idea. Will need a skim of putty (especially to fill my wonky edge line!) but im pretty happy with that for the first patch.
  17. 20 points
    While on a family jaunt to Papamoa last week, Mr Chris Grant was taking photos of trash on the side of the road, and messaged me some pics: a 1989 Fabryka Samochodów Osobowych (FSO) 125p Pickup, which is a Polish licenced version of a FIAT 125 (Russian Ladas are FIAT 124 based) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polski_Fiat_125p These have 125-eque bodies and the preceeding 1300/1500 model running gear Anyway, i got him to investigate further and he sent me this: Its got a twin cam it instead of the factory 1500 pushrod (same engine as my 2300 with 2 less cylinders) Anyway, seems legit and i ring the guy to organise a viewing the following weekend (on my way to wellington) and if (LOL) i buy it, to collect it on the way home a week later. So thats what happened... discussion \/
  18. 20 points
    Interior got a scrub down today!
  19. 19 points
    figuring out shopping list of what else i need to complete fuel and oil system plumbing. just like work, everything has different thread and fitting size so you have to step through each connection one by one and think which adaptor, which hose end etc. is needed, plus measure and check threads because you cannot believe anyone or anything until proven right. e.g. a 3/8 -18tpi NPT male fitting goes about 5 turns into a 9/16 -18tpi female thread because of the taper but its wrong. would seal with loctite 567 and ptfe tape if you had to but trying to do a better job on this occasion. up next.....giant flaming hole in wallet
  20. 19 points
    much work over the weekend mott came round on saturday and helped a bunch finishing welding up all the exhaust stuff that I had fitted up and tacked togethe,r while i worked on the thesis for my turd polishing doctorate. not only had the good old boys bo and luke of north taranaki been trying to emulate randy campbells greatest ever stunt and bashed the crap out of the fuel tank, it had some epic corrosion paint coating chemistry going on which took several hours of wire wheeling to remove and find out what specification colander i have. Im guessing the combination of the rustpaint protective coating and the holes being on the top of the tank meant no one ever noticed previously. anyway got all the paint and rust and shite off, cleaned and treated the rust. will have to cut and weld and patch in the top and the one pit hole in the bottom and some of the dents will get sorted with the fitting on the sump. also made up a frame and and brackets to mount the tank and got all that done. will get onto fitting the sump and repairing the tank next. PS thanks again jack ma, can vouch that these all in one drillytappy things with impact driver hex drive are astonishingly better that what i expected actually work awesome
  21. 19 points
    Finally have a bit of an update on this build... My tyres showed up from America so they went on and did some test fitting. Reverse Cragar's all day long. The standard offset set looked weak. It's pretty much ready for vinning, I brought in some suspension parts (tie rods, bushes etc...) but they supplied the top arm bushes instead of the lower arm bushes I needed. So vinning has been put on hold for another few weeks.
  22. 18 points
    Swapped the 175/50/13 yokohamas onto the starsharks. It's so slammed now haha. It's also nicer to drive in most ways because it sits at slightly higher revs, apart from high speed cruising which still isn't too bad. Speedo is waaaay out now though!
  23. 18 points
    Gave the hinges a bit of a polish and made some nylon washers, it all should work well I hope. Need to find some wood for the bed now. Decided I should go back and finish mounting the front sway bar. Started by making some new mounts since the ones that came with the rubbers weren't very nice. Bolted it all down in the right place and stole the sway bar links off the rear since they need to be changed anyway. Needed to cut out the side of that gusset sorta thing on the front end that I made ages ago since the sway bar hit it when the front raises up. Another thing that my parents picked up in America was an ashtray that goes in the middle dash panel, since neither of the RHD dashes came with one. Could of used the LHD one but wanted to keep that dash complete to hang on the wall or something haha. Had to get a second hand one since they don't sell them separate from the whole dash panel, and they were never made in stainless so it will need to be painted or chromed.
  24. 18 points
    Replaced the front wheel bearings, and it's now all road legal and still owes me sub a thousand. Now the boring bits over time for some fun. Also took it back to the old owner and he said he still has its original black plates and will dig them out so I'll hopefully get them back on the car
  25. 18 points
    got 13psi dialed in, one day might get the wheels off the ground. not enough run up /too slippery here. looks like it wants to nose wheelie, due to the front weight bias and rear setup. but soaks up the bumps good made a new heat shield for intake. half finished here measured it up, pretty much bang on standard ride height. even with the extra 3inchs up travel in the front.
  26. 17 points
    So checked it out, agreed on a price ($1000 less without the hotwires, lewl) and left a deposit a week ago, and yesterday after driving from Palmy to Papsmear i pick up this on probably the rainiest day ever. Here is the traditional first fill up shot. Looking good in Light grey with 80's tastic pink fade graphics and contrasting turquoise rubbing strip, plus red pinstripe Now this is a good time to point out that the vehicle is of questionable road worthiness and legality, and while it runs, it has some quirks. The Mrs was supposed to follow me in the van and we would roill slowly back to Auckland with any mishaps easly resolvable with a support vehicle. THis was the plan but i got lost almost immediately (wrong lane + road works) and she went the Matamata way. in addition to water and oil i also purchased some wiper blades, which turned out was a good call. After only one issue when i couldnt get it to start after stopping and it conked out, (and then it just went) I thankfully made it back to Auckland with pretty much no issues Goes pretty good apart from a hole in the secondary pipes and a maaaassssssiii-i-i-i-i-i-ii-ve flat spot when accelerating, which is a carb fault of some sort, as the engine runs well otherwise.
  27. 17 points
  28. 17 points
    made up a crossmember for the driveshaft hoop to mount to. need to take some 50x6 flatbar and use the rollers at work to make a circle to go on there. tig welded up the nascar rectangle thing. fuck me my left hand is shaky lol. good practice though apart from all the gas in my bottle disappearing rather quickly.
  29. 16 points
    Made a start on the bed over the past week, first thing was to remove all the old brackets and supports. They were a bitch to remove since they were spot welded ever 150mm or so and you couldn't see where the spot welds were, eventually got there after doing 1/4 of them each day after work. Decided to put the c-notch up through the deck because I think they look terrible with a raised deck with hardly any depth. After that I made up a frame out of 40x40 box section that fits on top of where the original wood would of sat. That means the deck will be about 40mm higher than standard, which is good because it will hide all the rust/corrosion behind where the old brackets were removed. Need to sandblast/paint where those brackets were and everywhere below the box section and fix the rust up the front of the tray. Was thinking of making the whole deck lift up so you can access stuff underneath it, but I couldn't figure an easy way to do the hinges. Then I realised I only really need to access the airbag stuff and the fuel tank so I'll just make the back third lift up. Made a mock-up in Solidworks to test how the hinging works. The pivot point needs to be above the wooden boards so that they clear the c-notch panel when it lifts up. Seems like it works well, can lift up to 60 degrees before it hits.
  30. 16 points
    Have been uber slack for the last few months, things gt too hard. Finally got around to buying some engine mounts (arrived today), after the replacement ones sourced from Japan didn't actually exist. SO have some out of a 260c which are very similar and will/should bolt to the car, but possible some fiddling of the engine brackets to get it sitting right as they are a bit taller. So this weekend will look at getting the flywheel and clutch etc all bolted back up, and have a crack at putting the engine back in the hole. Progress. Hopefully.
  31. 16 points
    Diff housing, with spring pads and other assorted unwanted giblets removed
  32. 16 points
    Well it's a year later and the only change is that is has grown plenty of lichen. Took the diff head out and had a go at fixing the LSD and crazy noise it has, that didn't work so I took it back out and tightened up the backlash a bit more, that didn't help either. Tried to do skids, single spinner, tried some more and it starts missing and running like shit. Because of how miserable it is to take the head out, I've been ignoring it. I did however just order a carb rebuild kit. I also just realised most of my pics no longer work, ah well.
  33. 16 points
    Haven't done anything with this yet, but have some more photos, apologies for blurry photos my camera screen lens thing is cracked haha. Got the steam cleaner onto it this avo as well!
  34. 15 points
    I got the old gal some new boots. Always planned on wider and 13in anyway. mate sold her van and kept the wheels so had no use for them, I’ve always liked Jilbas so once I test fit and they cleared, we struck a deal! Two were pretty grubby and brake dust starting to eat into them but they cleaned up pretty well with some truck wash, my electric toothbrush and a fine steelo pad. SSR Jilba 13x6.5 Type A. Nankang 175/50swith decent tread. Now I know how much I need to lower it, the front especially. It’s quite high at the x-member.
  35. 15 points
    mounted up fuel pumps. enough pump for 1000hp on e85 . Current motor/turbo etc won't make that much but decided to put the extra pump in now. more of everyone's favourite CAD design program tacked on patch and sump fitted up, bracket for fuel filters welded on then ran out of argon so stopped and watched the last couple of hours of Bathurst
  36. 15 points
    Someone had deemed these "junk" and left them in a fish bin full of water outside for a year. Some time ago i cut open a dead RB25 coil hoping to see what was inside. Such fine wire, so many windings. About a million of the finest wire windings i had ever seen, trapped in resin plastic, sealed and unable to be unwound at all. At least by any methods i could see. These 100 year old ford ones remind me of the same thing, except the wire is slightly thicker and there is 2 lots of 1million windings. 2 per coil around a heavy primary winding. Accidentally put a chisel into the primary and is still works. Not for 100 years anymore as it'll corrode now it's damaged but still... not many ignition coils you can pull the windings out of, involving chipping away or melting the tar they were packed in. Those brown paper things are capacitors. Condensers effectively, like you have for a distributor. While i'd heard of old timers making their own from paper and chewing gum wrappers back in the 1940s when they were poor kids fixing their first car... i'm not that keen. These had real tin foil, not the alloy foil we have today so they solder really nicely. A couple tested within spec' so i re-used them. Others i replaced with orange things. Mix and matched the wood. And going ot do the same with the burnt out windings so i can turn 8 burnt ones into 4 good ones... hopefully. Had some burn up after 10 minutes of driving because i didn't realize how keen they were to have inch long sparks jumping inside the box if i didn't put the glass plates and tar back in. Opps. Bit marked up, some have clear borer holes in them but not too bad for 100 year old ignition parts. How many of you are still running original coils and points at 1/3rd the age?
  37. 15 points
    I was looking forward to driving it to work the other Saturday cause my work car is boring, but when I did it was flat as fuck, boring and generally disappointing. when I got home I put the timing light on it to find it had moved a little, so tightened. Needed a warrant so I put a standard carb on, so it had choke and wasn’t a jerk to start for them. hosed gas into the engine when you shut it off. pulled it apart and cleaned it, did the same thing. then discovered the power valve actuator was frozen up Freed that up and it was mint, but The morning of the warrant it started doing it again. passed with a clean sheet! Was a totaI knob to start afterwards so I hotwired it and wouldn’t rev out, popped and banged, so chugged it home. They didn’t mention it doing this to them so she must have behaved. more of the same. Have since thrown the twin carbs back on. it pulled a bit under brakes so I ripped the other caliper off (did the opposite side before last warrant) and: one Piston was a bit scabby so used a spare and got it back together, cheers to mint16 for the bleeding help! cheers also to the above for making my sweet rocker shaft spacers. likely overkill but it’s a cool old school mod which replaces the springs with a brass bushes to stop the rockers moving laterally under revs I also modified the mazda air box a while back so the bonnet closes over it. required me to cut most of the base, push down at front and then fill the pie-cut section with panel steel. and found out the hard way that if you leave the key on while you go check something else, it can get ultra hot,produce a lot of rank smelling smoke, drip Brown shit out of it and fail! Lucky I had a spare generic one, cooked one was a GT40. I have a new one, but I’m planning to go electronic dizzy soon so needed to be a non-resistor type. Heres a shot of the current state of play. I used to have the fuel line running over the rocker cover into a tee, but discovered that the factory hard line will reach with a little bending. Much tidier and safer.
  38. 15 points
    rear setup needs alot of work before im doing that again ^ needs a bit more rear up travel and some hydro bumps. then dial out some anti squat, so doesn't send the ass up in the air so much. didnt really build it for jumps, but its pretty fun
  39. 14 points
    Sorry for the delay, but HAWKES BOES IS COMING!!!!! Dates are 20th - 23rd which is labour Weekend What is Hawkes Boes? Well, Firstly its been a good old oldschool.co.nz event for over ten years now. Usually a grand old time hanging out with good friends, new friends, old friends. Its just a damn good time, in Napier, with sun, fun, maybe rum? but whats it all about??? how about staying at a camp out Clive ways, camping, vanning, wagoneering, or dorm rooming, for 3 nights, or less if thats your thing. How about a good old bike ride, on good old bikes on the saturday? And how about a sweet cruise out to Ocean beach on the sunday, for bbq, beers, kites? Whatever And if you LOVE Barrys, how about a visit to one of the 4th biggest miniature rail ways in the Southern "Hemi" sphere at 830m long, and it happens to be there national meet, To be honest, its hard to explain what its actually all about, but to sum up, its rad. 10 years cant lie. Heres a form to registar http://www.emailmeform.com/builder/form/4d3xUO1qsajr I will get more involved with details soon. but this is a place holder, and a questions thread, and a SHIT YEAH I LOVE HAWKES BOES thread. Spread the word like your mums legs. Details about venue: Its a Christian Camp, but that doesnt matter. Has plenty of grass area for camping, parking etc Venue has a massive hall for party time excellents there are 3 large dorm rooms at the back of the building. I dont think these have any sort of bedding, so bring that sort of stuff if you wanna stay in there. Kitchen is sweet as commercial spec, ovens stove tops etc. Really cool spot, reasonable distance from other residences the road to the camp is a nice casual slop down hill also, prefect for racing bikes down, or if you wanna be rad, build a old style trolley racer. Entry List - (KK edit) Goat - PAID Lovechild - PAID Bizzo - PAID Yowzer Mourning Cupcake - PAID Geophy - PAID Ms Geophy - PAID Shaz - PAID OldnRusty Baby K Testament Lowlife - PAID Shaven Yak - PAID Steelies Shakotom Kateums KKtrips Presumably there will be entries for @Leebo3, @Seedy Al, @sentra, @manlymanman, @Big Value Buddy, @HighLUX, @UTERUS too.
  40. 14 points
    Cut the drivers side floor out last weekend. Not for the faint hearted. Started mocking up the new floor, going to butt weld it in so it looks decent. Big piece of realestate this mofo. I got to lunch time on saturday, thought fuck it, im off to the pub for a beer. The weather is too nice for any more of this shit today. Haha Anyway, progress continues. Want to try get it back together for end of summer. Probably dreaming but its not impossible if i try do a few serious full days coming up on my annual leave next month
  41. 14 points
    Howdy, Have been doing a bit on this old girl while being on holiday lately, even managed to get a WOF! Anyway, whats been done; -Changed to a Link G3 (super easy to use compared to the megasquirt), have tuned it reasonable well so the mixtures are all safe. The ol' 4ag goes surprisingly well! -Fixed up and resprayed an old dash in the nice porno beige. -Mounted one seat.. -Cut off the terrible exhaust tip and made a cool stainless rod gearstick! -Random little things for a WOF. This thing is super fun to rip around in, tis constantly picking a wheel with the little 165's and open spinner! Is crazy loud inside with all the sound deadening removed and no seats ect, ear plugs are almost necessary. Am kinda unsure if I should pop in a J160 and a decent diff, or sell it. Hmmm. Here's some pics!
  42. 14 points
    New blower pulley arrived today - smaller pulley = more boost! I removed all of the wiring, pipework, radiator etc and gave the engine bay a paint in Ford Diamond white
  43. 14 points
    So pulled the front end off and engine and box out over the weekend. Gearbox/driveshaft fought me for a couple of hours before admitting defeat at the hands of a bigger hammer. Have taken all the extraneous crap off the LS and changed the sump so it will clear the crossmember, will need to hang the AC compressor and the alternator off the heads, rather than off the base of the block they are in the Holdons. Pretty much every conversion I have managed to find, the torsion bar front end has been pulled in favour of a later model, basically the crossmember the torsion bars attach to is in the way. Im going to test fit before the front end swap happens, Id really like to keep it how it is... Also have obtained a 12 bolt rear end, this is off to be rebuilt and an eaton posi chucked in it because 11's. I will be doing the bulk of the conversion myself, the front end swap (if I have too) is basically a bolt in barring one mounting hole. The front end I have is out of a 77, and fortunately it is a front cut so lots of measuring to get the steering geometry right. What I do need is someone to do the welding on trans crossmember, once I get to that point. Any suggestions would be great, also at what point should I get a certifier involved, Im not cutting it up, rear diff is a bolt in, may go to a one piece drive shaft... etc... If anyone wants the old exhaust, come and get it, no holes, not rusty, but I chopped it in half to get it out
  44. 13 points
    Front end is all tacked up and sitting on its wheels!Happy times.Been some time since it has been rolling and its a good feeling seeing it all together upfront again.Air out its sitting pretty much where we wanted it. If you enlarge the above pic you will see the trans cross member is bleeping low. have a couple of inch clearance at this point air out. Ride height is about 2.5 inch higher so say 100mm or 110mm or so.Engine is offset 20mm to get clearance for the PS pump. Not really noticeable even when you are told.If you have been twisted enough to follow along with the progress of the build then you know the rear ends shockwave airbags mounts are adjustable. At the moment is in the middle setting. May bring it up to the highest setting. I do love that rake but the extra inch at the back will help level the carbs a bit along with all the other obvious benefits. Time will tell.Cross support and trans mount are all made up. Folded top hat with a flat bottom similar to the original Hudson braces. Bolt in for ease of access if in the future we ever need to do work under there. Front brace helps for body flex etc.Pic above gives a better idea of how low the braces are. Just lower than the trans pan to help protect it a bit with luck. You can also see eight (4 per side) front access holes to the bolts that let you remove the whole front clip. The whole idea with all this is ease of maintenance for future work.Next is taking out the engine. Welding up everything. Brace up some bits with some gazeting. Notching the front rails for bit more clearance on the steering arms. Drilling the panels holes and ya ... golden. Oh and trim those long ass rails and add the rads front brace. Sigh list goes on.And talking about panels... Flockie held them in place as i took a gander. Instant grin when I steeped back to have a look.We did this not only just to see how it would look but to check the tire clearance as there was a bit of concern the inner guard my hit the tire air out. Nope it was fine with heaps of room. You can see how much longer the chassis rails are as well. Easier to make em shorter than longer was the idea.And talking of Flockie who is doing the welding, math and all the hard stuff at the moment for me.... BAMLooking pretty happy with him self and rightly so. He has done some great work.Go like him on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/flockieschassis/Oh and for a laugh check out my Buick gravel track fun vid on youtube here.
  45. 13 points
    Bit more progress, got all the bits on that weren’t on. Next step is too try jam it back in the hole Boring picture so here’s a dam
  46. 13 points
    more progress on the old girl! She now makes funny noises.. don't mind the shakey camera!
  47. 13 points
    Sooooo, I may or may not have got a little carried away while browsing Yahoo auctions for r30 parts... It all started when I found this: And it quickly escalated And as a bonus (which I didnt realise at the time, the side skirts have rear corner caps too! FIZZING! they should be here in a month or so! Unfortunately now I cant afford any wheels... Would people hate me if I ran widened steels for a while?
  48. 13 points
    Spring clean. Before: After
  49. 12 points
    And the rear: Tail gate is rusted on one corner, there is some patches in both the rear quarters, the area in front of the rear wheels have been repaired before on both sides, but otherwise it seems pretty good. all the pinholes will add up tho... Its got a tow bar. rear valance is a bit holey, and its the same on t'other side, and the rear quarter. THe inner tray tin is all removable to reveal, pretty much no rust in a 125 sedan floorpan. THe 125 boot well is covered over, as it the seat (and threaded seat belt holes), Even the 125 sedan vertital mount rear shock tubes are still there, open to the road below, even tho the Pickup has a 2300 style cross member and angled shock arrangement. Factory setup the spare is attached to the side of the tray infront of the rear wheel. The PO had cut the tin and fitted those big gate hinges to put the spare (with 135 width tyre!) under the tray and had the hump in the tonneau removed I will make try to the whole under tray where the 125 seat and passengers feet are into storage compartments. This all water blasted up nice and clean and a lot of mud came out of the wells
  50. 12 points
    Time for a new ring gear and pinion as it was making a right racket ! Ive had the axles gun drilled about 3/4 of the length of the shaft to take out some weight New discs , thought I'd swiss cheese these too Finished Product Sticky Tyres have arrived All Fitted and ready to abuse
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