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  1. 30 points
  2. 30 points
    So this finally happened! Taken awhile and still little things I want to sort but will be good to be able to drive through summer!
  3. 29 points
    So entered this ol thing at the Smash Palace Bike show this yesterday. Seen a bike show near Gold coast earlier in the year and all the bikes had thier own displays so took some inspiration from it and I created a display that was fitting to and a Monty Python skit Im a LumberJack and im ok. I work all night and sleep all day. Quite fitting for me as ive worked night shift the whole time ive been building this bike. So I scored some wood chip from work and a few rounds and put a Axe and Saw into them and had this as my displaye. I won MVP of the show for my display which I was quite surprised about.
  4. 27 points
    1st half of the inner core pattern printed. Printer is running like a champ at the moment. Nice quality.
  5. 25 points
    I've owned this car for over 20 years now, after buying it off my Dad while it was off the road. We stripped it back to bare metal, rebuilt the 1800 engine, and put it back on the road. Then came an engine swap to a 2L supercharged engine from a Lancia Beta Volumex. It was great to drive, but I have my gripes. Then life moved on and I parked it, as it wasn't the best daily driver at the time. Unfortunately weather triggered rust, it went into a state of disrepair before I found some dry storage. More than a decade later I'm ready to restart the project, with a number of changes. This seems like a good place to document the build for others. Immediate plans are to strip the exterior of trim, windows etc, pull the engine, strip the interior of the dash, carpet, seats. Then prep the rust affected panels. There is a lot of paint lifting straight off bare metal, so something in the original prep must have gone wrong. Will be addressing that this time around. Discussion thread here.
  6. 25 points
    Ready for paint. The panel journey has ended and the quality is just outstanding. Thanks Greg at R3 Fabrications.
  7. 24 points
    IMG_20191111_174007 by John Bell, on Flickr
  8. 24 points
    Cam tree coming along quickly. A real one Patterns
  9. 24 points
    Been building this up since picking it up from @Bellicose at the end of August, so happy to be back on an A50! Thanks again to @Bellicose, @64valiant, @Truenotch, @Archetype, @MichaelJFox, @MopedNZ, @Shakotom, @GuyWithAviators and everyone else who helped out along the way! 77 Suzuki A50, 45mm K50 big bore kit, Jamarcol expansion exhaust, lots of new genuine parts and a lot of other things done. Will post up some pics of the build later probably
  10. 24 points
  11. 24 points
    Well yeah, Bosch K-Jetronic.... I now understand why it's so widely hated. This will be a rather large post, as this covers about 6 weeks of work. The TVR has been out of commission for a while now, since the running issue was getting worse to the point it wasn't able to make it down the road anymore. The last update regarding the engine saw me remove the plenum and injectors to test them. This lead to the discovery that the flow was there, but the pattern was rubbish, so new injectors were sourced. New Bosch injectors for the cologne are big money, and I'm trying to sort this issue for minimal cost (within reason). There is a lot of discussion online about using Mercedes injectors in various KJet powered cars (mainly VW), and it all seems good, and the injectors are much cheaper. I found one single blog post on a foreign website, that once translated confirmed that the Merc injectors do indeed work on the Cologne V6. Good enough for me. The injectors in question are Bosch part number 0437502047, and I also got new seals, Febi 034133557E. I sourced both from FCP Euro. The Bosch boxes made me laugh. MECHANIC ONLY! You can see the obvious difference here. The new injectors are shorter, both in the overall length, but also in the hex part at the top. I can now confirm that these do indeed fit, and if you check the link to the other blog above, you can see that the injector does stick out into the intake tract less, but won't be an issue (and some say is better for intake flow). You can see the shorter hex here These are the plastic retainers. These sit on top of the O-ring, and appear to be what actually holds the injector into the manifold, by the metal retainer pushing down on the plastic retainer, which pressed down on the O-ring. The tapered face visible in the first photo is what sits against the O-ring. Due to the replacement injectors having a shorter hex, you cannot fit the retainer and O-ring, and then still have space to tighten the injector pipe. I found it easiest to slip the plastic retainer, O-ring and metal retainer on, leave them at the bottom of the injector, and then fit and tighten the pipe on the car. Once tight, then you slip the retainer and O-ring up into place. So that finally solves the mystery of the injector seal. It's a normal KJet O-ring, with a plastic retainer on it. With the new injectors sorted, they all got refitted into the manifold and secured with the metal retainer and screw. Next was to remove and clean the fuel distributor. This is the big weird thing on top of the air box, which feeds all the injectors. This has a plunger inside it, which the sensor plate presses up on as it opens. This plunger is known to get sticky when cars are left sitting. Mine was slow to return, and wasn't moving as free as it should. Carefully crack off all of the banjo fittings, including the feed and return on the side, and then remove the banjo bolts. Take care to collect all the copper washers, as there will be two on each banjo fitting. With the fuel lines disconnected this gives access to the three flat head screws that secure the unit to the air filter housing. Remove these screws. Now the distributor can be CAREFULLY removed. Make sure to slip a hand under it and stop the plunger from dropping right out. If it falls out and gets damaged, the whole distributor is a write-off! You can see the plunger in the center of the unit. With the unit on the bench you can turn it over and let the plunger slip out. If it doesn't freely drop out, it may need some compressed air in the top fuel fitting to push it out. Mine dropped out OK. Be VERY careful handling the plunger, and keep it very clean. I cleaned the plunger and its cylinder in the main unit, and sprayed and soaked all fuel ports with carb and brake cleaner. In the injector outlets there are individual filter baskets. I used a long, thin screw to gently screw into them, and then a sharp pull freed them They all had some traces of dirt on them, but nothing major. I soaked them in brake clean overnight and then refitted them The regulator was the last part to clean and overhaul. This resides on the side and is a 5/8" hex. I ordered a replacement seal kit from Delorean GO as they use the same part in their Kjet setup. The regulator kit is PN 102807A and I also got a new seal for between the fuel distributor and airbox, PN 102855 I used a small pick to remove the old seals, and replaced them with the new green ones. The old ones looked in good shape, I wonder if they had been replaced recently to try and fix the issue? Be careful handling the regulator too, just above the o-ring in the below photo are two very small shims. These set the fuel pressure, so don't lose them! You can add or subtract shims to increase or decrease system pressure. I also did the o-ring on the regulator piston, but no photo of that. That's about all I could do with the distributor without splitting it, and that is a risky job that could result in further damage or leaks. The next part to clean out was the (incorrectly named) Warm Up Regulator. This is the main control pressure regulator (the one above only controls the system pressure), and controls how rich or lean the engine runs. It has two bolts holding it down, two fuel banjo fittings, a power connector, and a vacuum hose. Mine was pretty grotty. A lot of parts on the engine have been badly painted grey, which is flaking off and being ugly. I'll deal with that another time. I could see some dirt in the inlet mesh already, so not a good start. There isn't a lot to break on these, but take care taking it apart. Opening it up is easy; there are four screws on the bottom, which when removed will split the two halves. There are a few things of interest inside the top half Orange Arrow - Adjustment pin for COLD pressure Green Arrow - Heater element Blue Arrow - Bimetallic Strip Red Arrow - "Mexican Hat" and pin Bascially, when the engine is cold it needs a richer mixture, like a choke on a carb. A LOWER control pressure will give this result. The springs in the bottom half press on the mexican hat, which pushes on the pin, which then places pressure on the diaphragm via a little cup. This force is countered by the bimetallic strip, which pushes down on the mexican hat when cold, reducing the internal restriction. Of course you couldn't run that rich all the time, so to lean it out when warm, the WUR is warmed by both engine ambient heat, and by a 12v heating element. This heat causes the bimetallic strip to slowly bow upwards, which releases pressure against the mexican hat, allowing it to rise up and towards the diaphragm, creating an internal restriction, raising the control pressure, and leaning the mixture. The cold pressure is set by adjusting how much the bimetallic strip pushes down on the mexican hat when cold. This is done by moving the adjustment pin up and down.... with a hammer and punch. Anyway, to continue disassembly you need to remove the clip that retains the heater connector. A large screwdriver to lever it out does the trick And then remove the 10mm nut from the bimetallic strip and remove it. Take note of the washer placement This is the fuel unit containing the cup and diaphragm. I have removed two of the screws already. The cup is in the middle, filled with grease (to lubricate and retain the pin) CAREFULLY remove the disk and diaphragm. Don't damage the diaphragm as its hard to get a replacement (although there are some rebuild kits on eBay now which may work). Removing these gives you access to the o-ring and fuel ports. One of them has a very fine five-layer mesh filter in it. Internet wisdom says to clean it, but not to remove it as it can cause issues with pressures if you do (reduces restriction). I hosed it from inside out with brake clean, and got a whole heap of what I can only describe as a fine sand from it. There was heaps. After much testing, I eventually went back and actually threw the disassembled top half into my ultrasonic cleaner, which seemed to clean the filter out well. I tested it by shining a light through it, and there were some big differences in how much light came through. There was almost no light passing through at first, before cleaning. Cool moody shot from that night I refit the distributor and WUR, and refit the fuel pipes I also plumbed in the fuel pressure testing kit, between the fuel distributor and WUR. The system pressure was a little low, it should be over 5BAR But the cold control pressure was crazy. It should be about 0.5BAR, not 3.6BAR! Keep in mind this is after only cleaning, but without any adjustments. No wonder the car was leaning out hard. Remember, higher pressure is a leaner mixture. This triggered the next couple of weeks messing with the system trying to iron out the pressures. I tried many things, including running the WUR naked, with no internals And setting the pressure with the adjustment pin, located here Then it all started to turn to custard, and the system pressure was low at about 4BAR, and wouldn't come up even with additional shims in the regulator. This lead to buying a replacement fuel pump. The old pump is pretty easy to remove. Four bolts hold the mount to the car, two hoses, and two wires need to be removed. I clamped the feed hose as the tanks had fuel in them now and set about removing the pump Pump on the bench The pump has an inlet filter in it, and this is what came out of that filter. It's not rust, which is good, but almost looks like fluff, some organic matter (bits of leaf?) and a lump of metal, which kinda looks like lead or solder. I might get a pre-pump filter. The new pump is bigger and slightly longer, but otherwise a direct replacement. I couldn't reuse the sleeve from the old pump, but reused the rubber insulator The old pump was a Bosch 0580464125. A good pump, but mine wasn't having a good time anymore. The replacement is a generic pump which met the required criteria (high flow, and up to 8BAR pressure). The new pump sounds nicer, but the system pressure hasn't changed much at all. I tried adding a whopping great washer as a shim on the regulator and finally got 5BAR pressure, but I'm sure that isn't right. I have had the WUR open so many times now that I can open it in about 30 seconds for adjustment, but I'm still getting weird results. Right now, the system pressure is around 5BAR with the extra shims. The cold control pressure should be about 0.5BAR (as that's what I dropped it down to after resetting the pin) but either it's very slow to rise on the gauge, or doesn't rise at all now. Warm pressure is about 2BAR, 0.9BAR too low. The new pump can obviously do the pressure, but its either being restricted or bled off somewhere. There are no leaks, and the fuel filter was replaced when I got the car (although I do now wonder about it after the pump packing a sad). Anyway, I reassembled the intake today, and removed the pressure tester And fired the car into life. It had some issues at first, but tweaking the mixture screw sorted that out and it idled OK, albeit a bit lumpy and revved on about 5 cylinders. The more I ran the car, the more it was happy to pick up all the cylinders and rev again. I set the idle by ear, and so far I have taken it for a dodgy run back and forth along my road, which it seemed OK. I haven't been brave enough to take it further yet as I might take a support car with me just in case it dies in the middle of the road again. I still want to know what the pressures are doing, but I suspect there is an issue with my pressure tester. Either that or I have a weird issue in my KJet system. I'm trying to source a second testing setup now to compare and see what happens. If I can set the pressures correctly, in theory I should be able to get a nice happy running car. Fingers crossed. Oh, it wouldn't be my car if it didn't spill some coolant. Thankfully I believe this is just from me overfilling the radiator, as it was from the overflow. Looks like it'll need a flush at some point too.
  12. 23 points
    So over 18 months and 100% of not much achieved. Was hoping to use this thing as wedding car, didn't leave myself enough time to do anything substantial. What to do? How about the bare minimum? Pulled the rims off, they'd been painted over the original cream, with the body colour turquoise, was looking kinda shitty. IMG_20191031_082525 by John Bell, on Flickr The old retreads were pretty nasty and mostly tore to bits coming off. Glad to see the back of them. Had the rims blasted and painted close enough to factory cream. On closer inspection 1 rim is a different style/offset. It is now the spare. Might keep an eye out for another correct one. IMG_20191109_115330 by John Bell, on Flickr Mounted the tyres, went tubeless, which may not be advised on tube style rims. Fuck tubes though right? IMG_20191109_160709 by John Bell, on Flickr Got some fasteners for the spare on the bonnet. IMG_20191110_182034 by John Bell, on Flickr Gave the insides a clean out, decades of farmer stuff, dozens of earplugs, gloves, matches, boot polish, all sorts. Found a 1985 pocket calendar behind one of the vents. IMG_20191110_180321 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191110_180330 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191110_180335 by John Bell, on Flickr There was also this shaft and repaired, and destroyed gear, unsure if Land Rover or just farm trash. IMG_20191110_155444 by John Bell, on Flickr Put some new cheap repro mirrors on, secured the battery. Scrubbed the insides and badly recovered one seat base. Got both vents freed up/attached and working nice. Flex out, might get a bit more with a good weight on the back. IMG_20191118_121605 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191118_121418 by John Bell, on Flickr Still a bad fit with much travel, and as manky as ever. IMG_20191118_121511 by John Bell, on Flickr Went to a wedding received_2427387784166746 by John Bell, on Flickr Have gotten a bit of a kick out of using it, so will try and keep the ball rolling. Although its driveable, basically everything needs touching up to some extent, time to chip away as funds and time allows. Talky link https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56349-johnnyfives-land-rover/
  13. 21 points
    Whilst digging around the internet a few months back I came across a listing for my Thames dated around the end of 2010. This was just before the PO bought it and embarked on the bare metal restoration. At that stage the van was still in its original blue paintwork with heaps of patina. The wording for the listing is in pdf format so I'm unable to upload it, but it makes for interesting reading so I'll transcribe it into a posting when I get a chance. In the mean time here are some pics of the van as it looked back in 2010.
  14. 21 points
    Taking way longer and changing more stuff than planed. Although thats fairly normal with this thing. Fuel filters were in the way of new intake. so have run new fuel lines. mounted new filter by the fuel tank. line splits in engine bay for the 2 rails. reused and remounted the old hard line feed for the return. Not much to look at here. pretty clean under there, because all the dirt is now in my eyes. ali exhaust hanging in there. Pulled the transfer case mounted e brake off. handbrake cable doesn't fit with throttles. that was enough of an excuse to throw that junk in the bin. Its heavy and have hated on it since i got it. will be no handbrake guy for awhile. untill i get motivated to make a new setup. chucked a new driveshaft seal in while was there, since leaky Throttles assembled and balanced ready to go on vac rail finished. air bybass on back. map,bov,fpr on front. some butchery of an old throttle body welded on bottom for throttle linkage throttles bolted on for good. fuel rails and lines mocked up ready to go. yeah i cheaped out on fancy banjo fittings. Moved ps reso to other side of engine bay and redone all the lines, as they were pretty janky before. moving the reso along with new intercooler pipes, frees up the whole corner in front of the turbo for a better airbox setup. that someday may make. hmmm wires, not keen
  15. 20 points
    I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount
  16. 19 points
    threw the seal kit into the carbs and no more leaks and no more lean spitting. (also put new O rings in the soft mount kit) went for a drive around the block and it cruised great but any time you tried to accelerate quickly it would hit the wall hard and sound like a rev limiter. not something you could drive through. clearly a major issue in the carb setup. Luckily i took photos off all the jets and tubes while i was rekitting them. Went inside for a coffee and looked up some suggested specs. found all the jets to be similar enough to the suggested specs that they were probably within tune, except for the venturi chokes, the were 30mm and suggested was around 35mm. Included with the car was a set of 34mm chokes, im not sure why the 30s were swapped in but i doubt it ever drove well. fitted the 34mms and it woke right up! still not perfect, but it runs pretty bloody strong! comes on cam (i heavily suspect its hiding something fun under the cam cover) pretty hard and sounds like the apocalypse at about 5000rpm. wof very soon and then ill have to try get some video. only new photo i have is of the grill i had a play around with painting. quite like it.
  17. 19 points
    this is the 1st set of headers iver ever made and no i cant tig weld so mig was used........they will be wrapped to cover my shame ........and heat. so i dont like any of the off the shelf headers for the 4.1 and much prefer the huge looping JDM style headers .. these are the crap headers that cam on the motor. the only good part was the flangers so i cut them off to re use. i was talking to a guy in aussie that builds high performance 200 and 250 xflow motors and he said the ideal set up for a street car and will work with a lot of setups. 6 into 2 using front 3 and rear 3...41mm tube 660mm primerys 3into 1 collector.....then 2" -2.5" dual exhaust to the rear of the car with mufflers and a v8 stlye x pipe.. so i ordered some bends.........and i got all 6 within 10 mm of the 660mm and each other. at least there is room to play with then started with the setup i wanted it to look like before i build the rest. then made the rest front 3 rear 3 bolted in
  18. 19 points
    This is running again. with some some mixed results. Makes the same power as the old setup, with almost identical power curve. This is good, wasn't expecting it to make anymore power. runs nice. Swapped in the big inlet cam. As on old setup made another 15kw on same boost, but ran junk. (see top of this page) Ran better on this setup but still rough idle. Now where it gets weird; Had to add a decent amount more fuel, but only had very small power gains over stock cams. Tried all sorts, no dice. Still unsure whats going on. Ended up swapping back to stock cams. One major benefit of the itb setup is how well it runs down at idle. before with the big plenum and single throttle it would stall out real easy. much below 1000rpm and would just die. now it will go right down to 500rpm and keep chugging along. Have also added a simple on/off air bypass solenoid. programmed for idle up on cold start and when fans come on. Also doesn't vibrate it self to bits like the old setup. Still need to fix and tidy some stuff up. plus finish the tune. then im a gonna go destroy the paddock Next up steering servo for full scale rc hilux:
  19. 19 points
  20. 18 points
    As well as the underside/diff above, In parallel i was called up by an upholsterer (Grant) I have been on a waiting list for about 2 years... He is known world wide for the fantastic replica celica seat covers he makes. I have had a roll of the original rare GT seat vinyl material squirreled away for years, waiting for the right time to redo the seats. I also sourced some seat vents that were as close to the originals i could get. Plus I sourced a second lot of Ivory vinyl to do the RA28 celica too - so i got 2 sets made by him. So i gutted the interior out. The back seat frames are known to get damp and rust .. So i repaired it and repainted it in copper paint like original. And repainted the back too. cleaned/painted the rails and tilt mechanisms I got the seat covers re-fitted by Grant and reassembled SLEEEK's seats at the weekend. He also kindly remade the original handbrake and gearstick boots
  21. 17 points
    Plan is to finish wiring Richies KP then hit this thing hard. For now have swapped out the front carpet as it was a bit shit, and fitted the lights. Its back in storage now. There's a looooong way to go.
  22. 17 points
    Neat stuff. Some cool looking bikes at that ride. I might be a bit soft, but I would 100% choose an uncool comfortable bike for this ride. Photo heavy post. Drove around the route on Saturday with the dog. Where possible, probably going a little bit quicker than the bikes, average speed below 50km/h, in some places, much much less. Looks to be about 540km, and without measuring, I'd guess at least 200km of gravel, probably more. Te Urewera Trip by John Bell, on Flickr Somehow this is only measuring about 500km, and the start/finish altitude is a bit off. But there appears to be about 5km of climbs and descents. As you can see, some quite sharp. Altitude Te Urewera trip by John Bell, on Flickr There is a LOT of animals on the road in places, cows, goats, sheep, pigs, horse, dogs, a man with a drink-bottle-bong, plus more. Care needs to be taken. In places we're literally driving through a farm, cattlestops and roaming livestock. IMG_20191026_085406 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_085356 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_091924 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_090517 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_091531 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_092942 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_092945 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_114804 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_115114 by John Bell, on Flickr Plenty of places to stop and look at things. PANO_20191026_074059 by John Bell, on Flickr PANO_20191026_100147 by John Bell, on Flickr PANO_20191026_100219 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_100754 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_140633 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_105514 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191026_105328 by John Bell, on Flickr Remember this sign, we're staying here. IMG_20191026_102404 by John Bell, on Flickr Not sure where I was going with this post, but oh boy its a fun route. Please don't get lost, its not exactly clear which way we're going at times. 2019-10-28_11-50-50 by John Bell, on Flickr
  23. 16 points
  24. 15 points
    PPSC shakedown run went alright yesterday, i loaded up with gear just to make sure it stayed on the bike, great success. Ridge road - Apiti pub - pohangina loop from palmy. Bikes were neck and neck matched. Mine was rich, couldnt figure out why, pulled carb apart one more time and whilst doing so found a rag jammed in the piece of the casing that connects the carb housing to the airbox from when i paint stripped the engine. that explains it being flat as hell until 8000rpms Gr8 success
  25. 15 points
    Outer camtree patterns 2 of 2
  26. 15 points
    Diff out With it out - i thought the underside looked like shit so i scrubbed, cleaned, sanded, and painted it. and - finally put the diff in..
  27. 15 points
    Bit more time today, mocked up fuses /relays on a piece of ply to make sure it all works, well get a better panel for them to sit on later (maybe) Put the fuses in and tested it tonight, fuel pump relay's doing its two second prime and the ecu is registering engine speed and injector duty.. Tomoz I'll install the pump and inlet plenum for the last time.. Battery is turning it over super quick, thought for a sec I'd taken out the plugs.. Pretty excited.. One step closer to you know what..
  28. 14 points
    With the engine and trans in I started to look at what I was going to do for an exhaust I can choose 2 of the following 3 items Rh torsion bar Oil filter An exhaust that actually flows So I think the best option is to put coil springs in it and get rid of the torsion bars. I knocked up a dummy coilover using parts I had kicking around. I'll go see autolign this week and see if they can make a bilstein shock with a circlip adjustable lower platform and I can use the threaded one at the top. If this plan works I'll need to modify the lower arm inner pivot bush and strengthen the shock mount to cope with the weight
  29. 14 points
    Been pretty busy getting my shit sorted and moving to dunedin. Settling in now, so a bit of a belated update on the ol 125. On the way to the WoF man, gave it some doort and it started running on 3. FUUUCK Turned out the old greasy filter sock got cookie cuttered. Ripped them all off and ran #nofilter Underside up on the hoist, i never see this view otherwise oil is mostly cavity wax, but there a pretty bad diff leak, again, not enough to fail tho, so woot! Thats all 3 road legal ready for convoy in a couple of months. Then pretty much straight into storage, not actally had these side by side before, Spot the differences, 1969 model italian mid sized executive family sedan vs 1989 model polish farmers truck storage for the next couple of months
  30. 13 points
    Me with the QCR contingent My C50. Aarons long dog C50 thats longer than two Monkeys of Jesse and Harriets then Hogans wild Dax & Zains wild Chaly. Took out 5 of 7 awards at the show before the ride. Great event and well worthy of interisland travel
  31. 12 points
    Okey, attendees as of 9-11-19, no more please. @johnnyfive @Vintage Grumble @MopedNZ @GuyWithAviators @Shakotom @cletus @tortron @datlow @keltik @Truenotch @TimShadboltfan27 @WankBankA100 @BLIZZO @MaxPower @Dolan @Mitch.W @Tumeke @Tumeke's brother Brett @UTERUS @Ned @RUNAMUCK @Zeubin @Atex Lee Dan Shannon @Deano Mike @mark105 @Geophy @Duke Blackwood @Geophy's Dad @peteretep @Beaver @Archetype Lance/Julio Ryk Chris/Tofa @anglia4 @anglia4's Dad Paul ThatSlowGuyOnTheRuckus/Dan @RUNAMUCK You've specified you're riding in a support vehicle? Pretty sure no? At this stage I've turned the entry form off, as we're at about the number we were last year. I understand not everyone that has entered is travelling by bike, and not everyone entered will make it to the start (be real). If anyone feels like they're really damn keen to come still PM me, or post up in here with your explanation for being late for the class (the shame). Logistically its going to be impossible to guide everyone around the route, as ~40 bikes and 3 cars and trailers stopped at every intersection is not happening. There is no way I could wait and point each person up X road then make it to the front by the next one. I will try and provide some rough printed/digital directions on the route. Kinda like 10km turn left on shit creek road 110km turn right to rape dungeon alley I might try and specify a few major/safe places for regrouping, its up to the individual, but the vehicles and slow people at the back will appreciate it. All I ask is that everyone doesn't just blindly charge on, following the guy in front, assuming they're on track. Have some idea of your next meeting point/turn. As far as 3 vehicles and trailers go, well, OK. But consider like a kilometre (if together) of slow ass bikes clogging up narrow rural 100km/h roads, then 3 vehicles with trailers doing 30km/h up a slight incline behind them. That sounds awful. Also one person stops for a durry, nek minute the road is impassible with people everywhere just pulled up all over the place. Gives me nightmares. Young Brody in his venerable bush Hilux, just wants to go poach some deer, wasn't expecting this, and has no patience for it. Hes 3 rocks deep this morning and isn't slowing down for anyone. So yeah, if everyone could be prepared, self sufficient, and a bit thoughtful of themselves/surroundings. That'd be greaat. Coincidence group of un-associated biker riders, you do you.
  32. 12 points
    Pushed it outside for some vitamin D. Still lots of bits missing and bits to torque up but at least it rolls! And some old sales material I came across. Early shot of the production line and a sweet exploded view of the side frame and panels.
  33. 12 points
    ticked another thing off the list......fuel pump. i went with falcon BA turbo intank setup....reasons being they are cheap second hand (this one $40) as they have a tenancy to stop working.......the main reason for that is they rise and sink with fuel level and tend to full with crap ....rise and not sink back down so they suffer from starvation .. they supply more than enough fuel for my needs and new or second hand readily available. . it will be fine for me as i will mount it at full compression so no need to rise and sink....i just needed to make a mounting plate then i had to cut a hole in my brand new tank weld it in add some riv nuts all done
  34. 12 points
    Got things back together. The gear stick is slightly closer to the driver now which is both helpful but I have also now lost all my reference points Left a car park entrance with a fair bit of speed on, and the drivers door flew open. Not the first time this has occurred so also adjusted the latches, they are pretty well worn however. Slam locks always draw attention as members of the public probably think I'm furious about something. In reality I just want to go home without falling out. Tried to go and find some puddles or things to drive over at the Waimak but access is pretty well blocked off. Found some old photos anyway Moments before this occurred, I believe the driver said, "Watch this!" Which resulted in trying tow the range rover out, which went well... My car did back out of that, but a man with a snatch rope had to come and rescue the range rover. There are computers under the drivers seat for things like the airbag suspension etc. Which were under water... This was a few years ago and I believe it's all fixed now. Keen to try and find some spots around Christchurch for more of the above, Waimak and also Mcleans Island seem like a no go anymore though...
  35. 11 points
  36. 11 points
    I've been pining over scooters for a while and nothing to ride apart from the cruiser. edit: and a mountain bike that looks like too much effort that I forgot about. Recent events have led me to believe that I've just been lucky and dodged a bullet on the cruiser more than once and I've pushed it as far as I can go, so I've been in a circle of stagnation for the past 3-4yrs wondering what to do as I need a frame that will support speed and weight but I didn't want to go down the part of a purpose built thing the looks all shiny and..well, Purpose Built. Anyhoo, a recent discussion with Neal and the idea of a light scoot frame seemed to fit the bill, a quick "anyone got a light scooter?' on OS and hey presto, Raizer has been relieved of a part of his hoard. GC even delivered it! So here she is.. The eagle eyed will have spotted the odd blemish like the welded kick start that's been welded on the wrong side, but according to Raiz, that's all that needs fixing and she's a runner! Plans thus far: - Maybe get it running on it's original fossil fuel power plant - Attempt rego. - Maybe transplant said engine and go electric - Maybe add some noisy speed enhancers Tidy'er up and have me some fun. Nice to finally have another fun project on the go.
  37. 11 points
    Well, Page 3... Rest assured heaps of work has been done on this, I'm just not sure how good I have been at taking photos. Got the body mounts all tacked up, and the tray welded back together Loaded them both up on the Lexus tow rig and dragged them into work one Saturday a few weeks back. Dropped the tray off to our resident sandblaster, had the whole thing blasted and epoxy primed, cost a grand total of 1x bottle of Jack Daniels, cheers work/Ian. Haha (Have since got it back, prepped it and as of yesterday is fully coated in black Raptor liner, loooks goooood, but forgot to grab a pic) Got the mounts welded in by a ticketed welder Bill from work (I know the ticket isn't so important/relevant but he is a much better welder than myself) took it by Shane Speight on the monday and got the ok on them, so I could go ahead and paint it. Got the flywheel and new clutch on, and finally got the engine in mated (ish, still need the last of the proper bolts) to the gearbox and one passenger side mount. Drivers side doesn't line up, only off by a little bit so will just make up a bracket between the block and factory mount, one of the jobs for this weekend. For the moment it is chocked up with an appropriate length of wood, custom yo. Put the body back over the top to do a final check for clearance, took a bit more off after this to make sure there is plenty of room for things to move. Put the intercooler pipes/joiners in to se what clearance issues I had for them. Cut as necessary, fold up patches, weld em in. Still more to do. That's part of this weekends jobs, worked on it last weekend but was doing paint stuff during the week (on the tray) so couldn't do any more because dust. Also semi-finished the removable rad support section, needs some more bits welded which are a lot easier to do now it is out. Got crush tubes welded in the rad support itself which I forgot to take photos of. Plans for the weekend are to finish the tray by cutting the aluminum checker (chequer?) plate to size as I have shortened the tray, and siliconing/riveting and screwing it down to finish it up. Other than that just more cutting, folding, welding, grinding etc, on panel steel. Might even make a start on the engine cover/firewall if I am lucky. Wish I had a bead roller to get some extra strength in this, but realistically it is probably all stronger than what I am cutting out as is. Chur, Hayden
  38. 11 points
    Massive thanks to my dad for panelbeating and polishing every single piece of stainless on the car of which theres a lot. Hate to think how long that took Also a big thanks to @toy-mota fior selling me his nos grille and surround thing, It really finishes off the front of the car
  39. 11 points
    Is anyone going to have WOF & Rego? Surely noone actually rego's a motorbike...? React trophy for Yes. Laughing for No. Edit: can't react to my own post but
  40. 11 points
    Well I’ve started taking all the carpets out and will clean them up - they are all the original carpets and seem decent. A bit of water has got in to the car so drying everything out. Headlining is a bit grubby so I will need to google a solution that won’t stuff it or if anyone has suggestions. Steel work under carpets is remarkably good as is the rest of Car now that I’ve had a good look over it. Took spark plugs out and they are sooty but things look good in there . Clutch pedal was stuck up and Slave was stuck engaged - I loosened the slave and the actuator spring back - tested master and all good so only a slave needed here - no siezed clutch mechanisms- YAY!! . I have ordered a slave . Have been in contact with a local guy with the same affliction as me and he has a hydrolastic displacer I will swap out - involves removing rear sub frame so ..... yea . Will get battery and get this baby started soon - suspect dicky icky pump and shiddy fuel but who knows
  41. 11 points
    One month left until the Urewera ride and I’ve barely touched the MX100. It needs a lot of work before doing a 500+km mission, so I was looking at taking the FS1 again. Then one day an old acquaintance sent me a message on Facebook: The price was right and it has a couple of upgrades (GN125 rear shocks!). Thanks to @crustywhip for the OSGC freight service to get it up to Hamilton. There’s a list of things to do, but it will all be achievable within 4 weeks. Hopefully it’ll be ready for a medium distance shakedown by mid November! So far I’ve taken it for a brief squirt up the road. Wound it out to 70kph at low rpm in 5th, so it should have a reasonable cruising speed for the open road stages.
  42. 10 points
    So I bought this old dear. It is so utterly ridiculous that I simply had to have it. I pick it up tomorrow and hope she’ll be a fairly straight forward recommissioning of this barn find. Motor turns over but doesn’t start - looks and sounds good though and was driven to the shed it was parked in clutch is stuck but I believe that will be the pivot - not a deal breaker hydrolastic a little saggy on one side but there has been new pipes on it and some no signs of a leak interior and body are bloody good - check out those leather seats - they are mint! Body looks very very good and will clean up beautifully dead rego but all the papers and plates are present
  43. 10 points
    Click to make Prius/Leaf owners shudder (video): https://photos.app.goo.gl/uRc2eN1EWPMey9Jp7
  44. 10 points
    Inner core patterns for the cam tree complete.
  45. 10 points
    Surprised myself and had a few weeks left so started into the rust repairs Came up pretty well, no filler needed
  46. 10 points
    Dip it is. 200 in folding it’s far cheaper then sand blasting. should be ready end of next week where it’ll go off to the electro platers
  47. 10 points
  48. 10 points
    Repainted brake booster and did some more assembly today. Gave the guards a good scrub down and cleaned the drain channels out. What are you guys using to seal between guards and body along the top seam and what's the best website for acquiring m6 toyota bolt kits? Really struggling with putting crusty parts back on so if anyone could reccomend somewhere in Auckland to get front and rear crossmembers and castor brackets, sway bar and lower control arms powdercoated that would be awesome.
  49. 10 points
    So after a few months of limited use due to winter weather, it was time for a new WOF. I was worried after all news about NZTA and with sweat running off my brow I took it to the AA testing station. Didn't take long to get called over to the pit. Three patches in the floor /sill had rust. No worries I'll send it to the panelbeater I thought. Then as I waited for it to go through the rest of the test, I heard the tester having trouble getting it into gear. Thought that was strange. Failed on the rust, one tyre a bit bald, surface rust on the brake booster. No problem. Jumped into it and I had trouble getting in gear. I dont live far from the testing station so felt I would make it. But there were major road works and Friday traffic was at a standstill. Then on the GI roundabout the clutch shat itself. Wouldn't go into any gear and traffic was too bad to start in gear. Pushed it into a car park and waited for my son to tow me. Done a few gearbox replacements on the old esky so thought no worries. Had a Friday night with the family out so ripped into it. Had lots of problems getting the gearbox out, ended almost dropping the engine out to get clearance. Different tunnel and rs2000 box! Release bearing lugs broken was the problem. Problem was I didn't know at the time it was a rs2000 box so had trouble getting the clutch and bearing. Finally sorted and back in. Off to the panelbeaters again for the floor repairs. Then got a great deal on some new tyres so got four. A few months passed then back to the testing station. Sweated, but passed. Yay.
  50. 10 points
    One adventure Tyre fitted, so I’m pretty much ready right......
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