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  1. 50 points
    Exciting times here at the only Imp workshop in the valley. It runs! But typically there are a few small hiccups. Some actually quite comical. I think we should re-wind back to where we left off last time. So I needed a new ball to see the gear stick through until I can get a decent proper replacement. I had bought a section of nylon/teflon bar. I made a gauge from card to match the curve inside the socket that the ball would rotate. Then I reversed that into a gauge that I could place over the bar as I machined it. Not exactly brain surgery. Which leads me to a little giggle about this bit of comedy gold... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THNPmhBl-8I he he. Love it. So yeah.. easy job. I got a pretty match and it came out OK. Works well enough but the reverse lockout plunger spring is a bit too keen and popping the gearstick left into the reverse plane requires quite a sharp movement. Luckily it would be easy enough to sort, except for that removing the engine and box bit.... I might just put up with it. At least I'll never accidentally select reverse when dropping down into second before hurtling around a tight corner feeling the full force of the mighty 68 little Datsun Ponies as they rocket me forwards. But before I got too excited about such F1 levels of performance I thought it might be prudent to protect those little Ponies from breathing in dusty air. I needed an air filter that fitted the space I had (not much area in height available), looked good and was cheap. There was nothing available. So I'll make one. I started with an old but perfectly usable filter from a customers Ford econovan (Mazda really..)... I chopped it up, essentially slicing off a section of the right thickness to suit the height I had. I then grabbed a section of 5mm alloy sheet I had in stock, chopped out two discs with the Jigsaw. Put a hole in one with a holesaw which allowed me to hold it in the lathe to machine it down. Reduced the thickness by 3mm leaving a neat lip around the edge to not only hold the metal filter outer in place but hide and seal the edges... For the lid I welded an old steering wheel boss I had kicking about onto the plate. Then I machined the plate down to suit, like the bottom one and then cut the boss off. Cleaned up the marks and ended up with a filter that fits and looks the part too. I'm very happy with it In place... Note the ugly pipe hanging from the rocker cover breather. I need to sort out something there. The manifold the carb sits on seems to be spot on level since modifying it. Welding castings like this can often be a bit tricky what with porosity and dirty alloy. The datsun item seemed quite clean in this respect... The tiny little Hitachi twin choke carb that sits on top is so dinky. I have no idea exactly what model A series engine its from as I had been given it by a friend who had got it with a job lot of Viva parts. I can only hope that the jetting is correct. I'll soon find out. I might try again with research on the numbers. I had to reconfigure the throttle cable layout to suit its new home. This involved a new pulley to suit the cable pull on offer from the stock Imp throttle pedal... So the filter was sorted, carb in place, cables all hooked up (after buying 3 metres of Shimanos finest brake cable outer to suit the stainles brake inner for a tandem bicycle) and it was all getting a bit exciting. I was starting to get those 'first start, will it start, will it blow up, is the engine actually rooted?' feelings and thoughts. I double checked everything and put some petrol in the tank. No coolant yet- no point if the engine turned out to be a plonker. It would only be one more thing to have to remove. Turned the key as Hannah excitedly watched the engine from the back... Whir, whir, whir, whiiiir, whiiiior, whiiiiiooooouur, whiiiour, whour, wooohour, woooooouur, woor, woor, woo, wo, w....w.. Bugger. Well that battery that charged up ok, seemed ok, was obviously not OK. So we connected the booster pack on. Winding winding winding. Nothing. Hmmm. Has to be spark. Fuel pump, barnd new, was working fine, fuel at carb and at correct level. Fuel smells from exhaust. Spark then. I checked the coil- yep. Power to the coil. I checked it had power when turning over (some ignition switches can fail like this). Yep all good. Checked for spark with spare plug on lead. Nothing. Checked on king lead. Nothing. took cap off and checked rotor. Good. Checked continuity on leads to and from coil to electronic pickup in dizzy. Fine. At this point I was getting a sinking feeling that the pickup module in the dizzy was broke. However I knew that the previous owner had the car running not long before I bought it and there was nothing I'd done that could break it. I checked the polarity on the two wires. It was correct according to the electronic ignition swap thread on Datsun 1200 wiki. i had a look at all the photos I had taken of the wiring before I pulled the car apart. Hmmmmm- the two wires are the other way round. I did some more quick googling and it seems that they should be that way. Tech wiki- you lie. Swapped the two wires and this time we had spark- which my hand can attest to as it had 20,000 volts jolt through it. Reconnected plug lead, tried again and this time something. A muffled backfire. Tried again- same thing. Hmmm- timing is way out. Dizzy timing and it was fine- I had previously very carefully setup TDC using the stick and two marks meathod to double check the marks on the crank pulley because the car has got Toyota 5 rib pulleys on it (previous owner had at one point been running a supercharger on this engine) Everything seemed fine. Then Hannah quipped up and said "maybe its 180 degrees out and its on the exhaust stroke?" She was correct. I had spent all that time checking the tdc but not properly checked if both valves were closed. Oh silly me! So we spun the dizzy round and reset its timing. Jumped in the car and on about the second go it started. Yay!!! It sounded good. Not too noisy. Ran it for half a minute, workshop filling with smoke as all the paints, spilt oils, greasy finger prints burnt off. Decided it was worthy of some coolant and so Hannah filled up the system. It took ages to swallow about 9 litres of coolant, even with the bleed nipples open up front. sadly there was a pinhole on the thermostat housing I'd repaired and the old Smiths temp gauge decided that because its parent company was Lucas it would wasn't going to turn up to work. It was getting late so we called it quits and I removed the housing to seal the pin hole. I swapped the gauge over for another one and went to bed. The next day I thought would be the day of the first drive. I excitedly put the number plates on. I didnt want to fit the rear plate in the usual position on the engine cover. There are no holes there, no light, no light mount and the plate is too wide that it akwardly covers over a section each side of the main centre hole. So I drilled two tiny holes and mounted it below the bumper, with a light on one side. I think that I'm going to change the light though for a neat one hidden in the un used and slightly bent crank handle hole on the bumper. But back to the that drive. ooooooh exciting. So exciting I had to go have a nervous poo. Once back I started the car, with the help of the jumper pack and warmed it up a little. Clutch in. oh. That feels weird?.. let the clutch out eased the car out of the workshp into the sunshine, first time this shell has moved under its own steam for a very very long time. Awesome! Righto- lets go. Then suddenly.. gurgle gurgle splatter splatter. Coolant starts running out of the heater onto the passenger floor. Bugger!!!!! Arrrgggggggghhhhhhh! Righto- thats it. I'm over it. We pushed it back in to the workshop, into the corner of shame. I muttered some more choice words and then said to hannah "fark this...Lets go for a bike ride" So we jumped on our cyclocross bikes and went for a strop in the local mountain bike park. I got to contemplate the problems and felt much better once we got home. Then this happened... I had the heater matrix out and on the bench in about one hour of the Craig Charles funk and soul show. Turns out it had frost damage, from cold Canterbury days sitting out in winter (this heater was from Imp 3, the Christchurch car). Luckily I had a good spare!... Then that clutch. It had over extended itself and when I tried it again once back home it pissed fluid everywhere, having jammed a seal... I have swapped in a spare seal, extended the pushrod so it starts from the very start of the piston travel and will watch it- you can pump it out with quick clutch foot action so something aint right. I suspect its the flexible line has inside kink. I'll look to replace it. In normal use the clutch seems ok. Time will tell. Well that was a wall of text! I hope you all enjoyed my ramblings. Oh and the spare temp gauge I fitted is crap too. I'll buy a new complete setup. I promise the next installment will be full of joyous Imp driving tales
  2. 43 points
    Do a wheelie bro
  3. 37 points
    So yeah, took this to the beach. About to go out to the shed and watch it dissolve into a pile of rust. but for now a video: Gearing isn't the best for sand. but other than that and melting the clutch once, it went real well
  4. 35 points
    Hey All, Finally bought a project for my son and I. Want to return it to original, it's pretty good, hasn't been modded, still has factory exhaust!! Found it in a shed 2 years ago, went back last week with a pile of cash and picked it up. It hasn't been on the road since 2003, and hasn't run for at least 5+ years, the owner said it had a computer issue. Was rebuilt before parking up, and was told it had new genuine housings installed. Looking around I think thats correct, it also has new cap and rotor, brand new starter motor, the oil is spotless. It hasn't been crashed and repaired, and the body is as good as a 35 year car can be expected. Haven't seen any major rust at all, underneath looks really good. The fuel tank is completely shot, but after clean the lines, filling the engine with 2 stroke oil to lube it up, then spinning it over with no plugs to get oil pressure up, all seems good. We fired it up last night and it run pretty well for 2 mins, then stopped and we couldn't start it again.
  5. 35 points
    Wow. As the new title suggests. All those little jobs. As all those who have or are undertaking a car project will agree these little jobs certainly do add up. I can skip them or rush them especially as the canvas upon which they attach is so clean and tidy. So is no particular order, due to the fact that some of them I start, then stop when I realise I am missing a vital part which has to wait until the next visit to the big smoke, start on another job in the meantime, go back to last job, forget where I was at with it, then realise I forgot to get the bit even though it was on a list, then start on another bit. While all this happened there was also a fair bit of mini adventures going on because Hannah's brother was over from the UK on holiday. We did some very nice camping, biking, hiking trips with him. Because we all like pretty pictures here's some from a few of the adventures had in a last few weeks... So yeah- working on a car project is tricky when tempted by the outdoors like that Back to the Imp. First big job since the last update was to sort out the wiring. I basically re-wired the whole car. The original layout was not going to work how I wanted it to. There was a fair bit to add for safety, extra features, ease of disassembly, neatness. I bought an extra fuse box as I realised 6 fuses were not enough for what I wanted to do. Photos.. The wiring shop.... I have a fair bit of automotive cable I have collected over the years to use... I mounted the boxes and relays onto a piece of clear lexan. It worked out a very neat way to do it. I also took the instrument cluster apart and cleaned it out 50 years of dust. You can see the amount of connectors that have to be undone to remove the instruments... It just does my head in when I am so used to a couple of plugs, even on the Viva which is the same era. So I added multi pin plugs to the loom. Easy now. Fuses and relays in position... The race car came with an extra gauge pod below the dash. I bought a new electric oil pressure gauge, got given a very neat wee rev counter by my good friend Dean (cheers!!! ) and kept the Smiths temp gauge in place. I didnt like the way the pod was wider then the heater control bracket I was mounting it to. So I made a tapered mount to fit between them.... Gauges and dash etc as it now... Other things added were a neat wee push button switch for an electric washer pump because all the squeezypush type squirty rubber butons had perished. I added extra wires for a stereo, amp, electric water pump, under dash footwell lighting etc. Moving to the back. I re-wired the whole lot. Not much to see because all the wires are now tucked out of the way. I needed an alternator belt tensioning bracket. The datsun item was horrid.. So I made a new one. However I cocked up and soon found out it didnt quite line up. I had to had a bit.... In the end it turned out sweet and I'm very chuffed with it ... Now moving up to the front. The battery. It needed a home so it wouldn't slide about. I made an alloy box from some thin sheet. It bolts in place to some alloys bars attached to the bulkhead so i only need to remove two cap screws and it can be removed if I need to take the tank out etc. In photos... I made a stainless bracket to take a washer bottle, of which I can not remember where I picked up but have had for years waiting to use on a project. Finally a home for it ... Heater tap. I needed one. The Imp one was knackered so I went to the wreckers and got a couple that would work. Picked the best fitting. I think its from a Honda. Really neat item and should last. Would be an idea replacement for a stock Imp setup too. However I am running both hoses, inlet and outlet, from one side now where they tee off from the main lines. Anyway. Photos. I needed to adapt the old brass fitting so I machined it out and soldered in the straight section of the old u angle pipe... Altered the Honda bracket and made it all fit... Played with some hoses... and ended up with this... Clutch time. hannah and I had a hell of a time trying to get it to bleed up. I finally worked out two things. Firstly- the replacement seal that I had been sold by a 'reputable' brake specialist was the wrong one and its heel diameter was slightly too large meaning the piston was struggling to return. It was a friday, no chance get another so I went through all my seal collection and found this... However it was too large and wouldn't fit. I looked again. Next up out of the box was this... Still no good! Bugger. So instead I machined a new piston to suit a seat that was the right OD but had a larger ID... Now the piston returned. But it still would not drag in fresh fluid. I took the master apart for the 14th time and looked at some other diagrams online. I soon realised that there was a teeny tiny spring washer missing behind the rubber inlet washer. Its not visible in the Haynes manual or mentioned that I could see. I made one from a coil of spring and now had a fully working master cylinder. The clutch bleed up pronto and works fine now! Phew. Latest job I did was last night. I removed the exhaust and added a boss I machined from a 18mm nut for an O2 sensor. Then I was mucking about prepping an 18mm bolt to make a plug for the time being and remembered I still had not only a boss but also a stainless plug left over from the Innovate wideband kit I had fitted in the V6 Viva. Sweet. A nice treat. And that is all for now. Its getting very close. Engine has a new oil filter and oil, coolant needs to be added (and I bet some leaks will need fixing....) and then I just need to make an air filter assembly for the carb. Nothing available to fit the space, at a price I like, so I will build my own from one 5th of a Mazda Van filter I also need to machine up some Nylon bar I bought to make a new pivot ball for the gearlever. Big thanks to John875 from Australia who bothered measure one of his balls for me and post a photo online. It looks like this...
  6. 28 points
    Long time no update.. Not a lot has happened since "16, been to nats banks peninsula, won the grasskhana and didn't miss a beat the whole trip (not that it was a long way) failed a warrant before hand on no horn which took me a while to figure out, turns out there was no earth strap on the rubber coupler to steering box.. Fuck knows how the horn had been going otherwise, And also the hand brake cable on these is mounted via two of these rubber bobbin mounts, they are in fact one of the things I thought would fail the re-vin on but somehow they made it all the way through 6 wofs.. *edit, also failed on the rear muffler which @RUNAMUCK kindly donated.. Multiple hanmeats, the last of which ended up with a fair distance on a potholed gravel road up the back of Hanmer in the snow and rain, the one bonus of the potholes is that my heater fan randomly started working which was terrific as every time it rains the car fogs up like a bitch.. Problem solved. That was 8 months ago..... Decided I should really give her a clean for the next wof.. My little girl was dead keen and came around the corner holding a trade spec scrubbing brush and a wire brush gagging to help, I let her do the wheels, sans wire brush of course.. In the end I did the wheels while she spayed them and me with the hose.. Came up ok, As per the story of my life nothing else on the turbo/injection front has continued because of a lack of working space and the house.. all good tho I guess, she purrs along and is out of the shit brotown weather so I'll just keep driving her as is for now..
  7. 27 points
    Boot lid finished which pretty well completes the panel. It’s going to be a shame to paint it! Stainless trim already to go to the polishers.
  8. 25 points
    If anyone had a lead on a Workshop Manual, that'd be great!!
  9. 25 points
    There's fuck all work on at the mo so took the day off and put the LSD in. Yay for twin spin.
  10. 24 points
    For some reason my wife hasn't murdered me. So here's another project. It popped up on the Facebook market place, which is about the only thing it's good for in my mind. Long story short, the seller had it among several other assorted wrecks on a big off the grid property, the cars were already on the land when he bought it so there is zero history. I wrote out a receipt stating this so I have a way of proving ownership. There is no police history for the plates or chassis number. The plate and chassis are not on Carjam, or NZTA where I spoke to a few people including a supervisor who was very helpful but basically it came down to the fact its not on their records because it must have been deregistered before they moved to a new system in 1994/5. Paper records were kept for 7 years then destroyed....fck. So here I am knowingly buying a unregistered car with no history, no windscreen (unique to the car) and has been left outside for who knows how long. But the metal floor pan is solid. WTF am I getting myself into:
  11. 21 points
    I passed another WOF, by deliberately seeking out a garage who wouldn't fail me on my chipped headlight glass or my worn front brake discs. I'm going to send the Jaag for a wheel alignment to see if it fixes the vibration, so first I had to change the remaining lower wishbone bushes on the more difficult side of the car. I wasn't looking forward to this, because the whole steering rack had to be unbolted so I could move it down and sideways out of the way of this fulcrum shaft: Not sure why Jaguar couldn't have made these fulcrum shafts insert from the front of the car where there's nothing in the way of withdrawing them. Still, the whole reason for doing these bushes was on this side of the car. The inner edge of the bush below had looked bad while the wishbone was still on the car and I couldn't get a good look at it: Actually its mechanical integrity was fine, despite that bit hanging off. And when I say 'fine', I mean relative to how hard it was to replace! Reinstalling the steering rack was horrible because it's a tight fit (I had to use a jack to push it into position) but you've got to precisely line up the rack and its shim thing with the subframe bolt holes. Reinstalling the suspension spring was also horrible because of trying to get the bolt holes in the spring pan to line up exactly with the wishbone while the spring's compressed, so that I wouldn't cross-thread any bolts. Because I can't work on this side of the car in my tiny garage, I had to do this work in view of my neighbours. Trying to align bolt holes in the dark for a conspicuously long time, hands grimy, lying on the ground with moths and mosquitoes, while people passing by correctly conclude that I'm crazy. But it's back together now. =) I noticed that the power steering pump appears to leak, but it's in a horrible spot and I'm not about to tackle it myself. I'm booking the car in for its first visit to some Jaaag specialists, so I can ask them about all its other rattles and whines and clunks. The impossible quest to make a Jaguar into a good car continues.
  12. 18 points
    So I made a start on some plates for this jig. Bumper mounts are actually as straight and as centered as factory. Despite the threaded sections being cut off and replaced with welded on bolts. Then I made the engine mount tie plate. All good so far. I think I will need a laser level to extend the centre points of these to confirm the centre of the car, the toe plate cross member (where the suspension mounts), and the centre of the bar to go in-between the lower suspension mounts. The good news is that everything that hasn't been barried is good and straight. The bad news is, most of its been barried. Good news - I can make the jig in my shed and if I'm within a 1/8th of an inch I'm well within factory tolerances. For example. By spacing the lower suspension mounts out by 3mm you get 1 degree negative camber. So with rubber bushings 1mm is neither here nor there. Bad news I don't think it's worth my time aligning the wonky suspension mount. The other side has also had 2 access holes crookedly drilled in to it (despite there being a fresh air access hole on the back side of both....) Good news - there's only about 50 spot welds holding the whole cross member onto the car and because time is money buying a replacement panel is relatively painless. I will need to wait till the new one arrives to confirm some measurements. The battery box and support can be remade while I'm at that as well. The only other area of concern is the repairs around the rear front spring hangers. Its not exactly pretty, but nothing is out of alignment. Will get the hard word from the inspector, these panels are cheap enough just to replace the whole rear floor anyways... Anyway here's the relevant section of the Morris mono construction manual. Everybody else with a copy seems to think it's not to be shared
  13. 18 points
    Yeah so the 155s on this have been getting a bit low on tread so figured a new set of tyres was on the cards. Was also kind of sick of the stretched look and the fact that they had fuck all grip around any corner. So shelled out for some 185/55r14s. Much happier with how it looks and drives now, wish I'd done it sooner!
  14. 17 points
    Before I bought it I did look into whether you can still get a windscreen. First lead was that he seller said a "guy who does certifications in Lower Hutt also has one". So I rang who I thought it was and turns out he has a Rotary powered one and some spares, but no windscreen. He did say it used to be possible to buy them in Australia but had no contacts. So I joined a FB group for Australian Purvis Eureka owners and trawled through that looking for any mention of windscreens. Ended up posting and asking and got a lead for Moran Motor Glass in Queensland, AU. So I googled them and called, the guy was very helpful and said they can be made to order but the shipping would be bad so said a company they work with in Hamilton should be able to order one. So I rang Windscreens Direct Hamilton and spoke to Dean. He said there are two type so it needs to be measured. But it can be done, they are made in Vietnam and there is a 10 week wait. Cool. A windscreen is possible. The fibreglass windscreen frame is damaged so that needs looking at before ordering one. I figured out that I had the later slightly higher roof line version, this is like GT40 height, or pretty close to it.
  15. 16 points
    And the next morning I got a reply!? The Hospital HR manager said he doesn't know the car/owner but he happens to be the editor for the Constructors Car Club (kits cars, homebuilt etc) and he would pass it on to their Historian who might be able to help. The historian has been an amazing help, he wrote an article about the history of the Purvis Eureka in NZ. Two accountants in NZ got the rights from Alan Purvis of Australia, who owned the rights there after getting the rights from Richard Oakes who designed it in the UK in '71 (ish). The article was very interesting but in summary, they cost too much to make and they only made 7. They had the plan of offering them with either a Rotary or a Ford Crossflow Kent 1600, instead of the most common (in Australia and UK) VW Beetle engine, since they are based on a Beetle floor pan. These were built by Tony Lynch of Lynchbuilt in Auckland. So it looks as though mine is 1 of 5 built with Ford x/flow power. I was given Tony's email address, and I emailed asking if this car was one that he built and if he had any records. To my surprise he replied and again, very helpfully confirmed that he did build them (the final assembly and fabrication) but the body panels, engines, wheels etc were supplied by the guy running the project (with the rights in NZ). So Tony suggested trying to track him down, he unfortunately hasn't been in contact for many years so wasn't able to help there. So I looked up the name and the word accountant which lead to one possible option, which kind of fit. An address is all I have to go on so I've just printed out a letter with some photos, in the small chance it is the same guy. If it isn't they might get a bit of entertainment out of it I guess. No harm in trying.
  16. 16 points
    Firstly thanks for removing the rogue @dave from my thread. ban that guy Couldn't be bothered getting off the couch the other day so made a video. Kinda looks like a 12 year olds school project and if you've been following this thread, would have seen most of it before. should be slightly amusing none the less
  17. 16 points
    I'm just looking forward to seeing a Leaf with a Flathead Ford V8.
  18. 16 points
    More adventures in my wagon. Decided to break out the old DLSR camera and take some nice shots of the wagon, instead of just using my iPhone Lots more car shows. Went to the Waiau Pa Hop and Papakura Club car shows. Parked up with my mate Hamish in his 1978 Avenger GLS Went to the Renegade Hot Rod and Custom Anzac show and one Best Other Went up to Whangarei for the Rev Up show. Parted up with Kevin's 1979 Avenger, love the shade of green, it looks so beautiful in person We then drove out to the Packard museum The day after that I cruised over to Caffeine and classics with my neighbour Rob in his 1974 UK imported NZ new wagon. It his so interesting seeing them parked side by side. They almost don't even look like the same car. Mine is so much lower and as a result looks really wide, where his looks tall and skinny Here is a good shot of how much lower mine is, and how big the back wheels are With the wagons, the only thing they changed over the years were the front lights. Mine is a later model Chrysler and Rob's is an early hillman. The wagons are super rare, there is only 28 left registered in New Zealand, including ones with their rego on hold, so I would guess that maybe half of them would be still on the road. So maybe just over a dozen left driving around. To see two of them parked next to each other like this would be extremely rare. Discuss
  19. 15 points
    Replacement chassis legs and engine bay tie plate A roller hoop rotisserie And a bunch of steel plate and tube for various chassis jigs. I'll make something like this from the BLMC minor chassis repair manual.
  20. 14 points
  21. 13 points
    Decided to clean up the interior a little The center console was looking tired so I dissembled it and gave it a clean and paint. Found an old photo of when I got it I also cleaned up and painted the bottom section of the dash, both front ash trays and front foot well kick panels and passenger magazine holder thingy but didnt take photos so you'll just have to take my word for it Cheers for looking
  22. 13 points
  23. 13 points
    right i am meant to be cleaning the work shop right now but i kinda cant be assed and i feel there are a few people that would like to see the details on what its taken to get the bus driving. we left the detailed post at i was off to get my flywheel skimmed up. there was a lip on the other side but for some reason it seemed to have been a sleeve on it or something and i had planned on having to take that to old mate geofphy to get cleaned up but it kinda just fell off when i picked it up. job done. Paul was busy on the phone again but it was sweet i still had jobs i could do, so i proceeded with putting the head studs in want to know why there are three different sizes? well in this photo there are four but dont look to close the longer 8 are for the bottom four on each side, we then have two short short ones for the middle on each side at the top, and then we have two medium size ones for the right hand side of the motor and now we have left is one long and one short for the left hand out side. here is why we have a long one. the casing nut is really far in the block so this is why we need the long one. i went over a few of these with a tap as some were a little funny but most of these were finger tight. and that's a photo of the finished result i ended up lock tightening this bad boy as it was pretty much finger tight and was very lose he hold on the fuel pump btw looks some what like this, thanks to google you'll see this in photos to come. next was the pistons, now on the top of the pistons you will see an arrow, that arrow goes to the fly wheel, and well if you are rebuilding an engine you might not be able to see the arrow so on the bottom of this you will see the little bulge on the piston, that is the equivalent of the arrow. and always place out your circlips with your pistons so if you lose one, you should be able to tell now, top tip. don't do this drunk cause things will go wrong and you'll have to do this again tomorrow. Pauls friends learnt this the hard way you can kinda see the little bulge on the right hand side piston where the vivid mark is now if your clever you put the inside circlip in so you slide the gudgeon pin in with out having to go through the head studs. i guess you'll do it a few times before realizing how much of a retard you are and figuring this out. i probably would have done this tbh. we also put the oil pump in and torqued that up, also put goo in it to oil doesn't come dripping from it. i got told off for been to efficient and maybe putting the studs in a tad to far for these bolts to go on. but hey they worked right..... perfect if you ask me. next day now, time to clean the heads. and what do you know bloody norm (parts lady) has packed the worng heads so i go back and yell at paul, who yells at norm and i yell at norm and well then norm gets the other heads which she got told to grab to begin with. lets see if my new barrels fit in this lot huh. hey hey we have a winner. time to clean these. and then back to the hot water so it can evaporate even thought they wont rust. it was at this stage i got shown this cool two peace crank hows that for cool........ it even drove broken. just made a funny sound. ok time to get back to the engine. time to put all the studs in the heads for the exhaust, intake and the rockers. all done. before i knew it Paul had slid the barrels on and i was over here putting the new oil cooler together now this isn't a factory oil cooler for a standard fan shroud which you would see on most beetles and early kombis. this is what they call a dog house. a dog house fan shroud works a little different and instead of the oil cooler been in the middle and the heat from the oil getting pumped onto the left hand side cylinders it gets air pumped out the back and the air just disappear not heating up those cylinders. here is a photo of one in the shop that paul used and showed me. note the oil cooler there out the back. and here is a photo off google showing you with the extra tin wear on how it works now i asked Paul should i have one of these. he answer was yes. but not cause i said yes, yes cause..... and then explained what i just explained. it was a pretty no brainier why we should be putting one on the engine. i just come across this image as well you might find it help with my bad explaining here is a standard one and the oil cooler usually goes between the letters a and b pretty much and the heat from your oil just gets spun around and onto your cylinders ok so i also had to change the oil cooler bolt. from a standard one to what we are now usuing. doesn't it look so cute. the one on the left is the old guy. we went to see if my windage pus rod tubes would fit next fuck me i just wrote this next section out twice now and hit ctrl z to go back one steep and lost it all fuck me i'm not doing this again or i'm not going to have a fucken computer come tomorrow!! FUCK back to my windage tubes. this is the difference between standard and windage tubes well yeah the next photo is of mine cut down to standard lenght haha this isnt that funny after writing it the 3rd time now ok so now that they are done time for the heads to go on now. and my next job was to do some more cleaning, im getting pretty good at this cleaning stuff now. so cleaned they were and paul chuck the rods in and bolted the rockers up and checked the tolerance and put them at 6 thou while i was off next door doing something else. i asked oh nice were are your feeler gauges, he point at his tool box and said some where in that thing if you want to find them and check. i ended up asking how on earth did you work out what 6 thou is with out using them. his response was when you have cars driving from hours away to your shop and you burn your god dam fingers from checking tolerances you sure as hell learn quick how much 6 thou is and its _____ amount of turn from touching. ok so yeah i didn't check this guy knows whats what. next is the rocker cover and gasket, now what we do here is we smear a little grease on the asked both sides and then slap the covers on. want to why we put grease on the gasket? well the detergent in the grease eats the cork gasket and glues it together so they dont suck in or fall out of place. wish i knew this when i had my 1st bug after it happening so many god dam times on my way to and from leadfoot. old @Archetype will be able to tell you about this experience as well. was not good. so the engine now looks like this as you can see we now have the alternator stand on, yup an alternator not a generator, those can go in the fucken trash. one less thing to fuck out, these things are self regulating as well. next is the tin wear. that wont be hard its all brand new and will just screw right on i laugh so hard!!!! this is what people must think when they but kit set upholstery haha. yup had to modify these peaces to fit. i think it was a total of 5 peaces i cut or modded to fit. and then i took this photo for the Instagram people i really like it. and it was also the end of that day. another day now. next on the list was making the intake bolt up and work. but firstly this bus has vacuum operated boosted breaks. and the vacuum comes from the intake. these intakes come with a little hole in them that we plugged up as its to small and kinda in the way once you try and put everything else there. so we have to drill a new one and find something to make it work as these hoses are huge. drill said hole here. you can also see the black grub screw that was filled. time to dig around in this and we came up with this tapped the hole and put some cement around the fitting before we put it in. call that job done. its at this point its fucken great that Paul has a shop like this with all these little things laying around and taps all different sizes. shits pretty legit now yeah that didnt fit as well, the runners on the intake on the left hand side was a little long, so Paul used and hack saw which would have been as sharp and a bread knife to cut it down to begin with and well yeah had to be cut down some more, i used a grinder with a cutting disk on it i proceeded to ask if he wanted it cut straight or on the piss like he did, got told to shut up smart ass and cut it, and cut it straight! haha bolted it all up and put the carb on as well. time to slap the exhuast on. 1st job 1st j pipes. but wait a min. lets cut some more tin wear haha. these are j pipes btw. they go from the rear of the engine under the block and out the front to meat the other half of the exhaust, factory ones of these have big fins on them and a box around them which heats up and that's were you usually get the heat from for a beetle or a bus in side the car. here is an example of what factory ones look like now the moustache bar. now i know your asking what on earth is that? well this bolts to the engine and acts and the engine mount to the body of the bus. looks like a moustache doesnt it? now for the front half of the exhuast. these usually have heat risers on the top. The heat riser forms two important functions. It prevents ice forming under the carburetor (caused by the fuel evaporating and cooling the inlet air below freezing - icing will eventually block the manifold and stop the engine. (straight cut and paste from google here) but mine were blocked off. they do serve a good purpose. me and my friend grinder sorted this out also Paul put the alternator on at the same point i was doing this. he asked me if i wanted the flash nut or the standard nut, i said whats cheaper, well standard nut it was...... only until he found i had a flash nut for my main crank pulley, but he put a crap nut in there to match my cheap ugly bolt up the top. we now had to put an oil filler neck on this. these come straight for difficulty or bent for a bit easier. guess what guys, the straight one comes black and the nice shiny looking one comes in bent..... well fuck me ok put the bent one on but if ya god dam doing that put the shiny bolts on, so old crapy bolts off and shiny ones back on. this is what im talking about here. these go on the alternator stand this is the straight one and black well now thats on lets put some oil in it time to put it on the engine stand shull we. and that's the night we started it. ( i also just copied all this and put it into a word document incase it didn't save and i was going to be pissssssssed off )
  24. 12 points
    Me and a mate had been looking for new project bike for a while, trawling through Trademe and FB marketplace. This CB350 popped up as an unfinished project that the previous owner wanted move on to fund some of his other Honda classics. Perfect tank shape and in the condition where we don't feel bad chopping and changing a classic. As all good projects start, I picked up the bike in pieces, threw it in the back of the ute and raced home to check it out in detail. Did a loose mockup and pretty much everything thing is there. The previous owner painted the frame which was a nice surprise, however for some reason cut off all the mounts and tabs for the the seat and foot rests/side stands. Plan is to cafe racer it, clipons, rear sets and wider rims. Loving the OG tank colour so the blue will stay, we'll add the Honda wing badges like on my CB250k. Decided to strip the whole thing down in order to get everything vapour blasted, pulled down the motor and that looked like it had been recently rebuilt as it has oversized pistons and the hone on the bore was fresh. The lower front engine mount had snapped off so we split the cases and will be sourcing a new one. Also got started on the rims; Pretty old and rust so we’ll start again with these. Current status:
  25. 12 points
    Tonights effort. engine fully disassembled, except the head. everything looks good, its clearly had coolant in the oil. the bearings are fairly worn, but the surfaces look primo. im piking the wear on the bearings has been from the water. Nothing very obvious on the head gasket though other than being quite brittle and shitty. its had a rebuild before so that could be a contributor now onto cleaning and sourcing new parts.
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