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  1. This is pretty much the finished car. I took it to Clint for a cert. It didn't fail on too much, just some additional fuel line clips needed, a smidge of camber to be wound in, heat sleeving on a brake line on the diff, some nyloc nuts for the seat bolts, and a couple of other very minor things. Anyway here's finally, some proper camera photos of it. 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (369)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (383)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (327)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (350) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (356)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (311)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (294)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (403)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (58)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (66)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (83)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (48)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (160)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (175)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (238)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (263)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (440)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (408)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (306)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1981 Toyota Starlet KP61 4AGE (494)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Thanks for looking, for the past 15 years or so.
    58 points
  2. A while ago I purchased this beastie off Maxted (his build thread below for reference). th Since then it had mostly just sat in the garage while other things took up all the time. THEN Allan got a bit motivated during lockdown and spent a day lowering and putting my wheels on it Ahh, sooo much betterer! We have plans to take this to Napier in the coming weeks, so the race is on to get 'er done. Allan took it for a WOF last week and it had some taillight problems and leaking brake caliper. Top of the list they go!
    48 points
  3. Since the engine bay was stripped it'd be silly not to freshen the paint up. The original paint was like it was just a base coat without any metallic. I got some colour matched and and hit it. Colour and clear. Did I mention it was all done with spray cans? Came out sweet for an engine bay at 11pm on a cold night haha Also, the windscreen is back in. This is the one pulled from the white Surf. Started putting a few things back in their place too. Starting to look like a real truck again.
    39 points
  4. So I got another jalopy, I was searching for a decent triumph sedan when I saw this Lada for sale on marketplace. I thought "Hell, I haven't seen one of those for years!" so promptly went and got it to ensure I wouldn't miss out on the soviet driving experience. My impressions of the car are that it is great - for a car from 1970, by the time this one was made in 89' it was woefully obsolete. I understand they kept making them until 2010 in russia, and 2012 in egypt! The car had been in one family from new, and had been outside most of the time - very little rust and the interior is fine, but the paint was sunbleached to almost white from its original dark beige. I am rather enamored with its factory tool kit, with the tools all stamped cccp. I scoured the oxidation off a bit of the paint and found a good match, repainted it in the driveway, now just need to paint the windowframes black, swap the tyres onto a sweet set of fiat ward rims I found, then have some sweet proletarian adventures.
    37 points
  5. 6.5 years later.. Its lost more paint, gained more cobwebs and has become a useful storage place for all sorts of stuff. But 6 weeks ago a load of local friends formed a yacht club. We had our first event on Sunday. A race out around a local island in the bay and back followed by chilling out on the beach in the lagoon, in the afternoon sun, inhaling nature and drinking Rum. We both went along, helped crew a friends trailer sailor, came fourth in the race, enjoyed the whole process very muchly! I just really loved the whole process of setting the sails, getting things in the right order, reading ahead what the next move should be and how much difference little changes can make to forward progress. I have always been aware that there is a huge technical aspect to sailing but never actually done any of it except a teeny bit of sailing when at Marlborough boys college. I can really see how people get hooked on it, especially racing. I accept that our yacht, being a bilge keeler, will never be super fast but I'll still be giving some racing ago- especially with our new super relaxed club!!! Took some pics... Got back home excited, sunburned and windswept with a slightly giddy head and wobbly legs. First thing we did was clear all the accumulated crap we'd had stored in our little yacht and sat inside it planning our attack on how we shall restore her in time for summer cruising. I took a few pics after having brushed off all the cobwebs, dust, leaves. She's luckily completely dry everywhere which is great so the boat shed we whacked together has been doing its job well. A rat has found its way in and had made a nest in a bag containing a sail. Not so good. Lesson learned. Luckily though the boat doesn't smell at all of rat nor is there any real sign of rat droppings or piss stains. The paint is pretty fucked all over, mainly from the sunshine. I think once restored we will make a drop down sunshade on the shed. So yeah. No progress at all but for a spring clean. Oh and going to the library to get some sailing books. This one here is a really good read!... Also exciting and interesting news for us. After joining the club on facebook I had posted up a few pics of Fiona Mari and lined out our plans. Someone in the club must have sent the link out because I had a private message from a lady... "Hi Alex, how extraordinary! My parents bought Fiona Mari from the Honey's about 1969. Dad, Noel and Alex Trethewey developed the Nolex 22 and 25. Dad drafted up drawings, then built our next trailer yacht based on Fiona Mari and the Nolex design. We have some drawings of Fiona Mari of you are interested. She was white in our care, and like the Honey family, became too small for a growing family of 5. I had hoped to find Fiona Mari a couple of years ago when the Nolex champs and celebrations were in Lyttelton. We are in Chch" Wow! So we chatted a bit about the boat and it turns out that this lady is actually Mum to harry @JustHarry and Wills @Carsnz123 Small world ! here's a pic will sent me of fiona mari when they owned her.. So we will start on the resto soon. We have a very large coffee cart build to finish for a customer over the next two weeks and once that's out I want to get the Micra engine swap finished off. Then we can look to bringing the boat in and hoisting it off the trailer for work. Looking forward to posting some updates here soon!
    36 points
  6. 8th Oct 2021 another move.. As we are relocating to golden bay soon we needed to start moving things so I can pull down the tunnel houses to sell the house. Bought a 40ft high cube container in Nelson (supposedly b grade but when I got up there I discovered a rusty hole in the side.. cunts) and had it shipped to golden bay storage where it costs a measly 2 pints of speights a week for rent. Cue move... Extraction.. (here @yoeddynz you see the winch pole flexing) Then as per usual, metservice decided out was going to rain the entire time I was undertaking this endeavour, hence the wrapping. Finally managed to get out of chch at about 3pm yesterday arvo. Thankfully we arrived about 7.5hrs later in golden bay without any incidents. Apart from it raining almost the entire way up and totally shitting itself in the bay. I could only find a massive 7x7m tarp which inevitably loosened itself and wore some holes so once we made it I had to put an extra blankie on to keep her dry (for the most part). Got woken up twice during the night with torrential downpours. But as luck would have it metservice was wrong about the persistent rain and this morning the sun even came out. Pulled the tarp off to let out air out before it goes in the container for an unspecified amount of time. And in she goes, bought a bunch of 1kg silica packs to hang in there and deal to any moisture that develops in there in the mean time. Also need to jack the container up of the wet ground and put a polythene sheet under it. Going back up there in a week to build a mezzanine floor to store more shit (and pick up the kids which we left with the grandparents). I also had to have the above transporter built as every trailer I looked at was too wide to fit in between the container doors. This has 10mm either side and just fit the landau on with standard rims. Tows fucken great too, so we had lunch then drove back to chch..... Edit*. This car has now travelled more than 3000km. Without a motor....
    36 points
  7. Still work to do but super stoked with this
    34 points
  8. I've also started doing the door cards after procrastinating for a good few months
    33 points
  9. Been tinkering away on this, engine bay is even tidier but I'm pretty hopeless and haven't taken any pics. However, I went for a drive the other night and took a few neat ones. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-196-2-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1258-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1219-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1286-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
    32 points
  10. So a few different things ABS pump / wheel speeds I've not been able to make any progress on the ABS pump swap, because I cant get to an Auckland pick a part site to grab some other wheel speed sensors. Doesnt look like I will be able to any time soon. So for now I've put the regular speedo drive back in, and wired it up. Will just repin to suit standard ABS pump. Track day next Friday! Exciting. Traction control setup Since ABS setup wont work, I have setup a timer based RPM limit instead. If vehicle speed is zero, and you are over 90% throttle. Then the rpm limit changes to 4000rpm. and a timer resets to zero. As soon as it sees that the car has started moving, the timer starts and the rpm limit starts increasing along with the timer up to the normal max. So the idea is that if the rpm goes faster than what is physically possible for the car, it must be because of wheel spin. so a few quick ignition cuts then you're on track again. It's taken a bit of trial and error to setup, but its working good so far. Green line is engine speed and yellow line is the rpm limit. So ideally on a good grippy launch you stay just below the yellow line with no intervention needed. It's not ideal and I'll still pursue getting front and rear wheel speeds. But it's pretty good in the meantime. Rear disc swap It was only $65 at pick a part for an entire disc brake rear end including hand brake cables, ABS sensors etc. So cant complain about that. The only tricky part of swapping it in, is that you need to remove the exhaust in order to remove a heat shield, to swap the hand brake cables. Certainly not the worst swap of this sort I've done. Not sure if I'll get this swapped over in time for track day next Friday. Probably a good idea to get new discs and pads. Trumpet swap So far I've had the best powerband by using some rather long trumpets. They've been through a few iterations fine tuning the angle and lengths so they dont hit the bonnet or the radiator cross member. However the current iteration that I'd settled on still ever so slightly rubs on the bonnet when the motor is under extreme movement. It's only the slightest rub so I'm not actually concerned - and only on one of them. But long term I need an airbox over them and an air filter, so there's simply not enough room. So my only real option was to put a much more aggressive bend in the trumpet and then as a result they are a fair bit shorter. But also more clearance around everything. As a result you cant fit the bolt into the bottom hole anymore, it needs to be slotted So I went for a drive to see how the powerband would change, expecting some slight losses if anything. However so far results are looking better than before, considerably better. Not sure why though. To reach target AFR you can see the closed loop lambda was wanting to add a peak of 22.7% more fuel which is an insane increase. I added the extra fuel then reran, and it stayed on target with minimal trim. So that was interesting. But I'm not quite convinced this is consuming 22% more air with just a trumpet swap. However it's possible that the older trumpets were badly shrouded by the bonnet and the radiator cross member. It's now up to 69.9% duty cycle with the 2ZZ injectors. Previous best was 66%. Although thats only really an indication of what's happening at max rpm. My fuel map is looking increasingly comical. I think I need bigger dia exhaust and/or VVTI to reclaim that mid range. It would be pretty good to get some of that 4000ish rpm region beefed up. On the whole though, have been fixing up some minor issues but I'm as good as ready for track day. Cant wait!
    31 points
  11. i ordered a new intercooler ages ago but it was coming from auz and they went into lockdown right when i ordered it so it took 3 months instead of 3 weeks. anywho it turned up and i went about making it fit. its wider but not as high as the one that was on the car. a quick note about the intercooler that was on the car. its an R32 GTR intercooler that i put on the car about 2007 and it has been through hell and back and it took it all. it stoved the side of Spencer's soarer in, its taken literally hundreds of hits into curbs and driveways and fucking all manner of shit and its never had a leak or a broken tube or anything. this thing needs a place in the hall of fame. so yea, new intercooler will flow WAY better than the old one and the dyno will tell the story. i made a new bracket thing to hold the cooler and it had two mounting holes on the bottom but because i cant use the top ones i thought id add two more to the bottom just because. i only had a small piece of square aluminium so i made it round and welded them on. 3the new intercooler sits about 30mm higher than the old one too so thats a good. at some point imma make a front air dam for this thing. 2021-09-25_06-12-31 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-25_06-11-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-25_06-11-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-26_05-10-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-26_05-10-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-25_06-12-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-09-26_05-10-37 by sheepers, on Flickr
    31 points
  12. time to make a front air dam for this thing. its only been needing one for 16 odd years so I've really not hung around on this. i bought an english wheel and a bead roller, neither of which i have any idea of how to use but you gotta start somewhere. so i made up a wire frame using 3.2 dia welding rods then put some cardboard on it. i used the cardboard as a template to cut out some steel then i went about wheeling a tiny bit of shape into it just to give the pieces some rigidity. with some folding, some beating with a mallet and a bit more rolling i ended up with what you see below. for a first time doing this im fucking amazed at how good it is, im really happy i was able to get the shapes i did without fucking it up too much. having said that im going to start again with the sheetmetal and make another one. i learned heaps just making this first one and i know i can make the second one better so i will give it a go. 2021-10-20_08-03-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-20_08-03-48 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-20_08-03-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-20_08-03-31 by sheepers, on Flickr
    30 points
  13. Progress....... Heard the neighbour wasn't too pleased by my weekend activities on the angle grinder, they're lovely people so went and had a chat to keep the peace, end result I spent a day rearranging the workshop so I could work with the door shut, day behind, but further ahead. Workshop tidied and organised, fizzed on patches The light surround was a challenge, none of the holes would be doubled up on the final placement, took me a while to think of the obvious, dry fit with bolts, drill spot welds, hold with clecos then do a slow and terrible job of trimming off the excess. Not the visual end result I was hoping for this patch, but secure and better than it was plus it will be hidden behind the guard! Drivers floor patch, slight pain to fold up but lots of hammer work to stretch around the corner. The scuttle drain runs down the middle of the firewall, the bottom had folded over (Likely during engine/gearbox swaps) blocking it off and was subsequently full of crap, with the lower edge showing heavy corrosion, I couldn't leave it alone thinking what could be in there, drilling out the spot welds underneath was thankfully only surface rust, wire wheel, treat and epoxy primed. With those patches in I can officially tick off front end rust repairs, with the car now spun around in the workshop work on the boot floor can begin....
    29 points
  14. Air tank is in, with fittings connected and sealed. Wiring loom is pulled back through too.
    28 points
  15. It is legal! All wof'd and reg'd up. Excitement. Also made some progress on door cards. So close!
    28 points
  16. Time for an airbox to try stop the motor from inhaling 50,000 mozzies per hour. So started with a basic 2D profile. Found it hit where the bonnet rounds off a bit. Bought some play dough and smooshed it around the place to check clearance. Generally better than expected, have got 20-25mm to the closest brace part. So measured up the places I had to cut, then modelled V2.0 which is currently printing Once this is done, if it clears everything and there are no other issues. Then I need to decide how to divide it up into sections so I can still get inside to do up the bolts for the throttles. And then figure out what sort of air filter it's going to have, whether try jam a panel filter on it (probably makes sense given available space by radiator) or just transition to a round to jam a pod filter on there. Still a few iterations left to go until it will be a usable thing, but getting there. EDIT: Will be something like this
    27 points
  17. Had the compliance check done - small list of things to fix which is awesome, brake related mainly, rotors pads and currently not balanced right. One thing Im a bit nervous on is the seat belts, both front and rear have failed, rears are just 2 point lap belts but the front are 3 point ‘regular’ belts. They said they’re calling @cletus tomorrow to chat about the belts and book in a cert time for them. Can’t have a picture-less update so here’s two interior snaps
    27 points
  18. I got everything sorted for the cert. Got some new, real white wall tyres and a new, programmable brain for my electric fan, which has also been relocated to inside the radiator, so I could ditch the viscous fan. Here's how the engine bay currently looks, you can see the fan's new location at the bottom. I also got tyres for the Enkei Mosports, which look pretty slick. I've got some centre caps on the way and the height will be coming down another half inch to remove some of the increased guard gap that comes with the smaller rolling diameter. I'm also going to look into spacing the rears out, so they sit more flush with the body, until such time as I can get two of the wheels widened for the rear. Sailed through a warrant last week too, no issues.
    26 points
  19. Put the mezzanine in yesterday.. Perfect hidey hole. Still got 7.2m of room.
    26 points
  20. Got new brake hoses, tube nuts, brake pipe clips, some copper nickel pipe, made some hose brackets and joined toyota parts to plymouth ones
    25 points
  21. righto so i wasn't happy with the left side of the spoiler so i cut it off and made a new one. i was really happy with the fit and the shape so i went about finessing the thing to get it how i wanted it. i radiused the bottom corners and went about making it stronger, i welded a couple of bits of 1.6mm thick sheet all the way along the bottom edge to stop it flopping around then i set about making a good mounting for it. i ended up welding a bit of 3mm plate to it that bolts to the bottom of the intercooler bracket so its pretty strong. then i put another bit of 1.6mm sheet right across the lowest most forward point in the hope that when i inevitably crash it into something its got a bit of strength to it. then i put a coat of primer on it. and today i sanded it, put some bog on it and put some more primer on it. tomorrow ill wet sand it and put some colour on it and its finished. also this is the english wheel i bought. i wouldn't know a good english wheel from a fucking sandwich but this one worked for the thing i did and i was really happy with how well i was able to make the steel do what i wanted, so yea. 2021-10-20_07-24-20 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-24_03-00-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-24_03-00-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-24_03-01-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-10-24_03-00-55 by sheepers, on Flickr
    25 points
  22. Took this temporarily off the road to chase down an oil leak that was getting real bad. I presumed it was the front main seal, but after having the whole front of the motor off and then the sump, which had fuck off of the wrong sealant on it, concluded that this was likley the issue. Did all the usual servicing with the front taken apart. While I was in there I discovered the cambelt crank pulley was fucked, it was worn on keyway and the key itself was worn, as it turned out approximately 18 degrees of timing innacuracy. I tried to buy a new pully only for it to come back nla, and nothing second hand turned up in the short amount of time I wanted to wait, so I took to repairing what I had. Machined off the rear belt guide flipped the pully so it drove on the fresh side and made a new belt guide. Also ground up a new key that drives on the full width of the pulley. Also discovered the *slightly* harder to swap rear two plugs just hadn't been swapped. 6 new iridium plugs went in to replace this garbage. I also got sick of the cobbled together exhuast that sounded shit so ordered up some new parts, coupled with a hand made in Japan titanium rear muffler from Fabril Laboratory (little alfa romeo and general Ti manufacturing shop) sounds great now and quiet at cruise. Tucked up nice and high and havnt heard a scrape yet. Got some stickers And today, wofd, regd, cleaned and polished ready for daily duties once again
    25 points
  23. Took ages to sand the hood back, about 14 120 discs to get it uniform, lol. Only had to apply filler around the nose where I repaired, 2 wee dints and 2 repair patches and the crease that appeared when the wind caught it the other weekend in the gales and threw it onto the stand right after I welded the frame back in! shot it in leftover Isolack 2k, it’s bizarre shit..like bed liner to mix but comes out normally. The Second coat ejected some snot and fucked it up but at least it’s sealed in the meantime.. now I’ll just re-spray when I do the stripes down the track. The back of the scoop will be gloss black but I had a little spare so painted them as well as battery tray. Also scrubbed up the grills, have decided on the style I’ll paint them too.
    25 points
  24. Lockdown didn't quite provide all the spare time I was anticipating due to picking up a heap of essential work, but I have been ticking away at this thing. I've been wanting to get into the wiring so have been putting in a few hours here and there. Wiring is something Ive done alot of over the years so while I don't enjoy body wiring that much, I am looking forward to getting into the ecu side of things. The whole idea with the wiring is that the engine/ecu wiring is plug and play so if I ever wanted to go back to a stock engine/ecu (I wont) then it wouldn't be a total nightmare to do. I hope it means the car will retain its value better this way. Way back when I stripped the car for painting the front end wiring loom ended up stashed in a box which gathered dust, but I hauled that out and started pondering things. I wanted to make a few small changes to the factory front wiring like shifting the washer pump wiring from the factory location behind the passenger strut tower where it will melt due to the heat from the headers, over to the factory 85 location on the drivers side. I also wanted to take out the air con wiring, re-route where the loom runs and tidy up a few other things. So the loom got stripped back, I traced all the plugs so I've got notes on what goes where with wire colours, then got to work. I removed all the aircon wiring but kept the circuits intact with notes on what connects where so if I want to later down the track I can overlay that loom and plug it all back in. I laid in the new washer wiring but de-pinned, insulated and hid the original wiring so it can be uncovered and repinned later on if the washer ever goes back there. The drivers side wiring route usually runs through firewall into the wheel well then in through the inner guard, down across the inner fender to the head lights and along the front under the top radiator support, but I've changed this so its all hidden under the guard, runs under the headlight and along the lower radiator support so none of it is seen. The alternator wiring is now re-routed to enter the engine bay below the head light so its a short straight run along the chassis rail and is far less noticeable - its actually shorter wiring along with being neater. Wrapped it all in conduit and then taped up and clipped back in using as many factory fixing points as possible. A large number of hours later shortening and lengthening etc it looked like this. I quite like the fact that I know what all the plugs do, where the wires all run and that there isn't any un-used plug or circuits. Lots of time spent doing things that no one will ever see or care about And other than the short section of alternator wiring this is all you can obviously see - its not finished yet but you get the idea. While I was at it I took the dash out and hauled the dash wiring loom out for a once over too. There was only a few minor changes I wanted to make like reconfigure the wiper wiring so instead of running through the engine loom like factory its part of the dash loom instead - Its spliced in so a factory engine loom would still work if needed. Fixed a few broken speaker wires and sorted the stereo wiring too. After that it all got a once over with new wrapping and replaced the odd plastic clip and it went back in. Quite satisfying that everything is in the right place, clipped back into factory points and theres no random wires. While I was at it I ran another separate loom next to it from the ecu area over to the dash for the Link inputs/outputs I want to run including a canbus circuit for future proofing incase I run a dash in this thing. Dash all went back in and at least for now its all buttoned back up properly. Then with the looms all plugged back in and the battery temporarily connected I powered the car up and after replacing a few bulbs everything seems to work and the smoke didn't escape so that's a bonus! I'll give the interior a good clean once the ecu wiring is done as its dusty as shit but it looks like a car again. I'll update on the ecu side of things soon but stuff as been arriving so im hoping to get onto that sometime soon. Other than wiring I also got the EGT setup pretty well sorted - have welded the compression fittings onto the exhaust so that can go on for good soon too. Thats all till next time
    25 points
  25. I put the bike carbs back on and ran it up to the palmy swapmeet but on the way back it developed a strange misfire/stutter at constant throttle. I checked a few things before admitting defeat and putting the standard carb on again. I took it all apart and gave it a good clean with a diy ultra sonic cleaner but the stutter was ever present but not as bad? I didn't have time to investigate it too much as I had a roadtrip booked with it down to the west coast for a bike ride. I wanted to mount my bike on the roof for a couple reasons. It would free up all the space in the back, plus it meant I wouldn't have to worry about dragging all the mud and crap in. Using a tow bar bike rack is OK but meant I would have to take the bike and rack off everything I needed to get into the rear. I couldn't find anything suitable for the roof so I was determined to make my own. A visit to grandad one day and he casually mentions his old roof rack is in his shed at home and had been for 40 odd years. A quick look in the exact spot and what do you know. Grandad had this rack years ago on his mk1 zephyr. Under all the new paint, there's the zephyr green which he painted to match. Fitted it up to to van and it was perfect. I made new feet and gutter mounts out of old folder dividers from a file cabinet (not pictured) to mount it. The rack was too short to fit my bike in so I made a front bar out of an old rusty piece of angle iron and used some tubing from an old exercycle to make a dummy axle to mount the forks too. Perfect for the parts bin van. The 1,300km west coast trip went well. The roof rack survived, even when I forgot about the bikes and took a branch off. Luckily it was at low speed and the tree was mostly dead. I lost one alternator bolt, a second came loose, front left suspension has decided to start knocking, discovered a couple of leaks under the dash and with all our gear we were riding bump stops some of the way. Success.
    25 points
  26. Its all go. Have had front and rear factory bumpers rechromed at Shiny Bits in Geraldine, came up mint as. Have ordered and awaiting a Motorsport 3D dash from aussie to fit the Haltech IC7. Fits in the location of factory gauge cluster so makes it nice and tidy location to mount the dash. Retains the factory air vent etc. Toby has polished my BBS lips and all my stainless trim for the car. So its all straightened and wrapped up in bubble wrap ready for when the cars painted. BBS Centres need a repaint still but all the new hardware and repolished lips are looking tops.
    25 points
  27. Have had a heap of work on over the last couple of months, so really haven't managed to get much done on the car. That contract winds up soon though, and I might take a break from the side hustle work for a bit and focus on making some progress on this thing. I have managed to find a little time this week to continue on with cleaning up the rear end though. I've also spent time researching and purchasing heaps of parts I know I'm going to need down the line. Had quite a bit of FOMO about stuff going out of stock and becoming NLA, so I've now got pretty much every single exterior rubber trim piece sitting in the closet for when it gets painted in a couple of years time. Wasn't cheap, the local Mazda dealer loves me, hah. I've got everything planned and ordered for the new EM harness, it's the last major piece missing that would make it a runner. I've been waiting 2 months for connector bodies and pins though, and the tracking is stalled in China, so I'm losing a bit of hope there, might have to reorder. I've never had anything not show up from Aliexpress, but a couple of times its taken 6+ months :-(. I'll eventually run an aftermarket ECU in this thing (Have a Link Fury sitting on the shelf gathering dust), but I'll build the harness to mostly factory spec (although much better materials) with a couple of additions for WB02 integration, and anything else I think of. Then I'll just make up adaptor headers if I want to change to another ECU down the track. I've got an original S6 ECU to get it up and running on, and a Power FC there also, so lots of options. Gotta say, I've never seen overspray like this thing has. It's everywhere and bloody ridiculous. The vapor blaster at work has been getting a work out this week! This is what it the rear looked like originally. A lot of the overspray is clearcoat that has dust and shit all through it. Terrible grainy texture and makes everything look permanently dirty. After some attention in the blaster though, looks much more betterer. I dismantled all the wiring too, cleaned, blaster and rewrapped it. Looks factory fresh now. Also the the impact foam, as it was basically black with a reddish tinge. Looking much tidier, you know for something you'll never see. In with my latest order from Mazda were the rear bumper brackets that had rusted into oblivion. One day soon I'll reassemble that and get the bumper skin back on there. I've been in contact with Racing Beat about their twin tip muffler, as it's the only muffler I want on this thing, and they're currently out of stock of the center section (which I also need). They said to check back later in the year. It'll be spendy to get it over here, but ultimately worth it I think as I'll never have to worry about an exhaust again. I sourced a replacement rear spoiler for this, another stock S6 one as I really like them. The one that was on there was cracked, and had been glued on with some terrible bathroom caulking like shit. I had to smash it to remove it, as it was the only way I could think of without risking lots of damage to the boot lid. As it is, the paint on the boot lid suffered, so will get a super dodgy touch up in the meantime. While I had the trunk trim off I chucked some power on the rear wiper motor. It drew lots of current, and was really slow. Popped it out and the was like a ball of rust inside, super gunked up. Blew it totally apart, gave everything in there the big clean, reassembled and now it's like a new one :-). Ready for refitting. While I was in the mood for a couple of little jobs this week, I grabbed some plastic trim pieces from the engine bay. The air guide pieces that go around the headlights were just awful. Red overspray and trapped dirt, with all the rubber pieces attached to them brittle and cracked. Disassembled, cleaned up the plastics and painted them with CRC Black Zinc, as I find it adheres really well to PP plastic as long as you do light coats, and gives a nice OEM looking finish. I scanned the remains of the rubber pieces, cad'd templates and laser cut some new ones out of some rubber sheet of a similar thickness, then put them all back together after tuning up the speed nuts a little so they would grip again. Also ready for refitting. While satisfying, none of these little jobs do anything to get the thing closer to running or driving! Really need that order of connectors to show up! Might have to bite the bullet and reorder from another supplier. If these ones show up later, I can always make another harness and sell it I suppose. Will be back into hiatus on this for the next couple of months while I 100% finish up this contract, then make some more progress over the Christmas break I hope.
    25 points
  28. That evening Rigamortice and myself opened a bottle of 101 Wild Turkey in the new and improved sr2 man cave for a long awaited celebratory drink. Much later in the night with ‘Darkside Of The Moon’ cranking on the new man-cave sound system (Sub installed) we both experienced a religious epiphany and……….. saw God. To be more precise we saw the Great Spaghetti monster in the sky and the following day with fuzzy heads we joined…….. a religion! The day after the following day I had to get a medical and eye test to renew my class C license and took the opportunity to renew my picture while wearing my new religious head wear. (The “ever-lovely” Mrs sr2 has threatened to never travel overseas with me again if I ever do the same with my passport). Discussion thread…. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49843-sr2%E2%80%99s-1947-vauxhall-%E2%80%9Crigamortice%E2%80%9D-discussion-thread/
    24 points
  29. Poking with the torch revealed some crust in the pillar seam hidden by the roof framing so out came the welder again and brother put paid to it in a tidy fashion
    24 points
  30. Slower progress this week, My excuses are a nightmare window motor and regulator swap in the daily - complete with incorrect parts supplied, correct parts supplied that dont quite fit (never sort by cheapest!) and need swapping from the old bits, blood and much swearing And a stereo upgrade in a buddys new (to him) Nissan VanPa Beige Anonymity edition. New bearing and oil seals showed up, so regreased the passenger side, and managed to dint the seal on the new one, so thats just great. Still will be 100% better than the old drivers side bearing that had to be destructively removed and fell apart . yep, that would not have sounded good, and pretty sure it had been driven like that for a while - there were other wear on the other bits and the old seal on this side was noticeably ovalled. Dug out the bin of brake lines - 125/124/lada stuff that i have is pretty close to the 1100 stuff but had to swap the ferrules and make double flares for the ends that go into the brass distribution block that mounts on the diff Picked up this bad boy for pretty much nothing ages ago, an Oldforge, 7203, and proper Made in USA , and first time using it and i managed to squeeze out a perfect double flare. USA, A-OK! Diffs ready to go back under, I wire wheeled and degreased the sections where the diffs going to go, no new surprises and will come up mint with a sand blast, but for now Im gonna put some rust converter to just seal and pause it for now (and its mostly see through apart from where it goes black) and just concentrate on tidying the brackets that things get bolted to, so i can bolt cleaned up and painted things to cleaned and painted things. Finally found a sample that's close enough to use for a colour match. PPG Char Grey which is a bronwy/greeny grey.
    24 points
  31. I’ve bee-n doing some bee buying too. Finally Sacked up and had a go at eBay. Got a NOS hood bee (shaped to fit contours of nose of bonnet, mounts with pins) Got some 8in decals for in the tail stripe and that came with 2 smaller ones that go in the rear side windows. There’s also an auction for a stick-on one in Nz that I’ll put on the tail panel That should complete the super bee disguise! I love the R/T badge already on the bonnet but I probably ought to fully commit to a theme
    24 points
  32. Where were we? Ah yes, Rust.... Folded up a patch allowing me to warm up on the relatively simple rear guard. And so onto the main event, the boot floor. I have been thinking many hours how to do this panel, if not for the cobwebs in my wallet I would have just dropped a stack of coin on bead rollers and such and moved forth, instead I gave an idea a go and managed to fold up a test piece with the pan bender which impressed me enough to push forward with making the repair. Hold the breath and... Almost there, used some rivets to hold across the bends and tapped the end around a suitable shaped offcut of 4mm Not the tidiest up close, but it is rust free! Next step would be to launch into welding up but my gas bottle is near empty from other projects and there seems to be somewhat of an Argon shortage going on, hedging bets on making some calls Tuesday. Until then i've got some grot in the front guards that needs attention, folded up some more test pieces to confirm the process and dimensions
    23 points
  33. Yep, they will fill the back up nicely.. just need to get the tyres flipped
    23 points
  34. A few weeks later on old friend arrived on a transporter… …and settled into her new/old home…let the games begin!
    22 points
  35. After browsing a few online pics of cosmo/929/luce with rear 3-point belts, I went digging. Ended up being an easy / productive job - pulled out rear seat and parcel tray. Red interior an example off trademe
    22 points
  36. Stitched the last bit up tonight
    22 points
  37. Injectors are back in with new o-rings from MSEL and primed up without leaking. Sprayed the glovebox panel with vht wrinkle this afternoon. I need to find some space for all the wiring, each of the plug ins have like 1m excess loom attached.... @Barnz.NZ put me onto a single 14" ssr tomcat listed on Yahoo Auctions Japan which I managed to win this morning. Will be using it with the other I have to make a pair for the mark II with hopes of finding two more eventually
    22 points
  38. Made the most of the mint weather today and gave the engine bay and motor a wash, then tidied/wrapped some wiring on passengers side of bay. Need to do the other side still. Got my stainless headers fitted up too, so as soon as my hoist is free I can whip up the rest of the system. Getting keen now, nice to finally see the front end coming togethor.
    22 points
  39. No progress on anything but while I was doing some work today I came up with this little tune I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Keep going on about power to weight But I'm having second dinner by 20 to eight I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Dreaming of a time when my fast car flies While getting up to speed on a 6 pack of pies I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, Thinking in a race that I'm gonna come first But I fit my overalls like a sausage thats burst I'm a, fat man in a light weight car, Fat man in a light weight car, The only racing cup that I'll ever see Is a well supporting bra with a bust size C I'm a, fat man in a light weight car...
    22 points
  40. Onto one of the few remaining real jobs this weekend. Also I'm basically an upholsterer now. I found an outfit in chch to sell me this poos. I used the old one as a template, with the gaps where I did the roughest job cutting it to shape previously filled with tape to make it more accurate. The new one placed initially, with extra dome action. The new one with backing. The back floor templated with the help of some cardboard that I didn't take a pic of unfortunately. See how the truck is its own workbench? Fucking primo. And trimmed a bit, backing added and in place. I bought a shitload of domes from spotlight after I went there initially and drastically underestimated the number of them I would need. Fortunately they click up to the factory receptacles still left in the floor, although I added some extras for extra stay the fuck there you pvc piece of shit. I employed an amazing number of techniques to mark where the domes should be to fit to the studs that already existed, the best was red marker on the stud then mash the pvc into it. I still managed to blow it a bit here and there. The engine cover cover. Look at how much I cared, are you proud of me? I welded those seams with a fucked tube of plumbing cement that last got used 5 months ago, I'll get some proper pvc weld stuff tomorrow and make it a bit more secure. I'll also be able to add some edging then too, the glue means it might not fall off. I am quite pleased with the result, I like to think it will make a difference to the cabin noise. We will see during tomorrows outing. The next couple of days will be redoing the front bits as these are also rough and ragged where I simply didn't care when I fitted them. Thats all.
    21 points
  41. I have now spent a lot of money on parts cars. One manual v3000 was acquired for manual conversion parts as I'm sick of the auto playing games. And another is a turbo hardtop eterna thst is beyond rusty Work will continue soon
    21 points
  42. Wilwood brakes finally on, and polished up the wheels a bit. Bilsteins are in but as they are mostly hidden I didn't bother snapping a pic. Still waiting for composite monoleaf to arrive as they have been on backorder for months. Turns out the rear wheel bearings were already replaced in 2017 about 10,000kms ago and the bushings in the strut rods (rear lower control arms basically) are flogged so that's perhaps where the rear wheel play is coming from. Next up is to sort out the engine bay wiring mess, when one of the previous owners put in the crate engine they disconnected the coolant temp sensor, carb idle stop solenoid and ran a separate wire to the electric choke element as the original one seems to be problematic (when connected the Choke lamp on the dash remains on permanently). Originally I was thinking finding some aluminium heads, better carb (or maybe tuned port injection from a C4/Camaro) and headers but the more I think about it, and the fact that this vette is far from matching numbers original example and that I'm in the land of cheap LS engines I think I will LS1/2 swap it when a cheap truck engine turns up nearby. But doubt this will happen for years at the rate I'm going haha. Disco here -
    21 points
  43. Hacking up the manifold resulted in the removal of some water fittings and I needed to reinstate the removed cooling system components. I had a nice piece of aluminium under the workbench so decided to make a custom fitting. The lathe is a fairly new addition to the workshop, a couple of friends very kindly offered the use of workshop lathes however I decided that I had enough work to do to justify buying my own. Also I haven't used a lathe in many years and I knew that everything would take forever. I have never tried to make anything like this before but I think came out pretty well.
    21 points
  44. Annnnnnd Installed! Turns out, there is a kick panel in the footwells that I had completely ignored until I was all smug about finishing the door cards. Didn't take too much to get those done The Water pump pulley was on one hell of an angle which made Allan particularly nervous about loosing the belt mid drive. It was a good 10mm off. So he crafted up a couple of spacers to straighten that shit out and is now noice and aligned. (soz, no pics of actual wonkyness)
    20 points
  45. Dash painted matt black, originally did it satin but was too shiny still, so had to rub it back and redo, far better now. Car fully sound deadened, and have also made a new parcel tray
    20 points
  46. Not a super thrilling update, but I turned into a bit of a barry and decided to get all fussy with the details. I figured that since I like factory spec engine bays, and since my car is pretty close to stock standard, I'd go full circle and make the battery all og looking too. You can actually buy this style battery new from Mopar, but since my lotto win hasn't come quite yet, I've settled for the next best thing. I'll quickly detail how I disguised my battery to look old fashioned for anyone wanting to do the same (place I used does all different battery brands, quite neat). Anyway, I needed to make a "topper" to hide the modern style batteries handle etc etc, and it so happened I had some 3mm perspex laying around the shed. Once cut to size, I used a step drill to make holes for the battery posts to stick through (step drill gave the holes a nice looking chamfer to boot). A DA sander made quick work of the prep, some semi gloss black gave it that plastic look, and urethane was applied to stick it to the battery (but not too much, incase the battery needs to be replaced). Finally, my kit arrived. On it goes, a very satisfying job indeed. For the decal on the side, I decided that I should made a perspex backing should the battery shit itself, I'd be able to pull it off and adhere to a new battery. Oh, and if anyone was concerned about battery ventilation, these newer batteries vent through the sides of the top lid, so my battery topper isn't blocking anything off/causes no damage etc Overall stoked. The car is booked in for its vin in a months time or so. If drag day is still a go this year, you bet I'll be there, vin going smoothly in all. I have heard so much about putting American cars through a vin, so it will be interesting to see how it all goes. Cheers for reading about how I put stickers on my battery I promise more exciting updates will come in due course
    19 points
  47. A quick jog south to St Arnoud this evening to increase my collection of boat anchors.
    19 points
  48. Have taken it on a few journeys down the marlborough sounds (those hills helped inspire the engine upgrade) drives nice for a old girl. got a good snap of it parked on the way to the mahau sound. some photos of the pipework the workshop have made for the intercooler and air intake. found a truck destined for scrap and stripped a lot of interior parts to tidy up the inside of mine, was pretty stoked it had pretty much everything that was broken on mine in good nick!
    19 points
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