Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 24/06/19 in all areas

  1. 46 points
    Well now.. its been a few weeks and time for an update. So far the Imp has been reliable and not let us down but it has also been true to its English form and left a few little puddles about. I'll talk about them soon. We took it on its first big road trip which was fun, although a bit noisy. I couldn't really cane it super fast on the hills because Kevin the cat had to come on the trip with us. It was a few days away to visit my parents so we cant just leave the kid at home... The car did the trip with no hassles and returned an OK 35mpg, not bad considering its geared quite low, has had heaps of sitting on the spot being tuned and due to the constant annoying flat spot right off idle I had to accelerate faster then I'd normally bother in average driving. It certainly hoons along very very well although it has an exhaust boom right around 60mph, which is around 4000rpm thereabouts. It became a bit too tiresome however should be better now I have added a load of sound insulation on the back parcel shelf. I am super impressed with the Datsun A12 engine!! Its really peppy and fun, very smooth (allowing for the annoying carb issues) and just works so well. I can totally see why they have such a cult following around the world. Everyone who chats to us about the car (and its ALOT of people.. its a right little magnet this car) think that the Datsun conversion makes so much sense. More often than not folk are full of praise for the Imps they knew, had, learned to drive in etc , except for the standard Imp engines reliability. This is a shame because I think the standard Imp engines are great however one must accept that they do need to be cared for a bit more than many owners obviously could be bothered. But the Datsun engine- first comments are usually " what a great swap- those are bomb proof engines " usually followed with the comment "it must be hard to get those engines now because all the ministock racers have got them all"... So anyway.. the wee Imp ran well and got us to Blenheim and back. But before that big trip I wanted to sort a few things. One job was to build a cold air fed filter box and carb lid to let the engine suck on some cooler air rather then the super hot air floating about in the top of the engine bay, due to Imps not having the luxury of lots of cold air running through over the engine. So I built a filter box, sized to take a modern Honda filter. I have made the box large enough to handle bigger pipes and the volume that might be needed when I plan to upgrade the induction. Box... With filter in place... This box fitted under the parcel shelf above the gearbox. Sort of out of the way and hidden but easy enough to get to. It was fed with a flexy alloy pipe from under the car. Another section of pipe headed backwards to a plenum/tophat thinggee I made for the carb... It was all going so well I thought. I splashed some black paint on it all so it looked a bit neater... Then I fitted the tophat to the carb. This is where things went a bit... tight. It seems that I had completely forgotten to measure how much room I had just above in front of the carb. Not enough it turns out .... The engine lid wasn't able to go back in place! A few choice words that somewhat rymmed with duck and hit along with a sentence that sounded quite similar to 'well you stupid punt' were uttered. I then calmed down, realised that at least I have now got a filter box sorted for future upgrades and with that I removed the lot and refitted the previous air filter I made. At least its winter so a bit of hot air cant hurt I did another couple of jobs before the trip. I swapped out the fuel gauge which wasn't reading correctly for a spare unit I had.. I was also fed up with trying to adjust the clutch. The slave cylinder fitted had a 7/8" (22mm) bore and being pushed by the standard Imp 5/8" (16mm) master cylinder, which happens to be the same size as what the Datsuns use. However- Datsuns use a smaller 17mm slave to get the correct amount of stroke at the slave. I wasn't getting enough stroke so the clutch pedal and release fork clearences had to be set very tight to clear the gears. But I did have a very light pedal... So I worked out that the amount of stroke available from the Imp pedal, whilst being very close to that on a Datsun, was not quite enough I could get a good working system with a slave of around 3/4" (19mm). However- there didnt seem to be any slaves available out there that had the same mounting lugs, in 3/4" bore, with a metric fine hose thread. But I did have some spare random 3/4" seals, some stainless bar for a new piston and a big lump of alloy. So I made a new slave cylinder to suit. I could have sleeved the existing one down and I have a 3/4" reamer to help but I wanted to keep that one intact in case it all went pear shaped. Plus...its more fun making things ! I offset machined the lump of alloy down in the 4 jaw, bored and reamed it to suit, milled the shape up and machined a new piston to suit. But I was having too much fun and forgot to take many photos.. New next to old... It works heaps better! I can now have a bit of slack at the pedal and at the release bearing and still get my gears. Another job was to take the carb apart for the 14th time. I'm getting very quick at this and can field strip a Hitachi 306 carb in under 15 seconds, blindfolded, with both hands tied behind my back, whilst under water breathing through a straw. The carb had a few leaks. I realised that the top lid was pulled out of shape... I carefully filed it and the body flat, cleaned it out again for the 10th time and made a new thicker gasket to suit... On the next test drive the leaks had gone but I had still had not cured the flat spot. So I gave up and made a parcel shelf instead. I did have an original Imp one but it was a bit wobbly and a pain to fit. I made a new wooden one for the passenger side so now actually had somewhere to sit our phones, wallets, bag of Werthers originals, old parking tickets, a broken pen, out of date fuel vouchers and, most importantly, a screwdriver for constantly tweaking the carb settings. Again, so much fun but no photos. I finished the shelf the morning we set to leave. We plonked Kevin the cat into the car and set off. A lovely trip was had with the only downer being that the cold I had caught at fire brigade practice a few days before was really kicking in to full runny nose time, while the weather was a bit... Wintery. Got to test the wipers out though (must fit intermittant control kit I have) On the way over to Blenheim. You can spot Kevin. I took my Dad out for a hoon in the car. He loved it and only complained about the wipers being in the way of his view. Not a car fault but more down to the fact he must only be about 4'5" tall now... Back home and more recently things have happened. I weighed the car at the local tip... 750kg. The guy said the scales are within 10kg. So its in the ballpark for what I was guessing. A bit heavier then a standard Imp to be expected with a heavier engine, seats, exhaust, radiator and associated cowling, water pipes etc. But still light enough I think standard Imps are around 700KG ? More recently- one of the output shafts on the box leaks. I think it might be the shaft moving out just a touch too much on certain corners and the seal running off the land its meant to seal on. Or the seal land on the shaft is too worn. Or the new seal I had fitted has moved. The car will soon go on the hoist and I'll have a look. Cant really drive it until I sort this. Expensive stuff this oil- even more expensive if its loss means a buggered transmission. In other news I have made a parcel shelf for the drivers side. Now I can stash all my own crap within easy reach .. I am going to make some speaker boxes to mount under the shelves alongside a headunit. At a later date when I can afford to do so I'll fit an Amp and sub. I do like my music and there is only so much of Datsun A12 at 4000 RPM booming I can cope with so I need to drown it out. That is about all for now. Wish me luck with my seals...
  2. 35 points
    Car passed cert today - awaiting Cert plate. You beauty
  3. 33 points
    Outer mould patterns finished and ready for printing. 3D printing is good but it also means to have to design the under side! Twice as much work!
  4. 29 points
    Given its been 10 years since the last update I figured I would add another one. The initial inability to use the original plates has been overcome and after a succession of emails back and forth to Tania Taite and reuseofplates@nzta.govt.nz, I have been given the all clear to reuse its 1963 issued plates. Interestingly, in none of my correspondence with the NZTA was there any mention of a Gloria (as the car is a Prince and the registration papers simply say Prince Saloon) however she came back to me saying it was registered as a Gloria at some point, only one of my documents mentions Gloria so I knew the mistake existed but it also means that despite this being deregd since before digitization, they obviously do have records of it (even though previously I had been told there was nothing and the only chance of getting the plates would be personalisation). Interdasting. Anyway. I also bought this for it (thanks to @RUNAMUCK and @vivaspeed) Stay tuned ten years down the track for the next update. Disco link because it's been ten years and it was broken
  5. 28 points
    Got some very useful bits. The roof is a life saver, the glass is cracked but I knew that already. Also got a front lower section, rear lower section, the top front and rear which is supposed to be one piece but that bit has been cut in half and missing big parts. It was going to be lengthened and put on a ladder chassis but that project didn't go ahead. I mainly need the roof and the bonnet. But the other parts can be used as a mold to fix my front section. Also got a new bonnet and rear engine cover. Looks like the vw engine type cover.
  6. 26 points
    so @Mrs 64valiant sent me more photos to use in the post above so here are some of us putting the upholstery in. me sitting at our table beth laying on the bed for scale me, beth & boobs now on the bed. we went to raglan and had fush and chups for our 1st meal in the kombi. ft potato cam and me looking out onto the raglan harbor yeah cool story bro. I plan on taking a week and a weekend off for my 30th and driving it around the north of the north island so the goal is legal and 85% of its problems sorted by then.
  7. 23 points
    So I have the crank ground and ready to go. So I got started on the Align hone. This block didn't necessary need align honing It was within book spec in the mains. I haven't fitted aftermarket studs which is another reason for a tunnel hone, the studs normally tighten the tunnel up due to the extra torque you can apply to the stud giving better clamping load. Another reason is if you have run the main bearings this can also put the tunnel out of round and or put a bend through the tunnel. Here's a picture of the cap dresser. I used this to resize the rods earlier on. This is the main cap in it. It ground about 3 thou off each cap. First picture is the cap ground and ready to be torque up back onto the block. The next picture is with the block in the Sunnen Align hone. Sunnen is one of the industry leaders in honing. Our block hone is also a Sunnen Cv 616. So I just refitted the main bearings to check clearance. I've got 2 thou vertical oil clearance in the tunnel. Its nice and straight now. This isn't something we do to every block as some don't need any attention. But most old blocks either weren't that great from the start or have had a hard life.
  8. 20 points
    Found myself a new project. Car was last on the road in 1993, then the registration went dead but the rego is still in the system. Previous owner bought the car around '98 with plans of putting a 302 into it. A few years later he took the car to a panelbeater to get some rust fixed and bodywork done. The bill came back a lot more then expected so the car got mothballed to a hay shed. A mk4 zodiac came up a few years later that had already had a certified V8 conversion so he snapped that up and the mk3 stayed in the shed. The car only had minor rust (guards, doors, boot etc) to begin with, there was no damage to the chassis or sills. A bit of minor rust has come back since then, but a sweet barn find. The car was in Methven and had a heap of spares with it. It was pretty heavy towing back. It came with the engine pulled apart and a heap of heads, manifolds and bits. The guy that sold it to me knows someone with a mk2 motor that ran when pulled out, so I will snap that up. Long term plans for it once revinned will be some slam, wide steels and eventually an engine swap to a V8 or a barra. Am I best to get a repair certifier to come and look at it so I can get the rust signed off before I strip it back and paint? I'm thinking that might be easier while everything is pulled apart rather than taking through revin in primer, then pulling everything back apart to paint. Any ideas on how hard this would be and cost? Discuss here:
  9. 20 points
    so yea. legal as. and now that is legal again it time to start doing all the illegal mods to it that i want to do. first up was installing an adjustable brake bias valve because i wasnt happy with how the brakes were before and im going to be putting a disk brake diff in it soon and ill need it for that. second was installing a smaller steering wheel. 2019-07-06_05-04-31 by sheepers, on Flickr then it was time to lower the front a bit because i wasn't happy with how it looked so the front springs got a mikita haircut. now its sitting much better. 2019-07-06_05-04-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-07-06_05-04-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-07-06_05-04-58 by sheepers, on Fl next will be painting the hood lining i think. its a fucked grey/mostly stained colour now so i think ill dye it black.
  10. 20 points
    September will be two years since I've driven this car... So I've decided that I should get it going and try to race it at the final round of the Manfeild winter series. I've not done a whole lot since 2017 due to general slackness, but have cleaned up a bunch of welds around the tubs. This was about a year ago: Fast forward to this week and I've started doing things again. More weld removal, a few holes welded up, paint removal etc. A bit of filler and the first coat of etch this evening to see how it looks: The underside is still a bit wrinkly, but it's good enough for an inner arch. Now to get the other side. to this level.. I always forget how long it takes to sand filler! It's a pretty painful job . Once both sides are in primer I can give the rest of the bay a good clean up, sand and start thinking about paint.
  11. 19 points
    Ended up going with signal orange 79. It's an original color for an escort, but not this van. Sampled a blue and a different signal 77 orange but settled on this. Have been spraying it in sections. Engine bay, interior and inside of the doors. Still a while to go before I can spray the outside but its certainly progress!
  12. 19 points
    so we had a few problems. the engine in wasn't a straight in job. 1st we had the wrong thrust bearing, so back to the vw shop sorted out that the other one didnt go over the cone. rather annoying. now we can chuck the engine in. hold up why isnt this sliding on the last 5-10mm!!! ahh right back to the vw shop grab another clutch set up. at this point this is far more annoying than the wrong thrust bearing. so my kombi is one of those cars that is a silly year of cross over. nice ah even better this one doesnt have a clutch alignment tool, some tape on something that came off a sewing machine later and wabam tadaaaaaa on. this thing slid in with no issues at all now Now that thats in i had to make a few more little things work so we could make it run. Fuel, spark & something to make the batter keep charging while running it. had that all done and then we moved it a few times now that its running i wanted to bleed all the breaks now that we have vacuum on the booster as well. Well fuck me, tried bleeding it several time and having no luck, @flyingbrick was been a huge douche and a smart ass and trying to troll ( i ended up offering him to fuck off or ill punch him in the face ) he chose neither surprise surprise. out some the cylinder and i dropped it off for Paul to have a look at. He tried to bleed it and shit was fucked so pulled it apart put new seals in it and again, back it went and we then bleed the system up. Perfect breaks are now working!!!!!! working that good they are staying on. FUCK Right. priced up some that would suite drop spindles and fell off my chair. so apart they came. top one in this photo is cleaned new seals and pistons and in she went. and then we had breaks that were still staying on. this time due to this little spring missing and the piston not fully returning. and this one is still wrong but i modified it to work. left and drive bus problem in a right hand drive world. any who i needed to put the number plate on it so thought id drill the hole out for that. lol ill just tap that bog out shull i number plate on and i also put the headlights in as well as put the surrounds on the front. holly shit the headlights work. wonder if they tail lights work shit even the number plate light does. now lets put some upholstery back in it. door cards 1st. Underlay in before them to deaden the sound and cold factor Before after and now the door card now the wooden floor. it was resting up on a seat mount. so yeah fixed that issue rough and ready drill holes around and then jump on it. FIXED! (ps i don't care i have a kombi and i wanted it driving and carpet in it fast. i didnt want to try fuck a spider) also this ply was already cut and came with the kombi from purchase. at this point i wonder what i have under the bench for carpet turns out i have some black carpet at this point @Mrs 64valiant turned up and we put the rest of the upholstery in the back she had buggered off by this time of me sitting here having a drink to myself just been so chuffed that i was finally sitting in the back of our own kombi, Life clocked the next day i was going to @mark105 place to have a few drinks and probably not be able to drive home..... Beth was also not going to be in town, so guess what. well i had this small cut out where the spare wheel goes for my bed and well that was going to be uncomfy so lucky i know a guy who does upholstery right? found a peace of foam i had laying around and cut it to shape hey presto proceeded to a party were i slept well even more happy. so at this stage i had been driving around and this was my key haha not dodgy at all. even had a guy at the bakery see me use and said "you fully stole that didn't you" my exhaust also was pumping straight into my back bumper and was getting a bit black, so i needed to make a tip for it, i was hoping super cheap had them but yeah i dont think the love heart one was going to work. so i had this pipe i got from @Fuckedifiknow cut it a bit more and welded it and then put a nice taper on it. cleaned it up welded it on same day i done my roof racks in the 2nd half of the pop top. started with a walk over to bunnings to grab some timber slats walked back with a pool fence and some door stops? the door stops are to hold it off the roof and act as spacers. the pool fence? squash the ends this is going to work so well man this is brilliant while that was off i also changed the shitty screw holes to riv nuts lets see what else have i done lights work really well i got hub caps I had to steel this ignition out of this kombi and then u put the key part mechanism in mine as i broke mine to 100 peaces and then put a key in mine i actually needed the key part to see what barrel i needed for the wiring, one it plastic and one is steel. the one i needed was plastic. replaced the lock and handle in the sliding door as i didn't have a key and it was a prick to lock from the inside have been driving it and testing it which has been really good, beth is actually sitting in the bus in this photo also dropped off the old bus yeah. I went to drive it to work been a Friday and the battery is dead flat?! so it has something draining the battery which is great. and that is my story for now. Peace dudes & dudettes
  13. 18 points
    its also half chassised with 15 by 15 under it and a 383 big block
  14. 18 points
    Been quite busy working on this at the moment. Dropped it off to Pitstop Kapiti to get the exhaust sorted as it had a pretty nice split in th exhaust plus I had the rear section replaced and also extended Then it went to Kapiti Signs to get rebranded with my company details on it which is subtle and has come up really well! All the original decking timber had been removed ages ago and with the new Vitex we cleaned it all up, trimmed the two outside pieces down by 10mm per side and we were away! We oiled the wood first and man it came up well! 144 holes drilled, counter sunk, and fittings later... very tired hands. Also did some work on my BBQ trailer while I was at it. I had a sheet of Acacia left over from out showroom shelves from my day to day job so I cut that up, oiled it and added it to the trailer. Wouldn’t expect it to last long but time will tell. Looks nice and tidy and will look good behind the Ute as I tow it to functions. It’s a converted JetSki trailer. Ute is attempting to get a WOF today. I’m hopeful though as I’ve done heaps of work on this recently and it’s current WOF only expired last weekend. Matt
  15. 17 points
    vip rear window .out getting some sun.covers for gas sturts for boot
  16. 17 points
    So assembled the short block to check piston heights. Normally old engines have heaps of piston to head clearance. I found the pistons are below the deck surface 20 thou or half a mm. My head gasket 52 thou thick. So ideally i won't the piston above the deck 10 thou to get my 40 thou piston to head clearance for good squish. So it was back to the surface grinder to remove 30 thou. While i was there i sat the block in the surface grinder on it's deck surface and run a dti through the main tunnel to check how true the tunnel is to the deck and i was surprised to find it was within 1.5 thou. I haven't put a pic of it being surfaced as there's already one earlier on. So I gave it a wash. I went through all the galleries with gallery brushes. Then put it in our Bupi wash. This is pretty much just a big dish washer. Made in Germany and it's one of the more handy things in the workshop. Then we just give them a good going over with soapy water. Normally just dish washing liquid and hot water to brake down any left over honing oil. And really get all the machining swarf out of the oil galleries and other spots in the block.
  17. 16 points
    Why are the starlet itb's in this thread? Because the the inlet manifold on the hilux sucks. Not power wise, it seems to work good. but it vibrates, cracks and the big plenum doesn't work with what im trying to do. stalls out easy and any kind of cam setup other than factory, even cam timing changes on stock cams makes it a whole lot worse. wont idle on all cylinders and stalls real easy. not ideal for 4wding itb's will solve the big plenum issue, also will be able to isolate the plenum from the engine with some short silicone joiners. to solve any vibration issues. So had those bellmouths in above picture from another project, recycling; extended them by welding some thick wall tube onto the bottom machined a taper into them to suit the 52mm throttles and slightly adjusted the bellmouth so has bit more of an elliptical shape. machined some of the excess off them. could have taken whole lot more off but was over it by this stage. will probably test them on the starlet before welding them into plenum
  18. 16 points
    its had the b pillars moved back and made into a two door .dash has been changed too
  19. 16 points
    Sunday of productivity. Water pump back on, filled & warmed up. No leaky, no squeaky. Messed about with the front brakes but couldn't work out a way of fitting the new calipers without it turning into a fearsome bodge. I'll take the calipers & current flexies into the workshop tomorrow & make up some hard lines and brackets. Rear brakes went well though. Offered the shoes up and they looked good enough for a country job Everything fitted perfectly so I can confirm that 1971 Datsun 510 rear brakes are the the same as Hakos. Do with that information what you will.... Also done a vid. Really to demostrate the tappet rattle for comparison after I've adjusted them but it sounds like the cam's not bolted in. It's really not that bad. So that's about it, hopefully full braking will be restored by the end of tomorrow and then I might even give it a clean. Once I've adjusted the valves I'll give it the beans, I've been staying below 4 grand (mostly) because of the water pump but it really feels like it wants to pick up between 4 and 4,500. Thank you for your continuing interest.
  20. 16 points
    Ramble #3: Since forever, I've always had this exhaust manifold on which is a copy of the HKS 4-2-1. Altezza manifolds sit super bloody low when swapped into different cars, so fitting the likes of the beautiful TRD pipes is problematic. With the HKS pipes, the 4-2 section finishes right down by the firewall, which meant I (by which I mean someone competent, Denham) could cut the 2-1 pipes and reangle them to suit. I've always wanted to see how a 4-1 manifold would respond in comparison but I've always thought there's no chance of making them fit, and it would be difficult to modify. But since I'm currently redoing the engine mounts, I could tip the engine over to suit fitting factory Altezza options, and then I'd have more things to play with. So had a look around and I found a shitty looking second hand FGK 4-1 manifold. The FGK site says that over the factory manifold, dyno back to back swap to standard. It gains 7hp and more torque at a lower rpm. When I went and picked it up, I chortled at how bloody tiny it is! It's only 7kg and has really neat cast flanges which dont have any material where it doenst need to be. Ideal. The HKS 4-2-1 vs the FGK 4-1: The 4-1 isnt even as long as the 4-2 section on the HKS one haha. So I can have a nice transitioning bend to the under the car part, rather than my 2-1 section which has been chopped and angled about 10 degrees maybe, right by the flange. probably not ideal. The weight difference is massive though! I'm going to design my mounts etc so that I can fit both. So I can do some comparative nerding and see whats best. I'm thinking that perhaps with exhaust side VVTI now, some of the downsides of a 4-1 design (narrow high powerband) can be mitigated a little by moving the cam around. It will be interesting to see if any improvements to the powerband from the exhaust, happens because of better cylinder clearing of exhaust gas, or other mechanisms... If it's better clearing residual gas, and allowing more fresh air in, then I'll be able to quantify the differences in powerband from each simply by looking at which gives higher airflow numbers at full throttle, via the MAF sensor. I've never had any changes to the exhaust side while I've had this ECU so it'll be interesting to look at what changes. (or not)
  21. 16 points
    I took the car to the specialists where they rebuilt the power steering pump and rack (which was also leaking). This was not very cheap, but now the pump leak will not damage any more suspension bushes and the rack leak won't risk me failing WOFs. The specialist told me that some of my whines and clunks were the auto transmission (ZF 4HP22), which had good fluid so wouldn't improve without money being thrown at it. One of my rattles was the clips on the airbox - some idiot had taken the front cover of the airbox off for extra induction noise and hadn't figured that the resulting loose cover clips would rattle at certain engine rpm. Another rattle is either the engine fan clutch or the water pump, so I'll look into that myself at some point. I got new bushes for the front sway bar drop links. Here are the old bodged ones which are too thin and too large in diameter: And here are the new ones which don't really look any better! Oh well. Apparently you can get spherical bearings to replace these bushes if you're hardcore, but I think I'll pass. Anyway, the Jag specialists got someone to do my wheel alignment after they'd rebuilt the steering rack. This resulted in improved steering self centring, but the feeling of square wheels at 40kph and the vibration at 80kph did not go away. So I started looking at replacements for the Linglong directional tyres which were on my car when I got it. Other than more Linglongs, the only other tyres available in the right size are reproduction retro hotrod stuff - BF Goodrich Radial T/A, Cooper Cobra Radial G/T, Hercules H/P 4000, Galaxy Radial G/T... all tyres that OS report as being a bit average ("harder than a whore's heart"). I looked at going to wrong-sized tyres on the stock 15-inch mags, but this doesn't expand the tyre selection much. Jags of this era have a bolt pattern of 5x4.75" / 5x120.65, which is what a lot of old GM cars used. This means most aftermarket wheel choices are stuff like Cragar SS / Torq Thrusts which look wrong and/or only come in small diameters. But then some 17-inch "Performance" brand wheels came up on TradeMe, so I grabbed them. The seller had taken them off his old Jag to upgrade to 18s, so I knew they were gonna fit my car. Surprisingly, I could buy wheel nuts off the shelf at Repco with the right imperial 1/2" UNF thread pitch and tapered seats. I just threw the wheels straight on with no issues. I didn't have to take the dust caps off the front hubs to allow the wheels to fit as the seller said I might. I haven't even noticed the wheels rubbing so far. The fronts will be easier to clean than the original lattice design, even if the rears look a bit weird with no brake discs visible between the spokes. Dish photo! The improvements and compromises are all as you'd expect. The Potenza RE002 tyres on the new mags are obviously an improvement. Their lower profile doesn't magically give the XJ-S any steering feel though. I can't benchmark the lateral grip against other cars I've owned - when going around my 180-degree test curve, the Jag's speedometer reading decreases significantly for some British reason, only to increase once I straighten up again. Also, the vibration at 40kph may be gone but the one at 80 remains. Back to the drawing board.
  22. 15 points
    Used to have a 64, sold it to buy a house. Sold the house bought another house bought another Thunderbird because had more space. Has been chopped about 3 inches which makes some annoying but also some cool. Needs quite a bit of a tidy up but its had a disc brake conversion and a bunch of other coin spent by someone else which is cool. for yarns
  23. 14 points
    hi all con here thought i would share afew pics of my car ,its a 68 ve valiant . been working on it for five years .4 inch roof chop
  24. 14 points
    been doing the new inner guards the last few weeks,boots all lined with new tank as ell
  25. 14 points
    And the Ute and trailer are both legal Tegal! No issues, no dramas at all. I did put new tyres on the rear and raised the height of the Ute so that it would pass.
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+12:00