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  1. 37 points
    and all finished. im super stoked with how it all came out. the shape is really good and the passengers side wont need any bog i reckon, just some high build and it should come right. the drivers side needs a tiny bit of filler where a piece of the origional car is really badly fucked from previous welding. apart from that shes ready for paint. 2020-01-06_01-15-03 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-06_01-15-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-06_02-52-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-06_02-52-22 by sheepers, on Flickr
  2. 35 points
    motor in. pretty stoked tbh. its funny how quickly i forgot how little room there is around this thing when its back in the bay. also the bonnet fits. 2020-01-24_05-44-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-10 by sheepers, on Flickr
  3. 35 points
  4. 33 points
    Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.
  5. 32 points
    Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop going around in circles any more I stopped thinking about it and attacked the front with a cut off wheel and a hole saw Got some piping mocked up and the warm side, which was the side that looked like it was going to be difficult, is pretty easy using piping I cut up that was on the vg
  6. 28 points
  7. 28 points
    This is nearly working. Lots has been done since ^^
  8. 25 points
    re-made the drivers side patch. im way happier with it. i took heaps of measurements off the RA23 to try and get it as close to factory as i could. the only thing i couldn't get right was the hole for the bonnet stopper rubber thingo. i dont know how but when the top of the chassis rail was last mangled by senior Holt the bolt hole moved in by about 5-7mm. this meant that the center line of the bottom fold didn't go directly through the center of the bolt hole as it does (as best as i can measure it with simple tools, its within +/- 2mm i reckon) on the RA23. its not the end of the world by a long margin, its interesting that there is a difference between the two, could be manufacturing tolerances? who knows. anywho, all that meant is that the circular shaped rebate that the stopper bolts into is offset from the center of the fold a bit. TBH its pretty hard to tell the difference between the two celicas and once its got paint on it you might not be able to see it at all. whatevs, its close enough now that im happy with it. on to the other side then i can splash some paint around. 2020-01-02_05-49-23 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-02_05-49-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-02_05-49-03 by sheepers, on Flickr
  9. 24 points
    Finally got a chance to take this on a real drive. 50km round trip this morning, out to governors bay hotel for a coffee and some wedges and back through lyttleton and through the tunnel back towards home. The drive was awesome and the car performed beautifully. Only issue was the steering doesn't want to return to centre very well, probably just an alighnment needed but will check over the uni joints and the rack. Wasn't pushing it hard at all because it's very early days, but it seemed far far too easy to keep up with normal cars through the hills, I suspect it just eats the road up better than anything I've ever driven.
  10. 23 points
    sand, fill then prime again. i have the colour mixed for the top coat so ill be attempting to paint it red probably saturday. 2020-01-09_12-19-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-09_06-20-37 by sheepers, on Flickr
  11. 21 points
    been doing some wiring. i found it pretty hard to take a photo that showed what ive done so the pix are a bit shit really. just imagine i had no loom at all, then i did. its a whole new world having new plugs and looms to make everything. i learned a whole bunch making this and im really happy with how its come out. i now have the body interface to sort out which will be a cool process and ill be able to fix heaps of stuff. bit of fucking around and then i can put the motor back in the car. 2020-01-23_07-16-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-23_07-15-57 by sheepers, on Flickr
  12. 21 points
    Pre-WOF-Recheck shakedown complete. Goes hard g. Recheck on Saturday, and then I should be good for some less risky motoring. Will be good to be legal for British Car Day in Feb.
  13. 21 points
    today i welded passengers side in. came out super mint. 2020-01-05_03-32-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-04 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-23 by sheepers, on Flickr
  14. 20 points
    Aahhhhhhhhh eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa the sounds of stress of feeling like making no progress / too many things going on at once and being overwhelmed. I'm trying to put some effort into making the engine bay and wiring look tidy this time around. Its an extra layer of effort that makes things feel a lot harder. Like, there are 20 ways to do something functionally that works. Previously I'd take the path of most convenience and call it a day. But then trying to make it look good - It feels like you need to explore 10 of the options that look like shit to find 1 option that looks okay. Then you find an option that looks good but then it's impractical for working on, and you know you're gonna hate it later. Gotta find that balance. Anyway, after much deliberation I settled on a brand of lithium battery to get. Bought an EarthX unit for a few different reasons. It has a 2 year warranty where as others were only 6 months. Gives me a bit more confidence that they themselves are confident in the product. It also has a built in battery management thingy which will protect it from over/under voltage, short circuiting and a few other safety things. Since it's going back in the engine bay and I'm trying to make things look nice I've been scheming a battery box for it. So it's got a battery switch, a 100 amp fuse to run the alternator and general power circuit. Then was thinking about having a few fuses and relays in there for high current items that are close to the front of the car, like the radiator fan. But not sure on that one yet. Including battery, should be somewhere around 3kg when finished. Thinking a thin PETG printed box, so its non conductive. With an outer layer of CF for strength/heat protection/peace of mind. To go with this, trying to push all of my relays and fans to a single center mounted box. So bought one of the big sized bussmann boxes like so. Hoping to have it somewhere easy to access in the cabin, without looking obnoxious. Center console area is seeming like best choice at the minute. But it will be nice to tidy up random half empty fuse boxes and relays around the place. I bought a few kilometers of TXL wire in different gauges and colours so I've been making a new engine and body loom from scratch. It's a bit of work, but considerably easier than last time. Having all of the right tools and crimp terminals etc makes life a whole lot easier. I have learned heaps from my first time making a loom from scratch, some things I'd do differently next time for sure. I'd imagine it's considerably easier making an engine for a person that isnt obsessed with having sensors on every friggen thing. But it's been fun. Hopefully it all works without any major issues. The only problem I've had is with the Bosch e-throttle, the pins are so small and you only get 6 terminals to crimp, no spares... I overcrimped some so it pinched the wire off. So think I'll buy one with a pigtail loom and splice it on, as I'm not confident I'll be able to get 6 out of 6 on next try either if I just buy another unterminated plug. The fuel lines are easy to tidy up. As it's easy to reroute them to hide under other stuff. I wasnt happy with how heavy and yuck looking the existing fuel filter bracket is/was, which is a 2 piece metal crapola from an SW20 like so: Look at all of those wasteful 10s of grams of ugly metal bracket! Disgusting. So some internet research came up with this fella, which has a light bracket spot welded directly to the filter. God damn look at that minimalist efficiency. Scales say previously 497 grams vs 255 grams. That means another 1/4 kg of pies that I can eat. Excellent. I also impulse purchased a plenum and shaved down engine cover, because, reasons. The plenum is likely not much use on an NA setup but it was going for a steal and looked awesome. Made by Mike at MSPEC who is a maximum GC does some amazing work. To be honest I dont think I'll use any of it, apart from testing to see how it goes. But genuinely decently made parts for a beams engine are hard to come by, outside of exhaust manifolds and ITB adapters. So, hoarder reasons basically. Might sell it on after I've had a play around with it. No doubt there will be someone with a turbo setup who could give it a good home at some point. Also got Bosch e-throttle which is a nice unit. and Spartan 3 wideband with the LSU-ADV sensor. Looking forward to seeing how much difference the fast response sensor makes. Hopefully doesnt blow up either like 4.8s do. I think that sums up my "cant draw graphs with car because it doesnt go" existential crisis for now. Thanks for reading
  15. 19 points
    when i bought this it was a shell and i was missing heaps of parts but the shell was the starting point for me. i did buy some seats and door cards as well as the rectangle lights and a few grills (i like the look of then and the 1st ones to come along)from a mate but still needed lights and lots of other stuff..so i all ways thought that one day ill stumble across a parts car.. being a face lift 76 it has the same dash as the mk4/5 and i dint hate it but lately ive been thing about after market gauges and maybe subaru b4 seats front and back or maybe bucket seats in the back as well. then a mate rings me on Friday morning and tells me he will around soon with a trailer......and later that day i had a parts car...........oh what a parts car. its got everything that makes a GT a GT in it. so i stripped it out on Saturday and got a pile of GT goodness. the seats are pretty bad and will need an expert but they are all there. the only part i dont need is the steering wheel and i have no idea how much they go for so i put it on trademe at $1 reserve.. the body of the parts car is pretty bloody good and has live plates and tags..so the plan is to take all the stuff i want and put all the stuff i no longer have a need for back on and sell it on to someone whos after a project.....far to good to just cut up...theres rust in the rear panel and i think thats it. the big job is the dash steel back part....the face lift and pre facelift are totally different as you know so they need to be removed and welded back in ..in the other cars. so i have removed the facelift from my car today i will fully weld up all the areas with it out now and clean and POR15 what i can before i remove the other one from the parts car and weld it in. cheers
  16. 19 points
    its never fun finding bodgy repairs that you then have to fix. i knew there was trouble under the bog in these two corners, i just didn't know how bad it was. its bad. the usual story of shoddy half arsed work. smash the rust in, weld a massive plate over the top then bog the shit out of it. and, as usual, it would have been quicker to fix it properly in the first place than doing what was done. this was done by David Holt (the colour blind car painter i bought the car off) somewhere between 1990 and 1996ish. luckily for me David cant weld either because i was able to remove the patches with just a screwdriver and bare hands. again, as is typical for this type of butchery, once the "repair" is removed the actual original car isnt in that bad condition, it would have been easier just to fix it correctly the first time. so now that ive got all the garbage out of the way ill go about making new pieces and welding it all back together. 2019-12-28_01-36-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-36-56 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-03 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-27 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_05-23-37 by sheepers, on Flickr
  17. 18 points
  18. 18 points
    A couple more hours on the intake manifold side of this today, decided to tackle the cam trigger. I got hold of an old distributor from a carby one of these motors. It was missing pretty much everything, just a bare housing, shaft and advance weights still there. I attacked the shaft and housing with a hacksaw to get it down to just the bits I might need. I'm making this up as I go along, so I hope it works out ;-). What I'm trying to accomplish here is to mount a threaded hall sensor in such a way that it picks up a trigger signal once for every camshaft revolution. Ideally I'l love to mount something behind the cam wheel at the front, but there are no mounting points there, and although I could drill through into the head to make some, I'd enter a water gallery for sure and I don't like my chances of sealing that up afterwards. I thought about maybe picking up off the back of the cam via a custom mount that takes the place of the half moon seal, but there isn't a lot of room to work back there either. I also didn't like this idea in the end as the trigger disc would have to have a pretty small diameter, and as the trigger wheel you're reading gets smaller (so triggers are closer to the centerline of whatever is rotating) a small error in the point the trigger is detected can actually be a pretty large number of engine degrees. The dizzy rotates in line with the cam, so if I can make something tidy here, its about the best compromise I can think of. Looking at the cut apart dizzy, I liked the look of those four pads radially spaced around the housing, I figured I could clean it all up, drill and tap those for M4, and make a cap that attaches on and holds a threaded hall effect sensor. The shaft itself can then be tidied up, drilled and tapped for M6 to give a good mounting point for some sort of trigger wheel (with just one tooth :-). Some time on the lathe and drillpress later, as well as a quick 3dprint to prototype a cap (will either print the final one out of some material that can handle the jandle, or machine out out of aluminium), and I think it's going to work. Not as tidy a solution as I'd really like, and you need to be aware that if you ever remove and refit it, you'll need to reset the base timing most likely, but I think it'll work :-). The trigger disc can just be made out of a bent piece of steel, will make something tidy for it. There is a bit (I'd like more!) space to squeeze a coolant neck out next to it aswell.
  19. 17 points
    Making a start on the gearbox and transfer case. The gear box is called a LT95 and is a 4 speed manual box with integrated transfer case. What is cool about the early boxes is they used a Salisbury limited slip differential on all Suffix A vehicles (easy to spot spotted as they were all painted red). In addition to the LSD function in the centre diff, the centre differential could also be locked via a vacuum actuator. But only around 300 vehicles were delivered with this LSD and sadly mine isn't equipped with it. After the first pre production and first year vehicles (1969-1970) they moved away from the limited slip feature with the differential as the gearbox had a serious amount of whine and felt pretty agricultural and stiff. To stop this they removed the friction discs on the differential and replaced them with distance discs instead but still retained the Salisbury differential, only now not limited slip but still retains the locking centre differential. They also managed to retain the agricultural feeling and gearbox whine... Shot of the early friction disc. Shot of the later style with the distance discs. This bit freaks me out a bit so I have a friend Glen giving me a hand on it. It is not his first rodeo with these boxes so I am in good hands! Gearbox and transfer case are now broken down into bits for a check up. Overall it is pretty good apart from a toasted needle bearing, worn intermediate shaft in transfer case and a bit of play in the mainshaft. All the gears are in good condition which is great as they get expensive to replace. Most of the parts have now been plated and all new fasteners. Now waiting on seal and bearing kit as well as the main shaft from the UK. Looking forward to getting it back together and in the chassis. Calipers test fitted and looking great with that HPC coating. Now to fit the rest of the hard lines.
  20. 17 points
    Well, it has been an interesting time on the TVR front. Most recently, I have been dealing with one of those "why did I start this" jobs on the car. One of the first things I did after failing the WOF inspection was to order some new tyres. The old tyres, although both a good brand (Dunlop) and near new tread, were as hard as rocks, slippery as anything, starting to crack, the wrong size, and were flat-spotted. Its no surprise really, they were about 10 years old. The spare was even worse, I suspect it may have been from 1986, as its a long-obsolete model (Good Year Eagle NCT 60, the original spec tyre for the TVR), the rubber felt like plastic, and the date stamp was 196 without an arrow (the arrow indicates it's from the 90s, and a three-digit number indicates its pre-2000). They got their monies worth out of this one! After much deliberation, I decided to revert back to the standard size all around, at a "low profile" 205/60R14. The old rears were 215/65R14, so not only wider but also a lot taller (about 16mm taller than standard). This always looked a bit wrong to me; too much sidewall. I don't know if the reason for the size change was just because of what was on hand, or if there was a deliberate choice to do it, but Its not my thing. I did have some issue getting the original size; there wasn't a lot of options for brands, but I chose to go with a tyre that's a decent economy tyre. No, it's not as good as a performance tyre, but options were limited, as was my budget, and at the price I got these for it was hard to say no. A decent new economy tyre is better than any old, hard, performance tyre. The tyre I chose was a Nexen CP672. It has good reviews, is a modern Korean made tyre, and Nexen is OEM fit on some Hyundai and Kia cars, so it can't be all bad. At least it's not a Chinese ditch-finder. Hover car, again The Saab came in handy for taking it all down to the tyre shop for fitting. The Honda probably could've managed, but the Saab just ate it all up with space to spare. With the new tyres fitted, it was time to tackle the reason I failed the WOF. The front lower ball joints. It turns out these are the original 40 year old ball joints, as they are riveted to the arms. The replacements all have bolts holding them in. Not great news, they're a prick to get out. I struggled around a bit on the first one, but worked out some tips that made the second a lot quicker and easier. First, this job sucks. It's messy, it's hard to access, and takes more than your usual spanner set to do. The split pin in the nut was my first issue. It was old and properly rusted into the hole. After a lot of faffing about trying to hammer it out with a punch, and then trying to smash it up with a chisel, the easiest way for me to remove it wasn't to remove it at all, but to chop the tails off, slip a spanner on the nut and swing off it until the nut cut through the split pin. You can see the split pin remains still in the hole, about halfway down the thread. Both the nut, and the joint are junk, so not an issue. Now, if you have a ball joint splitter, go ahead and use it to split the ball joint, otherwise use the BFH and hit the knuckle with a few sharp hits, and the taper should pop. I found jacking the hub up helps to put pressure on the taper and make it easier to pop. You can see in the above photo I have removed the two bolts from the tie bar. This wasn't smart, it was a real pain to line it back up again, what I did on the second one was to use a clamp and hold the bar into place on the arm, and leaving the nut-less bolts in the holes to align it Next, undo the nut off the tie rod end and release the taper. Move the tie rod out of the way. Now for the fun part, grab your grinder, and grind the top of the rivets down so they are as low as possible, and flat. Use a punch to mark the center of the rivet, and using plenty of cutting oil, starting with a small drill bit, drill through the rivet. Work your way up to a larger bit. After a couple of different sizes I changed to a step drill. Take care not to enlarge the hole in the arm. The goal is to cut the head off the rivet, so you can get a chisel in and split the parts Once you do both of the rivets, push the ball joint through the arm and that's part one done. The new ones should come with a pair of nuts and bolts to replace the rivets, as well as a grease nipple. Fit the nipple, and pump the joint full of grease Now refit the new joint from the underside of the arm. Make sure everything lines up, and leave all the bolts loose until everything is aligned and in place. Once all the bolts are in, tighten them all up. The two large nuts want to be 58-68NM, whilst the little ones don't have a torque setting, so just do them up tight. Now for another fun part, getting the hub back onto the taper. I found this to be too much of an arm-full, so used a jack between the two arms to lift the upper arm and lower the knuckle over the stud. Not a Ford/TVR approved method, I'm sure, but it worked well. And then you refit the nut. The Nylock was a pain to fit as until it cut through the nylon it kept trying to spin the balljoint, but I got there in the end. There is a torque setting, but I couldn't get a torque wrench in there, so settled for bloody tight with a spanner. With both sides done, on went the wheels with new tyres, and it was time for a shakedown. The front end feels a bit tighter, but the biggest difference are the new tyres, which don't try and kill you when you point the car at a corner, and the rear shocks (new damper adjustable replacements also went in as I felt the old ones were a bit soft) control the rear end better. The incorrectly high (40psi) tyre pressure resulted in a nice light steering, but a harsher ride and less grip than when the pressure was lowered to the correct 24psi. I think this car has the heaviest steering of any car I have driven. I could help but take some photos. It's a great looking little car, and such an experience to drive. So, with new bits in, it was time for the WOF recheck. Almost 4 years since the last one expired, a new WOF! Its a great feeling, knowing the car is finally good enough that its back on the road, when for the last few years it had been sitting at a workshop being ignored because the injection work was just "too hard". Sadly the injection work is just the tip of the iceberg of issues with this car, but I'm working through them. I do wish the seller, or (more importantly) the "specialist" were honest about the condition of the car. Some of these issues aren't new, and are hard to miss. So with a new WOF, what's the first thing I do? Go out and enjoy the car right? Nah, that's not how I work. It was time to take the car off the road again, and fix the brakes. I knew this job was going to be bad, but little did I know how bad it was about to get. As I previously mentioned, the brakes had a shudder. This was also noted at the WOF, but wasn't enough to fail on, yet. Unfortunately, I had had enough of the shudder. It was bad when braking from 100kph, and annoying coming to a stop, so had to be fixed. I purchased a set of new rotors, front and rear, but just needed to fit them. I was originally going to start with the fronts, as they are a lot easier to access, but decided to do the hard ones first, and get it over and done with; the rears. Of course because I have inboard rear brakes, nothing was going to be simple. I asked around and the general opinion was that it was easiest to drop the whole rear diff to get the calipers off, so the rotors could be removed. Yay. Dropping the diff on a Wedge isn't too bad of a job, especially with the trailing arm models like mine, as there aren't a whole lot of things holding the assembly in. Unfortunately, we found the job was made much harder on my car thanks to whoever designed the exhaust, as there isn't quite enough space between the two exhaust pipes to slip the calipers down and out. After a heck of a lot of levering, and much help from my lovely apprentice, this happened I'll tell you now, this thing is bloody heavy. We lowered it on the jack, and removed it from the jack to work on it. I'm not too sure how we will get it back on the jack to refit it, lots of brute force I guess. With everything on the ground it was time to remove the calipers to extract the rotors. The handbrake calipers on the top need to go first. These are held in by two pins each. One side had nice (barely) greased and free pins, the other had dry, stuck, pins. Not ideal at all. They did come out in the end. The hand brake pads looked OK. I have receipts for them being replaced a few years ago. The units need a good clean though. Next, the calipers came off. These were missing the lock wire on the bolts. and then the old rotors You can see the extent of the runout in the wear on the rotor. Above the two arrows in rough and rusty, below them is shiny and smooth. The shiny spot is the high point, where the pads have been contacting well, and the rough part where the pads haven't been working as well. I gave the shims a quick wire brush to get the obvious crud off them, and fit the new rotors. Here is an action shot; brushing so quick my arm is nothing but a blur This is where it went all a little pear-shaped. I didn't check the runout on the new rotors before fitting the calipers, and when I did, it was worse than before I pulled the lot out. Previously on the old rotors, I had about 0.35mm runout. Now I had over 0.60mm runout. Crap. At this point, I flipped tables and gave up for the day. Well, they looked nice anyway. Mmm Brembo. Today I forced myself to go into the garage and see what I could work out. I knew the shims looked a bit average, so let's start there. I pulled the shims off and had a look at what I had. It wasn't good. The shims are stuffed. Rusted, crusty, painted and missing bits. And the flange didn't do much better. It had baked on crusty rust, and paint on it I had to chip a few bits like this off with a chisel, and then I wire brushed thoroughly I can still see some room for improvement there too, but its a lot better. The first way to see where the runout is, is to remove all the shims and see if the rotor runs true when mounted directly to the flange. After cleaning the flange, I fit the rotor to it and checked runout. The old rotor makes a great mount for the dial indicator Much better at 0.08mm. I think I can get it a little lower with some strategic scraping, but the spec is up to 0.10mm That's a great success. I did the same to the other side too. The shims were worse here, and the flanges covered in old crusty rust I cleaned these up and tested them. Boom, awesome. 0.035mm So the take away from this is a few things. I need new shims. DONT paint faces of flanges or shims. ALWAYS use copper grease on shims to stop them sticking together and reduce corrosion. Oh, and the bolts that hold the diff to the cradle should be tight; someone previously missed that memo. Now I need to source some new shims, and we should be good to refit. I measured the old ones, and will try to replicate the original stack, but I may need to tweak it myself as I don't know if these are right or not.
  21. 17 points
    CAD and CAM'd up the throttlebody flange, got into machining it, but the mill is half way through having its coolant changed, so doesn't have any in it... Thought I'd give it a go anyway, but the chunk of 6061 I nabbed to carve it out of seems gummier than I'm used to... The endmill is also a cheap chinese one, which might not be helping the situation, but it's chip-weld city, so had to leave off and will continue once I get some coolant in it next week when the rest of the workshop staff are back and can show me where it is, lol. Cut out a plate for the other end of the plenum though and tapped it into place. Got it sitting pretty flush after much back and forth on the belt sander. Gave both bit a quick vapor blast and cleaned them up with some IPA... Then buzzed it in. I haven't welded any aluminium in a couple of years, but it went well. The cast welds pretty nice. A little bit of crap bubbles out of it, but nothing that wont seal up. Was a welder I haven't used before also, and ESAB one. Seems like a bloody nice unit. On my old one you were fixed to 50Hz for the AC, but this one was adjustable. I cranked it up to 100Hz and it was nice and stable. Really want to get the throttlebody flange on there so I don't lose momentum, Things are progressing along pretty well at the moment :-). I reprinted the cam trigger housing in ABS, and printed a trigger wheel as well that locates on the 17mm stub of shaft sticking past the seal, as well as taking a small inserted piece of key-steel as a ferrous target. I'll wire it up and hook it to a drill, spin it up as fast as I can and see what it does. I'm hopeful I'll be able to just use the printed parts. Dunno if it'll hold up. Should be good for prototyping at any rate, and then easy to replicate in metal or something else stronger if I need to. Printed the cap with a little divot where it needs to be drilled and tapped for the sensor, but there will be a little bit of setup involved in getting it right, so I'll so that tomorrow when I'm a little fresher :-). Hopefully I can get the throttle body flange machined and welded on too! Then the last remaining bits will be getting the coil mount cut and folding it up, the water passages / plumbing, and a mount for the FPR. That will require a little bit of noodling to make it easy to mount and weld, but should be able to model something up so I can machine it and have it all sit in place nicely, hopefully.
  22. 15 points
    So, ages ago, I used to buy really shitty cheap cars for daily drivers. I would think "Well, I've got the skills to fix this 300,000km old shitter. So if something goes wrong I wont need to pay a mechanic!" Having this attitude skews the risk/reward equation (as I would later learn, unfavorably towards myself) when factoring in if a particular car is a good idea to buy or not. A major "aha" moment in my life, was where I realized that having additional skills can empower you but also lead you into unique sorts of traps too. I've missed so many weekends of my life where I could have been doing fun stuff, because knowing how to work on cars, meant I navigated my life into the situation where that's what I needed to do a lot. Like, isnt that strange? Instead of skills giving me extra options, they took away the option of doing anything else. Now, pausing to consider this idea for a moment. The skills trap is what is so fascinating about this project. In order to even consider taking this on, you obviously need to be incredibly talented beyond the level of most across a broad range of topics. But that's not enough, you also need to be confident and willing enough to be able to fix the potential issues, even ones you currently have no experience with. Yet, paradoxically, someone like this also has all of the requisite skills for assessing whether this is a good idea or not. Which, I would wager, most people, regardless of skill level, no offence, would say sight unseen purchasing an old TVR is "not". Not even the TVR Barrys sat on the required part of the skills matrix to get this car going. I applaud your efforts. WOF is an amazing milestone. If not for your efforts I doubt this car would have ever seen the road again.
  23. 15 points
    Well, the momentum got a little lost unfortunately, life got in the way for a wee bit. Managed to get a couple more things done though. One good step forward, but also a couple of annoying steps back. First, the backward steps; my modified dizzy cam trigger idea would work, but it really crowds the area where I need to build the thermostat housing. Not impossible, but just really annoying. Dad was around the other day and we were talking shit and he noticed a little nubbin sticking out of the factory cam... So I think I'll make something up to use that as the trigger tooth. A mount that uses the cam tower bolts. This means that I'll have wiring inside the rocker cover, which gives me pause for thought... But motorsport wiring is something I've got a lot of experience with, and I'm confident I can make it reliable :-). A GS1005 sensor, booted and potted, with DR25 sheathed M22759/32 wiring and It should stand the test of time. I'll make up a custom half-moon seal for the back of the head for the wiring to exit out of. The other step back was also trigger related. I've got a Link ECU for this, and it clearly says in their doc that the crank trigger wheel needs to have a number of teeth that divides into 360 with no remainder... Damn integer math! The SOHC balance shaft sprockets have 32 teeth, so that's not going to work :-(. This is a pretty easy fix really, I just need to machine up a replacement for the sprocket that has a number of teeth that divides in 360... I modeled up a replacement with 12 teeth and printed a test to make sure it would clear everything, its all good. I've shamelessly ripped this off from the kiggly racing trigger kit, but its like $400 to get one of those landed and I'm just not keen to open the wallet to that extent on this thing. I've gone with 12 teeth, dictated by the tooling I've got on hand to make the cuts, hah. Although now that I think of it, we've just had a new EDM wirecutter turn up at work, if I waited a few months I could do any number of teeth I want on that... Ahhh future me's problem. 12 tooth is a little coarser that I'd like with a 272 cam, but all it will mean is a little bit of timing jitter at idle. I'll tell myself it'll just make it lope a bit more at idle and I'll look cool at the lights. Yeah, sure. Right on to the win! I got the coil mount I designed up profile cut and bent it up, and golly gosh, it actually fits! There is something uniquely satisfying in seeing something you've only designed in CAD as a physical object in the real world. I need to get the right fasteners for it, and I think i'll paint it wrinkle black, as that's what the rocker cover will be (with polished lettering of course, because 80's). I'd love to get rid of the ECI-Multi on top of the inlet manifold, because the text is around the wrong way and it drives the OCD nuts, but I cant think of a tidy way to do it... Any ideas out there? I bent it up on a combination of a press-brake and a big finger folder. It needs mild persuasion to get the bolts in place, but really only half a mm or so, which I think is pretty decent for a 3mm sheet metal part with those angles. What I really should do is spend some time calibrating my fusion360 sheetmetal profiles to the tools I have available. Maybe next week? Probably not. I can start on the pattern for the wiring harness now the coils are mounted, that will be another great job to get ticked off. I'll be building it out of offcuts and what not, but will keep it nice and tidy, Fun times :-). Hope this post made sense, I'm 4 ciders deep and waiting for pizza for dinner. Hmmmmmmm Pizza.
  24. 15 points
    painted some things black. booster, hood stay, windscreen wiper motor housing and hood latch. just the normal shit really. now thats done i will probably start working on the new engine loom. ive got new plugs for everything and new link looms so the motor will get a full rewire. 2020-01-17_05-53-42 by sheepers, on Flickr
  25. 15 points
    I'm still firmly in the "hunting and gathering" phase of my Thames resto mod project. So the newer L300 is a definite fail if you are looking for a straight forward front suspension swap into something else, but having said that the forward facing steering rack and angle box look promising as an alternative to the archaic steering box setup on the Thames. Getting back to the front suspension it was pointed out to me by Cletus that the way to go is the older mid '80s L300 vans as they have the fully detachable front beam. So for the past few weeks I've been hunting for one of these older vans. Here in OZ there seem to be still a few of the 4 wheel drive older vans around, but the 2 wheel drive versions are pretty thin on the ground. I managed to eventually track down a 1984 Starwagon, only snag was it was located almost 600km away and was a non runner. Did a deal on the van for $250 and managed to snag a cheap return trip on an empty transporter that was coming back our way if I was happy to wait. Van arrived home earlier today. I chucked a battery in it, primed the carb and she started first go. Hasn't been run since 2017 so she is a bit smokey, but I don't plan on using the motor so I'm not too fussed. Shoved the van on my ramps and had a bit of a nosey around underneath. Initial measurements of the Starwagon mounting points are pretty close to the distance between the Thames chassis rails so looks like a relatively straight forward swap. I've now got my own private "pick a part" stash of 4 Japper vans when I eventually start the conversion. So the loose plan thus far is: Complete front suspension and brakes from a 1984 L300 Starwagon. Steering column, angle box and power steering rack from a 1996 L300 Express Toyota 4Y engine and 5 speed column shift gearbox, drive shaft and rear axle from a 1986 HiAce Picture of the mighty Starwagon for you to perv over. Thanks for reading.
  26. 15 points
    I needed to replace the speakers in a musical keyboard, so I thought I'd scavenge the factory rear speakers out of the Jag for this purpose and put some new ones in their place. Sounds straightforward. To take out the interior trim panels which hold the rear speakers, you have to take out the rear seat base, rear seat back and front seat belts. The lap section of the belt attaches to a rail which is bolted to the floor of the car, and the lower threads of its mounting bolt protrude below the car where they get all corroded. When you remove these bolts, they get destroyed and their nuts (welded to reinforced sections of the floor) get damaged. Then you're left with no seat belts. So then you have to drive around with no seat belt to visit speciality stores during business hours and buy some stupid imperial 7/16 UNF bolts and a stupid 7/16 UNF thread tap that you will never use again. Aaanyway, here is one of the factory rear speakers: They're mounted to an actual piece of plywood, rather than to flimsy door card like the front speakers. As with the fronts, though, the speakers are mounted on the rear of the panels via threaded rods which are welded to the speaker grilles. I measured the plywood panel dimensions and got the biggest suitable speakers which could be mounted from the rear without modifying the panel (most speakers don't provide a standoff ring to stop the edges of the cone contacting the panel). Here is a new speaker, a factory speaker and the factory grille: Then I recessed the mounting nuts for the speaker grilles and cut down their threaded rods as short as I could. This allowed me to slap the new speakers onto the back of the panel while keeping the factory speaker grilles in place. Result: It looks factory (good), and sounds factory (not so good) except a bit clearer. There's still not much bass and the sound starts to distort when the head unit is still quite far from its maximum volume. I probably won't try to improve things further though, because there's no ideal spot for amps / subs in an XJ-S. While I had those interior panels out of the car, I got a look at Jaguar's superb rust traps. Behind the rear speakers / below the rear side windows, there's a join where the bodywork meets the sill. Rather than installing drain holes in case water gets in, Jaguar just fitted lots of foam to absorb the water: This seems like it would promote rust, and indeed it does. My car's not too bad for rust just yet, which is why I was not prepared for this rust under the sound deadening below the rear seat base! Water must have been getting in and pooling at this join, helped by the foam stuff. I took a few handfuls of rust out, revealing some holes. However, the holes revealed that this seat framing is not the floor of the car - there's heat insulation below here to stop the passengers getting toasty bums from the inboard brakes and exhaust. I just hit it with rust killer / corrosion primer / fish oil and hid it away for another day, since it's very easy to access. Before putting the rear seats back in, I noticed they were made by the notorious Jack the Stapler:
  27. 15 points
    well i havnt build the new motor yet .....because i have other shit to play with.....but the old pinhoe has been getting worse......blows shit loads of smoke and sounds like a diesel... the mk3 parts car i bought had a mighty pinthoe in it... so i pulled it out pulled the clutch ,flywheel,pressure plate,inlet and carb , thermostat and water pump of mine and slapped it on to the other one.... reason being mine ran and i had done them last year. some new plugs and oil.....and man it starts first pop.....no smoke.....and so quiet . old pinthoe other old pinthoe blooody good
  28. 14 points
    So just before Xmas I got the old girl back from the panel shop. She's straight as and with very minimal filler. Decided to take her for a spin out to glenorcy after work. Really needs a 5/6speed.. Do any of you know some GCs that can make up a bell housing? I'd like to chuck in a mx5 or altezza 6 speed
  29. 14 points
    Long time no nothing. life and new born getting in the way but found some time over the break to sort some stuff out. Took this thing for a wof a while ago and the fella reckoned I had chopped "too much off". According to him and a few other people I talked to I need to have left at least 100mm of frame on after the shock mounts. So abit butt hurt i knew had some options, scrap the bike, part it out, or weld on new rear hoop and change set up. Seeing as ive given up on too many project in my past, option C is what I've gone for. Progress is as follows. Acquired rear hoop. Made inner tube pieces for support. Chopped hoop to preferred size. Welded it all together. Purchased fiberglass. Wrapped bike in glad wrap. Laid fiberglass. And here we are. I always wanted to try make my own seat so that's what I'm going to try do, from the pan to upholstery. I ran out of resin so will have to pick up more and do a couple more layers when I get round do it, I will most likely weld in a support peice at the back too. but for now I'm happy with were I've gotten.
  30. 14 points
    Asked my sister in law who works at Taneatua petrol station if she remembered 40ish small bikes pass through. She wasnt working that day but got told all about it. Much wtf from the locals
  31. 13 points
    Over the Christmas break I dropped this old girl out to Alex @yoeddynz, really stoked with his work, he rectified the holes that had been cut in my inner guards, blanked the stereo hole that had been butchered and added the floor shift tunnel I had cut from the courier. It was a long drive out to the Abel Tasman ringing its guts out trying to do 100kph so next on the list is putting the courier diff nugget in, fingers crossed it should be a 3.3 or 3.5 so should make a huge difference from 4.8 hopefully. Also the gearbox is really noisey so will swap that out at the same time.
  32. 13 points
    A guy on facebook was giving away some motors and parts, after finishing his project. Drove over to Greymouth to collect them. Now got 4 parts motors, so should hopefully have enough good bits when it comes to building a motor for it. Finished stripping the engine bay, removed suspension and cross member. I have made a start removing the underseal from the guards, only been finding some light surface rust so far. Will continue removing the undereseal and make a start bare metalling the engine bay next.
  33. 13 points
  34. 13 points
    Recently collected my latest project... A 1972 Toyota Crown MS75 Custom Coupe. One of just a few known to exist in the UK. Previous owner had it since 1979, sat since 1990. Aiming to make it useable, then make it mint at a later date. If anyone has contacts for parts it would be appreciated.
  35. 12 points
    2nd drive with the prototype deflectors. this time a reasonably sedate cruise into work through 50/60kmh zones. previously this would have been semi uncomfortable and left me with an unpleasant wind blast feeling in my ears that lingered. today it was awesome, no different than driving a normal car with the window open. ill definitely proceed to making some nicer more refined parts.
  36. 12 points
    Because everyone else has a CT110 CT50 and @UTERUS says they are good, I grabbed this low mileage example from Turners auctions. These have been going for stupid money lately, however when an auction ends on new years day and everyone is still too dusty to bid, some bargains are there to be had. It's blue due to ex contractor and has only just been run in at 103k. Rack box has since been removed and seems to go pretty well. A+
  37. 12 points
    I put this outrigger on. I think for certification I need to guard the belt drive? Then, I rolled it outside and it stood for the first time in its life on it's own. As a father of 3, I can say that this emotional experience far eclipsed watching my own kids takes their first steps. So close, yet so far away for starting it up.
  38. 12 points
    a wee while since the last Blizzshop update as i havent been up to too much other than work and painting the bloody house. Had great fun for a wee bit on the wee GP from above then promptly sold that on for some good coin. Have a new small bike project replacing it which i will put some info up about when i pick up the rest of the bits later this week. I have been getting over staring at one of my favorite bikes i own that is by far also the ugliest bike I own, so i have started de-uglyfying it. The grot rattle can canary yellow RD04 XRV750 Africa twin is yellow no more. previous photo for reference lawl So first up I stripped it down, paint stripped the Fuel tank, etch primed it and started bogging up some dents, still got some more work there to go. The only mechanical issue the bike had was being very hard to start from cold. When not used often these bikes have a notorious habit in which the choke plungers get jammed on (enriched). I dont know what happened to this one but one plunger was disconnected and some numpty had jizzed half a tube of RTV down the plunger hole to block it, after picking most of that out i found a partially drilled out and extraction attempt of a now mangled choke plunger. Unfortunately for me the idiot mangled the wall of the carb while drilling it out, so the carbs are now junk. $400 later i landed a new set from Austria. Fun fact, the rear carb runs a richer main jet than the front carb to compensate for the hotter running temps of the rear cylinder in the V formation, i wonder how potatoes get around this issue with only sucking from one carb, but then again they probably dont go fast enough to get airspeed to cool the front cylinder. Anyway, the replacement carb has slightly richer getting than my factory one (118/122 opposed to my one at 115/118) on doing research the richer jetting is stock for this model of bike. I will run it like that anyway as mine was a bit lean with the straight through muffler on it. so hopefully that all fixes the starting issue. Next on the agenda is to sort out the horrendous lack of side covers are i threw the even more horrendous checker plate in the trash. I borrowed some RD07 later model side panels but didnt like how they fit, especially once they will be painted white so am going to pick up some XPS foam and have a crack at making my own fibreglass plug / mould / glass side covers which will be a fun project as i haven't worked with glass before. i have a sweet little tail section on the way which will get rid of the big monstrosity thats on there are the moment and i also got some lush as frig but slightly damaged adventure spec soft cordura panniers for cheap. These are currently with @64valiant getting some repairs done, once thats sorted ill make up some racks to hand them from this thing. Plans at this stage is to finish this body work, repair the cracks in the front fairings and then paint it all white and get the lads a watermark to do some sweet rothmans livery. will re do the dash setup and make a few other small changes but wont dig too deep. once this is all done ill ride it for a year and then probs fully strip and powdercoat the frame and do all the bearings and shocks and stuff. oh also need to do a preventative mod to the fuel pump. These things have a small mitsi fuel pump to supply fuel when the level drops below carb level (about 1/4 tank) and the points are notorious for welding themselves together. There is a wee mod to add a diode into the pump which through electrical magic reduces this sparking and stops the pumps from clagging out all the time. Looking forward for some adventure times
  39. 12 points
    Got the old girl out to the december OS meet. Was great catching up and meeting new people thanks to cool cruising photography for these pics
  40. 12 points
    Nah it wasn't certed. It had heavy duty leaf springs fitted I find it hard to figure out why the company that did the work would have that attitude, surely they would have insurance, and the bad publicity would cost more than fixing the vehicle.
  41. 12 points
  42. 11 points
    Makes a mess but seems to be cutting alright. It's pretty inconsistent on the back side, I'd be surprised if it was actually in balance before.
  43. 11 points
    Ive been driving this a bunch and im really beginning to remember why i love old cars so much. it so much fun. except at above 75kmh.... then its a windswept hellscape. 100kmh and its borderline undrivable. there is such a huge amount of turbulent wind blast that i knew id have to do something. first port of call probably should have been to test drive it with the full doors on, but they are now burred in the back of my shed behind the crown. so i threw together some basic deflectors at work today, and figured if they showed promise then ill pretty them up, make them adjustable and removable ect. well turns out they work pretty bloody well. its still windy, but not unbearable, and i may be able to tune them better once i make them angle adjustable. after all its still an open top car with the flat windshield. another suggestion from someone at work has been to lift the screen up creating a gap at the bottom to hopefully equalize out the low pressure zone behind the window, i may give this a go, but will cause problems with fitting the roof. i think some form of ear protection may be a good idea as the wind rush can get quite loud, if anyone has any suggestions for something that can sheild my ears from the wind, but wont mean i cant hear surrounding traffic ect making it dangerous id love to see them. i tried some old ear phones but they blocked out too much surrounding noise for my liking. ive driven with a hoodie over my heat and its much better, but often not practical.
  44. 11 points
    Attendance was better than last month - we had two oldschool cars, plus a bike and a 'modern' S14 Silvia. =) Sparkly filter adds ALL of the sparkles!
  45. 11 points
  46. 11 points
    I had to turn the car around to do the other side so thought it was time to give it some sun.
  47. 11 points
  48. 11 points
    This is a job I've been putting off for a longtime. The pulleys didn't align correctly. Theres a 4.8mm difference between front and rear. Hmmm...yadda, yadda, yadda...something about using shims and a stator washer...yadda, yadda, yadda...blah, blah, blah. Instructions weren't a lot of use. What fucking shims? What fucking washers other than those already normally used on the motor??? Certainly would be helpful if they supplied these parts if you need them to make their kit work, one would think? But alas nothing like that came with it. However, as I've mentioned before; no problems just solutions... And test fitting after much time spent machining this up... Fuck yeah, like a glove!
  49. 11 points
    Super motivated to rebuild the motor over Christmas break except stupid me overlooked that machinists take Christmas off too! So I have just cleaned everything up and made measurements where I can. Gearbox has come up pretty good after 2l of kero, bearings flushed out and appears visually OK, syncro rings all measure up in the upper limit which is handy, i'm pretty certain now this box had a rebuild not long before the rust became too much. Just need two new seals and it can go back together. Oil pump is a little concerning, while it measures up in spec, it has considerable scouring, speaking with L series folk this is relatively normal and should still push around sufficient oil, have tabs on a spare if required. Last day of work the sidedraft manifold adapter blank arrived, i'm in two minds as to how to proceed, CNC the ports or just get in there with a die grinder - leaning to option 2 as i'd like to port match it in any case. As much as I want it done, going into work during holidays is not high on my want list. Had word Supercheap had some Datsuns on the shelf, couldn't resist a mini-me. Have given the electronic ignition a bench run and it seems to be playing nice, will get that polished and fit it to the car to see what improvements it offers.
  50. 10 points
    Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Tunnel trim completed and floorpan edge conforms nicely! Trimmed and fitted. Trim was three steps. First a rough cut with an angle grinder cutting disk to within 1/4 inch of the scribe line, then manual cut with tin snips the rest of the way, finishing with hand filing to clean and de-burr the edges. It's very tempting to just start welding it now. Just need to paint the underside and weld it in - finally! Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
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