Truenotch

Might turn up to this with an even less appropriate vehicle than usual.

I'd be interested in an afternoon/evening jaunt down that way.

Shouldn't be too hard to get it good enough for the next rodeo on Jan 23/24th. It can stay a bit rough and will finish it when I've got new doors to get the lines right.

Made a start on pulling the dents out. My shed neighbour let me borrow his porta power. Managed to get most of the shape back into the panel. The door will be replaced at some stage, so I'm not too worried about getting that straight, but will spend a bit of time getting the quarter panel as straight as possible with a hammer and dolly. After some initial kicks and chipping off bog (it's not a virgin panel, haha) Then after a poke with the porta power: It's got a few ripples! But already a big improvement.

Fill that bad boy with vinegar and let it marinade for a couple of weeks. It's the cheapest option for converting rust.

Only milk comes with a blue top. Dad's factory AE86 goes hard for what it is though. It's done ~150,000km and still has the factory air inlet over the radiator. It's no smallport, but it'll do.

Need to see the label on the back of the machine, but the time period for the duty cycle rating will be super short. Most welder duty cycles are based on 10 minute blocks. This machine will be something like "100% @ 232A" based off 1 minute blocks. I also highly doubt that a 13.2kg single phase baby machine like that is capable of outputting 300 amps.

Where does the radiator outlet vent to? You really want the airflow to be slowing down as it comes across the face of the radiator (low to high pressure) and then speeding back up as it leaves the ducted area (high to low pressure). If you're trying to vent the rad air under the vehicle there might not be enough pressure difference to draw air through the rad? Might work better to vent upwards through the deck behind the cab? (Until you load the deck up and block the vent).

@cute wee gem - this is wild. I'm super impressed at how deep you've delved into the project. Will you need to calculate the inertia of the roller so it can be factored into the power readings? If so, any idea how you'll do it? I've been following this dude's stuff for a few years now. He has an inertia-only dyno made from an old electric motor that gets used for motorbikes. It doesn't have any sort of retarder. He was lucky that the motor manufacturer had the rotor inertia specs available for him to base his figures off. He's also created some DIY dyno software called Ardyno that's

Nice work! Is the exhaust an actual softball bat?

This looks like it was a great meet. Well done everyone .

For Aucklanders attending: Blair Cosford is organising a cruise to Drag Day. I encourage y'all to get amongst. Here's the info: https://www.facebook.com/events/181675337005364/

A few photos from the Jarod Carruthers Photography. The car looks like it's behaving itself really well! There's minimal dive under brakes and it's sitting quite flat in the corners.

These ones were my fault. It happens sometimes.

@Bling - yeah, pretty much. I laid an enquiry (probably didn't word it sternly enough), but it was deemed a racing incident by the officials, so there was no punishment made. Unfortunately it goes with the territory in racing. Some people aren't aware that their skill level doesn't match their ego, so things like this happen. Thankfully it's the first incident like this that's caused panel damage to my car in 12 years of ownership... It's a numbers game and can happen eventually. It's quite similar to these two incidents I've had in the past. The first was deemed my fault somehow, th