Truenotch

I run W5s with bigger calipers and rotors (so more thermal capacity) than @Rhyscar and never have an issue from cold. They feel pretty simar up a hillclimb or at the end of a 30 minute race at Highlands. What rotors are you running Rhys? It could also be worth using some temp paint to see how hot they're getting. That thing is so solid. I reckon it has twice the fibreglass thickness mine does. Also Rhys, do you overfill your oil at all? I run an extra 500ml in my car. H6 rally guys run an extra litre in their engines... could be a cheap fix?

I'll see if I can make the C&C event this weekend @kiwi808. We have a car club autocross at Stoney Creek the same day, so it could be a stretch. @TimShadboltfan27 could bring the Wambulance across to blow some minds.

There, I fixed it @spanners. Project looks rad btw... agree that the chunky tyres are too tall, so you'd better hop to it and do some burnouts.

How is that roof not caved? Impressive. Glad to hear @Rhyscar is getting Garage4K sponsorship btw.

There's a bunch of MX5s running wide 13s, so I'm sure it won't be too hard. There's a selection of tubuar front subframes on the market because people use them for exocet / locost sports cars. It'd be interesting to see how a subframe might interfere with the Starlet body. Someone half converted Simon's old AE86 to FD RX7 front suspension using the factory RX7 subframe, arms and rack. I reckon a better planned version of this could be amazing.

Hey, I have a dumb idea for you to consider.... MX5 front knuckles and double wishbone setup. Benefits: cheap and off the shelf, well proven, lots of aftermarket support, already front rack, doesn't require 1970s British Ford parts.

It wasn't all smooth sailing to end the season. Remember this little bit of foreshadowing after Round 2? Well it eventually got to the stage where the tyre had no rubber left. I'd flipped this tyre around on the rim and rotated it to a different corner to stretch it out as long as I could. It did well until I asked too much of it under brakes and found the cords. That happened in the second race for the weekend. Race 3 was wet, so I chucked the semis on and kept them on for the rest of the weekend. Apart from that, the car was pretty solid all weekend. The diff is still having a whine, but has done extremely well considering how noisey it was before the rebuild. Here's the footage from Race 1: And the final 30 minute mini-enduro race to end the season. This was a crazy race, with the class 1 Lamborghinis and Porsche's coming through to lap us for the first time this year. Definitely spiced things up 😂

We had the final round of racing over the weekend and I came home with a new trophy for the pool room. First place in Class 2 for the year! Stoked.

Two questions: How many sets of new tyres could you buy for the price of the upgrade? How much racing will you miss by making such a big change?

How much plunge is left in your CVs? If you have heaps, you could make or fit a longer lower arm. We ran out of length on the Hinda City racecar at work and it started pulling the axle out of the gearbox. We had to go 10mm shorter on the [massively extended] arm to stop the issue. Otherwise the method @CUL8R just described is the easiest way to get a degree or two... ideally you should be aiming for -2° or possibly even more for track work. The wheels look rad.

Two questions: 1. On a car with a significantly modified floor pan, does the certifier need to see the work before and primer or paint is laid down? Or can it be put in primer before it gets inspected? 2. Can these bumper mount/boot floor stiffeners be chopped off or tapered down? They are unsightly and they won't be used for the rear bumper mount anymore:

Yeah, there was an NZV8 Commodore behind me and I didn't get the best run out of the hairpin. You can see it better in the race two video. They're great tbh. Highlands is hard on the RF, but the other 3 are all good. I had all the tyres flipped before this round and swapped them diagonally. Might get another 4-5 events out of them if I'm careful.

Good weekend at the track! I had one wild moment at the start of Race 2 that's getting me Instagram famous: I ended up with a 2nd, 3rd and two wins in my class for the weekend. The other two drivers I'm battling for points took each other out in race 3, so they both DNF/DNS'd the last two races of the day. That means the points should swing in my favour leading into the final round in a month's time. Kyle moved up to join me in Class 2 for this round and he's bought a set of CBY flares and 15x9 -10 wheels. The cars are getting closer to being twins as the days go by (He has his other wheels fitted here... The car won't fit on his trailer with 15x9s) The gearbox went great! It has a slight crunch up into third, but had zero issues changing down to second and the only gears I missed were driver error. Having VVTi working makes a huge difference. Last time my inlet side VVTi solenoid had a broken wire and it was a slouch until 6k+ rpm. This time I was able to pull through the forest hairpin in 3rd with no issues. I have some oil leaks to find... The RR axle seals are hosing out diff oil. This has been much worse with the thinner diff oil that's currently in there. I'll replace the seals and change back to a good quality 80w140 and hope that works. Here's the onboard footage from the first two races:

How does the shifter feel with the forward relocation? Most of the ones I've seen have issues with overthrowing the reverse gate. Not sure if that's just cause lots of boxes have sloppy reverse lockout restrict bolts, or if it's a feature of the relocation kits. My shifter is in the normal forward location for an Altezza and it doesn't get stuck in the reverse gate. Is the KP still running a T50?

Does the toe change through the stroke? I think Matt's referring to using bump steer to your advantage (common in the Honda world). You'd need to do a bump steer sweep and scratch your head a few more times to work that one out.