mjrstar

You can halve the surface area straight off as 50 % of the bar area has the external cooling air passing through to the radiator. Then take a look inside at the amount of vane material which extends into the airflow, minus this off next. Then take off the bar (or tube) thickness (top, bottom, and side material each bar is made from) as this is another reduction of internal surface area. @Beaveris right though it will work, (so would a straight piece of pipe though) it just may not be optimised. Just to clarify I'm not trying to be negative - just trying to educate from my own experience.

Sizing wise it should be ok, if there was any chance of going thicker say 75mm or even better 100mm this would help by reducing pressure drop across the cooler.. If a longer piping solution allowed additional cross sectional area I would look at that, because the pressure drop will be the limiting factor well before the internal volume of the cooler piping will cause you any issues. The 180x65 core may not have much more cross section than the 2.5 inch piping once you do the maths. (The 500 length will only affect cooling capacity not flow rate)

I have a remote on my hand piece but I don't really use it as much as I should. I tend to just compensate by going faster when it heats up or by doing a manual pulse by on-off-on the trigger if things are getting too hot. I feel like I have less control when I use 4 step and have my thumb on the adjuster. Other than cleanliness , torch angle and tungsten distance from the work piece are FAR more critical than steel. I find for tacking having the torch square to the work piece and the tungsten very close is netting me pretty decent results- (most of the time) and occasionally it turns to a disaster. The other thing which is handy is Pyrex lens so you can see the weld pool if you can't get your head in the right spot to see what you are doing. Tig is far more about technique and mig is all about machine setup. Link below is handy to think about some variables 5&6 are the ones I struggle with when fillet welding if the access is a bit rubbish. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-aluminum.html

If your tack takes more than ~ 2 seconds turn your amps up some more. Cold tacking causes the material to pull away from each other.

I reckon that intake shape /path looks spot on - good work! The other thing you can do is a high frequency quick cleaning pass without attempting to weld at all. Then give it a dose of acetone, a scrub ( wire brush scotch brite) , and another dose of acetone. I'm still battling a bit with AC tig. One thing I was doing was dumping my filler wire down on my filthy bench and then introducing crap into my weld next time. Now I acetone my filler rod before welding.

My latest cert came with a fresh WOF from the same guy. It will depend on who you use as to the requirement of a pre cert check. Sure they may pick up dumb shit you can rectify prior to cert which would save the certifier time and you some money?

16hp is probably single cylinder I would assume...

Anywhere that has potential to pool fuel is total poison to tune. I had an encounter with a supercharged pinto which was injected pre supercharger. Could tune it fine on song and at idle but the transition off idle when it gulped the pooling fuel was a disaster and the idea eventually was scrapped. Get those injectors as close to the head as possible...

Ability to run a wider valve angle than SOHC. . In reality it probably means they can use the same cylinder head casting and exhaust /intake setup with a number of different engine capacities and hp ratings saving themselves tooling and manufacturing costs.

Wilwoods are much better than they were a decade ago, I didn't actually say the were shit, and some people do get an ok run out of them. They were notorious in years gone by for warping the bodies and causing jamming pistons and premature seal failure etc..no doubt the majority of these problems are under control. Are Jeep using them as an OEM part these days? I thought the SRT8 and the likes were on Brembo, admittedly I don't follow Jeep though. My point is if I had two calipers side by side to use on a daily car that i would like 100,000k+ of trouble free motoring and one was a good used brembo, and the other was a brand new willwood I know which one I would use. Horses for courses though I guess.

I'm with him on that, on a road car I would go an OEM brembo 4 pot off something else rather than a wilwood caliper. If there was no suitable 4 pot then an OEM sliding caliper would be option 2. I have 6 cars in the shed with diy brake upgrades now. The modelling, testing and level of quality of pretty much any oem car part far exceeds pretty much anything aftermarket. (Big generalisation I know) If wilwood was genuinely an awesome caliper they would be popping up on oem performance cars. So when the latest focus RS of golf R comes with Wilwoods I will change my mind.

you don't need a MASSIVE disc for stopping power, the key is getting enough swept area without going overboard, you also dont NEED expensive 4 or 6 pot calipers.. My civic is approaching 1100KG's with me in it and it is capable of scrubbing speed at a far greater than my brembo equipped evo ever did, and does better than my whale falcon with 355mm rotors, the runs some 282 mm dicsc from some MG, and a honda odyssey caliper, plus some super dusty carbotech pads, these take an absolute beating with nothing in the way of fade. A good pad compound with a decent amount of master cylinder will do wonders. Something around a 260mm disc is enough for a sub 1000kg sub 200hp car, for occasional track use. If you are doing repeated lap after lap track work you may find the smaller the disc the less ability to dissipate heat, so for say an endurance car you run a slighlt less agressive pad and compensate with a larger swept area. As for bias, you may find the rear brakes are fine for car control you will be wanting it to have more front bias and increasing in bias as you apply more load, a rear upgrade may actually be the opposite of what you want as you transfer more weight forward. /TL:DR put the bluebird or whatever nissan stuff people put on with good pads and fluil, upgrade the master cylinder (all cars are under master cylinder sized IMO) unless you are 90 years old with no leg muscles. - i like a high firm brake pedal to give maximum confidence.

Those pbr calipers- if they are the steel versions you can treat yourself to ford territory units which are aluminum and take a 328mm disc. If you are already running the territory ones then carry on fine sir!

Skateboard mounted angle grinder?

The way it's staircasing the boost plot I would suggest the ecu is pulling ignition timing based on more load in the taller gear.