mjrstar

I had the cat back mugen exhaust with twin loop on my honda, it was spectacularly quiet.. I think I still have some bits and pieces of it lying around.. the muffler itself is ugly and bulky. I think the loop is designed to kind of cancel out the sound waves on the second pass through. The system was thin walled 2 1/4 dia (maybe .8mm) and pretty lightweight, and unfortunately worn out from too many ditch cuts.. Has a 3 inch system now, can still hear the induction noise so that's the main thing.

Since it's a honda, maybe it needs a twin loop muffler.

thankfully I wasn't tagged in the red starlet list above.

Not sure if I have mentioned this before, but a mate of mine had a supercharged pinto, with a suck through injection setup mounted vertically, it was a blast on song, but coming off idle it'd run super rich and backfire.. I did some road tuning prior to taking it to the dyno and got it driving okish. It ended up no better after an extensive dyno session. The theory was it was pooling fuel in the lower lobe area. He gave up on it and built an n/a motor for it. Maybe if you gear the blower to have decent velocity at idle you can prevent this from happening?

This sounds like hydraulic pump territory, could you build an air over hydraulic accumilator? You can get those small electric hydraulic power packs for for tip trucks. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/presses/listing/4882715028?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28W2BhC7ARIsAPerrcIMiHNr_QSqPY1er47r1FndRmEZdvxdIDYAL9apDYEBo7Vi_T82ZTwaArwPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Having spent way too much money modifying a bmc A series, I would recommend converting to something Japanese and 5 speed if you are not looking to keep it road legal or "original". It would be faster, more, reliable, have a better gearbox etc.. My personal choice would be something Honda, but there are plenty of options. Youd want to pick something that was reasonably easy to find a aftermarket final drive for to suit your tyre diameter..

I'll fax through the invoice for 1x chocolate fish.

Could you tap it for 10mm and run a stepped stud. Such as something a little like this. https://dubbed.co.nz/products/stud-stepped-stud-8mm-10mm-x-38mm The aluminum and stainless will kick off some galvanic corrosion.

The other thing with a concentric slave is they can be a little tricky to 100% bleed, but if you have a known engagement point at mid stroke it seems unlikely that it actually needs more hydraulic travel, well unless the master cylinder or pedal ratio is miles undersized. Also spent quite some time finessing the excedy hyper single in my honda. The adjustment was a little unconventional including a fork pivot mod, master cylinder spacer, and up and down stops. Due to too much hydraulic travel.

How much clearance on the pilot bearing(bush)? How close is the friction plate thickness to that which would be matched to the pressure plate? Is the concentric slave designed to be a constant contact, and if so is the spring weight appropriate? Come to think about it, I had a similar problem with the metro turbo clutch in my mini, I managed to start it in gear and then a couple of clutch dumps and it came good. Almost like the synchros were dry and the slightest bit of drag meant you couldn't select a gear.

I'd say if you haven't done rings then it's ready for full send I reckon. On a side note a mate of mine has a b16a racecar he wanted higher compression so put some second hand pistons in it, inspected the rings and bores and decided the 250,000 km original rings were still good to go. So no need to bed rings, and can get straight into swinging the engine to 9200 rpm again.

Slightly off topic, but i have found in my not particularly powerful fwd racecar that part throttle is something it doesn't see very much of.. certainly not for being traction limited, but occasionally for lateral grip limitations or to ease the diff into life mid-corner. Bearing in mind I have done pretty much zero in pursuit of horsepower, but have done stuff to improve grip, and added some lightness.

Slightly off topic, but an mx5 rear knuckle will take a Ford Lazer wheelbearing, which allows direct fitment of an evo wheel flange with no machining.

The manual conversion will certainly liven it up. Although your torque number is pretty good-must be the boost level. My pretty close to stock evo with the evo 9 based td06-20g made 245 wheel kw at 20 psi. Still on factory cast manifold and down pipe, with the assistance of some kelford 264's. I think it went 257 wheel kw on the Dtech dyno but that number might be a bit "happy" I did put some slightly agressive lean spool targets into it to help with the bottom end which saw it make 200kw by 4000 rpm. It seems like a lot of people disable the factory lean spool, or raise the limit.. but for a street car tuned by someone that knows what they are doing I reckon there is gains to be made../dyor

I'm with @Roman I've used that trick years ago on a setup with no idle air control.. Give it a tonne of air, then take away the timing in those rpm zones that equate to idle. Some people think it might cause high egt's but on an n/a with a free flowing exhaust I can't see anything too much to worry about. We're not talking about setting up antilag on a rally car. Overflow tank looks mint hidden away.