mjrstar

Am I dreaming or do doritos have the water pump run either clockwise or anticlockwise depending on which model. I'm sure the pulley I machined for rx7 rally car crashing guy ran off the back of the belt, and he asked me to knurl it for extra grip.

You might need to remove the dpf for a manual cleaning if it's been persisting for a while.

That doesn't look miles away from a stock ITR header, what brand? As eventually I'll wear the bottom out on my stock headers. The bolts for the heat shields are about 1/2 to 2/3 gone now.

The ~200kw at 4000rpm range is the same as my old evo. It had a nice punchy feel to it.

The other thing to consider is the minimum clean cut thickness you desire. Excel arc on sale, bit more than the aliexpress price https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/xcel-arc-xcel-arc-viper-cut-30-plasma-cutter/678424.html?utm_content=paidsearch-pmax&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19826383096&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f_BBhAPEiwAaA3K5E7c-segDyqzPS_Lw2krWf1mO29UcH_5Pu13HglI5kgvXBhn1y1wIhoCNbMQAvD_BwE

You'll need to decide if you want a cheap one with no built in air compressor or an all in one with built in air. Which will be a bit less admin /more portable. Most brands will offer both. We have an excel arc one at work, seems to do the trick. Local trade zone was good for service on an excel arc tig that got an unwanted drink and needed a new circuit board. Seemed cheap enough to repair and pretty quick turnaround.

In my starlet, i originally put it together with a 4.3, it was quite grip Limited with the way it delivered torque through the midrange. When I swapped to a 3.9 it was a much better combination, still a little bit wild but manageable, and better to drive overall with not not wanting to break traction at 1/2 throttle at 4000rpm. The diff ratio is just a speed reduction/torque multiplier at the end of the day. The question is do you want to target a specific cruise rpm. ( I'm sure the 20b would be fine mechanically around the 4000rpm mark) and fuel consumption will be garbage whatever the diff ratio. Because rotary.

Bring back @Post Merge , soz for the DP.

With a 20bpp are you expecting the car to be hindered by grip or torque? From a performance perspective if limited by grip then =taller diff, if limited by torque then go shorter. Not a lot of point in making more torque if it turns into smoke. I guess the other option might be a 6 speed with a long 6th gear used only for in the cruise, and ignored on the track?

Where do I buy a reverse rotation 4age, and a niteparts adapter to suit b series gearbox.

Where is the tldr, that guy went on a journey, and I did not follow. I suspect he spent a metric or maybe imperial fuckton of money on the engine to make a car that became pretty traction limited?

Dry sump the diff, the vacuum will mean no more leaks.

I'd suggest at that rpm on a b20 it's likely running a set of aftermarket sleeves, which are reasonably priced but not cheap to machine and install. Or maybe he's happy to send it and wait for tye zoom zoom boom. A dude round these ways make good power from a b20 with darton sleeves, 48mm Jenvy throttle bodies and a set of eliminator cams. Put into a lightweight ef8 crx with a good gearbox.

I've had some success with a bit of belt wrapped onto the pulley, then get a pair of chain grips onto it. Depends just how seized I guess though.

Can you scan it to check dpf pressures or % blocked on the dpf? Even egt's might give an idea. There might be a calculation that if it fails a regen due to dpf blockage not reducing it decides that extra fuel has ended up in the oil. Take it to mexico. A pull a day keeps the dpf light away. In my diesel the parameters for passive regen are over 1/2 tank of fuel, up to operating temp and >2000rpm. It probably needs 15 minutes or more at a guess.