mjrstar

Pivot ratio on a pull clutch means you get more clamp load for the same pedal effort. A lot of mid to late 90's stuff migrated to pull type including 4wd's so not just in performance cars.

I found with the later model evo pull clutch disconnection. Look for a really short youtube video and pay careful attention to the size of the flat blade screwdriver they use. Up until then it seem impossible/daunting. Once you get a feel for it, it's so simple.

I think my sensor takes a good 20 seconds or more to get to temp, post start? It's the old innovate lc1 I've had for a million years and had in a bunch of cars. In hindsight I guess I haven't baselined it against another unit to confirm it's accurate. So maybe it's telling utter lies. Sometimes I've powered it up for ages and then started the car, do you get some sort of error when the sensor gives out?

Proof that this hodge podge of second hand parts actually goes.. Maybe I'll do something interesting in it one day like motorsporting. https://youtu.be/CZP_rIdCIVw?si=VkaT5GhUNq_t8ZKN

So I was wondering when I set the boost controller to hold 15psi on the gauge it was sweet as, then when I checked back at the ecu logs it was reaching 22 and a bit psi. Puts glasses on, oh that's not 15psi on the gauge. I'll probably set up spring pressure, a setting at 1bar and higher boost at the current 1.5 bar. Anyway it goes pretty good, and power down grip is impressive, compared to my old starlet. i changed to my slightly bus spec steering wheel, fitted my harness which has the crotch belt, as the 4 point just felt weird, and epoxy is setting on my additional roof mounting.

I took this for a short trip to Mexico yesterday. It's got great boost response, and is shifting gears nicely the steering is perhaps a little too responsive (will try my bigger steering wheel) and spring rates are a little heavy. Haven't bedded the brakes yet but I think it'll have plenty of stopping power. The fuel map is decent enough, afr is 11.9 at 7 psi boost and settles at 10.7 at 22psi. Pretty safe and comparable to a stock evo. I haven't yet explored passed about 5500 rpm or 70% throttle as the boost controller must need looked at as the only thing holding the boost back was my right toe. The other thing not working well is the speed sensor, it's OK up to about 90kph then loses it shit, fixing this may be above my pay grade. I will also need to devise a way to stop the roof ballooning out at the front edge in the centre. I don't think it's from the wind catching the front edge, but is maybe from pressurising the cabin. But yeah makes wooshy evo type sounds as it should.

I'm interested to see how the catch can goes, normally take offs are baffled under the rocker cover to drop the oil out of suspension, but potentially you don't get this if the filler is straight into the normal cavity area.

This stuff is slippery and cheap. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/icon-plastics-75mm-x-10m-black-garden-edge_p0243433?store=9527&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21895743995&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7fbLBhDJARIsAOAqhseg9EuHk7D1vjutTqmDthZEQ-6IiVNTFro4vitvfVoITmdyUYyEqsAaAhRqEALw_wcB I've been using it for inner guard liner in my racecar, it's relatively sturdy.

Interesting, I hadn't thought of that, I'd assumed they'd be more geared up to sell you the latest and greatest rather than messing around with used ecu's.

Thank you fine sir, I was struggling to find much info around the original atom, my searches seemed to net results for the atom g4+ or atom II.

On the ecu there is no external can connecter/ cabling, but inside the case when you open it up there are 4 little prongs and the terminal is labeled CAN. So you'd need to modify the case to get the wires outside. But then is there anything you cave to do to actually enable this to do CAN things..

I have an old g4 atom in my Mazda. It has terminals inside for CAN but no external connection. Is it straightforward to wire this up, or is more trickery involved?

Does it approach 90 quickly and then flatten off like the relief is working? If it does then I'd send it. If not I'd probably still send it.

I've been back and forward on the front suspension setup, for sure the easy option would be some willwood kit adapted to the standard Mazda gear. But simple and I don't seem to get along when it comes to this car for whatever reason. These was a loose plan to use fd rx7 stuff but the steering arm was a no go. The other idea was a set of the gto 4 pots, but these are ultra hungry for spoke clearance and I noped out due to disc selection constraints. I spied a setup that had merit on my mates 2J converted MA70. So because this era toyota is so plentiful I decided to have a crack. Am I happy with this, well for a race car it ticks a few boxes, the bearings are nice and strong, on its current configuration the bump steer measurements are very good, and it packages what I'd consider enough brake rotor under a 15 inch wheel. What I'm slightly less stoked with: - The steering arm dropper has the mounting arrangement with some bending motion through the top cap screw. - The upper arm to knuckle interface is kinda weird and not very serviceable. It is however all reversible if I decide this isn't the setup for me.

Straight 6 for sure, so long as it's a turbo Barra.