mjrstar

@flyingbrick am I likely to have luck attempting to build a carbon overlay version of this dash?

I reckon the roller kits are bit of a waste of time. 50c brushes from bunnings are the go, plus cheap mixing cups.

I wouldn't be getting the discs machined on a car that I gave a shit about.

Interestingly the original panel was a whopping 200 grams and the cf panel is 65g so percentage wise there is some benefit.. No-one wants to see my pos Honda, its not really a project, more of just use it for events and make stuff for it when I am bored. Back to cf... Where do I buy a decent (cheap) vacuum pump? I'd like to do a dash next and then maybe front guards. Has anyone tried a sandbag or similar to back up a single sided mould to prevent lift away?

Fuel tank access panel. Not perfect but will do the job. Think of the grams saved!

Don't know the specifics on the j gearboxes, but a mate had an r154 out the other day, with a couple of issue hindering the shift quality. check the shift fork alignment on the selector shaft and also make sure there is no detent spring or detent pin trickery. Some times there are long and short detent pins/balls which could end up in the wrong place or no spring to retract the pin.

Vct is awesome. Fg falcon will do 60 degree swing on intake and exhaust, there is a silly trend going around that you throw ~30 degrees or more overlap (there is a simple overlap table in the ecu) to make 'ghost cams' at idle.. I would like vct on my b18c or give it something in the midrange but may settle for some mild cams because stock(ish) ecu life.

Haha paint once thinned and ready to pour into your spray gun is not that thick. Well not with my thinning ratio.

Along the same line as coffee filter, if you have disposable paint filters they work pretty well. I think I purchased a box of 500 or a thousand for 40 bucks maybe.

Decent camshafts are where its at for both na and turbo twin cam engines. So long as you can get exhaust gases not returning to the cylinder, bigger is better. The only thing you may give away is a little bit of idle stability with might be considered a pretty aggressive camshaft selection. The is a bit of a warning though, if you run a relatively small turbo you can't go too massive on a camshaft choice or you will run into reversion issues. But big a well flowing turbo / exhaust will be wanting for of big cams to match with a gain in spool torque and midrange over a smaller cam.

The splitter trims weeds so well though, it has lasted well so far and has some pretty decent grooves in it. Its also a truckload more work than a plywood when you consider the welding required to stiffen it. The rear diffuser is almost certainly too aggressive angle, and too high off the ground, it probably helps that it sits up against the fuel tank at the front edge and extends forwards a bit. Does it make the car any faster, who knows but so long as you think it is that's all that really matters. Motorsports is mostly a mind game, having OK equipment does help though.

Plus the diffuser, I used 2mm aluminium for 2 reasons, it was free and I wanted to practice my Ali tig skills.. I also have run into rear bias issues, the plan for this weekend is to install adjustable proportioning valve.

Couple of pics of my splitter on the civic. 3 pins slide into box section on the rad support panel. It's getting a fair bit of a beating, I smash it back straight(ish) after just about every event.

Have you considered another fuel tank that is not fucked? This is what I did with the last car I had with a crusty tank..

If its really bad it may have a worn oil control ring, if there is minimal oiling in the turbine and compressor housings you will be fine. As far as boost leaks go, a TD05hr should be cranking a few hundred cubic feet per minute when on song so any tiny air leakage would not even have a measurable affect. To put it in perspective I had a 6 inch long crack in the manifold on my car it still made 190kw at 8psi boost. The rest of the air was escaping out the hole in the manifold.