mjrstar

If you want to go faster at the drags and have limited intercooler sizing something like this co2 spray kit would be an option to consider. (or better still build your own) https://designengineering.com/intercooler-sprayer-kit/ As mentioned above if you rely on water meth injection and tune to capacity you run the risk of a meltdown..

The car is 165kg each side in the rear, the arm ratio for the wheel to the shock is around 3:2 from memory. I started with an 8kg rear, went down to 6kg, then added the 80lb helper spring. It is 'soft' but grips up well compared to the 8kg spring. No rear sway bar connected at present for hillclimb events. If i ever take it back to the track id reconnect the rear bar again.

I don't have a lot if time for a flimsy 5 or 10 lb keeper, but a heavyweight second spring (80lb plus) can be quite an improvement.. I was able to give my honda an extra 30mm droop, as its light in the rear spring selection was a bit tricky.. Even with perch and lower body adjustment.. / goes good now.

Open vs close times may differ on a pneumatic solenoid operation due to the volume of the shuttle (unless balanced shuttle). Even then they wouldn't be exaaaacccttly the sane. It wouldn't surprise me if the times listed are plus minimum open deposit time. More like a design duty of the solenoid rather than something useful to start your calculations fron. That sort of rate may also beat the daylights out of the needle seal and piston. Also does a change in viscosity effect the actual cycle rate say a thin cold glue could be effectively be easier to apply quickly than a thickish hot glue. We use nordson glue gear (at a much slower rate) they seem reasonable, with the odd failure.

I would personally be doing anything i could (within reason) to eliminate the need for the added complexity of a scavenge pump.

Roof mount turbo, end of story.

The table on the previous page has peaked my interest, my pos racecar runs a stock b18cr which when new was probably good to a touch under 200 flywheel hp. It currently has a thin walled 2 1/4 stainless exhaust system... I could go and make a new system but it would be heavier and I'm 50:50 as to whether there would be any benefit. (based on 185hp listed for me 2 1/4 system) Ideally a quick dyno session of a 3 inch side pipe vs the current full system would answer my question i guess. But i'm not really excited about spending monies on this thing.

Cheers to @64valiant for covering the top half. Sure its a bit less bling, but should reduce glare nicely. Also made a fibreglass blower duct for the demister which I would not have considered 12 months ago, which was pretty quick and easy with a cardboard and tape mould.

Gave it a very quick sand and applied some old clear coat I had lying around. Looks like it might work.

Make it freeboost then on /off with central lock solenoid?

Yeah that's just the spare dash blanked off ready for overlaying the carbon. Red paint was what I had lying to cover the jib stopping compound.

Not really any photos of the step by step, I took all the stuff out I didn't want, then filled the holes with cardboard and tape, then a bit of jib stopping compound (because easy to apply and sand) then some old spray paint because cardboard and jib stopping compound is pretty porous. Then usual wax pva etc before banging down a couple of layers of carbon, all I had was 300mm wide cloth so joins /overlaps are a bit shit. The underside is reinforced with some ~50mm wide strips of heavy weight chopped strand glass to stiffen it up. Then cut the edges to size. Basically because I cbf doing it properly with a mould first the finish is nowhere as good as it could have been but I was concerned with lift away at the edges with no vacuum equipment. Hey whatever it should do the trick. Photos of the prepped dash with some paint, wax and pva to assist with release.

I have one of these which I'm pretty happy with. 8m lead plus amperage adjustment on the torch. https://weldwell.co.nz/equipment/view/wia-weldarc-200i-ac-dc I think I paid ~$1600 on a bit of a hook-up through saeco.

Some progress on the dash, it's not going to be an amazing show finish but damn it's light. I have stiffened up the under side with some bits of chopped strand. Once that's cured I'll continue on with mounting points (hopefully). At this stage I'll probably cover some of the top with black microsuede or something and satin clear the exposed carbon in an attempt to reduce glare. Open to suggestions for cutout for the demister. Plan is a 12v hairdryer plumbed to some sort of DIY ducting.

@flyingbrick am I likely to have luck attempting to build a carbon overlay version of this dash?