mjrstar

Two things: 1, the flywheel can slip on the crankshaft rendering the timing marks useless. 2, the intermediate dizzy adapter drive ( the bit that has the gear on the bottom and slot at the top) can be installed incorrectly.. 2 is more likely than 1, and given your description sounds like it could be a tooth out. Which means you run short of timing adjustment on the mounting slot. The above suggestions from @RUNAMUCK and @nzstatoare definitely all good, I would start with a tdc vs crank position check because it's easy, and sometimes crank pulley removal can suck with the engine in the car, bearing in mind you cannot 100% trust flywheel marks. You could also add some fresh tdc and 10 degree marks to the crank pulley area as a rough timing light guide. EDIT: if the chain slackness is of concern perhaps watching the dizzy rotor or rocker gear whilst turning the motor clockwise and then anticlockwise slightly would give you an indication of timing gear wear.

Is the consensus that the max retard was the root of the temperature issues? Sounds rather glorious it's safe to say, you must be stoked..

Buy differential, make super long driveshaft, strap down, dyno tune, profit? EDIT BELOW... to add something possibly useful or not. You will have to make a bit of a compromise on the idle I reckon, probably to the point where it'll need maybe 30 seconds or more of no load idle / warmup before being able to be happy. I reckon the cold start fuel decay is more about air density change with manifold heat soak and wetting of the head / manifold on start than genuine running of the engine vs coolant and block temp. My 1ggte KP runs nothing in the way of an iacv, (or tps for that matter) and for a track machine built nearly 20 years ago it is a reasonable setup, with decent idle stability once its been running for a minute. Sure this you wouldn't put up with for a road car though.

^^ eat sandwiches & wave flag when told to or when you can see the track is not safe to hoon on, watch cars hoon on track etc..

I have machined it a bit at room temp, nice sharp tooling, and lots of speed gave an acceptable result for a Bush which is encased. (not a mirror finish, but straight an parallel with a bit of a dull look)

Hey, Another thought, it is pretty common to cook Honda voltage regulators at sustained high rpm. (ask me how I know this) I see you have some sort of aftermarket pulley, if possible I would suggest going larger diameter on the alternator to slow it down.

Yeah they are pretty cheap off aliexpress / wish. Have not broken one yet surprisingly..

I use Pyrex cups in hard to see places, they are all good.

@cletus was describing the exhaust paint on one of his project threads recently.

If its anything like my stock B18cr civic it loves the high rpm, if I'm coming up to a corner and it's not quite worth the upshift I'll just sit it right up the top of rev range.. The most I have seen on the datalogs is 9200rpm with the limiter set at 8750, it's pretty easy to brush the limiter when you are trying to squeeze the best out of the little n/a.. Although fitting a sequential shift light (if you haven't got one already) has reduced this and makes for one less thing to think about... I guy I race with ran the f20c gearbox in his escort and did mention some mis-shift problems, he has since gone a $$ sequential quaife..

Aluminium will be fine, I ran one of those fenix radiators in my evo for a decade or so with no issues, the drain bung was sub par in my opinion, so I would suggest finding a friendly aluminium welder to weld an An fitting onto the drain port and fit a cap.

I would weld a 1/3 piece of tube in the dump pipe to separate the turbine exit from the wastegate exit up to where it flanges to the exhaust housing. I am going to go with not clever as its going to lack adhesion.

Oh I'm not suggesting 'excessive' but I like less travel than is on offer on a perfectly operating braking on just about any oem factory car I have driven. Just like drive by wire throttle can have some lag, or even a cable throttle with too much slack from the bracket to butterfly you provide an input and you don't get quite enough result. It right up with reducing clutch engagement windows - man I can't stand a long lazy clutch window. This method is not designed to mask excessive pad knock off or a sticky caliper slider, or any other defectice component in the system. All it means is braking starts to occur as soon as you go near the pedal. Say you need grandma to have 15mm of pedal travel because she's not paying attention, I would prefer 3 or 4mm because I am. Especially if one has happened to increase brake caliper piston area or piston count. The one exception is a ferrari 458 which I drove once, which felt like it had a brake priming system (no idea if they actually do or not) as soon as you went near the pedal with your big toe there was some braking effort on offer. Very cool I appreciate your experience with oem and race braking setups leaves you with a solid understanding of what works for you.

For sure, you do notice the difference, it will require a touch more pedal effort but not to the point that you need both feet to stop the car.. The deadband in the pedal does exist as you first apply pressure to bring the pads up to the discs, minimising this is all good (in my opinion)..