mjrstar

@Hyperblade graph shows the 3 & 5 have the same starting point with operation from ambient and don't really split away for a couple of hundred degrees. Some of the behavior of the pad will come down to your braking duration which at a hillclimb is generally pretty short, and at worst you might do the occasional 180kph to 60kph. You really want something that won't pinch mid bump or at a turn-in when you are doing a bit of trail braking. a circuit car with smallish brakes might see a bigger gradient if it's doing longer stops for multiple laps with marginal cooling. And things like slick tyres which means you can actually use more braking force. The biggest workout my brakes have had was at waitara street sprints where it was basically a bunch of straights followed by low speed 90 degree corners.

How bad was the too cold /no bite on the winmax w5? Was it the sort of thing you can get away with more pedal effort for a couple of corners or worse than that?

So I've decided to control the boost like it's the 1990s. Surprising it is very stable which is cool. This has allowed me to do a bit of a full throttle run at low boost setting of 12psi which should be 300 hp ballpark at this boost level. Its showing slight wheelspin in the datalogs at ~110kph in 4th gear at 80% throttle

I wired the alternator with the resistor and bulb in parallel followed by the diode and it charges fine, still no illumination of the light but I've decided to move on for the time being. Also the speedo saga is drawing to a close. I logged the input frequency and it was approaching 500hz at 100kph with the 8 pickups. I shifted the sensor to the diff and have it on 4 pick-ups. I've run it up on my hoist dyno to 130kph and the signal looks great! Here's a datalog to keep Roman happy.

New cluster works.. slight technical problem though, the charge light is a no-go and this led to more volts than I was hoping for. The NA cluster is an integral part of the charging system. The nb alternator is controlled via the ecu so the cluster circuits differ. I robbed the big chunky resistor and a diode off the old cluster to keep the alternator in check. But I'd like to have the charge light function. There must be a simple explanation but when I wire in just a light to the alternator wire it doesn't illuminate. If I swap that light for an led it will illuminate. It seems to point to having a weak earth at the regulator? I don't recall if the light worked in the last cluster but charging voltage was rock solid. Gut feel is it something to do with the resistors in parallel with each other. Or are they there to protect some other part of the cluster due to shared supply? EDIT: Durr the resistor is there in the event of bulb failure. That doesn't explain why the bulb doesn't go though.

Turns out a mate had a set of the basic ones that involve a 2 step process. They make a decent job. Couple this with wearing glasses and a desk magnifying lamp thing and this is easily the least shit crimping job I have done, and makes me think I really should re-pin my injector plugs.. now that I realise it was a me issue not a problem with the terminals. I have a replaceable jaw set on the way from aliexpress.. I have been cave-man'ing these open barrel connectors all my life ffs.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1FqRfSxoen/ In bop and 18 8.5 43p and cheap

Ocd suggests never combine 4 spoke 5 stud or vice versa.

I'm going to be surprised if you get an 8.5 to fit.. well maybe if you mount some 205's on them...

Finishing the dash is on hold until the plugs and pig-tails arrive so time for a quick ecu swap. A de-pin re-pin and new plug was required before I could swap the 15 year old ecu out for a 10 year old ecu. 3 bar external map sensor means i now have a bit of head-room in the boost department, as I'd already found the limit of the 2.5 bar internal sensor on the original Atom. There may have other ways to solve this issue, but hey this is where i landed. Other than that it's nice to have the newer (still old) software and canbus enabled.

i have a spare bill Hincher narrowblock 4g63 to w series bell housing. https://www.billsautofab.com/projects/

Neither of these sound great. I do have a new in bag A loom. But seems like a waste to cannibalise this for 3 crimped terminals. Considering it's for an ecu swap that I don't even really need to do.

The depth of the white bit shows the gauge depth issue I was trying to overcome. One bonus with this cluster swap is the shroud profile is the same. Which is great as the plastic used is the most brittle substance known to man. I'd like to add the same diy sequential shift light I put in my honda, so long asi can position it to integrate nicely and be visible. I don't think i have room at the bottom like the ep3 type-r cluster in the honda.

Reliably crimping an AMP superseal terminals for an ECU... I'm looking at adding 3 wires to the loom will this be a disaster with anything other than the proper tool?

I ummed and aahed over the wiring situation for a bit, so if you are electrically inclined look away now.. at first it looked like there may have been an option to make some threaded adapters to connect up the terminals in the conventional screw in from the back deal.. but that was going to take depth I simply didn't have.. I settled in using the light well for the airbag warning and sending the leads inside to connect up. And there you have it... it looks almost exactly the same, although the gauge face sits ~1.5mm forward from stock but as the 3 smaller gauges all sit back from the tach and speedo it's not something you'd be likely to notice.. Does it work.. well who knows, I've got cluster plugs and pig tails en route from ebay USA.