mjrstar

Have you considered another fuel tank that is not fucked? This is what I did with the last car I had with a crusty tank..

If its really bad it may have a worn oil control ring, if there is minimal oiling in the turbine and compressor housings you will be fine. As far as boost leaks go, a TD05hr should be cranking a few hundred cubic feet per minute when on song so any tiny air leakage would not even have a measurable affect. To put it in perspective I had a 6 inch long crack in the manifold on my car it still made 190kw at 8psi boost. The rest of the air was escaping out the hole in the manifold.

Could plumb back a bov post air flow meter? That what I have on my air flow metered turbo. That way no idle issues if there is a slight leak across the seat under vacuum.

Yes. Generally standard petrol turbos in both auto and manual will have a bov. Edit - beaten by the man with an au profile pic

Not exactly sure on ratio but 4wd libero rear diff may be easy enough to get hold of. Will be 4x114 though.

Mine is front sump, i run a large filter and the sump has a small wing to increase capacity. Its around 5.2 litres, it has seen a bunch of track work and is still alive.

Oops retarded double / triple post. Sorry

Airbox lid.. in the post below for some reason. Does anyone have a good adhesive to gluing stuff to the carbon.. like mounting tabs etc..

Headlight blanks in and made a lid for my air box. The air box was 3 layers of carbon laid onto a thin sheet of aluminium with 2 quick coats of wax. It was a little over rolled / short on resin. I wonder if a little more cure time in the pot would have stopped the resin extruding.

I would leave it as is. The warm-up cycle of the trans fluid from cold will probably be more effective. Remember the radiator connections are a heat exchanger rather than a pure oil cooler, so you will probably maintain better minimum temp in cold conditions.

Part number on the dipstick is 15301-88300 - best to do your own research on the p/n but photo attached showing length. This is in my 1ggte starlet

Disengament point can be a little tricky to get spot on... you can remedy by choosing a different slave/ master combo, or in my case I just made adjustable pedal stops for the civic as the new clutch needed much less total travel. Works mint and will change gear as fast as I can even at 8500 rpm.

I have been down the concentric slave rabbit hole in the mx5 with its unconventional clutch setup - mitsubishi engine, GTR clutch and flywheel, corolla ring gear and 370z gearbox. This is a mission, even more so when the gearbox doesn't have a removable bell housing. Would not trade again.

Keep in mind you won't need to space the pivot out the whole 10mm due to the lever ratio. You may only need 3 or 4mm. Measure a reference on the lever / gearbox housing and Mark it, also Mark the max retracted point on the slave cylinder these 2 marks give you the window you need to space it to.

The correct way to do this is to space the pivot out toward the flywheel. Lengthening the rod is going to put the release fork on a gross angle and most likely affect the pedal engagement window. I had to do this when i put the chromoly flywheel into my hillclimb civic.