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Yeah there's a company called variohm that makes some like that. But they're $3-400 each kinda thing. Ouch!

Apologies if it’s already been covered. Any recommendations for weld through primer? Currently using the Colour Pak Spray Galv weld thru. It’s terrible. Fizzes, pops and burns off. First time me or the old man have used it before. Dad is closing in on gold card age and has been a Fitter/Welder since he was 18 (and still is). So whilst it’s probably the biggest panel beating/rust repair job he’s been a part of. I’d like to think it’s not his welding. Not using weld through isn’t an option unfortunately, because it was the repair certifiers instructions.

Finally got onto machining the full block. Its going pretty well. At about 7days so far with about 2 days left I think. Setup outside the trunnion to do the underside. Start on the top face with all the oring grooves and sparkplug area. Then Cambox faces. Exhaust/Inlet faces Water inlet side. Underside with leadins and roughing out the bores. Final opp to do is the bowl finishing which takes forever. Then Ill send it away to have valve seat cut plus final bore and hone by the guys that know what theyre doing!

Hall effect style tps should give a more linear reading?

Bit of a mixed bag today. It's probably been 1.5-2 months since the car ran as seems to be tradition when I pull something apart. So let's start with the good stuff cause there's quite a bit actually. * A new intake manifold gasket arrived, and that fits fine and seems to not be leaking. * "Rebuilt" radiator not leaking. * Replacement radiator hoses fit up, although not super in love with how close to spinny wheel of death the lower one is but that seems to be same as the one that was on there before; which as it turns out was from some kind of Landrover according to part number on the side of it. The lower one did have a slice in it when removed so maybe that's forewarning. * My replacement bush that I worked out for the linkage works excellently after some trimming down. Very little play in that whole system now after replacing some of the other ends with new ones too. * Fuel no longer leaking from carb fittings and seems like there's more air being pulled in from the rear carb now than there was before so I think that's improved. * Water system seems to be working now. Temperature came up fairly quickly and bubbles in the radiator etc so I presume circulation is happening. I'd say considering the water went mud brown it's likely to be circulating but might need to flush it out before actually filling with coolant. * Car still runs.. Onto the not so good.. * I did some Barry fab to make a wee block off plate for the PCV unit that was doing nothing, sadly it leaks a bit. Might need to revisit that one. I was re-using an old gasket that had some kind of molding specifically to fit the PCV filter unit as my gasket paper didn't arrive yet. Basically I just got impatient. * Not entirely sure if vacuum leaks are resolved. As part of the PCV system there are two vents on the intake manifold that I did a ghetto block off with (this is upside down caps jammed in). Again, got impatient as my block off caps didn't arrive yet. However, the rear carb does seem to be pulling more air than it was before so maybe that's working? * Car still runs shit. But.. I feel like things are heading in the right direction. I have an inkling the throttle tube in one of the carbs may be bent but also still possible vacuum leak. Hopefully my muffler arrives soon from Japan so I can weld that on and actually handle the car for more than a short time to do some tuning and see if I can get it to idle. Anyway, it will be an excuse to get one of them smoke machines now to see if there are any other leaks which I'm sure there are.

Well with the commodore project stalled at moment (actually software wise ive been franticly building some sellable products) Climbed into under and through my little Holden Trax today to replace the oil filter/cooler assembly.......... fuck my life cat converter off turbo off broke the oil feed spigot off in block, retrieved the broken spigot and got to point where ive dropped so many tools and nuts into the dark void of engine bay i cant go any further till i get them out. However its drivable again to get on ramps so ill water blast everything out and hope tools and nuts drop on ground. Trying not to like this little thing its hilariously quick with a tank of 100 octane on board, heated comfy seats etc it doesnt suck. But it needs to be sold to fund evrything else.

Cruised to Coffee and Cars at the Auckland Showgrounds today and then afterwards headed east to Buckland Beach. Bloody hot in the car but nice with all the windows down. AFR sits a surprisingly lean 13-14 at idle and around 12ish cruising and back to 13-14 off throttle. Not terrible but could be better. Bit dodgy looking down at the gauge so will have to sort something out to hang it.

Back into these wee things after a solid years worth of vehicular modification and various other side quests. Ditched the 3HP on the blue bike as it didn't have a good balance of being clapped out and functional, the ratio was off. Just too clapped out. Retired it to the shelf. I tore a pretty nice original 5HP apart for a freshen up. Honed it, new rings, new valves, re cut the seats, shaved the block "eyebrows" for better flow. Clear coated the whole thing to preserve the 'tina. I cut the motor plate off, moved it roughly an inch forward and burnt it back on. It's a bit of a must to fit the "big block" in the frame, otherwise the fuel tanks hit the tyre. No regrets, she runs hard now. 12t clutch with a 60t rear sprocket. Loads of get up and go off the mark with a pretty OK top speed. Nothing silly, it seems to be a pretty versatile setup for on/off road hoonage. The yellow bike is on the chopping block to get done before Christmas. There's always more to fix/fabricate than meets the eye with these little bikes! Here's the lucky recipient of a freshen up. 1974 5HP, ex Masport Rotary Hoe. She scrubbed up not bad. Clear just gone on in this pic. Going back together. Whizzed the engine plate off Burnt back on, and over to the right some, just enough to still be able to get bolts and washers on to hold the engine down. Looks right at home! And if you forgot what single cylinder flathead outdoor power equipment sounds like, here is a rather uninteresting video of the engine on its first fire up after the rebuild.

I've never come across that before. That photo you have of the cap has the same font as 2 junk rb25 heads(r33 and r34 neo) I have here and those are factory stamped.

i can really be an idiot sometimes (all the time) so that pipe i replaced up there^^^^^ was full of rust when i pulled it out of the housing, like FULL. blocked, you know, so water wouldn't get through. i never even thought about it at the time because i was like"well im replacing it anyway so good thing i found this blockage" it wasn't until hours later that it dawned on me, that's the outlet pipe for the turbo water feed. so if its blocked no water would be getting through the turbos, you know, the turbos that would boil every time i shut the engine off, you know, those turbos. so, its entirely possible that that blocked pipe was the cause of all this fuckery. probably. well, i guess without that blocked pipe we wouldn't have a Garrett G30 so every cloud ..........

i was lead to believe the 89/90 year RBs weren't marked at all and they only started doing it later on?

Yeah my last intake setup had 1x actuator pulling both banks open. I was getting frustrated with variations from bank to bank, so I figured that dual ethrottle would solve my problems... Ha! Yeah the ethrottle idea is alright, but if I can make it work fitting a gearbox'd motor directly onto the throttle shaft. It eliminates problems from linkages doing weird stuff or more points of backlash etc. TL;DR: ITB sucks balls for V motors, a single or dual throttle on one or two plenums would have made life considerably easier

Yeah that is an option. However it means I need to undo and flip all of the linkages, as they are designed to be pulled open from one end only. Then make some new throttle brackets. If the other options are looking no good, will go down that road. I took it for a trundle up the road with the throttle offset table in place, and everything seemed to match up nicely now but the motor was running horribly lean everywhere, like maxxing out 40% wideband trim adding fuel in, and still lean. The motor idles fine so I dont think it's a vacuum leak, maybe just has a lot more throttle area at low opening now. However after coming back from a drive it started dribbling fuel out of the charcoal can. So perhaps I've got the fuel return line and the breather line, the wrong way around. It looks like it might pay to add some insulation to the side of the gas tank that is parked near the exhaust so it doesnt heat it up so much too.

So, thinking about the amount of suspension travel I have in compression and the amount I had to flare the guards to accommodate it I thought I may as well find out if I am allowed to limit it some. So, I made up a cardboard template and sent it through to the certifier. I got the ok to do it which is good. I made up the bump stop stop out of some 5mm box section I had and have tack welded them in place. I suppose I should at least drain the oil out and remove the crown wheel cover before welding it fully. I have been doing a bit of googling the subject and some don't and don't have any problems welding on a diff with the oil still in.

Lesson ive learnt with any sensor.... any time its off the car in your hand replace it with a genuine one if theres more than one replace the others too. Yes its expensive but at least if something shits the bed you can return the lot easily under warranty.

That cam cap numbering is factory. You put the front one on loose and make all the other ones face the same way.

I remember you saying you couldnt, but I can't find where you did, but can you just run 1x ethrottle actuator linked to both banks? I know you can buy $$$ actuators, but the other day I saw someone had taken a 82mm bosch ethrottle, removed the plate and attached an arm to link to their itbs. Plus, they are only $270ish

Ahhh so the TPS issue. A bit more thinking on it, once the frustration faded. The TPS output was sort of banana shaped, and the 2nd TPS like an upside down banana. This reminded me that I had previously reversed the 0v and 5v signals on TPS2, so that it tracks in the direction of 0v when closed to 5v when open. This is fairly commonly done, and isnt an issue if the output is linear or if you are running only 1x TPS. However this is what made one of the banana shapes upside down and exaggerated the differences in the midrange. So I set it back, and fiddled the TPS angle a bit to match them as best I could. The outputs are still a bit shit, but, at least workable now: So this results in a table for Ethrottle 2 like this with some road testing I can see if the 2nd bank wants some small tweaks up or down to balance airflow. Will give it another run shortly once the laptop has charged up.

Side by side of an OG Dax, and the chopper Dax.

And pretty much ready for paint... This is where I get bored and lose my attention span, as I hate sanding...

Can you mount one tps on the back side of one bank, in my head that means it's just cycling through the same range if motion/same direction (assuming your throttles are opening opposite one bank to the other

I've been having a think. One thing that I've done was to reverse the polarity of the TPS on one side, so it still reads 0-5v direction when it opens. Instead of 5-0v. But if the signal is non linear and sort of banana shaped, doing that means I've flipped the banana upside down relative to the other one. So will reverse polarity back and then hopefully they match up a bit better through the middle. Will give that a go shortly.

Plug that second ecu in, and run the v6 as a pair of 3 cylinder engines to really give your tuning skills a workout.

Out with the old…