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  2. Thanks team, that's the info I needed. The clutch that's in it is a new standard item, so I might just run that with the lighter flywheel for now.
  3. Last update for a while probably. I am so chuffed with this car at the moment. I love it. It rides well with the new shockies, runs well and the wideband is sweet for keeping an eye on stuff, its just done a trip to kaikoura and back flawlessly with my mate and his MGB. I'm gonna drag the missus triumph out now and work on that and hopefully just be able to enjoy this as is for the summer.
  4. Window washer rerouted to mist the intake Probably don't spray methanol on the outside of it tho
  5. zep

    Tachometer tech

    I'm already all over that part. It's making sure that the needle is in the right place that is the difficulty.
  6. This is what I was up against with the IAT situation, just looking at some logs. IAT approaching 70 degrees while staging! So because I've mostly tuned this during colder conditions, I've been on the conservative side of things for high IAT for knock related reasons. I've never seen IAT anywhere near this, usually because car keeps moving while I'm doing anything fun. So I think I need to better shield the intake from engine bay heat, but also there's not necessarily much I can do about it if the car is just sitting there for minutes at a time. I'm only running about 25 deg max advance, but it's pulling out 7 deg in first gear because of heat. So I'll try get to a nightwars next time, assuming they start up again at some point.
  7. Today
  8. what a weapon! awesome reading the story too!
  9. Bling

    Tachometer tech

    For the face you could have someone 3D print it exactly how you want it to look.
  10. zep

    Tachometer tech

    Cheers bois. will have a geeze at this stuff and no doubt come back with more questions
  11. Ah this is such a cunt. Every time I think it can come out there is more shit that needs removed. Now it won't come out through the bonnet cos the rear engine mount hits the steering rack, I only discovered the rear mount late in the game and had to remove the inlet manifold to get at that.. but I can't get to the bolt so undid the bolts that mount it to the engine support, those are what is stopping it. So it looks like I will need to drop it, but I'm not sure I can remove the central engine support. I am grumpy and my back hurts now. It's getting close to being a scrapper.
  12. Change of ownership. Does anyone know what happens with the info the seller submits? I've bought a car for a family member and silly me gave the seller my details so they submitted that info. If I now submit the buyers side and use my family members info, will that end the world?
  13. the injectors i got for it are those ones with a cap on the top and a cap on the bottom to adapt them to different types of fuel rail and different lengths. dont get them. i fought the fucking o rings in the caps leaking for days. if the injector has even a tiny bit of angle to it as you ty and install it they leak. fucking piles of shit. managed to ruin a base seal and i dint have any spares so i had to improvise. i had a larger and thicker ones from a nissan so i set about making them smaller on the od and thinner. 2021-11-21_04-17-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-21_04-17-04 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-21_04-16-48 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-21_04-16-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-21_04-16-26 by sheepers, on Flickr with that done the only thing left to do was relocate the oil cooler and fit some fans to it. the only fans i could find that were small enough but still waterproof came from the states, they weren't expensive but they took a bit to get here. the oil cooler is now mounted on the side of the chassis rail between the engine and the rail, behind the steering rack. ive been driving it around with a thermocouple in the oil cooler just keeping an eye on the temps. its pretty good and drops fairly quickly as soon as your driving as there's a bit of air flow. so anyway i made a bracket type setup and mounted the fans onto the oil cooler. all i need to do now is wire in the relay and they should work. im back on the dyno on Tuesday so yea, lets see what happens. 2021-11-28_05-10-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-28_05-10-31 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-28_05-10-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-11-28_05-10-14 by sheepers, on Flickr
  14. kicker

    Tachometer tech

    This thread might have some useful stuff in it https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/building-an-analog-race-dash/181498/page1/
  15. h4nd

    Tachometer tech

    This guy did it, (below). These servos should track 0-full in ~1/2 second (test 'em first) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/arduino-compatible-9g-micro-servo-motor/p/YM2758?pos=1&queryId=fd47b6f1a1e862373396fd71c281927d https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLsrjLIHxM
  16. @Barnz.NZ Been a while since you've posted but do you remember the tire sizes any chance? Got some wheels in a similar size from pine an trying to work out a tire size that'll work where cops won't grump to much about is doing my head in lol
  17. Can't change my mind now... I also removed the spring mount and chassis rail as it gets in the way of one of suspension mounts. I'll be making a new chassis rail on the inside, that boxes in the corner between the floor and the wheel well which will wrap around to join to the sill. That will tie into the new box section between the towers and the new front subframe mounts. Those two panels either side of the spare wheel well will become chassis rails to tie the framing at the rear of the boot with the strut tower box section and have plates inside with captive nuts for towbar mounts.
  18. zep

    Tachometer tech

    Hey all, Currently I working on a project to build a replica of the stock Gemini tachometer. They were a pretty rare option so purchasing a cluster with one is getting really expensive. It looks like this: My plan is to pull a tachometer unit from another car a bolt it up to a new face that i'm working on. I've looked through pretty much every car at my local pick-a-part and have not found a replacement that has the indicies in the same locations as the Gemini ones. The ones I have found that are very close appear to be "air core" gauges, which, rather than having a postive, negative and signal wire, have sin+, sin-, cos+ and cos-. I assume that these are run from the car's ECU or some kind of microcontroller? So I guess at this point I have two question: 1. Can I recalibrate another - regular type - 0-8000rpm tacho unit to line up with the indicies in the right place by modifying it somehow? 2. How do you get an air core tacho to work? Can I make my ECU (Link Xtreme G4X) do it with the right calibration? Or, can I somehow make it work with the oldschool coil signal? The lazy way out is to just make the face to line up with whichever tacho unit I pull from the doner car, but I would really like to have the face looking at OEM as possible. Anyone know about this stuff?
  19. Made it to the drags! Man it was overcast but steaming hot today, during staging I was getting 60 degree IAT, then down to about 40 by the end of the run. Was like a sauna in the car with the windows up and no fan or anything haha. Anyway, my best overall time was 14.74 @ 94.6 mph with a 2.572 60 foot. I had my fastest trap speed earlier in the day when it was cooler, did a 95.58mph. Which was funny, although I was slower quarter time, I ended up trapping faster than the V8 SS Ute that was in the other lane Was an awesome day, so much fun! Only issue was the alternator detentioning itself a bit. Clutch got a bit soggy after some burnouts. Despite everyone telling me that I shouldnt run a standard clutch, well guess what? Yeah they were right. So basically, yeah, my launches suck. Definitely need to abandon 185 wide front tyres if I'm going to further my drag racing career haha. I reckon there's a few more MPH in it with a better exhaust, as I'm still running the standard pea shooter system. Will work on things some more and head back! Hopefully they will run night speed again, so I can get some cooler IATs. Maybe need to look at better partitioning and heat shielding the intake from the engine bay air.
  20. In desperation for a quick thing to do, I spotted the rear trim in need of attention. Previous beanbag hadn’t removed it when he bombed it enamel black and there was mis-masked bits all around the edge. I hit them with some paint stripper on a modelling brush (using wire wool was a go-to but it polished the alloy this time) then masked it up and sprayed the satin black indents. I realised I had no unmasked before shots, so imagine most of it faded like above. In structural repair cert news, my brother was putting another car though and had a bust up with his usual guy who’s attitude went to shit along with his ethics,professionalism and interest in the hobby. So that ships sailed before he even looked at Dodge. it’s coming home on Tuesday where I’ll try my luck with the local guys after Xmas. If they can’t get on board without having previously inspected it prior to repair (we have hundreds and hundreds of reference photos before/during/after) then I’ll just finish it the way I want it and drive it regardless.. life is short and the world is fucked. I have a windscreen on order but it sounded like February before it would arrive dang it.. that’s all that would be missing if I were to throw it back together for muscle car madness (my deadline from the start) but with this covid passport atrocity I won’t be able to attend anyway. In shinier news, Here’s a fellow bee my Mrs saw at Kaikoura hop!
  21. Rewind even further. Before I tore into the engine I needed to do something with the bumpers because they were cluttering up my work bench. They’re alright on the outside, and mostly straight but the overriders have seen better days and probably a few knocks too. I wanted to do an overrider delete anyway because I prefer the look. The insides of the bumpers were deeply rusty. I mummified the shiny side with masking tape. Then, I spent ages trying to clean up the inner surfaces. Starting with a wire brush and then moving to sandpaper. This took hours! The end result wasn’t great, but I cleaned and degreased them and then went Brunox x 3 coats, high build primer, then 3 top coats in black. I then needed some long bolts to replace the long studs that are part of the overriders. No bumper bolts I have seen are anywhere near long enough, so I ended up buying stainless engineering coach bolts. These are a very dull finish and have grading numbers on the heads. I ground the numbers off very carefully with my most worn out flap disc. Then I went through wet sanding by hand up to 2000 grit and then finished with Autosol. They came up nice. No wide shot, sorry due to fullness of shed, but I’m happy enough. There are some visible witness marks in the chrome mostly on the rear bumper where the overriders used to sit, but the bumpers are not the worst looking part of the car by a long way. I’m no further with the engine either.
  22. ^this x2 The disc looks pretty fucked (looks like it should have grooves in it which are worn off so it's probably done heaps of kms It's a gamble to reuse the pressure plate because you could fit it and do 5km or 50000 km before something breaks
  23. Discussion, compliments or complaints here:
  24. Personally if a new clutch is available I'd just buy a new pressure plate and fiction disk kit and get the flywheel surfaced then you know it's as good as its gonna be. But of extra cost now is better than taking motor/gearbox back out again imho
  25. I don't mind buying a new friction plate, if required.
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