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  2. When we imported the wifes vitz from Japan it would do weird shit. Turns out the fuse for the Alternator "sense" circuit was missing so ECU wasnt able to tell alternator to output anything Can only assume another vehicle nearby on the wharf or ship needed a fuse so they grabbed on from the vitz
  3. Today
  4. Thanks Clint, that makes sense. Yeah I'll go with a wrecker if it's a last resort
  5. I went on a barry rabbit hole and found out pretty much all 92-2001 small hondas (b and d series motors) all have the same ac compressor. I noticed the orthia has a nicer shaped discharge (heh) hose, the crv has the same shaped hose so I grabed one from pick a part. It brings the line closer to the chassis rail and away from potential turbo stuff. Found a service port adapter and valve removal tool on rock auto for cheap so got them with some other stuff I had coming. Now low side has a R134 service port, it took me a few attempts to realise I needed to remove the old valve before screwing that fitting on I also grabbed a high pressure line off a ba Falcon so I can use the service port off that or just use the line as sleeve. I also figured out the self install or diy ac line kits use oetiker or double ear clamps on their lines. Once the condenser arrives I plan to chop the crv condenser end off and use the ear clamps on one of the fittings I got off AliExpress. If it doesn't work it was a $30 experiment and I can still use the crv alloy shaped hose and braze a mior fitting onto it
  6. It's the low pressure ac line. Was $250 all said and done. From memory the last power steer hose I had made up was a similar amount
  7. Hi all, I’m currently looking at getting some itb’s for a new project, I’m needing something around 50-51mm in diameter needing in a set of 4 ideally. does anyone know of any motorcycle itb’s, or something off a random car that are around this? I know there is aftermarket options but I have short arms and deep pockets. I’m aware bmw s54 etc but again, spendy… has anyone delved into this hard and come out with any good options?
  8. Out with the old, In with the nucleus.
  9. @KKtrips and or @cletus Just read Chris' comments in the dodgy cert advice Facebook group around the bump steer swing test. On a ke70/ae86 with Techno Toy Tuning roll center adjusters between the strut and steering knuckle is a swing test required for Cert if the car doesn't have adjustable height tie-rod ends? I know @advokit had trouble getting a cert because he had bump steer adjustable tie-rod ends and ended up reverting to factory as he couldn't get his bump steer within spec. Will I need a swing test with just the RCAs? From my understanding the factory bump steer in a corolla is pretty bad to begin with?
  10. Can you draw a diagram showing how the K11 surge tank pump box thing works? I need to make a custom tank for my Triumph, to fit between the strut towers it has now. I'll need to figure out some kind of arrangement to prevent surge. I was thinking of putting in curved partitions so the fuel gets trapped in the 'dam' rather than going all the way to the end of the tank. I don't really have the space to make a well in the bottom.
  11. Better give this an update... Yes I did find some genuine replacement parts, and so back together it goes with new bearings/syncros etc.... While I have a transfer box I rebuilt for the back end of the conversion I thought it best to rebuild the one I had here. Needed a new set of main bearings (which cost a few $$$) but everything else was in fair condition. Its way easier to assemble vertically on the bench. Though I havent yet gone to the effort to move it off yet.... With that done I need to give the engine a good clean up and external refresh, more soon.
  12. Yesterday
  13. I tried removing separating the test sample at local engineers yesterday. Got to 12 ton pressure and it wasn't moving and the shaft we were using to push with started bending. We called it quits before it spat out (had put a shroud around the lot but still...) I'm going back with a beefier press tool. I want to see and hear the bang No way it's gonna shift in my setup that's for sure.
  14. Sprint car and midget full width axles simply have a shrunk on flange for the final drive. It'd be easy enough to scotch key your setup if you wanted belt and braces.
  15. Rear shock, needs a new top hat, im assuming this is just factory stuff, hit me up if you have one!
  16. Peak Engineering textbook and probably one of the best books ever written Shrink fit the axles is a brilliant idea, love it!
  17. With space in the nose cone so tight the only way to wire the headlights and fan was to take the front off for the umpteenth bloody time….grrr….! So much easier to wire on the bench. Found some heavy connectors to make disassembly easier in the future. Love using the old school fabric wrap. I’d bought a big box of connectors off Banggood for a price that was too good to be true…….. … so I wired up the headlights. I refitted the front………. I refitted the front………. I installed the gorgeous over-priced P700 headlights…. ……..and started blowing fuses whenever I powered them up! After an evening of uttering nasty horrible words and throwing thinly veiled insults at Rigamortice re the marital status of her parents at her time of inception, while going round and round in circles with a variety of test lights, test probes and multi meters - I discovered the f****** “too good to be true” Bangood connectors were………. You guessed it ‘too good to be F****** true’! After a quick trip to Jaycar the following day, I paid through the nose for the right connectors…and we now have head lights. And as an added bonus they even worked in the dark! So I stuck the bonnet on and discovered it didn’t fit…. I loosened it off and started pulling things into line before re-tightening. Finally, it all fits, (sort of).
  18. Exhaust box....An empty tube - say 4inOD 1.6mm wall. Across the back of the car. Your two sides discharging into it straight in 90deg to CL. Discharge pipes from each end. 1 1/2in OD. Length inside box to be perf tube same 1 1/2in OD. Close/blank off the inner ends of this and make them overlap with a figure 8 support in the center of the box. 90 deg bends outside the main tube for the discharge pipes to point them out the back. This will work - and not be too noisy.
  19. Thanks man. I'm glad to have sorted that bit out ok. Now scratching my head on exhaust box design.
  20. Loving the fuel tank shenanigans proper design and thought out... not that you do anything less than awesome
  21. Well I don't think this dudes earlier 1800 has the same troubles. It just keeps bouncing back! ( I reckon a 1500 would have had its cam belt housing/pulleys smashed) This fella Matt has some cool vids inc a nice offroad trip in Idaho back country on this bike.
  22. Toyota wreckers are thieves especially van/prado/hilux ones. Buy every single wreck at top dollar, corner market, print money. Around here anyway. Good luck
  23. That's a pretensioner belt Should replace it with the same thing so the airbag system still functions If the belt is changed to a non pretensioner type the air bag light will probably stay on
  24. I pulled the unit out of the truck, tried cleaning to no avail. I thought flag it, I'll head to my local decent parts supplier for an aftermarket seat belt. The factory Hilux unit has a gas canister on it and the parts shop suggested I try my local commercial wrecker instead. Can an aftermarket non canister type be fitted as intended?
  25. I guess you could use something like this to drive the tacho if its analogue, https://spiyda.com/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-external-1.html You should be able to feed the tach signal from the ECU into the box, but as Goat says, there will be a few different makers of things like these now. Im running this version of it for the Smiths tacho in the Marina, which takes the signal from the negative of the coil, does some electronic wizardry and then the needle moves, https://tasteslikepetrol.net/2021/06/project-marina-tacho-conversion/
  26. I was looking at this a few years ago with my 240z. Assuming Volvo is inductive loop setup like the Z. I found a few guides on how to do it (i just did a quick search but couldnt find any that still had current pics etc) There was a really good guide on a toyota forum of how to do it yourself. I ended up just getting a MSD tach adapter. There seem to be a few other players on the market for tach adapters these days, so the may be a cheap magic box you could use.
  27. Hi, not sure if this is the correct place to post this. Apologies if not. I have a 1980 Volvo 244. It now has a 1JZ-GE and Haltech ecu. Ignition is cop, so the original single colil is no more. I'm trying to use the original gauges, and have been trying to make the tach signal, using a relay coil, ito imitate the old ignition coil. If anyone has done something similar, or has a helpful suggestion or can point me in the right direction. It would be very much appreciated. Cheers Brendon
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