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I bought a 3" Adrenaline R muffler, and I've been hoping that just 1x muffler will be sufficient. So welded a flange on and bolted it up to the end of the 2-1 section to test it out before committing. I'd say its probably still a weeee bit too loud (Still need earmuffs on when it revs out) So I'll have to try stuff something else in there too. This one was filmed with the camera bit further back, and the audio recording level turned down so it wasnt clipping. In person it's still ear splittingly loud. Currently the ignition timing is all very conservative, as I'm not sure what the motor is going to like with port injection and the 12:1 compression. Overly delayed ignition timing means more exhaust energy (noise) comes out the back. So it will quiet down a bit as the timing gets dialled in. Currently there's no VVT advance happening, everything is just at home positions. So from experience the intake starts getting a LOT LOT louder when you start introducing some overlap. As much as I do love some incredibly obnoxious intake noise. If it's so loud that it's melting my brain. Will need to make an airbox to calm it down a bit. Ha. I am still chasing an issue (by which I mean I havent investigated it yet) where the reported voltage to the ECU drops off, when the rpm goes up. I am suspecting this relates to a bottleneck at my fuse/relay box. So will do some troubleshooting. I have officially run it to the 9k mark now, and valvetrain has survived. Haha. So hopefully a bit more left in it yet. It feels tantalizingly close to being drivable! I need to make some heat shields in quite a few places. As there is a huge % of the engine bay that is line of sight to the radiant heat emitting from the exhaust manifolds. This video is probably a fairly good representation of how the car will sound when it's finished and driving.

I've never heard of Bilstein or Koni shocks not passed with perch sitting on a single circlip groove in all my decades in hondas. Always easy to argue both brands are able to be sourced from repco etc as OEM replacements. I've heard of people failing when there's multiple grooves as those are not OEM grooves and there's concerns over if that was suitable, and I've also heard of Wofs being a visual inspection and electrical tape strategically used 🤭 Hondas have different perch heights too, like the DA Integra one is flat perch because it's longer spring and EF civic is a 1.5 inch tall cup perch. So me swapping out the DA perch onto my factory EF shocks lowered my car by 1.5 inches. Was it legal? Dunno. Do I continue to be a degenerate? Yes

That Morrinsville event was great, cheers for the heads up about it. I was amazed at how many of each type of car were there, I wouldnt have thought there were that many left in total. Yet heaps very nicely presented, so probably at least 10x more still lurking in garages etc. Love that you're putting some mileage on the car and out enjoying it!

such update

Pretty sure my cousin had a few there. Green vg wags, purple vj/h Ute and his new Yorker. Looked like a great show, mopars really are quite something.

No worries, I was hoping it'd help some people! Msg me and ill send my insta. Also I will be continuing on with this build shortly!

Too much 420 young man?

I think this will do just fine

Well shits been happening. Ryan at OCD Performance in Te K banged out a full new loom with all the bits and pieces i was after. Was after a clean hidden loom in the engine bay which he bloody nailed i reckon basically cant see anything once the airbox is back on. Cars home now to strip down and send body to the painter and then sort someone to build the engine.

Sheds finished, completely unorganised but the hoist works. Arms on the hoist are too short for the front chassis rails so waiting to hear back from the installer when some longer arms turn up. Might see if swapping front to rear would work.. or, I could turn the car around lol. In the last year or so I’ve picked up a complete wiring loom out of an 83 from a GC down in Christchurch who labelled everything as he pulled it out. Also picked up a factory instrument cluster as I’m more keen on that that’s a digital dash. Knowing me it’ll probably be another year or so til I make an effort on it but at least I walk past it every day now.

Hunterkiwi's mini bike was the same, we put a new plug in her and it was golden.

Still think it needs 6.5HP Chonda motor Wheely bar on the back And metal flake over that purple That will get bishes!

Quick and dirty trick on the SU…. When it falls on its face, pull the choke out. If it recovers and takes off, it’s lean. If it drowns, it’s rich. What is the carb originally from? Pop the needle out and look for the 3 letters stamped in the shank. Then pop the letters into this http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ as your baseline….. and start comparing. Haynes SU book is useful for looking up OE needles and springs. Springs are also important. A stronger spring makes the needle richer throughout by increasing vacuum above the jet. Timing wise, you can find and mark TDC. You can also measure the diameter of the pulley, work out the circumference and divide by 360 for mm/degree. You’ll typically want about 30 deg “all in” at around 4000rpm

And so there was, a 66 monaco. Different tail-lights extending onto the trunk lid and different grille for 66. The monaco was the up-spec 'fairmont' to the polaras 'series 1 au falcon forte'. Great show, roughly 100 old mopars in attendance, split pretty evenly between aus & yank. I especially appreciated the rainbow array of chargers. Suprisingly there were no ap5 or ap6 valiants or dodge vans in attendance.@Roman came too in order to graph number of antiquated jalopies vs soil hydrocarbon levels.

@johnnyfive If it is silicone, I've never tried this: https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/sealants/selleys-sealant-remover/ so, try and report back please? but good quality elecrical is often coated in 'Conformal', tho I've usually only seen that in a thick paint like layer, not in buik. Again, a bit squishy, feels like a more rubbery silicone. https://www.vaniman.com/ultimate-conformal-coating-removal-guide/ If it were me, I'd be using plastic scraper / wood ice block stick, and seeing how it comes up. If you get it good enough to look at the parts, a coffee and lamington says one/some will have leetle volcanoes in 'em. Send pix, for our amusement. I've seen a great time lapse video of a PC keyboard being completely dissolved (PCB fibreglass and all, except for the copper) in a jug of Acetone, so probs don't leave it in overnight.

Speedo was doing stupid things and when I revved the engine in park it'd say I was doing 20k. Trans also felt like it was trying to take off in second and wasn't shifting nicely I thought there may be leaky caps or dry solder joints in the transmission computer. Whipped it out as it was only under the passengers seat. Looks mint, did a quick and dirty re flow on solder joints on the header plug and stuck it back in Ssangyong barry forum said the tps are common to shit the bed or come out of adjustment and its fairly common for the speedo sensor wiring to have issues. Checked tps and it was within spec and the voltage didn't jump all over the show when it moved through its range so that's ruled out. Crawled under and had a look Initially looked okay when I unplugged it so I dug a bit deeper Yeah that's not quite right De pinned the connector and put some heat shrink on https://i.imgur.com/vIe9Uhc.jpeg And more for good luck Put it all back together Got annoyed at the diesel oil schmutz on stuff so took it to wash world on the way home Now I can figure out where it's actually leaking from. Bonus it'll be less dirty when I fondle the injection pump and wastgate hose. The transmission now actually shifts like it should and doesn't feel like it's slipping or doing dumb stuff. It's less slow now the transmission knows what gear to be in and torque converter lockup operates

I cut the last one to bits with a craft knife. It had like aquarium gravel in about 5mm under the soft stuff. Shit job all round

I have had success with acetone one time, but got high af, and it might have done damage to some of the tracks on the board. Maybe it was me when I was high af?

Electrical nerds (title given in the nicest way possible), @h4nd ? Got a CDI/gearbox brain from a quad bike that blows fuses when it's plugged in. Previous owner said it was cooking batteries/over charging. My belief is that this magic box has suffered from too many volts. Back half of the box is sealed up in a slightly squishy (silicon?) manner. Best way to expose it's guts? Craft knife? Dremel? Solvents? I'm hoping for something obvious in there, but have to get it open first.

I was expecting this 🤣

So before I sort the oil bullshittery, I want to make sure it's running well and ready to rock for LVV. That means sorting out the flat spot that was previously off idle but is now under load over 2000rpms. The carb is fully rebuilt but I have no idea what needle is in it. Before I crack that back open I'm going to sort the timing out. The issue I have with the timing is that the original timing was done from the flywheel (I have a custom one) and through an inspection hole in the bellhousing. Of which I don't have as it is now an adapter plate and VW beetle related. So any timing was done by setting TDC and then by ear at idle. Starts really well without the choke so I felt comfortable that it was within the ballpark. But the issue I'm having with the bogging down under load is either the carb/fuel or the timing. Seeing as I have rebuilt the carb and being an SU there isn't much to adjust, I'm going to sort the timing first. One thing I can't remember is if this is the same dizzy I used in the EA71 which was fine. If it is then that's a worry. I can't remember however. Upon giving the vacuum line a suck, the advance plate thingy moves perhaps a mm and doesn't stay moved. I can move it perhaps 15mm by hand but it is very stiff. I did a whip round to my other shitboxes and the vacuum all worked on them just fine. So that is one problem needing fixing. Yellow arrow pointing to where I have to get to first. I'll take it out today and perhaps order so new bushes and spark module thingy for it so I don't have to worry about it for a while. In the meantime I'll figure out how to make some easy to spot marks in the front pulley at TDC and a marker to line it up with so I can use it to adjust the timing. I'm not smart enough to be able to mark it for different degrees but just knowing where TDC is with a timing gun will help me a little more than what I am doing now. I have seen timing tape you can stick on a harmonic balancer but owing to this being a front pulley I can't see how that will work. Here is a video with a couple runs stitched back to back with the carb at base settings (two full screws out) and the second half of the video is the carb wound out to where technically the choke would be considered "on". If I just use 1/4 throttle it's fine. Anything over and it doesn't like it. That I was even able to get around is due to the light weight of the vehicle and adequate torque this tiny thing puts out. \

Have a couple of full sets of valve gear now. Valves, springs, retainers, guides. Dad machined up 2 sets of guides. Just need to ream them to suit inlet/exhaust clearance etc Fitted out the small shed as the 'foundry/pattern making' shed. Getting back into sand making with a new foundry which is exciting. We just made 4 cylinder block halves and starting on the water jacket and cylinder cores at home now. Im hoping to have them all assembled next week and head up to Auckland to cast them. The plan is to machine inhouse so I might need a couple to get it right!