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<3 I'll get some measurements in the morning. I'll also call around on Monday to see if any motorcycle shops or ATV wreckers or whatever have one available. In the mean time I've pushed the button to get one from Japan (right as we enter their holiday week...)

I sold this to pay for the v8 rebuild but I had a go on a few of the later TS250s but I reckon the 185 ER is way better, if anyone has one of them they want to part with I would be keen.

I looked but they seem for the later bikes? I have a few engines now anyways

your not tempted to get an aliexpress bigbore kit?

I have tried sliding doors and butterfly valves in home made mufflers with much disappointment, you may get a slight change but the baffle chamber of the bit of the muffler that has been bypassed still will still do its job if any part of it is open to the exhaust flow.

Posting a better startup vid, finally got it all plumbed up. Had a few comedies of error but she seems all sweet. There is a pretty decent oil leak under the oil pump drive so I need to have a look what's happening there, and the stupid silicon rad hoses don't seal up that nicely.. Aside from that, listen to it in all its glory! It's an angry little thing.. https://youtu.be/7W1fyjg7ixE?si=2oTXfh21blaNmg9b PS how do I embed the video?

I'm just imagining the look of incredulity on the traffic cop's face when you roll through a checkpoint on that thing.

I checked my hiace one here and apparantly it is... But yeh cast/forged possibly. I spoke with the bald jesus @cletus himself about about narrowing them that way eons ago and he rekons it was a jailable offense at the time or something like that.

Are the axle flanges cast though? Some diffs yes, some diff no?

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/09421-04005 I love that this is a quad bike part...

You can make a new woodruff key yourself with a little bit of key stock. If you send me the width/length I may have a bit here I can send

Proof of progress

Technically no if it was spotted because you are not allowed to weld castings, which is why I shorten them through the housing tubes. If you remade the flanges from weldable steel however...

My diff has been shortened but I have realised that it would be good to come in about 5-10mm more on each side. Since all the brackets are already welded on, would it be okay to cut the axle housing flanges off, remove that 5-10mm, and weld them back on? I would shorten the axles at the splines to suit.

Too friggen right. I was saying to old boy I’m gonna rattle can it satin black. He told me to take the remains of the gloss black he got as part of his sponsorship for his dirt cars. After almost 49 years of speedway he has finally walked away, and he won’t be needing it. And to make all the more cringey I’m thinking a set of these in red or white

We found a piece of plastic that was approximately the right size to serve as a temporary (and safe on the metal) shaft key to allow us to turn the crank and cams at the same time. Then, we measured the valve clearances - properly this time, when the lobes are perpendicular to the tappets. And I don't really know what I was stressing out about because fortunately everything measured in spec. The worst one is exhaust #6 which is still well within spec. Phew! Still can't find that fucking shaft key (PN 09421-04005) though

All seats are out, console and half of the dashboard is out. Had a great discussion with myself about how 17year old me knew nothing about tactical hole drilling when it came to wiring stereos etc. Older slightly wiser me on the other hand, will be doing a much nicer job. In another 10 years when it goes back together lol. Pic of classic early 2000s stereo components to follow Fusion 4in crossover and tweeter combo driven by Alpine cd tuner, was the goods for a long time. Rear was 6x9s of course! Quantity over quality was par for the course back then.

What im stoked with at this stage nothing is a pig to fit it bolts on like factory misses everything it needs too and is serviceable. Spark plugs won't be fun but also not terrible as most things are vband 20 seconds and the hotside is on the floor.

Wise words, cheers for the help. Any recommended contacts for around Taranaki?

Crossover pipe in and ready to go actually fits well gave me nightmares almost as much as the damn turbo drain. Feed and return oil lines to turbo also done.

More shit done today. Turbo drain welded on.......... in place on the car by someone who can't really weld alloy amazing, it's bloody on there took fucking ages and tools were thrown! But it's on. Tick!

Am in 2 minds of doing this. Many conflicting opinions about the motor’s longevity after governor delete. As it is with the governor, anyone can jump in and give it heaps with no fear on my part of it going pop. I can tighten the spring to increase revs / speed and still keep it within its limits while at the same time I still get wide open throttle up to that limit. Also bear in mind this has been an almost free build so far. Purchases to date include the chain, sprocket, brake and throttle cables.

Terrible video as promised. Filmed with my left hand, left hand also on brake duty’s so terrible braking as well. I also drove this to a local supplier to pick up stuff. There’s a video floating around somewhere of me high siding it, almost getting thrown out then crashing into their shop wall. Was fcuking hilarious. We then loaded it up with bearings and housings and hooned back to work. Got many thumbs up and a couple photos snapped while waiting in traffic at the train crossing. It’s such a hoot to drive.

Earlier in the week whilst I was checking fluids, I noticed that the brake reservoir was pretty low. On closer inspection there were signs of a fluid leak around the reservoir itself. Yikes, that's not good. I then lifted the front rubber mat and discovered another patch of brake fluid on the floor. Figured it was time to rebuild the master cylinder, so ordered a kit from Minisport in Adelaide. I always try to order a few parts at a time just to get the most bang for buck out of the shipping cost, so I also ordered a new set of bonnet straps as the existing ones were looking a bit dodgy. At $30 per bonnet strap the new ones were pretty spendy, but they are Australian made so I figured they would hold up in the local sun a lot better than their Pommy cousins. Last item included in the parcel was a new alternator to replace the ailing Lucas 16ACR unit which hasn't been charging properly for a few months. The alternator light would remain on for anything below about 2000 RPM, so I knew it was on its way. Parts arrived promptly and I cracked straight into the master cylinder rebuild. As you can see from the photo below the paint overspray on the parts are definite signs that the master cylinder was left in situ during the body restoration. Another sign of neglect was the perished dust boot. Stripped it down and gave it a good clean before closer inspection. Seals were hard and nasty looking. Bore was still perfect, but I gave the cylinder a light tickle with a bit of 1200 grit sandpaper anyway before lubing up the new seals and chucking them in. Replaced the seal on the reservoir at the same time. The master bled up easily which was a win. Next task was the alternator replacement. Again pretty straight forward. Minisport were out of stock on the drive belt, so I had to source a new one locally. Finished off by fitting the new bonnet straps and all is good in Moke world once more. Thanks for looking.

engage repair certifier before even contemplating a re-vin, if their is any doubt....... so many think they know the system, then spend mega-bucks on repairs. my project has some repairs, but appear cosmetic only and full chassis. repair certifier pretty kosha with everything