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Ah, probably not that then! Not sure you'd need an O2 sensor to be confident about pushing the timing forward a bit. Plenty of engines running with slightly advanced timing to no major harm. O2 sensor would let you dial that in though. If you want to get ambitious, I have it under good authority that 3.6l AJ6s are a set of ARP rod bolts (and presumably the appropriate regrind on the cams) away from 6500rpm

Here's my most recent one I've finished. Pretty happy with this one considering the basketcase I started with.

Yep, I've done a few projects that I haven't posted up.

The dirty bitch has bitten already, melted a wire, only off the kill switch, only in the middle of papakura.. mate came and helped push it off the road in to a carpark and wedged a piece of my work lanyard in to hold the wire in to get me home..

Sorry wouldn't have a clue. Was done a long time ago.

Was that one of Waterloo Diesels LD28 conversions ?

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster, son of Cazza and Duddley. Got my eye on a cressida in nelson and am seeking someone in the area to check it out for me, (as im in North Island). https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/toyota/cressida/listing/4954783240?bof=TIg9bU9Y please flick me a pm or text me on 021 525 381 if you can lend a hand. Chur Bro Evan

I run this one https://shop.nstparts.com/products/aem-high-flow-low-current-water-methanol-solenoid?variant=41514507665547&currency=NZD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmaO4BhAhEiwA5p4YL_d3r91Go1hpnSKtNPP256HULDzHjAgwLyuhwKxY8vJ_dwjXPoOPwhoCFrMQAvD_BwE

Took today off work and got a heap more sorted. Fuel tank, diff and mounts, all glass and all door insides are now removed. Rust repair cert has been arranged for next week, not looking too forward to the list but it will provide a good amount of direction for the panel beater and I. Few stripped screws causing some issue but nothing a drill won’t fix haha

Off topic but is that a t-bucket build going on to?

I don't hate it....I am a huge fan of turbos .. But odd stud pattern. So won't be buy anything else and got a set of 5

I prefer them on Tridens.

The 1st thing we did last year was strip the full camper stuff out as my wife was not stepping foot in it till it was. (She know the.mate who gave it to us..... and was not going in there. I gave away as much as I could and we still dumped over 300kgs of shag pile and shit).. Then its pretty much sat like this till last week.

Wagon is sitting a little lower in the front now and will settle down further, the reckons about another 20mm

No turbos sorry... Tridents

The day it was dug out

Very nice You forgot the photo with the turbos in view though..

So ive had this for while now... (about 5 years) Been sat out side mine now (under cover ) for a year or so. And be for that it was a mates bedroom inside his shed.... basically been dry stored since 2011 when the last LD28 died and he gave up on it. I got given this by him as a way of saying thanks for me painting his Valiant hearse .... twice (long fucking story). I didn't ask for anything in return.. but he knew I loved the thing and one day messaged me to say he had put it on my name .... I honestly never thought I'd get it but ..he asked me if I was home one night a year or so ago and dropped it off.. It is reg on hold , original black plates and certified for an ld28 auto. (Had no motor or box ). But all ready converted to a camper on the 80s with gold porn style shag pile carpet. This is how it had been for 12 + years

New shocks, springs, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and nolathane bushes all in the front end

Repost from spam: Replace the fuel pump the WOF man says, right, how hard can that be. Hmm, things are tight there, need to remove the power steering reservoir Oh the long capscrews that mount that also hold the water pump and coolant leaks when you remove them So, move the car out and drain the coolant. Now one of the long capscrews doesn't clear the water pump pully. Oh, to get that off I'm going to have to remove the radiator. Better take the battery and battery tray out first. Oh, need to remove the overflow reservoir to get to the radiator bolts The radiator retaining bolts are out except one, why won't it come out? Ah, there are some radiator bracket bolts that stop it lifting out, remove those. Now what? There is one retaining bolt that won't push back to provide clearance. Right, there are another five radiator bracket bolts, the heads of which prevent the radiator moving towards the engine. Unbolt those, after removing the two earth leads that are also connected which double nuts. Haul the radiator out with difficulty. Now I can remove the crank pully Now I can remove the PS reservoir, which leaks PS fluid on the floor. Now I can remove the fuel lines crammed in below the PS reservoir Now I can remove the fuel pump. Hmm, the carter one I got to replace it will work, but the body is smaller so I'll see if can get something better. Might as well replace the fuel lines and fuel filter as well. Radiator hoses probably need replacing. Better do the water pump bypass hose too. And better get some brakeclean spray. OK so got it back together, cleaned a few bits up in the process and managed to get some hoses that could be cut to work. This was still not the worst job.....

Wouldn't lowering it just give more clearance underneath?

Well the test drive showed a bunch of issues The cooling system The heater wasn't getting hot and was getting some high temps showing on the gauge as it turned out I had a huge airlock in it from draining everything out which lead to the discovery of the heater tap on the new motor was leaking. They are shit and all the repos also seem to leak so I just fitted the one off the old motor that is on all the time. The gauge was still showing hot now I had assumed the senders would be the same and I had put my thermocouple on the rad ect and it wasnt super hot so swapped the senders and low and behold its running the same as the old motor so thats fixed! The Carb Now it was running a bit average the first test drive and the second one was terrible, pulling the choke out seemed to smooth it out so I got the haynes manual out and got it running to roughly where the lift test works. I found a couple of issues also, the dashpot was low on oil and the float bowl lid had no gasket so it was leaking fuel onto the exhaust! so I swapped my old carbs lid on as I knew the float would be set correctly and took it for another road test and gave it a few 1,2,3 rips adjusting it a flat at a time till it felt ok I was still getting a bit of rough running so took it for a good hoon on the motorway and the back roads and it cleared up, im assuming that because it had been so rich that the plugs were fouled and now its running great. pulled a plug and looks good to me ! Some more adventures to come !

To the best of my knowledge the only vehicle manufactured in any significant quantity in New Zealand, as distinct from being assembled from CKD, was the Trekka.

Thx BlownCorona, will be interesting to see how similar the 2 cars are. Whilst reading through the whole thread, I noticed a few photos may ne missing. Also interested in how the new wheels went. I have a set of 13x10 and 13x9 i might try to fit for track days. Also, do u have links to any other Chevron 7 related stuff? There is virtually nothing on google i can see. Also, what kind of hardcopy stuff do you have for it? Was there every a build book etc for them? One day to pick up the beast.

Thank you for you reply, much appreciated. I understood that New Zealand manufactured the 400e rather than assembled kits. My number starts with a L and looking at the factory codes that denotes NZ. This may not be true of course! All the other bits of the number work to tell body type and year. This according to the parts book is from 1961? onwards from memory and changed again later. Is it correct that they were built in NZ? No other number I have found in England starts with a L always a B which means Dagenham. The English vehicles had a engraved number on the chassis rather than stamped which the plate is. Different design plate marked with engine number (which is the same as the chassis number) and model. 402E on mine denoting a petrol van. Has anybody a number starting with a L? Regards,Steve.