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Haha have i got a deal for you, will get you to 100mph easy.

Look a little somthing like this 🤨

Sides and tail gate made up and the first load on is mainly from the bathroom project. The next will be the old trailer chassis to the scrappy. Man it's going to be nice to just roll around the shed floor working on a car again.

Wow so much progress lately, including delivery of a new son! First up replaced the c5 corvette filter reg with a turbosmart return regulator. Added a gauge for a visual double check of what the ecu says. Took airbox to Mike Shaw fibreglass and discussed the plan. Agreed to put a but of work into flattening it out and remedying the errors in the 3d printing. Unsure if this is due to using petg, the company or the design - could be a combination of all 3. But unfortunately this has caused a huge amount of extra effort and will probably double the cost of the airbox too. Filled with foam, cut 10mm off the top where it was hitting the bonnet. Made a removable core so I could slip it over the trumpets once I’d filled with foam. I had a go at bogging it myself to varying levels of success. It got it maybe 30% of the way there. Mike Shaw will finish the rest of it. so oil pump from boundary in USA showed up. Pretty cool piece of gear. Came as a complete assembly with front cover, billet back plate and relief valve etc. pretty much the best solution for oil pressure I could find other than a mega expensive dry sump. Cut holes in bonnet for vents and working on sanding smooth and painting these stain black. Been working on ducting for power steering and oil coolers. Keen to get this finished off soon so I can get off to powdercoaters Some aluminium 3d printed parts showed up today. First is a retaining ring for the inside of the airbox. This is so I avoid needing to tighten 20x m4 nuts in a tight space where I’m likely to drop one and it end up inside the engine!! Pretty cool level of detail and strength in this part. Section is 8mm tall and 8mm wide for reference. Another cool piece of 3d printing is the strut brace tops. I made a few design changes to these to make them lower profile and a little stronger. I’ve actually made it too low profile and now it’s touching the rocker cover, so will need to figure out what mods I’ll do to solve this. Thinking I’ll take a section from the carbon tube at this stage. Can prob get a few mm from spacing the bosses before they hit the bonnet too. Love the design, looking forward to finishing this part off. got injectors cleaned and flow tested as we had a slightly lean plug on #1 cyl on dyno. Injectors checked out algood thankfully. Thinking it could be due to non-return rail and slightly different flow characteristics at the end of the rail. Drained gearbox oil and turns out there wasn’t much there maybe 2L or so. So i discovered I’ve had an oil leak and more than I expected must have disappeared. Unfortunately it is leaking from the Input shaft seal which is annoying as it’s complete gearbox disassembly to replace… So that will be a massive job I’ll put off for another day (maybe when I finally pull the trigger on a final drive kit from Thailand!) Also got some new Cv boots from Toyota to fit with hi temp grease. Slowly getting through the list to do before next dyno session. It’s doing a pretty good job of emptying my bank account as well, so looking forward to the finish line. Onwards and upwards, getting closer to being finished!

I think a 8hp would be mint, 260cc roughly. But that lifan is mint and it would rip in a ride on lawn mower

Update on this little beauty from the new owner. He's loving it. He's just got it a new COF, has got himself a truck licence and a TSL and is now in the process of tidying it up. New deck installed and he and his wife are currently stripping the old paint off it in preparation for new paint. I'm super happy it went to them and really glad to see it getting some love.

I got a speech the other day about it being louder than a harley going up and down the road. I think the last thing you'd ever want to copy is my POS. As for said POS, I have the dizzy out and stripped. Awaiting some part from the West Island. So they'll be here Monday next week or September. Not sure which one I prefer. Had this pop up in my memories today. The good old days when it wasn't the eternal project.

Yep, when you find a good wof guy stick with him. Even if it costs a little more you know you can trust him.

Quite annoyed that you just go slapping on a couple of hotdogs out back and your exhaust already sounds more boxer than mine... I might copy.

More exhaust tinkering. But first I decided to make some new front caliper brackets. The race car I first bought came with a set of 80's CRX sliding calipers and vented rotors. 231mm/17mm thick. They work really well. However the brackets they bolt to are only held on to the uprights with two of the original drum brake mounting holes. This is actually the way many of the disc brake conversions sold for imps over the years are done but I've never been super happy with it. The holes they mount through are spot faced and quite close to the edge. My fear (yes possibly a bit paranoid but) is that the casting could break and the caliper bracket get pulled away under heavy braking, jamming the caliper in the rim and locking the wheel. You can see the setup in this pick I took not long after getting the race imp... There is better, more fail safe way to do it using all three mounting bolts, which is also stiffer and also modular. I bought some 10mm steel flat and got to work. Drilled and bored the centre hole to exactly match the axle size.. This way the brackets will always sit perfectly central and even if all three bolts let go (is a very super paranoid way) the bracket would still stay in place concentrically. I didn't take many photos of the build, a process that ended up taking way longer then I expected but hey, that's car projects. Here's the bits on the bench as I'm measuring out and marking etc etc.. The finished parts before paint... Only down side is the extra 380 grams of unsprung weight per side However, on the plus side I do get to inform the various Hillman Imp doomsayer Barries out there that I have added more weight to the front of my car so I wont end up in a hedge next time I attempt to corner it I shimmed them up to suit ( for the final install the bolts are reversed and lock washers install btw) Test drove and its all good. I really need some new pads though because old pads are worn to suit the old brackets which I had noted were slightly bent. The new setup is far stiffer. The original pads are rock hard anyway and have always really only start to bite once there's some heat in them. Keen on suggestions of pad brands to try within NZ. The basic TWR ones from Repco always seem to work fine though so I'll go that way first. Luckily these discs, calipers and pads are all still readily available new and cheaply. I think they are used on many different earlier Civics and CRXs which helps. Stuff from Rock auto is insanely cheap for example. Next up was my ongoing exhaust sound experiments. Upon suggestion from one of the fellas on a 911 forum I cut the box open and added a deflector to help flow. Here's another exceptionally well drawn image showing the science behind my modification... The red arrows show the exhaust gas flow. Now please humour me and lets just pretend its flowing like a lovely consistent river of lava. As it flows out from the exit it will follow the curve around and into the bellmouth of the next pipe which shoots in a straight line through the silencer and out via the tailpipe. There will of course could be pressure pulses created by the tail pipe exit so if they come back they, as depicted in yellow, should create a vortex, do a perfect swirly thing and get pulled back into the pipe. In theory. I welded a lid over my master piece of fluid dynamics and then cut open another bit of the box. This time I filled the cavity around the perforated tube. I'm hoping it might quell some of the 'hollow cackle reverberation' sounds. It didn't. After welding a lid back on, splashing some paint around I took the car for a hoon. Its certainly quieter and from my seat of pants o'meter I think my gas flow mastery has added at least 1 small pony into the mix. But there is still an annoying reverb sound at around 2700rpm (which happens to be around the 100kph area in 5th) I think I know the cause. Its the exhaust pulses in the lower chamber matching each other. In fact Wikipedia has a section with more detail on this... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humming So with that result my continued experimentation will continue.

I reckon rev it till you blow the oil filter off

doesnt even sound like 9k. wants moar!

lol you arent ever going to fix that problem. some wof guys are just cunts for the sake of it. just like plumbers and civil engineers and everyone else can be. my last wof, the guy said i needed cert because i have 20" wheels. Even though the rolling circumferece is within the standard tyre rolling size withing 5% per the rules, no clearance issues etc. he was just plain wrong.

Nah the WOF guy being a dick is a separate problem to the car being dodgy. It was more a comment on the anxiety of going for a WOF and knowing that different things pass and fail based on whether they got laid in the morning. Case in point the lack of sun visors on my uncle's MG Roadster that we take for WOFs. Sometimes it fails for not having sun visors (which they never had) and sometimes it's fine, but when it fails it's a whole argument that usually has to be escalated to the owner of the business who 10 times out of 10 tells the guy doing the WOF to pull his head in. I understand wanting to cover your arse, but the inconsistency really gets me. Plus my brother's Surf has just been through a WOF and a wheel alignment with what turned out to be 2mm of play in a bottom balljoint that was completely missed by the WOF and alignment guy and we diagnosed in the driveway at home within two minutes. So I'm a little salty at shit service.

Stumbled across some old Korean videos on YouTube Might need to re index the torsion bars in the front and find some shorter springs for the rear

The problem is not the wof guy being a dick, it's more like the wof guy doesn't want to take ownership of your problem for $80 or whatever a wof costs. Example I've got a customer who gave a car a wof, and it had different size wheels to what the cert said, he blind eyed it because they knew each other, and he was keeping the car etc etc The car then got sold for quite a lot of money The new owner picked up the fact it wasn't certed for the wheels, and wanted it to match The seller of the car put it back on the wof guy, who got me to re cert it, which is when the problems started It wouldn't pass cert due to the wheels rubbing on the body, plus someone had ground the calipers to fit the wheels, so it needed a new pair of rear calipers, and a new set of wheels with the right offset, and the guy who had purchased the car wanted the same wheels, which were quite expensive In the end that wof inspection cost that shop about 10k This is the worst case I've seen, but the same situation happens regularly, where the owner is stoked they got a wof or cert, the buyer of a car doesn't like the car or finds things to pick on, then start pointing fingers at previous inspectors for $$ This is made 10x worse when the vehicle ends up at the other end of the country, because there's no easy way of fixing it without paying someone else to do the work TL;DR =have to stick to the rules to avoid problems later

Magnesium is fine to machine. Main thing is to keep the swarf dry

More just concerned and hypervigilant at the moment, listening out for creaks bangs and so on. and trying to dial fuel in and so on. It's enjoyable to watch the video though haha. One thing I learned yesterday. If you are revving up your car in the garage. Try not to hit an ignition only rev limiter, if you want to avoid spraying fuel everywhere

A little bog and some yellow paint and the grooves are gone, if they're set to their lowest then no one knows which other grooves are on there

Have a read of Muncie's V-Twin scooter build thread for inspiration.

not enough POWER!!

Watching the 9k rev video at smoko and I can't help grinning like an idiot. You must be positively fizzing at the bunghole from the driver's seat.

Haven't touched this for a little while but I got some time in the last couple days. I finally got both new gearbox output shaft seals. Fitted those (lh side was a prick due to lack of space to punch it in, wish I did this with the box out. Rh side was a piece of cake though). Also reassembled the hubs, steering, suspension and brake parts. Got the rest of the hoses, plugs, brackets, battery box, battery, front bar etc in. i had to extend the wiring for the throttle body and this intake sensor (map sensor I think). Also had to clearance the fan shroud a little more for the throttle body sensor. I'm not overly proud of how the throttle body harness section looks. I had to run thicker gauge wiring and only had smaller split conduit so had to run half the wiring across 2 sections so it looks stupid. Oh well, it will do for now. And the engine cover still kind of fits. Looks oem enough anyway. My situation over here has changed and we are now in the process of selling our home to come back to NZ. This will be up for sale in Perth shortly so there's only a few little bits I'll do before then. Another incomplete project but hey, hopefully I'll have some spare change to throw at my mazda when I get back. Chur

I bought a 3" Adrenaline R muffler, and I've been hoping that just 1x muffler will be sufficient. So welded a flange on and bolted it up to the end of the 2-1 section to test it out before committing. I'd say its probably still a weeee bit too loud (Still need earmuffs on when it revs out) So I'll have to try stuff something else in there too. This one was filmed with the camera bit further back, and the audio recording level turned down so it wasnt clipping. In person it's still ear splittingly loud. Currently the ignition timing is all very conservative, as I'm not sure what the motor is going to like with port injection and the 12:1 compression. Overly delayed ignition timing means more exhaust energy (noise) comes out the back. So it will quiet down a bit as the timing gets dialled in. Currently there's no VVT advance happening, everything is just at home positions. So from experience the intake starts getting a LOT LOT louder when you start introducing some overlap. As much as I do love some incredibly obnoxious intake noise. If it's so loud that it's melting my brain. Will need to make an airbox to calm it down a bit. Ha. I am still chasing an issue (by which I mean I havent investigated it yet) where the reported voltage to the ECU drops off, when the rpm goes up. I am suspecting this relates to a bottleneck at my fuse/relay box. So will do some troubleshooting. I have officially run it to the 9k mark now, and valvetrain has survived. Haha. So hopefully a bit more left in it yet. It feels tantalizingly close to being drivable! I need to make some heat shields in quite a few places. As there is a huge % of the engine bay that is line of sight to the radiant heat emitting from the exhaust manifolds. This video is probably a fairly good representation of how the car will sound when it's finished and driving.

I've never heard of Bilstein or Koni shocks not passed with perch sitting on a single circlip groove in all my decades in hondas. Always easy to argue both brands are able to be sourced from repco etc as OEM replacements. I've heard of people failing when there's multiple grooves as those are not OEM grooves and there's concerns over if that was suitable, and I've also heard of Wofs being a visual inspection and electrical tape strategically used 🤭 Hondas have different perch heights too, like the DA Integra one is flat perch because it's longer spring and EF civic is a 1.5 inch tall cup perch. So me swapping out the DA perch onto my factory EF shocks lowered my car by 1.5 inches. Was it legal? Dunno. Do I continue to be a degenerate? Yes