All Activity

giz a ride? can we do that?

SsangYong Mussos used the T5 in RWD utes too, can be had for around a grand if you look around. No idea if they changed the spines or anything for SsangYong use though.

My wof guy tried for years to buy my manual coon to strip the gearbox out of it for a spare for his racecar. Reckoned they're getting hard to find.

This years plan: -Attendance -Exhaust not sound shit -Hoosiers -flat shifting and launch control setup -10k rpm -Send it (possibly to Valhalla)

/I've never bought one so I don't actually know *results may vary

Aren't t5s like a $2.5k gearbox?

What about the T5's? I say that because there seem to be a billion of them and they all come with yokes, clutch, tailshafts due to everybody having dreams of converting their VP commy and then realising it's a VP commy.

FYI, throttling a centrifugal pump reduces the load on the motor. I use this technique to get away with running a 10kw motor on a cable thats only good for 6kw...

An r154 is a pretty big gearbox You won't break a w58 with a aj6 in a road car You'd be pretty safe putting 350hp through one before it has issues

I decided I couldn't be bothered, sold the gearbox, bellhousing, and car. I always liked my VG better so I kept that.

So yeah...... got bored did a turbo conversion. Intercooler powder coating looked like a urinal after a year in weather so got the dulux recon. Added 2 additional oil pressure gauges in engine bay oil main pressure and turbo reguator pressure so i can keep an eye on the filters in turbo feed (2 filters) good to see im back to having 40psi at idle for some reason it dropped Naturally Aspirated to mid 20s. Took about 2 hours all up to refit everything bumper off etc find all associated bits bolt on then nip up leaks. Had a few AN line leaks they just needed reseating and seemed happy. Has a base map in it at moment only 8 degrees of timing as boost ramps in by 2500rpm rising to 12 degrees at about 4500rpm than just rides out 12 to 6000rpm rev limit. Definitely some room to make that more punchy but a conservative start is good it still boogies! Even on 8psi. Cautious about using the high stall from stationary yet but she lights off the turbo instantly if you stab it transient response is great.

I pulled the rusty piece off to see what fun times lay beneath . Not toooo bad but there's a bit of work to do. I welded the first two pieces together then set about making the channel that the seal glues into. I've made pieces of this channel before but never this long and deff never in one piece. This is one thousand percent the most difficult piece I've ever made. It's a channel but more of a retarded V shape than a U shape and is curved in both directions and the curves tighten at the ends. It fits Perfectly. Fuck I'm so happy to get this right. I'm going to have a celobrateobeer and bask in the glory until tomorrow when I fuck it up.

Car still with autosparky. It sadly wont be making it down as planned.

And damn right i printed off the page from customs nz stating i have no duty to pay for the invoiced amount. Actually i added 15% to the amount to allow for error, and it still said clear $0 fees. So bonus.

Ordered the panel pieces out of aus, lets see how bent the arrive... Rear inner and outer lower quarter panels, new taillight panel, and a 60cm section of preformed A pillar skin to hopefully do both sides.

@Valiant doing some searching I found you asking the hard questions about a manual swap years ago. Whatever happened to that adventure?

Fair enough. Was gonna say if you needed it stored i have grass behind the shed that could use a frostcover lol

In Auckland. I have to head up north to get that engine in the next month so could have dragged the car trailer but cbf'd filling the shed with more shit. All guns will be pointing at finding a gearbag now.

Where was it? I just spotted a no wof 1999 xjs on the tard....

I think the adapter route youre doing should work fine as a torque converter is pretty chunky so you'll have space. About all Ill save with the manual bellhousing is possibly time on slave/fork faffing about. I'll just use the stock ECU and try and get it running. I do know where there is a manual ECU but allegedly it is one byte difference and it's on the automatic off throttle over run. I don't care enough to worry about that but if I did, I'd probably send one to AJ6 engineering to have reflashed or whatever they do. I really enjoyed my old XJS 4.0 so I cant imagine wanting to try and hot it up but a blower and a custom ECU (Link?) would be the way to go. But I'm years off that yet. I may end up making extractors but rather than for HP gains it'll be steering column clearance related. I nearly bought this for $500 which had everything but the gearbox but was too hard to get it home. Would have pinched the manual ECU, mounts and exhaust then put the engine on the parts rack.

That's a bit dark.

Mmmmm sleepy time bubble bath 🫣

I have a 4HP22 automatic. I did not know this was remotely feasible. I'm thinking it wouldn't make a manual conversion without a donor car much easier though. I grabbed an ECU from a 3.6 XJ40, and it worked in my XJ-S. I doubt that the XJ40 just happened to be a Japanese import. I've seen stuff online about hotting up a 3.6 AJ6: People use an 'Andy bracket' to reposition the crank angle sensor for more ignition advance on the stock ECU. You can fit the larger airflow meter and throttle body from a 4.0 car. A resistor is inserted so the stock ECU sees the same reading from the 4.0 AFM as it got from the 3.6 AFM, though the value of this resistor is proprietary information. They make extractors for the AJ6 overseas, but they'd be very expensive by the time they landed here.

Wof fail, boo On the bright side, thats quite possibly the best ever brake balance result for this car! But fail on 4 simple things, some engine bay wiring was taking the piss on lack of restraint, exhaust hanger bolt loose, brake hardlines needing grommets where they pass through the body and front wheel alignment. All 4 were about 30min after work to sort out, wheel alignment was just with stringlines for now, I initially set it up as it came apart but was excessively toe in, that with the mud tyres made quite a noise on the wof station floor! I do need to machine up some shims in preparation for caster and camber, it can't be too far off as so far handles as I remember. On the list to fully assess, stay tuned as they say. With all that down a return to the testing station yielded that small sticker of dopamine Warm fuzzy feels, darn cool to have the old thing back on the road! No rest and straight to work, trailer of greenwaste to the dump and back via the hardware store, good laugh at the rally mudflaps, wasn't sure where to trim them so put them on straight out of the pack, with a bootload of supplies they were dragging a bit too much. Must trim before the first offroad trip... The cold weather is making starting a bit of a challenge, either need to sort out a choke linkage or wait a few weeks, a good chance here to prove the value of procrastination. Another current issue is a bit rough running at 50-60kph cruise, likely an air leak on the carbs so set up the CNC to cut out some new gaskets with a drag knike and will investigate when I next get some shed time.

Haven't done fuck all on this thing for awhile, haven't needed to!! Apart from what turned out to be a lose fuel pipe it been pretty reliable. I did balance the carbs again, which made a huge difference as it would stall at the lights.