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  2. Over the red line on tach so 6500rpm maybe a little more. One thing that just popped into my head is the car has massive wheels with sticky tyres if I built a small angry engine I'd probably snap cranks if it wasn't auto.
  3. Even if i was a casting master, and i know absolutely nothing about it. There would be no benefit if current pistons are at the strength limit of cast material without forging. And there's no way to DIY forging as best I know. Machined from billet might be an option, or see if anyone sells unmachined forged blanks that are close enough. However I'm also not sure how much stronger billet would be.
  4. Looking at dialing out some bump steer from my set up, looks like the best was to do so is to go to rose jointed arms. Rather than drilling our the steering arm and using a straight bolt I’m looking to have a new pin made to match the OEM steering arm and taper. I’m looking through the information sheet https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2020_Spherical_Bearing_Rod_End_Conversion.pdf The minimum sizes quoted are larger than the OEM specs I was hoping to replicate I.e. taper is 1/2” vs 16mm- is there any wriggle room with the diameters quoted in the information sheet?
  5. Cheers I'll just let him take care of it.
  6. Today
  7. That’s kind of what I’m getting at. The Bilstein struts and coilovers would have the same steering arm attached in the same way right? The replacement struts are fine for wof, but should I try to cert the car for something else they fail due to the construction?
  8. What did that rev to? Being able to rev the piss out of something can make a decent difference haha
  9. Becaue everyone likes pics of honda stuff here's some more Grabbed some dowls from work that actually fit Borrowed the 14mm hex of the neighbor and put in the an fitting into the block so I'll actually have a chance at pcv stuff. Next time I'm at lockup I'll grab a catch can and see if it'll fit
  10. Bilstein do replacement struts and koni do inserts. As I understand the issue is from the steering arm being welded (and cast) on the majority of aftermarket coilovers.
  11. Not oldschool but I've never actually seen confirmation on this. DC5 Integra / EP3 Civic front shocks. I know these chassis suffer from serious bumpsteer when lowered, but that shouldn't apply when retaining the stock height. They have a pickup for the tie rods on the shock itself as seen here. (Not a great pic) I've read that this is the issue with aftermarket coilovers. However i'm not sure why, is it to do with materials, angles, both? A few companies still make shocks & full adjustable coilovers for them, and while I can kinda understand why the usual Taiwanese suspects aren't given a pass, surely a company like Bilstein can be trusted to build something to a standard at least as good as the OEM? Their offering seen here. Would something like Bilstein or KW actually fail to meet the requirements, or is it a matter of everyone wanting cheap & cheerful? As a side note, Tein, Bilstein & historically others have made OE replacement shocks for these chassis. Am I correct in assuming that these will pass a legit wof because they are OE level replacements? And that the issue comes in at cert time due to an LVVTA rule? Surely something from any of these reputable brands would be better off than the generic £80 replacements I've found out of the UK which I also believe would be perfectly legal here? I'm looking at picking up a civic and I've noticed that front shocks have been discontinued by Honda so I don't want to find myself in a position where I'm caught out with blown shocks and no real upgrade path.
  12. My best 1/4 with boost wound up on an L67 3.8v6 was 15.1 It's extremely sad that a 1nzfe (in theory) could probably push the same car faster. Fuck......
  13. Yeah your car is literally twice as heavy as anything that suits a 1.5 litre engine hahaha. But cos it's a laugh, here we are. Alright so this is all of the above data, no weights changed but just engines swapped. Still auto trans and a 3.3 final drive. NA 1NZFE, since this is the least suitable option I'm assuming it's doorty so 160hp @ 8000rpm with 9000 limiter. Turbo 1NZFE 300hp @ 8000, 9000rpm limit NA K24A is the best standard power version, 204hp 7600 limiter Turbo K24A is 300hp @ 7000rpm 7600 limiter If you want to try any of these numbers a bit different, let me know
  14. I'm guessing that they don't last because you are flogging out the holes as it's used over and over?
  15. @Romanmaybe you could look into forging your own pistons like Burt Munro? "They were hand-cast using sand from local beaches in a variety of receptacles, including tin cans. They were then painstakingly finished with file and lathe,” Pretty sure you could improve on that with some 3dprints etc for molds Break up some broken pistons to melt down etc
  16. what size flat bar are you usually using? aircraft spruce has 4130 steel strips but the biggest/thickest is 1-1/4x.250 in peanut measurements. Thats roughly 32mmx6mm. I will probably be buying some stuff from them soon if the shipping is to much to justify. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130strips.php
  17. Whilst the blue panniers were a great addition theyre just too brittle and small parts kept breaking off after every ride. So I bit the bullet and decided to start making some from steel. To start with I made some channel out of 18g with a slight radius, not a breaked edge. Then I had to modify my shrinker stretcher stand as once I got to certain point it would hit the stretcher stand upright. so I moved them apart . Using the shrinker I incrementally started shrinking the sides. Shrinking one side then the other so they'd both be the same. One end is 90 and the other is just under. Next is to make the sides and get them welded in
  18. Not a huge update but slowly chipping away at dads ST whilst waiting for my engine to arrive from overseas. In the meantime Ive reinstalled the original engine so to stop me from tripping over it everytime I walk past it, and also make it easier to move when I move house end of July. Swingarm is painted satin black to match the guard. The tool holder was stripped and painted too.
  19. In further suspension fiddling I sourced a pair of these rear springs that are 20mm shorter than the current mx73 bc short ones and a dual spring rate.
  20. Tried them with another 14" A type wheel and they will work as long as tyre isn't bulging past the rim. Saw these pop up and grabbed them since I haven't seen them before. They are an uncommon 14" work equip mesh Each of the hex head bolts are engraved with 'work' And they have pretty cool black valve stems/caps. These will be widened to a 9/10J stagger as the potenza tr-3 were. I've managed to get a pair of 225/40 toyo t1r to try on and see how they work with the rear flares.
  21. Just after morning smoko the courier pitched up with my 2 inch lowering kit for the rear axle. Much excite. Unpacked the parcel and ....... instant fail. Not sure what this kit is for, but it's definitely not for a 66 Mustang. Absolutely nothing fits. Just waiting to hear back from the supplier.
  22. I did a bit of work on this a few months back to try get a warrant and fine tune some suspension bits but it didn't really pan out so it's just been sitting. I also sold the Bridgestone tr-3 to a friend who needed something quick to build his car around. Purchased some of these beams! 40mm roll centre adjusters from Australia Stuck them in and went for a drive and heard a horrible grinding It was clarencing the wheel weight on
  23. Spent the morning fitting the glass and winder mechanism into the driver's door. Wow, what a difference the refurbished winder mechanism makes. Smooth as silk. Cracked out the new weather strips and door seal and fitted those too. Final step was to fit the interior door panel and related bling. And, that's the driver's door ready to rock and roll.
  24. I'm thinking, that since you have blown out both sides of the block, the rod was still attached to the crank when it went for a flail. So I'm guessing that the piston was the first to fail.
  25. Usually just swap them out bro. I've never replaced the bearings besides on a cat skidsteer that had this oddball setup that was grease one side and oil on the other.
  26. @johnny.racebottom ones. There's one good one from 8, 3 have side play and 4 are complete toast. The grenaded ones have the remains of bearing races in them, not sure if they're salvageable. Bought the digger off a mate and he said he'll sort them for me. I don't mind rebuilding them if I can else I'll just let him sort it.
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