All Activity

I'm not so sure about this. BTCC were heavily restricted with their aero and the cars weren't allowed extra vents. If they were allowed, you can almost bet they'd be venting out the top. Look at less restricted classes to see how they do it. LMP1/Hypercar, FIA GT3, Porsche cup, TCR and Time Attack all vent out the top. You can't tell me they wouldn't be venting all their air out the sides of the bumper if it was an advantage. They're also really hot looking vents tbh. Also FYI, chat GPT doesn't know the truth (yet).

The front shocks are barely functional so in the interest of having some sort of vehicle control I figured I'd replace them. After a few hours cross referencing various catalogues it appears Nissan D21 are a match/close fit. Ripco had some d21 shocks on clearance for 40 each so I gambled and ordered a couple. Will install them when it's not raining so much. I ordered a steering wheel repair kit for $2 from the same clearance section. I generally despise steering wheel covers but I hate flaking off foam more

Man for the flashness of that car, the wheels are gross! Straight off someones uncles commodore. Hope they don't permanently live on that car?

Here’s one for the too-hard basket — but if I’d learned more about aerodynamics earlier, I would’ve realised that directing radiator exit air either ahead of or behind the front wheel wells is a much smarter choice than venting it out the bonnet. As it's a more efficient way to manage airflow. Inspired by BTCC setups, a V-mounted dual-pass radiator could help make this geometry work. It allows better airflow through the radiator and cleaner, more aerodynamically effective exit paths — either through the quarter panels or into the wheel arches — without creating lift or disrupting the flow over the top of the car. Of course, it sounds simple… how hard could it be, right?!* *Thanks ChatGPT for turning my rambling into something another human can decipher..

My 2c would be use the Ali housing and genuine pins for power stuff(sensors I'd send it with alix pins) . Seen the Ali pins etc not be tight enough for higher currents and get a bit melty

Yeah cheers. I went with the one from Palmside. Have ordered from them before and am always shocked at how fast the get stuff out the door. I'll keep an eye on the spring too cheers.

was going to suggest an escort type place would. on searching, palmside stock a rebuild kit. Weber DGAV/DGV Parts – Palmside NZ lols he is half the price of the weber specialties. murray is such a cock repair-kits-weber

sorry im not aware of any other parts that will work (not saying there arnt any) I used the pedal assembly from a manual 13x series crown wagon. early on i had a celica xx / aa60 pedal assembly that i thought i might use but i never even offered it up as i found the genuine unit ex japan.

yep that is the accelerator pump and the diaphragm always shits its self when it dries out for a while. try murray at weber specialties, he may be able to send u a new one. i'm not sure who else has them but more than likely a decent performance shop near u could order them, id say good luck with the likes of ripco / stupid and cheap edit: tip is to remember which wat the spring goes, some are tapered springs and some are straight and get it on the right side of the diaphragm. LOL its a very simple job.

Hi All, Blew the dust off a weber carb for the Imp and after hacking away the firewall it has a leak when running. Does anybody know what this part is and how to fix it? Google suggests an accelerator pump/diaphragm. Will buy a gasket kit anyway and have a rummage but if anybody has any tips it would be appreciated.

Got sticky repairing the lower corners of the URAS bumper last night. After scheming different ways to do it, I ended up going the simple way and threw masking tape on from the outside to get the shape, then covered that with packing tape for structural integrity. Couple of layers of glass from the inside and some patches on my flares where the screw holes blew out: And it looked like this when I peeled the tape this morning: There's a couple of dry spots in the glass (access to that corner was tight), but it's good enough to clean up and get it looking straight. We have another AE86 project at work at the mo, so we'll get this bumper straight enough to take a mould off.

I just used Ali ones and they have been fine so far. But I cant give commentary on if they stand the test of time or whatever. However the crimp terminals have all been nice.

These are the shit, I have two in my Corolla, one replacing the engine bay fuse/relay box and one specifically for the ECU under the dash.

Do you have a known good supplier or are the aliexpress connectors ok?

I quite like the Sumitomo plugs, just google "Sumitomo 12 way connector" or whatever and heaps of things come up. Have used these to make sub looms on mine.

Thats awesome, you'll have to get it in good nic and bring it up for a ride 😀

That's the same colour as one of mine that I rode in the mid 90s. It's still hanging in one of the sheds at my parents' place.

I was off work for a few days following some minor surgery. thought I'd work on the car. Inside the bumper was all rusty and scaly , wire wheeled that off with the grinder and blew some black paint at the insides and all the brackets. sadly that's all I have , but bumper is now back on the front of the car. However......... so those of you who have followed from the beginning will remember that the engine that resides between the chassis rails in the car was a rebuilt unit that was built and then possibly/potentially stored before I got it. because my OG donk shat a piston ( still have that by the way) Anyways I got the AFR gauge to determine my idle mixture as I wasn't having any luck with the vacuum gauge method. now I've done my due diligence, the entire ignition system is pretty much new and it works Carb is also reco'd and functional. even with the idle mixture running at 14.2-14.7 the vacuum signal is only reading a steady 13. definitely too low . I suspect it's incorrect valve timing which would make sense as the internals are new ish and have barely done 5000k since I dropped the engine in. All it's bad idling ( I just thought it had a lumpy cam) it's stumbling and that stranding incident. it all kind of makes sense now. compression test came back at 115-120psi all round, also too low. anyways, next job is to pull the engine all apart and check the valve timing on a cam I have no clue what its specs are . I did find a video on YouTube from Uncle Tony's garage about using the Keith Black method to determine whether it's timed correctly. anyways for now I'll leave it there as I'm going to take a break from it until next month while I gather some parts and Tools.

The Raleigh metro has 22s but the raleigh 20 is what I want bmx wheels for

@UTERUS Just browsing the search options and came across this thread. Did you manage to get this build together?

They look like 22" wheels on that? But then again my sight isn't what it used to be..

Thread revival, have decided based on other reading milspec bulkhead connectors aren't worth the effort/cost and to just have a grommet I can pull loom plugs through etc However been thinking about injector/coil looms that can be detached from the main engine loom Does anyone have a recommendation on a male/female plug kit with pins? Injectors 9 or 10 pin plug (1x12awg power split to 8x22awg, 8x22awg switched ground) allows for staged injectors 5 pin plug (1x12awg power split to 4x22awg, 4x22awg switched ground) and id wire two up and have two 4x injector looms so it doesn't need to be plugged in to start Coilpacks 6pin (12awg power split into 4 x 20awg, 1x12awg gnd wired to head split to 4x 20awg, 4x20awg signals from ecu)

I noticed a generous oil stain and rainbow puddle today. Figured I'd have a quick look. Bloody Delphi oil pressure switch was pissing oil out more than the original one. Luckily I fucked up and ordered two sensors (different brands) so swapped that out Wacked my head on the boot one too many times and got pissed off with the sagged rear springs. Luckily for me the warehouse had some musso spec air assist springs in stock Installed the air assist bags and inflated as per manufacturer instructions Couldn't find my tape measure so used the very accurate finger gauge Before And after So a solid two finger lift for a total of $36. And I can stand under the boot now so I'll call that a win. Have just turned off the interior light for now and will fix it later

Arc too Makes 4