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Singular use of "head" Is it a 202?

I have a JAG IRS XJ6 diff in my Ford, I dont know the year but I got flax around the driveshaft and now the pinion seal is leaking, someone was saying mark the nut and the shaft and do the nut up till your marks line up but others say they are set with shims and just crank the nut up, any Jag experts here?

Medium singlet for me plz bizzo xx

This is what they say on the Hondata site which maybe what you are referring to with the speed input. Transmission Issues Any K-series engine can be used with K-Pro in an engine swap. But the transmission will need to be from an 02-04. Using an 05-06 transmission will mean that the speedometer will not work, and VTEC will not engage. You must use the 02-04 engine harness and oxygen sensor. The Toyota trans must use something similar as there is no cable drive, but if it can be used to talk to the Honda ecu is another story. I haven't had much luck googling what others have done. A lot of transplants are either front wheel drive so they use the Honda trans and the rear wheel drive cars have been a much more modern car. The K power site has wiring looms for rwd set ups for MX5 but they are extremely expensive and it looks like you have to use a different ecu as well. I will keep looking but I think the info on the Hondata site is probably the best as long as it doesn't only relate to using their ecu's.

Like I said the fuel system has taken a different direction. I sent a pic to my certifier of the location of where I was going to mount the surge tank and he said it would be better to put an electric in tank pump and swirl pot in the tank. Saves having to have the surge tank mounting sealing etc, meet all the LVVTA regs. So as suggested earlier I bit the bullet and attacked the fuel tank. I was a bit reluctant to do so as I had already cleaned and sealed it, but it is still going to work out ok and not damage the coating by the look. I made up a circular plate out of 3mm to mount the pump and fuel gauge sender into. Then cut the hole into the top of the tank where the sender sat. The tank has 3 sections so really it already has baffles to hold the fuel in the fuel outlet area when cornering. I made up two more baffle plates and have fitted them into the tank with pop rivets to hold fuel in around the pump pick up will be for braking and acceleration as well. It is not sealed to the tank floor so fuel can still escape under it but it is quite close so I think it will hold the fuel there for long enough.

1 x size large for me please, cash on pick up, would trade again, yep.

So got the wagon back from compliance and with a long list of things to get sorted. Brakes all need to be done including brake lines. Suspension and bushes need sorting. Need to replace the seat belts. Exhaust needs fixing. Rust in bodywork

Put me down for a meedyum tee please. @alfalfa and I will probably day trip the Saturday.

Printed by craftcloud3d website. I havent had the rails machined yet, as Dad's CNC is out of action. However we have a tool path already loaded into it as we did my other fuel rails on same machine the same way. I undersized the injector holes by 2mm so I can them machined to the correct diameter. Then same for the fuel feed at the back of the rails.

One flat flange falcon driveshaft. Yoke is for bw35-51, single rail etc but is ugly.

Thought this was relevant

awesome man. Who are you using for printing? with those fuel rails did you ream the o ring seat ?

Am I able to replace that lower bumper support section with a bit of box section? Or does it have to be oem? And what's the deal with trimming /making existing holes bigger. And would using intercooler to replace the vertical bonnet catch section be okay

Pretty stoked to receive sea-freight for the first time since March Whilst I've been 'waiting' I decided to start cutting ground for an orchard. I don't even like fruit, but I do like earthworks with a classic machine. There's only a very thin layer of organic matter over the sand so I need to be careful, but I know a guy with a woolshed full of sheep shit. I'll offer him some free removal once his land is dry enough to work over. Bad photos because rain and broken phone. Oh well. Oh, and also a few hours to backfill the footings for the deck. It's a ring foundation kind of thing which will have a concrete pavement.. and although it may seem odd to build the deck first on a 24 hectare site - the access (and my love of the wee stunted trees) means I have to pour the deck before the house pad.

Custom suspension arms also require TAC approval.

Bugger.

Hate to say it but I'm going to have to bail on this.

Unbuilt mk1 manifold Did what I thought about the first time and made some brackets to hold the flange in position where the turbo (just) clears everything Fitted to the other motor as its easier to work on Sat the nice sinco collector on and there's no way that's fitting without lots of butchery Figured I'd try a little mini ram style manifold I'll need to make bit of a ugly collector but if log manifolds work and make power a less than perfect collector will also be okay Realised at the end of the day there's no rocker cover gasket so I've probably filled the head with schmutz Intercooler arrived and mostly fits. I'll have to stop being precious and will need to trim a bit of the bumper. One end tank will need to be modified but I'll see what angle I can get away with clocking the housing

The oem ecu for sure will require a speed input to be happy. I know someone with an f20c in an escort running a stock ecu. There was a guy in the uk maybe that modifies the looms and turns it into something like a 6 or 7 wire install of the factory ecu /loom. He runs a dirveshaft pickup for speed reference which seems to do the trick. I assume the f20c and k20 won't be hugely different as far as wiring configuration goes, well accept for obvious oem orientation..

Then Sunday did the open series race with equally pleasing results. 3rd place after a great battle with Rimfire. We had our yellow gennaker up because I didn't feel comfortable getting a spinnaker up with how little experience the crew had on this boat. In hindsight, should've just licked the stamp and sent it. It felt good this time because it was a lack of crew skill and tactics that cost us the most time - rather than having everything trimmed as good as we could and still watching boats we should be competitive with sail past us. Got a couple other small upgrades going on which i'll detail next time on BOAT STORIES.

Had the lift out And wash down Wasn't that bad in my opinion.... but that's not bad for a cruising boat. For racing - that amount of slime seems to have cost us about 0.8-1.0 knot of speed. Which when you're only doing 7ish knots is a fair percentage penalty. Also managed to confirm the 2.3m draft and got an approximate weight thats close enough to the data sheet. So yeah, the haul out was good. No nasty surprises. A couple of bare patches from where the props were placed the last time it was painted, and a couple bare patches on the keel where we might have found the bottom of the harbour. The 2 handed race was immediately after the wash down - 3rd place and VERY close to beating La Vida for 2nd

Mmmmm, it always feels cluttered though, despite the big cleans ups and shuffling things round. doesn’t help having 2 ute projects blown apart aswell as a cortina getting panel prepped. wish I could actually stick with one project at a time. cortina should be painted on Sunday hopefully then I will focus on wiring for one of the utes, then my hubs and brakes should be done so I can finish the bag mounts.

A bit more progress on the headers. With the engine back in the car the header as I had it was not going to work of fit even. There just is not enough space to get the tubes down in front of the engine mount. I had to re-design it with two in front and two behind. Still not a lot of room for them at that. They are going to have to have long primary tubes before I merge them 2 into 1 but I did read somewhere that it's better to have long primary tubes than short. I have run out of material now but at least I know it will work now and I can order what I need. Next it's back onto the fuel system which has taken a change in direction. Some of us just like doing everything twice. Of course that's so we can have twice as much fun. Yeah right.

Maybe instead of a rod end the arms could be made with a weld in cup? You'd need a shim or eccentric bolt for alignment purposes I guess. https://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C73-441/

Correct Reputable arm manufacturer can be mig Custom made arm tig and ndt only Oe arm modified where the weld is critical ie if the weld fails- the arm breaks- tig and ndt If it's a non critical weld on a factory arm, ie welding on a bag mount or steering stop, or strengthening plates, mig is OK