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So I jad a mishap with my pool today in that it fucking broke and emptied several thousand litres of water everywhere. The liner tore and I am looking for a new one, and someone in Dairy Flat has a new one the right size they bought ages ago and is flicking on. Can someone pick it up and pay some cash, (that I will transfer first, naturally) and hold it until I can organise some freight? This will be in a manner of days, not weeks... PF sympathy

I suppose the other question is, is it worth pissing around or should i just send it as it is now? The difference is something like 1.2% of the total weight of a rod...

yep, thats where i would be taking it off

Picked up the new clutch slave seal from Nelson Honda. I also bought some proper bike gloves while in Nelson so now I'm not wearing loose welding gloves. Onto the clutch job. Bike on centre stand, towels in place to avoid getting fluid on paint. Slave came out with no fuss. Bolts on back of engine - you can see one of the locating dowels here.. Messy.. Seal flat and worn. Luckily the bore was good, just a quick hone to clean it up. Old vs new.. All back in place, bled the system and it feels better than ever. Our friendly post girl messaged me to say the cambelts I was waiting on were in her van so I set to stripping bike down. I wanted to sort out the old windshield and also remove the white aftermarket gauge faces. I couldn't find the levers that you undo to release the screen and allow it to slide up or down about 80mm. The levers are meant to be on each side near the mirrors. Upon removing the mirrors I discovered a whole repair section on one side. The levers and associated bits have been removed. Only one bit remained on one side.. The screws holding the screen to the slidey bits were jammed up solid and the square tabs they screw into would just spin. Bugger. I drilled the 5 screws out until the heads popped off. Finally the screen was off. Left with these bits... Luckily I could fit the lugs in the lathe and drill out the remaining screws. Even luckier- 4 of the 5 ended up just spinning out once the drill bit grabbed. News stainless screws with anti-seize applied and I have working adjustment. Not as fuss free as with the lever system but I suspect I'll only adjust the screen height once then leave it alone. Will fit shiny new clean screen upon reassembly of the bike. While the screen was out I could remove the gauge cluster and get rid of the white faces. If you look carefully you can see the original black MPH faces beneath. The KPH ones don't accurately match. For example 50mph = 90kph! Removed and it looks better already. Sadly the original black faces for the fuel/temp are not hiding beneath. They've been removed completely. So white it shall remain for those. Next job was the cambelts. Really easy on these engines. Double checked the manual but the pulleys are well marked and its a nice process. Old belts were Honda branded and seemed ok. But better to be sure as its an interference engine. So the bike is in many bits. I've started removing the aftermarket wiring for the stereo, charging points and those air horns. Found one original horn in place so that's now working again. I repaired some small cracks in the some fairing bits, cleaned all the areas not normally easy to get to. The chrome crash bars have come up really good. I'll clean the other bits as I refit stuff. Enjoy the process. But while its apart I had to get these shots.. Close up of the workings for those interested... Must check the plugs, change the coolant and brake fluid, fit some new pads as the fronts are low. But for now I can at least now put it through a wof.

My bonnet has no clear coat left and im tempted to get my sister to outlines some flames and spray them with this color i had on my pitbike add. I like how the rear end looks but front needs something going on

Managed to get Frankenstein bolted up to my chassis using an existing hole in the cross brace that just so happened to be in the right location. I then measured up the length for the intermediate shaft and cut up a piece of M6 threaded rod to suit. With everything finally in place I hopped into the cab to put the gearstick through its paces and ..... Bloody awful ! Gear movement was hard as hell. Why oh why is it so ? Started to do a bit of diagnosis. First up I disconnected the cable from Frankenstein, climbed in the cab and put the gearstick through its paces with the firthest end of the cable now attached to fresh air. Smooth and effortless as one would expect. Back under the van with Frankenstein and the intermediate shaft connected to the selector arm of the gearbox I proceeded to put the gearbox through its gears by manipulating the pivot arm manually. Pretty easy going too. Scratched my head for a bit and then decided to bypass Frankenstein and just use the long looped cable attached straight to the gearbox arm. This is the exact setup that I ran when I first got the van on the road. Luckily I still had the original outer sheath mounting bracket for this setup so quickly bolted that in place. Back in the cab for a quick test and ..... Bloody awful ! How can that be ? Gave it a few more test tries and then realised that the amount of effort needed for gear selection is exactly what is currently required for gate selection. The issue stems from the use of the longer looped cables. It's just not as noticable for the gate selection as that is a sideways movement on the stick rather than a forward and backward movement I've now realised that the incremental improvements in shift effort that have resulted from the linkage modifications that I have made over time have spoiled me. Needless to say I spent the rest of the morning banishing Frankenstein and the longer cable to the naughty corner and reinstating my latest front pivot setup. Took the van for a test drive and all is good in the world again. So what's next. Well I still think a new cable in a slightly shorter length will go some way to reducing the ugly loop of cable sticking out underneath the front of the van. In fact I tested this theory by disconnecting the cable from the gearbox end and pulling the slack through to the back. Sadly I can't deal with the excess cable length down that end as the cable runs inside the boxed section of the RHS chassis leg. So the ugly loop will have to stay up front until I can get a custom length cable made up. Once I've got the new cable in place I'll then be able to work on a solid plan to modify my air deflector plate so I can get that back on. Sadly I was so cuahgt up with this morning's failings that I neglected to take some photos. But fear not as I've got some other photos on a little side project to share. So spurred into action by @yoeddynz's latest ICE installation and the fact that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery here is my take on his latest invention: Take one Boze mini bluetooth speaker: And just jamb the bloody thing into the glove box opening like so: No fancy brackets for me. Just brute force and ignorance. Works like a bloody charm.

We good Zero (excessive) play in the shaft.

Anyone got experience in building engines and balancing rod weights? Due to production changes the new rod for the Alto started at 9g heavier than the old ones. Using my balance jig I have removed about 4g off the big end which is within about 1.2g of the lightest rod, the problem is now that I need to take another 5g off the little end of the rod. There's no material to remove there, but one of the production changes was to add raised bosses in the middle of the rod with the text on it instead of being flat. Is it safe for me to take a die grinder to that raised area in the middle and try to shave it down flat (or as close as needed to get the weight within spec)? I want the rods within a gram or two of each other since the engine will regularly see about 9000rpm.

Man after watching that vid the roads look lush Sign me up for the next one

New impeller and housing and she runs good. Might make this the back up in Calliope and build a cradle for it to rest in.

Great work, keen as for the next one!

my immediate thought lol

Ahhhh yes - now that I think about it🤔 Silly me. But lol if he's genuine!

More overweek parts from Auckland/Australia/China??? (I actually have no idea) arrived last night. The box was sitting under the deck when I got home, and for the first time ever my wife beat me home by like one minute. While she was walking down the road to collect the kids I chucked the box in the shed, and have denied all knowledge of it since. Full of shiny tubes and what nots, But look at this bit, wee doggy its a sexual piece of gear, *Enhance* The 10 year old Chinese boy that made it sure can weld a lot better than I can, Considering I probably wouldn't be able to buy the materials for what it cost, I'm very happy with it so far. I think I will add in the second resonator before I fit it, because there's no way in heck its going to be acceptably loud for a sad old man/7am starts in suburbia. Regards, V "bright and shiny" G.

'Barry' Surely some fucker from here was trolling? Thats just too coincidental.

There's There's place in Christchurch called pole electroplating who do metal spraying/shaft grinding apparently. The bloke who's renting the FIL's place off the mrs used to work there.

I fully understand the scope creep. I was going to clean up and send the engine in the Fiat, but the more I looked, the worse it got. She got a full (budget) rebuild, no regerts!

Heh

Next job is to sort this eye sore out. It was already hacked and mangled so I didn't feel too bad about cutting the dash. Hopefully in the near future I'll find the time to pull the dash out and install the new head unit.

Back in the day when it was just the Lm1 and few other products, innovate stuff was good, was a forum and the guys that made the original products were quite active and helpful on there. they knew their stuff. was a good tuning forum in general also. Then yeah they got brought out and the og dudes left. the forum turned into a steaming turd and got shut down. so support wasn't a thing anymore i still have my old lm1, that gets brought out now and then to compare against the spartan with adv. advantage on the lm1, it actually tells you when the sensor is trash or some other issue. rather than just a false reading. has the lcd screen to compare against what ever you have connected it to

First thing this morning I pulled out the front pivot point and short cable currently being used for gear selection. I'll put this to one side for now just in case. I then dusted off the longer cable that has been languishing on a shelf in the shed for almost a year. It didn't take long to couple the longer cable back up to the L300 gearshift mechanism that I'm currently using. I had to slap on a pair of large flat washers to hold the outer cable due to me hacking off the cable mount last week. Oh well such is life. If this works out I'll either source another shifter or weld the cable mount in from another hacked base plate that I have in stock. Anyway cable is now in and as you can see in the photo below the gear selector cable now follows the same route as the gate selector cable which means I can reinstate my air deflector plate. With the front end of the cable installed I turned my attention to the new pivot selector that will be needed on the gearbox side. As previously mentioned I don't want to waste time making something pretty until I've proved that it will work. So for now I'm just cobbling together something from whatever I've got lying around. She aint going to win any beauty contests but here is my first itteration: Next step is to drill a hole in the pivot arm in order to attach an intermediate shaft that will run between this monstrosity and the arm on the gearbox. It may take a few goes before I get the position of the hole to match the throw that I want on the gearstick. But that's tomorrow's job after I've mounted my latest creation to the chassis cross brace. Oh the joys of working on a vehicle with a wooden floor.

Check pricing for similar cars on trademe, then list it there to net the best price.

I still like reffering to it as the baby 911. Without the associated tax. Probably ever.

Coming up on this season of Markku's Driveline Adventures: J160 Gearbox disassembly. For the last few events, I've been really struggling to get gears. Particularly getting down into 2nd, but it's also been crunching up into 3rd and 4th. Missing 2nd gear and then bogging through 3rd lost me a few a positions at the last round of racing at Highlands and I was getting super frustrated trying to find gears, so it's time to sort it out! I have a spare gearbox that I swapped out after it started to get rumbly at oldschool nats 2015. The plan has always been to rebuild it so I have a good spare, but it hasn't been an important job until right now 😅 So I downloaded the full J160 service manual and proceeded to pull it apart. You can download the full PDF from SQ Engineering (at the bottom of this page: https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/wiring-diagrams-and-diagnosis ). As I was taking things apart, a few little bits appeared from the oil. I think these are piece of bearing cage... Once I got the counter gear off, it was pretty easy to see where the rumble came from: A few of the rollers had completely fallen out of the bearing and it's chewed up the counter shaft. The rollers run directly on this surface, so I think this shaft is toast unless I get someone to hard face weld and machine it back to size Note to self and everyone else: if your bench has holes in it, put a layer of cardboard down! It take ages to find a roll pun when they fall down there! I think the shaft is too far gone, so will get Dad to raid my parts gearbox in Palmy for a counter shaft and a couple of other bits so I can get the box rebuilt in time for the next round of racing on Feb 28th. Having a parts hoard comes in handy sometimes [often].