gibbon

Watching one of the many custom car shows, guy makes some subwoofer boxes, covers them in polar fleece, puts resin on the polar fleece then sands it all back to shape... that's a new one to me?

When it comes to gillies, the Rule of Cool prevails IMHO

sorry mate never got back to you - i meant to take a video but life took over. these are the fault codes for a regular SOHC 4g63 starion. the 4g54 conquest uses the same codes so i assume they were standard for mitsis at the time. however the code i pull is totally different I'm using an analog meter as the regular digital multimeter can't react fast enough. I get a code that looks like this (repeating): i don't know what to make of the big sweep at the start. is it a "begin sequence" indicator? the manuals don't mention anything about it. given that the car runs, i doubt there's a problem with the "ignition pulse" which would suggest that it's code #1, O2 sensor (which I have swapped out with an AEM unit, the gauge is configured to duplicate the factory sender output but perhaps there's something in there that the ECU doesn't like). the second part there's a slight gap between the two so again a bit hard to tell if it's a code 5 or a code 2 and 3. measured individually none of these components appear to have anything wrong with them. i've since changed AFM to the double barreled type ,there's every chance that it's all sorted now but ive had some problems with the fuel rail which i've made worse every time i've touched them so the car currently isn't running,. oh but the brakes have seized on again in the meantime.....

Hey mate, yes I think it's a 4 pin plug, haven't been to the car recently but it rings a bell

My wiring diagram shows an inlet air temp sensor in the AFM and both the styles of airflow meter that I have seem to have it However I ALSO have some kind of sensor in the pipe before the throttle body but no idea if it's temp or pressure, the diagram makes no mention of it There is a wiring diagram that makes mention of two inlet air temp sensors, I'll have to dig it out though. It's not the one that's applicable to my engine. Below is inlet pipe sensor

I guess so? there's a vacuum line to the throttle body

Speeduino would be great because I could finally ditch the godawful airflow meter, but then there'd be the temptation to go MPI off the back of that, and that means off the road again for a decade

The twin tube one is E5T00272, the single ones are 171. If it's supposed to be the twin tube one then there's an obvious problem right there, so thanks for that... I'll swap it out the moment I find motivation

OK some new developments; i pulled the coolant temp sensor and checked it, it seems to be functioning, 2k ohm at ambient down to about 700 at boiling temp. I tested the internal resistance of the inlet temp sensor and there's something there at least, no idea what the nominal figure is. i have three airflow meters and they all gave the same result. i also blew back through the fuel return line, there was a bit of resistance there but i could hear it bubbling back in the tank so don't think it's a problem however i did notice something - the meters seem to have some kind of calibrated bypass tube? and some have a single, and some have a double. the one that was previously installed was the single unit. i have no idea if it's the correct one. but if the ECU is anticipating a load of additional unmetered air from a second tube that isn't there... that could well be why its running rich as buggery

That's what I meant sorry. So there's nothing sensitive in the line back to the tank?

OK the good news is that i seemed to have fixed the major problem - i pulled the secondary injector, it was all clean, reinstalled it, pressurized the rail and put some power to the injector and it sprayed like a champ. put a test light across the wires at the back side of the final plug and suddenly it's lighting up and the car is revving out.. so i'd say either a shitty connection somewhere which i've made right with vigorous plugging/unplugging, or maybe the injector was seized up and i've freed it up when i tap-tap-taparoo'd it into place because it didnt quite want to go in she's still running rich as shit at idle, @bigfoot i checked the return line from the regulator, it was full of fuel so it's at least the valve itself is opening. i agree the rail pressure does seem high though, the return might be full of fuel but maybe it's fuel that isn't going anywhere thanks to a blockage further down... is it safe to disconnect the line and just blow it back with compressed air? when i pressurised the rail i could see that there were no leaks from the injectors or their little housing doodad @kws i wouldn't have a clue what it's nominal figures are supposed to be for the temp sensor... i guess i could pull it and bench test it with a heat gun to see if it at least changes values.. i've never found a service manual for this particular engine and don't really want to take figures from the closest other manual as there does seem to be quite a few differences. what air fuel ratios would you expect from an auto choke function? is there a chance it's rich as shit just because it's still trying to warm up?

The fuel pump is an unknown quantity but there was good pressure at the tb and the return line from the regulator was wet so I think it's getting fuel OK The engine cuts out at any rpm with enough throttle input, or at 3500rpm if I build revs slowly at low throttle

Airflow meter I think I've just confirmed that the secondary injector isn't getting a signal to fire which would explain the cutting out.. going to try measuring again straight off the ecu whether there's an actual issue with the ecu or if not firing the second injector is part of limp mode, I'm not too sure. Perhaps it's upset about something else

I've never had this car running really so not too sure what the deal is. it's rich, it's lean, it cuts out on anything more than half throttle... the issue is explained in the YT blurb but here it is again car starts and idles easily, the AFR gauge shows it getting progressively richer, but i suspect it's rich from the get go and is just getting more accurate as the probe heats up? i've changed the fuel filter and checked the pickup sock, I don't have a pressure gauge but I tapped a sender into the throttle body and it's showing in the realm of 50psi which is probably in the ballpark but which highlights another issue entirely, this is the 12v starion engine that nobody knows anything about or has any manuals for anyway so it runs pretty rich and doesn't seem to lean out as RPM increases unloaded. on backing off it leans out quite a bit momentarily. really stabbing the throttle causes it to abruptly cut out, on recovery it runs off the gauge lean, but a blip on the throttle returns it to running reasonably rich. at the end of the video i floor the accelerator, you can see it cuts out before it makes any boost it seems to be more load related than RPM related, the TPS seems to be functioning normally. the car has a knock sensor, optical dizzy with no vacuum advance. won't rev, wont build boost, running very rich, these are probably hallmarks of limp mode but i have no idea if this car even has it. read a few fault codes but they make no sense whatsoever, they don't correlate to any of the codes in manuals for the other engine models. i have swapped out an airflow meter and ecu but nothing has changed. what should i look at next? got a speeduino here but it'll kill me inside to rip back into the wiring

with smoke pouring off the oft-handled greasy exhaust, turbo and manifold, the starion fired into life and settled into a polite idle with very little actual hassle apart from having to rewire the fuel pump. I vaguely recall my workmate saying *something* had to be done in order to start the car but I couldn't remember what, he couldn't remember what, and the seller's contact details were about three phones ago, and I bet he can't remember what either. All I know is that the black & white wire that feeds the fuel pump wasn't anywhere in the main body loom so I'm guessing it's somewhere else with a killswitch attached to it. Anyhoo check out the glare from that CRISP AS FUCK WHITE. the car would be more complete except I absolutely refuse to pay retail for bulbs and so am currently waiting on about twenty various shaped and sized globes to limp over from chinaland. Obviously I've skipped a bunch of stuff but it's been mainly fiddling around putting bits of trim on, wiring back together, and faffing with the turbo plumbing aside from it being pretty much time to fire up, the other reason for getting the cars out was to swap them over, relegating the GT6 to the Naughty Corner next problem I have, the car revs up fine, but if I try and stab the throttle to make some boost, it runs EXTREMELY lean (like, off the gauge lean) and cuts out. Could be the fact that it's running on five year old 91 drained out of the triumph? not too sure. I remember some wisdom of old "don't buy a starion with electrical problems, it will NEVER RUN AGAIN"