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About gibbon

  • Birthday 27/09/1870

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  1. with smoke pouring off the oft-handled greasy exhaust, turbo and manifold, the starion fired into life and settled into a polite idle with very little actual hassle apart from having to rewire the fuel pump. I vaguely recall my workmate saying *something* had to be done in order to start the car but I couldn't remember what, he couldn't remember what, and the seller's contact details were about three phones ago, and I bet he can't remember what either. All I know is that the black & white wire that feeds the fuel pump wasn't anywhere in the main body loom so I'm guessing it's somewhere else with a killswitch attached to it. Anyhoo check out the glare from that CRISP AS FUCK WHITE. the car would be more complete except I absolutely refuse to pay retail for bulbs and so am currently waiting on about twenty various shaped and sized globes to limp over from chinaland. Obviously I've skipped a bunch of stuff but it's been mainly fiddling around putting bits of trim on, wiring back together, and faffing with the turbo plumbing aside from it being pretty much time to fire up, the other reason for getting the cars out was to swap them over, relegating the GT6 to the Naughty Corner next problem I have, the car revs up fine, but if I try and stab the throttle to make some boost, it runs EXTREMELY lean (like, off the gauge lean) and cuts out. Could be the fact that it's running on five year old 91 drained out of the triumph? not too sure. I remember some wisdom of old "don't buy a starion with electrical problems, it will NEVER RUN AGAIN"
  2. gibbon


    I did wonder if it might be too hard, even a "hard" sanding block has a little bit of flex both in it and the paper over the top I thought 1000 would be about right to knock off runs and orange peel?
  3. gibbon


    Speaking of 2k basecoat, my car needs to be knocked back after painting, I have a dumb question... Has anyone tried knocking back paint on large flat sections with a whetstone? Say 1000 grit or so, it's dead flat, larger than a standard sanding block, no need to buy sandpaper, no messy old bits of paper hanging around, no wasting time changing paper etc
  4. Given we'll get the obligatory level 3, 2, 1 wind down on top of that, I blimmin hope not
  5. You could just about read the geological epochs in all those layers of bog on the front panel lol.. is there actually anything wrong with it, or just layers on layers? I have a couple of spares if you need one It's fantastic to go back to bare metal, often time you'll strip back a pretty good looking panel only to find snakies of rust lurking underneath I'm not a professional painter (HA HA HA LIKE, AT ALL) but I'd imagine they'd prefer to have the car in bits than all together. It just makes for a more complete looking job. I don't think they'd be particularly interested in needing all the trim etc either
  6. Aw sweet something new to buy on aliexpress. See you in an unknown amount of working weeks you good thing
  7. I can state with certainty that I'll have nothing better to do. Burgerfuel again is it?
  8. Just has chassis number and vehicle weights on it... I can just make out a manufacturers part number on the bottom. So buy blank, fill it out, gotcha ....best way to fill them out nicely? It looks to be very lightly etched, not stamped
  9. My dataplate is missing, how can I go about getting another one? Car has no VIN number, chassis code is visible on the firewall, car has live plates and is on hold, the dataplate was removed for rust repair on firewall by PO and subsequently lost
  10. Yeah mate I reckon that'll work, can I have the rod to go with it? Tried to PM you but it wouldn't go through @kyteler
  11. this is the beast here. obviously it's supposed to be in one piece, seemed a shame to just chuck the whole thing shoot me a PM if it looks like what you've got, thanks!
  12. hahah no shit, i was about to add "really just hoping that someone has one with a busted jaw" lol. I'll get a pic of the rooted bit
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