gibbon

ok. I was going to wire it to the original IAT harness as it's already there. presumably the calibration can be changed afterwards in the menu (come to think of it, considering I don't have a p/n for it I guess I'd better get some readings off it first) Stock position is on the underside of the manifold which seems like a terrible place as far as heatsoak is concerned, I'll move it to the plastic pre-throttle body pipe I'll take your guy's word for it that it's non polarity sensitive, but I did see a two wire aeroflow one that was, admittedly it didn't look too much like this one

I have a fast-reacting IAT probe here which I was going to replace the stock item on the rx7 with. Only problem is that it doesn't have a part number or anything on it (I thought it was Aeroflow brand but it doesn't seem to match their product visually). I understand that some of these probes are polarity sensitive, how do I work out if this one is, and if so, which pin is which?

got an old external regulated alternator here that shorted the stator. I fitted another stator, then hooked up the brushes to a battery just to see if it had any life in it. Got a bit of a spark as I connected the field, and now there's 2v sitting at the output terminal without the alternator turning. It does increase as I spin the pulley, but is it normal for some voltage to be wicking it's way through to the output without the alternator turning? i mean, there's no physical path to the output from the field, it's gotta be the brush arcing out somewhere, surely

oh here we go, looks like the additional of the extra external connector and the swaparound of the pins was during model change v1.3 to v1.4. So this is a 1.5 and I can't see anything that details the changes, but this board does match the layout of the v1.4 external connectors listed below

I haven't got the bit of paper in front of me... but I guess it's good enough to trust what's written on the board itself, rather than what the manual says?

uhh, this is more of a question for Link I suppose, but I have three expansion loom plugs, and they don't match the pinout in the manual?

tbh I wasn't being facetious, there's a lot of very clever guys who aren't certified for aircraft. Likewise I could probably balance a driveshaft pretty well, but no idea if I carry appropriate qualifications for that to transfer to getting signed off in the automotive world. but the offer's there if anyone wants peace of mind!

I could probably put my prop balancing gear on a driveshaft in situ and run the car up on the hoist if anyone cared that much. not sure if my paperwork is accredited enough though

i do sintered bearings in a toaster oven

left hand side was as silly as we'd suspected (no pun intended) rusty and rooted but that's ok, it's why it's getting fixed after all. And pretty crushed. probably because last time it was put together, they seemed to have omitted to reinstall the sill stiffener panel Several layers of extant outer sill panels. Looks like the previous sill was hacked out and the replacement one was just welded over the top of whatever was left behind I'm ordering some additional repair panels from the UK so with that, the panelbeater breathed a sigh of relief and disappeared home 'until the bits arrive', or possibly, never to be seen again

yeah looks like it might be part of the cctv setup. Weird because in the next room is a big cabinet devoted to it. Dunno why this little guy lives in a different room by himself

continuing to try and remove boxes from our offices, what the heck is this thing? two fibre cables, but also a big power cord thing?

My panel guy has totally paid off his debt by now but I've invoked the "you can't stop in the middle of a hoedown" clause, so work continues sill back on. We're going to chop the other side out today, the outer sill has been off in the past for some obviously amateur work judging by the welding, so we are bracing for a shitshow

now many among you said that I would lose interest in this car and just stop working on it. and i just want to say that those people were correct but just because I'm not working on it, it doesn't mean nobody is so the sills are rusty, its reaaaaaaallly only the bottom of the lip where the various panels meet up, but there's kinda no better time to do it and I've got a guy who owes me a favor. so we go back up in the air again outer sill off, the cancer is only just trickling through but it's never going to get any better. (yes we braced the door frame before pulling the sills!) aft wheel arch is coozed, someone's already been here too... looks like the sort of work I'd be proud of i bought new sills but refused to buy new floors which are both totally sweet except the outboard lip that joins into the sill. so we cut those off and folded up a new one: that's the new inner stiffener, the inner sills are pretty good so not sure if they're going to be replaced. some fiddly little bits to do around the rear arch where the rot's been cut out. then we move over to the Bad Side. Panelbeater reckons the car is generally pretty good apart from the sill seams, we had a really good look way up inside the guards and it's all clean, so that was nice both the tach and the speedo are cable driven so won't work with the mx5 running gear unless we get clever and mount up some wee motors behind the gauges if I want to keep them original, so that'll be another interesting side project i also did a bunch of wiring for the ecu but frankly I refuse to show it to you.

thanks for the reply... it looks like the expansion pin does have ignition functions (why would a 13B need eight ignitions?) I thought that the expansion loom plugged into the 4th main ECU plug (I hadn't actually opened the bag) but I see now it's much smaller and looks like it connects onto the board itself. Presumably the "expansion loom 1" and "expansion loom 2" are two separate locations on the board. So I guess the ecu can be told to use ign5 on the expansion loom to fire the 4th coil, rather than ign4?