VitesseEFI

Seems reasonable to me. Use a Series three with injection hardware and stand alone ECU for maximum effect…. Surely there are factory manual trans cars with The AJ6/16 (R380 box)? Not many maybe….

There was a factory EFI version on the series 3 XJ6 and maybe even early XJS. Created to meet US emission regs rather than performance but seems to be regarded as an improvement in most respects. Uses Bosch L-Jet which is pretty primitive analogue stuff, but that hardware in combination with even a fairly basic modern stand alone ECU to include 3D ignition control would be the easiest/best route to an EFI XK engine. It’s still a basically fairly inefficient engine though. AJ series much better, especially the 16. @BiTurbo228 put a BMW 6 pot deez in an XJ40. Was a bit of a mission, but seems to have been very successful. Not sure if he put a build thread on here but the is one on RetroRides. https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/216608/1992-jaguar-xj40-superturbodiesel

Very capable vehicle the TD5. When working. Not very many of them left now here in the homeland as tin worm has eaten most of them. Back of the chassis falls off. Bit disconcerting if you are towing apparently. It is possible to buy replacement rear chassis sections (but not always enough left to attach them) or even whole chassis, but its a big job and you’ve still got the electrical gremlins, air suspension issues and HGF to contend with. Mate had one. Carefully bought without sunroof (electrics stay dryer) and coil springs. HGF got that one in the end. Top of the block was pitted where the fire-rings sit.

This was my first thought also. Though much dollar as already mentioned and will turn your Jaguar box into swarf pretty quick. Not sure that running either of the AJs on dizzy and carbs will net you enough mpg win over what you have to be worth the very considerable effort involved. Though the XK engines are notoriously inefficient. Isn’t “LD28” the traditional OS answer to this question?

Yep, believe so….

This^^^^^

Pics are working for me in the UK - thanks 🙂

Reckon that level of distortion is most likely the result of some hydraulic action after the initial failure, but direction of travel does suggest a lack of clamp at the end of the head. Suzuki make very decent engines…..

^^^ What he says. Also, tubular manifolds that haven’t been used before sometimes need a bit of convincing at first fitting. If you can get them fitted up then they usually settle after a few heat cycles. Used to bump around Nigeria in a Mk1 Cortina (1200 I assume) as a kid in the early 70s. Unsuitable for the conditions, it got stuck occasionally and the exhaust got scraped off a few times. That had a bench seat and column change.

They do sound pretty epic….. They also come with an extra cylinder and those sound rather good too. Bit heavy maybe. Ford Focus 1.6 Sigma? Light (85kg), 105 hp in the Focus, 130ish with throttle bodies and decent manifold. No 1 son has one in his Spitfire. It’s pretty nippy. Considerably more power available with cams etc.

Your “serenity” (shattered!) vid reminds me of a rally Stratos howling through a forest stage 👏🙂 As for all the GPS and .csv stuff…. I’m well over my witchcraft threshold there, but the graphs are pretty 😬

Works for me. Thanks 🙂 You can also load directly into the forum thread, which is what I do.

Just installed Opera on my phone so I can have a VPN and view your pics (imgur not visible in UK anymore). Wow. Those cores and moulds 👏👏 Results look fantastic.

Not particularly a Subaru person but always good to see an oldish car getting a good going through. Looks like you’ve arrived just in time to save it. High miles and still ok condition usually means that someone in ownership trail was good about maintenance, probably the same person who added most of the miles. High miles also tend to be long distance miles, so reasonably low hours. Keep up the good work 🙂

Audi TT rear box tied on with coat-hanger wire …. …..was dangling low because the bracket had snapped at the single weld…… after about 1000 miles service. Crappy aftermarket box lacks the brace the OEM one has. OEM box lasted 124k / 22 years….. Now welded back on with a brace. Wire was working just fine though