yoeddynz

Yeah apart from the high cog I'd also have to pop the engine up through the parcel shelf - ala the datsun install. Something I wanted to avoid. I see that he's had to chop through his bulkhead. They are quite a long engine when the stock idler gears and clutch assembly is involved as well. Yep - my method was a shit load of work but well worth the fun/head scratching to get my end result.

Yeah @dmulally sent it to me last night I've been conversing with the builder via messenger a few months ago when he was finishing it off. He'd originally got the idea from one of my first videos but interestingly he'd not found my build thread which would have helped him plenty. Different way to do it, much simpler for sure but they sit much higher and further back when installed this way.

It's even colour matched

This is looking great Damian!!! Very impressed. Now that you have it right side up I am figuring you'll soon be starting on the cabin construction. Here's some inspiration for you.. (I feel you will do a neater job though..)

Bloody good of them to mark it for you so you don't accidently put it in backwards

Happy to be corrected but if swapping from auto to manual using stock parts from an otherwise like for like platform I don't think there's any need for a cert. Certainly was the case for our March because other than drilling out the bulkhead pressing it was all just bolt in stuff. The wof guy looked it up and was fine with it because there were no mods needed. If you could drill out the spot welds on the red car and pinch its box mounts then get them neatly welded into the silver cars tunnel then you'll be bolt in stuff too (I'm presuming they will work in the auto tunnel unless its not just taller but wider as well?)

Ideas for you. Go to 10.10 min

Fair enough But maybe before you go too far with re-assembly you could at least holesaw out that clutch cylinder hole in the bulkhead. Then for the time being fill with suitable rubber grommet or cover with an oldschool sticker etc. Nicer not having to make a mess later on when dash and engine stuff is in the way?

I'm loving these updates. However - it does look like something is going down the wrong path.. This.. Should be in the grey car. This pedal... Looks too large. And there's a hole here... That you've forgotten to drill out?

Hell yeah- that was just the story I wanted to read. What an adventure. So choice the bit when you discovered the axle was from the car. Looking forward to seeing where this goes- another superb Josh project on the go. Yes!!

Yeah there was a voltage stabiliser for the original gauge, around 5 volts I think. Out of interest I tried it out on the new gauge and it just made it go up and down erractly.

I had checked the earth points and they seem fine. I've added resistance to bring the reading down so I'd figure a bad earth would have down the same by adding resistance? Its an odd one. Perhaps the Datsun sensor has always been a poor connection on the sensor and this time round I have jiggled it so making it a better connection - thus reading higher than usual. The sensor in the goldwing engine was a random one I found and has always read very close to what the megasquirt reads so that has been no issue. It didn't seem to change after the new dash layout was installed.

Thanks man. Yeah its really only trying its best to fit into being an English car after all. I should have left it. As for the capacitor- that was also suggested on retrorides. Its not jumping about so much as just going up and down when I got around corners or up and down hills. I'm not that savvy on electrons other than them being little men running through pipes. They are obviously quite active when the fuel is surging about. Will the capacitor act like some hardcore sleeping pills and slow those little electron men down?

Last week this lovely thing here... ..got replaced with this old lump.. (photo taken while bleeding the cooling system) I wanted to give the flat six a little look over, check some things and sort out a small oil leak that in retrospect I should have just ignored because it turned into a mini ball ache. I should just accept that any engine fitted into a British car is destined to leak oil to some extent. I started operation leak fix by sliding the engine off the engine stand onto the big table, glad to have made the table, the benches and the stand all the same height, then standing the engine on its end. I popped the sump off and started pulling the oil system pipework apart.. The aim was to stop the oil that was seeping out between the oil filter pedestal and the crankcase. I had previously tried sealing it externally with some gloop but it was too awkward to get in there properly. You can see the residue in this shot.. Oil creeping through between the pedestal pipes and weeping through the card gasket I'd fitted. But i discovered I couldn't remove the pedestal fully without removing one of the exhaust studs and there was no way that exhaust stud wanted to come out easily. I tried a bit of heat, cooling the stud with spray, two nuts, vice grips. I really didn't want to risk damaging it. Luckily I was able to pull the pedestal out away from the case enough to squirt sealant into the gap after a thorough cleaning. Smeared the gloop in neatly with my fingers, pulled to pedestal up tight with its bolts. Happy it was now sealed up I reassembled then painted the area.. All the various gubbins back in place.. I like this shot.. While the engine is out I checked the oil pump drive chains. They seem fine and no slacker than when fitted so no need to adjust tensions. Whilst checking them and looking over the system I worked out a better (simpler) way I could have made the system that would use just the one chain. Future tinkering if I ever needed to but for now it works so I'll keep running it and check it every so often. So while this has been happening the Datsun A12 is back in place. I had to fix another hole in the old muffler I'd built for the Datsun. Its pretty rotten in places. The temp gauge reads too high - I suspect the only way its changed is from different wiring in the new dash layout due to larger wiring having less resistance. But there was no change in temps shown with the flat six. Very weird. Anyway, in order to stop the Datsun temp reading 120 C I added a variable resister inline on the sensor wire.. Adjusted that until the temp was where I guessed it should be, measured the resistance and looked through my stash of bits.. Found a resister close enough.. Its now fitted with teminals and covered in heat shrink. While on the subject of gauges I had the fuel gauge I'd ordered from Ali express ($15 delivered). As a bonus the delivery folks involved squashed the box and added patina to the lovely black bezel. Ho hum. But at least I have a gauge that matches the Trisco temp gauge (poor mans VDO).. I bought this gauge knowing full well that it most likely wont work accurately with my Imp fuel tank sender. I wired it up on the bench with a spare sender and to my surprise it actually reads bang on .. Only issue is its not a damped system. The gauge responds instantly so the needle does flutter about on rough roads but one only needs to drive along on a straight smooth surface for a few seconds to get an accurate reading. I rummaged through my extensive supply of various dash bulbs, many of which are Nissan K11 items. Found some green ones for this both this and the temp gauge for a nicer glow. I'll change the one in the oil pressure gauge to match. I have also had a load more leds with controllers turn up from Ali. I'll be having a play with some under dash floor lighting and some lighting in the engine bay. When I re-did all the wiring involved with the new dashboard layout I added in a spare plug to suit a spare Toyota speedo hall sensor just like what I'm using on the Subaru transmission. Earlier in the year I had machined up an alloy adaptor with two different threads. One end to suit the sensor, the other to suit the Imp speedo cable. It all tucks away up under the dash. With the Datsun installed I was able to try it.. The speedo cable on Imps is driven off the passenger front wheel so spins at road speed. I had not bothered to check what the ratio of the speedo output on the Subaru box was relative to road wheel speed. I didn't even have any idea what it could be. I just took the imp for a drive prepared for some completely errant reading, either way too slow or far too fast. However the gauge gods must really have been in a good mood with me recently because the speedo reads almost bang on. Wow. This has saved me extra bother because if it was completely inaccurate I was prepared to swap back in the original mechanical strip speedo for Datsun duties. Now the swap between both engines is even easier. I've driven the imp about in the last few days and I'm always really impressed with how well the little Datsun engine goes. Its so neat. Its a torquey little thing. Although not even close to the smoothness of the six, or anywhere as quick, it still makes for a great daily drive. But I'm really looking forward to going back to the hopefully leak free Honda.. fingers crossed.