Hemi

Vella Lavella! been there when pretty young, remember the parents went on a tour to some skull caves because cannibilism etc. beautiful place.

Saving this years work boot allocation just for the undertaking. good shit. Looking good there Bart.

Oh man, heretic. That brings back memories.

Off topic. But damn son.

Atf is good for freeing up bores too, has the detergents in it for that, wont evaporate etc. As for if its a bottom end issue,try turnign over via crank bolts? if these slack then it might be in the pistong rings. if theres none its in the crank.

By running a bearing. that will get the oil hot very fucking quick and zero change to coolant temp. I will say that i work on truck motors and not smaller vehicle so it might be different. But in my experience is if the oil temp raised so quick it didnt get to the cooling system, thats bearings , they aint part of the cooling system and thus the oil will hold ALL of the heat. Yeah there are oil coolers but if you watch coolant vs oil temps while running up you can see how lagging/ disconnected they can be. Not a wail, but my experience. tear me apart if you will.

Been repeated heaps, but yeah dont let them go dead. most chargers now days are like 10 amp most which just wont wake a slumbring beast, they probably cut out/ cut the amps because they think it has a dead cell which if fed like that will cause boiling ( both charging and in the vehicle) The batts in the trucks here last like 2 months tops in summer if they go onto the gravel due to heat and vibration. Dont be mad if you have to replace them every 3 years tbh. couple hundy over thet term isnt that bad.

kits can be spendy though**

Helicoil. Keep the same size and gain the benefits of stainless thread instead of alloy, and if it shits itself, well just grab it by the end and zoom it out.

Right , ive run across a good video on how to set it up. however, any experience on using it will be awesome.

Right, so have rebuilt a few d16 engines and have had no issues. usually we get the crank inspected by an outworker and is measured etc. i usually mic the thing myself to note the values for peace of mind. however, ive been using plastigage to note the bearing clearance and the GM is not happy with it. he wants full measurement done , which is cool and i can understand that. IN the past ive used the t style pieces where you push in, put in place. hit the btton they shoot out and you mic that. I dont have those here, but do have a dial bore gauge. have had a look at a few tutorials but im not picking it up and its making me feel fucking stupid. SO questions are: #1 can a dial bore gauge be used to measure big end and main bearings #2 How do i set this up. Mainly you have the gauge setup, and a set of anvils. say the the spec is 112.3mm or i have the bearings setup and i measure that to the same. do i grab a 112 anvil and .5 spacer? or is there a piece of paper missing from the case that tells me how to add the anvil to the setup. Any help appreciated as ive asked for the above mentioned gauge kit thing but get the feeling im meant to be able to do it with this.

Fuck EGR. The Euro's are going to hot EGR. will see how that goes ( so no cooler etc) Still, fuck EGR. Aftertreatment is a pain in the ass, but i can deal with it. because its after the engine. this bullshit that poisons the whole motor when it fails can burn in hell.

You can fill the cavities to help stop water sitting inside the hub. I wouldnt worry too much unless its making its way onto the brakes (if it has those) check it every now and then after a good run and see what happens, some grease have alot of oil in the soap and can let it out, others a super dry and wont bleed even after being cooked .

Got Pics? sweat is nothing i would be concerned about, a large amount of fluid would be though. how much have you packed into the bearings?

@Steelies @KKtrips, anyone else? yeah that's the plan at this stage, sweet man, sis might be able to help me out but otherwise yes please. Will let you know by mid day tomorrow?