KKtrips

Ask yourself. What would Lemmy do?

Also you can run the pipes under the subframe and mount the mufflers in the rear guards if you want ground clearance.

Mate, a straight pipe and a couple of Cobys exiting through the sill and shit will be cash.

New inspirational photos of a Deluxe cub WITH a full rear fender... mmmmm mmm yummy

Tonight's job was making the engine mount, engineers, please bare with me cos this may be painful to look at, but my engineering skills ain't that flash.. First was put the engine where I wanted it to sit and measure the distance between centres from the original engine mount location to the new mount location. (which was 30mm BTW) Next cut some 50mm x 6mm strap to 50mm lengths giving me 50x50x6 plates. Drill 2 pilot holes 30mm apart along the centre line of the plate and drill them to 11mm (10mm bolt plus wiggle) Cut down the sides to a nice taper then repeat x 2 Next measure the gap from the engine to the plates with them bolted in, each side was different (8mm one side and 10mm the other) Also cut a spacer to go where the engine used to sit (90mm wide but I fucked up so have to add a wee washer on one side to pack it out) Fit the plates with spacers and tighten it all up, VOILA! a mount is born. And here are all the parts back out of the bike. I intend to radius the corners of the plates and weld the small spacers to the plates and then weld the plates to the frame. But I ran out of time tonight. It was incredibly strong as it was by just tightening up the bolts, but for longevity I reckon its probably best to weld the plates in place. I may linish down the smaller spacers yet, because it might be a mission to get the engine in and out with the snugness it possesses currently. Anyhow if you have any criticism then fire away. Although this seems a much easier method than the way other people have described to me how they did it. Also I won't be using threaded rod in the final version - I just used it for mock up purposes this time around.

Dowahn. Cohen. Browhown.

It looks exactly the same spec as this. (even down to the unusual clutch fork/lever arrangement - I've been told that normally they are horizontal pull - mine is vertical) https://assassindirtbikes.com.au/store/engines/lifan-125cc-r-race-big-bore-engine-motor-dirt-bike-assassin-dhz-thumpstar-atomik-1372.html Also, I now believe that this will bolt straight into your frame, it's only the C90 frames that need engine mount modification.

and trains

Endorsed by admin. When I am in need of an area rep, I always reach for a Kickers. *ad jingle* Get yours now before they sell out, .99c * at all fine fuel establishments. *recommended retail price, your retail experience may differ

Probably not a good enough rider for that.

Yes definitely. Not only would that be fucking cool, you are probably saving the life of a mechanic. Maybe even 2 mechanics.

Those rear brakes are a shit cunt to replace. Rear disc replacement is major involving removing rusty seized together exhaust joints, busted knuckles, prayers to multiple deitys, suicide and a lot of swearing. IMHO you may as well drop.the whole subframe and give it a full rebuild. Do it once do it right. Perhaps even get a custom.bolt together exhaust made for it rather than stupid slip joints that seize or break. Also those discs look kind of OK and I would not hesitate in rolling with them until I was feeling particularly masochistic. If anything just replace the hand brake pads because they are not too bad to replace if your car has the access panels under the rear seat. (not all of them do, weirdly/Jaguarly) PS: Paul Walbran's is the best Jag Barry I know of up your way. edit - http://mgparts.co.nz/what-we-do-and-meet-the-team/

Inspirational photo - just needs a full rear fender. Why does everyone cut them fucking off. laugh!

Alrighty then. I'll text ya on Saturday.

You working tomorrow? I might swing by and ding a ding dang my dang a long ling long.