KKtrips

Last couple of weekends I stripped every last part of the front suspension down and prepped it for paint. Sent the steering rack for a rebuild and crossmember for blasting and powdercoating and got the crossmember back today. This Saturdays job is to paint all the bits and reassemble with new buses, joints, links etc. Should be tight as a goldfishes anoose once its all back together. Pic 4 Fred

Awesome progress man One thing caught my eye... this brake pedal... Definitely won't pass cert. LoL

Third kick and 2 seconds later the choke was off and she ran like a champ.

Cruised to the panelbeaters today and pulled the crossmember and front suspension out for giving a tidy up while the rust is taken care of. Yes, still more sandblasting material came out.

Actually forget that, water pump is driven from the cambelt. Also you have a fresh motor so that shit be tighter than a goldfishes asshole, so overheating is not unexpected during break in period.

Its not something stupid like the water pump being spun backwards? From memory a UZ has the pump running off the back side of the serpentine belt and when you added on the S-Ch you didn't make the pump run the wrong way by rerouting the belt?

My first thoughts and came to say that here ^, Is there a bunch of drag from the supercharger, they take a bit of power to drive Can you remove the belt and run it with no S/Ch?

Yeah check ya junkmail. Also the password is your email address, most people dont read that part.

Buy this chapter of the Car Construction Manual - http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/chapter-6-suspension-systems/ It has a bunch of info that will help.

Just did a clean up of all my posts and copied all the images from photobucket and re-added them as attachments on OS. FUCK YOU PHOTOBUCKET!!!! In the process of stockpiling parts for the 304. - video for parts reference for me later on. Reminder for later - thanks @64valiant Turned out the brand was kilmat and it was a crap load cheaper than dynamat. For example there is a dynamat kit on trade me for 369 for 3.3 square meters so around 110 a square meter or you can get kilmat for 43 a square. Or I paid to have it fast freighted and it still only cost me 58 a square.

Just had someone pay the ultimate compliment, "a stationwagon is the mullet of cars" how cool is that? They preceeded their comment with "ewww yuck..." but I totally took it is as a compliment, so fuck em.

Went to look at it when I went to the V8's in Puke last year but the rooster didn't reply to my emails when I tried to make a time. So fuck him, I decided I'll get something for myself on a trip in the next couple of years.

My wagnats is being celebrated by taking my wagon to the body shop.

This looks sexy as fuck - also I will move your posts above to your build thread

Time has come for me to wire my scoot. I have no wiring whatsoever so starting from scratch but the bonus is I'm running bare bones electrical Anyone got a go-to wiring diagram to help make my job easy? The full list of everything electrical I'll be running. Ignition Switch Trail-tech CDI and Coil Headlight (low beam only) Park-light Tail-light Brake-light Switch Brake-light Speedo-Light (not necessary if too hard) All lights are LED bulbs and I want to set it up so they turn on whenever the engine is running (ie: no light switch). There is no battery, horn, or indicators.