KKtrips

Get used to this

Oh wait you mean supermarket? yeah samesies here. BOOKED SOLID.

For WoF? Only essential vehicles can get WoF's during lockdown. Trucks/taxis/delivery vehicles etc. Also the word is that police will be lenient on cars with WoF's that have expired during the lockdown, providing the driver passes the attitude test and they aren't just out for a jaunt to the beach to cough on someone elses kids.

Tapered wheel nuts are insufficient with a spacer. Requires a hubcentric ring on the spacer or the wheels needs to locate on the hub.

What centres the wheel to the hub? It usually needs a hubcentric ring but if the centre of the hub is a snug fit to the wheel centre then that typically would suffice - but check if your certifier would be happy with that. Also yes it can be attached to the wheel, but that is not the desired method so might be looked at sideways by the certifier.

Last couple of weekends I stripped every last part of the front suspension down and prepped it for paint. Sent the steering rack for a rebuild and crossmember for blasting and powdercoating and got the crossmember back today. This Saturdays job is to paint all the bits and reassemble with new buses, joints, links etc. Should be tight as a goldfishes anoose once its all back together. Pic 4 Fred

Awesome progress man One thing caught my eye... this brake pedal... Definitely won't pass cert. LoL

Third kick and 2 seconds later the choke was off and she ran like a champ.

Cruised to the panelbeaters today and pulled the crossmember and front suspension out for giving a tidy up while the rust is taken care of. Yes, still more sandblasting material came out.

Actually forget that, water pump is driven from the cambelt. Also you have a fresh motor so that shit be tighter than a goldfishes asshole, so overheating is not unexpected during break in period.

Its not something stupid like the water pump being spun backwards? From memory a UZ has the pump running off the back side of the serpentine belt and when you added on the S-Ch you didn't make the pump run the wrong way by rerouting the belt?

My first thoughts and came to say that here ^, Is there a bunch of drag from the supercharger, they take a bit of power to drive Can you remove the belt and run it with no S/Ch?

Yeah check ya junkmail. Also the password is your email address, most people dont read that part.

Buy this chapter of the Car Construction Manual - http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/chapter-6-suspension-systems/ It has a bunch of info that will help.

Just did a clean up of all my posts and copied all the images from photobucket and re-added them as attachments on OS. FUCK YOU PHOTOBUCKET!!!! In the process of stockpiling parts for the 304. - video for parts reference for me later on. Reminder for later - thanks @64valiant Turned out the brand was kilmat and it was a crap load cheaper than dynamat. For example there is a dynamat kit on trade me for 369 for 3.3 square meters so around 110 a square meter or you can get kilmat for 43 a square. Or I paid to have it fast freighted and it still only cost me 58 a square.

Just had someone pay the ultimate compliment, "a stationwagon is the mullet of cars" how cool is that? They preceeded their comment with "ewww yuck..." but I totally took it is as a compliment, so fuck em.

Went to look at it when I went to the V8's in Puke last year but the rooster didn't reply to my emails when I tried to make a time. So fuck him, I decided I'll get something for myself on a trip in the next couple of years.

My wagnats is being celebrated by taking my wagon to the body shop.

This looks sexy as fuck - also I will move your posts above to your build thread

Time has come for me to wire my scoot. I have no wiring whatsoever so starting from scratch but the bonus is I'm running bare bones electrical Anyone got a go-to wiring diagram to help make my job easy? The full list of everything electrical I'll be running. Ignition Switch Trail-tech CDI and Coil Headlight (low beam only) Park-light Tail-light Brake-light Switch Brake-light Speedo-Light (not necessary if too hard) All lights are LED bulbs and I want to set it up so they turn on whenever the engine is running (ie: no light switch). There is no battery, horn, or indicators.

If anyone wants me to check our copy of the ETRTO (I think we have the 2015 edition) then send an email to me at work and I can check for you. (PM me for my work email address) I plan to update the Tyre-Rim infosheet, with all the info from the ETRTO, but its a time/priority thing.

If the tyre size is outside the rim size listed in the ETRTO (tyre standard) and the LVVTA tyre size document then you can fit narrower tyres only if the manufacturer (not the wholesaler or retailer) supplies a letter saying so. Also - you MUST use the tyre brand and model listed on the letter. ie: you can't get a letter from Falken saying 205-60-14's can fit on 8" rims and then fit Supercats in that size.

I have no running wag so at best I would Prius up with a tent on Friday morning, cos I'm seeing Queen at the Stadium, and depart Saturday midday. But that just seems a lot of effort for an unsatisfying teaser of awesome, so it is very likely I will not be coming this year and my enthusiasm is on ice until next year.

Compressions are fine. Don't fret. Jag handbrakes are the devil. That is all.

Bart - NAUGHTY Welding cast is an absolute no-no so please ignore Bart cos that is super dumb advice. If you are changing hubs and stubs, why not change suspension arms too and retain the correct ball-joints?