KKtrips

Try Franz at Autoglas Stieger for rear side glass, he has surprised me in the past with how easily he can get weird stuff in from Europe/UK.

Been pottering away on this most weekends and stripped down engine etc. Block is at Parker's getting a measure and clean alongside the heads getting a skim and tidy up, Voldo is grinding the cam, I have bought new gaskets and roller lifters etc out of the US. As usual didn't take many photos. I did take my new headers to the blasters to take off the factory crappy paint and today I applied 2 good coats of VHT flame proof ceramic header paint. Will chuck on another coat next weekend. Between coats I chucked down a bit of sound deadening in the front. As an unfit mid 40 ye

Keep in mind that some codes (ie drag racing) do not allow fuel lines inside the vehicle...

Providin you use the correct fuel line, have no connections inside the passenger compartment and it must use bulkhead fittings at each end, it should be OK. But it must also be able to be inspected, so covered by carpet is a no go.

Looks like a serious bit of kit and would probably be overkill for anything other than an uber mega slam. IMHO bolt on = fuck off. Be like Mike and weld it in.

I died a little / a LOT on the inside.

Unfortunately not, can only be used on a scratchbuilt vehicle with 1 row of seats or it requires motorsport authority card.

Doing a bang up job boyo. Good on ya man.

Got a week off work for a nice break. Spent a few hours today wire-wheeling back the whole back underseat area, etch priming and then sealing that shit. It was fucking exhausting. #shutupoldman Also stripped down the 304 to pull the cam to send to Voldo for a new profile and new roller valvetrain. Only broke one bolt, which was surprising, no evidence of overheating and looks top have been fairly well maintained over the years. Probably just high mileage if anything. But its getting a rebuild anyway so wont matter. Tomororow I'll hopefully start on sound deadening, but judging from t

B-pillar wouldn't be a problem, more what is within headstrike distance.

If you have anything hard within 300mm of the back of the seat then yes you will need a headrest, I suspect the cage will be your nemesis.

I got asked about adaptors vs spacers the other day, so thought I would post the bit about adaptors here so they are both together Wheel adaptor design and manufacture 2.5(4) A wheel adaptor fitted to a low volume vehicle between the hub and wheel assembly to affect a change in the wheel stud pattern or pitch circle diameter, must: (a)be purpose-designed for automotive applications, manufactured by a recognised automotive wheel adaptor manufacturer or be manufactured by a person who is recognised by an LVV Certifier as: (i)being competent and experienced in the type of work being unde

I hope you are planning on similar or lower stance...

Excepting the case of the trailer that broke the drawbar and crossed the centreline and head-on'ed with a vehicle coming the other way.

Have a half day slot booked every weekend to smash some work on the Commy. Ended up spending the last few weekend slots fucking around with moving lockup shit around. But it's all in good shape now and managed to get some more progress this morning. Stripped the rest of the interior out. Stupid me should have done this before painting the floor (I forgot to take out the sound deadining from under the back seat) At least I now have full access for rewiring the interior. Going to spend a couple of days cleaning, vaccuming and tidying up the interior before doing anything more in there. Ne

From Seats and seat anchorages - NZTA Vehicle Portal

Use the correct doubler plates to mount it to the trans tunnel and get it certified. The standard you need is to follow from half way down page 27 - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

$2500-3500 last time I looked into a buying a complete T5. I did a conversion on my Commy with a W56, 2nd hand Dellow bellhousing and new clutch, not including the gearbox rebuild, custom cross member and driveshaft mods, I was in the deep end of $2000 just for the core parts.

Vehicle has been changed since declaration and won't match. So it requires cert. Anything that matches the declaration will be assessed to general safety requirements and recorded on the plate as such. Anything not listed or that does not match will need to meet current requirements.

Exempt Class A is farm vehicles that have to cross the road every now and then. Probably some struggling cow cockie registering his 2019 Audi Q7 on the cheap because milk solids only gave him a high 6 figure take home pay last year instead of a low 7 figure.

H* factory manuals are small AF gearboxes so can't put a tonne of power through them, if you can handle not 5 or 6 spd, then an Aussie 4 spd would be the go. SBC and Holden bellhousings are very similar. 2 bolts different IIRC. If you need 5 or 6 speed then get the best you can afford, they are all going to need some modification and all pretty much equal.

Fuck yeah

I've found out since starting at LVVTA that the button style are actually droop stops and not bump stops. Bump stops must be progressive and have the ability to cushion.

Minimum of 40mm suspension droop (unless some really lightweight thing like a Lotus 7 replica) Spacer requirements start from page 17 - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf Spacer requirements for all wheels 2.5(1) A wheel spacer fitted to a low volume vehicle between the wheel and hub assembly, other than that fitted as original equipment by a high volume vehicle manufacturer, must: (a)be purposed-designed for automotive applications, and either be manufactured by a recognised automotive wheel spacer manufacturer, or be manufactured by a person who