Bling

I can't compare it against another unit to check how accurate it is, but I got a "KONNWEI KW208" off AliEx. Can test in and out of car (though i've never bothered with in car, it's a process) tells you SoH, SoC etc. Has lined up well with my batteries andd how they have performed. I got it to keep an eye on the fleet to make sure nothing needs a top up. For the money I have zero regerts. Very easy to use, pick battery type, rated capacity and away it goes. Probably same shit different box to the $120 unit you posted. Example only, got mine a couple of years ago and listing is now gone. https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007225230327.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.4387x131x131Rb&algo_pvid=04ad75f8-9f38-4415-bf24-ea206a08d9cd&algo_exp_id=04ad75f8-9f38-4415-bf24-ea206a08d9cd-0&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"419"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!63.64!28.64!!!263.72!118.67!%402101ec1a17474418129955842e2261!12000039934416591!sea!NZ!116624700!X&curPageLogUid=zOloAPX8pe6o&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

Not lately, but in the last few of years. Was CO2 and was ~$90-$100 including refill.

My welder only came with a argon regulator as well. Apart from the cylinder pressure reading being pointless, I've have zero issues with "pure" CO2 through it for years. (With valve adapter). I'm guessing argon mix runs at the same cylinder pressure that pure argon does?

Ken.

-NaN-

Owner cylinder here, have had it tested once, which cost ~$90 with a CO2 refill. That will last me five years, rinse and repeat. Have had it forever, it's a 6.8KG cylinder and was sub $400 to buy. Can get 5kg cylinders sub $300 on trademe. This is for CO2, which is perfectly fine for backyarders. I can easily pump out nice tidy small welds and also throw down ugly as fuck big ones. CO2 is just a cheaper way to get into it. When I got it rental options weren't as good as they are now, so I haven't kept a track of the best deal going down that path.

Yeah I know you are lol, I nearly added a part just for you to exclude you from being human.

Wasn't directed at anyone in particular, more of a general statement. But there is no point picking out even just a few professions as it can be anyone. I only know one dick plumber and the rest are GC's, and I know a few having been in that industry. As for the seller in the above case, apart from them being a right cunt. I would have claimed against them as buyer. Sold a car knowingly modified (badly) from cert spec. With that said, i'd never buy a certed car without doing about a million times more checks than an uncerted car. So buyer should have probably done more checks.

WOF guys are humans too, I think people forget that sometimes. I use the same crew every time and have a good relationship with them. Would not be too keen to take the certed car to a random place, i'm sure they wouldn't want to deal with the extra work either! What were the factory sized wheels? Can still be picked up for inappropriately sized tyres too if stretch is your thing.

Isn't that covered by direct replacements?

Can't just leave belts wired in and hide them?

Are the countersunk screws you have 8.8 rated? Never used any myself so just wondering.

Slightly off topic I know... but i'm just going to leave this here (has haunted me since I read it):

They will make whatever you want. Costs more than off the shelf stuff, but that's to be expected as they have to do a bit of work. Looked into them for a solution a couple of years ago (but didn't go ahead), good to deal with.

Was yarning with someone recently about a similar removal (vin though) that meant future roadworthiness of a vehicle was in the hands of NZTA $$. I assume they noticed rivets / damage around them. Don't remove plates, it can really ruin your cereal. I masking taped (very neatly) my build plate when respraying and it looked sweet as.