Bling

Little busy for me with a bday to organise. But as a side quest, thoughts on heading back to that bay we did last year? Was such a good casual bbq spot, even if the road there was punishing.

You'll know this like the back of your hand Clint, but there is the 1/3 option too that I assume could apply here too? I had to use that on my car due to being low and light and probably slightly too stiff. Any softer though and I think i'd be grading the rural roads. I also went from five seater to four seater as cert man was more comfortable with less bums on seats with my setup suspension wise. At least that's what I recall from years ago now. I think I was at ~90mm total suspension travel.

My understanding is that you'd need something pretty high output to not need a reduction gearbag. In this case a LEAF runs a ~8:1 reduction gearbag. I imagine if you tried to run it direct drive you'd go nowhere. Has to be something in the mix to swap RPM for torque. Normal car gearbag (from my understanding) is the same as a reduction gearbag + add diff into the mix as well. Except it can 1:1 the speed and also run overdrive to increase output speed. Purely my understanding anyway, more power = less need for reducing the output speed. Seems to make sense when you see silly horsepower cars leaving the start of a race in 2nd/3rd like nothing. LEAF running in a Carry will be loose as f**k, love it! Make a build thread for sure!

Sounds like you're sorted then. Dell won't be making their own fans, so if you find some that match i'd go for it. I had to do that for a fuel pump today, looks the same so hoping for the best.

Pricing seems better to me! I ended up with this one, but US Amazon: https://www.amazon.com.au/BestParts-Replacement-Precision-UMA-Version/dp/B0GGJFW56G And I don't know which model laptop / spec it needs to suit. But if you can source fans alone, you should be sorted.

Can you strip it down to just narrow down the fan part itself? I'd 100% just use a generic one, a fan is a fan IMO.

Factory thickness or a bit thicker would be a safe bet I imagine? On the plus side, you can pump out 3D prints of the bracket till you get one that works.

I got some round bar from Little Metals, if nothing local pops up. Was pretty quick service all those years ago I needed 70mm or something round bar. A quick look suggest they supply plate in 7075 T651 and 6061 T615.

Those pictures make more sense if you are using off the shelf doubler plates. I just had top bolt to do in my car so was able to use them.

If those two jokers above can't sort it, find your car on Amayama (can use chassis number) and start adding things to your cart. When you have enough, submit it and they'll check what they can and can't get. My last two orders i've cancelled as they came back and said 90% of items were NLA. I've managed to get some parts though which no one else can source. One example was front side indicator lenses, NLA here but can get them off there for like $5-7 a pop. That was for a different car, but just illustrating it can be a lucky dip.

If it's just for testing, can't just hook it up to a car battery with the car running? Amp / sub would be more than a PSU (cheap, old one) would handle so flag that idea. /Just install them in the Datsun already, we won't judge.

I wired up an old PC power supply I had, put it in a box and ran a headunit with speakers etc. So unless you're talking about testing out woofers and the likes, i'd just pick up an old power supply and wire it accordingly. They have 12V power feeds and 5V feeds. So it's pretty easy to do. There are two wires you need to connect to fire it up, I think it's just a trigger and doesn't need to be a permanent connection, then away you go. Then you just used the 12V and ground wires as you would if it was a car. if that makes sense. Plenty of tutorials online these days. I don't remember exactly how I wired mine, but can try dig it out later.

https://www.toycrazy.net/index1.html Not sure if Mark did driveshaft comparisons. If anyone has though, it will be him, so check the site. @AE25

I have a hub I want to clean up, I'm assuming being from the 80's it will be cast steel? Is it safe to use the likes of evapo rust or whatever they can it, to dip it in to remove all of the surface rust? Just not keen on it being ruining since it keeps the wheels attached to the car. I just can't recall (and I've googled) which metals you can't use such products on. From memory it might have been high tensile parts. Just wondering if anything knows the go with this stuff? Next option is wire wheel but there are places that will be a nightmare to get the rust out of. TIA

For me if would be like being a bad gambler, and keeping track of losses. Bit nope for me. I think I roughly added up one (super rough) for the purposes of insurance. Ain't no one believing a car that age, looking like that costs that much to build again...