Bling

Was yarning with someone recently about a similar removal (vin though) that meant future roadworthiness of a vehicle was in the hands of NZTA $$. I assume they noticed rivets / damage around them. Don't remove plates, it can really ruin your cereal. I masking taped (very neatly) my build plate when respraying and it looked sweet as.

That arrived quick! Yeah looks like I'd be put to shame. Seemed heavier as it's hard to pick up, I swear!

Let me know an address and i'll slap a sticker on the box. I'll then spend the weekend saving up the energy to get it to my front door for a Monday surprise for courier. Courier on Monday "shit me, I thought delivering weeping gearbags to front doors was bad, this is a new level of punishment"

What's the stuff worth on Amazon? Unless you're so far in the wops the rural courier doesn't venture there, I could probably do it for $100 to your door (my courier will hate me at 18kg). Happy to have it sit there a few more years though, just if you want some and that's cheaper than Amazon then the offer is there. Unsure of pricing from the posts, but i'm pretty sure it was around that $100 mark, but "The Market" doesn't exist anymore so I can't look up orders.

@yoeddynz it's still in it's box I'm afraid. Odds I'll actually install it soon (ever?) are not great. Edit: holy shit that was a long time ago!!

Won't make this one sadly, was on target till help didn't show up and the weather turned to shit. So i'm behind on something I need finished this year. Hoping for nice weather though, will miss the sharns and snags.

Yeah a decent compressor will make up for not having >9000L of stored air. Compressor output is more important than tank size, so 50L should get the job done all other things being decent. A shit compressor with massive tank is pointless. Do you know what the output of the compressor is lowlancer? FAD is the important figure if it's on the unit. Not sure if that is a decent deal on the main water trap either. They likely all come from China now, so I would shop around personally. Unless it's a decent brand made elsewhere anyway, they don't mention it so yeah.

Saturday I have less baggage but some fellas work then so whatever works for most. Shade is big plus.

Running 6kg up front and 4.7kg progressive in the rear of my E7 Corolla, made specifically for AE86. 4.7kg was a right PITA to get right to get through cert with the droop / travel / compression carry on. Would have preferred 4kg in the rear for that reason, but limited options with the divorced spring. They are the BGRS x Swift AE86 Springs, which I got through Barry at MRP. The heavier springs in the rear would probably be better in an actual AE86 as my hardtop is probably a little lighter. Though it's pretty much a notchback anyway. Overall, would trade again with that combo.

Not too worried where it is, if that place is easiest then all good. Will be ken.

Use a hand nut driver in left hand for soft compounds and right hand for harder compounds. One click on old man wrist for correct torque.

My amp is half that doof, just running components though. But the power feed on the loom had me questioning things for a while. Ended up with aliexpress 4 way fuse box that runs standard spec blade fuses. I'll wire it in one day, it only just arrived in July...

If the amps run different sized wire, won't it be an issue if the fuse used at the battery is rated to more than what the smaller wire is? Maybe I wasted my time running amp + headunit as separate wires all the way to battery end. With a fuse on each of them rated accordingly. Or with the distro do you run individual fuses after the block and one at the battery end? My theory, right or wrong, was that a skinny wire will light up before a large fuse will trip, if the large fuse is protecting both wires. What say thee?

Just whip it out and add a rubber washer, bang it back in.

Pretty sure the manual mentions how long to wait before giving it another run. So i'd say just crappy duty cycle and pushing it would end in the world turning inside out.