Bling

Didn't get to the brakes today, got busy with the "rear end". Anyway, made this as I found my hose stash. Tube is a tight fit and given it shouldn't really be under any pressure due to open end i'm hoping it doesn't leak. Will bleed it in car and just rag underneath it.

Ah bugger, that's less than ideal.

Got it back yet? Tempted to get mine done, but wondering what it cost / timeframe?

Also interested to know that one. I've done it many times in the past in cars that are well worn in, never had a problem.

I think i'll go with a combo of jizzing fluid all over my bench, then putting it in under vacuum bleed. I still need to fabricate some brackets, but i'm being optimistic at getting the master in tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips gents.

Thanks for that, will chuck it in and try with bleeder first. A good plan A, and leaves a plan B as you say. Really don't want brake fluid everywhere as it's a tight spot to try clean up.

Haven't started with a dry system before, was just going off what was recommended. Something about having "fun" getting the air out when not bench bled. I have a vacuum bleeder, would that negate the need to bench bleed do you think?

Yeah watched a youtube video where they used some kit with fittings and hose to do that. I have bugger all bits lying around to achieve that. Seemed like a good method though as could do it in car. Wonder what pick-a-fart might have. Thanks its on the potential plans list.

Bench bleeding a master cylinder, what do I need to have in the ports for it to work? Plastic plugs (not threaded just dust things) that come with the unit or will there be shitloads of pressure when pumping it. Keen to get on to this tomorrow so just seeing if I need to plug it properly or not.

Seems safe enough to work with, lol... GHS Classification: H272 May intensify fire; oxidiser. H300 Fatal if swallowed. H310 Fatal in contact with skin. H314 Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. H330 Fatal if inhaled. H334 May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled.

Was minimum fee of $50inc

Six months since last update, feels like a year... Spent the last four months with a new member in the family so car time has suffered accordingly. Will keep it brief with a few pics. Have been working my arse off the last week or so to get the car back together. Lots to still do, but I finally have a window of time to get things done, so I have to get it done. Last update ended with lack of clearance between strut and wheel. It was the locking nut to be exact. I spent a long time working out spacer requirements and longer wheel studs needed etc. Problem with spacers is that it shift

I prefer castles so have a split pin assortment in stock. /Ling

Thanks for the info. Will stick with the current setup up in that case. If the underside of the parcel tray was flush i'd put in the required plates, but it's not close to being flush so easier option is to just leave as is. If I get time I may template it and see what the seatbelt shop have in stock.

Great thanks for clarifying that, one less thing to sort. I'll get some proper anchorage plates to replace what is in there currently though as I'm not 100% happy with current setup. Just good to know it's not something that will need to be to current specs. Cheers.