Bling

If those two jokers above can't sort it, find your car on Amayama (can use chassis number) and start adding things to your cart. When you have enough, submit it and they'll check what they can and can't get. My last two orders i've cancelled as they came back and said 90% of items were NLA. I've managed to get some parts though which no one else can source. One example was front side indicator lenses, NLA here but can get them off there for like $5-7 a pop. That was for a different car, but just illustrating it can be a lucky dip.

If it's just for testing, can't just hook it up to a car battery with the car running? Amp / sub would be more than a PSU (cheap, old one) would handle so flag that idea. /Just install them in the Datsun already, we won't judge.

I wired up an old PC power supply I had, put it in a box and ran a headunit with speakers etc. So unless you're talking about testing out woofers and the likes, i'd just pick up an old power supply and wire it accordingly. They have 12V power feeds and 5V feeds. So it's pretty easy to do. There are two wires you need to connect to fire it up, I think it's just a trigger and doesn't need to be a permanent connection, then away you go. Then you just used the 12V and ground wires as you would if it was a car. if that makes sense. Plenty of tutorials online these days. I don't remember exactly how I wired mine, but can try dig it out later.

https://www.toycrazy.net/index1.html Not sure if Mark did driveshaft comparisons. If anyone has though, it will be him, so check the site. @AE25

I have a hub I want to clean up, I'm assuming being from the 80's it will be cast steel? Is it safe to use the likes of evapo rust or whatever they can it, to dip it in to remove all of the surface rust? Just not keen on it being ruining since it keeps the wheels attached to the car. I just can't recall (and I've googled) which metals you can't use such products on. From memory it might have been high tensile parts. Just wondering if anything knows the go with this stuff? Next option is wire wheel but there are places that will be a nightmare to get the rust out of. TIA

For me if would be like being a bad gambler, and keeping track of losses. Bit nope for me. I think I roughly added up one (super rough) for the purposes of insurance. Ain't no one believing a car that age, looking like that costs that much to build again...

Yeah I just figured it might be a place to start to see about releasing the plate to be reissued. I get it's not going on the original bike. But I imagine it's NZTA who decides if a plate can be made available or not.

First post in here might help. It will at least be a good place to email first

Ask your certifier for their NDT form. I got mine welded and tested out of town and didn't know there was a form till he gave it to me, oops... It basically said what they were looking for test wise. They might all have different requirements though, but worth asking to save a headache later.

Yeah I'm sure those ones get it done. The ratchet ones are decent for sure. Now every time I see a crimp done before I got them as very average. So one day I'll redo those. One day... Doesn't help I forget the exact usage so have to watch a YouTube short on their best method each time. So many wasted terminals doing it not quite right.

Whooping cough all over the place here, and they are too busy to test unless you're already fucked. So i'll sit this one out in case one of the sprogs coughs is actually the bad one.

If you have small enough pliers i'm sure you can get it done. I also rock Aliex crimpers which have a bunch of jaws, use them on everything so was a good investment.

Working on that whip I hope! Waiting on plumber to install water filter at mine and some other jobs, before I can move my car back to be worked on. That's my excuse for not working on mine right now anyway.

That's along the same lines of not losing cover if WOF / REGO not current, unless something contributed to the accident that wasn't up to WOF spec. Just have to keep in mind why adjustable arms and the likes need a cert, because they can be made out of cheese. Or made from inappropriate parts that are not acceptable here, but in Florida for example cheese is likely acceptable so long as it doesn't breach EPA rules.

I went to Ryco site to sort fitment then using the "garage" feature on SCA it said the Penrite was equiv. I'm sure they will all be in the ballpark, it's nothing special engine wise.