Bling

Are we talking full on race spec, or could it potentially pass a WOF? Just driving to get a WOF, officer.

Great info, will check those products when on pc thanks. Was actually looking at the Teroson wax earlier as I have a local spray store that sells it.

Sweet sounds like a plan, epoxy and i'll look into cavity wax options. Cheers.

What do people paint into the backside of panels to protect from rust? On roof for example on underside where door frames meet roof. Bottoms of doors on inside etc Clean then epoxy primer going to be a good solution? I'm brushing everything, so anywhere I can't physically brush i'll likely zinc spray. But where I can brush, i'm thinking epoxy will offer better protection. But not sure if other products are better suited for that job.

If the underseal is solid as fuck, i'd probably 2 pot the lot, then underseal it all. Would want to be sure moisture can't get in from behind mind you. Don't want it rusting from the inside out.

Shit, he found me, i'll know a bit closer to the time.

Whip it out and see if serviceable? I didn't find mine too bad to do, circlips and swearing, sorted. Had a tiny build up of dirt, once cleaned, balanced perfectly.

Proportioning valve jizzed up perhaps. Have had that twice before.

Oh yeah and something i've done on the "big chobs" is cut out a smaller section, and replace that, even if the edge is rusty. Then cut slightly into the new repair, and extend the hole to remove more of the rusty area. If that makes sense. Rinse and repeat. Means that on areas where getting the original shape back might be hard, it's easy. As you're only replacing small bits at a time, while the cars shape doesn't change as the previous repair holds it together. I've had to do this quite a bit, as doing it in one piece would be near impossible to recreate the original section as it was. tl;dr: don't always try replace a whole area in one hit, small bites works well.

All of the rust repairs i've done on current car are rusty lap joints. So I would lean towards butt joint as there is nowhere for water to get in. Butt join is more work, as fitment has to be pretty close. But i'd consider it a better method. Everyone is going to have different strokes though. Whatever you do, coat it all to stop moisture getting to it again. And as someone mentioned, if wanting long term fix, you'll need to cut more out till there isn't rust on the edge of the patch. Cut it out till you have good solid metal to work with.

I seem to recall @Truenotch mounting a small one under his race car seat, or something similar. Might not be him though... /Ling out

People pay good money to get lock like that glad it's sort, probably an original part do you think?

Put a T in the line and put half the fluid back into the tank?

Make this step one of the process.

Are they tuning it too? Like on an engine dyno or something fancy.