Bling

Still fixing rust, waiting to get my CO2 cylinder back before I can continue with that side of things. Enough rust in this thread so will keep that progress to a minimum. Bit of boot rust to sort, one corner example. Tacked up, have since finished this ready for primer/fill/paint. Doors are next, had some sheet folded up to have a nice straight bottom edge on the doors. Was going to patch it in sections, but it would take longer and i'd likely have ended up with an averagely not straight edge. Before: With new section clamped in place, no gas = no metal gluing. Etch primed some bits with Zinc-It, then black Zinc-It on top. It's not as good as epoxy primer and a top coat. But all the parts are sound enough that I just wanted to tidy them up, will last for years anyway. Plus some parts like hub faces, steering knuckles, I don't want thick paint layers on. I don't spray the epoxy, so brushing on doesn't really suit. Bits: I need to knuckle down and get rust sorted by the end of the holiday (funnily enough that's what I said about a year ago...). I have most of the parts needed now, just need to paint the engine cross-member and get that installed back in. Then I can reinstall all of the front end, sway bar, steering rack etc. All bushes up front have been redone. Pressed in new ball joints this week, wheel bearings are next. The brake disc bolts to the rear of the hub, so I need to have the brakes all finished first, as I don't want to take the hub off once bearings are in. Still a huge list of things to do. Snookered myself with the brakes as I can't roll the car on 13's up front anymore with the discs installed. Can't roll it without them either as it will mean the hub is installed with no brakes and will have to come to bits again. On the hunt for a pair of 15's to get me rolling. Wheels aren't finished being polished yet. But if I can get them done by xmas I will hopefully get some tyres thrown on and have it moving again. Anyway, a smaller teaser to finish off 2019.

Handy to know about not needing a rego on the cert plate. I will PM you.

Youtube it, will be covered for sure. I have a curly one. Car is going for cert at some point, I want a different plate on it that it currently has. Can't get new plates made or put on to car till it is licensed. Can't get licensed till WOF'd. Can't get WOF till get cert, don't want old plate on cert plate. Currently only have one PP as it was on a trailer. Boom. Will this be a case of paying for a new cert plate the day after it's installed? Will try my luck with Licensys, but it doesn't seem like the sort of system that has wiggle room.

I bet Joker won't even show up after all this

What year do you think it would be? Not sure if serious. Reported? I lol'd

Get on Facebook old man, 15th, I swear I copied it across, server says no.

Christchurch Old School Monthly Meet - December 2019 11:30 AM – 1:30 PM Last meet for the year our Christmas BBQ at the Ouruhia domain on marshlands road. Bring along some meat to cook up and be prepared for some epic new sharns or meet some new people. Look forward to seeing you all there!! https://www.facebook.com/events/427989424560727/

Certifier fills in parts of the form as required, so even if you can download it, that won't work. Speak to the certifier you wish to use and go from there, much easier if you get them on board before you do anything.

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipment/jacks/mechpro-vehicle-positioning-jacks-mpvpj2/p/A1282493 $229 on spesh for the jacking ones currently

I haven't looked into it TBH, but the seam sealers should say what they will withstand. The likes of brake fluid and the likes, they seem pretty hardy but you'd want to check all specs. It was mainly as a precaution to stop any chance of stripper getting in there, or water for that matter. If you can exclude that 20mm area from being affected that is probably the best bet. Is the current paint that bad you need to paint strip all areas? I'm prepping a few areas, but if the paint holds after giving it a good going over, i'm going to leave it as is. 99% of my rust repairs have been due to moisture getting between panels in seams. So i'll just be encasing all mine (either epoxy primer or fish oil (forget the non fish option name currently) as I repair them and not treating seams with any chemicals / acids at all. The oil will be for all areas I can't get into.

Can you prep and seam seal the areas you'll be working on? Capillary action between layers means shit will get drawn in further than you'll ever be able to clean out. Might be able to get seam sealer that is solvent resistance and so would stand up to the rest of your work. You'd still need to be super careful around the seams though.

Good turn out for sure, Prince Charles popping past was my second favourite bit. But it wasn't close to first, burger FTW

Not all of us drive around above the clouds m9

Yeah not that Ken if it's going to be pissing down /worse, stupid weather!

Will be in the shitty daily as per usual. Car wouldn't start to go for a WOF, then when it would they were booked, ran out of time / motivations. Edit - I didn't think the check forecast, looks like a shit storm will be hitting