Bling

VIRM should cover the rust thresholds. Must have too much spare time if you're cruising around for a war over a rusty car.

Well Xmas break was a bust, ended up finding more and more rust to fix. Not that I care, I knew it was an 80's Toyota from day one. Just means the goal posts are shifted as to when it will be legal. Hoping to have it sorted for Nats. Have been slowly chipping away at it, slowly filling a container will rusty bits of car. My shrinker / stretcher has been pretty useful, makes creating curved sections much easier. Anyway, some pics of some of the repairs. No point posting the photos of all repairs, as ain't no one got time for that. Still have a many repairs to do, just need to pull finger as paint drying outside is going to be a pain come winter. This update is basically just showing my rust repairs, which is all i've done on the car since last update. Making a new rain gutter section for bottom of A-pillar. Decent surface rust that got 2-3 layers deep in some areas. Replaced with single piece. Boot latch, seal traps water above the latch. Rusted out of my other car too, so out it came. Finished section, with boot frame pieces also cut. Doesn't look pretty, but it's all welded up now, and solid as fuck, so whatever works. Drivers side boot above tail light area, other side had similar repairs. Not much was left original, I just had to replace it a section at a time, to keep the original shape as best I could. Passenger side boot hinge area Drivers side boot hinge area, or at least what was left after removing the "structural" rubber seal. This took a bit of planning, as I had to make a section that didn't exist. Just imagine someone getting frustrated and spending hours on the stretcher/shrinker having not much luck. A lot of this area is 2-3 layers thick and attaches to supports underneath. I'll have to tidy the underside up later. Not many progress pics of this bit, no time for pics when frustrated. Transfer the curve on to paper, then put folded sections into stretcher/shrinker to curve to shape to form half the gutter. And just like that it was done, so simple.... Random repair found above tail light, viewed from boot floor.. Mayte, just tack some sheet on and fold it under, no one will ever see it. There is perhaps 5% of the original boot seal area left, it has all been cut out in sections and replaced. Was just going to replace the worst bits, but the further I got into it, the further I realised the whole lot was beyond a wire wheel and paint job. Latest repair, which I have been putting off due to the consequences of fucking it up. Basically a section below the C pillar had been replaced, i'm thinking this is related to big repairs in the rear passenger side boot area. The repair was done in such a way that any moisture running down the inside of the C pillar would pool on the repair. So of course this rusted quite nicely. Couldn't see it from the outside, I found it from inside, with my inspection camera as no way to physically get to it. It was still solid, but eventually it would start to rust on the exterior and require fixing. So that is some of the repairs, but certainly not all of them. Need to tidy up a lot of the welds ready for epoxy primer. So will be doing that over the next month, with the intention of having it all sealed up ready for filler and paint. In between repairs i'm doing my homework on what parts i'll need to get it back on the road. Bit of a boring update, but rust gonna rust.

Shit me, that is impressive.

Don't they throw rocks at oncoming cars? Certainly seems like the next thing to be cracked down on.

If it's not broke...

I had been using a different link previously, this one, which is linked on page 2: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf I guess the document has been updated since then though. Also found it linked of this wheel site: http://ssawheel.co.nz/technical_id_69.html so I guess people need to update their links. I'm lazy so just used google and came up with the dead links. Will go via the site next time. When visiting the old link (above) the "home page" link doesn't work, so that's why I thought it was gone.

@datlow I'd rock Teddies 100%. Will be interesting to see what changes. Camber would be a good one to see some more allowance for. I think they dropped a nuke on what was allowed, due to some people just taking the piss with camber. A more gentle approach could have worked I'm sure. But I wouldn't have a clue where to start with writing that up. If the rules change so that my new rims don't comply I'm selling up and off knitting. Was just checking the limitations for 14's were as bad as I remembered.

Legend, saved it this time haha.

Anyone got a current source for the wheel / tyre stuff? LVVTA site seems down for the information and most other links are dead. I knew I should have saved it!

They perhaps limit numbers so the reserve has a chance to survive all the leaked oil. If I didn't have to deal with extra traffic on the road to Akaroa I would have popped over for a look. /lazy

Rather than a welding class, get someone to show you how to do the basics. Welding in panels isn't too hard. Not sure what area you are in, but i'm sure someone will be willing to show you the ropes. Happy to lend a hand in that regard, i'm not panel work master though. Being able to buy panels is quite the luxury!

Sell it and make it someone elses problem. Looks pretty fucked to me. But i'm used to dealing with tin can thickness rust, not whole chassis encased in rust spec stuff.

Seems a bit vague? Wiper blades? Engine?

Getting it TIG'd on will for sure be the best way to go. Just throwing ideas around like there is no tomorrow. Out of interest though, would TIG put less heat in than MIG if just doing spots?

How does that bracket work? Could use flat bar combined with the bolts on the front. Or clamps off here https://www.anzor.co.nz/tube-pipe-fittings