Bling

Not steel, but when I used to braise copper pipe where it went into a building, i'd wrap a wet rag around the pipe which stopped any heat getting past it. I can't comment on how the electrons will react to a wet rag, but I feel like if you had one tucked in against the exterior panel and in that wheel arch lip on the right, it would help a lot. I've only ever done MIG on my cars and a single spot weld in one area, then moving to another area to put one does keep the heat down a lot. Just my thoughts anyway, i'm sure others have done very similar jobs to yours. Only mentioning it as the wet rag wrapped around the pipe was a very simple solution but worked perfectly.

I have some brunox you can have if you don't already have some.

What about an model airbrush? Too small?

Ah, I never thought to wear pants, fuck.

Your eyes can absorb the good stuff faster than other areas. So you really want to protect them in some way as much as your breathing. I considered it cheap insurance when I was doing my project to get a full mask, they seem a lot more spendy when I just did a quick look though. I wasn't spraying, but was brushing on 2k epoxy in tight spaces so got one for that reason. I use the same mask when i'm chemical spraying my roof too, just need new filters every time I do that job.

Just lift the pipe up to be nice and clear of that spot welded seam, that seems like a can of worms that once opened, you're not closing back up again. For bonus points, panel beat the inside edge over like that factory one on the right hand side for strength. Cutting into that radiator support will be bad news i'm sure. Tune in a 6pm for the latest news from Clint.

If there was an option to put that hole inside the bus, I would do that. I would then just add a bung after doing the cavity wax. Trying to fill a hole after spraying the cavity with wax just doesn't sound ideal to me. I can't comment from a structural point of view, but don't imagine a few 8mm holes here and there is going to compromise the structure? It's really hard to say without seeing what you can see, what the best way to do it is. You mentioned not knowing where the structure is from inside, so there is that problem. But I would personally always try put the whole somewhere water isn't going to get to. 2c.

Check pricing for similar cars on trademe, then list it there to net the best price.

You can check online if you still own a vehicle. Or the NZTA has a phone app if you want to be hip and stuff.

What it can mean is that any fines, rego and the likes will still be your responsibility if the other party also didn't fill in any paperwork. If they did and it's no longer showing under your ownership, probably no big deal. Bit hard to dispute a 12 month rego bill if the car rego is left to lapse if you haven't done that bit. If you have proof of change of ownership, then you have to convince anyone chasing you for money, that you sold it. Changing in online (super easy and quick) tends to remove the need to do those things.

What solution are you after? Others have used methods mentioned in this thread and it sorted it for them. This thread must be the first result in google for hiace seat removal as so many from around the world posting in here. The internet being useful for once.

Yeah my bad it looked a lot closer on my phone. I had used that site before for my cars and it seemed to match up.

I wonder how different they went for different markets. Engine bay looks a lot closer to this than the exterior does. https://importarchive.com/toyota/crown/1971.5-1972

Was the battery replaced or just recharged after going dead? Just out of interest as batteries don't like that and any car that cares about battery health may be unhappy.

Nan