Tumeke

Paid. Fizzing etc.

Pointless update: On the way to Nat's I noticed a pretty bad brake judder at highway speeds and thought I should 'prolly do something about it. Diagnosis by default was warped disc etc, however, to eliminate this I pulled the handbrake (Gentle, Mavis...) at highway speed and got vibration. So, we have rear brake issues. Upon a bit of inspection, it appears the design of the Buick mag had a slightly different dish than the original steels, so it was clamping down on the drum outer rather than standard lug grabbing points. Two options to remedy - pull of drums and machine down high points - which would be nice If i had a mill - and due to the high points being the outer balance points (and balanced by drilling) I didn't want to hit them with an angle grinder in case it made the balancing worse. The easy way out was to get a 3mm alloy spacer. RAGE (Rough as Guts Engineering services) at your service Ma'am. Of course, easy is relative - the one's on the tard didn't fit the prescribed 5x127mm (5x5") so I modified some others I had lying around. Joined the Humber club a while ago although hadn't done any events with them until a couple of Sunday's ago an opportunity came up to do a drive to Manawhai via SH16. This fitted in quite well after Caffeine & Classics and I was already over the bridge so thought why not. By default I was certainly the whipper snapper of the group by a couple of decades minimum - however great sharns all round. The trip north was best described as tortoiselike, maxing out at a heady 80km on the downhills with a constant cloud of blue smoke on the over-run from all parties. Lush. Had lunch and a cup of tea at the museum then visited a beach and did skids. (One of the previous things didn't happen) My favourite new Barry was Mavis (Ann Dimoline) who owns 9. Have a read about her here. The current compendium, each nicknamed by Ann, reads: 1965 Humber Sceptre Mark I (Opo); 1966 Humber Sceptre Mark II (Pearl); 1961 Hillman Minx 111b station wagon (Chanel); 1962 Humber 80 111b station wagon (Toto); 1963 Hillman Super Minx saloon Mark II (BT); 1966 Singer Gazelle Series 6 Auto (Tommy); 1954 Humber 10 MK 7A (Babe); and 1974 Commer pop-top camper (George). What an absolute battler. Anne to the left with her Humber 80 Wags named Toto I bless the rains down in Africa - Gonna take some time to do the things we never had and collection of swarming Barrys. A fave to be sure - what a great wag - and a daily too - loaded with tools for Robertybob Handyman services. Otherwise no updates right now, however I have a couple of subtle upgrades in the pipeline, however a few other projects on the boil means they may be in warmer weather. Otherwise long may she continue being a workhorse and doing what car's are meant to be doing - driving and stuff. Yesterday delivering latest 'investments' to storage for even more future work. Peace y'all.

I'll bite. How much?

Regamastrated. Fizzing at the bung etc. All I need now is a Lotto win and I'll be in a position to drive @yoeddynz's lush Viva wags/hatch home. (First time caller / long time piner etc)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/personalised-plates/auction-1347006420.htm I read it wrong.

Shit yes. Awesome. Planning on using your services a fair bit once she's running - seen what you can do with throttle bodies - awesome result. The whole engine bay looks like the Exxon Valdez used it as a port for a while .

Small update - trying other stuffs: As previously mentioned, engine is running rich enough to kill a set of plugs in a few minutes. The metering unit requires vacuum to control fuel supply. Not enough vacuum = rich. There are three throttle bodies, each used for vacuum supply. 1/2 = dizzy advance, 3/4 = metering unit, 5/6 = vacuum reservoir then to brake master via one way valve. For those playing along at home, the screw on the end is the idle control. In/out etc. You can check if your butterfly's are closing correctly by jamming your finger over it. Stall = good. So, checked throttle bodies for leaks, including balancing pipes, other pipes etc. All seemed ok. Possibly small shaft leakage but I'll leave that for now. Threw a vacuum gauge off a T inline and got a bouncing reading under 6hg. Not good. Factory says 10-12hg. Checked other throttle bodies - same deal. I'd previously checked the tappets with @Threeonthetree and we reset to factory 10 thou just the other day. Then it struck me - has someone put a more aggressive cam in this? A bit of research suggested it might have something like a Piper fast road cam. Opened up the top and changed clearances to 16 thou. Reconnected vacuum gauge and what do you know. 12hg. God knows what cam i've got - this is gonna make setting things up more interesting Anyway, now with the correct vacuum the metering unit has the prescribed travel on the control link (see previous post for pic) but, alas, it was still running too rich. Had a think about adjusting the xmas tree of fuel delivery on the metering unit but knew this might be a tad out of my skill set so tried something a little more creative. Knowing there was likely some wear on the follower and control links of the metering unit, I decided to sacrifice some feeler gauges. Warmed the car up, and slowly started increasing size between the follower and roller on the control link until maximum idle was achieved without stalling the car - the theory that this was backing off the fuel cam. Got to 18 thou and found what I assumed was a sweet spot so cut the gauge in half, stuck it in the metering unit and road tested. Findings so far : car not as rich at idle now = win! Car now has no top end pull = lose. Next steps: Back of the gap a bit more between the control roller and follower and try and find a compromise between idle and full noise, check ignition advance, play with fuel load fuel setting screw. PI Lyfe.

Lil more progress however she's running oh-so-rich - to the point that I keep fowling plugs / black smokes. Been through a few plugs now trying to diagnose. I reset the max fuel screw to factory spec on the metering unit and fluffed about with trying to balance the throttle bodies. These could do with a bit more work, but I don't think they are out enough to cause this kind of enrichment. Also, overfuel/choke lever is resetting per guidelines. Blew the over-fuel return clear with the compressor, and then checked for vacuum pressure to metering unit - which seemed a bit low - however I might have also fowled a plug in this process. Did a compression check and all around the 160 mark which I would consider healthy. Did a dort sans bonnet up the road So, next steps (and yes - please comment/suggest) are : Double check ignition side - try another coil in case it's weak, replace/clean plugs again, test lead resistance,. Vacuum to Metering Unit: more vacuum diagnosis across all three sets to see if any difference with side of metering unit to check travel. Metering Unit: Double check fuel pressure with another gauge, then if that all turns pull metering unit again, replace all seals / rebuild and/or start playing with calibration adjustments under top cone of metering unit. (I don't want to do this.... see below) Also - all o-rings at both injector end and metering unit end could also play into problems.

Spent some time on the weekend with the help of @kempy with good results. Some of the stuff I remember: Changed one-way valves on injector pump, cleaned points, bled injectors, replaced injector, adjusted fuel regulator to 110psi pressure, cleared return line, adjusted overfuel lever, replaced 6 (yes 6) totally dead spark plugs, re-timed and marked ignition, swapped distributors, lost all the hair on my arms and temporary hearing whilst fireball from backfire on intake gave @Geophy and @Threeonthetree a good laugh (possibly due to me holding a can of engine start that was also on fire) and then started car. Next steps - sounds like slight miss on one cylinder but no cooling system plumbed in, so, reinstall radiator, tweak, and do skids / road test / fix all the other stuff I find broke. Finally making progress = win.

Post Nats update: Tightened front left wheel bearing, rolled guards a bit more, installed oil, de-greased some bits, changed polarity of windscreen washer so that it squirts instead of sucks. Will remember to take pics next time. Things to do: Fix brake shudder. Still driving it lots. Weekend jaunt on some closed roads (it said ROAD CLOSED AHEAD, not road closed....) around the Clevedon coast with some OSGCs.

Nats Update: Drove Car. Rolled Guards Met GCs Did a skids Did a skids again and runded over a cone Went to the Warehouse Trained. Parked. Good trip. Would trade again. A+

Nats Prep: Oil changed. The Warehouse currently has a special on for 4 litres of 20w50 for $15.00 each. Not fancy oil - just Caltex Havoline. Soon as I brought this I inherited many half used oils from @Mr Burns so effectively a free oil change apart from filter. Warehouse oil will be used next time. Seam sealed the rear leaking window rubber, replaced a 6x9 I blew due to not porting the boot, ported the boot with an ali trumpet, and applied some bling. @Threeonthetree sent me a Facepalm marketplace link for some wheels. 1960's Buick Riviera / Skylark etc in 5x5". They need to be restored at some point, but they had pretty much brand new tyres and some gangsta appeal. Cruised over the the shore and picked them up. Bargain at $300. Filled car up - we ready to go. Car now looks more suitably oldschool: Bigger profile, bigger width. Cruises at 100 much nicer now. Subtle lowering (Makita 'bro) after Nats. Chur.

Yep - that's how we did it - but a screwdriver as I had no straw..... If memory serves me correct we lined this all up, but then to start the thing I have to advance the dizzy like 30 degrees. It then only runs on three cylinders suggesting the timing for the injector pump is well out as it is getting spark. @Threeonthetree memory is possibly better than mine?

Went back last night. Something is not right.... New theory - anyone had this kinda thing below happen? (Interweb pic - not mine) or has the key just fallen out / shattered? Discuss!