Tumeke

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Everything posted by Tumeke

  1. Pointless update: On the way to Nat's I noticed a pretty bad brake judder at highway speeds and thought I should 'prolly do something about it. Diagnosis by default was warped disc etc, however, to eliminate this I pulled the handbrake (Gentle, Mavis...) at highway speed and got vibration. So, we have rear brake issues. Upon a bit of inspection, it appears the design of the Buick mag had a slightly different dish than the original steels, so it was clamping down on the drum outer rather than standard lug grabbing points. Two options to remedy - pull of drums and machine down high points - which would be nice If i had a mill - and due to the high points being the outer balance points (and balanced by drilling) I didn't want to hit them with an angle grinder in case it made the balancing worse. The easy way out was to get a 3mm alloy spacer. RAGE (Rough as Guts Engineering services) at your service Ma'am. Of course, easy is relative - the one's on the tard didn't fit the prescribed 5x127mm (5x5") so I modified some others I had lying around. Joined the Humber club a while ago although hadn't done any events with them until a couple of Sunday's ago an opportunity came up to do a drive to Manawhai via SH16. This fitted in quite well after Caffeine & Classics and I was already over the bridge so thought why not. By default I was certainly the whipper snapper of the group by a couple of decades minimum - however great sharns all round. The trip north was best described as tortoiselike, maxing out at a heady 80km on the downhills with a constant cloud of blue smoke on the over-run from all parties. Lush. Had lunch and a cup of tea at the museum then visited a beach and did skids. (One of the previous things didn't happen) My favourite new Barry was Mavis (Ann Dimoline) who owns 9. Have a read about her here. The current compendium, each nicknamed by Ann, reads: 1965 Humber Sceptre Mark I (Opo); 1966 Humber Sceptre Mark II (Pearl); 1961 Hillman Minx 111b station wagon (Chanel); 1962 Humber 80 111b station wagon (Toto); 1963 Hillman Super Minx saloon Mark II (BT); 1966 Singer Gazelle Series 6 Auto (Tommy); 1954 Humber 10 MK 7A (Babe); and 1974 Commer pop-top camper (George). What an absolute battler. Anne to the left with her Humber 80 Wags named Toto I bless the rains down in Africa - Gonna take some time to do the things we never had and collection of swarming Barrys. A fave to be sure - what a great wag - and a daily too - loaded with tools for Robertybob Handyman services. Otherwise no updates right now, however I have a couple of subtle upgrades in the pipeline, however a few other projects on the boil means they may be in warmer weather. Otherwise long may she continue being a workhorse and doing what car's are meant to be doing - driving and stuff. Yesterday delivering latest 'investments' to storage for even more future work. Peace y'all.
  2. Granddad spec 1962 Super snipe purchased a few months ago. The 'ol Slumber is reasonably advanced for '62 with power assisted front discs, a hemi'ish head that makes casual observers by think there is more than one cam going on. Drive is through 3 on the tree. Plenty of torque - she can be left in top gear most of the time and pulls from pretty much standstill to motorway speeds. She's no lightweight track car though. 15ft 8" long, 1544 kgs and an oil change will take 15 pints or 8.5 litres. The paint looks like it's possibly house enamel, so I expect 40 seasons out of it, which is good as it has the usual 'nice from afar, far from nice' thing going on. There's minimal rust as the old boy I purchased it off seems to have sorted most of that out. Interior is glorious red stuff. Possibly leather but unlikely and lashings of walnut veneer. Picnic tables in the back for tea parties / lines of Raro etc. Since I've picked her up I've done a few things which I'll blog about with photos in the near future. So far : - Changed to negative earth so the pixies run the right way for radios and stuff. - Given her indicators on a stalk rather than the toggle switch that was cable tied under the dash - Found the horn relay (this took a lot of time...) and made it all horny - Re-upholstered the front seat to stop all the foam falling out from underneath and my ass sitting on the frame - Fitted a stereo, speakers and a sub - Made head and air come inside the cabin other than from that of the engine - Made it run on 6 cylinders - rebuilt the fuel pump Few other items on the agenda. Probably won't be slammed as it's quite nice to full her with 6 people and go for a cruise without loosing the exhaust. So, watch this space.
  3. I'll bite. How much?
  4. Regamastrated. Fizzing at the bung etc. All I need now is a Lotto win and I'll be in a position to drive @yoeddynz's lush Viva wags/hatch home. (First time caller / long time piner etc)
  5. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/personalised-plates/auction-1347006420.htm I read it wrong.
  6. Tell me stuffs for the Trumpet here. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/55641-tumekes-25-pi-trumpet/ Trumpet Build Threads
  7. Shit yes. Awesome. Planning on using your services a fair bit once she's running - seen what you can do with throttle bodies - awesome result. The whole engine bay looks like the Exxon Valdez used it as a port for a while .
  8. One British car is stupid. 2 is more stupidist. 1972 Triumph 2.5 PI with 4 speeds and a switch to make some more speeds. Purchased of the tardme for much less than advertised on account of it not working. Was a deceased estate so little information about the not working could be given. Did ascertain that money has been spent, and there is receipts for new metering units and the like. Has been repainted, and clear is blistering in places. There's rust in the front guard, back D pillar window frame and back valance. Spares panels are were supplied with the car but are yet to be collected. So far I've looked for some spark, found it, then lost it, then found it again. I have had it running on some cylinders but not the prescribed 6. So far suspect the coil is a bit average, and probably lots of other things. The main problem, however, is that I think it's been Barried, so nothing can be taken for granted and a full going over needs to happen once I can get the thing to run. All help will be accepted, and I'm sure someone will set up a discussion topic thing for me cause I don't know how.
  9. Small update - trying other stuffs: As previously mentioned, engine is running rich enough to kill a set of plugs in a few minutes. The metering unit requires vacuum to control fuel supply. Not enough vacuum = rich. There are three throttle bodies, each used for vacuum supply. 1/2 = dizzy advance, 3/4 = metering unit, 5/6 = vacuum reservoir then to brake master via one way valve. For those playing along at home, the screw on the end is the idle control. In/out etc. You can check if your butterfly's are closing correctly by jamming your finger over it. Stall = good. So, checked throttle bodies for leaks, including balancing pipes, other pipes etc. All seemed ok. Possibly small shaft leakage but I'll leave that for now. Threw a vacuum gauge off a T inline and got a bouncing reading under 6hg. Not good. Factory says 10-12hg. Checked other throttle bodies - same deal. I'd previously checked the tappets with @Threeonthetree and we reset to factory 10 thou just the other day. Then it struck me - has someone put a more aggressive cam in this? A bit of research suggested it might have something like a Piper fast road cam. Opened up the top and changed clearances to 16 thou. Reconnected vacuum gauge and what do you know. 12hg. God knows what cam i've got - this is gonna make setting things up more interesting Anyway, now with the correct vacuum the metering unit has the prescribed travel on the control link (see previous post for pic) but, alas, it was still running too rich. Had a think about adjusting the xmas tree of fuel delivery on the metering unit but knew this might be a tad out of my skill set so tried something a little more creative. Knowing there was likely some wear on the follower and control links of the metering unit, I decided to sacrifice some feeler gauges. Warmed the car up, and slowly started increasing size between the follower and roller on the control link until maximum idle was achieved without stalling the car - the theory that this was backing off the fuel cam. Got to 18 thou and found what I assumed was a sweet spot so cut the gauge in half, stuck it in the metering unit and road tested. Findings so far : car not as rich at idle now = win! Car now has no top end pull = lose. Next steps: Back of the gap a bit more between the control roller and follower and try and find a compromise between idle and full noise, check ignition advance, play with fuel load fuel setting screw. PI Lyfe.
  10. Lil more progress however she's running oh-so-rich - to the point that I keep fowling plugs / black smokes. Been through a few plugs now trying to diagnose. I reset the max fuel screw to factory spec on the metering unit and fluffed about with trying to balance the throttle bodies. These could do with a bit more work, but I don't think they are out enough to cause this kind of enrichment. Also, overfuel/choke lever is resetting per guidelines. Blew the over-fuel return clear with the compressor, and then checked for vacuum pressure to metering unit - which seemed a bit low - however I might have also fowled a plug in this process. Did a compression check and all around the 160 mark which I would consider healthy. Did a dort sans bonnet up the road So, next steps (and yes - please comment/suggest) are : Double check ignition side - try another coil in case it's weak, replace/clean plugs again, test lead resistance,. Vacuum to Metering Unit: more vacuum diagnosis across all three sets to see if any difference with side of metering unit to check travel. Metering Unit: Double check fuel pressure with another gauge, then if that all turns pull metering unit again, replace all seals / rebuild and/or start playing with calibration adjustments under top cone of metering unit. (I don't want to do this.... see below) Also - all o-rings at both injector end and metering unit end could also play into problems.
  11. Spent some time on the weekend with the help of @kempy with good results. Some of the stuff I remember: Changed one-way valves on injector pump, cleaned points, bled injectors, replaced injector, adjusted fuel regulator to 110psi pressure, cleared return line, adjusted overfuel lever, replaced 6 (yes 6) totally dead spark plugs, re-timed and marked ignition, swapped distributors, lost all the hair on my arms and temporary hearing whilst fireball from backfire on intake gave @Geophy and @Threeonthetree a good laugh (possibly due to me holding a can of engine start that was also on fire) and then started car. Next steps - sounds like slight miss on one cylinder but no cooling system plumbed in, so, reinstall radiator, tweak, and do skids / road test / fix all the other stuff I find broke. Finally making progress = win.
  12. Post Nats update: Tightened front left wheel bearing, rolled guards a bit more, installed oil, de-greased some bits, changed polarity of windscreen washer so that it squirts instead of sucks. Will remember to take pics next time. Things to do: Fix brake shudder. Still driving it lots. Weekend jaunt on some closed roads (it said ROAD CLOSED AHEAD, not road closed....) around the Clevedon coast with some OSGCs.
  13. Nats Update: Drove Car. Rolled Guards Met GCs Did a skids Did a skids again and runded over a cone Went to the Warehouse Trained. Parked. Good trip. Would trade again. A+
  14. Nats Prep: Oil changed. The Warehouse currently has a special on for 4 litres of 20w50 for $15.00 each. Not fancy oil - just Caltex Havoline. Soon as I brought this I inherited many half used oils from @Mr Burns so effectively a free oil change apart from filter. Warehouse oil will be used next time. Seam sealed the rear leaking window rubber, replaced a 6x9 I blew due to not porting the boot, ported the boot with an ali trumpet, and applied some bling. @Threeonthetree sent me a Facepalm marketplace link for some wheels. 1960's Buick Riviera / Skylark etc in 5x5". They need to be restored at some point, but they had pretty much brand new tyres and some gangsta appeal. Cruised over the the shore and picked them up. Bargain at $300. Filled car up - we ready to go. Car now looks more suitably oldschool: Bigger profile, bigger width. Cruises at 100 much nicer now. Subtle lowering (Makita 'bro) after Nats. Chur.
  15. Yep - that's how we did it - but a screwdriver as I had no straw..... If memory serves me correct we lined this all up, but then to start the thing I have to advance the dizzy like 30 degrees. It then only runs on three cylinders suggesting the timing for the injector pump is well out as it is getting spark. @Threeonthetree memory is possibly better than mine?
  16. Went back last night. Something is not right.... New theory - anyone had this kinda thing below happen? (Interweb pic - not mine) or has the key just fallen out / shattered? Discuss!
  17. Pulled some stuffs off on the weekend to have a wee look at timing and other such things. Something wasn't quite right when checking the timing of the fuel metering unit (to manual specifications) so pulled the dizzy out and found things to be off from where should be Fudged stuff about for a long period of time and made the dizzy dog line up to 12 o'clock and the metering unit injector # 6 position to be within the satisfactory limit, and the dizzy rotor to be at number 1 lead for timing at TDC compression stroke. Then flushed through injectors again, all worked (some a bit temperamental but ok with a good smack) Then managed to started car. It did kinda start with a bit of ether up it, but not running properly. Rotated the dizzy and got it to stay running. Feels like the timing marks on the pulley are wrong..? Didn't have a timing light to check any further into that. Got it running on 4-5 of a possible 6. Still, progress I think. Tonight I'll try to put a timing light on it, replace a couple of injectors with more reliable spares and see what happens then. You, too can tell me how the TC is much more reliable, like everyone at the European British car show, by clicking here.
  18. Red ones go faster. Goes without saying really.
  19. Yep, although also noticed from research that Haynes incorrectly published the wrong picture.... Wont be making that mistake when I do that next
  20. @BLIZZO Did your thing last night - got all injectors doing the spray thing. Had to blow a couple out on the compressor @ 70psi . Some how managed to smash a dizzy rotor into 4 bits. Also noticed there was another broken one in the boot. Not sure if it's cause the cap wasn't aligned properly or would this be a sign of a dodgy dizzy? Still no brum brum. @locost_bryan IS the Lucas stuff Chinese now you reckon?I have a spare dizzy cap at home to narrow that down and can flog the rotor off the Humber to see if that works. Both of which are newish from http://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/ - not sure where their Lucas stuff comes from?!
  21. Pretty much what I had in mind, soon as I can find the sparks. I think we found them on the weekend but by that time I'd flooded her, so will pop in (maybe tonight) and see if she'll fire Not sure that the stater motor will last five minutes though - #lucasprinceofdarkness
  22. Sweet, @chris r can do that for me while I stick your 1 tonner back together? #deal
  23. Jeepers. Lots of pixies running about on circuit boards is pretty scary, that's why I have oldschool cars! I'm all about the plug and play!
  24. @michaelme Fraid not - Not running, and if it was, driving two cars is really hard. However if someone has a trailer we could bring it in and work on it, and get every second Barry's expert opinion as to why it's not running? @Threeonthetree 's suggestion I think!