tortron

Front indicators are kinda lacking. No provision in the bumper for normal l200 lamps. Some had them behind the grill. So I did something similar Quite bright. Now to never use them because Auckland

Positive switched headlamp circuit?

I recommend me in Papakura

Drove it outside Carbs are apparently perfectly balanced from bench setting them. Which I don't believe, but the needles rise equally throughout the rev range. Fuel floats needed setting. I'm running a pair of MOW needles which are what I was told to use/someone else was using already. I set up my innovate lc1 wideband but it won't connect to my surface pro. Lights up to say it's heating but no connection. Might need an ancient laptop to connect? I think it's in the ballpark. I might just have to set it the old fashioned way with a vac gauge and tach. Didn't adjust clutch yet, it's almost usable. Vacuum bled the brakes and they are terrible but exist. The pedal doesn't feel right so I think it's the master cylinder either out of adjustment or just fucked again. Most likely the latter. Amps gauge reads a constant -60 so may want to look into that. TL: DR I reversed it out of my garage for the first time in a couple years. Washed the barn find dust off it Bled the brakes but there's still none Fiddled with the carbs Tried to connect a modern tablet PC to a 70 year old car and failed

And dropouts embiggened to fit axles Brake bridge and chainstay bridge removed. Rubbing on inner chainstays - the tyre goes past the existing clearance flattened part. I think I'll spread them a little and flatten a little and it will be heaps of clearance. Might put in some webbing as a gusset instead of a tube bridge. Or leave it out all together. Some say it's ok some say you will die instantly. Will cut a radius in the bottom of the fork crown and weld in an arch to keep the forks from splaying. Also need to flatten the inside fork a tiny amount All the steel in this is pretty thick, so she'll be right

So I torched off the brake bridge I used the torch because I had hoped I could just reuse it higher up. But it was quite thin tube, and I had already drilled out the brake mount re-enforcing to wafer thin. So it deformed too much. Will just make a new one. Might do the same with the chain stay bridge. I think I could get away with bending the shit out of it. But may as well do two if I'm doing one

Pics have disappeared into the either but this is what that Mustang sport that was cut in half looks like now Some swish parts on there and some cheap as well Unfortunately those brakes in the floor only clear up to 35s and I decided I want 2.1 inch. Also the frame doesn't clear 2.1" tyres. Pretty sure I can modify the fork crown without weakening it, and clearance the bottom bracket side of the rear triangle. Then I'll convert it to cantilevers or v brakes. I already have the old cantilevers from my touring bike, so probably those. What then? Huck it off some trails till it's fucked. The repaired frame seems ok. I silver soldered some dowels inside the tubes and joined them back together. Have jumped on it a few times to see if I can crack it, but nope it's pretty solid .

Shit dude, I do love a good commer

Did I mention the starter Bendix wasn't returning. Stripped it down, cleaned it up, and ran a builders pencil over the threads. Works ok now. More barrying of a carb choke actuator bolt into a throttle cable bolt. Just needed to spin it down in the lathe eh Looks the part Also popped the air filters on. These did come with wire mesh media in them. I replaced these with some doughnuts cut from a kwasaki ninja foam filter. Starts up with a little choke from cold, and starts easy warm. Revs up nicely. I think it's going to be a good one. Cut the exhaust up again to correct some alignment issues at the vband flange. Goes together much nicer now and sounds alot smoother (waste of time tuning with exhaust leaks) Then something went wrong. Smoke started coming out of the generator, ign lamp would go off when running but come on with the key removed. Looks like the points in the voltage regulator/control box (yup more Lucas points) stuck I ran some paper between them and it's ok again. I had to do that last time it had sat for a while too. An entire new loom in in my future, maybe I'll get a dynameter fake generator instead and do away with the control box all together. Anyway Next on the list is the brakes One wheel was stuck. Just some rust on the shoes, I cleaned it up and will vacuum bleed the system later

Sand the needle down at the full throttle position.

According to police 10/7 if you had just yelled swears at him and a few Sigs he would have just let you off no problems

Yup

Captivated my nuts Screwed all the brakes back together Attached the clutch linkage Pulled the manifolds and tightened everything up, put some gaskets in on the flanges. Ordered the wrong choke lever. Not a major as it's not necessary, but looks good. Let out my inner Barry Cheap fix eh I have some steel that would have done the job, but this is funnier and will give someone a lol wat moment years from now Anyway. I bolted it all together. Remembered how to prime an SU fuel pump, started it up, and tuned it enough for a slow idle when hot. A bunch of red liquid spat out of the water jacket gaskets, but this seems to have sealed itself. Exhaust downpipe flange needs to be at a slightly different angle for a gas tight fit. Seems to be really hot. The airfilter backing plates get almost too hot to touch after a few minutes idling with the bonnet up, distributor is also hot but expected (but not ideal as sidevalves kill electronic ignition due to the exhaust valves being directly under it). If anything it should be set up running rich, who knows what the timing is. TL:DR It starts and idles but I need to actually tune it, laptop died a while ago so need another for wideband tuning, but will fettle with SU tuning tools and vac gauges for now. I have a heatshield that came with the set up but is a pita to use as it blocks the manifold studs

A bit bigger than what I have, but if no one else has one you can get one new for about $90 from trade tools

The bungs I use have a small lip to go in a pre drilled hole You want the bung hole to be a tight fit usually