tortron

yeah pronounced Hamish

My other bike has been sitting around and could do with another coat, was a little patchy after a bit of rain and a wash after I got polish on it. So good opportunity for a second application

Here's the mirrors, I did one with a map torch Good option for some stuff, I have tried it on nissan plastic with a lower temp heat gun and it instantly took all the oil to the surface and was uncontrollable This one with the torch, seemed more controlable, maybe its the high heat, can just waft it over and get the job done rather than heat up the part? The arms of the mirrors started to do the same thing as the Nissan, but looking at them again the next day, don't seem to have any patchyness or heat damage This was a 2 min job, I think it would come up better with a 2nd "coat"

Will add some other photos in the sun tomorrow. But - my experience It smells like rotten eggs, but not once applied Some surfaces instantly turn black. Smooth stuff like the airbox took it really well, just barely a touch on the brush was enough to bring it back to deep black The other plastics were kind of hit and miss. Even plastics of the same kind and similar locations had slightly different results. This bike was real bad, faded fully to white in some areas, the indicators for example. Chalky finish. All I did was wash the bike with simple green, then brush the crc tyre black on. Soaked right into the seat cover and looks great. The inner Fender and air box, one coat. Everything else took 2 coats for good coverage, then a third to dab into the spots that didn't want to take it. Sometimes the additional coat would lift the previous, in little bits like sand. Streakyness wasn't much of an issue, it seems to self level and soak in. But as I mentioned, some places did need additional coats to hide brush marks I left it out in the sun all day, again a bit of a mixed bag, some stuck on really well (jialing Fender is 100% soaked in and won't scratch off) some I can scratch and leave a mark. Although most of this particular bike was chalky and would do that if you touched it, so for the most part probably the substrate, although some of the less faded spots will do the same. It can of course be touched up easily Did the seat by dabbing with a rolled up cloth, pretty good outcome Clean up with water, no remaining smell. Will give it a bit and then wash the bike down and see what happens Interested to see what happens if I spray it out of an airbrush

Debating which bike to take now, depends which one has rego on it I guess lol, possibly twist and go

dont bother with rattle cans, theres not enough in them and they spray shit upsidedown i have this gun https://panelstore.co.nz/collections/all-paint/products/novol-underseal-gun i use this underbody coating https://panelstore.co.nz/collections/all-paint/products/body-underseal-anti-gravel and i use this for inside doors, chassis rails https://panelstore.co.nz/products/cavity-wax-gravit-640 sub titles on the gun has a long hose that can go on the nozzle for inside stuff

Oh, I thought good bikes weren't allowed? I'd have to put a stock engine back in

unfortunately the closest bike i have that meets the requirements is a 150cc twist and go

Rear muffler and then like 30cm of pipe after it Mild steel over stainless

You are going to need to say what you want to achieve Bolt in I guess if you don't know much Asking for advice? That will get you - It's a mitsi, scrap it

they have a pamphlet on the trade desk, if they give you any issues point to where it says passenger vehicle and not rolling around. IRL you will walk to the bottle cage, you will take it and theres no further interaction as long as you dont smash the valve off/have it fly around in a crash

a wizard is always precisely on time

That muddy area as a corner is a fantastic inclusion

yeah i had/have to do some mahor dicking cos one of the last guys replaced the sills and then bent the bottom of the door out to match it, so i redid the sills propperly and had to reshape the doors, and then there are reproduction guards on it that dont match the front edge of the doors, it never ends lol i did mine by aligning the swage in the door with the swage in the body behind the door to get it level with the body. Then moved it backwards till it aligned nicely with the latch. then i bent the entire lower edge of the door in about 1.5cm to meet where the new sill is. Then i fitted the fenders and then chopped and added to the rear edge of that till it matched the front edge of the door the sill line and latch line are the most important