tortron

Looks like it's parked in its usual spot

But it's portibke KY, and if you can't fit a hoist it's probably ok

Headlights might start working

I want this but can't justify it when my cars don't need any major work on them...... Single phase portable hoist. Also good motorcycle table https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/jacks/listing-1702879063.htm?rsqid=a62f40473fae4fe0909526744afdab01

I have them in Papakura

Fitting Perve at the boobs on the right of the stage too

Interior improvement timezinced up the floor and roofordered a 2 door kit of dynamat, it was actually the cheapest option. The real cheap stuff I did my Morrie with seems to be NLA, but this was a bit nicer to work withmost of the deadening is achieved by covering 30-50% of the panel, so I didn't bother trying to cover everything. Yes I realise I have done this a bit backward, most of the sound will be coming through the firewall and front floor sections. But I have more work to do there and will do that when I take the dash out and fill up the un used holes etc. I have some vinyl, so I will make a headliner and rear of cab panel maybe this weekend

just double clutch like you should?

so another little job knocked out.a little while ago i was monitoring the under bonnet and intake temps and figured i could see a significant improvement by ducting the airbox to outside the hot engine bay.Here is what i am working withstandard holden airbox but missing its snorkel, and an unused headlamp pressing in my inner rad panelSo I went to a wreckers and picked up another complete airbox with snorkel incase I wanted to cut it up. I briefly tried to heat set the snorkel into the shape I wanted, but no luckAround that time I spotted in a clearance parts bin a 3"-4" silicone adaptor. The unused headlamp hole just happens to be 3", and the snorkel hole more or less 4". so at $5 I took a puntyup, with some trimming this will workNow its hard to see in pictures, but the two holes don't line up, theres about 3cm of offset and the headlamp hole is a little higher. Fortunately there is exactly enough room to move the airbox closer to the inner guard, and up without touching the bonnet when closed.I can improve this by slotting out the airbox hole, but for now it looks like it will be fine and the only additional work to do is make some spacers to mount the airbox at the correct height on the old battery tray.this is the joiner un trimmed, in place between the inner and outer headlamp panels. I don't think I will bother with any kind of fancy scoop even though its probably dead air (but it always measured much cooler than under the bonnet) and will just cut it more or less flush

Little job today FactoryvPre punched marks on the floor seat rail mount Drilled and rivnut installed Cut some hollow stock and added another pair of rivnuts to mount the extinguisher cradle to Seat right back Seat so far forward I can't put it in gear and still accessable Quite basic, but a step up from having it jammed under the seat. Not race track approved, maybe I'll get a nicer one one day. Currently painted black and drying

So next up in the pile of parts I have been collecting was a spare fuel tank with sender, and a Holden fuelpump/sender combo. Have been thinking of how to sort out the fuel gauge. But in the end I felt it most cost effective (don't need a custom long range tank I guess) and simple enough to just put the Holden sender in the mitsi tank. Unfortunately the Holden one is larger in diameter, and I don't really need an in tank pump in a non baffles tank. So the plan was to adapt the Holden sender onto the original mitsi unit Took apart the mitsi one Took apart the Holden one Removed the sender bodies from both Soldered the long mitsi float arm onto the Holden pivot Welded the Holden sender body to the mitsi mounting, and soldered the single wire to the original fitting And re assembled And it works. The hardest but will be removing the one currently in the truck

#flakeittillyoumakeit

Go to rali on tr rapa straight (resene auto and industrial) they seemed oretty good when i bought some 2k from them legally Linkup paint supplies has also been very helpful when iv had paint matched

You can do it in situ by connecing the new chain to the old one and turning it over

I didn't pay, the last owner did. IV posted up here the place and cost I think under resilvering headlamps. Don't remember off the top of my head but it was the only place Edit, 400 a lamp is probably close to resilvering em here