tortron

That would probably work well. You can also fill with water and weld some pins on to pull the dent out Depending on the shape of the dent and how stretched it is, a suction cup might also work. A shrinking disk can be useful if it keeps popping back in. You can make one from a pot lid. Sometimes you can just tickle the area and it will shrink just right to pop it out. Creates heat tho so not sure how I'd approach a fuel tank with that method (couldn't fill with water as you want the heat, spot welds probably best to shrink and fill with water) Probably not a good spot to put something inflatable In either

Can always make them up and tack them for out sourcing. Good thing is, a sheet of aluminium is cheap and it's nice to weld a new radiator and new sheet rather than used stuff (Road signs are real cheap though )

You could buy the Honda rad, have it modified and buy a whole Morris minor for the price of just the copper core. You can nickel plate aluminium actually *thinking about it further You could easily make the top and bottom tanks (or covers to make it look right) from sheet aluminium at home and have them tig welded to the core. This would be a good option to make the header tank nice and big for the thermosyphon. Obviously the core itself wouldn't look correct, but you could get a radiator that looks mostly right after some home job bending and hammering and dressing of the welds, and it would be a decent price

A half size radiator from an ek or ef civic is around the size you want. May be a good starting point for an off the shelf option There was a honeycomb radiator in my commer parts, i recall it was made by somewhere that does heavy machinery radiators. Il see if u can remember where. It was expensive.

Slurp slurp Keeping it blue?

Just upright and visible They will try ping you if they feel like it, but it will get thrown out in court because the rules say upright and visible

They are tapered. Because they don't heat up evenly. Crown will expand more than the skirt *oh yeah, the bit in the middle. The taper sort of tapeers back in to the bottom, so you have a surface/ring that takes the thrust against the cylinder wall. Probably a bit of tuning in getting that right and getting a good sealing, long milage piston at many many rpm. You could ignore it for something that's getting rebuilt every few runs

The switch is the fuel solenoid. It should be closed when no power, so needs volts to open the fuel supply The line on the banjo fitting is the return

Check the valve clearance on that one, is it excessive? Might be binding in the guide in certain positions

The British army used Morris minor engines

https://www.carsxhype.com/2012/01/31/this-means-business-kyoei-usas-vip-ls400/ Doing the rest?

Looks like what's under a morrie

Yeah that's a common failure mode of 13 second prius engines

An amr500 will bolt right in that spot

3d printed carbon fibre block (in easy to assemble sized chunks)