440bbm

shit that makes life real easy! good score on finding that

not the additional + - for manual mode you can feel or is that part electronic

0.8mm may be a little bit big for panel steel if you arent too careful. you could try a 0.6mm for better results but you can tune it down and get the job done unless there is heaps to do

get an AGM for cheaper than lipo but all the CCA and max distance between runs. depends if racecar or not.

Fair enough. Cannot say I blame you as it is pretty taxing and a part of it sucks the fun from the main ride itself which is the whole point. Glad that you are enjoying it and gotten over the slump!

Surely, we are due another story by now?!

That's repairable if you can't find a replacement? machine through and push a new stepped insert through it.

beaten by mrjstar about target rev range comment.

Yes, but you aren't playing in their league either. You have alot more motor. 2 rotor turbo's are much happier with the 4.3 also. IMO not that it's really worth anything, is just that rotary guys leave the ratio's alone for 2 reasons, its for skids easier and they dont know any better. The stock diesel LSD b16/20 or hilux diff that they've changed too was enough investment and its been left with the stock diesel gearset. Just remember, that the stock ratios from mazda were mostly 3.9 to 4.1 and a couple 4.3's i reckon you need to know a speed in a gear, and a RPM band area you want to aim for and use the diff ratio with your known tyre sizes. so that if it starts to really pull hard at say 4, 6 8k its close to that. Chop that known gear and you're off. and to decide if you want to set it up for open road driving between cities and events more, in which case u wanna go as low as poss to get the fuel consumption lower than higher ratio diff will give you.

Those bores look like they shouldnt be causing a major problem. Have you tried just turning the pulley by hand to check other then the click click of the key and starter sounds? Hows the oil level and condition? Unless there is condensation thats run down and made a pretty solid lip on the ring thats hidden by the piston? but normally see more rusty shit looking in the bores. also, was that the 50k camera? LOL

Great idea. The cheap $80 tool shed ones aren't ultra shit also if you get stuck.

Gotcha. Wondered why limited to those ratios. Does Motive gear do range for it? I'd go for the lowest ratio there is, and just work on the tune as best you can to be as competitive as poss when doing the chrome type events, or stick e85 in it for those events and turn the wick up for those days so you get a great useability. It's injected right? So getting it off the line will be alot smoother than carb, so you wouldn't need to worry about that argument for the 5.3 I'd go for the 4.7 and then if its not perky enough for you, then look going half way up. You can also run slightly smaller wheels on the event days if needed to get off the line a bit quicker as most tend to change rims for anyway so you wont stand out compared to the rest haha.

Have you looked at the top speed with your desired max rpm? What is the purpose of the car? even 4.7 is pretty limiting. With that 20bPP you will have enough grunt and torque ( LOL ) compared to 2 rotor so its really not the same as you already know. If you're driving it everywhere just remember its gunna guzzle max fuel everywhere more with the 5.3 compared to 4.7 Unless you wanna do 6th gear burnouts, with the car loaded of people. look at the 4.7 or lower. What is the diff? 9"

As above. soak the bores, put the plugs back in after just hand tight so doesnt evaporate as quickly.. remove crank pulley and make a plate with a bit old socket welded to it in the centre to put a 1/2" power bar on it. just wiggle it bit at a time and dont force it when it feels tight, dont break a ring or 5. cool project.

def do it properly by this point. as per MOF's suggestion. especially now you are now needing to check the entire internals of the diff.