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About Flash

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    Post Fiend

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  1. Spent the morning giving the dirty old 3Y a tickle with an old toothbrush and some stale fuel and then declared it ready for a rattle can reco. Figured satin black would help it blend into the background as I don't really want to advertise the fact that I've slapped a Toyota heart into the old girl. Will let it dry overnight and then I'll strip off the masking tape and plastic garbage bags to reveal it in it's true glory.
  2. I've started preparing the gearbox for final installation. The gearbox paintwork looks fairly fresh so I'm not going to bother with a repaint. Just gave the exterior a good clean. Next thing was to locate the missing speedo drive, so I groveled around under HiAce donor 2 and discovered that whoever had done the 5 speed swap from donor 2 to donor 1 had pulled the drive out and left it attached to the speedo cable for some reason. Luckily the little nylon gear was still there too. Gave it a clean and chucked it in the side of the box, then put my battery drill on the main input shaft and hey pr
  3. Thanks for the feedback fellas. I really appreciate the pointers. I will double check things to make sure that the rack and the rack ends are the same level on both sides. Clint, in terms of the spindles and orientation of the steering arms I haven't changed anything. The L300 SD series front beam is setup as front steer from factory. All that I have done is replaced the SD series drag link steering with the rack and pinion from a newer generation L300. Thanks also for the suggestions on how to address the tie rod position. Being so "space poor" I reckon that would be the way to go r
  4. I've taken a few quick snaps for you Clint. These were taken with the suspension arms set at normal ride height. I really appreciate you taking a closer look for me. Shout if you need anything photo'ed in more detail.
  5. Well it's been another week of slow but steady progress on the old Thames. The first part of the week was spent cleaning, refurbishing, painting and then fitting more of the small bits and pieces. In between I've also been making a shopping list of additional nuts, bolts and washers that I need to pick up on my next trip to town. Towards the latter half of the week I thought I'd start finalising the steering setup as I still need to get the intermediate steering shaft that joins the rack to the steering angle box shortened to the correct length. However, the dilemma is that I can't w
  6. Thanks for the advice @cletus and @adoom I really appreciate your guidance. Yikes, I was hoping you weren't going to say that I need to lift the rack. I've got the engine out at the moment but from memory I've only got about 10 mm clearance between the top of the rack housing and my harmonic balancer and I can't raise the engine anymore without causing clearance issues between the top of the carby and the underside of my cab floor. I'm thinking I should get the engine and gearbox back in and then see if I can tweak things a bit more.
  7. After reading through the info sheets provided by @cletus and spurred on by his encouragement I spent a bit of time yesterday building a rudimentary replica of the LVVTA bump steer test kit. After setting my caster and camber this morning I cracked into some bump steer measurements. The results indicate that I am getting a maximum of 1.6 degrees of toe in under full compression and 2.0 degrees of toe out under maximum droop. Based on these results the LVVTA notes say that my tie rod is too high. I'm clueless as to how I can fix this, so would appreciate some guidance from those in the know.
  8. Thanks very much for the additional reading material and detail @cletus. Thanks also to @adoom for the pic of your test setup. @ThePoghas also made some good points. Thanks fellas, I really appreciate the info and advice.
  9. I'm in need of a bit of advice from those who know a lot more about bump steer than I do. Visually the pivot points on my steering rack ends form a straight line between the pivot points on both my upper and lower suspension arms, so I know that I am somewhere in the ball park, but decided to seek a bit more confirmation by actually putting the suspension through its paces. So in the absence of any specialist tools I've completed the following rudimentary test: With my steering rack and all other front suspension components except for my shocks and springs in place, I have used
  10. I got tired of tripping over the back bumpers so thought I'd fit them. First time that they have been on the van during my ownership so it's going to take a bit of time to get used to the different look.
  11. Today I made a start on tidying up some of the loose engine parts. De-greased the tappet cover and sump and then took to them with a wire wheel. Chucked a few coats of satin black engine enamel on the tappet cover and it came up mint. The indentations on the sump need a bit more work before its ready for paint so I'll carry on with that tomorrow.
  12. Happy New Year ! Thought I'd start 2021 off by test fitting my combined steering bracket, so chucked it on with a few random nuts and bolts. Although the rack isn't connected up yet, the movement of the steering shaft and angle box is nice and smooth. Whilst putting the gearshift pivot arm through its paces I noticed that the shift cable rubs up against the chassis leg at full arc. Not ideal, so I decided to do something about that. Pulled everything apart again and have now re-positioned the mounting holes for the arm slightly lower. Meant I needed to elongate the hole in the brack
  13. Heavy rain stopped play yesterday, so I only got to glue the steering bracket together today. Just needs a final tidy up with a flapper disk before I call it done.
  14. And another pic with the angle box attached.
  15. And that's the bottom portion of the steering bracket carved out of 6 mm plate. It took a few goes before I got the offset perfect. Next step is to glue it to the main bracket and then do a final tidy up of the welds.
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