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Everything posted by Flash

  1. Thanks for the replies fellas. The clutch plate does fit the gearbox input shaft and the pressure plate seems to match my original in appearance at least. The old thrust bearing pictured in my original post is the one I removed when I split the engine from the gearbox, but the van was a non runner when I bought it with the engine and gearbox just slapped in the hole, so it's quite possible that someone has fitted the incorrect thrust bearing somewhere along the line. Having said this I've put a vernier on the ID of the pilot bearing on both my 3Y and 4Y engines and also on the input shaft
  2. I'm seeking some guidance from the Toyota brains trust again. I've just opened up the box containing my new clutch kit and the thrust bearing included in the kit looks nothing like my original. Now I'm wondering whether I'm missing a trick here. Like for instance maybe I have to use the original housing and somehow just replace the inner bearing. Another clue that they may have supplied me with the wrong kit is the fact that the small crankshaft pilot bearing supplied in the kit is a 15mm o/d unit instead of the existing 12mm o/d unit fitted to my engine. Similarly the plastic clutch plat
  3. Just after New Year I decided it was time to start selling parts off my donor vans, so I chucked a few listings up on Gumtree and I can't believe the responses I have received. Looks like the older Jap vans still have a following and I've even shipped a quad headlight setup including matching front grill to a HiAce fan in New Zealand. It's taken quite a bit of my spare time, so progress on the Thames has slowed a bit, but I have managed to do a bit more assembly on the 3Y engine which is now at a point where it is ready to go back in the hole. Talking about the 3Y I'm trying to puzzle out
  4. Spent the morning giving the dirty old 3Y a tickle with an old toothbrush and some stale fuel and then declared it ready for a rattle can reco. Figured satin black would help it blend into the background as I don't really want to advertise the fact that I've slapped a Toyota heart into the old girl. Will let it dry overnight and then I'll strip off the masking tape and plastic garbage bags to reveal it in it's true glory.
  5. I've started preparing the gearbox for final installation. The gearbox paintwork looks fairly fresh so I'm not going to bother with a repaint. Just gave the exterior a good clean. Next thing was to locate the missing speedo drive, so I groveled around under HiAce donor 2 and discovered that whoever had done the 5 speed swap from donor 2 to donor 1 had pulled the drive out and left it attached to the speedo cable for some reason. Luckily the little nylon gear was still there too. Gave it a clean and chucked it in the side of the box, then put my battery drill on the main input shaft and hey pr
  6. Thanks for the feedback fellas. I really appreciate the pointers. I will double check things to make sure that the rack and the rack ends are the same level on both sides. Clint, in terms of the spindles and orientation of the steering arms I haven't changed anything. The L300 SD series front beam is setup as front steer from factory. All that I have done is replaced the SD series drag link steering with the rack and pinion from a newer generation L300. Thanks also for the suggestions on how to address the tie rod position. Being so "space poor" I reckon that would be the way to go r
  7. I've taken a few quick snaps for you Clint. These were taken with the suspension arms set at normal ride height. I really appreciate you taking a closer look for me. Shout if you need anything photo'ed in more detail.
  8. Well it's been another week of slow but steady progress on the old Thames. The first part of the week was spent cleaning, refurbishing, painting and then fitting more of the small bits and pieces. In between I've also been making a shopping list of additional nuts, bolts and washers that I need to pick up on my next trip to town. Towards the latter half of the week I thought I'd start finalising the steering setup as I still need to get the intermediate steering shaft that joins the rack to the steering angle box shortened to the correct length. However, the dilemma is that I can't w
  9. Thanks for the advice @cletus and @adoom I really appreciate your guidance. Yikes, I was hoping you weren't going to say that I need to lift the rack. I've got the engine out at the moment but from memory I've only got about 10 mm clearance between the top of the rack housing and my harmonic balancer and I can't raise the engine anymore without causing clearance issues between the top of the carby and the underside of my cab floor. I'm thinking I should get the engine and gearbox back in and then see if I can tweak things a bit more.
  10. After reading through the info sheets provided by @cletus and spurred on by his encouragement I spent a bit of time yesterday building a rudimentary replica of the LVVTA bump steer test kit. After setting my caster and camber this morning I cracked into some bump steer measurements. The results indicate that I am getting a maximum of 1.6 degrees of toe in under full compression and 2.0 degrees of toe out under maximum droop. Based on these results the LVVTA notes say that my tie rod is too high. I'm clueless as to how I can fix this, so would appreciate some guidance from those in the know.
  11. Thanks very much for the additional reading material and detail @cletus. Thanks also to @adoom for the pic of your test setup. @ThePoghas also made some good points. Thanks fellas, I really appreciate the info and advice.
  12. I'm in need of a bit of advice from those who know a lot more about bump steer than I do. Visually the pivot points on my steering rack ends form a straight line between the pivot points on both my upper and lower suspension arms, so I know that I am somewhere in the ball park, but decided to seek a bit more confirmation by actually putting the suspension through its paces. So in the absence of any specialist tools I've completed the following rudimentary test: With my steering rack and all other front suspension components except for my shocks and springs in place, I have used
  13. I got tired of tripping over the back bumpers so thought I'd fit them. First time that they have been on the van during my ownership so it's going to take a bit of time to get used to the different look.
  14. Today I made a start on tidying up some of the loose engine parts. De-greased the tappet cover and sump and then took to them with a wire wheel. Chucked a few coats of satin black engine enamel on the tappet cover and it came up mint. The indentations on the sump need a bit more work before its ready for paint so I'll carry on with that tomorrow.
  15. Happy New Year ! Thought I'd start 2021 off by test fitting my combined steering bracket, so chucked it on with a few random nuts and bolts. Although the rack isn't connected up yet, the movement of the steering shaft and angle box is nice and smooth. Whilst putting the gearshift pivot arm through its paces I noticed that the shift cable rubs up against the chassis leg at full arc. Not ideal, so I decided to do something about that. Pulled everything apart again and have now re-positioned the mounting holes for the arm slightly lower. Meant I needed to elongate the hole in the brack
  16. Heavy rain stopped play yesterday, so I only got to glue the steering bracket together today. Just needs a final tidy up with a flapper disk before I call it done.
  17. And another pic with the angle box attached.
  18. And that's the bottom portion of the steering bracket carved out of 6 mm plate. It took a few goes before I got the offset perfect. Next step is to glue it to the main bracket and then do a final tidy up of the welds.
  19. Brilliant colour choice Conrad ! I can't wait to see it all assembled again.
  20. I had mixed success at the rubber place in town yesterday. Managed to get a pinch weld style rubber for my front doors so I was chuffed about that. Sadly they didn't have anything near as large as the 70mm rubber grommet that I need for my steering column. Hopped on fleabay when I got home and the only listing I could find for a 70 mm OD grommet was a crowd in China so I've resorted to ordering a few in. Thanks to Covid estimated delivery date is early March so I'll fabricate the plate in the mean time and will fit the grommet once it arrives. This morning I thought I'd make a start on
  21. Merry Chrissy All from the team of one at Rough & Ready Restos. It being a special day I thought I'd treat myself to something other than cleaning crusty old Thames parts. Figured now would be as good a time as any to work out how I'm going to fabricate the floor plate that surrounds the steering and gear shift columns. My initial thinking is a solid plate with two holes cut out - one for the steering column and one for the gearshift column and then some rubber grommets to give me a weather seal. Started off with some basic cereal box aided design to get the rough shape of t
  22. Well, not really, it's just the result of some small crusty looking clips that sat in a vinegar bath for a few days. Gave them a quick once over with a Stanley blade to get off the stubborn bits, soaked them in a bit of fuel, then back into the vinegar bath for round number two. Onwards and upwards. Thanks for looking.
  23. Then I cooked up a little something:
  24. I'm still donkey deep in cleaning and painting all of the smaller parts before final assembly. After spending a bit of time sanding down the backs of the bumpers I declared them as good as I was going to get them. Chucked on a few coats of combination rust converter / primer followed by top coats of galv paint and I'll call them done. Hopefully that should protect them for a few more years.
  25. Spent yesterday preparing the second batch of parts for paint. A few needed some welding touch ups whilst others just needed a good de greasing followed by tickle with a flapper disc and a bit of wire wheeling. It's relatively mindless work, but needs to be done. Managed to get a first coat on them this morning. While they were drying I cut some extra thread into the rear axle U bolts necessitated by the removal of the two lower leaf springs. So that's another small job ticked off the list.
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