R3spct

Fair enough, I was trying to avoid the fumes from gas cooker too. Inverter and battery setup costs a bit of investment, but I enjoy off grid convenience so went that path.

What are you going to run on gas? Im running a inverter and induction cook top for cooking, and diesel heater for air and water heating. My camper is bigger than yours and a 9kg gas bottle takes heaps of room.

My Datsun 1200 coupe had bad exhaust smells, wasnt bad with front windows open and I didnt care as mostly drove with them open, but with closed it got bad. There was a 1.5mm gap under boot rubber in one spot, fixed the rubber and all smells went away. Only seems to take such a small gap to let the gasses in. Sure wind tunnel testing would provide some interesting insight into why the gasses can go from a tail pipe extending 100 past the rear valance, up 500mm or so and into the cab when you are going forward.

Forgot I detuned this ages ago so the Mrs could drive without cooking the EGT's, I'm a bit more careful watching the gauge under load. Decided to give the pin a tweak and turned it up to approx 2/3 rolling coal, way more spicy to drive. 2nd gear pull was slightly uphill. Yeah its not fast still, its over 3000kg so it does ok for what it is.

Anyone find a use for a oldschool Link plug in digital controller? Same as this but screen works as far as I know.

Maf sensor on SR20 stuff used to be a good indicator of power for us Sr20ve tuners back in the day as they all used same maf. 4.2v max was ok (115kw atw), 4.3v to 4.4v (120 to 130kw) was a good tuned engine with cams headers and such, high compression and head work could break 4.5 to 4.6v (140 to 150kw). Was very comparable when we used Torque perf dyno.

The discussion certainly raised some hackles out there. The intent was to stop hippies pooping in bushes, but it just made it hard and expensive for those that always do the right thing. I know our machine is fully within the intent and practicalities of the rules, and at least Ive got paper work to say its "legal" so we can use for the next 4 years, unless they roll back the interpretation issue and decline it being legal. Bigger issues in the world tho than this I hope.

Passed new self containment cert yesterday. Guy told me not to advertise how Ive mounted the portapotti, im sure the rules will change again in 4 years when the boomers rewrite them again. Vans been running well, Ive considered water meth injection, and also a radiator sprayer. If the Rad temp is under 80 I can hammer it way harder until temps get over 90 ish, then the EGTs start to rise quicker and power drops off. Im pretty sure water meth would work really well, but it runs 5psi of boost most of the time at cruise, so not sure where the ideal trigger point would be.

Interesting question, but it was turning ok when I last tightened it. I shouldnt be under any particular electrical load, and turning headlights on didnt change it, just rpm. But the belt I just took off was worn down to under 10mm wide from 13mm, so it had a lot less contact area than a new one. I did look at a replacement alt before fitting the secondary one, but finding a bolt on upgrade option with the vac pump was spendy. Hope I dont have to replace it....

Is a few on Tardme, NZAD in Henderson says they have a Bosch one. Hopefully can get past there tomorrow and grab one. Im wondering if there is any value in polishing the surfaces of the pulleys. The idler definitely has some pitting and roughness to it, but the Alt belt is the one thats really tearing it up based on the amount of powdered rubber around it. The alt is just the stock one, with the vacuum pump for brake booster. Ive got a secondary 200amp alt where the AC pump used to be, running off a different rib on the front crank pulley, I charge my 24v house battery with this, and it barely does any load. Ive never seen my clamp meter show more than like 10amp from it.

Dayco belts dont seem common, just keep getting Gates ones coming up. Found a HD gates belt for "industrial use" at repco, not sure if its worth the extra money tho.

My Bongo, R2 diesel engine, has been pretty hard to keep alternator belts alive. Google says its a 13a1105, which was the last belt I had, which only lasted maybe 3000km. Originally I think I had a 10a profile belt, which didnt last long either. It has a pulley for the fan, which isnt for the water pump, so just an idler. The front crank pulley has been replaced, but not the idler or the alt pulley. Its been getting noisier the last 500km or so, and last drive it was screaming the whole way, tightened it up when i got where I was going, and it made a noise like a supercharger belt but got me home. Anyone got any thoughts on treating the pulleys, sanding or polishing? Or is there another profile of belt I could try?

Mine is on the guard and is on a 45 angle of the back surface of the guard. If it was on the back of the trailer it would get taken out in no time is the trailer is only 70mm thick at that point. I think I bought it from a OS member about 12 to 14 years ago....

European Birch plywood Overlaid with a hard-wearing, slip- resistant, wire-mesh pattern designed for the most demanding flooring applications. Weather and waterproof Resistant to commonly used chemicals. Trans-Tex 220 is overlaid with Dark Brown Phenol Film on the face and back and sealed edges to make the panel both weather and waterproof, any cut edges, machining, or drilling would compromise this seal and would have to be sealed with a waterproof coating. Trans-Tex 220 has become the preferred choice for many vehicle and trailer manufacturers worldwide and is recognised as one of the most economical decking materials due to its high bending stiffness, high impact resistance and durability." This was the stuff, maybe i didnt treat edges properly, but its just turned to Weetbix. Certainly wouldnt rate it as weather and waterproof if it gets any sort of scratches or dents in it from throwing heavy stuff at it.

I just did this on my small single axle car trailer, tray deck ply didnt even last 2 years. Ended up getting rough sawn 25mm x 140mm fence pailings from Bunnings. They are like $1.70 each, 1.8 long as my trailer is 1.7 wide. The screws to fix it all down cost more than the timber, and advantage is i can replace a board if it gets damaged.