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R3spct

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Everything posted by R3spct

  1. My Datsun has a haltech and running std tacho with inductive loop, i just ran the power wire for the coil, coil no1 in your case, through the inductive loop and it works mint.
  2. When i fitted a p12 primera 6 speed to a earlier car, the best way was to cut the cups off the inner cv's can weld the cups on from the car it was going into (p10). Then you have a large diameter weld, rather than small, so much much stronger. Also looks stock. I got ADL in auckland to do them, cost $600 but was well worth it.
  3. Is there any such thing as correctly jetted carb? Also where do you plug laptop in to a carb? Asking for a friend....
  4. Elite 1500 with NSP.. One of my 1st support tickets was on initial setup trying to find Injector Size. Searched for , fuel, injector, size, nothing, oh, its called FLOW and its under a subtab called Stage1, of course how stupid of me. Was the beginning of the end of my hate of the product. It drives the car, it starts well hot or cold, fuel econ is ok on wideband with long term trim on. I really want to rewire and put head light controls and a GPS speedo input, but CBF pulling the dash out to wire those things in. I started the car with a Nismotronic board in a Nissan sr18de ecu, and it ran great, but wanted something better supported and current. Nismotronic never told you off. Nismotronic logged everything, so when you check a log and want to say check inj duty, or see what was happening when there was a lean spot or missfire, everything was there. Also could plug ecu into laptop with usb and change anything, download logs, upload tunes, all without key on. Haltech you need key on, and the wideband is red hot, so unless you turn key off for 20sec to let the sensor cool before starting it cracks the sensor. Been through 4 sensors in last 2 years and im super careful. Old Innovate in my primera on Nismotronic i had the same sensor for 3 years. Suggested to Haltech some way where key is on and engine not running for period of time that it cools the sensor down, but got the std response, "no one else has that problem", ok you get to sell more sensors your way, ok. ANYWAY, sorry for thread hijack.....
  5. They allow for map sensor to be used as a baro sensor, if you use it as map sensor then you need an external baro sensor. BUT the new firmware insists on using the map sensor for something, and looses its shit if you try use it as a baro sensor, and needs map for something even tho my old tune everything is ref to tps. Tried to sort it but car wouldn't run right no matter what i did so rolled it back to old tune. I get check engine lights all the time for things that cant be referenced or searched, lots of abbreviations that dont link back to anything in the software of help files, so i just dont have a bulb in check engine light on dash anymore. Haltech hardware is fine, generally its a ok product, I've just had a really shit run with trying to do something different, (running ITB's with a poor vac signal for map), and the so called "support' is rubbish. Annoys me when Skid Factory, who get tens of thousands of product free, go on about how fantastic the support is. They have cell phone nos for the top techs in Aus., in NZ the agent here doesn't seem to know much, and I've literally waited weeks for a response. The AFR lean trip is impossible to track on logs, despite many attempts to log different things, the ecu only logs things you tell it to log. I know its a lean spot somewhere, but it doesn't trigger a check engine light, so cant log when the fault happens to see where on the map it happens. The other 2 voltage ref and voltage ration items ive got zero idea what they are, as the help file just lists all the codes with nothing about what they are.
  6. Im running ITBs on a A15 with a shit-tec ecu. Took ages to get the tune to work. Im running tps only as a load source, and using the map sensor as a baro sensor. Haltech did a vid on YouTube a while ago about tps only tuning on a ITB K20 engine, but glossed over a lot of stuff. I submitted a support request if they could add the TPS tune as shown in the vid as a base file, as there are none included in the base maps library, and after a month of tumbleweeds was told they don't have a TPS base map as there isn't enough demand. Yeah ok. Recently they release a new firmware which has supposedly better accel self learn, great, did the update and got like 6 conflicts in my tune setup, requested a support request again and was told my tune is "wrong" and all sorts. FFS. I ended up rolling the tune back and have vowed to just never connect laptop again, because every time i attempt to improve the tune or update it just makes things worse. Right now it runs good so i just leave it alone.
  7. 2013 vs 2023. Only got 42,000 km on it so far, but its been around nth island a bit
  8. I might have once kept a car on the road a couple more wofs with thin packaging tape and body match color paint. Wish id kept that car and repaired it properly now, but it has 300k on the body and was just plain worn out
  9. Bloody Ministockers have decimated the b310 stock. Glad you kept one away from them.
  10. Yeah im running 9psi on the wastegate, so cant drop boost. Ideally with diesel you can run no WG, and just control boost with fuel. I can turn the fuel down and keep the egts lower, but it makes it loose its punch in mid range and coming onto boost. I love the way the turbo deez pump works, its a work of art, even with my limited understanding, but the fuel pin and the way it kinda works like a cam and can be both rotated and, and the response spring can be adjusted is pretty cool. Im running an Innovate EGT gauge, which is set to flash at 630 deg, but to be fair from testing the engine doesnt make much power over 550 to 580 deg C preturbo. Im running a water to air ic under the drivers seat, tried a front mount but there was zero way to get pipes forward and back, i did have some temp sensors but never set them up properly to monitor the efficiency of the ic, with regards to intake air temp, and water temps in and out. Had someone try tell me i was running it too lean a while ago, and adding heat, which is the opposite with a turbo diesel. Turning down fuel with high egt is the best option, leave as much air going through as required to keep the combustion cooler. The engine is very inefficient, its a non cross flow R2 2.2, based off a petrol engine originally and only 10 bolt head, so cant take any serious boost. Ive killed a head gasket by freeboosting to 15psi, it didnt like it at all. The GFB one is fine, but the egt looks like its only a gauge function, and doesnt affect the solenoid control of the boost? Ulitmately, its a poor choice of engine, but its what i got, and its 4wd, which id like to keep, so changing engine would prob mean a new GB, and other issues. Kia makes a 2900crdi engine in a small truck based off the Bongo chassis, this would be a good option if could find one in good enough condition, but would mean loosing 4wd. Its independant front axle tho, so just a matter of removing front diff and alxes from CV's.
  11. Bit ambitious but got down the motorway at 80ph to VTNZ for a wof on both. Also GV weight what>?? Ive given up on the Arduino idea, tried a few things but its either beyond me or not feasible. I did have a high temp programable switch with a EGT sensor pre turbo, with the relay triggering a normal boost solenoid y on the line to the pump, at 630deg it will turn on the solenoid, and bleed off boost, therefore reducing fuel delivery and lowering egt, but its a bit aggressive and also the triggering temp is a bit random. Im surprised no one makes a EGT gauge with this function built in, preferably with a way to say start at 10% duty at 550 deg, and 100% at 630deg or so (Programmable). Maybe there is a way to do with arduino.
  12. Maybe the fuel pump? Harder to diagnose when its dying under load aye
  13. I need to look at a better wideband than the stock Haltech (shittech) 4.9 setup, its on its 3rd sensor with zero reason to be killing them. The ecu has auto tune and all of a sudden ill notice the car wont idle as the sensor is gone bung and the ecu is pulling fuel (if i had a bulb in the check engine light it might throw a light, but i got tired of all the other unknown check engine codes the Smelltech ecu throws that dont have any descriptions so i cant fix them as ive got no idea what they are, and the red light gets annoying. Just incase you didnt get it, I hate my CrapTech ecu). The ecu needs to be on to do anything with the tune, and it runs the sensor the whole time at full temp, so if you turn the key to start the car after playing with laptop, it cracks the sensor immediately. I dont do that, but it still randomly kills sensors. Used to run a 4.2 innovate on my old primera with Nismotronic, had the controller relayed off the fuel pump relay so it was only on if the engine was running, had the same sensor for 3 or 4 year on a turbo car. Where do you recomend to get the Spartan 3 from Dave?
  14. Further motorsport moments, did a hill climb at Springfield Rd, just south of whangarei with Northland Car Club. Added castor arms to get a bit more turn in, think it helped a bit, but im still learning the car. Most cars there were at least running semi slicks, i was on road tires, escorts with K20 engines set back with full sequential boxes etc, so yeah i was 3rd from last. 1.04 was best time. I know i could have pushed harder, 2nd gear was a bit short for a couple of sections, and 3rd gear a bit long. On this run i held 2nd at one point and hit 8040 rpm, little pushrods were working hard.
  15. Im not the biggest expert, but if you can get a dolly in there i rekon you'd hammer them out fairly easy, bit of practice and would be surprised how easy it is.
  16. Random comment on that... Had someone telling me my R2 mazda diesel with turbo added was overheating due to running too lean..... High EGT results from excessive fuel? I mean talking Diesel, not spark ign here.... I try keep the poor little 2.2 non crossflow under 550deg pre turbo most of the time, 550 to 600 for short time, and nothing over 630deg. Has a solenoid that opens over 630 and bleeds off boost reference to the diaphram on the pump and causes fuel delivery to drop, and therefore EGT to drop.
  17. Good to chat too, leaves me wanting more fasterers now tho, semi slicks, some more adjustment in front end, rear sway bar and more power!
  18. Did an autocross at Mt Smart yesterday with Sports car club. Hard to find venues for this type of event now, so was 140 entry per car. 30 car max. Got 6 runs, 2 lap flying start and finish. I was middle of field, most fast cars were running semi slicks or race tires. Car needs more power, and some castor and camber, and maybe a rear roll bar.
  19. Wow thats fantastic. I want more A Series powaa!!! Problem is, im looking at at least 6 to 8k in parts to make an A series make the power I want. Compression, 12:1, valve springs, roller rockers, maybe a bigger cam, ported and flow tested head, custom headers (coby is only easily avail option atm) Have to start to wonder if a Zetec crate engine is a more viable option. Fraser cars dont really use 2nd hand engines anymore, 3sge and 4age are so old, they use brand new zetec crate motors and gearboxes to suit.
  20. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/power-tools/search?member_listing=437351&bof=vnS2Cvso&search_string=makita Some of the chinese rip off stuff is ok for the money, got a 1/2 inch impact gun and was a beast til i left it at PAP.... with a genuine makita battery in it too, rage...
  21. Im running a tickled up a15 in my 1200 Coupe, makes 130hp at the wheels on a local dyno, not calibrated well, but it drives great, plenty of power everywhere. Ive had many turbo cars, and the desire for more power (especially after old school drags). Ive looked at a few options, turbo a series is prob the smartest option, but non crossflow i feel they are messy looking under bonnet when turbo. Other option i was considering, and might grab a donor engine to play with one day, is a GA16de engine, but there isnt much support for modifying now. SR engine is fine, but you need to use a Silvia box, and that means tunnel mods, and they are actually quite a heavy engine and gearbox combo, not to mention silvia tax now prices have gone silly. SImple option, go for the a12 turbo if you have the skills, prob best bang for buck, but will need a 5 speed box and ute h165 rear axle to handle the extra torque, h145 cant really even handle an a15 well.
  22. I miss my old V1, was def a good unit, got a $600ish uniden, has gps etc, has def saved me a couple of times and range and accuracy is pretty good. $1500 unit would have to be a heap better to justify me going past this level of cost.
  23. Ive got a heap of DC garage door motor electric motors and gearbox's, 24v, ive put them on a powersupply and turned the voltage right down to under 5v and the torque is quite good still. I wouldnt trust the gearbox for lifting and holding anything not counterballanced tho, they only have a plastic gear. In auckland tho... so.....
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