R3spct

Fair enough, I was trying to avoid the fumes from gas cooker too. Inverter and battery setup costs a bit of investment, but I enjoy off grid convenience so went that path.

What are you going to run on gas? Im running a inverter and induction cook top for cooking, and diesel heater for air and water heating. My camper is bigger than yours and a 9kg gas bottle takes heaps of room.

My Datsun 1200 coupe had bad exhaust smells, wasnt bad with front windows open and I didnt care as mostly drove with them open, but with closed it got bad. There was a 1.5mm gap under boot rubber in one spot, fixed the rubber and all smells went away. Only seems to take such a small gap to let the gasses in. Sure wind tunnel testing would provide some interesting insight into why the gasses can go from a tail pipe extending 100 past the rear valance, up 500mm or so and into the cab when you are going forward.

Forgot I detuned this ages ago so the Mrs could drive without cooking the EGT's, I'm a bit more careful watching the gauge under load. Decided to give the pin a tweak and turned it up to approx 2/3 rolling coal, way more spicy to drive. 2nd gear pull was slightly uphill. Yeah its not fast still, its over 3000kg so it does ok for what it is.

Anyone find a use for a oldschool Link plug in digital controller? Same as this but screen works as far as I know.

Maf sensor on SR20 stuff used to be a good indicator of power for us Sr20ve tuners back in the day as they all used same maf. 4.2v max was ok (115kw atw), 4.3v to 4.4v (120 to 130kw) was a good tuned engine with cams headers and such, high compression and head work could break 4.5 to 4.6v (140 to 150kw). Was very comparable when we used Torque perf dyno.

The discussion certainly raised some hackles out there. The intent was to stop hippies pooping in bushes, but it just made it hard and expensive for those that always do the right thing. I know our machine is fully within the intent and practicalities of the rules, and at least Ive got paper work to say its "legal" so we can use for the next 4 years, unless they roll back the interpretation issue and decline it being legal. Bigger issues in the world tho than this I hope.

Passed new self containment cert yesterday. Guy told me not to advertise how Ive mounted the portapotti, im sure the rules will change again in 4 years when the boomers rewrite them again. Vans been running well, Ive considered water meth injection, and also a radiator sprayer. If the Rad temp is under 80 I can hammer it way harder until temps get over 90 ish, then the EGTs start to rise quicker and power drops off. Im pretty sure water meth would work really well, but it runs 5psi of boost most of the time at cruise, so not sure where the ideal trigger point would be.

Interesting question, but it was turning ok when I last tightened it. I shouldnt be under any particular electrical load, and turning headlights on didnt change it, just rpm. But the belt I just took off was worn down to under 10mm wide from 13mm, so it had a lot less contact area than a new one. I did look at a replacement alt before fitting the secondary one, but finding a bolt on upgrade option with the vac pump was spendy. Hope I dont have to replace it....

Is a few on Tardme, NZAD in Henderson says they have a Bosch one. Hopefully can get past there tomorrow and grab one. Im wondering if there is any value in polishing the surfaces of the pulleys. The idler definitely has some pitting and roughness to it, but the Alt belt is the one thats really tearing it up based on the amount of powdered rubber around it. The alt is just the stock one, with the vacuum pump for brake booster. Ive got a secondary 200amp alt where the AC pump used to be, running off a different rib on the front crank pulley, I charge my 24v house battery with this, and it barely does any load. Ive never seen my clamp meter show more than like 10amp from it.

Dayco belts dont seem common, just keep getting Gates ones coming up. Found a HD gates belt for "industrial use" at repco, not sure if its worth the extra money tho.

My Bongo, R2 diesel engine, has been pretty hard to keep alternator belts alive. Google says its a 13a1105, which was the last belt I had, which only lasted maybe 3000km. Originally I think I had a 10a profile belt, which didnt last long either. It has a pulley for the fan, which isnt for the water pump, so just an idler. The front crank pulley has been replaced, but not the idler or the alt pulley. Its been getting noisier the last 500km or so, and last drive it was screaming the whole way, tightened it up when i got where I was going, and it made a noise like a supercharger belt but got me home. Anyone got any thoughts on treating the pulleys, sanding or polishing? Or is there another profile of belt I could try?

Mine is on the guard and is on a 45 angle of the back surface of the guard. If it was on the back of the trailer it would get taken out in no time is the trailer is only 70mm thick at that point. I think I bought it from a OS member about 12 to 14 years ago....

European Birch plywood Overlaid with a hard-wearing, slip- resistant, wire-mesh pattern designed for the most demanding flooring applications. Weather and waterproof Resistant to commonly used chemicals. Trans-Tex 220 is overlaid with Dark Brown Phenol Film on the face and back and sealed edges to make the panel both weather and waterproof, any cut edges, machining, or drilling would compromise this seal and would have to be sealed with a waterproof coating. Trans-Tex 220 has become the preferred choice for many vehicle and trailer manufacturers worldwide and is recognised as one of the most economical decking materials due to its high bending stiffness, high impact resistance and durability." This was the stuff, maybe i didnt treat edges properly, but its just turned to Weetbix. Certainly wouldnt rate it as weather and waterproof if it gets any sort of scratches or dents in it from throwing heavy stuff at it.

I just did this on my small single axle car trailer, tray deck ply didnt even last 2 years. Ended up getting rough sawn 25mm x 140mm fence pailings from Bunnings. They are like $1.70 each, 1.8 long as my trailer is 1.7 wide. The screws to fix it all down cost more than the timber, and advantage is i can replace a board if it gets damaged.

I welded a drop box on the bottom of my Datsun 1200 coupe tank for efi. Good thing, zero surge, bad is it holds maybe 1.2l, and when it runs out you get one cough, then 100m you are on side of the road.

My Bongo camper is 2.2 4cyl non crossflow diesel, with a 1kz turbo on it. Makes max power around 550deg egt (pre turbo). With the manual box, i can ride the egt gauge and keep it at its best power up hills. It has a pump off a 2.0 turbo diesel mazda engine, which means can adjust fuel response to boost etc. I can imagine turbo or non turbo, trying to keep a diesel engine with limited powerband on song with a auto will be hard work, and hard on the engine. Is there any option to change to a 5 speed manual to give more range to keep on song in the rev range?

Are you running a non turbo pump without a boost compensator? If there is a turbo version then definitely find and fit one. You can run a non turbo pump and adjust the fueling with the main control, but it will roll coal if you give it too much beans off boost.

So im going with Gibbon, it sounds like the clutch pedal rod to cylinder needs to be longer, so it disengages more and raises the pickup point. If its not that, then something is dragging or binding or going over center and binding? Exedy used to do a "heavy duty" kit for fwd sr20 that needed a shorter clutch throw to disengage, stock nissan pedal setup would over throw it, causing the springs on the clutch plate to hit the fingers of the pressure plate and eventually smash them out and then all sorts would go wrong. Of course exedy would never warranty it despite no documentation being provided with the kit to explain the necessity.

Theres is a Lexus dumped on the road by my house in waterview with a 3uz in it, 160km according to car jam, hasnt moved for at least 6 months and rego expired in 2023 some time. Be a great drivetrain swap id imagine. I hate when people dump cars like that, cant track owner to takeover ownership so the council will eventually tow away, degeg and sell for scrap.

Keeping some good company there. My car was originally the same green as the Coupe next to you

1024 cars turned up, last event before spring.

Even in 2014 it was hard to find some parts, this car came with no rear interior, had top mount but no surround which is crucial to make top mount work. Factory airbox for a GTIR is like rocking horse poo as they all had pod filters fitted and are bespoke for GTIR. Got the spot light grill on tardme for $150, was another GTIR collector planning on bidding but forgot, he said he would have paid up to 1k for it at the time. Then I sold the car with the grill on it. Last rego and wof was 2014 so no idea what became of it. Didnt get another wof after i sold it.

This was the only full GTIR ive owned, bought for 650, sold for 6800. Had the umbrella too..... Dont think it lasted long after i sold it to some bogan down Whanganui way, according to carjam.

My Datsun has a haltech and running std tacho with inductive loop, i just ran the power wire for the coil, coil no1 in your case, through the inductive loop and it works mint.