Tiger Tamer

Radiator mount sorted and working on the fan mounts. I need to get back to the steel shop to get some more 3mm flat. Also checking the fit of the intake. It's good that I don't have to notch out any more of the firewall.

Engine mounts nearly completed , but now the engine is bolted in and the wooden chocks under the sump can go. Gearbox mount next. I now need to build the header around the engine mount. Should be fun.

The new K Power intake turned up today. Only took a week to get to me once sent and came straight to me without getting stung with gst etc. Can a moderator move this to the project build and i will start a discussion thread Pleeease. Sorry for getting it wrong at the start.

The steering shaft is just a bit long with the rack in this position and I want to move it closer to the engine so hopefully I can have it shortened. The pin holding it together at the column end can be removed so hopefully the shaft can be shortened and the pin hole re-drilled. Probably hardened steel so I don't know.

The cooper primed bracket is just tack welded in place to the brake and clutch brackets as they are the most solid place to weld it to. I will weld it fully after it's given the OK. Two extra bolt holes were for my MK1 attempt.

I have fitted the MX5 steering column today, which seems to have worked out quite well. The spline is the same as the Hillman spline which was handy.

A Pic of the rack sitting how it would for a Sunbeam Tiger. I could stand the rack a bit from here but I would really like it to go back further closer to the engine. It would be nice if the fitting in the center could be relocated so I can set the rack closer. The further I can get it back the less of an angle the tie rods will have to the steering arms. Someone told me he had heard the tube can be spun on aluminium which would have the same effect. I will need to speak to a rack reconditioner i suppose. I am going to need to find a oil filter relocation kit and straighten out that rubber water hose. Also notch the inner guard support, but it's looking like it will work.

Thanks, I was wondering if I had it wrong. I will get it moved. Cheers

I am told that the steel is too thin and should be 6mm for engine mounts which is at least twice as thick as anything stock. I will change the design and extend the hanger so the mount sits another 30mm lower when i remake it, but for now I have it stable where I want it. I have bought a MX5 steering column and rack and a MR2 elec hyd pump for the steering. I know the rack and pump will work and hoping the column will be usable as well.

A bit more progress. I removed the intake and water pump which you need to do to get the intake off. I have the engine in the position I want it which clears the cross member which means I can mount a front steer rack the same as the Sunbeam Tiger. Made up the engine mount brackets and hangers which mount to the old steering box mounts. I found some poly mounts for a BMW. Any suggestions welcome.

Decided to set the engine back as far as I can. I will now need to go front steer steering rack. I had a little trimming to do to get the gearbox to go in. Glad it wasn't to much LOL.

Nearly stripped out. I am going to have to set the engine back 100mm max so the firewall will have to be cut a little into the heater box area. I will also need to open up the front opening of the gear box tunnel. It's good by the steering box so I will need fit a steering rack and steering column. I would think a Avenger or Mk2 Escort column and rack may work. I know how to set up a front steer rack on these cross members but you end up with a turning circle of a Bedford truck. Perhaps a new cross member with Mustang 2 components maybe a better way to go. Here is a comparison custom x member which was built for the Sunbeam Tiger which just happen to use the same x member as the Mighty Minx . Something like this would be ideal.

The second drop in to see how much room I have and to figure out what I will need to alter. It can go back about another 25mm but I will have to cut into the firewall a bit as these engines have their water outlet at the now the rear of the head. I will need to replace that with one that doesn't have the hose connection going rearward into the firewall. The front cross member will not fit as is. I will need to see if it can be modified or remake it using the original A arms etc and geometry.

I have the Hillman engine out and the engine bay ready for the first see how it fits. Also the bellhousing mounted on the back of the engine with the obvious in the way, need replacing parts removed. The gearbox turned up today and is a whole lot fatter than the tiny Minx gearbox. Overall the shifter should come out in the same position as the Minx, so that will be helpfull.

Here is the car as bought a couple of years ago. Powered by it's original 1600 engine with 58hp. She's no rocket ship so I will need to get it going a fair bit better. At first I was going to rebuild the engine with a head porting job, Cam , more compression which should get it to approx 90hp. Then had thoughts of Supercharging or Turbocharging it but have finally decided to repower it with a Honda K20a engine out of a Accord. I have done a bit of lowering it as they sit so high in the front especially but a bit more needed. It seems the combined engine gear box weight of the Hillman unit will be quite similar the Honda engine with a Toyota R151 gearbox. Also a couple of photos of some inspiration of one done before with a lot more mods than i will be doing.