Tiger Tamer

Quick up date as it's nearly dinner time. Been working on finishing up and changing a few small things that I wasn't happy with. I did put some petrol in the tank and flushed out the fuel lines. Found a couple that just needed me to tighten my nuts. I will just be doing a few tidy jobs until I can get it into get the final wiring and start up. Anyway I found a little Hillman special vehicle sticker to add. Go figure.

Since I have to use a sealed battery box, I bought a Moroso and fitted it today. The only place it would fit is where I put it which meant I had to put some plate partially over the spare tyre well. I don't need a spare so it doesn't matter and I will probably make a cover for the rest at some point. The battery box is not sitting on a flat surface so of instead of just using the large flat washers supplied I used some 3mm plate for the underside of the boot floor. I can also make a lot shorter earth cable now as well. Anyway, I think I will keep the first attempt box to keep my spare in a can and other bits and pieces. I had to drop the fuel tank to do it, but I have a roll over valve to fit in it, so I had to at some stage.

I sanded down the repaint I did which was full of crap and resprayed it . It's good enough on the drivers side which I did a small test spray on to make sure the new quick dry enamel didn't react with the enamel I had used. All was well, so away I did. That was on the sunny side of the car and of course what possibly could go wrong on the shady side did go wrong. So I will have to have another go at it tomorrow. I decided to turn the car around to get the sun on that side for tomorrow. Anyway in the process I took a pic. What do you think about the fast back look I also have the Sunbeam Tiger in getting dyno-tuned at the moment and he does a lot of work setting up ECU's etc. So Once the Tigers is back home I am taking the Minx in for him to set up the ecu etc and get it going.

I gave the rear seats and door panels a good scrub today and managed to get the paint on. Dries real fast so I didn't have to wait really before putting it back together. Anyway a few pic's.

I did put the bumper and trim on etc but have decided I can't live with the grainy finish so I have bought some more paint to redo it. Shouldn't take much to sand smooth and respray. I have also painted the door panels with a dark charcoal vinyl paint which turned out nice. I still need to remove and paint the rear panels and the back set as well. The base of the back seat needs some mods to the frame for it to fit over the trailing arm covers for the 4 link. I have done one side which seems to have worked quite well. Less work than I thought.

I finished the rear flares etc this week and got them primed yesterday so today I fished out the can of matching enamel paint I had for the car. I had bought it before I started on this repower project as I needed some for a repair. Anyway, it had formed a skin and was quite settled in the tin so I gave it a good stir up and sieved through a paint cone sieve that you get from the paint supply shop. Should be all good I thought. WRONG. Still ended up with tiny particles all through it now which are now on the car. I could see it as soon as I started spraying but decided to carry on with it. It's only a quick spray job so the car is all the same colour until I do the complete repaint. If I can't live with it I will give it a sand down and get some more mixed and respray it. Being like it is, may motivate me to repaint the car sooner rather than later. On the positive there are no runs. Been a while since I sprayed enamel.

Just take the front and rear windscreens out. it will go faster and then you won’t need your motorbike .You won’t need a helmet so you can feel all the wind blowing through your hair.

Right, finally the header is sorted and also the rest of the exhaust. I had used cotton real type exhaust fixtures that keep the exhaust nice and close to the floor but the metal is bonded to the rubber so I didn't want all the weight only on them. I added another bracket so if the cotton reals fail the exhaust can't drop and hit the road. I removed the fugly bend in the tail pipe and made up an exhaust tip to finish it off. Getting close to start up of which I will get some help with. Now see if I can load 4 pic's

Cheers for the reply. Pin 2 The fuse box that this connector is wired to has the relay in it and is their fuse box they supplied with the engine loom, ECU etc as a kit so I am thinking it will need to be used. Ground for the relay? Pin 3

I have been fitting the engine wiring loom-fuse box etc from Kpower. You don't get any instructions as it is their universal wiring loom. Anyway I have a 3 way DTM connector to wire which I am not sure about. Pin 1, I have connected to a fuse box I have fitted which is supplied from the ign switch when on. Pin 2, Starter ground trigger. I presume this is an earth connection to complete the circuit through the ECU as the starter wire on the solenoid must be constant 12v powered ? What do you think. Am I right ? Pin 3 Starter 12v typical hit ? I thought this may connect to the terminal on the ign that supplies power when the key is turned to start position, but I am not sure at all here. I have emailed them and they usually reply in a few days but I thought I would pick your brains as well. Cheers

Well, the joy of finally getting the header sorted was premature and was replaced today with a string of profanity's I didn't even realize I possessed. All was well until I went to refit the steering column and the V clamp was just too close to the column. It's not a big deal and easily fixed. Just means removing it all again. I also went to do the MQS 6-pin connector that fits to the E throttle. I had already done the male connector for the other end but this female one was a bitch. I thought you would crimp the terminals on and push then in until they click in place, Wrong. You need to get the connector apart and take out the locking tabs push the terminals in and refit the tabs and clip back together. Of course, all without breaking anything which is exactly what happened. So, now it's missing one of the tabs that hold it in place but still seems to locate well enough. Also I bought two new Smiths instruments for the gauge pod. A volt gauge and a Vacuum gauge. I always liked the look of the Smiths Vacuum gauge and had one in my Minx I had years ago. So I decided to fill the gap with another and ordered one without looking to closely at what I was buying. I thought it would be the same as I had had and be mechanical and use a tube to a fitting to the intake, but no, it is electronic so I needed to buy a sender which cost another $250. Never mind, just as well I like it. Anyway fitted them and wired them. Another win for the day was that I sealed off the interior steering column to the firewall which is another job ticked off the list.

So I removed the engine mount and adjusted it for clearance for the bottom V clamp and refitted the engine mount and went to fit the tube, and of course it fouled the mount about halfway along its length. Bastard. So out it all came again, and I had to cut the tube in two places and add a piece in at the top and weld it all up again. BUT not before trial fitting it and all became well in my world. Probably for a very short time but I will take it. Of course, changing the drop length of the header means the rest of the exhaust didn't fit so I have started on that. The muffler sat a little low anyway and the tail pipe had an fugly bend in it so I will correct those two faults and add a V clamp into the tail pipe so it can be removed from the rest of the exhaust.