dmulally

Picked up the AJ6 which isnt even for this car. Including the incredibly rare manual bellhousing and flywheel

Will be an AJ6 belhousing grafted/bolted to a Nissan CD009 gearbag.

About 15-20 years ago I road rallied a 510 for a weekend. For a car with twin DCOE's it was surprisingly efficient and was a well balanced car. Really couldn't fault it. I had a 1972 alfa GTC 1750 at the time and that felt like a slug by comparisson. CA18 and 5 speed if it were mine.

Ended up requesting stock. Cbf'd retuning. Here is the adapter and cast manifold I have been waiting ages for. The maf housing looks in the way so have sent a message to ASLmods to see if my ecu is a mafless tune or not. Here is a cool looking engine for something interesting.

Was having a rare think and Im wondering if I upgrade in any way I might need a retune. There's another 6 months so stuff that.

Going to order a 350z clutch fork and throw out bearing unless anybody has any better ideas?

Ended up getting a new head as the old one ended up having two cracks in it. Too many projects...

Holy shit...some parts arrived! So I'm able to press on and try and get this thing happening. I took the turbo in to get inspected before I get it mounted so I don't have to worry about it for a while. I got this back from the turbo dude: Hi mate, the turbocharger is stripped for inspection and have found general wear of main and thrust bearings, piston rings/seals and carboning of the nozzle ring assembly. The compressor wheel has wear on the outer edges of the leading blade tips likely caused by a breach of particles through the air filter. The VNT nozzle ring is contaminated heavily with carbon but can be cleaned/serviced The turbine housing to exhaust manifold bolts were loose when stripped. There is only a few options for a replacement compressor wheel, either a OE cast alloy wheel or a aftermarket billet compressor wheel in standard size considered a slight upgrade(+10%). I managed to find a picture of the IOD manifold top mount adapter and believe I have the positioning of the housings and VNT nozzle assembly in the right place. Quotes and options to remanufacture and modify- Labour- strip, inspect and quote on turbocharger service and adapt VNT assembly- 198.38 (completed) Labour- clean all parts, fit service kit, adapt VNT assembly to suit top mount adapter- 396.76 OE Service kit- 214.69 Compressor wheel- Cast alloy OE 232.10 -or- Billet 11+0 extend tip 327.60 (both ex-Europe estimated 14 days) Balance shaft assembly- 98.50 Total is -1140.43 with OE cast compressor wheel or -1235.93 with a billet compressor wheel. The existing compressor wheel could be used again if you wish, the wear on the outer tip edges will not change the integrity or strength just the spool. Alternatively I can supply a new aftermarket complete turbocharger for 989.00 ex-USA. Labour- strip aftermarket turbo and modify the nozzle ring to suit the top mount configuration -198.38. Total including strip and inspect the original turbocharger is -1385.76. The parts available ex-overseas (compressor wheel or aftermarket turbocharger) would be invoiced before ordering. Let me know if you have any questions. Anybody have any suggestions or opinions at which way to go with the above? Also, the adapter for the top mount to get it off the engine is in and is mild steel. I figure powder coating it is a waste of time so before I just send it as is, should I look at getting it coated with anything? Flue paint baked on perhaps?

I dont really know my way round mitsi's so the whole narrow/wide bellhousing thing made it all too hard. Ill see what the machine shop says about the engine. It should just need a head skim and gasket but who knows. If the engine is toast Ill have to put my thinking cap on.

The machine shop said to drop the head off on Wednesday. Technically I did.

Yeah I had good success in the past with that. But I find when the mouse piss smell gets in, no amount of the stuff will stop them coming back.

Too late.

Yeah because I wont be checking the cars for weeks at a time I dont want poison (bad for cats and dogs) and dont want kill ones for the stink. Would prefer a repellant but no idea what works. I put my big boy torch under it and saw a bit of light so looks like I have a bunch of cable/wire holes that need plugging for starters.

So the 340s has been for sale for a week or so and apart from the usual Barry chats which I don't mind and asking if it's still available, nothing doing. I had to work on some shelving on the weekend so I dislodged it from where it usually marks its spot in the garage. A couple of things of note. Mice have moved in. The peppermint scent doesn't work anymore and in fact I think they like it. Fucken cunts. The cats who are highly trained killers are only good for catching rodents outside the car. Not inside. Fucken cunts. I need to find a mouse trap that isn't poisonous. I also figured out how to wire in the starter carb. For those that don't know, the XK powered jags have a smaller third carb in between the twin carbs that is also known as a hisser (not the AED - Automatic enrichment device on later XJ's). Blimey what a difference. What would take quite some time starting the car now takes an instant. Should have done that years ago. Anyway I'm really not sure what to do with it. I'd be completely fine putting it away in hibernation (especialy as it drives) but the mice will destroy it. Nobody is buying it even at $5K which is what the seats cost me to retrim so I'm in no man's land with it. I could possibly take the seats out and leave the windows down so the cats could keep it clear of mice but that seems annoying. Getting it up to wof standard will take time and then I doubt anybody will want to buy it with the market in the toilet and s types being the ugly cousin of Mk2's in spite of being superior in many ways. Hmmm not sure really.

It's all getting into the to hard basket. I might just whip the head off and take it in to get reconditioned. Hoping that being an iron block the block isn't the issue. I need to get a fan shroud or electric fans on the radiator too. Not that I recall it ever overheating but there is a mile between the fan and the rad and I'm ntot sure that does anything.