dmulally

Good move in deleting it.

New year. Different shitbox. I've just completed a diff swap and the speedo is way out. As I want to piss the running gear off for something more farm friendly, rather than pull the gearbox back out I might as well do the speedo nonsense now. Does anybody happen to know how to set up a VSS from a hall effect sensor reliably? I was going to use this. Which takes a GPS or VSS. In fact it looks like it needs to GPS initially to calibrate. For the VSS it says: Acceptable signals range from 1-100V. 500-250,000 pulses per mile. For two-wire speedometer sensors: connect either wire to the Speedbox’s VSS wire, and connect the other wire to common ground. The two wires can be reversed. A quick google and I found a three wire hall effect sensor. Anybody got any tips or tricks for getting this to work? Cheers

So I think the vibration drama may have been solved. I got some Urvan wheels from a car yard for $25 each and swapped the rears over. Vibration gone. Super frustrating as they got balanced 6 months ago when I got the tires put on. Now I'm wondering if the Imp vibration is the same thing as the same place put those on. I've spent so much money trying to dial it out of both cars so if that's the Imp's issue then I'll get my tyres done further afield. The worst part is that until the tyres are rebalanced I have to drive around with skinny Urvan stockies. My social points in Martinborough have taken a dip that's for sure. But seeing as I'm Aussie and under the age of 90 I was already tanking.

This is my Lister L and the noise is hard to describe. The below pic has the original exhaust but I swapped it for one that ran up and out the shed wall then down to a barrel of water. It sounds like an old washing machine on spin cycle rather than exhaust banging. It has a priming cup that is that small brass upright before the head. If that uses petrol to crank it, it'll run on most anything after that. With petrol it runs the strongest but with stale fuel or kero it just misses a few beats and the momentum keeps it going until it can ignite off another kick. That machine there ran Wellesley College in Wellington during WW1. It now runs a simple alternator. I haven't experimented with my diesel lister which is roughly the same size and runs a lot stronger. It's a lot more modern being from the 1930's. The L above is from 1912 iirc.

= I have a few of them. One I run as my backup generator for my off grid setup. I have a petrol and a diesel lister that both seem to run on just about anything combustible.

So you're saying to cut off three coils. Gotcha.

Took it for a drive into town this morning and she was a peach. Thankfully I didn't have to rev the engine to stop from stalling at crosswalks with concerned pedestrians hurrying to get across. I think the front springs could lose an inch or two. Thoughts?

I think I solved it but will need to take it for a good run tomorrow. Looking positive so far though after a quick lap up the road and back with no dramas. I took out the primary idle jet (I think) and blew it out a few times and cleaned it out. Back in and idles nicely now.

It has a new filter on it too. Zero issues at full throttle so Im not sure it's that. It's behaving like a vacuum leak.

It has been working like a champ for 6 months though. I'll give it a crack however.

Hi All, Still chasing down that vibration and I'm up to getting the wheels rebalanced. They were supposedly balanced when I put the new tyres on but I'm running out of things to swap over. Anyway I'm having a more immediate drama with the 4g63 at the moment. I'm having problems with a really rough idle. I have bumped up the idle screw to help but it's not a fix. It will cut out when coming to a stop in neutral and cough and fart at low rpms. Driving is fine. I used some wd40 and when that didn't work I tried the laughing gas to check for a vacuum leak. Couldn't find anything apparent. I took out the idle screw out of the weber 32/36 ( @Bearded Baldy is that what it has?) and cleaned it and put it back in and no joy. I haven't touched the timing but when it's out it pings it's nut off at revs. Another thing which may be of note is that it has pretty bad run on/dieseling. I know how to fix that in a small block chev but not on this. Happy to take a video if that helps.

Been a while since I updated this but there have been a couple of things done. The brakes got sorted. Turns out I had to adjust them so there was quite a bit more drag than I would have normally done. I had to swap over some components too but I forget what those were. Probably a slave. I had it all booked in for LVV so I could at least get the list of works to do whilst I am not working and after a long and comfortable drive I thought Id check the fluids. Blown head gasket. Typical. So I cancelled the inspection and parked it in the shed to stop bird shit from landing on the gravel. The ea81 I picked up from @cubastreet just got finished being fully reco'd and I have grabbed that. Seems a waste putting such a nice engine in such a cursed car. Anybody have a gen 1 brumby or baja bug floating around they want to offload? Anyway when I cbf'd Ill drag it into the workshop and switch the engines over. It was diabolically fast with the 1600cc so with the ea81 it should be a lot of fun. Because I'm going to forget, the engine builder said I need to run the break in oil and plain water for 500kms then oil/filter change with 20w/50 semi synthetic or mineral oil with fresh water and the additive he gave me.

Unrelated but why do they call it goon? In my native cuntry that is what a box of wine is called.

@HumberSS has bullied/groomed me into looking at a shitbox that is living in a container in Swannanoa. Old mate suggests the 21st or 24th of August but Im sure that can be sorted. It's mostly a is it a total piece of shit or an actual write off type eyeball. If anybody can help please sing out. Cheers Damo

1978 I think.