dmulally

I put my DC EWP in the front of the Imp and it was fine. I routed the radiator coolant pipes through the body of the imp where the heater lines went rather than over the floor. To this day the worst job I have ever completed on any car. In regards to the lotus 7 overheating I had the same problem on my old 4age PRB. Through a combo of angling the front number plate to channel airflow up (bottom of which was at sump height so if I scraped on a speed bump I reversed out of there), changing to a SPAL fan from the repco cheapie electric fan, and redline water wetter I got it down from 110 degrees in traffic to around 90.

All good

That is what I thought but apparently I need a replacement one if I cannot find it. Which I cannot. Carjam says what it is here: https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=bbq488&fbclid=IwAR2q5IfEEX5J1-MyxtPaBPMoFgXY2lnr-erYAs4I6vSZzoNCDV82Vk3dnt4 And going to the NZTA site is as erotic as it is helpful and seems to be aimed at repairers who can access their system.

Hi All, I'm struggling to find the VIN on my Commer Van. The engineer needs a pic of it for LVV cert. I can find it on carjam and I can find the chassis and body number but the VIN is eluding me thus far. If it turns out I can't find it, am I going to have to drag it down to VINZ? Lord help me...

Welding stuff on once powdercoated is a pain. I'd just go wire wheel and POR-15. Don't go out of your way to make the chassis super clean. POR stands for Paint Over Rust so it adheres better in my experience. On clean steel I have had it flake off. Even when keyed.

Sounds like it needed a bit of scuffing first.

I guess so but you'd be sanding for aaaages afterwards and then buffing

It is for my C20. I cant decide on a colour and it has far too many rattle can touch ups for my liking. You know the ones where they thought nobody would notice but just looks crap.

Hey, does anybody know what the legalities are in driving around a vehicle in bare metal/only a clear coat?

Not that I can recall. Even if it were sidedraft it would have some problems. I think if I pulled the carbs apart and had 1" straight tubes it would be ok. But I needed to angle the runners and that pushed them out a little. It is up and running now with the weber so I won't be looking at bike carbs again. They are in my ever increasing parts bin for shit I shouldn't have bought.

What do you need to know specifically? I used to have one in italy about 20 years ago.

I'd personally not bother but then I drive like a nanna both on and off the track. Providing you could weld some plates with captured nuts in the right areas, I'd make it bolt in. But if you're not circuit racing I wouldn't bother as it would be unlikely that you'd be T-boned.

I have not only a C20 vanette, but an SC12 and a commer van carb hat. All can be had for rip off high prices.

Are the mounts on the front of the engine or middle? I have a sunbeam rapier engine in my commer van with a lexus 6 speed. If doing it again I would look at a nissan vanette diesel with 5 speed as it has a cable shifter. I have one if you want one. Either that or enlarge the dog box and use a holden red. A Daimler V8 will fit length wise but probably not width.

Looks similar to a holden grey or red motor 3 speed box. If doing again Id go holden red with an auto and just change the diff.