Rookie

I would be tempted to do the whole lot in 8mm alloy hard line with AN fittings on either end and then just get the an - hose barb fitting that fits the size soft line you need. I seem to remember that there are some fairly specific rules around fuel lines and mounting, what do you say @cletus?

If it is 2 wire then without a doub it is a NTC sensor, so it is just a variable resistor, there is no polarity so no worries there, the calibration might be a different thing though, easy enough to figure out with an accurate thermometer and a decient ECU, just see what the analog voltage is at room temp, and then again at 100 °c and then a couple more points in between, it wont be linear. It should look something like the data for this bosch one. https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_70129803_Temperature_Sensor_NTC_M12-L.pdf

I wouldn't say a habit, but it does happen, for example I had a brand new Ricks regulator that output 18.5 volts at idle, so manufafcturing defects do happen. These systems are fairly simple, how much out of range was the original one? Did it output ac voltage on the charging side of the stator?

Has anyone tried swapping a billet wheel from the likes of Mambatek onto a turbo in the home shop before? Im aware of the balancing issues, but I have a turbo that got the wheel pulled off it at 3am one night on streetweek and reassembled that has been doing the duty for the last 5000km so it is looking like the likely recipient. Just curious if it was even remotely a success?

Assuming you have an ECU that can do it properly, ie, open the throttle blade to 50+% and has the right kind of stratergy implemented when needed then, I see no reason it couldn't help you to keep temps under control, definitely worth a shot, I don't have any specific numbers but my guess would be you would save around 30% of the heat load at idle, so it isn't insignificant. So your comment to Leone was a pointless one; the dude asked a genuine question about using it for heat reduction and you answered in a way that made him think he was on the wrong track when he wasn't. Do better.

WTF are you talking about? how would its function be any different on a road car compaired to a race car? It is still used on conjunction with a fan, I guess seeings as you are asking about it you understand the working principle, but basically it is like PWM for your engine, I would imagine it would be a useful stratergy on a car that had a cooling system on the edge, so like fine if moving, normal traffic etc, but get caught in an accident queue and it would overheats type deal.

@Testament

Did you check the auxillary battery? if they are dead then all sorts of crazy faults can occur.

I was lucky enough to work with a dude that used to be a autobody teacher at a polytech, so for a $100 each I got Iwata w400, deVilbiss GPi, deVilbiss GTi Pro, Satajet 4000. I can tell you that none of them have made my painting better, but at least I can't blame my tools. If I actually had to pay for them though I would spring for the deVilbiss GPi (I think it is called the GPG now) with the 1.4 needle, and get a china W400 as a primer gun.

Are you sure it isn't just the schrader valve that needs replacing?

Do AC evaparators even have connections inside the car these days? My next AC project will be the chevy, and they whole evaparator is outside the cabin, so short of a leak in the actual tube and fins then there is no risk of it putting LPG into the cabin.

I too run LPG in my daily, A+ would trade again. in reality the fuel load from a few 100gs of lpg will doo very little in terms of accelerant if the car is on fire compaired to the 50 or so litres of petrol. Not to mention that it is unlikely to hang around in the event of a punctured system. I used camping gas in the 450g cans, here they are a mix of propane and butane, or pure butane, so I fiddled around with the mix to get it to be cold without freezing.

@Rhyscar If you legitimately want good performance I think the only way is to go for ceramic mat and stainless sheet. I first came across this process from these dudes in Finland, https://www.kylmalakustoms.fi/ and was pretty impressed by the videos he put up about it on his instagram. Since then I looked into it myself, and after talking to a buddy of mine that races the Stockholm open, it turns out that all you really need is the raw products and a battery cell spot welder, all of which you can get on Aliexpress. I'll probably do my exhaust manifold and dump pipe on the truck once I actually settle on the turbo configuration, but I think that would suit what you are after. Ceramic Blanket Stainless Sheet Spot Welder

Great work RPMDave, I throroughly enjoyed nearly 5 figure RPMs!

Day 5: Vågårda Raceway We had Pretty high hopes going into the day, 2 PBs in 2 days will do that to you, so we got to thinking about suspension setup and how to improve the 60', which despite the faster time had been significantly slower than it had been previously. A bit of an AHA moment; Last year I setup a 2 step, and due to how a diesel works, ie fuel control, a 2 step works by cutting fuel, this in turn cuts power, so basically while the launch is much more consistant it is slower. With that disengaged and a bit more preload on the caltracs we queued up, the day was scorching hot, so we decided to try and get an early run in so we wouldn't have to wait in the heat all day. Also, maybe somewhat foolishly, I had the truck idling to warm up before giving it hell. I think I was the third car to run that day. It left hard but then fell on it's face, I quickly jumped into the logs while waiting for the return run, and nothing was really wrong, weird. Anyway, it was time to head back to the pits, so I started it up and low and behold there were some unwanted noises coming from the engine bay. BAD Noises, Bugger. Anyway, here we were a long way from home with a termanlly broken motor. So we grab a beer and have a think about how we fix this mess. We start scanning Market Place looking for another motor, we asked a few of the other racers, and came up empty handed, so we started figuring out plan B. I talked to Lennart, and he said we could stash the truck at his place, so we got on the blower to roadside assistance. They offered to deliver it to the nearest Chevrolet dealer, which I politely declined without trying to give the game away, but I offered that there was a local mechanic that was closer and potentially more suited to the job, they jumped at the offer to save money, so the tow truck was on its way, Phillip and I quickly packed up camp, ripped the stickers off and got to waiting. We loaded up the truck and headed to Gibb performance. With the truck unloaded at Gibb, we got to drowning our sorrows and planning our trip home. We were looking at a pretty reasonable train ride home, so with that in mind we crashed in the camper and decided to tackle it the next day. I let Lennart know that I would find another motor and be back in a couple of weeks to do a motor swap so I could get the truck out of his hair.