Rookie

I'm not an expert but I sat through material science 101 at some point, I think the rod broke, then the bolt, and then the cap. What was left of the rod swinging around the crank, windowed the block, and in doing so, hit the rod bolt, bending and then breaking it (that could also explain the dent on the side of the bolt head), then the cap let go at the end because it was only held on by one bolt..

Aside from the American propaganda, Europe is actually reasonablely legislated in some respects, ie, unbraked trailers don't need a safety chain. I will say though you missed commenting on my homemade drawbar extension which IS actually illegal here...

With the new motor in place it was just a matter of hooking everything up. After 2 Days and approximately 200 beers, the motor was in and running, the maiden voyage was a success, so we crashed for the night and the next day packed up, loaded the camper and set off for home. About an hour and a half from home the left rear wheel bearing started making noises, but after the episode I had been through I just turned the radio up, We got home without a drama so I'll chalk that up as a win...

So long time no update, I have started working on this again so I figured I need to get this up to date so I can document the changes. Basically after the disaster that was Street Week, I got to finding a new motor, I tried all of the normal avenues and got skunked. In passing I was talking to a mate and he said he would see what he can do. A couple of days later he rang and said he had found one at a local used car parts place, I went and had a look, it seemed alright, the price was fair, but it was sold as "scrap", so I took the gamble and loaded it on the trailer. It turned out that it was actually out an S class, so it had a few different parts on it, ie vacuum pump, front sump instead of a rear sump etc etc, luckily I noticed this before we left to Sweden, so I pulled the sump off my spare junk motor and got to packing. it was a 6 hour drive up to Lennarts, so the wife and I got plenty of snacks and got to driving. We arrived without too much hastle, and was greeted by Lennart, where he showed me the workshop where we could get after it. The first thing was to get the camper off, almost immediately one of the drives in the legs broke so it couldn't be raised or lowered, off to a cracking start then... After that was sorted, we go into the bay and got to work, Maria prepped the new motor and I got to pulling out the old one. While the motor was out I got to adjusting the trans tunnel, there had been a vibration that I thought was the top of the gearbox hitting the floor, but it wasn't that...

Let me know how ya get on because I still haven't solved the issue myself.

You're in the rabbit hole Bart, good luck. the Mounting holes are forward of the axle tube to allow for easy adjustment from the bottom of the top bar, if it is over the axle tube you can't really get the big spanner you need for the jam nut in there. Typical bracket widths are 16-24", with 18" being very common. I would go 18" as it dramatically improves you chance of being able to pick up a second hand housing that fits. The coilover is an integral part of the tuning, so that also needs to be adjustable./ just buy(copy) the brackets, you wont save much by not doing it. KevinWilsonSBC makes really good videos about suspension tuning. To sumise my learnings on the matter: You are always wrong, and only trial and error can save you. Get more holes than less, like I said, you will be wrong, so make it adjustable. Everyone will have an opinion on your setup. /get leafs and caltracs...

I am ashamed to admit how much time I used on trying to make this work, and it still not working, I have resigned myself to buying the box that Clint posted or alternatively trying this https://forbes-automotive.com/products/speedpulser?variant=52720568238422

You can have a injector with a bad spray pattern that leaks down ok. With it idling and missfiring, unplug the injectors one by one to see if you can isolate it to one injector. If you can isolate it to one injector then try moving it to another hole and see if the missfire moves with the injector, if it does, then good, if it doesn't then you might have low compression on that hole. When you deleted the egr did you get it tuned or did you just put a blanking plate?

I would be tempted to do the whole lot in 8mm alloy hard line with AN fittings on either end and then just get the an - hose barb fitting that fits the size soft line you need. I seem to remember that there are some fairly specific rules around fuel lines and mounting, what do you say @cletus?

If it is 2 wire then without a doub it is a NTC sensor, so it is just a variable resistor, there is no polarity so no worries there, the calibration might be a different thing though, easy enough to figure out with an accurate thermometer and a decient ECU, just see what the analog voltage is at room temp, and then again at 100 °c and then a couple more points in between, it wont be linear. It should look something like the data for this bosch one. https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_70129803_Temperature_Sensor_NTC_M12-L.pdf

I wouldn't say a habit, but it does happen, for example I had a brand new Ricks regulator that output 18.5 volts at idle, so manufafcturing defects do happen. These systems are fairly simple, how much out of range was the original one? Did it output ac voltage on the charging side of the stator?

Has anyone tried swapping a billet wheel from the likes of Mambatek onto a turbo in the home shop before? Im aware of the balancing issues, but I have a turbo that got the wheel pulled off it at 3am one night on streetweek and reassembled that has been doing the duty for the last 5000km so it is looking like the likely recipient. Just curious if it was even remotely a success?

Assuming you have an ECU that can do it properly, ie, open the throttle blade to 50+% and has the right kind of stratergy implemented when needed then, I see no reason it couldn't help you to keep temps under control, definitely worth a shot, I don't have any specific numbers but my guess would be you would save around 30% of the heat load at idle, so it isn't insignificant. So your comment to Leone was a pointless one; the dude asked a genuine question about using it for heat reduction and you answered in a way that made him think he was on the wrong track when he wasn't. Do better.

WTF are you talking about? how would its function be any different on a road car compaired to a race car? It is still used on conjunction with a fan, I guess seeings as you are asking about it you understand the working principle, but basically it is like PWM for your engine, I would imagine it would be a useful stratergy on a car that had a cooling system on the edge, so like fine if moving, normal traffic etc, but get caught in an accident queue and it would overheats type deal.

@Testament