Rhyscar

Awesome, glad to hear you're enjoying driving it. Near on 300kw is a lot for anything that's street driven!

Keeping all the oil in would be a big feat! Road legal might be another challenge, not quite sure which way the cards will fall on the budget to get it road legal at this stage But keen to lock in a weekend away regardless!

Yeah keen on an OS weekend away to watch some motorsport. Getting the car down there will be a bit of a stretch, unfortunately, unless someone is planning on driving down and could tow it for me?

I’m putting it down to the thread adapter walking out of the poorly machined housing… pretty over all the issues, so time to make it simpler and less custom. https://au.helperformance.com/hel-thermostatic-oil-filter-sandwich-plate Should be able to reduce number of fittings to 2 and use a standard oil filter and thread adapter.

Valve spring in exchange for a few litres of oil on the floor seems like a steep price to pay?!

So be finally found some time to write a little about the time on the dyno with @kpr. Been a busy few weeks travelling for work and being sick, so finally getting back into the shed 😮‍💨🤢 Lexus gs350 being a boss daily and towing with high volumes of comfort, sport and doort 😉 So everything looked ok straight off the bat. Massive amounts of oil pressure, dropping off a bit up top but still 76psi! First big issue was fuel pressure. After the last dyno session, I bought a turbosmart fuel pressure regulator I was assured would solve the problem of the non-adjustable c5 corvette regulator. It did not, and in fact, showed similar symptoms of not holding a steady pressure on throttle so we went over everything in the fuel system trying to find something that could explain this. Fortunately, KPR figured out it was a low pressure spring in the regulator. amazingly, a old 20v valve spring came to the rescue, being about the right size for its a bit of grindering to hold steady fuel pressure! This all makes sense when you look at the model code…🤣🤣 So now I’ve got the high pressure version of this. Good thing about having multiple cars is this is actually perfect for the ke20 rally car which we’ve had regulator issues with being too small for the pump it runs. So this should solve that problem at least. As @Roman predicted scarily accurately, he was in fact needed to catch the oil filter 🤣🤣 the 2zz managed to empty all its oil over the dyno and floor making a massive mess (sorry Kris!!). The link did and awesome job of catching this - dropping rpms as pressure was lost. So anyway a bit of background on power number. First run of the day was 110kw on the old tune (120kw at HPR, had reduced fuel pressure, which the Link should have adjusted for), so confirmed dyno readings are comparable-ish. As soon as Kris put his tune in, it picked up to around 130kw… managed to tune the bottom end vvti before all the oil exited the engine. With these small improvements it made 136kw, with plenty more refinement to come once the rest of vvti is tuned and crossover comes down a bit. Good new is it doesn’t have any limitations or weird stuff going on anywhere in the rev range - which hopefully means there’s plenty of head room left. One thing that is a little limited is the injectors. The factory injectors are starting to struggle a bit, will make a bit more power but not heaps more. So it was back on the trailer and back to Hamilton that night. After some investigation, I found the oil filter seal blew out thus time around. It could have been slightly loose, but I actually thing it’s wound itself off due to a very shoddy internal thread on the relocation kit. One positive I guess is it confirms I need to throw this whole setup in the bin! been looking into sandwich plates (which I’ve always ruled out as not fitting) that look like they’ll fit. Can also get fitted with a thermostat to get the oil warm faster. For now, I’ve just chucked a standard filter in there and it works great no leaks 🤣 I’ve replaced all the autometer senders so my double check gauges actually read the same as the link sensors. Been doing the last few sheetmetal jobs this week or two when time allows. Bead rolling and fitting door cards and making the front bumper radiator ducting. Lots of work still to go, but starting to see the finished solutions come together. Once I’ve finished these off, it will be the last load of parts for powdercoating 😭 onwards and upwards, this bloody thing ain’t going to finish itself!!

Geez thats great power from an old b20! Imagine if a 3s made that sort of power @Truenotch 100% +1 for 3" inch exhausts. Just got to go with a good muffler to keep the tangs in check.

Damn, shits gotten expensive. Plus queenstown tax no doubt. Just wait for it to start snowing and you'll know its the right time to paint it yourself. Perfect opportunity to treat yourself to a chillyrim too!

This is cool. Great to see rear swaybar worked a treat. Bonus cheapo upgrade might be stiff front swaybar and upgraded bump stops all round. Will improve handling until such a time you can properly address spring rates.

Not the silliest idea ever @Stu. Lotus Evora with the 2gr V6 came factory with a Eaton M120 looking supercharger.. no doubt it was too small for any serious performance, but would be an easy upgrade (if you could fit it under the bonnet). Looks like around 400hp is possible with a simple supercharger install. More than enough for a small car.

2GR bolts up to (roughly speaking, minor mods needed) E-series GT4 box. Guys in jamaca have a lot of fun with them. Not necessarily the 4cyl screamer you might be hoping for, but cheap, easy to do and an easy 300+ hp before you boost it.

Super interesting comparison @Roman. So you're saying that -50kg is roughly equivalent to +10hp in straightline performance... Now a K series will provide a lot more improvement than that (150kw seems to be starting point for just bolt in and go), but probably be OK with stock ratios in a lightweight car, and low-mid range torque optimised. And of course, I believe a decent diff is non-negotiable for almost any car. It's looking like a more power, rather than better gear ratios would be the most beneficial gain.

@kpr you’ve really opened the can of worms with a lot of that development stuff having a dyno handy and the time/skills to make different iterations of stuff and then testing it using actual science. Most of us will have one or two trips to the dyno, call it good enough and not go any further. But starting to see more and more like you say there plenty of power gains available for fairly minimal input. @mjrstar if you could find 10-15% extra power with a bit of effort would a gearing upgrade still be worthwhile? Hmm 🤔 k/f series route is cool and all, but is expensive these days. No longer wrecker motors. I always really like the b20 setups and reckon they sound the tits with cams etc. perhaps even vvti on a b series?? Also don’t buy someone else’s half cooked project. Unless it’s already winning races, it’s not worth it (but it’ll be way more expensive!)

When we developed dad's AE82 Corolla 10-15yrs ago, this is the order we did it in. 1. Lightweight carbon roof, bonnet, boot. Cost approx $8k to build custom items 2. Moderate power level - 140kw, basically stock engine internally, cams etc approx $10k engine 3. M-factory gearkit - this worked great until dad had an elder moment and forgot to put oil in it.. at the time this was around $4k 4. Big power, forged engine, CNC head etc, lots of valve failures, 100hr lifed engine $20k min 5. Quaife sequentially shifted dog box $12k + full rebuild on delivery to fix manufacturing errors 6. Full underfloor aero mods, carbon fibre all panels $fuckinlots It always performed better than expected up until around step 3. Mainly because we started with lightweight stuff first, getting it to 814kg or something silly before adding other mods. I always thought it should have never gone past step 3 as it was an awesomely reliable car that gave almost no problems at that point, but dad was determined to make it the fastest most expensive corolla in history. Currently sits in the shed, not getting used cause it's tricky to get everything running right, and needs a mechanic to get it to run properly. That's been my experience anyway. I don't think I'll go past a final drive in the Levin, better off being used like your civic, if not perfect. Generally, cars go faster with new tyres than with the same value in new parts.