shrike

LOL I was thinking of just swapping the Fuel pump relay wire thats ground off ecu to be ground to chassis and then every-time the car is turned on the fuel pump is running Is this your MAF? MAF Sensor Although most users of Haltech ECUs will be deleting the MAF, it is possible to use a MAF if you prefer. It also incorporates an Air Temperature Sensor, so if the MAF Sensor is removed a new Air Temperature Sensor must be installed in the intake. 1UZ Early The early 1UZ use a Frequency based MAF Sensor. It is not a normal 0-5V signal. Pin OEM Wire Colour Connection 1 Brown Signal Ground 2 Yellow/Black Air Temperature (AVI) 3 Yellow/Green MAF Signal (SPI or DPI) 4 Blue/Red 5V+ 5 Brown Signal Ground

Note you can add ethrottle to the Storm G4+ later if you need with an expansion module https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET Link do one but there are other DBW modules around that should also work

What kind of plug do those sensors use? are they a deutsch plug?

Do you have a known good supplier or are the aliexpress connectors ok?

Thread revival, have decided based on other reading milspec bulkhead connectors aren't worth the effort/cost and to just have a grommet I can pull loom plugs through etc However been thinking about injector/coil looms that can be detached from the main engine loom Does anyone have a recommendation on a male/female plug kit with pins? Injectors 9 or 10 pin plug (1x12awg power split to 8x22awg, 8x22awg switched ground) allows for staged injectors 5 pin plug (1x12awg power split to 4x22awg, 4x22awg switched ground) and id wire two up and have two 4x injector looms so it doesn't need to be plugged in to start Coilpacks 6pin (12awg power split into 4 x 20awg, 1x12awg gnd wired to head split to 4x 20awg, 4x20awg signals from ecu)

https://www.pulsarturbo.com.au/collections Some alright pricing here as well

Is there anything you can put down the valve to try and dissolve any potential build up that could be causing it to have seating issues?

All good, im assuming the Camgears are the same between motors? unlike the K20 and K24 Just thought it might give you inspiration :p he did have to clearance the piston valve pockets to use the extra range as well

He also goes through machining the cam phasers for more movement and timing shift, think they get it up from 40degree to 55degree of movement

For when you get FXE pistons :p

Cam overlap is also a rabbit hole to look at :p

Need to add the links to your sig :p

If your doing wiring anyway, a rb20de neo plus turbo isn't a bad option I have more exposure to the neo then the normal VCT heads but I think your right its on off and not variable however from memory the Neo heads flow better I wouldn't bother stroking the 20 to 22, I like your long rod idea tbh on the 25 I wonder if you could retrofit the CVVTCS off something like the 350/370Z onto the RB similar to what KPR has done from the VVTI 2J onto the 4age A little more compression will help with spool and off boost (9.5-10:1) Cam wise id be starting at 272's with as much lift as you can get, and the VCT will help with lower down, if you can get CVVTCS working as an option you could possibly go bigger or have better under the curve power

Rather then double post, to add some context the K24 build I'm slowly putting together for my AE111 is going to be using a Pulsar 6262 (equivalent of a G35-900) as the K24 flow really well, run higher comp (11:1) and with Vtec you can get good response etc Really need more info around how your setting up the motor and what sizing etc Last time I looked at High revving RB, I was looking at a 25de/t neo with a 20de crank and all the usual oil pump mods etc

I'd be looking at the G30 frame rather then the G25 for an RB as a starting point, the cheaper Pulsar turbos are fine and have good results G30-770 T4 twin scroll 1.06a/r is good for about 500hp on an rb25/26 The G30-660 with an 0.83 AR and T3 should do the kind of power your looking at, which is a PULSAR 5455G Id go bigger A/R as your revving it out and have cams "A GTX3076r is the direct equivalent of a G30-770 (58/55). The G30-660 is the direct replacement of a GTX3071r (54/55)." if that gives you idea on sizing A Gtx3071r will do circa 411whp on 22psi (E85) with a 0.73AR https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103095-rb20-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page/21/#findComment-7892710 Positive boost at 2500 and full boost around 4k note the G30 series and its clones are more efficient and should spool better Hope that helps Edit adding to this most of the kits for RB20/25 over here have the G30-660 as the smallest turbo option @xsspeed are you using a neo head and variable valve timing at all?