shrike

Neat Gearboxes doing more AZ6 options https://www.facebook.com/100063488412549/posts/1060861386040132/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v I know youve hoarded gearboxes but nice to have some more options, not sure what your V6 will do torque wise either

Isn't the main reason for the subie rumble because of unequal length headers?

That's annoying, at least you've found the issue tho, do you think it's able to be saved by surface grinding or time for another one?

I have this mental image of you both lining up with 6-8 people behind/on each car to attempt pushing them both down the 1/8th (1/4 is too far haha) I don't wish that on either of you but it would show the oldschool spirit and be a laugh. I'm keen to see both cars moving under their own power.

Is it mild steel or stainless?

Sounds like you need a turbo jet turbine :p

Been on a motorbike lately?

That is so annoying, but atleast you've ruled out iacv, and tuning. Got a pressure tester or option to run some smoke?

Mini alternator running off the flywheel on the orginal starter motor location Example https://www.proflow.com.au/alternator-80-amp-holden-chevrolet-internal-regula~11792

I'd be looking at a crank collar, and the oil pump gear upgrade if your not going dry sump. The crank collar is a no brainer if youve the motor stripped down, and oil pumps are a weak link (even the N1) for RB motors especially when you haven't got the crank collar The factory crank girdle is pretty stout but I'd do uprated hardware as a minimum. I'm not sure that an upgraded one and billet caps are needed for your targets, I mean it won't hurt but from what I've seen it's not required. Obviously do your own research and make the decision on if it's worth the cost An uprated Harmonic dampener or a new oem one may also be worth getting as the factory ones are long in the tooth and I've heard of failures (splitting) depends how much you'll be holding high revs for though. I'd be at least doing a through inspection. There was people who had issues with Ross ones back In the day or the bolts not being tight enough on oem ones etc

Hey are you going for a crank collar and an upgraded oil pump gear?

I think ae111 and ae101 rear calipers may work

Is200/altezza had a jdm exhaust which had one https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-silent-hi-power-exhaust-system-sxe10.html

Are you sure you haven't lost a socket/tool/bolt/nut somewhere? Super frustrating having a noise you can't pin down I've had one or two cars in the past that I've just turned the stereo up and ignored unknown noises that I've confirmed aren't mechanical issues Was watching a guy put an Audi S6 back together on YouTube recently that had been misdiagnosed as being camchain tensioner issue when it was actually a waterpump bearing that had failed

You've dropped the oil already, so fresh filter and oil, then just drive it (maybe take it easy the first few 100km) Id probably run some higher zinc oil as that will help with lubrication, wont hurt anything and should help with reducing wear/friction How clean is the motor? if the motor has some buildup you could run some higher detergent oil to help clean it out Main reason for breaking in an engine are for rings to seal and not bearings Probably do an earlier oil change just to make sure everything looks ok