Jump to content

shrike

Members
  • Posts

    444
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Beer tasting and Homebrew
    Motorbikes
    Motorsport
    Car modification
    Women :p

Converted

  • Local Area
    Outside NZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

shrike's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/5)

523

Reputation

  1. Hey anyone got any tips how to wire a 12v constant to a relay setup for the fuel pump? Ive got a relay with a 30amp fuse built in, the trigger I am running off the ecu controlled + single on the MPI setup in the fake evo (gsr) ecu grounds relay, relay sends power to fuel pump. Its 7-10v at most so ive added a dedicated relay to the fuel pump. I could run a feed direct to the battery but id like to use the MPI constant 12v to power it (mainly due to extra fuse protection and less wiring length), tried a couple of spade/fork crimps into the MPI but not comfortable with how loose they are. Don't want to cut or splice into factory wiring as I want to keep it original, thinking about a spot of hot glue to hold it in (means I can remove it late) don't want to epoxy/pot it either. Have also considered using the 12v switched power to the MPI as well. I do have a dodgy 12v connection that ive capped off I could possibly also use but would rather not Thoughts? Seriously still thinking about just rewiring the whole car :s
  2. Keen to see what you do with it, personally Ive got a soft spot for coupes but nothing wrong with a sedan Hopefully the rust isn't too bad and you can save it
  3. So MPI works as expected, only issue is the output for the fuel pump is only getting 9v when the ecu grounds it (during cranking) so the pumps not pumping I could wire up a dedicated relay for the pump that can use the 8-9v when cranking to trigger the relay for the pump so it only runs when cranking and then while running Other option is I run the trigger to switched ignition and have it running whenever the ignition is on (perhaps with an added switch) but not sure if I am keen on that Will have a think and report back Again seriously tempted to rewire the whole car lol
  4. Did any of these come out with non electric windows? Should shorten all the bolts and make any non load bearing bolts hollow :p Still got sound deadening? Lexan? :p
  5. Got a welder? just weld up the open diff :p Can you move any weight in the bay around to help get more even weight distribution over the front tyres? Open for a front splitter? for more down force (not great for take off obviously) Did you work out how to get vvti working?
  6. Ok small update, CAS wiring one wire had come loose so no fuel due to that Fuel pump still isn't getting 12v at cranking, also not getting 12v when key on to prime. Swapped out MPI with no change, have diagrams so need to do some more fault finding, may end up wiring up a new relay and using the low power thats currently being sent to the fuel pump to trigger it. Will see how I go tomorrow, a little bit frustrating as it was previously working, also need to remind myself how the MPI works as its two relays etc Might get it going tomorrow all going well but not holding my breath. On another note all my outside/garage/shed lights along with my house lights are all LED now
  7. So once I remembered that all the air will go through the engine when I try pressurize intercooler piping I actually managed to make some progress, had to block the waste-gate port off the turbo outlet pipe as well, Found a leak right near the throttle body so nipped the clamp up more (its an odd spot so not surprised) and found one other small one that ive now sorted. Went to start it and had issues, battery is now on charge as I couldn't hear the fuel pump running when I cranked it, checked power to the pump in multiple spots and it was down to 8v ran a wire from the battery direct to the pump and it primed as I was worried the pump may have died. Hopefully ill get it running tomorrow and can work out the idle/ how fucked 2nd gear is etc, assuming I can do that Ill get it an alignment after lockdown ends. Part of me is ready to rip all the wiring out and start again, anyone know where I can get new early 4G63 connectors (and the tools to terminate them?) seriously considering building a new loom. Though I may just piss it off and buy a haltech with an early 4g63 harness and then wire that in :s Ive also got another engine bay loom (headlights/fusebox/abs etc) to swap too at some point. Thinking about what steering column would be best to use for an electric steering conversion as well, kind of keen to remove the hydraulic system and just pack the current rack with grease. Also need to work out an aircon setup but that can wait till its actually on the road. Hoping once its running I can get it a RWC and then will get it on club rego
  8. Maybe its the gods of speed telling you to that you need a turbo to help with the lower rev ranges :p
  9. Yeah a thicker oil could also increase pressure Again maybe map out what spring pressure a normal setup can manage and then how much additional pressure you'll need Is there an option to run an external oil feed to the solenoid that you can use to increase pressure (restriction or an external pump?)
  10. Anyway to supercharge the VVTI solenoid and increase the pressure it sends? Ie block one of the return holes or make the hole going to the cam smaller to decrease the flow and increase the pressure? just thinking aloud so could be completely wrong. Can you increase the oil pump pressure so that the solenoid has more pressure? How much spring pressure can the current setup work with? how much would you need to increase the oil pressure to work with the stiffer springs? Hope this makes sense
  11. Some days I do consider just moving it on but would be wanting what I consider silly money for it as thats what the markets like. Car is also in Melbourne so might be a bit far away for you :p Anyway, managed to chuck the boost leak tester onto the turbo and what do you know cant even get 3psi into it as its leaking out that fast :s so when I get a chance will go round all the clamps again and then start on the old soapy water trick starting at the turbo and moving out. Also could hear bubbling so really hoping I am not pressurizing the cooling system or something. Pretty sure the gearbox may have 2nd gear problems based on my last posts but considering it probably needed to warm up and was running like a bag of di*ks it may not be that bad. I do know of a gearbox going for 1100aud in QLD that I may jump on as a spare. Hoping the leak is just a loose clamp and not a pin hole somewhere :s should probably buy a 2.5" to 3" adapter and a 2.5" bung so I can pressure test each pipe but I suspect itll be easier to just work forward from the throttle body if I have to do that. Fun times
  12. No current updates, think I started it the other-day to move it back in the car port slightly haha. Cold start is a b***h so need to have another crack at the BLISS adjustment/setting again after I get the leak tester onto the piping Haven't had much motivation for it lately, which is annoying as its really close, may have time this weekend to do some more to it. Just need to find the time to get around to it, been busy with other hobbies etc lately.
  13. Hey, might be worth having a chat with Barry at MRP around a twin/triple plate clutch thats more slip friendly, hear the triton/quartermaster setups he does are good
×
×
  • Create New...