shrike

Ahh didn't realize this was for turbo, was thinking N/A for some reason ignore me and carry on :p Keen to see updates either way, also curious what turbo your going to choose given the high RPM

Please tell me your considering DBW ITBs as well? Few RB26 options these days And hows the rb20de neo head compare to the rb25de neo head? Guessing it'll have a smaller combustion chamber so more compression then the 25 head? Assuming you'll be doing the normal crank collar/oilpump, oil drain/oil restriction mods?

Ive heard that V motors sound better with an X pipe.

Got some front drag wheels for next OS drags?

250kw per ton is a pretty happy power to weight

Sub a Ton without driver if super Awesome Weight basis is pretty good and options to tweak it

A lot of people delete the clutch distribution block and just run a new braided cable between the master and slave cylinder

Wasn't sure what thread to ask this on but @kpr the VVTI pully from the JZ family was there a reason that worked better then say the Altezza 3sge VVTI or the 1GFE VVTI pulley? Or was it more about part availability?

So did some digging and there is options to modify the Valve/Cam cover to gain some bonnet clearance as needed https://kpower.industries/products/modified-k24-valve-cover-for-na-hood Or if I want to spend crazy money https://dragcartel.com/products/k-series-billet-valve-cover-with-fuel-pump But at least there is options

Starting to think I need to organise to come over for a couple of weeks, work out of NZ and make a proper plan/acquire any missing parts

Yeah scope creep is a massive issue Not sure what will be done before I am over next so will keep having the chat Its ae115 gearbox spare so same rear diff as the celica Ive got 2 blacktop heads, a complete 7afe, could pick up some rods and forged pistons etc but could just get it running with the 7a which was the last chat I had, was thinking the K24 would be easier path and better power potential but clearly that isn't the case Can always swap to K series when I move o it over here (im looking at cheap honda gearboxes sunday)

Have you considered just using some metal bog or JB weld type fix?

Street driving in NZ may be possible depending on where it ends up modification wise and if I can get it certed etc Street driving in Australia is a no go as ill never be able to get it registered here with a cage and I'd need it stock to get it complied Rego is on hold but im pretty much consigned to it being track only I am also more keen on just competing with myself then being super competitive against other people I can always use the K24 on something else long term or onsell/hold it etc and I haven't brought too many K24 specific parts So I still have options Edit: its also incredibly hard not being there to do things or work on the car/ see progress, if I was to do this again I think getting the AE115 I got as spares id just have kept my original 4age made the car AWD and look as stock as possible for that. Enjoyed the car and then done mods as I went along, id very much like to be in a state I can enjoy the car again

Looks like my options then are (in no particular order) 7afe to get it moving and use my existing parts to get some seat time (can turbo/4a head etc as I go) Covert the Celica gearbox to Fwd and give up on AWD (off the shelf adapter kit available for E series boxes to K24) CRV gearbox plus the extra bits to use K24 2ARFE? See what options I have to go back to close to stock Part out Burn it with fire 🔥

Yeah if I went the CRV AWD route id be pinning/locking the transfer case so its full time AWD and id be running a real diff at the back thats not electronicly controlled. Though thinking about it, would there be a benefit of only having the awd kick in when needed? Still it would probably need mods it handle the power output