shrike

Surely someone has a broken C series box that can have the diff be donated to the cause and get locked :p actually wonder if any pickapart has a box I've only got E series boxes these days

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/diffs-axles/listing/2839812080

Are spare gearboxes cheap? Could always weld the diff up :p

I also replaced the steering rack bushes Have a Manual Turbo RVR loom on the way with 3 RVR ecus. The auto RVR loom I have came with the dash side plugs (with pigtails) and I have a Auto 1.8 GLXI Lancer loom that ill steal the correct dash plugs from so I can make a quick patch loom Means I can get it running on a factory ecu for rwc and rego and then put the Speeduino in after Will need to get an OBD1 (or it might be a OBD11) plug and cabling from the wreckers as I dont seem to have one Need to get the front axles/cvs back in (still need to do one cv boot and put new abs rings on) new tie rod ends, front knuckles, front brakes. Front cross member Bleed the brakes Have to get fuel lines (or I may make some) put the fuel tank back in, which may mean I need to drop the rear end out again :s im getting pretty quick at doing it though. Probably get my fab guy to do some welding next week (depending on availability) Put the steering column back in (as it was clunking when I put it in today so pulled it out again) Sort out the cooling system and intercooler piping, a front pipe for the exhaust. Also the exhaust it came with needs to go as its pretty much a straight pipe (need to buy a cat) Then front end back on hopefully Also discover the engine has no oil in it so new oil for the gearbox, Diff, Transfer case and Engine. (I'll crank it over to get oil pressure up before I start it) Might pull the stump and reseal it before I do so, head looked pretty clean. Not sure if the guy I brought it off dropped the oil or what. I suspect my mate who had it at his place may have done it and not told me

Was a real pain to get the gearbox on with the clutch on :s Top tip remove all the gearbox mounts before you start (not during) Brand new clutch fork (bet my other one turns up now)

So Cracked it and this happened Clutch slave is on need to reconnect the braided line and get a clevis so I can bleed it Starter motor is on, couldn't find one of the starter motor bolts so unsure what the bolt I used was meant to to be on but will work it out later.

Test fitted the gearbox and worked out how the clutch slave goes on Put the flywheel and clutch on Arp bolts to 95ftlb with locktite and the arp grease under the heads Clutch pressure plate bolts to 22ftlbs Aligned with an alignment tool Checked the electrics work, passenger side window doesn't go down. Rear drivers is slow. Dash works, lights work etc and no smoke. Tipping the controls need cleaning/replaced. Ac unit and clock doesn't work so will need to see if I plugged it back in. Put the last of the wiring back to factory, need to work out the starter motor signal Removed the throttle cable as I'll be using an RVR one to match the motor

Public holiday tomorrow so weather dependant planning on sorting a few more bits. Ordered a few more parts from Meek automotive as I can't find my clutch fork and that's what's stopping me from putting the gearbox and engine back together on the bay Once restrictions ease ill go raid the factory fuel lines out of a lancer wagon along with a few other bits. Current thoughts are to get it running and see what it needs for RWC before next steps. Still need to confirm all the wiring works as well Going to hold off on the inner guard, and front end repairs at this stage

Space savers to go on the rear for drag day? 3 nuts per wheel instead of 4 :p ice on the ITBs? Rear and passenger seat removed 1/4 tank of fuel remove the battery and start with a jumper pack? lower the front tyre pressure to get a better contact patch and increase traction

Used the grease trick to remove the auto Spigot Bush Collar from the back of the crank (its originally an auto motor from an RVR) will put the flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts and clutch on when I get a spare minute. You can also see the brand new spacer plate for the gearbox/starter motor installed Painted some bits Also pressed in new lower ball joints, found some extended ball joints from Fatboy racing that correct lowered steering geometry so will get a set of them at some point. Need to do another coat of paint on them as well (some came off when pressing in the ball joints) Not sure if ill get much more done this weekend but at least a little progress Also most of my parts arrived from Amyama if I hadn't already mentioned Waiting for lockdown restrictions to ease (mainly the 5km rule) so I can go to the wreckers, need to get a clutch master cylinder pin and clevis so I can attach it to my clutch pedal along with some other bits I am missing Fuel lines, emissions gear (maybe) bolt for the fuel tank, bonnet bolts, foot rest Also going to get the fab guy who repaired my subframe to come round and weld up the boot some more rather then bogging it, also going to get him to do the front end repairs, repair the broken bolt hold on my gear box and also reweld the output sleeve on my spare gearbox front cover (I only have one gearbox) Also need to order some hub centric rings (73.1mm to 67.1mm) Considering some more factory wheels too but will see if I can get through a roadworthy without Hesitant to put the motor back in until after I get fuel lines sorted

Few small updates, put the rear end back in last weekend Set the alignment as neutral as I could based on my limited skill Replaced the rear CV boots Outers are Kelpro CIB-230 Inners are CIB-516 (CIB-519 are for later models) Also replaced the front inner boot, need another cv boot to suit the outer tripod that attaches to the hangar shaft Also gave the rear wheels a spin and suspect its got an LSD, need to pull the diff plate off (need to do all oils anyway) to confirm but considering the other bits it has and the fact its been dragged previously I wouldn't be surprised

Nitrous would get this down the line alitrle faster if you have access? Also with the G4x could you get some larger injectors for cheap (wrecker maybe) and run e85 with lots of timing? From memory 2AZ injectors from a rav or camry are larger 330cc for 2AZ 200 or 220cc for the NZ engines Id also take the rear muffler off

Well that's annoying, my fault for not checking as well rear 1.8L abs mirage rotors are only 235mm not 260mm so they are not going to work, so that's annoying, could have brought the correct rotors local for the same price I paid with shipping :S Lesson learned

As per above post you are correct, have now ordered another set locally for 132aud that are 100% the correct item Was worth the punt though and if I do go down the 5stud path (with factory sized brakes) it will be just a new front bearing and a 5x114.3 driveflange/hub into the factory knuckle

So the front rotors I ordered dont fit, seems one hole doesn't line up, trying to decide if I just drill a hole, however the other holes are slightly larger then the studs Im wondering if they are multi 5 (5x100 as well) or 4x100 Out 125aud including shipping but will make for an easy 5stud swap later