shrike

Guessing it was oil rated hose? ive seen hose swell before due to not being used with the right liquids etc

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

So B16/18 VTEC head/intake swap on the cards? (with ECU to suit)

Same as the CRV drivetrain?

But did you let the fridge settle before you turned it on? and waiting on rear diff pics to conform AWDness

So, your options are to lose weight or add more power right ?? :p

I would highly recommend not getting it shipped unless its in a freezer truck :s

Yeah they don't like getting too damp, have had a few rhizomes rot away, also you may need alittle more space then that as they tend to spread out but see how you go I have 3 with shoots atm, and 10 that haven't done anything yet. Not a very good gardener myself however and my dog likes to sleep on them :s

Love it, great to see the kids getting involved. Did you let them taste the wort at both post mash and post boil? Great process and looks like a pretty straight forward brew day A cheaper option for yeast nutrient is to just buy bulk bread yeast and throw that in the boil, also i've found that whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil tends to help with removing cold break. Guessing the clarity ferm was to help prevent chill haze? have you tried a batch without? also if your adding fruit then you probably don't need to worry about chill haze The brush is a great idea for the labels I normally just dip mine lol Keen to see it turned out well

Can you run a deadhead system for the fueling? and have the regulator at the back? (obviously it wouldn't be vacuum referenced unless you run a vac line) Guessing one rail has a feed? can you use the output of that rail as a return?

Personally wouldn't bother with a BOV to start with, wastegate wise if you get one with an internal gate it would probably be fine (4-5psi and adjust up as required via a controller), otherwise the chinese wastegates are fine if you pull them apart and then reassemble them (checking for quality issues) depending on budget of course, otherwise most brand name stuff would be fine (turbosmart, Tial, GFB etc) I am not super up on carb turbo setups, but assuming anything low pressure high flow would work well from an electric pump perspective and anything to maintain the pressure your carb needs from a regulation perspective For a 4L and low boost I would say the bigger the wastegate the better, however the Barra turbos do ok with the internal gate at low boost, so maybe something GT35 size, you will probably need a collection of jets etc to dial in the carb Are you going to intercool it?

Got to mark these out and cut then to shape and then bend some small tabs into them Should be easier as its a smaller area Can always buy a press brake later and redo these Metal cost me $88

Picked up some metal this morning, not 100% sure on what it is, it's not magnetic but doesn't feel soft enough to be alluminum, so could be stainless? Top peice for the rad is 3mm, the bumper support part is 1.5mm, setup a dodgy stainless angle clamped to my bench and used a hammer to bend it. Not the most effective way to do it, but it's worked (should have gotten the place I brought it from use the press brake) but I wasn't 100% on angles and measurements when I picked it up Not quite flat in the bumper but should have enough surface to either use sikaflex on it or get some bolts in

And the other side They will fold over at the top and the bottom Should help seal the rad and inter-cooler so that air is more directed but see how we go Also need to look at getting a smaller battery and also options to put a helicoil in the back passenger side bonnet hinge holes (may see a panel beater about getting that done)

Shrouding for the rad

Close ups

So Alloy place came back at $100 for the 3 peices, have added a 4th so just confirming new pricing and pickup/payment details With the cardboard mock-ups mock-ups the cooling panel I brought Cardboard is 5-6mm so will fit better should be hidden when I get the mesh installed Going to add the 4th peice and either bolt or sika flex it to the bumper as another mounting point behind the number plate area

So no one has come back to me about laser or water-jet cutting me the pieces I wanted, guessing I am just too small a job. So have reached out to a place that does Aluminum sheet if they can cut me the pieces to the total overall size I want and ill break out the grinder/dremel/jigsaw/drill etc to remove the excess material 75mmx680mmx3mm 150mmx435mmx3mm 150mmx455mmx3mm Will do the old score with a knife on each side and then bend the ends up trick to get the tabs I want as well once I cut it down to shape 3mm thick should do the job I think and will save some weight on Stainless/Mild steel Top part I can probably get away with using a 25mm hole-saw for the rad mount hole and a 50mm one to allow for the radiator cap instead of cutting out a square, end angle will be easy with my cut off saw. Attaching the factory radiator top mounts/brackets may need some thinking or I may have to take it to someone to weld some posts onto

And done up in solid works, added some extensions/tabs that I can bend up and down on the rad shrouding so that I can bolt it to the lower rad support using holes already there will have to weld on a couple of 10mm locating pins to use the factory radiator brackets but should work ok. Thinking 3mm should do the job for the sides but unsure on what to use for the top as yet, may go a little thicker. Wishing I had a 3d printer right now as I would do some test prints first, still need to find a place that will cut it out for me as well

So did some CAD work today (cardboard aided design) mocked up a new rad mount option and some shrouding for the half rad Need to work out what cad software to use so I can draw it up before I can get it cut out of 3mm steel? May have a play at adding some other ways of mounting the bumper better as well but see how I go Edit: added some pics of my cardboard mock-ups Will make more sense on the car

Compression tester turned up yesterday, and I cleaned the sparkplugs last week Decided to do a dry compression test today and see how the old girl went, I have no idea how many kms are on this motor Had the pipe to the throttle body from the turbo off for the compression test and spark plugs out, cranked it over for 10 compression strokes, probably didn't need too but wanted to see how it went. Compression test Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 All pretty much at 150psi, pretty happy with the fact its pretty much the same reading across the board. I believe 178psi is factory fresh and 133psi is rebuild territory so middle of the range is ok with me for an unknown motor. Should keep me going until I build another motor Got it started again, I suspect it doesn't like to start when its cold. Need to get the cold start/idle sorted properly and check the timing again as well, may do that tomorrow as ill move it up the front driveway so I have more ventilation. Still getting some smoke out the exhaust, but suspect its due to sitting so long/shit in the exhaust/ idle/timing could be running abit rich as well. Makes the right sounds when I give it a small rev so at least its getting in the right direction Managed to buy a brand new rear bumper as well so that's something else to switch over long term

So few small updates Wired up a dedicated relay for the fuel pump, added a spade connector into the 12v Constant for the factory MPI setup to power it and then used the factory fuel pump power feed to trigger it. Works fine and the pump now primes when it should etc again. Part of me is wondering why the pump suddenly stopped working properly, considering it was previously running and driving (not well but that was due to other issues) Can't get the dam thing to start atm, I have fuel, I have spark, have pulled the plugs and have cleaned them up to see if that makes any difference. Ordered a new compression tester as I can't find mine/the one I had was very questionable, will check compression to rule that out. Could be timing, I even went back to the old cas wiring to rule that out as being an issue, have ordered a new crimping tool as my current one isn't suited to the new Cas plug connector I have so will re terminate that. Could also be a dodgy cas, but if I have fuel and spark I doubt it. In saying that it wants to go and it is bloody cold atm so perhaps the cold start is the issue. Still looking at options Also trying to remember if I've had it running with the ecu thats in it atm, perhaps I should try hooking the 2G cam and crank sensor back up and see if that works Part of me wants to Buy an OBD1 capable OBDII scan tool and the adapter to see what its doing Investigate the ecu (RVR) and see if that's shit itself Plug in my Speedunio and see what it can pick up (need to add the module so it can run the IACV) Make a new factory style loom for it so if I do go to a Haltech 1500 long term and know the wiring is good Buy a new factory loom (Amayama may have them) but its like 1500AUD so feel that I could put that money into an aftermarket option Just buy a Haltech and see if I can get it to work with my questionable current loom Buy a Haltech 1500 with its own 4g63 specific harness and get rid of the factory loom If I go down the Haltech pathway I want to also Install 1000cc injectors for an E85 Tune Move to R35, Hitachi IGC0002 or K20/K24 coilpacks Change to the DBW throttle body and pedal I got from a 4G69 Outlander so I can piss off the Bliss etc Frustrating as I had it running, also wondering if its had some stop leak or excess RTV/Silcone come loose as I have found some residue on the spark plugs

Hey anyone got any tips how to wire a 12v constant to a relay setup for the fuel pump? Ive got a relay with a 30amp fuse built in, the trigger I am running off the ecu controlled + single on the MPI setup in the fake evo (gsr) ecu grounds relay, relay sends power to fuel pump. Its 7-10v at most so ive added a dedicated relay to the fuel pump. I could run a feed direct to the battery but id like to use the MPI constant 12v to power it (mainly due to extra fuse protection and less wiring length), tried a couple of spade/fork crimps into the MPI but not comfortable with how loose they are. Don't want to cut or splice into factory wiring as I want to keep it original, thinking about a spot of hot glue to hold it in (means I can remove it late) don't want to epoxy/pot it either. Have also considered using the 12v switched power to the MPI as well. I do have a dodgy 12v connection that ive capped off I could possibly also use but would rather not Thoughts? Seriously still thinking about just rewiring the whole car :s

Keen to see what you do with it, personally Ive got a soft spot for coupes but nothing wrong with a sedan Hopefully the rust isn't too bad and you can save it

Is one of them the DR SUMURTOS golden ale?