shrike

I think the joint diagnosis is that that piston may have had existing issues, its all subjective however if you hadn't had the head off to confirm the pistons looked good then I would lean that way. Cooling blockage would have been more if you knew the engine was good/head had been off and pistons looked good previously etc, as if that cylinder wasn't cooling as well it could lead to issues (would expect the knock sensor to pick up any detonation however) I wouldn't bother with EGT sensors for the new setup as I think you have diagnosed the issue now and I doubt it will repeat with new pistons etc Sucks but at least with the new build you'll know what will be in it, any plans to balance the rotating assembly?

I'd get the forged pistons ceramic coated to help prevent hotspots Looks like it's gradually happened right, so could have been an existing issue and already had a small deformation causing a hotspot that's slowly gotten worse. Could look at adding egt sensors per cylinder as I'm tipping your overall AFR is fine? You've ruled out injection and ignition, timing was correct. How's the cooling around that cylinder looking, nothing blocked? Do you know the history of the motor, had you had the head of previously?

According to Wikipedia the 1NZ-FXE and 1NZ-FXP also have forged Rods Along with the 13:1 compression but guessing they are the older motors your speaking of

Just get some straight and do pie cuts :p for the bends etc

Fair enough was just thinking it might be an option if you need to save the head long term.

Can you weld up the hole?

@chris rare we taking bets on KWATW? Factory is meant to be what 112kw at the fly? So maybe 90-100kw atw stock? Did you have a factory dyno number? I'm guessing with the exhaust, better head, compression bump and a good tune (what fuel are you going to run?) Assuming you can run optimum timing for power (without knock) You might gain what 10-20kw atw?

So does it just get run open from the back of this or is Roman going to need to tie it into a resonator/muffler/ further exhaust? @Roman are you going to run this daily or only for the drags/track, do you need a cat for Wof purposes? Wondering how loud its going to be lol

Ok nice sure you'll get a few more gains when its tuned/run in etc Nice so a small bump up from the factory compression (Factory seems to be from 8.8 - 9.8 from what I could find) Is the manual gearing higher or lower then the auto (ie is it revving higher or lower at say 50/100km) Fingers crossed they don't notice the conversion, assuming it looks stock enough yeah? Any plans for some boost later on or just drive it as is?

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again? Assuming wof wont be an issue?

Wonder if there is any off the shelf option from another motor Or anything fun on aliexpress Was it ca18 pistons in a 4k or something like that, maybe it was Honda ones I can't remember "Rzcrew Garage - Forged Pistons 76.5mm - 8:5 to 15:0 Compression Ratio - Toyota - 1NZ-FE - RZ-FP-1NZ-FE - 8:5.1-75 - RZCrewEurope – RzcrewEurope" https://www.rzcreweurope.com/products/rzcrew-garage-forged-pistons-76-5mm-8-5-to-15-0-compression-ratio-toyota-1nz-fe-rz-fp-1nz-fe-8-5-1-75?variant=18299895775343 15:1 605euro :p

@Romanmaybe you could look into forging your own pistons like Burt Munro? "They were hand-cast using sand from local beaches in a variety of receptacles, including tin cans. They were then painstakingly finished with file and lathe,” Pretty sure you could improve on that with some 3dprints etc for molds Break up some broken pistons to melt down etc

All the side feed injectors I've seen have been a pretty standard size dimensionally. I'd be looking at subaru side feeds probably 550cc ones would be heaps for what your doing. 4age silver and black top injectors are also sidefeed (310cc) Sr20 injectors are another option (370cc for the turbo ones I think) these are shorter then 1jz sidefeeds.

The big Ford Territory SUV with the Non turbo Barra do like 10.2L per 100km for the 2016 model

Lots of compression and remove weight?

Curious on the choice behind 8.5:1 Compression ratio for the build but keen to see results My AE111 Levin project has the 370Z rear brake setup with the Akabono rear calipers (GT4 rear hubs, toyota highlander bearings/driveflange (5x114.3) a hub ring to center the rotor on the drive flange and then an adapter for the brake) went this way as the internal handbrake on the GT4 and 370Z was similar/same size (cant remember if I worked out it could just factory GT4 shoes or if I needed to add some more lining) Pretty sure I brought the bits before I knew that rock auto was the go but I didn't think $330 was bad for rear calipers back then (2019) https://www.jegs.com/i/Power-Stop/419/S6182/10002/-1?trk_msg=J0VUDM8LCMF4B3PL9EC2QDMGQO&trk_contact=PHST57KEHEJ4JHTH6OUCNU8TO8&trk_module=tra&trk_sid=63E1DGRI1NVOMSC6D65SIEB518&trk_link=1E1GAD39M374BBES33HDTMRMI8&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Product&utm_campaign=Transactional&utm_content=Order+Confirmation Or are you looking at the 370z brembo option?

Weld the hole up?

So are you going to make a claim via the Contract and Commercial Law Act 2017? Sounds like the guy is just scum and took advantage of the current car market, highly doubt anyone in the UK would have paid what he was saying he could get etc if they would surely he would have already jumped on it

Coolent temp sensor, ecu retarding timing until it comes up to operating temp, can always test the sensor and or just unplug to verify If the temp is no good it wont know its warmed up

Hope you are going to investigate putting a sump/bash plate on?

Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location? My first thought is low profile efi conversion, but I know you wanted to stay carbed. Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine? Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up? Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more?

Should post a video of what it's doing in the base tune that @Studid for you. Did it still have issues once you fixed the timing/sensors? When I had my r32 I once plugged the injector loom in backwards so it coughed and spluttered but didn't fire.

So looks like they don't clear the evo front brakes. Seems evos had 15" minimum size so I'll either need to get some 15 or 16 inch rims or put lancer brakes up front for a rwc. Or just see if I can pass it with the 17x8 wheels