Muncie

Christmas, coregas got progressively more shit the longer I was using them my co2 went out of test waiting to swap then they wouldn't take it. You buying a bottle or just need a fill? I did both. Test and fill on my coregas co2 and bought an Argon bottle.... close to $1000 he gave me the welding consumables I piled on counter free as well. GC!

Tried Gaspro in Hamilton? They fill bottles from anyone Coregas sent me there after I said they sucked with their 4 week wait bullshit..... same day even with a bottle test and cheap.

Relevant but probably useless, I worked with a guy who had a rather mad honda jazz running a combo of bits that included a honda motorcycle gearset (allegedly) for the above reasons. Seeing as your doing bike revs dig into that knowledge stream online might be useful info there you could adapt. Or fit a DCT box or something...... all the cool kids are apparently. http://speed.academy/dct-conversion-honda-s2000/

Need some dry break connectors and plugs for the loom so he can do rapid roadside engine swaps. Might need a pog style crane bolted to the roof to aid engine ejection.......

That weld is all good for exhaust stuff, I've paid big money for far worse. Maybe jam that strain gauge I gave you on the block so you know when its going to explode again.

This feels like progress engine is on a stand heads are just sitting on dowels intake is just keeping dust out. Spent 90 minutes trying to get sump plug out some cunt had ugga dugga'd it in no tool I own could shift it so welded a bolt to it and beat it loose with a hammer. I want the sump off so I can weld a -8 drain fitting in for the turbo on to it. Will hollow engine out as a dummy block for building manifolds Using car for measuring clearances to other things.

Engine stand purchased last night, going to gut the L67 3.8v6 its lower k's than current engine will try find some second hand forged pistons and fit to the L67 rods and budget build a stronger engine. If no pistons can be found I'll just run stock ecotec stuff. Goin to build manifolds etc on gutted engine for ease then transfer it into car after i do bearings or find a healthy bottom end. Fuck it, it's worth a try ecotecs aren't exactly worth much. Making the stock ecu run it might be a challenge but im not springing for a stand alone ecu yet. My Uncle built this buick weapon a few years back 4.2 stroker with twin throttle body's. Made 300+ horsepower broke expensive gearboxes so he'll be a good collaboration on how to ruin a $600 car.

I'm anticipating some learning curves setting up the ecu that might take some time to figure out, having the option to pop the turbo off jam the stock ecu in and driving it while I try figure stuff out on the bench would be why I'm considering it. Fabricating a bypass pipe easy learning to configure all this new electronic shit not so much. Having a dead car while I figure stuff out is a recipe for another unfinished project with me. Keeping it wof and reg till the kinks are sorted then certed will help me not give up. *edit realise the above does sound like I'm been a shifty prick avoiding cert, I'm honestly just trying to avoid wasting others time arriving for cert with a car that has all the parts but doesn't function well.

If I were to arrive with a car that clearly can be fitted with turbo easily, as in manifolds oil feeds and drains fitted wastegate and intercooler fitted. If I were to just remove the turbo and bypass manifold straight into the dump pipe would it pass wof? Providing everything else is up to snuff. I know I could be green stickered still if I were to refit. I want to build the turbo setup and still be able to drive car should I hit complications or not be able to source parts. Cert will be Done once im sure im not wasting time. I just hate things sitting immobile because I'm waiting on parts turbos all vband and AN Fittings so it's a 10 minute task to remove it.

Decided to do its fortnightly start and zip around the block, found if I stab the gas it pushes the crank forward and stalls instantly now FFS. however the engine sounds healthy as no rattles zero blowby it doesn't use a drop of oil.. Realistically a set of bearings and would likely be healthy again. Do I just pull engine slap new stock bearings in fresh head gaskets and turbo it ? Regardless I'll get the new fuel system in get it a wof then I can use it again find some love for it and motivation again. K24 might be down track but at least this option would get it going strong fairly easily

Stainless pot scrubbers from $2 shop work as does Stainless swarf if your a tin ass most Stainless places will give you it for free. Keen to see a full car length 3" muffler exiting mini style through middle of back bumper. I used ceramic fibre mat as an acoustic damper on the Electron spacecraft kaowool would work, be nicer to work with.

Woolf mufflers in Auckland sell or at least used to sell perforated tube and fibre/stainless matting so you could build your own mufflers. I've got a nice 3" in twin 2" out straight through muffler off a R35 gtr you can have if you want? Would Make a nice back muffler.

2022 Suzuki Hayabusa Specifications MSRP: $18,599 Compression ratio: 12.5:1 Horsepower (claimed): 187 hp at 9,750 rpm Torque (claimed): 110 lb-ft at 7,000 rpm Reckon you can get close to these numbers?

Brian crower has some rods and other bits on clearance on the website for around $250us was looking for buick stuff. Have a gander

Over the red line on tach so 6500rpm maybe a little more. One thing that just popped into my head is the car has massive wheels with sticky tyres if I built a small angry engine I'd probably snap cranks if it wasn't auto.