Muncie

Alright chaps I'm going to upgrade this year I want to sell everything I have now and go to a new multi process welder. Eg mig tig arc all in one. Are they a bit of a does a everything but nothing well situation or heavy but mint deal? Ideally I want ac/dc so I can tig alloy I'm not an expert but can competently weld anything with good tools and a bit of practice. Want to raise my options and get some quality work done and my old stuff has done well but I'm sick of 2 heavy ass machines. Any ideas on who might sell a decent machine?

Clear your Saturday print off your ground locations and spend the day going through the car did this on my mk4 vw golf miracles were had extra features unlocked with this one painful but rewarding task. Seriously get some sand paper and jointing compound and just go through it you'll at least be able to tick off bad earths as a fault.

Took this out today and ran 3 tanks of gas through it nothing broke no one fell off...... well I ran my own leg over trying to crash start it but that doesn't count. Have made some short headers for it they're gross but work no more exhaust into your crotch. Then my daughter jumped on it and proceeds to show my son and I how to 4th gear power slide it up the road (put to shame) it bloody rips! Sounds good but looking at some harley pipes for it as they're surprisingly cheap and should fit nicely out of way. Going to get some kart rear wheels asap these vibrate like a bastard once you get cooking and it turns them pretty effortlessly too.

My daughter finally got a ride on this too shes been waiting 4 years for her own engine thing. She's pretty happy but clutch was to much for her so she had to bang shift it and just stall it to stop. Normally a chatterbox I asked how it was to ride her answer. It's angry I love it. Mission accomplished now to fine tuning to make it user friendly to start and ride. It corners like a motherfucker though and gets tail happy with a bit of a clutch pop!

If anyone wants to swap a AC/DC TIG for my 170A Mig pm me. Currently inundated with MIG welders at home and I want to do alloy and some stainless.

I used to arc weld ports onto factory cast manifolds for RFB owners using stainless rods plenty of heat in manifold and throw it in hot oven to cool slowly, never had one fall off or leak.

just looking at those as my new brakes arrived with a left hand hydraulic cylinder so will swap that over to a right hand cylinder and use existing to run clutch. Can ditch the big old cable too. This thing is so nice to biff on trailer too light enough I can load with one arm can see me getting some use out of it. Maybe some time on beach over summer.

I splashed out last week on hydraulic brakes and a really nice shift lever for this. Had squirted it around block a few times up till now. Took it to a nice grass area today where kids could get used to it my son of course after a 5 minutes decided a 2nd gear clutch dump would be fun and ripped the back axle out of it.... Headed home bit of grinding and bit of bracing it was alive again no harm done, took straight back to park again where it ran faultless for about an hour till we ran out of petrol. Quick vid of my son cruising back to trailer. Needs a full exhaust but it's mint!

Also the rear cylinder head prevents you going over the handlebars. Very much work in progress at moment finding out what works and what needs changing/moving. Exhaust will get tucked away wrapped and shielded just got sick of staring at it in corner of garage not going.

Test ride complete shes a ripper! First gear is really tall so was all I needed to squirt around Backyard however the rear wheels aren't what I intend to run so gearing should be bang on once I find some 7" wide go kart rears. Clutch did improve a bit and it's running really crisp now guessing valve seats have sealed up, probably a little bit of rust on them as this engine sat for ages and has never been run. Rear axle pivot location is shit and interferes with chain and is too light for proper punishment, for now have just locked the rear suspension out will redo later will just enjoy it going for now.

Runs on its own now currently a crash start with a capacitor to keep everything going cobbled together an exhaust for front cylinder. This thing is so much louder than anything else I've built its going to need a full system and a decent muffler. Still I might jam on trailer tonight and go somewhere uninhabited for a squirt, clutch is on and works though its ridiculously heavy so for anyone other than myself it'll need a foot clutch. Will see if it frees up with use. Stuck airfilter on and its 100mm above handlebars....nuts looking but at least it keeps petrol out of your eyes.

Took for fucking ever to decipher the wiring diagram to get this running again after gutting the loom, china must have run out the correct colour's when they made the loom so I was off to an ass kicking before I started. Anyway 2 hours of combining wires in different combinations I electrocuted myself and was stoked as that meant I had spark. Engine is welded in chains on so shortly after the vid I parked it against the garage wall and smacked it 1st 2nd 3rd to run it in, plenty of poke! Needs a clutch lever a gear stick and a whole lot of fettling but its a runner.

My current engine build will be using an intercooler plate adapter under the supercharger of my l67 v6 for my commodore, problem is they are over a grand for just what you see below and I reckon there could be a better solution out there in nz. What do you think? Could you fabricate or print something out of plastic that would work for less than the mace engineering plate?

Got chain on clutch working throttle ready to go so ripped into the wiring got everything squared away enough for a test fire...... no spark. The ignitor isn't showing a single sign of life no current draw at all. I did find a diode tucked into the wiring loom up near where hand controls wire in which doesn't appear in the wiring diagram I got with engine, but does on another one i was given (via oldschool.co.nz) Any ideas anyone? I may just try a generic single cylinder DC module as this just fires both coils at same time so should work.

Save your money and just run a Holden v6 power steer pump for the noise and nice new good quality stock belts.

Hey man, re: your crackly speakers If they have been in storage for a bit they probably have a little grit or dust in them. Have revived speakers before by wiring them up to a small stereo just to get them making some sound and flip them over cone facing down on the work bench and leave them for the day. Crunchy bits fall out and your good to go. Better living every one......

Hey mate the way I read that is- That charger needs the batteries separated for it to work eg: you could put an isolation switch in your link between your 2x 12v batteries then yes it'll charge them independently, but you would then need to disconnect your charger when you go back to 24v re-closing your link. It will try to balance both batteries to the same voltage but depending on your batteries internal resistance they will need different charging rates to achieve this, Eg one might charge at 3amps the other at 4 for 6 hours to reach 14volts or fully charged. *My explanation may be way off btw* more technical people can confirm or deny this.

Cheers man its good to know where things have come from. I wouldn't have known as I'm not quite looking in huge detail yet.

Found this site, it's a little clunky but pricing seems good. Look familiar to everyone? https://www.kiwiconnectors.com/kiwi-motorsport-electronics-sensors/atm-connectors

Engine lined up with rear sprocket and mounts welded in today started to pop and fizz a bit on last weld underneath. So thats it I'm out of welding gas but the rest is bolt in stuff. Just need chain, sprocket and the wiring done then can think about a open pipe ride around block. Proportions are pretty epic! This was a 125cc quad so its basically got a second engine stuffed in to it.

Took more out of wiring this is now the bare minimum it needs to run charge a battery and do what a quad does. Engine now has a functioning clutch cable to. Damn!

Surge of enthusiasm this arvo thinned out the wiring to engine only. Recon i can take more out theres no stand interlocks or anything so can unpin that stuff as well. Figured out how to mount engine solidly now ive got chain and sprocket sorted i can align engine and zap it in.

Found a random 22 tooth sprocket in 520 pitch that will bolt straight on from Moto1 been looking for ages and bugger me the chain was on special too! Couldnt believe my luck. Might unravel wiring loom today and pull out all the lights and gauge wiring it wont need.

It would be a bit weak in a bike but should be pretty fun in this and it looks sweet! engine mounts are made i just need box section to finish it up where the rear mount will go. Ive got some mikunis off a kawasaki that would be perfect if its too asthmatic. This is for my daughter shes 14 and just recently got her head around riding a dirtbike.