sheepers

fucking great work man. those couple of blemishes will come out no worries! cant wait to see it hooning about.

itll take a good 20 minutes if it is trapped air, some cars take weeks of hot/cold with a fully functioning recovery style overflow system to get all the air out. some wont self bleed at all. fuck knows if its a common problem with dorito motors

LN106 calipers. you probably know this already but they take the same pads as R32 GTR so you can get some pretty good pads to fit those calipers. the bendix "OEM replacements" pads are beyond fucking shit so dont use them.

from what i can see in that video it looked a bit like the normal thing you'd see as the car warms up and there are still air bubbles in the system. jack the front up as high as you can and stick a funnel or something that you can make seal in the filler neck into the radiator. chuck your doohickey half full of water and let it run for a while. it might be air bubbles trapped in to somewhere, well thats what it looks like anyway.

i drive this to work every day and its the only car i have access to at the moment. no issues to report other than an idle issue that needs some tweaking in the program to sort out and it nearly went up in flames. 2017-05-10_06-31-41 by sheepers, on Flickr stock toyota headlight wiring. toyota have a relay for the power feeds to the headlights from factory. BUT they switch the negative for high and low beam so the full current still goes through the switch. i would recommend fitting a relay to switch the negative if you're still running stock toyota wiring. the factory wiring will let you down eventually and it ain't pretty when it happens.

3.6 works well with the R154, i would guess you'd want to go a bit lower if your going to run small tyres and a W57. keep in mind that the UZ is not a pushrod shithouse V8. they love to rev and sitting at 2800ish is no drama for them. in my limited experience with the underside of britcrap trumphs id say you will be biting off a VERY large chunk of work to get a nissan subframe to work.

no, it was 4.1 a per stock GTR but i changed it to 3.6.

depends when your truck was first registered in NZ. I think pre 92 you don't need one but someone will know the exact year.

fuck i love 60 series cruisers. much prefer the low roof but they're all good. I wished I'd never sold mine but needs must. i don't like your chances of finding front doors that aren't fucked, it's like they had rust fromthe factory.

super fucking great news man!!! well done, just in time to buy that AC 124 too.

and also i forgot about this. here is some footage of the drag day that was shown on TV. we're the first feature in the program. i talk and look stupid. which is pretty much standard for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt5wLpzjCJQ

one of the reasons i put 17s on it was so i could run bigger brakes. i had to make some brackets (well, Neil at Whiters made them for me because he's a super GC) to get them to fit and it all went together perfectly. they are a Yellow Speed kit designed for a V spec R33 GTR - 330 dia x 32 thick with a 6 piston caliper. they arent bedded in properly yet but sweet baby jebus do they stop you in a hurry. i used a G meter to calibrate the difference between before and after and the calculations came out at 2 billion percent better. pictures of things. 2017-02-25_05-17-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-53 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-41 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-28 by sheepers, on Flickr

the brake pedal travel would be dictated by the master cylinder rather than the booster wouldn't it?

yea this aint no show car. its sole purpose in life is to go really fast round corners and make me smile. and the last time i drove it in anger was the best smiles this car has ever generated.

its alway function over form with this car. and man does it function with the wider rubber on it.