sheepers

just waiting for the tow truck is it?

fuck nearly a month with fuck all progress. what a slack cunt. been overseas for work and shit, working on other cars and this took a back seat. anywho i finally got primer on the last bit. ill give it a long board with 120 over the nest few days and hopefully have a final coat of primer on it by the end of the weekend. 2018-07-18_07-54-18 by sheepers, on Flickr

richard has really gone to town with this car since owning it. hes put big brakes o the front, full T3 adjustable 4 link and panhard in the back, full T3 LCAs, castor arms and a new sway bar. but most importantly is this. 2018-07-14_02-58-07 by sheepers, on Flickr fully built beams with all the fruit. 6 speed gearbox and all the other go fast bits. ive been helping him do the swap so its got power rack and pinion steering now as well. we just got the engine mounts all trimmed and fitting perfectly today. monday night im going to tack them in place then well whip the crossmember out and ill weld it up properly. the gearbox crossmember will be a modified RA23 one (if i can find it) 2018-07-14_01-43-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-07-14_01-43-46 by sheepers, on Flickr

keen. ill pm you

sweet as man. key me know

I potentially could use it if your willing to part with the hub as well?

holey fuck im laughing so hard. the fucking tape measure is amazing!

did a bit more on this. its pretty much ready to go and i was taking the radiator hoses off to replace them and the sludge that came out of the bottom hose didnt fill me with joy so i decided to pull the radiator out and get it reconditioned. while the radiator is out ill replace the oil cooler hoses and the trans cooler hoses as well. its a million times easier to get to all that shit with the radiator out of the way.. AND im still after a fan that fits the hub i have for the water pump if anyone has one. like this but with a 136PCD for the 4 bolt holes 2018-06-19_02-45-47 by sheepers, on Flickr

before you spend too much time and effort on that front suspension id check what parts you can get for it. last time i looked 50 series ball joints, tie rods, idler arms and basically everything that needs replacing is NLA. 60-110 is all the same and still available. 60 series arms etc bolt on, the only issue is the drag link is wider. im running a 60 series drag link in my 51 and its fine. the bump steer only kicks in at the extreme ends of the up and down travel.

and put it back together i did. the back dowel hole in the head was a bit flogged so i made a stepped dowel by turning down the shank of a drill bit and using that. it worked mint. fancy new water pump and later model water pump housing with the pipe going around the back of the block rather than around the front of the rocker cover. 2018-06-23_11-18-58 by sheepers, on Flickr head on and torqued. 2018-06-23_11-19-08 by sheepers, on Flickr i sprayed both sides of the gasket with this shit, a product called "hope in a can" 2018-06-23_11-18-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-23_11-19-16 by sheepers, on Flickr fucked around with the cam gear to get the cam timing as best i could. with the 1mm skimmed off the head and the chain being old and fucked i had to piss about with it a bit. luckily Toyota are fucking good cunts and they put extra holes in the cam gear to account for chain stretch so i found one of the holes got the timing perfect so im pretty happy with that. 2018-06-23_01-46-48 by sheepers, on Flickr so yea its starting to come together. theres a few little things that need sorting out before i can start it but if the stars align itll go tomorrow. ill need to re-torque the head after its been hot a couple of times and at that point ill paint the rocker cover a nice shiny red. 2018-06-23_02-22-35 by sheepers, on Flickr

well after two months GER finished the head. the one that came off the car was cracked between the two valves in every cylinder, as well as being soft, bent and fucked. so we used the one off the parts car. heres a list of the things that had to be done, head stripped completely and re-hardened head straightend and planed new valve seats and guides new valves new stem seals all the casting plugs leaked so that all had to be re-machined and frost plugged the head bent laterally so the two middle cam journals has to be welded and line bored inlet and exhaust faces re-machined rocker gear disassembled, rocker shafts polished and cleaned, rockers re-bushed and reassembled it cost heaps and its a fucking joke that anyone would be fucking stupid enough to fix a 4M head but i did. also i got a correct gasket out of straya, it was the last one to be found and GER had to do some digging to find it. yea. so ill put it back together at some point. 2018-06-18_05-38-35 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-18_05-38-01 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-18_05-37-35 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-18_05-37-22 by sheepers, on Flickr

i rough sand bog with 80 then finish with 120. prepping the existing surface i use 120. first coat of primer will be 120 or 220 depending on how close to finished (shape wise) i think it is. wet sanding will be 400 with the DA to knock the skin off (i do a quick pass with the DA on every coat of primer to take the skin off because the skin likes to clog the paper and the DA seems to avoid this somehow) then wet 600 or 800 the whole thing. i wet sand it because you can see the shape heaps better and ive tried dry sanding a final prep before and i didnt like it, i couldnt see the shape and i made mistakes. when i think a panel is close to finished i wipe the whole thing down then wipe it over with prepsol. it gives the panel a gloss finish and you can see any ripples or imperfections in the light. also ive found that dry the paper loads with dust and can cause scratches. also i get more life out of the sandpaper when its wet. i use 50mm wide masking tape to tape sheets of wet and dry together so that i can make a sheet long enough for my long board. i wet sand with the long board because it gets the panels straighter. the masking tape lasts longer than a sheet of sand paper before the water gets to it so thats no drama. its a LONG process but it looks great when the colour goes on. oh, and i use epotec 408 hi build primer. i really rate it. sure durepox dosent have a cloggy skin but its literally 5 times the price of epotec. i use the epotec 2k clear in places that dont matter (inside boot etc) but if i want a really deep clear then i use chromaclear which is about 6 zillion dollars a litre.

you man just the wet sanding? i dunno? fucking ages it what it feels like. maybe 40 -60 hours?

not that long ago every paint jobs final prep was done wet. the epoxy primer won't take on any water. 1k primers will wet but most of them are ok. bog will soak water of course but you really shouldn't be wet sanding bog ands I don't think I'm going overboard with a car in going to sell. I probably am aren't I?

put some more paint on it. this should be the last primer i need to put on this part. it gets wet sanded from here ready for colour. theres plenty of paint on it this time and its pretty straight so it should come up good with some wet long board action. next is to turn it around and do the other side which is only t he two doors and the front guard because everything else is done. 2018-06-13_06-39-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-06-13_06-39-50 by sheepers, on Flickr