sheepers

started blocking it and its coming up really well. ive done the roof and borh rear quarters with only little pain in the arse corners left to do.the only issue so far is where ive touched the wet paint with my trouser leg. there's only a couple of little bits left to do and its good for a light coat of primer then wet sand ready for colour. im calling that a win. 2018-04-26_01-30-13 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-26_01-30-22 by sheepers, on Flickr

paint. i wire wheeled all the screen rebates and put brunox on them. then i masked it up and put heaps of hi build primer on it. it looks pretty good, ill start blocking it tomorrow and see how the shape starts coming up. 2018-04-25_04-11-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-25_04-10-16 by sheepers, on Flickr

na na na na na. na paint after welding. i paint the backs of the patches with a 1k etch before i weld them in then i splash a bit of epoxy primer about as best i can after welding.

epoxy prime first. i brush painted all the patches when i did the insides so there was no bare steel. bog over bare steel is bad emkay.

right so ive done the other side (and didnt take any photos because im slack) and then i poured epoxy primer everywhere inside the rear guards. now its on to paint. ive got the rear quarters and the roof ready for primer which ill be spraying tomorrow as long as nothing goes horribly wrong. both lower rear quarters had been pre-fucked and needed a bit of bog to get right. there is also a dent in the left side which it looks like they did'nt even try to get out. just fill it with bog mayte. so ive got that much better. i also chipped all the seam sealer out of the roof/rain gutter seam and it was pretty good in there. gave it a wire wheel with the grinder then a coating in Brunox to seal it up. 2018-04-24_05-01-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-24_05-01-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-24_05-01-39 by sheepers, on Flickr

not just yet. other things are higher up the cue (cough supercharger cough) and will get done first. for now its just make it work reliably for the short term and engine swaps can happen down the track.

yep. remove all steel so its nothing but aluminium and then heat treat.

i did a compression test on the motor and surprising enough it was down on 1 cylinder. i took the head off and the head gasket was actually intact. oh well, at least i know whats inside. there was actually some carbon/deterioration of the exhaust valve and seat in number 2 which explained the drop in compression. so, i took the head to GER to get it checked out and its soft and bent. no surprises there. a while back i bought a MS65 parts car that has an engine so i took the head off that to see if it was any better and of course its not, it is also soft and bent. so im going to get a head re-hardened and straightened. new valve guides new valve seats and valves re-ground. im also getting about 1mm skimmed off the head to bump the compression up a bit. factory they are 8.5 to 1 which isn't exactly ground breaking. the cam chain sprocket has a series of dowel holes which are there to accommodate chain stretch and allow you to advance the cam by either 3~9 degrees or 9~15 degrees. ill stuff around with these to try and get the cam timing as best as i can. lets be honest, this is a 4M, its not exactly going to be fast. so when i get the head back ill chuck it all back together. with the head off it allows me to fit a whole bunch of bits i had amassed from the MS51 build like the later model water pump housing with the water feed pipe around the back of the head instead going around the front. an HPC coated inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. a later model carburetor and some other dress up bits. and just to add more to this wall of text heres some useless information about early 4Ms. there are two types of oil feed to the cam and rockers for the early 4M motor. one feeds through a gallery inside the cam and has holes along the cam which feed the rockers. the other type has an oil pressurised pipe that runs along the top of the cam and bolts into each cam bearing cap with a banjo bolt. the pipe has tiny holes in it above each rocker and that how they are lubricated. the holes in this pipe are small and they block easily which is the cause of most of the cam/rocker failures and rattly rockers in the early 4M. and more useless information. the 4M gaskets set you can get from NZ gaskets/partmaster/BNT/repco etc have the wrong bore size in the headgasket. its too big and makes the already shit headgasket scenario even worse by reducing the wall thickness of the gasket where it matters most. you can get correctly sized head gaskets out of auzzie. there you go, some 4M barry useless information. heres a sad picture of a dirty untidy engine bay with half a motor in it. 2018-04-19_04-23-23 by sheepers, on Flickr

i have no idea where that is. or who that is.

what the fuck is wrong with you Ben?

mine is just triggered on with a relay. only need to trigger the clutch and it goes. i dont need any fancy pants rubbish.

all buttoned up. tbh im not really that happy with it but it will do. the whole arch and lower quarter has been smashed and bent and all the steel is stretched and fucked. i tried to get it better but its to far gone. i came really close to cutting the whole arch off but in the end i decided a few mm of bog isint the end of the world so that's what it'll get. once i fill the back of it all up with epoxy primer its be sealed and sweet as. 2018-04-13_04-36-00 by sheepers, on Flickr

did some more. its rust time. the ubiquitous "just smash it in and weld a plate over it mayte" rust repairs are present. in this case the new bit of steel had been brazed on, badly. the amount of distortion in the panels was fucking outrageous! the piece they welded over the top is at least 1.5mm thick and had contorted the lower quarter all over the shop. when i cut it off the factory steel popped back to where it was supposed to be which makes life easier. so the usual routine, cut the outer off, cut the inner out, make new bits, weld it all back together. old bits, 2018-04-12_03-44-44 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-12_03-44-36 by sheepers, on Flickr all cut away. i left the dangely bit so id know how low the inner is supposed to go. once i got the new inner all sorted i cut that bit off and made a new one. 2018-04-12_03-44-53 by sheepers, on Flickr new inner 2018-04-12_03-44-28 by sheepers, on Flickr new dangely bit. 2018-04-12_03-44-18 by sheepers, on Flickr ive made the new outer and have it clamped ready for welding which will be tomorrows job.

i put the old front springs out of the coupe in the sedan and some meow its lowered the front down a bit so it doesn't look so stupid. if your going to do this then remember kids, safety first! i also under sealed the insides of the front guards. 2018-04-09_01-49-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-09_01-48-57 by sheepers, on Flickr

doors all back on. they all seem to line up pretty good which is nice. fuck its high............ 2018-04-08_03-00-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-08_03-00-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-08_03-00-31 by sheepers, on Flickr