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_Matt last won the day on October 15 2019

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About _Matt

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    Manawatu Area Rep
  • Birthday 09/05/1995

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  1. $807 inc shipping for the whole rad, that's if they're still available. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1640028070
  2. Love how this is coming along! How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever!
  3. Next meet: 21st of July 2020 Will start these up again and see how things go. Back to the plaza this month. Meet at the Tesla charging side of the carpark at 6:30pm. Facebook Event
  4. Hmm suppose I should start these up again! July 21st?
  5. It's off the rotisserie for now! Needed to sort out the driveshaft which require the engine and gearbox to go back in. Got the axles sent away to be shortened and resplined by 105mm a side. That meant I should make an attempt at swapping the Altezza LSD and the 4.1 CWP into the diff head. No pics because I didn't really know what I was doing. But for those that are interested I ended up using the LSD side bearings and swapped the Estima pinion bearings onto the 4.1 pinion. The Altezza pinion bearings where thicker which made the pinion gear hit the diff case. I couldn't get the wear pattern right because I didn't have any shims other than the two that were already on the pinions. Got it close enough for the time being, will buy some shims or give it to someone else to finish off. Decided to run Coil-on-plugs instead of the dizzy relocation kit, mostly just to keep the engine bay looking simple and clean. Got a set of 1NZ coils, I'm thinking of casting up an adapter plate for them. Got the SQ engineering down-pull throttle linkage installed and got the accelerator cable shortened to suit. Made a vacuum block off plate, since I hope none of that stuff is needed anymore. Also at some stage I filled all the unneeded holes in the front radiator panel. Modded the accelerator pedal so it sits a bit closer to the other pedals, as before it was way off to the right. Two-piece driveshaft all mounted now too! Think I got the angles sorted after spending far too long trying to work it all out. It's an Altezza driveshaft with the front half shortened (yes I know the front section u-joint phasing is 90° out). In this photo you can also notice the sills have been strengthened (somehow missed that update somewhere). Used some 3mm angle and welded it the full length and ground back, so it's now really straight! Then boxed it back up to the floor, to try and stop dirt and moisture getting stuck in behind. Makes lifting the car along there way nicer! This is the centre bearing support mount, much thought was also put into this! Hopefully it's fine being welded to the seatbelt mounts haha. Still needs some doubler plates welded on to the other side of the tunnel.
  6. Sweet thanks man! I don't think there's going to be enough room to raise the gearbox up, could possibly drop the engine down a little if needed. I'll try and get the centre bearing mounted as high as it can, should be able to get it to 3° from the gearbox, and just have clearance for the handbrake. Yeah the diff has rose joints on one end and urethane on the other, so I'll probably just set it up as neutral.
  7. Awesome thanks! Gonna raise the centre bearing mount up a bit more so the angles aren’t quite as much. Most of the info on google just came up with raised 4x4’s haha
  8. Hi, trying to figure out what angle to set my diff up and where to mount the carrier bearing in my Starlet. From research I’ve found, most seem to just set up the first half shaft at 0° to the gearbox, and then setup the rear section the same as if it were a single piece driveshaft. But from what I’ve heard u-joints aren’t supposed to be operating at 0°. The other way is to make all the u-joint operating angles (O/A) cancel each other out. From my understanding and calculations I keep getting, the pinion angle degree always equal what the gearbox is set at - gearbox pointing down at 2.5° and pinion up 2.5°. To me that doesn’t seem right? But maybe it is? The pen in the drawing is what I measured the angles at, with it sitting where I’d ideally want it mounted, but I can easily raise the carrier bearing up if needed. The pencil is what I have come up with. Anyone know how to set it up?
  9. Thanks, no catch can or anything that bypasses the afm. Gave the afm and pod filter a clean and rotated the afm around 90° so the sensor is upright. Maybe made a slight difference, will see what happens in the next couple of drives. The signal from the afm was pretty consistent at 1.08v at idle. The pages from a manual say it should be approx 1.1v. Another thing is when I give it a little rev with the icv plugged in, it will drop down to about 1000-1200rpm and then take a few seconds to drop further to 800rpm. With it unplugged it goes straight down to 800rpm. Unsure if that’s related in some way?
  10. Cool thanks, will check it out tomorrow! There is a slight pie cut bend right before the airflow meter, so maybe that’s causing an issue
  11. Have swapped in another ecu and it has made no change. Have also had the idle valve unplugged for a while and it is better, sits somewhere around 600-800rpm pretty much all the time now. Just doesn’t like starting when cold that much. Blocking off the idle valve inlet kills the engine, so I assume that means no air is coming from anywhere else. Voltage from the ecu to the idle valve solenoid is 12v and decreases when revving, which is weird because it should be 6-7v when cold and 7-10v when hot. Had a thought the temp sensor could be bad but that is outputting the correct voltage. No idea what else to check!
  12. Both back sections of the floor done. Has an exhaust tunnel through it to suit a duel 2" system, should be able to tuck it right up above the chassis rails. Sills and chassis rails are now the lowest point in the middle section of the car. Made a rear strut brace to strengthen the upper shock mounts and to accommodate the extra load of coilovers. Made the exhaust tunnel through the front foot well too. Notched out the crossmember above the diff for clearance. Made a mount for a Wilwood pedal box, need to figure out where to put the reservoirs and move the accelerator pedal over a little. Raised the spare wheel well up 60mm to fit a larger fuel tank. Was a good chance to also drill out the spot welds on that centre mount and tidy up the rust that was forming in between.
  13. No I didn’t, but I did change the throttle body to a whole different unit which included another idle valve. The new one looked to be in better condition on the inside. Would of thought there would of been a slight difference on how it runs after changing the TB, if the issue was somewhat related to that. Will pull it off and check though. I will also check what voltage it’s receiving during different times.
  14. The AAC valve? If so, I’m not too sure, quite possibly?