_Matt

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_Matt last won the day on October 15 2019

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About _Matt

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  1. Thanks, no catch can or anything that bypasses the afm. Gave the afm and pod filter a clean and rotated the afm around 90° so the sensor is upright. Maybe made a slight difference, will see what happens in the next couple of drives. The signal from the afm was pretty consistent at 1.08v at idle. The pages from a manual say it should be approx 1.1v. Another thing is when I give it a little rev with the icv plugged in, it will drop down to about 1000-1200rpm and then take a few seconds to drop further to 800rpm. With it unplugged it goes straight down to 800rpm. Unsure if that’s related in some way?
  2. Cool thanks, will check it out tomorrow! There is a slight pie cut bend right before the airflow meter, so maybe that’s causing an issue
  3. Have swapped in another ecu and it has made no change. Have also had the idle valve unplugged for a while and it is better, sits somewhere around 600-800rpm pretty much all the time now. Just doesn’t like starting when cold that much. Blocking off the idle valve inlet kills the engine, so I assume that means no air is coming from anywhere else. Voltage from the ecu to the idle valve solenoid is 12v and decreases when revving, which is weird because it should be 6-7v when cold and 7-10v when hot. Had a thought the temp sensor could be bad but that is outputting the correct voltage. No idea what else to check!
  4. Both back sections of the floor done. Has an exhaust tunnel through it to suit a duel 2" system, should be able to tuck it right up above the chassis rails. Sills and chassis rails are now the lowest point in the middle section of the car. Made a rear strut brace to strengthen the upper shock mounts and to accommodate the extra load of coilovers. Made the exhaust tunnel through the front foot well too. Notched out the crossmember above the diff for clearance. Made a mount for a Wilwood pedal box, need to figure out where to put the reservoirs and move the accelerator pedal over a little. Raised the spare wheel well up 60mm to fit a larger fuel tank. Was a good chance to also drill out the spot welds on that centre mount and tidy up the rust that was forming in between.
  5. No I didn’t, but I did change the throttle body to a whole different unit which included another idle valve. The new one looked to be in better condition on the inside. Would of thought there would of been a slight difference on how it runs after changing the TB, if the issue was somewhat related to that. Will pull it off and check though. I will also check what voltage it’s receiving during different times.
  6. The AAC valve? If so, I’m not too sure, quite possibly?
  7. Pulled out the ecu and opened it up. Everything looked good. Only problem I could see, there was a dent on the under side located where the JECS logo is in the lower left. It was pushed in enough for the cover to be indented from the board and those pins coming off the plug. Maybe that has caused something to short out? Wasn’t anything noticeable.
  8. Also keen on that, but that’s a lot of $$$. Have a bellhousing and clutch setup to suit a w series manual box, which will make it way more fun to drive!
  9. Ahhhh will have a look, thanks. Knew this was a common issue with 4age 20v Ecu’s. Didn’t think to check on this
  10. Thanks guys, will have a check over all that. I’m pretty sure the butterfly/throttle linkage is closing properly, as I gave it a push down and the idle barely drops at all. It is running a vacuum brake booster and the other couples of vacuum lines are blocked off. I have been thinking it has been electrical for awhile, because of the power off and back on, then it comes right, but trying to find another ecu has proven a bit difficult.
  11. Hey @fletch, I have cleaned out the AAC valve and it made no difference. Then I got a whole new throttle body, which included a different AAC valve and bolted that all up. Again made no difference. I did notice the coolant isn’t hooked up to flow through the throttle body. I don’t think that should be causing this issues though. I did also back the adjusting screw that the AAC valve pushes and moves the throttle linkage up all the way out, so it shouldn’t idle up from that anymore. That also made no difference. Another thing to add is when you give it a decent rev at idle it will start idling even higher, not sure if it does it all the time or just when it’s already idling high though.
  12. _Matt

    Muffler Tech

    Here’s the last exhaust I made for a VK commodore. Twin 2.5”. Made the mufflers/resonators as straight through louvred type. Sounded really good and not too loud.
  13. _Matt

    Muffler Tech

    Ideally I’d be doing a single 2.5” but that would hang too low for my liking. I also want to make it from stainless tube with mandrel bends so that slightly limits the sizes available as well. A dual 1.5” system would be too small I think. Next size up would be 2”, which would be too small as a single system. Having it set up for a built engine sounds good as well, if that route ever happens
  14. _Matt

    Muffler Tech

    Would a dual 2" exhaust on a fairly standard 4age blacktop be alright? From my calculations the area should be somewhere right between having either a single 2 5/8" or 3" exhaust. Trying for max ground clearance and anything bigger than 2" will require a lot more of the floor to be cut up. Will have 1.5" 4-1 hi-rise headers. @kpr?