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_Matt last won the day on February 9 2016

_Matt had the most liked content!

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About _Matt

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    Manawatu Area Rep
  • Birthday 09/05/1995

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  1. Next meet: Tuesday 20th of August 2019 More info in the first post. Now using a private Facebook event to help spread the word a bit and remind people when it’s on. Send me a message if you need an invite. You can invite friends, just make sure they’re going to behave as we’d like to keep the Plaza on our side.
  2. I have made a private Facebook event for the next meet. I can invite anyone as long as they have a mutual friend and anyone invited can invite as well. If you want an invite send me a message and I’ll try and send you one. I think I can send them to your email or phone number.
  3. Thanks to those that turned up! Was a Chevy (+1 mitsi) meet this time. I think it needs to have a Facebook event, will try a private invite only one next time and see how that goes.
  4. _Matt

    Air bag suspension chat

    I used all 1/2” valves and 1/2” x 1.4mm wall thickness aluminium tube for everything. The push to lock fittings seemed to work well with Ali tube and they haven’t started leaking yet. Only leaks I’ve had were from the 90° fittings that weren’t the swivel type, because they weren’t very tight, as I couldn’t get them pointing in the right direction. Also the water traps were leaking so took them out. Stays up overnight no problem now. The only other issues I have is the rear pops up way too quick with the 1/2” lines. Goes past ride height and then has to drop back down a bit. Goes too fast for it all to react and is uncomfortable. I did slide some 3/8” tube inside the 1/2” which made it a little less violent, but it could still be slowed down more. Front is perfect though. Also because I’m running the Accuair E -level, it monitors the ride height and updates it every minute or so. It started doing some wired stuff by dropping a corner randomly. Ended up disabling it and just pressing the ride height button when on flat ground to even it all out. Could of got away using a cheaper/simpler kit since I’ve now disabled most of its functions haha.
  5. Next meet: Tuesday 16th of July 2019 More info in the first post. The Plaza has let us continue to us their carpark, no more public event on Facebook though.
  6. _Matt

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Pickup

    It made it in a few magazines recently. Performance Car in the 4 & Rotary Jamboree section. Petrolhead in the Beachhop section. NZV8 Beachhop Edition. And the recent NZV8 in the editorial. Had the transmission pulled apart and the forward clutch was burnt out. After waiting a month for the trans to be rebuilt and getting a price back, I decided my Dad could have the rebuilt one and I'd pull out the one that was bolted up to a dummy engine in one of his projects. It looked to be in good condition from the outside. Grabbed the bits I needed off my old one and swapped them over. Hooked it all up and put some new oil in. Went for a test drive and it goes way better than it has ever had!! Has been my daily for the past few weeks (sorry neighbours! The 6-7am coldstarts with the compressors kicking in must get annoying haha), haven't had any major issues! Have done over 1000km in it since the new trans has been in. Went out last weekend and took some decent photos of it.
  7. Sweet, I’ll let you know what they reply with
  8. I think a cop car did a loop around us just before security turned up and kicked us out. Plaza management seen the facebook event and sent out an email to security to get it shutdown. Was a pretty good turn out before that happened, maybe 20+ cars and some were pretty cool! Have sent the Plaza an email, just waiting to see what they say, otherwise we’ll have to think of somewhere else to go. Seen you parked up down Main Street, sorry we didn’t stop, didn’t know you were broken down!
  9. Not a bad turnout last night, was more oldschool cars than I expected and not so much newer stuff. New meet up - 18th of June https://www.facebook.com/events/358214414899341
  10. More than welcome!
  11. I don’t know what I’m doing, but I’m going to try and start these again haha https://www.facebook.com/events/2117971954946066/
  12. Next meet: 20th of August 2019 Meet at the Plaza car park at 6:30 on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. Then later if you’re feeling a bit hungry head over to Burgerfuel or where ever for a feed. Hope to see you all there! There’s a private Facebook event, send me a message if you want an invite! Discussion Thread
  13. Yeah thought about removing them, looks easy enough, just need a new spot weld drill
  14. _Matt

    Matt's '81 KP60 Starlet

    I guess I finally got enough courage to fix the rest of the rust. Had plenty of spare time over Easter so thought I'd better do something and was sick of having a puddle on the floor each time it rained heavily. The rust hole under the wiper motor was the worst of it, kept putting it off because of the location and how tight the space is to get at. Ground the mounting plate off, the rust was a little worse than I thought it was gonna be. Made a patch to fit and then cut a much bigger hole. Took a few attempts to get the patch the right shape. All welded in, didn't come out too bad. Got a rust cut from Olds Cool Autos as the wiper mount was a bit past it after I cut it off. Carefully removed the lower skin and gave it all a sandblast. Welded it in place after testing the wipers still worked properly. Had to pull out the mig welder for the first time in a few years since i couldn't get the rear plug welds with the tig. Mig does plug welds nicer any way. The drivers door had quite a few holes on the bottom. Also had some tiny holes on the outer skin in the front corner, was easier to just cut that whole piece out and make a new patch. Made a couple of patches for the inner skin and welded them in, then brushed on some paint. Next made up the outer skin patch, welded that up and then hammered the edge over. The outside has a little distortion since I couldn't get a dolly in there properly to stretch the weld out, but nothing a light skim of bog won't fix. Another few patches further down which finished off the rust in this door. Was a good time to fill up the original side mirror mount holes. Cutting out 6mm diameter circles wasn't that easy! Underneath the fuel cap was some more rust coming through. Sanded it back and just the top needed replacing with new steel. Rust killed it all after patching it and then seam sealed it back up. Both A-pillars had some rust coming through, no holes though, so rust killed them. Still need to fill the antenna holes.
  15. _Matt

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Pickup

    Got the intake all done with a K&N filter, looks pretty good I think. Took a guy for a drive that knows transmission things up the road and back and he reckoned the trans was sweet, shifting how it should, just the engine was massively down on power. Tried to diagnose the problem myself but I couldn't really figure much out. It was throwing error codes for the secondary throttle and knock sensors. Discovered the secondary throttle sensor was only used for traction control so I didn't need to worry about that one. Was hoping the knock sensors were just reading high because the timing was out, so I took it to Danny's Autos in Palmy to go on the dyno and see if they can tune it and figure out what's wrong. They got it on the dyno, they were just bringing it up to speed and fuel started pissing out everywhere. One of the fuel hoses going up to the fuel rail split, don't know if it just happened or if it's been like that for awhile, but we never noticed any fuel in the valley before, where as there was heaps in it then. So off came the intake and manifold to replace it. Whilst they had that off they had a look at the knock sensors and they had seen better days. The wiring pins were pretty corroded and the casings were cracked. They sourced some new OEM ones and chucked them in. They also found one of the breather hoses had a split, as well as one of the igniter modules was only firing 1 of 4 cylinders on that one side. So basically this has only been running on 5 cylinders all this time. Thought it didn't sound quite right haha. The steering rack also decided to start leaking power steering fluid out of a place the fluid shouldn't be. Beach Hop was the next week and the rack had to be sent to Auckland to be rebuilt. Managed to get the engine back together and drive it home on the Tuesday night and pull out the rack to be sent off on Wednesday. Luckily they got around to rebuilding it fairly quick and sent off again so it arrived first thing on Friday morning. Got a different igniter module from the wreckers off a SR20 and it ran waaaaaay better! Chucked the rack back in Friday morning and took it for a WOF, passed with flying colours, so went and got some rego and now it's all legal!!!! On Friday/Saturday the fuel pump must of came out about a dozen times, half of which were on the side of the road. Went for a bit of a drive and the fuel pump kept dying for some reason, thought maybe the wiring in-tank was a bit dodgy, replaced it all and soldered every connector, that didn't make much difference. Discovered that if I gave the pump a good smack it would start back up pumping a bit more fuel or just die completely. Decided to get another fuel pump from Repco and chucked that in. Turns out the brand new "genuine" Walbro pump I got off ebay was shit. Went sooooo much better again!! Took it to the 4 & Rotary Jamboree show and shine at Manfield on the Sunday and took home the Best Commercial Piston trophy. Then on the Monday took it back into Danny's Autos to get dyno'd. Made 100kw at the wheels which I thought wasn't quite right (should be closer to 200kw?), but he reckoned it was running right and just the reading wasn't that accurate, he had trouble getting into 4th, kept changing down, so had to do it in third and that was maxing out the dyno's rolling speed. It had good consistent 02 sensor readings. Took it up to Beach Hop on the Wednesday. Had no issues other than getting some brake fade through the windy bits between Waihi and Whangamata, we think there must of still been some air left in the lines. After that happened I was changing it manually between 2nd and 3rd gear through the windy bits, rather than just leaving it in drive as it engine brakes way more. Survived all through Beach Hop, including going up to Whitianga, Kuaotuna and Onemana as well as cruising up and down the main street lots, the rear bumper took a few scrapes, I think it needs some titanium stripes underneath! I think it was one of the cars that got some of the most attention. Managed to get all the way back down to Marton, then when I was overtaking up a hill, noticed smoke coming from under the dash, so quickly pulled over and checked it out. The transmission sump had either smoke or steam since it was raining coming off of it, also smelt very burnt and the oil was quite dark. My parents caught up and we decided to just keep driving. I then noticed it was revving at 3500rpm at 100km/h, where as it's usually around about 1800rpm. It was only changing from first into second gear and that's it, if I took my foot off the accelerator it would drop straight down to idle. It was a slow drive home from there at 70km/h. Next couple of days I pulled the trans out, pulled off the sump and it had quite a bit of metallic build up at the bottom and just smelt very burnt. I guess it's always been slipping, as to why it didn't make much power on the dyno. Dropped it off today to get a quote on being rebuilt, so hopefully it's not too bad. It used about $400 worth of petrol over Beach Hop, which I think worked out to be 15 l/100km. After driving it for about 1200km I have decided the seat definitely needs redoing, it's way too hard, would also be nice to sit a bit lower and further back as well. Also the accelerator pedal has your foot at too much of an angle back, so gets sore rather quick. Shouldn't be too hard to fix as the seat changes should help and just modify the pedal a little. Also the door latches + door seals are terrible, takes way too much effort to get them closing right. A softer door seal might help, and you can get bear jaw latch kits that are basically a bolt in thing for these which might be the go when I have the spare money.