_Matt

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_Matt last won the day on October 15 2019

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About _Matt

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    Manawatu Area Rep
  • Birthday 09/05/1995

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  1. Picked up these two ST140 Corona Coupes off @Simon a few weeks back. For those that don’t know about them, the “complete” one was running a 1UZ and W series box and t-series solid diff. The other has an IRS rear end mocked up. Both currently have no running gear though. Old and mostly dead build thread click here. Not 100% sure on what I’m doing with them yet, but the Starlet needs finishing first anyway. Will slowly collect parts that pop up in the meantime. Need another uncracked windscreen, apparently A6* Celica’s are the same, if anyone knows of any. Looking forward to starting them one day in the future!
  2. Cheers! It’s most likely going to be done at a diff shop, but I’ll try and get as much info as I can
  3. Sweet thanks guys! Will pull it apart sometime and have a look. Not great pics, but all I have atm. Throttle body has the extra throttle sensor and solenoid? for traction control I think.
  4. Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.
  5. The VH41de in my pickup has had an issue for a little while, where it will idle somewhere around 1000-1200rpm, it’s like it stays on cold start or the throttle is sticky. Seems to do it more often if doing lots of shorter trips. It doesn’t drop down until you turn it off and back on, then sits somewhere around 5-600 rpm. I don’t think it’s transmission related as it’s on it’s third trans and has done it for all of them. That’s another issue that need sorting. I have checked most of the sensors and the voltage readings seem about right to the manual. Anything else I could check?
  6. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Going back to the plaza for this months meet. 21st of January at 7:00pm. See you there!
  7. How well does that copper spray paint react with Tig welding? From what I’ve heard it can create some problems, even with mig
  8. All electronic. Have tested the readings on all the sensors and everything seems to be reading right as per the manual. When checking the engine codes it comes up with secondary throttle sensor, but I’m pretty certain that’s what controls the traction control, and it doesn’t have anything to do with the trans, so should be fine being de-pinned from the ecu. Its possible it’s just been two bad transmissions to start with!
  9. A couple months ago this got featured in the NZV8 magazine. @Snoozin did a wonderful job! Got sick of the doors not shutting correctly. Had my parent's bring back some Altman latches from the US on one of their trips over. Relatively simple to install, but modified a few things so they work a bit nicer and installed some electric solenoids. Need to sort some more door seals as these ones leave some large gaps in places. The final thing that needed doing to "finish" it off finally got done! Mark Dunn in Levin did an awesome job on the upholstery. We made new plywood seat bases and he built up foam for the seat. We made it thinner than the factory one, so I could sit a bit lower and further back. The seats are also way softer now! Some random pics from the past couple of months. At some stage I also swapped out the fog lights for the grill guard, as they weren't mounted that great and were cracking the bumper panel. Will modify them and put them back on one day. No.2 transmission is on it's way out. Can smell it burning the oil when going up large hills. Have changed the filter and flushed the oil and no difference. Took it up to drag day and it decided it only wanted to use third gear after the first run. Did a couple more 21-22 second runs and then parked up for the rest of the day. When we left it was back to normal. Unsure whats going on there. Had a suggestion it went into limp mode. Have another trans there that I could swap in and see what happens with that one, otherwise really considering manual swapping it!
  10. Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to suit. Welded in filler pieces. Cleaned up. Next was to make some strips to fill in the sides. Had contemplated making them with the factory swagings, but decided it would be easier to flatten them out and make the strips flat. Then the tunnel to firewall gap needed filling. Made a paper template, transferred it to the steel, cut it, formed it and it nearly fitted perfectly first try. All cleaned up. Up next was the firewall cutout for the dizzy blank cover to sit in. Tried again to make it look factory, which I think turned out pretty good. Stripped out all the sound deadening with dry ice. Have only cleaned off the residue from the passengers seat and footwell area. Pulled out all the wiring as well. Need a F-series diff now.
  11. Gonna try out the Rose and Crown carpark from this month. Meet at 7:00pm on Tuesday the 17th.
  12. December meet details up. This month is at the Rose and Crown carpark from 7:00pm on Tuesday the 17th of December.
  13. Opinions on changing the location to the Rose and Crown carpark (sorta corner of Main and Ruahine Street) for a meet or few? A couple of different food places there.