JustHarry

Personally if a new clutch is available I'd just buy a new pressure plate and fiction disk kit and get the flywheel surfaced then you know it's as good as its gonna be. But of extra cost now is better than taking motor/gearbox back out again imho

I checked fault codes by joining 2 terminals in the diagnostic plug. Still nothing. I doubt it's an ecu fault or there would be visual damage inside it. But there isnt . Maybe something in the pump decided to break?

Noooooooooooooo But damn I though toyota tax was bad. That's next level

I'm still pretty unhappy. Spill valve and relay are fine. ECU appears fine Took the spill valve out and there is plenty of diesel being fed to it when I pump the filter pump But nothing to the injectors? Somone give me guidance before I just buy a mechanical pump from kaiapoi repowers

Yip. Cleaned it out when I replaced the spill valve. Stuck it to the bottom of the valve with rubber grease on instructions from Hayden at mds

Shouldn't be ecu. As @h4nd only recently replaced all the caps. I will check in the weekend though. There was talk from one of the mechanics at work about a shared Input shaft on the pump. Maybe more common now they are aging Spill valve is operating. I can feel it click if I hold it when they key is turned on. If it's not ecu I'll be talking to Hayden at mds and might get them to diagnose it Getting over this sack and its unreliability recently aye

So my kzj78 has shit the bed again Stalled at work and wouldnt start. Plenty of fuel from the filter. But non at the injectors . Spill valve is brand new dense a few weeks ago. Has correct 1.6ohm resistance and the power to it hasnt changed from when I fitted it I cant smell burning electronics like I did when the old spill valve died. I'm at a loss. Maybe pump drive has broken?

If we put beacons on top of the support vehicles and all were hi viz the road works wouldn't be an issue.

Maybe by the time we want to go through the rd mught be good enough for a few scouts and a couple 4wds? Could ask nicely to let us through? Or is the district council just nah

Tar/underseal we just use a heat gun and a scraper to remove at work. It's a shit job no matter what. But that's the cleanest way to remove. Wire wheels usually just heat it and make a gooey mess same with sandblasting or sanding Then solvents usually paint thinners to get the last sratchings off.

What are these rods you speak of? I've got to fix a crack in the top plate of my coal range just at the thin part that goes around the flu . I dont want to recast is as it's a big piece Does brazing work? Maybe with a gusset

Yeah I've left everything there for that same reson. Just blanked the pipe off. The solenoids are the same so will be close enough

Nope. Both gearboxes are exactly the same length and use same slip yoke

Ok. I though if was further back. When I put a w50 in my 1971 crown from a w40 I had to modify the crossmember significantly.

Sweet. Will have a look at mine In the weekend and see if i can make it work.