RUNAMUCK

/end thread //ling

I'd missed that update from last year! What a tale. Also, Bruh, where is your safety chain?

Jag Roadpacer! /end thread......

Tube front end question, Since I was where the car is, I had a wee measure up to see what it might look like. The centre of the factory strut top hole would be in a line with the black felt mark. (I see the OG guy had a white line in the same spot too) The centre of the hole would be somewhat inboard of the tube too. Since the original strut town is long gone, there's nothing to stop the new one being higher than the orginal was. I've seen this done on racecars/at least one road going datsun. (There was a shellsport car where the tops of the struts were proud of the bonnet even) Obviously this retains suspension travel/strut length, while kicking that pesky ride height to the kerb. My question is, would I just get a couple of steel plates (say 5-6mm) cut a hole in them, notch out the bottom, and hang them over the tube & metal glue them on? Then add a top plate across them, which had the holes for camber tops etc? The outboard side could be boxed in too, with that section also attached to the tube. Is my thinking on the right track here?

Oh, I'm glad you quoted that bit, cos I missed that part the first time around. I have some uber lush euro leather buckles with bags. I guess I'll have to wade in, and extract them nearer the time too.

Good video. Thanks man. It's a rabbithole indeed!

Technically Riverside was a rental too.......

Fixed.

Maybe a winter 27 meet might be more feasible? Hanmer could feature in next ywars moped melee yet. That's usually a good time to grease up the camp to let us stay there again.

ITBs you say? @RomanDave insenfies........

Had to search to find this thread. (The cool kids have a link in the first post of their build thread) Just wanted to say, Please post lots of pics of the frame etc for.you flip front.

I think at one time @JoKer was 3d printing those sunny guard badges. (The factory ones were about as UV stable as a margarine pottle full of nail polish remover) I dunno if Joker still comes here, but he's on Bookface.

Okay a quick Google, (I don't want to learn, just give me the answers) reveals a whole heap of reading which I'll have to struggle through when it's not an hour past my bedtime.

I only know enough to know, there's a shitload about it that I don't know..... Although I don't recall the specifics, I did read somewhere that altering the pinion angle can improve the way the tyre grabs/improve traction. However that could have been for circuit cars? @shizzl put me onto a website called Rod ends NZ. They seem to have a lot of the stuff you wouldn't want to buy off aliexpress. I havent had anything laser cut for a long time. But those store bought plates I posted up are pretty damn spendy.

I couldn't find the 4 link design thread, so I'll post up here instead. Thinking about the back end of one of the cars I own. The guy who started building it four linked the rear. But when he sold it to the guy I got it off, he kept the 9" link bars, and coil overs . Since whichever axle I use will need to be extensively narrowed, I might as well run the mount plates which completely encircle the axle tube. I was thinking it's no biggie to have something laser cut, or plasma cut them myself. I'm literally the worst drawer who ever lived. But imagine this is a plate with an axle tube hole in the centre, and a pivot bolt top and bottom for the links. seeing what already exists in the market, I found these for sale for way too much money. You can see that this one has the pivot point where the arms attach forward of the axle centreline. Is this done to reduce the instance the arms/rod ends contacting the axle tube at the extremities of travel? Or some other rationale? (Better transmission of forward motion to the chassis, or superior ability to resist the rotational forces of the differential? You tell me????) So back to my truely incredible technical drawings, I could do a plate like this, (Yes, making one with a row of holes top and bottom would be a lot smarter. The hole options in the mounting plates on the chassis have already been drilled Assuming they're at uniform centres, the centre to centre measurements of the arm mounting holes would need to mirror this pre-ordained distance to maintain the top and bottom remaining parallel through range of motion. (But this drawing is just for the sake of trying to convey the guts of my query) So far, it's all semi straightforward. But as for the coilover mounts on the diff, (there were coil overs on the diff the builder had in there) it seems to me like these could similarly be integrated into the same bracket too. (Mounted to the rear of the axle tube) More CAD quality draughtsmanship from me, Now as this is one piece, the shock mounting ear could be sited pretty much anywhere through the 180-ish degrees on the rear side of the axle tube. Depending on the size of the bottom eye of whatever coilover was used, there could easily be a spacer (if it here narrower than the width of the ends of the link bars) or a crush tube could be employed to improve the strength. (Additionally a Brace could welded across the two plates along the bottom side to aid rigidity too. If you're still following, my two questions are, Is there an ideal offset from the axle centreline to the centreline of the link bar mounting points? (Or does this matter?) And, is there a preferred offset from the axle centreline back to the centre of the coilover mounting point? My time fucking about with cars has taught me that such things are never left to change by the OEM. And the blokes who design this shit are a fuckton clever-er than me. Ta.