chris r

You've probably checked but is there any way of supply and return being mixed up on the fuel rail or pressure regulator? Is there any display for coolant temp? If that sensor has randomly shit the bed or reading wrong it can cause stupidity with mixtures. Seen it heaps on stock Nissan's when I was on the tools, coolant temp sensor shits the bed and ecu thinks its negative a million degrees and dumps fuel in for cold enrichment Quick and dirty test for maf sensor(s) is to unplug them and see if it behaves less badly when ecu is in limp mode or not using the maf sensor inputs.

Maybe I should cut the other muffler off and since I have the grinder out cut the back half off

Could also be placebo but it does feel like it goes better after its mufflerectomy. Not like I could be pressing the pedal any harder than I was before. If I had more caring I'd have a look under the house and see if i had any more 3"toob left and let the musso breathe better, but if I remember correctly it's under @Raizers van

Had a chat with my mate who supplies clutches. Nothing available in nz to suit the om606 flywheel/gearbag combo so I'll have to find something ex Europe. Ideally the dual mass flywheel needs to be replaced as it can't be re surfaced but every expense spared so I'll clean the rust off and send it. Most likely the friction plate won't like it and I'll and end up buying a flywheel and plate afterall but that's future me problem Quick 4 hour return trip and I swapped the gearbag today for one with a speedo drive to try and simplify speedo side of things, it has the speedo drive gear and different rear housing with provision for a speedo sender. The mount is slightly different too which should make it easier to fab a mount up I grabbed a speedo cable from a w201 190e at pick a part. Might have to barry up a Honda speed sensor on the end for a electronic sensor (beagle has a sensor that clips onto the end of the speedo cable for the cluster) I was thinking the btr box was behaving nicely after the tps in a can but 3.5 hrs in on the way home it decided otherwise. Torque converter lockup 4th violently into 3rd was a good wakeup when I got off the motorway it decided second was all it wanted. Turned it off and let it cool down and it's back to all 4 gears again. If it's not raining tomorrow I'll check the fluid

It's okay, significantly better than a straight pipe or no muffler and it was the right price Just needs more fuel screw and more boost

Was keen and carefully and precisely deleted the mid muffler Used my rotary pipe expander and a piece I cut off the muffler to hammer the pipe on Very carefully and cut a piece of tube to length. Used the same piece of muffler as a hammer to precisely clearance the end Hanger looks mint from someone else's house I did weld it all together to industry standards, no prep, shut my eyes and pull the mig trigger. And after all that caring and effort it's still quiet because the rear muffler has been replaced with a nice quiet restrictive one. Really should have looked at that first /cut that off as it would have been significantly easier. I've only got 3" stainless stuff in stock but that's destined for the Honda and its too valuable to put on this so I'll leave it as for now

Lots of people complain about the tps being dumb causing shift issues with the btr box in the mussos (and falcons). The few trips to wash world for their pressure washer to clean the engine maaaay have got some water in the tps. Found some tps in a can and gave the connector a clean out and the tps a general spritzing. Seems to be behaving now but will see how it goes If it still wants to be dumb I'll measure the resistance at 20% throttle and give it a resistor so it's 20% all the time.

And the same rotors as the type r Hrv swaybar etc might be a option too as the hrv apparently logo based so might be some honda lego options there

So after hours of looking through parts catalogues the w210 gearbox appears to be the same internally as the earlier w126 box just with a different rear housing. The guy I got this gearbox off has another gearbox with speedo drive. Hopefully I'll be able to exchange it, if not no worries

The eggball helpers didn't last very long. Gearbox in the back seems to have finished them off The auto box has decided it wants to randomly shift from overdrive 4th to 3rd when cruising down the motorway It may be related to the stationary cooling system test but who knows. I'll service the merc trans and if I have leftover fluid I'll check the mussos level is correct and top it up if needed

Nah if I could be lazy and get away with just using the guibo I would

Which $80 part did you mean? The uj? Issue is the manual gearbag flange is different from the auto. (btr vs Mercedes) So it'd be better to go for a two piece shaft with merc triangle and slip joint etc for the diff on the other end made by a recognised industry specialist? Technically need a cert for auto to manual swap anyway 😉

What's the go with Driveshaft adaptor flanges etc? I had a quick look through the construction manual and only saw driveshaft spacers Would something like this be okay? https://www.benzforce.com/products/mercedes-90-100mm-transmission-driveshaft-adapter?srsltid=AfmBOoqloi4WlYsehMEd6kHQtVsoaNVMtH95AAI0gLs2meChwdjSY3s6 Stock trans has guibo and locating shaft Would be nice to ditch the guibo and have this style uni and slip joint shaft in its place bolted to a adapter on the back of the gearbag

The merc blower from pap wouldn't work with the Honda spinning anti clockwise and the haltech has a few extra outputs so can use one to switch the charger on mad Max style

I know, it does depend on which fuel is being run though