h4nd

Dissolve rust/iron in vinegar? The acetic acid shouldn't be able to get through the aluminium oxide skin (test on something equiv to check first!). I've seen a vid where a guy was doing this to free broken studs from an alloy block, just can't find the link at the mo sorry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Reactions_with_inorganic_compounds

Your switch pulls low, but you've got the interrupt triggering on RISING, (at the end (trailing edge) of the button press. This will be a bit later on, if the relay is holding for a while). Debounce is normally pretty short, 200ms should be plenty. If the relay is holding on for too long, you will just miss some of the 'presses'. Try putting an LED on the output to see how it's looking.That'll need solving first. In this case, you could replace the relay with: a small bridge rectifier, and a resistor to limit the current to about 20mA, and use an optocoupler (faster than a relay) just put the output of the optocoupler as your 'switch" the output is often polarised, but easy to figure out, and won't be damaged in your sensing circuit.

I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy. Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just: set to DC 2A scale hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field clip around wires(s). 105mA 5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system. --wrong link-- Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains.

Looks OK, can you re-post as quote text please? Indent and spaces matter for python.

Good-o, so it's probably staying pulled in, and not oscillating at 100Hz during the transition. How's the code for reading the pin look?

What kind of relay? Mechanical or electronic? I see it says 24ac, is it ac driving it?

Where's the standards / requirements for ewof for caravan please? I can see many docs saying 'you must have one' but none syring what the the technical requirements are (other than it's 'proscribed work''). Thanks. Basically I wanna see what's the minimum needed to get power into a van for a PC, lamp and a heater. Cheers edit: @kempy? Update, it's a joint AU/NZ standard, $123 to download here in NZ: or at https://vicparks.com.au/app/uploads/2016/02//as3001_2001-electrical-installations-relocatable-premises.pdf

Should I design up a board to slap an arduino in that has a 12V reg, inputs and will drive ignition / relays / whatever? (Carduino) Also, many of the cheap Chinese arduino clones use the CH340 usb-serial interface chip. Unfortunately the drivers for this are a bit shit. My main desktop was having power/sleep mode troubles, and ended up rebooting everynight (resetting my workspaces, and long running jobs). Tracked it down to a WeMOS board, so all is well if I unplug it last thing. HTH / H4nd

Does PC related tech crap go here?

Paided. Gerrooorr!

The reed valves seemed OK, so I was scratching my head, (even ordered some carbon fibre sheet to make new ones) and then this happened: So I started pulling it down today. Even with a powerplant the size of a big family box of weetbix, it still looks like I'll have to pull the engine and transaxle in one go. I thought it looked about 50 / 50 that I'd be able to shufty the block out sideways off the transaxle. I'll have a big cuppa, and ponder that tomorrow.

So I got it going last time, and it seemed good for a couple of months. Then per this post over in the two-stroke tuning thread: I stopped at friends, dropped a thing off, then when I went to go, car start OK, runs OKish at idle but very much won't rev. I've checked the ignition, both sides look stable and consistent. I discovered that there's a bunch of fuel mist above the main jet on open throttle and especially as the revs come up. This wasn't there when it was running well (I have video for comparison.). I'd assumed reed valves, and a couple were weak-ish, but none broken, chipped or very much warped. Seats look OK-ish. I thought it may have been the fuel pump diaphram, but changed it: no improvement. On thinking about it again, I was unclear that would even blow fuel/air up the fuel line to the carb, the float valve should contained it. I've pulled down the inlet tract 4 times, with compilations of reed valves from old parts (best available, then older complete assemblies as cross check) but same symptoms each time. I happened to have another carb, and have thrown that on, same results. Is (stainless) reed valve failure really subtle? I'm looking at them, and they all look pretty good, just subtle differences in how they seat, and a couple which go "toing" (lower pitch) compared to most which go "ting". Pics, and running OK vs carb spitting vids: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DxVkKzMkdkqEu9uF6

My now working (sort of) car is delivering folks to the 'Coast (hopefully). Any bros going past Woolston on the way for the OS meat tonight?

LTspice

Now to fling some ching-ching at the new bling-king for his swing-thing. /ling