h4nd

One of the things I love about this job, is that after 25-30 years, I make amazing discoveries when I make stuff like this: Rare and precious wisdom like, the put crossover resistors so you can fix the "serial is backwards" fuckup (JP1, JP2). And even better: serial works even better when you plug it in. Oh, and those computer screws you hoard for 20 years, eventually come in handy

I found a part number and wimped out and ordered the random collection of parts to flow electrons. After I fixed the modified one from last time... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009503940596.html

These are a good wee V down-converter, $4. Might work there: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/other-electronics/electronic-components/other/listing/5571659718

(sneaky double post delete) Oh, and: https://fastled.io/

Yep, though you might be surprised how much you need. - What's the hot/cold resistance of the sensor? - (just for a double check) what's the dc V across the dial when reading full? (engine running, 14.5V). if it's less than 5.5V, bang one of these in parallel with the dial (can be away from the dial) for a first kick at the cat https://www.jaycar.co.nz/1f-5-5vdc-super-capacitor/p/RU6705 If it's more, jamb 2 of them in series to get the voltage rating (halves the effective capacitance) If you want to do it cheeeeeep, there's some in my junk bin you can have for the cost of a cup of tea when I mooch up thataway next.

Perfect. No notes.

Good list here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Daihatsu_engines#Z

Is yours the ZM 3 or earlier engine? Mine's ZM-4 in an L38 chassis

Ah: I didn't tick the thing when i ordered: Edge plating means $2 boards require ENIG (yeah literally gold plated - I should do a Trump Parody PCB), so goes to USD$18, then when ticking the thing, goes to USD$65. interesting. I wonder if that's needed for plated internal slots too?

Naturally, I give a moment to warm up, then give it some boot, to see how it revs: Nope. I'd just re-checked the ignition and timing, so was reasonably confident that was OK, and I seemed to have the carb in better shape: (I've just realied as I type, it's possible I've lowered the fuel level too much, and it's leaning out under throttle. If so, that's dangerous for 2T, they overheat and destroy top ends really fast, but see also:) I left it for a day and had a think, tried again, and noticed this: This was 10-20s after I stopped it. That seems to be exhaust smoke in under the carb. I blew at it, and it looked like smoke, it's not fuel vapour. This implies the reed valves aren't right. Before I changed the motor (to the not-rebuilt one) a couple of years ago, I spent quite some time on the reed valves, as it seemed to explain the symptoms at that time. However, that was a year or two of daily running ago, on (inspected / fettled) 2nd hand parts, so maybe they've just aged out, cracked, chipped, whatever. It's incredible how many times those steel valve petals must have flapped over the years, really. So I'll have a look at those next (another surgeons job to remove, not much hand space down the back of the motor). Should they look terrible; once upon a time one of our scooter suppler chaps ( @Mop Head?) sent me some carbon fibre sheets, so I might even be able to cobble up a 'performance parts' replacement even better the OG factory. Tho, first I'll see if I can test them in-situ. so I built yet another pneumatic test-jig. This one might let me seal to the top of the carb, and the vacuum side of the mattess pump should pull the reeds closed. I'll test the tester, and see if it can detect the pressure difference from stoppage to a small leak.

So it's time to dive back into the carb. On second examination, there were a few faults, (as mentioned in spam): emulsion tubes gunked, so idle mix setting was wound miles out to compensate (8T, manual suggests 2), pump plunger leather collar was twisted (though it still seemed to be working ok) and a hole in the back of a carb punched out from someone using a too long screw (maybe/probably not me). I stripped, it, checked stuff, cleaned the gunked emul tube, etc, and tested. At first glance the fuel level looked ok, and it was shutting off fuel from the wee header tank OK (I had put some clear tube here, just for diagnosing this), I had a read online of various diagnosing steps online, and fuel level was a common suggestion for this fault; but here was the kicker: float valve badly worn float valve pin holder posts slogged float valve clevis holes slogged each of which would have raised the fuel level in the carb. So combined, fuel level rather too high: So I got the better parts from the other carb, guessed a better float level, and threw it back in. Presto, the fuel haze above the carb is gone, and it'll start and idle without ether, and with just a bit of choke.

..but no. After starting it a few times on ether, it's still not pumping right. I had a good look at a spare, and this one, and thought I'd put good enough parts in it. At one point, it would pump up off the floor, but just now, it will pulse twice, draw up ~1cm, then stop. (parts cleaned, inspected, then discarded): So remembering a comment from someone about the simplicity of gravity feed from a bike, I just put a wee 1L tank on the scuttle, and tried again. Now with a good temporary fuel supply, it's become clear that there's still problems. I'll come back to the fuel pump later. It's spitting lots of fuel out the top of the carb, much like when I changed the motor, then discovered that the exhaust was just blocked with carbon. The front end of the exhaust has been rebuilt, but I still checked it by splitting the just re-assembled system, and passing air from the middle forward, up the exhaust ports, and out the spark plug hole. Then I put the hot air gun into the muffler, passing air backwards. After 5 min, it started making vile smoke that smelled like cancer, and even some amusing pulse rocket noises. Good enough.

Copied from spam: Dai is LoL: ran when parked, just a cracked exhaust. Getting it going again; every system has had a fault(s) clutch bearing dorked, release yoke spring meh and starter bearing, Regulator got bumped, shorted inside the case started blowing ign fuses, while diagnosing, discovered the Alt plug was corroded ignition leads fucked, rotor poor, points needed re-facing, plugs fouled (again) so I also repaired the ND plug cleaner; motor NLA, so adapted the housings, transferred the radial fan to a new motor shaft. Oil pump, drive housing gank, one side dried up, needed a strip, clean, priming fuel lines bad, fuel pump: gasket, springs, diaphram, pump body, one way valves, seal washers all bad, pressure limit valve relief weird, fuel filter marginal. I built a peristaltic pump test jig, bought a pressure/vac gauge to diagnose, built a small pneumatic test jig Carb: emulsion tubes gunked, so idle mix setting was miles out to compensate, pump plunger twisted, float valve clevis holes slogged, float valve worn, float valve pin holder posts slogged; so wrong fuel level in the carb rather a lot too high; and a hole in the back of a carb punched out from someone using a too long screw (maybe/probably not me). Fuel return line blocked, stops me setting up a small remote fuel tank and using an updated fuel pump type (for now). 2:1 manifold cracked (repaired), exhaust flange threads wrong pitch, bolts need specific lengths reed valves leaking (WiP) gasket sets wrong sizes.... I back-fed the 1/2 choked muffler with a hot air gun, and after 5 minutes it started making pulse jet noises, and awful smoke (even by 2T enthusiast standards) that smelled like cancer. I'll still need to deal with the rust in a rim to get the next warrant, and it right had fender panel got dented by the shop last warrant... Key still fucked, don't care. All the usual stuff you OS guys deal with, I've been slow getting through that lot because busy/sick/fambily maintenance issues. It's pretty amazing how well it was running, really, and I haven't even burned it down once. Such a satisfying hobby

Holy crap, VCC swap meat in 2 weeks

Coffee grindr is on the fritz. The microswitch has a weirdo nubly bit on the end thingy. If the local agent can't supply part (not listed) or switch Manufacturer Part Number, then I'ma slam an inductive proximity sensor in there (no moving parts). /solve problem forever!