h4nd

I, ah, may have dropped muffins in to the crew at AppCo. You know, because muffins make cars go betterer.

The lump above is still on the bench, other life things have needed doing. Then on Friday, during lots of urgent jobs, the throttle cable let go as I was leaving Jaycar. I scooted around a quick 180 on the remaining momentum, and a nice tradie, helped me push it into Appco, the trade autoparts place right there. They were great about it, let me fill one of their carparks for the rest of the day (they looked busy AF). The chick at the counter gave me a mobile mechanics number, and I sicced him on to it while I did urgent stuff. Vinny managed to cram the job in during a busy day for him; also noticed and replaced the clutch cable while he was at it, and did a bang on job of adjusting up the new cables. God jerb! Pretty good outcome really. This engine still feels like it's leaking in air at idle / over run, but I closed off the 2T oil by 1/2 turn (was too oil rich) and the idle air circuit 1/2t, and it's now acceptable enough until I get time to swap the crab. So, looking down the back of the motor (my tuning notes for later):

Hi new users, If you're on mobile and can't see the signatures, thread for places to get Kei / Fellow parts is here:

Have a go. If it doesn't work reliably, have a friend with an oscilloscope check it for correct voltages / impedance matching / polarity etc or just use TAI so the points last waaaay longer.

Oh yeah, "Device Manager" is a good place to find which port an Arduino is on, look in "Ports (COM & LPT)" section (plug and unplug to get clear which, if you have like 8 attached...) Also, CH340 clones can mess up OS sleep (especially laptops) and reboots for OS updates. Un plug them after session to avoid hassles.

I tend to run serial at 115200, just for less lag. Have used megabit OK on some devices. Serial.begin(115200);

I've been chipping away at that corroded boat anchor motor. Bits of it were OK (starter fine, alt could be ok) but the carbs had inhaled water for years, so lots of the motor is junk. I was quite interested in getting the distributor assy off it (have disassembled most of it) but I think the cog / gear wheel at the bottom of the shaft may be corroded solid. I haven't been able to split the engine cases to see in there, even with all the bolts out. I may just give up on it soon. I had hoped to have a spare to match the spare engine I have.

Looks perfect, I could use about 2 tpblsp for my ND abrasive plug cleaner gadget.

I have ~20 years digital photos across cameras, videocams, windows, linux, iPhone, iMac, Android, google-photos etc (includes some cars, oddly enough). Collating it but keeping albums and other meta-data has been a ball-ache I've been putting off. PickBackMan (paid) looks like the bill. Will update if anyone interested.

Pics

Kei car engine stand:

Calc from pressure and duty cycle? I'd be curious to see that measured on actual, so as to get an idea of how injector calibrations line up (open / shut times). I recall Roman did some work on that?

What colour is the plug?

ArduPilot https://ardupilot.org/dev/index.html I has one (APM ArduCopter 2.8). Also avail for loan (if you get this trash building and wanna try it).

Are the Soarer auto boxes up to that kind of Torque? There's controller kits to make them into Semi-Auto, with control over clutch engagement rates, if that removes enough dullness? Apparently they're strong in the original application, get replaced with manuals, so they're plenty available and cheap ?(disclaimer, info may now be a decade out of date)