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About h4nd

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  1. Have split that into assemblies, and had another go. some observations: It works rather well (6" flames out the oil clagged expansion chamber just now). https://photos.app.goo.gl/t8qnrSrJkiMN4Fev8 The heat gun seems to work well for getting them started, but sometimes needs just a touch of butane into it to ignite the internals (WOOF!) say, about 1 second too much butane trashes the heaters on your heat gun in about 2 seconds (ask me how I know) That crap smells vile! Like creosote. The red band where I presume the internal carbon is burning creeps along the pipe at about 1 foot per 20 min.
  2. Click to make Prius/Leaf owners shudder (video): https://photos.app.goo.gl/uRc2eN1EWPMey9Jp7
  3. Odds of Dai at meeting are down to 50% Just exhaust stuff probably, but time constraints!
  4. I got the cooling system together enough to take the Dai for a test drive. Oh dear. Leaks in the cooling system (annoying but simple), but the fault from the first engine has appeared in the bench (floor) tested engine... !!! I think I have realised a simple problem I've been overlooking all along. No, not that, another one. Pics soon.
  5. Anyone else have that problem where a windows 10 laptop goes back to sleep too fast even when the power settings are changed (happens when using external USB keyboard)? I've found a solution if anyone needs it.
  6. I'm aiming to get the Dai to the next one.
  7. Yeah, so the regular wasn't happening, but 3/4h tonight and that's the points changed, tested and advance set. The old ones were working, but shagged. You can rock the crank by hand, so that makes setting the (static) timing easy. Amusingly, when I took the dizzy out again to move everything around 1/8 turn so I could get the socket back off the retainer bolt (another interfering fastener) #1 and #2 lead positions swapped over. LoL.
  8. Also, have just jumped in here, have not read the earlier posts: Twin screw (Lysholm / IHI) etc compressors make less heat per boost, yes? My understandnig is that they snip off a packet of air at low pressure, squeeze it, the squirt that out on the high pressure side. So it's not pressing againts the high pressure the whole time it's rotataing: overall, less force x distance = less physics-work (joules) = less power (work/time) consumed per boost?
  9. Gonna start a chat thread for the Lotus, so we can nag you into bringing it to the burgermeats?
  10. I've been yarning to a new mate about cars, bikes and so on, it turns out he used to race an RS125 and generally likes two-strokes. He came over Sunday and helped me line up the clutch, and get the motor and transaxle crammed together. In the process, some of the tiny clutch bolts proved to have stretched, and one failed. Being the handy chap he is, he drilled the remainder of the bolt, and noticed it screwed further into the flywheel doing so. So we smacked a cheap Torx driver in there, and problem solved. It wasn't until the next day I saw my set of ezi-out anticlockwise threaded thingies right on the peg-board, looking at me. So, on with the show. Everythings so tightly fitted that not doing everything in a particular order, or missing a bolt means disassembling other sections, or going backwards a couple of steps to re-assemble. E.g, the exhaust can't be bolted to its bracket once the motor and transaxle are together; it just wont clear the front quarter panel to mate up. That took 3/4 hour to drop the other end of the bracket and re-fit (just two bolts) because those bolts also intefere with others. Oil feed lower section, starter and ignition from the chassis (not the test jig), fuel lines, and throttle / choke cable, lube and install the clutch cable means I could start it, and back it up 10 metres, and then foward again into the garage. By Jingo, its a noisy crackle straight off the side of the block. It wouldn't start at first, and sounded like a weak battery. I knew the battery had just come off the charger, so I was confused, until I noticed the hot electrical smell. Yep, I had forgotten the chassis to motor grounding strap for the starter, and all that current was torturing some light guage wire somewhere. Have also changed the water pump for a newer one. I'm now just trying to get at least 1/2h a night done, for steady progress to running again.
  11. OSGCs @EpochNZ and @Bling helped with that problem. Cheers! Now I have this problem: which I can't solve with this other problem: Who says I have a 2T problem? So, to avoid further problems, I ran this up on the floor: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jcPet4fvTR2eTVBs6 No problem. Er, except how to get a now assembled engine into that impossibly tiny hole. Oh and assemble more bits on it...
  12. Your code looks way better than it used to. The rest of the system influences the code you show, so without knowing how the how often this is called, how pins are wired, when previousMicros is updated, what the incoming duty cycle is, and if dwell is set for 10million, it's a bit hard to tell. What is sensorThreshold for, and what is the inPin reading? (Too busy to puzzle it out, pics are good). Hint. You operator order for working out the time is probably correct, but I can never remember the precedences for all the languages, and putting brackets in there can make it explicit / easier to read. Also comments like // found a leading edge going high // trigger after dwell_uS Can also really help. Also, I'm assuming thisng are active high, but don't really know, so there's 2^3 = 8 different ways to think about it to work out what is doing. Pin names can have clues like POINTS_IN_LOW and IGN_OUT_HIGH to help. Keep it up, you're going places.
  13. Remove LED1, install the LED (front end) of an optocoupler like the 817C's used elsewhere in the cct? Keep the wires short (wisted together is good). Use a soft bias on the Arduino (like the input pullup mode, ~50kOhm). Add 1nF on the output for noise reduction. ???? Profit.