sheepers

Triggers for the ecu. I couldn't use the stock 5M dizzy because it sits exactly where number 1 throttle needs to be. So after a bit of indecision and fucking around I decided to run a crank angle sensor off the front pulley. I machined the inside of the pulley to an accurate size then I made a boss to press into the pulley. The pulley is cast so I can't weld anything to it. She's a fucking tight fit in the pulley so it ain't going no place. By pressing this hub into the inside is not affected by the rubber isolation layer which can cause erratic triggering. I'll laser cut a trigger wheel and use it to accurately drill 4 mounting holes. Then all I have to do is mount the sensor off the front of the motor somehow.

Dipstick. I didn't have one with the engine parts and I had to move the location. The 7M Dipstick location is right where the 4M engine mount goes so I had to drill another hole in the block. No drama the boss is cast into the block, just had to drill it. Then I set about modifying a jz Dipstick tube to work. I drilled the hole to big for the jz tube so I had to weld it to build it up then machine it to size. I fluked the size and got it perfect, its a good tap in fit. I cut the stick to length and used the 4m in the crown to get the oil level marks right. Then I put the sump on, probably not for the final time but it's on.

Then I painted it red because that's the first tin of colour I pulled out of the cupboard.

Sump baffle. Anyone who's driven the misery Inducing stock 4M will know that the stock sump baffle setup is a bit shit. You don't even have to be hard on the brakes to get the oil light to flicker on. And besides all that the stock baffle wouldn't fit now anyway. So I made a new one that might work a bit better to keep some oil around the pickup under braking. Let's not kid ourselves and think that acceleration is going to be an issue. It won't. The baffle sits across between the pump and the pickup. The red lines on the block indicate where it sits. Now I'm going to paint it

if you paid yourself a dollar an hour for all the multitudes of fucking around you've done you could afford to just buy a radiator that fits perfectly and does exactly what you want it to do.

Final oil pump and pickup setup. Slotted pump hole to rotate the pump a bit. Dash 10 crossover pipe with a bit taken out of the block to clear the pipe. 7M oil pump pickup raised 8mm to clear the shallower sump and relocated pickup brace.

why do you give away all my secrets? IM NOT GOING TO DO IT NOW.

Sump. After a bit of soaking in evapo-rust it is now the cleanest 4M sump pan on the planet. It doesn't fit thanks to the dash 10 oil feed pipe. Is was fucking close though so I thought if I machined the fitting down as tight as I could get it so there was only a tiny gap between the boss and the nut the sump might clear. It didn't. Like you could do up the sump bolts and it would work but it's still touching the pipe so I'll have to do something else

Steering wheel controls all wired and working. Everything on the left of the wheel works as it should. Right side is for dash and whatnot so there is nothing to connect they to. Fucking stoked.

Old compressor vs New compressor

not that i know of sorry.

incoming old man sharn, in about 1998 a mate of mine was working for urgent couriers in AK and for some fucked up reason that only coke filled courier company execs can answer urgent couriers bought a GTIR and gave it to my mate as his courier car. it was branded and all that but he drove it all day every day. it took me for quite a few rips in it and fuck me was that thing fast. when your bench mark was a 4M powered shitbox the gtir was light years faster. why did they think that was a good idea? fuck knows but it gave a bunch of mid 20s jokers a new understanding of what a turbo car was.

I think I figured out why the air bleed timer wasn't working. Transistors are supposed to explode yes?

I increased the pressure a bit then left it over night It has lost exactly 0 psi which I'm quite happy about. Now the next thing I need to set up is a drier type thing and some decent air feeds in the shed but I think I'll wait to plumb it into the new workshop when it gets built

I got a Teflon lined hose and plumbed everything up. It works. The switch turns it off at 110 psi so I'm going to up that a bit because why have something explode at 110psi when your could have it explode at 140psi. The thing I haven't finished yet is the purge valve. I have a bracket for it I just need to wire it in, I'll probably do that now. Anywho, it works.

@cletus came over yesterday for a visit and remarked how the compressor looked bigger in real life than on the Internet so I commissioned this portrait with the hope of conveying the size of the compressor accurately.

Nick the sparky gave me a hand and we got the right plugs for the air bag and figured out the steering wheel controls for the stereo. I've got to get the right connector to connect the radio to the steering wheel output but that shouldn't be too much of a drama. Once that's done I can program the radio and heypresto! Steering wheel controls that work.

And now it has wheels.

Need help. The pipe that goes from the compressor to the tank is to short. The fittings are M33 x 1.5 and the tube is about 35mm aluminium. I've seen some jokers using a nylon braided flex line which I'm not sure about. This pipe gets hot which is why they're copper or aluminium. Having said that the pipe from the compressor to the tank in my MS51 is nylon and it gets plenty hot. 10 years without and drama. So yea what do you reckon? Anyone got experience with a flex line straight off the compressor? Tell me what you think.

It works.

So I took the tank to get pressure tested and it had a crack where the motor plate is welded on. I decided to see what was available on the tard and a perfect (almost) tank was for sale for a price less than another pressure test and paint so I bought it. Is 300L, made in 2014 and comes with a pressure switch and some fittings I don't have. The only problem is the inlet port from the compressor to the tank is in the middle. I don't have a pipe long enough to plumb it. I need a new pipe for that, probably about 900 long. I'll try to mount everything into the tank today and get it running without the pipe. Let's see how far I get.

Shit also I forgot to say the red thing up there ^^ weights more than the sun

then, to make it go faster, i painted the electric motor red.

once id gotten the thing apart i had a look inside the tank and it wasn't great, it also wasn't terrible but yea. im sure there are many, many tanks being filled with compressed air every day that look way worse but still i wasn't keen on having it explode in my face. so i took the tank to get pressure tested. the joker said it was too rusty for him to certify but that's cool with me, i don't need any documentation, i just need to know its safe. so its at the testing place now. once its tested i will get the tank blasted and then ill paint it some colour, probably whatever colour i have enough of to do the job. then i had a go at fixing the belt shroud. i had to make a bunch of metal brackets to bridge all the breaks i could and bolt it all back together. I also had to make a big aluminium bit to fill in a huge piece that was missing completely. when its a whole unit its pretty strong, ill make a bracket to support the far end of it (the whole thing hangs off the 4 bolts around the crank spigot and thats it) once i put the thing back together on the tank.

this is the old compressor from work. its been on a pallet kicked around from place to place for the last 10 years or so. its Italian, 44CFM 7HP 3 phase with a 270L tank. and because of that its fucked in many ways. the pressure switch is smashed off, the inlet filter is completely gone, the shroud around the belts is badly broken, the wiring for this thing is all up the shit also the electric motor shroud is all smashed in. it hasn't run in many years and when i picked it up from work it wouldn't even turn. i took it home, waterblasted it and pulled it to bits.