sheepers

As you can see the chassis and under floor is really dirty and had lots of surface rust that you would expect from a 53 year old car. I have really, really pushed the boat out and i took the body off the chassis. I stripped all the rust, dirt and crud of the chassis and bottom of the car then I painted it all with an epoxy primer. I've been working late into the early hours every day for two weeks to get this done. In a completely unrelated story my neighbour owns a blasting company that does underside blasting and painting of cars and trucks, and I highly recommend him. The company is Blast All LTD. Toby is a fucking gc and I've seen his work and is top spec.

All fixed!

i did anything. removal of diff was fairly straight forward. oil smelled like Beelzebubs armpit but that's normal. bearing removal also went fairly smoothly. having a press and a good bearing puller made the job easy. the pinion bearings looked OK until i gave them a proper clean then you can see the pitting in the outer races. new bearings and seals installed and back together. i checked the contact patch and it all looked great. on the bench the pinion break away torque seemed way to high but with the housing in the car it kind of feels normal so i dunno. ill do some actual science tomorrow and double check it. getting the diff back in the car was a fucking cunt. some arsehole narrowed the housing so the diff only just, just, fits and fuck me what a fight to get it in. but its in. that same arsehole made the oil fill plug all but impossible to access, the only way to get it out was to loosen the rear bolts and slide the diff forward. how the living fuck i've got oil in this thing in the past i have no idea. so tomorrow its put some oil in it, bolt all the turny bits back on and finished. probably.

Fixing the diff. R200 R32 GTR bearing set. The lip seal is a 35 55 11/15.5 seal. Updates to follow once I actually do anything.

cheers man, my mate has one its just a question of him getting down to mine to test the motor.

i think the motor is about 7kw, the VSD is 7.5kw. currently the problem is that the VSD got repaired (at massive expense) and i reinstalled it and the motor will only turn a few very slow revolutions before the VSD gives an overload error. (we have tried changing every variable in the program to no gain) the error code says over current or short to ground, the way the spindle rotates (kind of stop start, as if one winding is not working) points towards a possible issue with the motor. we tested the motor windings resistance and they were all the same but we didn't have have an insulation tester. thats next on the list - confirm that the motor does not have a short then go from there. man i miss my lathe. so many things i need to make........

Hi. My lathe is broken, has been for some time. The 40 year old VSD shit itself. It's been 4 months trying to fix it. It's been fixed, allegedly, but lathe still no go. Who gives a shit I hear you ask? Well, ordinarily I would have turned a new end for the water neck and welded that on instead of trying to fix it with weld. But when you don't have a lathe you can't do that. OK cool. Anywho i made dis

in all of my searching that is the only time ive seen 660 listed. thanks man.

I found a water neck that has the "pipe round the back of the head" style heater feed. Only problem is that is fucked. The pitting on the outlet was pretty next level. I figured i had nothing to loose by trying to weld it up. So I gave it a go. It was not easy. But I fixed it. Now I'll make a new water feed pipe out of stainless steel for the 4M.

Ok, so the engine bay/firewall is not painted body colour. Neither are the inside of the doors. Or the boot. I may be a bit slow but I'm not that dense. Trust me when I say again, finding a piece of original paint to scan is not an option.

i was being facetious. the paint on this car, as can be clearly seen from space, is completely totally fucked and no part of it even remotely resembles the original colour.

and do you think the paint on the crown is in a good enough state to get a decent match off?

that colour (T602) is a flat green like this.

good to hear its treating you well. regarding the lift kit, one thing you might want to consider is the factory springs for the 185s are worse than useless. they all sag in the arse and unless your buying new genuine Toyota springs for it anything you get will be either pre- fucked or no different to what you have. the factory rear springs are really soft, like comically so, you cant put anything in the back without bottoming the diff on to the bumps and if you want to have the most terrifying ride of your life then driving with a load in the bum and the diff on the bumps is as close as you'll get. just my 2c.

yea cheers for that. ill see if i can get any matches from those codes every paint suppliers website will tell you that they can supply 660 touch up paint but they dont actually know what 660 is so i strongly doubt that link would actually yield the correct paint.

LITTLE HELP PLEASE! im trying to find the paint code to get some of the original colour for this car. the code on the build plate is 660. that should be a metallic green. i cant find anything that references 660 as a paint code, nor can i find any modern equivalent paint codes that might be close. if anyone can shed some light on a crossover code for 660 or a code that is a 1972 Toyota crown colour i would be most appreciative. thanks team.

Minor update. I've decided not to put the 5mg back in the car. It was running a Link G1 which was OK, it ran, but I'm just not a fan of something so basic and so old. So, spend 3k on new link, wiring tuning etc? No. Not when I've got a "good" complete 4M sitting there. The 4M came out of @toy-mota's car and is probably OK. I have a brand new carb and some other stuff so that's whats going back in.

These two buttons now turn the volume up and down on the radio. Big whoop.

1uz runs well over 100 psi whilst cold and around 80 most other times. 90 is good. Send it.

they're like crabs, they're just shedding their old exoskeleton and growing a fresh new outer casing.

yea, i knew about the whole ocean thing and was expecting bad things. but they just aint there.

Did a bit more disassemble. All the bolts for the fuel tank broke but everything else seems happy. The car really is in good shape, there's a little bit of rust in the passenger sill but fuck all else.

What time are you picking it up?

Motor out. Makes cleaning and painting it easier. But also mainly because of our old friend Mr water pipe. shockingly the one in the motor is rusty and fucked. it did have a screw holding one of the holes closed so that's good. I'll make a new one out of stainless. Aldo does anyone want a W40? Because I don't.