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About ~Slideways~

  • Birthday 21/09/1983

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  1. Got it out last night, didn't need to remove the alternator in the end. I thought it would get in the way but was able to move the engine forwards enough. Used my transmission jack, its rated to 500kg but I was a bit worried about balancing it. I guessed where the centre of the weight would be and didn't quite get it right so it leaned over a bit... Reminds me of a 16v smallport 4age.
  2. Plan is/was to take the engine and trans out the bottom, with the loom all still attached so I can swap it into the 'parts' lancer (with a manual box). Found the ecu location, which is under the dash on the tunnel. No real problems accessing it to unplug the loom. Nice work Mitsi. Loom is easy to disconnect under the carpet up to the firewall where it then goes behind the heater motor. Nice. Can't get to the engine side of the loom big rubber grommet thing since the ABS unit is in the way, tried anyway but could not. So had to disconnect the brake lines and the ABS unit. Not too bad I guess. Now I can pull the loom through a bit, but it doesn't seem like the plugs can fit behind the heater bits. Hmmm bugger, maybe it I undo the mounting points for the heater stuff? Undo the nuts at the bottom, can only see one above the blower unit. Can barely get a spanner on it, spent 20min on trying to undo this one nut. Maybe I have to remove part of the blower to get to it...realise its all one unit unlike most other stuff I've dealt with and there is no way I can get to the other top mounting nuts to remove the whole thing. Don't want to disconnect he AC lines... Not so great Mitsi... So I have another go at trying to get the plugs behind the Fan unit. Then I notice/can feel another part of the loom going to the A piller. Oh maybe that's what is stopping it. Found where that goes and disconnect. Nice...maybe now. Nope still can't get it out. OK fck it. NOW I CAN GET THE LOOM OUT. Quite like the way they've mounted the cluster plugs so it stays in place though. So... yay Mitsi? Not pictured: remove radiator, AC pump (tied off to the side), auto cooler lines, air box, loom connections to fuse box inside and in engine bay. That's as far as I got. But I think all I need to do now is remove the Alternator, shifter lines and two fuel lines then it should be ready to come out the bottom while still attached to the crossmember. Also, never seen one of these stickers. They would have had to remove the cluster to do this:
  3. Made a start on getting the 4g15 out of the Lancer. Put it on the hoist, which involved moving 6 cars and a trailer Drained the auto trans fluid. Drained the engine oil. Looked real black but no flakes: The transmission magnetic drain plug itself had a bunch of crap on it. It doesn't really matter though since I am not using it. Unbolted the knuckles from the struts and that gave just enough room to pull the drive shafts out. Not in the photo but compared to the manual drive shafts I am pretty sure they are the same length. I was hoping that would be the case so I have spares. A photo of my oil collection as well as the 4wd'y bits. Rear 4wd bits, there is some surface rust to clean up but overall the underside is in good condition. Even the rails are pretty damn straight. Tiny exhaust is tiny: That's as far as I got and it was too late at night to cut the exhaust bolts off which were seized on. Plan is to drop it out the bottom with the loom still attached. I also purchase a whole other Lancer which has a Mivec 4g92 conversion, bit rough but it was a good price. No certor wof but has a 'covid reg'. Conversion looks to have been done in 2010. Originally it was a 4g15, so I plan to take the one out of the 4wd lancer, fix the seals etc and swap it into the 'parts' lancer to sell and get some money back. The parts Mivec lancer apparently isn't running right. I wasn't too worried since I will be rebuilding the engine anyway. But there are some parts I want to keep off of it, like the momo wheel (worn out), mivec engine, mivec ecu, white face cluster, side skirts and maybe the suspension. Looks like they are king springs but not sure if they are compatible with the 4wd suspension. I had taken it for a drive around the block a few times, it has blown exhaust manifold gasket at the bottom flange where it joins 2-1. And it had previously run out of fuel so I had to bring what I had which was only about 4L. But it started first pop etc and didn't look to overheat. Clutch feels worn but it shifted fine. Oh and it has THESE (never mind the silver painted plastic trim):
  4. It is pretty tall yeah, but being aluminium it doesn't feel all that heavy, well compared to others I can remember. There is a quite a bit of empty space too. The 4g93 1.8 block is a taller block than the 1.6 so it will definitely be taller than a 4g93t like in a GSR. The hybrid 1.8 with this head has been done before so I'm sure it won't be too bad... maybe some bonnet ribs need removing... I guess I'll see!
  5. Have wet sanded about half of the car with 400 grit. Coming out good. Took a break from breaking my back to have a go at removing the weld in the exhaust manifold flange. Tried a few methods but a tungsten bit and a rotary tool ended up working best, still a bit of a slog. I really rate these cheap Ozito rotary tools, I've worked it hard and it is still good. I've had TWO dremels just stop working randomly, not even working them hard. Opened up port versus the one with the weld still blocking it:
  6. Not sure which project thread this belongs to but the 1.6 Mivec engine for my Lancer comes with quite nice extractors from factory. 4 into 2. I don't have the lower section, which must take it from 2 to 1. They don't look like press mends like the horrible Mazda one. I have the MX5 B6 exhaust flange cut off (still with factory weld bead inside the ports), comparing this to the Mivec manifold the spacing is very close! This is with the remains of the cut off mx5 tubes basically sitting inside mivec ports. Could possibly cut off the mitsi flange and weld on the mazda one. Will offer it up to the engine bay when I get a chance. The design is MUCH better than the Mazda one, maybe it'll be worth modifying it to fit?
  7. Oh I wonder if maybe the oil pump gear is broken, I've read that can happen on 4G's. A place in Malaysia makes billet upgrades. Probably worth doing.
  8. Out of interest I checked the bearings and they all look ok? Took a piston out and no damage to the ring lands etc. The rods are TINY! Also interesting that it has piston oil squirters built into the rods which is pretty cool. So I'm not sure why this engine had it's sump taken off and oil pick up removed and left off? Maybe one of the other rods is bent? Doesn't really matter though. Just interesting to see.
  9. Found a 4g92 Mivec engine with apparent spun bearing. It doesn't even have the sump but the main caps are still there. Only want the head and intake so bought it and got it sent down to Wellington. It's missing the Mivec cam cover trim thing unfortunately. The cam design is really cool. I have recently learned that MIVEC is not MIVEC. The early stuff like this is basically VTEC where there is a 'race' cam lobe that is activated with oil pressure and a solenoid. I saw someone claiming they made 200kw atw on 12psi with a 4g93 with this head, don't know what turbo but it seems like it is easy to make power with a head that breaths well. The GSR 1.8 head apparently is not a good breathing head. The later Mivec like the Evo 9 is variable cam timing (I am pretty sure anyway), so less 'aggressive' I guess. Also the 4g69 etc I am pretty sure is just variable cam timing rather than vtec style cam lobs like this. So it looks like the 4g63 never had what I would call 'real' mivec, only variable cam timing. I'm hoping this 4g92 head will act like those Honda Vtec turbo's which make big power because they basically have a high lift cam profile in the higher rpms. Really interesting design. The cams sit in a separate cradle. and the head has two halves. Here it is removed: And the lower half of the head, it's actually quite clean, the photo's make it looks like it is all coked up but it's just a textured casting: It has super long spark plug tubes because the head is really tall due to the cam cradle design. Weirdly a normal spark plug socket won't fit, the tube is crimped about half way down (maybe due to assembly pushing in the tubes?), I had to grind down a spare one to be thinner walled. The head is REALLY tall, this is a big 550ml crc can next to it and the head is still taller: Valves a bit carboned up but otherwise look good: Not that it matters but the cylinder walls still have cross hatch markings: Really high compression factory pistons!
  10. Finished block sanding the high fill primer with guide coat. Now sprayed a few coats of primer surfacer. Came out looking awesome. Still need to wet sand the whole thing again with 400 grit.
  11. And a bit more room after putting up these shelves.
  12. Sanding like a beach. Last few low spots to fill last night, feel like maybe I'm going overboard a bit but on the other hand I can't bring myself to not fill these low spots after all this work. Front is looking good now. There were a couple of low spots in the centre which is now good. Next will be to prime it again with a more thinned down mix. Then maybe wet sand 400 grit, depends how well the primer goes on.
  13. Out of interest I compression tested the 4G15 fully expecting it to be stuffed. It has 349,000km's on the odometer and is leaking out out of the rear main seal so much I need a collector tray. Took the first spark plug out and thankfully it is very well lubricated and submerged in oil: The other 3 were dry. And to my surprise it has really good compression...like WAY higher than I thought. My compression tester usually reads quite low. 240psi?! Across all 4! Then I remembered the previous owner said that the owner before him had changed the headgasket. I wonder if the head has been skimmed to hell? Otherwise, it runs super quietly. All it really needs is some cam cover gaskets and that rear main seal and it'd be a healthy engine. It seem far too healthy for a 350,000km engine. Maybe it's not the original one? In other news, I have possibly found a Mivec head if it all works out. Then I'll probably get a short block from Pick a Part to put some aftermarket rods and pistons in.
  14. Man, you should really get a slide hammer.
  15. Nice, thanks for the info. I've seen that name before I think. A 1600 mivec could work, but I guess I'd be giving up some response. Thing is a 1.8 block could be had for $100 so makes sense to go with that since I'd have to put stronger rods etc into the 1600 as well anyway. I've had a few 4age turbo's in fwd and it was great fun. 220kw was amazingly responsive with a td05. That was 920kg though and this will be 12-1300 kg minimum?
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