~Slideways~

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About ~Slideways~

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  • Birthday 21/09/1983

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  1. ~Slideways~

    Brake disc machining - cost?

    Years ago I had some machined while still on the car, they had a fancy machine to do it. Recently I asked the wof guy to check the brakes on my wifes car because I could feel a wobble under braking. They were a bit warped, he reckoned better off going new because warped ones are likely to warp again quickly after machining. I guess it makes sense if they are unevenly heated when warped?
  2. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Lol yeah it makes sense, I'll replace it with something better when it comes to it. The magazine was a solid paper block when it dried so chucked it. Bit of a tragedy not getting to see 1980's boobies.
  3. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Here you go: http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/linktoV6.htm EDIT: I'll try again: http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/Cad/index.htm
  4. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Purvis Eureka

    Got some very useful bits. The roof is a life saver, the glass is cracked but I knew that already. Also got a front lower section, rear lower section, the top front and rear which is supposed to be one piece but that bit has been cut in half and missing big parts. It was going to be lengthened and put on a ladder chassis but that project didn't go ahead. I mainly need the roof and the bonnet. But the other parts can be used as a mold to fix my front section. Also got a new bonnet and rear engine cover. Looks like the vw engine type cover.
  5. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    Took the axle and leaves off, jesus its tiny versus the Toyota t series one: Then played car Tetris: Just fits:
  6. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Looking at it, it would be a pretty big job to fit a fwd subframe in there. It has its merits though since I have the swing arm transaxle which isn't great for handling. But it would make accessing an east west 'fwd' engine quite hard since it would be much further forwards towards the front of the car. It might even interfere with the rear firewall behind the seats as well as having to move the fuel tank. Makes the most sense to make use of the beetle transaxle, even though it apparently only handles about 150hp or so. Maybe a 200hp light weight v6 would be ok. Lots of options to upgrade it to handle more, still a 4 speed though. ------------------------------------------ Not really sold on the Subaru engine for some reason, but it makes sense to be able to use the Subaru gearbox. Probably an expensive job to rebuild the gbox with the reversed crown wheel and pinion. ------------------------------------------ Does anyone know if the vw bus/kombi has the same 4 bolt bellhousing pattern as the beetle/type 1? I found a dxf file for an adaptor plate for the KLZE to a 'bus' transaxle but my vw knowledge is pretty limited.
  7. ~Slideways~

    Re-powering newish car with old motor?

    I think you might need to change your screen name to the Riddler lol
  8. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Cheers (well I guess that's cheers to Richard Oakes for designing it haha). It's got a ford 1600 in it now but using the type 1 beetle transaxle, with the swing axles. If I was to redo it I'd want the 'bus' transaxle and IRS. No idea how hard that would be to find in nz. EDIT: yep radiator in the rear, off to the side and fed from the side air ducts. Subaru is an option, never really been a fan of the warble though, but a flat four makes sense! There is even a reversed subaru gearbox option to fit but its big money, something like $5k AUD plus shipping. Crazy money. I think you can just buy the reversed crown wheel and pinion actually. Right now I want to see if I can get the Ford engine running, so far so good. Maybe all it needs is spark.
  9. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    If its possible then I would do this to start with. Unless the kent needs too much money. I feel like I've done my dash with 4age's, but maybe.
  10. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    ...interesting thought. I've had 3.5hrs sleep but this is turning the dead hamster in my head. EDIT: the KLZE wouldn't work because it would sit too far forward, but possibly a fwd inline 4. Suspension would make things harder with certifying I reckon. Better engine access by keeping the VW transaxle (or similar).
  11. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Totally depends on whether I can get paper work for it. If I can, then I might be able to get it on the road based on how it was built. It's unlikely though, unless there are declaration papers. Which were probably with the last owner, not the guy that had them built. But yeah, the shorter block length would be good, I would be able to fit a bigger radiator at the back. Currently the kent takes up all of the length right to the back panel. I'd need an adaptor, I know ford and mazda worked together but I seriously doubt there is any similarity with the common ford inline 4 bellhousings of that era. Also need to think about what the transaxle can handle plus that it is a 4 speed. A porsche box would be good but have to change lots.
  12. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Purvis Eureka

    Haven't heard anything from Stephen Fleming but it's not really a rush and she did say he is very busy. Maybe I'll ring in a week or two. Tried cranking it over with the wifes car running and connected the to battery cables at the front of the Eureka. Touch cut wires of dash and it turns over with the starter (previously had battery jumper leads directly on the starter). Still sluggish, so maybe the starter needs a rebuild. Tested and found no spark, had it turning over with wifes car and spare battery connected to the coil. I'll take the distributor out and see what I find. Having silly thoughts of an all aluminium KLZE 2.5L v6 and ITB's sticking out the bonnet. Or maybe bike carb's on the Kent after getting it running on the DCOE 42. Depends on whether I need to go through a cert or not (what paper work I can get, if any). The V6 just suits the car I reckon. But the kent is 'original'....but heavy and half the power.
  13. ~Slideways~

    Slideways' Purvis

    Cheers, re: work I am currently waiting for the outcome of the feedback period. I am one of quite a few effected and the decisions seem to be being made by people who should, but don't know what my job involves. My feedback appeared to get a reaction of 'uh oh...forgot about that' and a lot of people have been saying, ''but who will be doing X, Y and Z??" Small possibility I will still be employed in some form. There is a pretty good redundancy pay but I have two little kids, mortgage and a wife to pay for. So if I wasn't able to find a job for long enough the redundancy pay disappears. If it wasn't in my contract to have redundancy pay, things would be quite sh1t. In saying that, in the time I've been there, this must be the 6th round of redundancies I've been through but the first where I've been given the letter. So it's been a good run I guess.
  14. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Purvis Eureka

    Got the roof off, you can see how damaged it is. I reckon it must have hit something while open or possibly someone tried to pry it open from the front? I have almost all of the bits to fix it but I am also hoping to get a whole 'new' roof. Started cleaning out the crap from the floor, lots of broken glass. Not safety glass either, its in fckn everything, even the air vents and gearshift holes: It's all dry inside now, so pulled out the fcked carpet (classy 70's blue loop carpet): Found a key! (and some rust in the floor): Tried the key in the ign key hole but it snapped in there...cool. Coolcoolcool. That's annoying but it refused to turn with the other key as well which was also rusty. So no real loss, I was thinking I'd need to replace the barrel anyway. Also found this magazine behind the drivers seat under the carpet, lol: The steering wheel is weirdly bent: Cut the ign key wires because I wanted to see what would happen with power. Not much, although I can get a click from a relay in the back which must be the starter motor. There is a crude fuse box which is a bit stuffed so might explain why I don't get much happening. So out of interest I put some fuel in the carb, plugged in the coil that was inside the car and connected it to battery positive. Tried to crank over with the jumper leads straight on the starter but nothing happened. Think that spare battery is stuffed. Took the battery out of the 200sx and tried with that. OK so engine is cranking over again, but pretty sluggish and no sign of it wanting to start.... that was kind of optimistic. Ran out of time to do anything more so haven't checked to see if there is any spark. Have chucked the battery on charge and will see if it cranks over any better tomorrow. Maybe the starter is just tired or the bores are rusty, who knows
  15. ~Slideways~

    unretard me about turbos

    The basic rule I've learned is that a good turbo for a diesel is roughly the same as one for a petrol engine half the size. So roughly 2L turbo's. You can get away with bigger turbo's and bigger exhaust housing sizes by fitting a bigger diesel pump, you could run a big Holset HX35 with a small exhaust housing with a big 12mm diesel pump and it'll spool well. But in your case (and mine) with the standard 10mm pump, something from a 2L turbo petrol suits it well. Mine is the same wheel specs as an Evo 3 with the the TD05 16G (big G). EDIT: Its a Kinugawa which has options for 6cm, 8cm and 10cm exhaust housings. I used the 8cm but the 6cm would spool faster then choke it a bit at the top end. A VF8 from a Subaru would work well and could maybe find at Pick a Part. I wonder if you could even fit a cheap common TD04 from a Subaru or Mitsi (different exhaust flange) then later fit a TD05 with the same flange?