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About ~Slideways~

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  • Birthday 21/09/1983

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  1. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    Might have found an ae95 axle, will hear back over the weekend. They are 1325mm wide, drum face to drum face, which would mean it would stick out roughly to here: So it would work if using fwd offset wheels (easy enough being 4x100) and some flares. Or some nice negative offset alloys and bigger flares. Then I'd change the front to 4x100 using gen 2 Civic knuckles and have disk brakes too. Would need to have spacers on the front though. Hopefully having a look at a bike engine soon because I can't help myself.
  2. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    Good suggestion, I never knew these were solid axle! This random TM auction was they are 3.5 or 3.3 which is better than most but I need closer to 3:1 due to little wheels. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/diffs-axles/listing-1938017278.htm
  3. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    Just found another option, AE95 Carib 4wd has a 2.929:1 solid T-series axle. AE95 Solid Axle (coils) T462: 6.7", 2.92:1, 2 pinions, Open4x100 1325mm Drum Being T-series an after market LSD is available. It's 4x100 with drum brakes but that's ok. Especially if I use Civic 4x100 brakes at the front. Does anyone know of a 4wd Carib AE95 wrecking?
  4. ~Slideways~

    For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

    A few options for a motorbike engined car 1. Either an MX5 rear subframe narrowed (but keeping stock suspension components/dimensions) and using mx5 diff converted to sprocket drive (mid engine chain drive) and shortened half shafts (hoping to just cut and respline if possible) 2. The same subframe using an IRS holden diff (normal prop shaft to front) and modified half shafts to mx5 rear brakes (maybe respline would work, maybe weld...dont like idea of welding) . 3. Civic diff and brakes converted to sprocket using in fwd format but need to shorten shafts. If that makes sense?
  5. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    The main goal is having a very light car with a high reving motorbike motor/gearbox. It won't be a track car, I have another car for that but I'd want it to not be a pig to drive and be fun on twisty roads. I originally thought about building a Lotus 7 replica for a similar weight. For a leaf sprung live axle, its the most simple to start off with except for making it 4 stud. But there is fabrication in mounts and custom making a sway bar etc versus going IRS. The MX5 rear subframe would be perfect since it is a flat floor area, they quite commonly used in kit cars now that I look into it. The guy who built the VFR800 N600 used an mx5 rear but had to modify suspension arms to move the shock mount so I don't know if this could be certified here. A live axle would need the floor cut for diff centre clearance but that'd be easy enough. I've got to think about the front end as well, the current location of the steering rack on the firewall leaves lots of room for another engine but it is a very basic steering to strut setup. So ideally I'd want to do something there too. I like the idea of using something more modern like a civic maybe, using the strut, subframe, steering rack, brakes etc etc. It would probably mean less room for an engine... which leads me to mid mounting. Edit, maybe the front from Honda City?
  6. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    Interesting point about the side load, alternatively I could try the idea of changing the crown wheel to a sprocket like the fwd version.
  7. ~Slideways~

    Battery chargers

    Try change the battery in your multimeter, when they get low they read wrong. I had this once and google told me its because the internal battery voltage is used as a reference, or something like that. I had that with an old 4age alternator, read 18v. Changed Alternator, same thing. Turned out to be the multimeter battery even though the low voltage wasn't indicated.
  8. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    I actually had a similar idea with a rear/mid mounted engine using a sprocket directly on an unmodified IRS diff. Such as using a complete MX5 rear end with shortened half shafts. It would be ideal with a vfr800 if I can fit it in there. Interesting idea having a sprocket on the driveshaft... hmmm. Packaging is always an issue in a small space but it open up some options.
  9. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    Yep tiny hole saw, guess I'll see how they go. I do need to keep both sides in some places.
  10. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    It would be pretty hard to get it to do as low as 4000rpm without running big diameter tyres, its more of a not going crazy doing a million revs while doing 100kph than matching what the bike engine donor would have done. I've started cutting out rust on this thing now and have bought some spot weld drill bits.
  11. ~Slideways~

    Gav’s Honda N360

    Thoughts on leaf spring live axles?
  12. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    I mean Escorts and Rx's can handle well with leaf springs...
  13. ~Slideways~

    Gav's Honda N360

    I went to Pick a Part and had a look at some live axles, the wheel base of the N360 is 1295 according to Wikipedia I'm sure that is with the skinny wheels though. Since it has leaf spring rear it's the easiest option for rwd if I go that direction. Its also the most horse and cart option handling wise but it's still be a rwd Kei car. The 4 stud makes it easier wheel wise. Suzuki Carry: Found a 1999 Suzuki Carry with coil spring rear live axle, its was about 1385mm. Could work width wise, but the diff ratio is going to be in the 5:1 range I'd bet. I need around 3:1 due to the small wheels, even then it'll be doing 5-6000rpm at 100kph. But it'll be able to rev to 13000rpm depending on the bike engine. Sounds bad but my old standard AE86 used to do almost 4000rpm at 100kph. VN Commodore: 3:08:1 is common, its a straight tube type so is easier to shorten. According to this diagram you can get it down to 1325mm without custom half shafts. But then I have 5x120 to deal with. Maybe I could redrill the stub axles and use 4 stud discs. Holden IRS diff in a MX5 subframe. Use a 3.08:1 Holden diff, cut up mx5 subframe. This would make it easier to fit a starter motor reverse since the diff doesn't move. This is much more complicated though, cutting floor, coil spring mounting points etc. That guy did similar with the VFR800 one, using some other diff that wouldn't be common in NZ. --------------------------------- Leaf spring rear is by far the easiest, also solves the problem of the probably stuffed standard rear drums and hard to get bits. How 'bad' is a leaf spring rear going to be for handling though? It's not going to be a race car 10/10ths thing, its mainly going to be a fun road car.
  14. ~Slideways~

    For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

    I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work.
  15. ~Slideways~

    Car photography locations in the greater Wellington region? ??

    Man I like those mesh wheels on the crown, that's the kind of thing I'd like to widen for one of my cars.