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About ~Slideways~

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  • Birthday 21/09/1983

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  1. It looks very close, I think there can be a difference in how much the pulley sticks out between versions. I don’t know if that is due to the pulley itself or the mounting face for the pulley. Will need to confirm. Guess I’ll just give them the number plate to match it lol.
  2. The plan today was to make up some temporary radiator hoses to get it running. Managed to hack out the broken fitting, will buy a new water pump anyway but wanted to do some testing today. Hacked: I then found a fitting that worked, put some rtv in it since the threads were damaged. Again, just temporary. I was going to block off the hose since it is just for the heater But thought I should loop it to the other end. Pulled off the hose from the intake manifold and found it was completely blocked with white powder. It was rock solid, had to drill it out. Ended up having to take the intake manifold off and found it was blocked in the head too. I must be some kind of long term reaction with the brass fitting? That oval recess above the stud in the centre is meant to be open and is blocked with more white powder. This stuff came out easy though. Can now see into the head with no blockage. Need to buy a new intake manifold gasket now. Checked out the intake ports and they look like they could really do with some basic porting. It’s not even uniformly round lol. I’ll compare the gasket to the intake port and manifold runners to see.
  3. I'd love to hear it with some trumpets, kind of weird that it looks like it never had any. Who stocked the water pump? Kind of assumed not many would anymore.
  4. Thanks, although this seems wildly optimistic lol. Cheap fuel for the other car though, which hopefully doesn't have issues on the dyno.
  5. Brass I'd guess, based on the green-ness of the powder. I'm going to try fit a hacksaw blade in there to cut it into two pieces and hopefully not damage the thread.
  6. Cheers, it sounds pretty healthy too. Really happy with the results so far. The idle is a little rough, I wonder if it has a cam or if its just a bad idle? Oh and I confirmed that the clutch works too, Just a little nudge since the front brake is seized and I have to climb through the side window. I'll need to get that snapped fitting out and then get some water into it.
  7. SUCCESS!!! This isn't the first start, I'd got it running about 10min earlier. It didn't even smoke at all. Let it get a bit warmer (no radiator hoses) and did a compression test now its an even 165psi on all four?! The engine wants to live! Need to make up some hoses from what I have laying around but one problem is this fitting snapped off so I need to try cut it out: New plugs and leads that brought it back to life. Plus I set up an external fuel tank thing which helped.
  8. Thanks man, I’ve tried exactly that but with different base idle settings and it still does the out of travel grinding on key shut off. I’m not sure how it could be wiring, but maybe? Grotty helped me with a few other things yesterday it idles nicely now with the injectors set right and fuel table adjusted to get it closer to 14:1 but I still can’t figure out why the stepper motor is doing this on shut down. Ive tried max clamp anywhere from 20 to 700. At 700 it grinds out of travel for longer at shut down, at 20 it seems to be ok but it still repeats the reset every 5 second (although I doubt it’ll idle with that, was more or an anti grind test) and sometimes it still grinds for a split second like it’s taunting me, meaning the ecu doesn’t shut down. Strange that it idles ok, although it’s idling at about 1250rpm when the target is 850rpm at operating temp (might be too low). Should put some carbs on it.
  9. I'll keep playing around with it until it goes on the dyno.
  10. I've tried the 2jz settings and the 1uz settings, both seem to be way out. It goes to fully open and keeps trying to open more grinding away.
  11. Haha yes I saw that and thought of the same thing. Kind of weird since it works perfectly fine with the standard ecu and it’s just a rod opening or closing a hole in the manifold.
  12. Has anyone got some tips on how to set a Toyota 6 wire idle stepper motor with a Link g4+ Storm black? I'm obviously doing something wrong. I've got two problems: 1. trying to find the correct step number for the max and min clamp. 2. by not having the range right the idle motor seems to try reset with key off, it 'grinds' at the end of its ''open'' range and then tries again after a few seconds. Which then seems to mean that the ECU Hold Power keeps the ecu on forever. If I unplug the ISCV the Hold Power then shuts off the ECU after its 5second timer as it should. I have it wired as per the instructions, using Aux 5,6,7,8 and a relay powering the other 2 pins. It works and moves in and out (removed from intake manifold so I can see what it is doing). But the problem I am having is finding the correct setting for the max and min clamp (say 50 and 150 steps) in the PC Link software. From what I can tell, if it goes out of range it kind of grinds at the end of its travel for the most "open'' setting. When this happens it seems to then change the range for the max and min clamp step number again? I then get it where it doesn't grind by testing the max and min step number by putting in different numbers for the idle base position table. i.e. putting in a step count and seeing where it moves to based on that number. Then when I turn off the ign switch it still grinds while doing its reset, sometimes less grind sometimes more, but it is consistent depending on the PC Link setting so it must just be set wrong. Also, the start up table only allows a range of 0-100 so I guess this is a percentage instead of a step count? Is there a way to manually set the ISCV Stepper to what ever its base position should be, since it seems to change every time it goes out of its range? I am beginning to see why people avoid these stepper motors.
  13. New plugs and leads are on their way. Black leads were out of stock so I had to get red ones. It's going to look very stupid.
  14. There is definitely something to be said for carb noises, tempted to put some bike carbs on it. DCOE's are so damn expensive, guess I'll see how the single DCOE 42 performs. I have been wondering if it might already have a cam in it, based on the other cool bits it has.