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Stu

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  1. I have some 15inch Wedssport TC's that weigh 2/3rds of 5/8ths of fuck all if you want to run them on the rear? These ones:
  2. So my partner and I enjoy camping, its great exploring and finding new spots etc. But due to the large number of kids we have somehow acquired, there seems to be a not small mountain of shit that needs to be associated with taking them away anywhere. Gone are the days of just chucking the swag in the back of the car and splitting 10mins after getting the idea to go somewhere. These days its more like "lets spend the next 24-48hours stripping the house and packing the car to the roof till there's literally breathing space only", and its been seen for all passengers to have bags or cookers or boxes of shit on the knees when driving anywhere. And there's also the required clean up afterwards, including storing tents and chilly bins and crap under the house where's its not quite tall enough to stand up. It usually takes me a good 10 steps to straighten my spine out enough to stand upright after crawling out of said under house void. Last year we semi remedied the situation by stealing the in-laws trailer. Its a pretty well built generic box trailer that we've been using while landscaping etc So for summer 20/21 we loaded it up to the gunnels with gear, threw a tarp and cargo net over, and hoped that nothing fell out. Its worked reasonably well but we still managed to have too much shit and the car was still pretty full. It was super handy though, and at one point we had to change camp sites so instead of taking the tent down we threw it on the back and towed to the new site much to the amusement of other campers. Anyway, late last year I decided that our setup was still dumb and that I'd close the trailer in and make it actually work. The whole idea is that it all needed to be removable so the sides etc can come back off and the it can be reverted to tip dump duties etc. Luckily the trailer has the vertical square tubing in the corners that you can see in the top photo so I figured I could make sides that slot into those, then make the ends and top slot into the sides. Here's the loose drawing: Then got to work: Its a bit hard to tell from the photos but the ends have welded on plates with key ways so they slot onto fixings in the longer sides and tighten up. Basically loosen the bolts and then lift the end up and it will pull out for flat packing. The roof has 32x32mm SHS down inside the 40x40mm SHS corner uprights so it can be removed too. I picked up some hinges, door seal, and lockable latches from UES and started to make doors and clad the thing. I was fortunate to be given a couple of fucking huge solar panels for free so slammed one on the top to run the electrics. And this is pretty much what it ended up like. I also got a couple of lockable drawer slides and made up a support frame that runs across the trailer and supports 2x 12v fridge/freezers Ive got. One of them is a very old Waeco which we use as a freezer so put that at the back and the newer unit on the front as a fridge. I bought a solar charge controller from Jaycar, and mounted up a switch board, inverter, washdown pump and large AGM battery that I'd be given, along with some LED lights inside. End result looks like this: So this year we had all our shit thrown into the trailer which took half the time, and hardly anything in the car. It has been a total game changer and now we leave all the gear in it ready to go for next time. We've been a few places so far and looking forward to using it as often as possible. Its pretty much glamping now. Next step is to make a enclosure that fits on the draw bar that holds a couple of 25litre water tanks and houses the water pump rather than pulling it out when we need it, and make a triangle shaped board that a collapsible sink can go it. I'm also going to put a flood light on the front over the sink and possibly look at a retractable awning rather than taking the gazebo. #glamping
  3. Youve already sorted it but FYI the radiator fan should be controlled by the factory relay and temperature switch that is on the thermostat housing.
  4. Try to find some Cynos seats, they sit a bit lower down. Performance wise I'd guess it has the electronic dizzy already over the points setup the early ones have, but a half decent cold air intake and exhaust can help. There's some place in Thailand that sells exhaust headers for them from memory. Its been so long since I've mucked with a 2e. Other than that your best bet requires a bit of work and get something like a 4efe or 5efhe in there with EFI.
  5. Small update time. With the 86 I wanted to try and use CAN wherever possible as I haven't used it before and if it goes wrong its only my car compared to someone else's. So in the above pictured pile of junk is a Spartan3 CAN wideband with the ADV sensor, an ECUMaster CAN-EGT amplifier, and a Maxxecu CAN-PWM module. Eventually I'll get a CAN-GPS module and a possibly a dash but that will be a loooooong way off. I've started with the PWM fan speed control and as mentioned above, with the help of DaveScienceTM @Roman and his fancy 3d printer I now have a mounting block that fits to the underside of the battery tray. This will do for now but I have in mind a two piece mount so it has a cover. Anyway, wired up the module, relay, output and can circuit including terminal resistor which is inside the sealed off deutsch plug at the bottom. Mounted up under the battery, 60amp fuse is on the side, can bus runs through the front then parallels with the chassis wiring under the guard and into the cabin. And sorted out the fans themselves: And then, with the help of Dave we got the data streams roughed together and the fans running with varying speed: There is still some sorting out to be done on the data streams as the PWM module transmits an internal temperature, amperage load, and an error state, which are showing but not in the correct scale yet. Still learning so it might take me some time to sort out but its a promising start. The whole reason for the variable speed is that the battery is quite small (will eventually be a lithium one) and want to limit the load where possible, plus ramping fan speed is kinda rad... Till next time.
  6. #ingredients #broke So yeah, short of the injectors turning up I should have everything for the engine wire up now. Huge thanks to DaveScienceTM @Roman who 3D printed me a super sweet mounting plate for the CAN-PWM fan speed control module. Just gotta find some time to wire it - there might be a few "sick" days off work coming up...
  7. Lockdown didn't quite provide all the spare time I was anticipating due to picking up a heap of essential work, but I have been ticking away at this thing. I've been wanting to get into the wiring so have been putting in a few hours here and there. Wiring is something Ive done alot of over the years so while I don't enjoy body wiring that much, I am looking forward to getting into the ecu side of things. The whole idea with the wiring is that the engine/ecu wiring is plug and play so if I ever wanted to go back to a stock engine/ecu (I wont) then it wouldn't be a total nightmare to do. I hope it means the car will retain its value better this way. Way back when I stripped the car for painting the front end wiring loom ended up stashed in a box which gathered dust, but I hauled that out and started pondering things. I wanted to make a few small changes to the factory front wiring like shifting the washer pump wiring from the factory location behind the passenger strut tower where it will melt due to the heat from the headers, over to the factory 85 location on the drivers side. I also wanted to take out the air con wiring, re-route where the loom runs and tidy up a few other things. So the loom got stripped back, I traced all the plugs so I've got notes on what goes where with wire colours, then got to work. I removed all the aircon wiring but kept the circuits intact with notes on what connects where so if I want to later down the track I can overlay that loom and plug it all back in. I laid in the new washer wiring but de-pinned, insulated and hid the original wiring so it can be uncovered and repinned later on if the washer ever goes back there. The drivers side wiring route usually runs through firewall into the wheel well then in through the inner guard, down across the inner fender to the head lights and along the front under the top radiator support, but I've changed this so its all hidden under the guard, runs under the headlight and along the lower radiator support so none of it is seen. The alternator wiring is now re-routed to enter the engine bay below the head light so its a short straight run along the chassis rail and is far less noticeable - its actually shorter wiring along with being neater. Wrapped it all in conduit and then taped up and clipped back in using as many factory fixing points as possible. A large number of hours later shortening and lengthening etc it looked like this. I quite like the fact that I know what all the plugs do, where the wires all run and that there isn't any un-used plug or circuits. Lots of time spent doing things that no one will ever see or care about And other than the short section of alternator wiring this is all you can obviously see - its not finished yet but you get the idea. While I was at it I took the dash out and hauled the dash wiring loom out for a once over too. There was only a few minor changes I wanted to make like reconfigure the wiper wiring so instead of running through the engine loom like factory its part of the dash loom instead - Its spliced in so a factory engine loom would still work if needed. Fixed a few broken speaker wires and sorted the stereo wiring too. After that it all got a once over with new wrapping and replaced the odd plastic clip and it went back in. Quite satisfying that everything is in the right place, clipped back into factory points and theres no random wires. While I was at it I ran another separate loom next to it from the ecu area over to the dash for the Link inputs/outputs I want to run including a canbus circuit for future proofing incase I run a dash in this thing. Dash all went back in and at least for now its all buttoned back up properly. Then with the looms all plugged back in and the battery temporarily connected I powered the car up and after replacing a few bulbs everything seems to work and the smoke didn't escape so that's a bonus! I'll give the interior a good clean once the ecu wiring is done as its dusty as shit but it looks like a car again. I'll update on the ecu side of things soon but stuff as been arriving so im hoping to get onto that sometime soon. Other than wiring I also got the EGT setup pretty well sorted - have welded the compression fittings onto the exhaust so that can go on for good soon too. Thats all till next time
  8. Sweet car and nice progress! One of my old mates had one of these for quite a while - it wasn't slow! But it did eat gearboxes - lots of them from memory! I look forward to seeing your progeess.
  9. Twisting the circuits inside looms is handy for keeping things tidy etc - Poor mans concentric twist. I tend to use Deutsch plugs for most stuff, you can buy bulk packs if you hunt around which makes the plugs much cheaper.
  10. Ive used divider circuits before into a link when using ABS sensors and it worked fine
  11. So i made a thing from ali this time Will likely bomb it black at some point, its a bit too shiny for me. Thanks to Richie i now have some cam covers that have the lower bolt provisions for the COP plate so im working on getting those tidied up, modified for breathers and painted. I've also been making a few brake hard lines and about to start buying the ecu and sensors etc.
  12. Nice result! Can you link to the bluetooth battery monitor you use?
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