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Stu

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Everything posted by Stu

  1. ^ This test will need to repeated several times so we have an adequate data pool to draw conclusions from. Just saying @Roman can be on graph duty
  2. It cost me $1750 to get blasted and coated in epiphos. The guy was the cheapest I could find, most were around 3k, one quote was for 5k including a single layer of black paint but no rust repairs. Its not too bad in my opinion, and saved a metric shit ton of my time crawling under there with a wire wheel etc.
  3. The other option is to make the top unbolt so it can be done in parts. Total pain I know, but double dipping is quite alot more expensive. From memory our single dip rate is 1.69+gst per kg but I'm not sure if that covers trailers. Some galv plants charge different rates for them.
  4. This is awesome, nice work! Could you build a modular shelf/Tyre rack in the top at the front so you can jam more shit in when you go camping? Are you going galvanize it or just paint the sucker?
  5. Sick! Looking well put together there! (patiently waits for startup vid)
  6. Time for more punishing caravan updates: The tow coupling I had put on so I could run the gauntlet and tow the caravan across town to work was pretty rough, and missing the handbrake part. And to make things worse the caravan actually popped off the tow ball when I was moving it around the yard with the forklift which gave me the shits. Taking a look closer it was very worn so I promptly ripped it off and threw it in the scrap bin - dodged a bullet there. Hunting around for a direct replacement to the original turned into a bit of an ordeal - I could buy a generic braked coupling for not much money, but the handbrake levers are different and wouldn't work through the front fairing and the original handbrake also wouldn't swap over. It was looking like the only option was a new one but at ~$700 that idea could get fucked too. But by luck someone on the Liteweight facebook page had one for $60 - sold! Its in pretty good condition so with some new high tensile bolts it got fitted into place. Next on the radar was the wheels/brakes/tyres situation. The original wheels and tires where toast and I chanced my arm they would last the trip across town when I first moved the caravan. Luckily they held - check out the condition... First idea was just to get some new 13inch rims and away I go. Finding some rims in 4x108 wasn't the that hard, but after barrying to a couple of long term Liteweight owners it seemed the consensus was change to 14inch tires if possible as the load ratings are higher. Apparently the 13's have been known to blow out when heavily loaded - yeah not that keen seeing as the caravan will no doubt be loaded to the hilt in kid crap etc. Seeing as I was needing new rims anyway I started looking at 14's instead. There weren't that many 4x108 options around that I liked but I could get new 4x114's for not much money so I set to redrilling the hubs to suit. I made up a template on the CNC, used the drill press for the new pattern, and fitted some new studs. Rebuilt the calipers, got some new lines, and cleaned up the caliper brackets and slides Pressed in new bearings, packed the grease, new pads, fitted. Later swapped the calipers sided to side to the bleed nipple is at the top. New tires and rims fitted: I need a few more brake line fittings before I can get onto remaking the hard brake lines so moved onto other things. I re-wired all 12v trailer plug wiring with new 7 core trailer cable - a big step up from the 1985 speaker wire that was previously used. Interestingly it turns out two small internal kitchen lights run off the side light circuit. Anyway, thats all done. Moving back to the chassis I broke out the plasma and diced off the old front levellers, the made up some brackets for the new ones. With that done it meant the chassis prep and painting could continue. The whole chassis now has one coat done and Im most of the way through the second coat. I've also bought some underseal to paint the underside of the flooring with as the sand blasting left quite a few patches. I've done a few other small bits and pieces like replace the door hinges and the roof vent latches, and swap out of old crusty fastenings/bolts with new ones etc And that's kind of where I'm at bar a few small touch ups here and there. Hard brake lines next, rest of the chassis painting and undersealing then off for a WOF. After that, its onto the inside.
  7. We need a video of the blue plumes from outside the back of the shed
  8. 20v 4age at that too - oh the shame
  9. Nice! You must be stoked its going! So what's the full spec on this thing now?
  10. I love how the first sniff of a 1nz conversion and DaveScience is in there with the maths. I heartedly approve. #1nztheworld #morerevs
  11. Same, happily throw in a fiddy to see another block put in this thing asap
  12. Oh yeah, also found another hole in the NA 4age EP71. Fuck I hate bodywork. Everything else is looking good though so hopefully in the next month or so it will be close to ready to paint.
  13. Holy hell, two updates within 6 months?! I think I've mentioned before that there isn't a lot of real estate for the ecu and wideband etc to be mounted so I've been taking advantage of every piece of space available to mount things. Ecu's laying on the floor or stuffed loose in a glove box is a pet hate of mine. I needed to find a space to mount the CAN-EGT amplifier and the Spartan3 wideband and worked out there is some clear space between the back of the glovebox and the blower box which might do the trick. I drew up a mount and once again the GC @Roman 3D printed it and it came out great - admittedly it took two goes because my tape measure was faulty... Anyway, got there in the end. The two little caps are to capture the cables so they don't move and put stress on the plugs. Everything fits well and the CAN-EGT clips into place solidly, glad that worked out. This is where its going to live. So everything is starting to take shape now, and ive buttoned up the drivers side. I need to find some new clutch and brake pedal rubbers, a fog light switch, replace the few bulbs in the cluster/console as there are a couple not working, find a black bonnet release lever, and give everything a clean. I'm still hunting for the head light and wiper switch bezels that have the dimmer and intermittent text on them as the switches are the adjustable ones but mine don't have the text on them. Also managed to get the factory radio running again and have been listening to a few classics. I like the factory dash insets for storing tapes. Last year I got in on a group buy for some carbon weather shields so fitted those too. And here's the alternator all rebuilt/upgraded. Have fitted that now, waiting on a belt to show up then the charge circuit stuff is all done. I'm working on the engine loom at the moment - plan is to have the injection circuit and the coils circuit to have plugs to the main harness so if I ever decide to change them its only the sub harness that needs changing rather than the whole loom. Anyway, more on that once its done.
  14. Update time: Blue EP71 I've been thinking about what to do with this car and have finally come to a bit of a plan. Currently its under cover in dry storage and gets largely forgotten about for months at a time. Every now and then I take the cover off, stand around pondering things while it gets a heat cycle or a short drive, then put it all away again. Its reasonably functional in its current form, is a total animal to drive (read FUN), and works well enough. I'm sure I could jump in it and rattle off more high 11sec quarter mile runs (possibly quicker) or go hit a track without too much effort. But there are a few small things that past Stu did that current Stu isn't so happy with. I'd like to swap back to the taller ratio gearbox with the new Cusco LSD I've got sitting on the shelf to see if one less gear change on the quarter mile would make a difference. I've also got the new S2 GTX2867 to go on, all the stainless bends/pipe for the upgrade to a 3 inch exhaust. I'd pour some new engine mounts at the same time, change the hot side intercooler pipe, finally fit the front lip properly, rewire the main power feeds, put some high impedance big injectors in it and do away with the ballast resistors, maybe upgrade the ecu to an extreme, wire up the speed sensor and clutch position sensor so I can setup proper launch control etc. I'm motivated, but the reality is that I don't have time for this with house renovations, a growing business, caravan build and the AE86 being priorities. So, for now this thing will continue to stay parked up for the most part and the aim is to refresh it over winter 2023 and get it ready for OS drags 23. So for now all Ive done is have the alternator upgraded/rebuilt, bought a new battery, pulled the spare gearbox out of storage to fit the new diff, and ordered a few vband clamps. #boring I'm hoping that in the next month or so I can find a weekend to give it a good clean as it got put away filthy so at least I feel its not being neglected. And here's one of my favourite pics to keep the motivation going: Other EP71 The beater has had significant rust and panel work done to it since I bought it and its "nearly" ready for paint. A really good mate of mine is tackling most of the work and has done an amazing job - I'm very thankful as I just don't have the time to do it myself. I actually bought a donor shell to take doors/hatch/guards and a few cuts from as there was a fair bit of rot. It will never be a show car but its looking miles better than it was and Im looking forward to getting it back on the road for general hooning. Will take it up and dyno it with KPR at some point and finally use the ramps that allow the dyno to take FWD cars that I built aaaages back. This is an old photo and its much further on now but you get the idea. Ive picked up a full Si body kit for it (side skirts, front lip, boot spoiler) which I'll paint up when the rest of the car is ready. I'm on the hunt for some different wheels for it but unsure what I really want - should really stick with 15's for cert but tempted to find some 14's. The 86 I haven't really touched this much until lately while Ive been waiting for Caravan parts to arrive. Changed out the front strut brace for a Cusco one. Fitted a kill switch in the engine bay and tidied up the main powers - will likely move the earth point to further forward on the chassis leg so its not seen. I want to eventually run a big fuel pump and big coils etc so rather than relying on old relays etc I setup a new relay/fuse box up under the dash on the passenger side. Have run the feeds through to the battery and will hook them into the factory main fuses as there is a slot free. Just trying to track down a fuse to suit then thats done. You can see the link bracket mounted onto the underside of the heater box - there's not alot of real estate to hide stuff. Ive also drawn up a mount for the Spartan3 and the EGT amplifier that DaveScience aka @Roman is going to 3d print for me - thanks bro! This will mount to the side of the blower casing behind the glove box so will be nicely hidden. Ive drawn up all the wiring diagrams now so any spare time will be on wiring the engine from now on. Thats it for now
  15. Damn thats cool! Nice work Clint! Not long till smokey 11's?
  16. A mate of mine owned that from last time I saw, pretty cool
  17. Option A : EFI that bitch so the seat clears and much nicer running, then chop what ever needs chopping/strengthen what ever needs strengtherizing (yes thats a word... well it is now) to make it stay where it is for visual smug face when the seat is lifted (cert man is being lazy with no cutting preference). Option B : See above.
  18. Ive got it on a small solar panel so its always topped up so couldnt tell you sorry
  19. These could be an option? https://dcpower.co.nz/product/batteries/starting/vision-hp12-116w/ Ive got one in my 86 is it cranks it over pretty quick!
  20. Nice work! Didnt really do much, just glad to see another project running!
  21. Thanks @Mof, will check them both out. I'm not sure what the condition of the tanks are like yet but I'm expecting them to be filled with sploogy goodness. The new levelers are not exactly the same as the old ones but they were cheap and are longer plus are able to be bolted on which is handy. I got the rear leveler angle brackets made and zipped into place so bolted them on with some temporary fixings. On the front end the coupling base was a bit rusty and the cross bar under the LPG bottle bracket was bent and pretty second hand. So they both got diced off and I cleaned everything else up. There were a few small rusty pits that I ground out to clean steel, welded up and ground smooth. I zipped on a new coupling base which is much thicker steel for piece of mind, and used a piece of channel to recreate the bottle base reusing the old strapping which is fine. Cleaned it all up and layered on some hammerite. Still a bit to go but reasonably happy with progress. New jockey wheel to buy and fit (this has been a bit of a dick finding a replacement). front levelers to change out, bolt on a new chain, fit the new tow hitch, setup the brake lines, run new wiring as its currently speaker wire, replace the LPG bottle strap fixing and the LPG hose, then paint it all.
  22. For sure! The new ones have a 19mm hex head on them so my plan is to use the battery driver I have to do them up Haha no progress on wheels yet but thats not far away. I've got a new set of hubs sitting at work ready to test fit onto the existing stub axles. I'm 50% expecting to have to muck around finding the right bearings but I'm hoping this will work. If it does then 4x114 is the new pattern so some good 14's can be fitted. I've got commercial tires lined up that are only 9mm taller than the 13's on there now. Once its all confirmed its going to work I'll be shopping for a pair of something old and rad.
  23. More progress. With help from my trusty friends Mr Grinder, Mr Plasma and Mr Big Fucking Hammer, the offending rusty sections are no longer. It wasn't very hard to do, just drilled out some rivets thru the floor into the cross member, then chopped the thing out. Also had to zip off the levellers and chop back on one of the chassis rails that was a bit poked. Grabbed some new steel and wizzed some black hammerite on it where it contacts the floor, then metal poo sticked it in place. So a little bit of finishing work and that's the rust gone from the back thankfully. I'm grabbing some new levellers today, and will whip up some brackets so they bolt on this time incase I do something dumb like driving off with one down and they need to be replaced again. Ive also figured out the weird water tank thing is infact 240v hot water so once the welding is done will whip the cover off and check it out while repainting the chassis. I want to convert from the manual foot pump for the water to a 12v one that I have and will be replacing all the lines etc too. Im guessing the tank is filled up with spiders and gunk so will have to give that a good flush out and sanitize.
  24. As an advocate of small wrong wheel drive cars with silly power Im sure you will easily get a 13 with some good traction. I don't think my EP71 runs much more power than you and its in the high 11s.
  25. Great result! This should be a handfull to drive and so little boost too!
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