NickJ

What are they from originally? Lada pretty much copied everyone that had suspect ideas

One of these with an ecentric adapter to locate? Bore is 10mm, 60mm OD https://ladapower.com/catalog/transfer-case-2/lada-niva-transfer-case-mounting-oem-detail

Ah, so its more of a rocking play than true radial? Nose of the yoke is steady while the UJ end can move? Depending on the ratio of spline engaged and where you are measuring from, 1mm could be expected. How much axial spline engagement is there? Having axial float is needed, 15mm might be at the upper end, closing that up might help with the wobble as long as it doesn't bottom out under extreme travel. One benefit of involute splines is they self centre under load, negative is it probably flops around off load, from the above is sounds like wear is in the yoke rather than gearbox? While there is a bush in the housing for the OD of the yoke (or it might just be the housing) replacing and machining this tighter is risky as it needs to either have clearance or be concentric to the pressure circle of the spline. With the Nissan boxes, i've been told that they are fine if the oil seal is intact, not a very scientific assessment of spline wear though! For reference, lip seals usually have 0.5-1 mm radial runout allowance but there are a few other factors involved here too. Man waffle with no answer, sounds like you've got wear in that area, but its possibly not much out of the normal for that arrangement

Is there any play in the gearbox output shaft? No backlash suggests its not the splined joint, unless really old square splines?

Yeah 1mm radial sounds pretty excessive for a splined joint, I would also imagine it has horrific backlash too? If no blacklash then likely the bearing so i'd be looking to replace that, must be giving the oil seal a good working?

Cheers bro, i'll persevere with it then, had bit of a nightmare last time I tried and just assumed the gun didn't like it. Yeah possibly too small, stuff like this Found a few things that needed sanding which exposed metal, not ready to fully mask for top coating but would still like to use real paint. In this case a rattle can of grey primer.

I have the opposite issue, Epotec sticks too well and to everything. One of my favourites because it also scuffs up nice. Which brings up a Q, do the small touchup guns give less overspray than fullsize? Bugs me that if i want to use proper paint on something small I have to mask everything in the shed, would be nice to have a smaller gun that behaves more like a rattle can, is that a thing?

Turned cleaning up the spray gear into a half day project, cnc some scrap ali sheet and fold for a gun rack

Another batch of bits from the sandblaster including a few front suspension bits that have been holding up progress Everything will get a coat of the same metallic grey 2 pack enamel except the wheels, they were originally white but still not fully decided, could use some leftover white from the Datsun or go completely different, too many choices! Back on assembly and the front upper wishbones are slightly difficult to assembly as there is a sequence to follow, as usual the universal stack of large sockets got me through. Semi rebuilt the front brakes, i've never serviced them but they've had all the abuse so assumed they would need seals and pistons, strip down was very surprising, both cleaned up like new, only really need new dust boots that I damaged removing. Interestingly, they are a two piece design, pressed them apart, blast and paint on the cast iron and ultrasonic bath for the aluminium body. If you haven't got a 3d printer in your workshop, do try it, blanking caps are quick which makes masking for blast and paint easy, no tape! From this To this between blanking caps and custom press tools, its paying for itself in time/sanity saved at a rapid rate. Found full parts catalogue online so printed out a copy to sit alongside the workshop manual, the exploded diagrams beautifully compliment my terrible labelling of ziplock bags. The big plan of having it running by the end of this month has all but disappeared, a large parcel of important parts is currently tracked as in NZ but stuck between Customs who say they have no interest in it, pre-cleared entry and NZPost who say Customs have it, Being that they both operate out of the same building its quite disappointing, not to mention how 25kg of car parts just vanishes.

I'm assuming this is a no, but is there any way to easily adapt a suitably spaced seat to offset hight factory seat rails? In the Lada, the inner seat rail sits about 50mm higher than the outer. If I slipped a length of SHS in there to put all the mounts on the same plane and is all bolted up, would that overly trigger the wof man? Current seats are flimsy and i'd love something modern, just adding re-cert to the list of things to get it back on the road is not high on the wishlist

Don't you start with this too! Got a mate from uni who loves to remind me of this everytime I hint at tackling any panelbeating, painfully truthful. Started cleaning up the back and found a dent hiding under the thick layer of dust under the boot liner Thats odd how have I never noticed that? yep, there it is, under the fresh coat of underseal too

And now for the fun bit, reassembly Except its not that fun, many fasteners to find, clean, then decide to just go buy new ones only to realise the bolt heads are not the same size. At least the weather is encouraging shuffling bolts through the ultrasonic bath Installed new rubber to the rear arms, too busy to turn a cone at work, 3d printer to the rescue! Lower arms in to get them off the bench and not scratched, rattle can rebuild of the shocks which are surprisingly good condition for their age, still waiting on spring perches and uper arm pivots to finish off, should have them back from the sandblaster this week. One last spot to tidy up, took a fair amount of bashing to get to here, only a thin skim of bog to get flat, will see how motivated I am if it gets any more of a tap. Can also see the lovely new grill I had delivered, really impressive the post managed to smash it in the same spot as the one I took off

Whats the largest object you've scanned successfully?

Rebuilding the Niva i'm seeing all my crap workmanship from 15 years ago, one of those is the sump, which is a right pain with all the bits it has to dodge, cross member, diffhead etc. That scanner is looking pretty inviting from what you've shown, getting all those bits in the computer could be easier than lifting everything in and out multiple times to beat a cad design into working. Data volume sounds like a good job for the work computer!

Was that scanned with the Ferret? Looks really good! Had a few things pop up of similar scale to work on and that looks perfect for picking up bolt holes?