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HKM400

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  1. Booked in for cert on some coilovers in Christchurch this week, wanting to check I have everything prepared, and if I'm missing any info he will need. Alignment was done this week and has been setup within OE tolerances, have the alignment sheet for the certifier. Access to the strut tops in the rear is behind the seat back. Currently I have the rear seats out as I'm still setting up the damper adjustment/fine tuning the ride- will leaving these out for cert make his job easier, or does he need to see the car fully assembled? Thank you
  2. Yesterday I made up some radiator hoses and mounted the pump for good. Hacked up an XY falcon hose as it had the right diameter and bends. Had to add the temp sensor for the pump into the top hose, worked better than expected. Quality control cat checked it for structural integrity Did a bit of heat management on the wiring too, bought some sheath for the alternator wiring as it runs right beside the exhaust collector. Still some tidying up to do but it should be ready to start next weekend. V nervous.
  3. Back in April I tried to fit the new head, only to find the dowel sizes from the original head and the new head were different. The head went back on the shelf at this point. Last week I got the head milled so the block and head had the same diameter dowel holes, and made up some new dowels. New gasket in, then bolted it up yesterday, rockers back in, clearances all set etc. A workmate also managed to press the impeller out of the water pump and blank off the end, so now I can run electric water pump only, no thermostat and the controller can take care of everything for me. Need to get a very short alternator drive belt now. Tidied up some other bits, I stripped the rocker cover back to bare metal finish, repainted the exhaust manifold. Looks a bit better. Cowl isn't fitted properly- just sitting on there, the gap isn't that horrendous. Made a little bracket to help support the electric pump, got a bit carried away. Generally the rad hoses are enough to support it, but an extra bracket shouldn't hurt. Speed holes because BOM aspirations... Hopefully the pump will be ok drawing from the bottom hose in this location. The rad hose should allow for some movement as you're not really meant to solid mount these pumps apparently. Time to find some hoses that'll fit. So many things I want to redo. A lot of my previous workmanship (or lack of) is starting to show. Trying to do things properly now.
  4. Sorry @Paul LS7 S3 for the massively delayed reply. The A arms are the original ones that came on the car I think, but Mcgregor Motorsport did a lot of fabrication work on the car and I’m sure they could provide you with some advice
  5. Some nice things arrived before everything turned to custard The water passage looks like a shocked face :O Repco is also delivering at the moment - I ordered a gasket set with the cylinder head but it was a bit bent and some of the sealing material had come away, so ordered another head gasket locally. Also painted the water pump pulley a stupid colour because why not. Fitting tomorrow - what's the opinion on copper gasket spray on head gaskets? New one is a generic permaseal. Cheers
  6. Have rediscovered a bit of love for this the past few weeks. It's odd revisiting your previous work, I guess I was in a rush to get it running but there have always been numerous untidy things that have annoyed me about the car, so it's quite nice to make some improvement. The main source of annoyance was the wiring and the way it was run/cable tied all over the place, so I recovered the whole loom and rerouted most of it. This turned out to be a good move as there is still a lot of oil coating everything after the filter explosion disaster. The cable routing is better, will never be perfect but it is a lot more tidy. Before And after I also decided to follow some good advice from the discussion thread and got a Davies Craig EWP and controller. It may be slightly overkill for this application but I will be happy if the car runs at a reasonable temperature and I can eliminate the mechanical pump - this will probably require some fabrication as you cannot remove the impeller from the factory pump but I think I can get that sorted. Also wired the controller up and made a hinged bracket so the display can be folded up under the dash. Simple but does the job. Sensors aren't plugged in obviously, as I have no cylinder head. Will tidy the rest of the wiring once the pump and radiator are back in. Have been saving up for a new cylinder head, will probably source one from the UK. Going to be an expensive day but likely cheaper than buying a second hand head here then having it crack tested and built up etc. Time for a beer one thinks.... Cheers
  7. Well, crack test has confirmed, it's fucked. Has been previously repaired as well. Cracked right around both the removed valves. Given the cost of repair it is uneconomic and would likely happen again anyway. Both nice to confirm the issue, and also a bit of a pain. Time to figure out the next move...
  8. @Sunbeam just recalled, few years ago someone borrowed the 2a mentioned earlier in the thread and took his kids down a dirt road, they were sitting in the back, rear door flew open and one of them fell out. Luckily they bounced and were fine. Naturally old Land Rover wasn’t going all that fast
  9. Got things back together. The gear stick is slightly closer to the driver now which is both helpful but I have also now lost all my reference points Left a car park entrance with a fair bit of speed on, and the drivers door flew open. Not the first time this has occurred so also adjusted the latches, they are pretty well worn however. Slam locks always draw attention as members of the public probably think I'm furious about something. In reality I just want to go home without falling out. Tried to go and find some puddles or things to drive over at the Waimak but access is pretty well blocked off. Found some old photos anyway Moments before this occurred, I believe the driver said, "Watch this!" Which resulted in trying tow the range rover out, which went well... My car did back out of that, but a man with a snatch rope had to come and rescue the range rover. There are computers under the drivers seat for things like the airbag suspension etc. Which were under water... This was a few years ago and I believe it's all fixed now. Keen to try and find some spots around Christchurch for more of the above, Waimak and also Mcleans Island seem like a no go anymore though...
  10. Cheers @Unclejake and @yoeddynz will definitely look into an electric pump and also try find someone experienced to set the timing and carbs up properly.
  11. Curiosity got the better of me, trying to keep busy lately as things are not going so well. hmmm...... The head is still full of rusty shite so will get it hot tanked etc.
  12. Cheers everyone, yep it is kent powered. Never heard of water wetter before, thought it might have been a "blinker fluid" scenario. Google has revealed otherwise
  13. Decided to get this out and try sort a few things. Wouldn't start at first so had to put some fresh fuel in, clean the points etc. Started eventually- took it outside, pulled the radiator cap off and there are bubbles- was only running for about 3 minutes. Water was hotter than expected too. Removed the radiator to flush it out with a hose, even after running rad cleaner through the whole system awhile back and filling with a good antifreeze mix it still has rust scale shit in it. Replaced the top hose as it had a pin hole in it. Refilled and went to run it with both caps off (it has one on the rad, and one on the top of the head). Under light load it is pushing water out- so I suspect a head gasket, someone may be able to confirm my diagnosis, as I often have no idea what i'm doing... Aside from the potential head gasket- Other contributing issues with cooling are that the bottom hose is on a fairly steep angle upwards to reconnect to the water pump, which might mean the pump has a hard time pushing water back up the hose? The top hose also angles downwards, but the inlet on the radiator also points down- again, not the easiest flow path. Assistance with diagnosis greatly appreciated:
  14. Driving home the other day, and my shifter become incredibly remote. Very odd sensation. Also annoying that it broke off in neutral so I had no drive. Thankfully the underseat storage box contained the ideal assortment of rusty tools, along with a singular used bush, one set of brake shoes, a single u bolt and an owners manual missing multiple pages. Took the high range lever cover off and pushed the selector into second and drove home, chucked it in low range to get up the hill. New one is coming from Australia. Had to take the floor panels out to remove the selector. Currently in flintstone mode. Exploded shifter, the circlip was under a fair bit of tension, didn't expect the spring to be quite that large
  15. This happened today, and I bloody missed it happening. Don’t imagine it’s the first time around the block though being a 5 digit odometer. *next update in 99,996k
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