nzstato

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About nzstato

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    Otago

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  1. Phosphoric acid, 'deoxidine' brand is fine
  2. I'm not sure if I've posted this previously... Its a T35 'replica', one of 3? Acorn Schroeder here in NZ, is actually a monocoque body an has alfa running gear. There are 'cappings' on the boat tail which you can remove to bolt in a roll cage https://www.allcarindex.com/production/new-zealand/acorn/schroeder/ A writeup on one of the other chassis https://drivetribe.com/p/kiwi-built-bugatti-is-art-on-wheels-ZU4S4mJsR8GBAFx-wDniiA?iid=FdBMFnhvT0KY6pfZnwkOQw Owned by a friend of mine, its an absolute blast to drive...
  3. Cheers, Pyrex = borosilicate glass = what I sell
  4. To add my spam... I run one of these TiGs (bought from local welding shop), owner there said they've always been popular and ended up reviving the model (was planed to stop) due to demand https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/W1103 Also, does anyone use glass TIG cup? Seeing as a run a glass company I'm thinking of starting to manufacture them.... $30 from the shop for a few cents of glass and an oring seems just silly to me....
  5. I'm really not sure If I'm having too much of a Barry bodge moment but I have a problem I need to solve.... The transfer case parts I sourced has a shaft with really mint splines on it but has had the nose busted off it where the output shaft bolt threads on.... So I now have two shafts which are not good in different spots. I've managed to turn the end of the broken one down to accept a press fit threaded nose which I could TIG in... Still following up for replacement shafts but failing that I do have enough bits now to build up two transfer boxes. Anyone done something like this and lived to tell the tale....?
  6. Not a terribly interesting update, and its a prick of a job.... I've been giving the springs a bit of a refresh, grind off all the rust and dirt. A quick zinc black and I used dry spray lubricant between the leaves (internet tells me this is the preferred approach. Also replaced all of the bushes, the spring eye ones I can do in the press. Anyone whose done them knows the chassis bushes are an absolute pain. I made up a DIY screw press but it didn't really help. Had to burn out the rubber then hacksaw the outer casing to get them out - were rusted in there tight. Already thinking about future upgrades, ultimate would be to replace with parabolics and do a disc brake conversion. Yes I know the shackles are the wrong way, will move it about when I can mount the wheels.
  7. nzstato

    PAINT THREAD

    I get what you are trying to say here.... Early corollas sprayed with orange 2k come to mind...
  8. My grinder broke so have resorted to filing out my welds... Did a quick clean/paint/grease on the handbrake... Think I've sorted out a replacement transfer box but decided to pull it down. The splines on the shaft and where the high speed gear runs is worn so that is junk, the low speed gear is hogged out where the dogs engage (most likely when shifting into low while moving) so that is too. But what takes the cake is the high speed gear.... Yes that is a crack the whole way around.... whats more interesting is that its been pinned as a repair some time in the past. These boxes are built pretty tough (and usually the gearboxes would lunch themselves long before the transfer gears) so it would have been quite a situation to do this kind of damage...
  9. Because this area can be seen I've decided to TIG it all. Finally getting my head around how to do it with pulse on panel steel, really enjoying it to be honest, very controllable and I can just knock it all down with my body file to leave a good finish. I've yet to decide what my plan of attack is going to be here....
  10. Back on some steel... These B pillars are pretty bad (this one has separated from its sill and both sides of the top of the door frame are rusted through. Cutty cutty, foldy foldy.... Weldy weldy..
  11. Swapping back to a bit of bodywork now.... This corner of the tub has number of hits, the rear is quite stoved in and it has made quite a bit crease in the side where it joins up to the galve capping. Not to mention a dent across the body line. When I started stripping it I found a ton more bog from older repairs. I loathe doing bog work so will be attempting to get the panels back as good as I can get them using metal work. This old girl will wear its body scars with pride, likewise its going to be used and if I do (when?) I hit something in the bush there's no point having all your filler crack down.... First time I've panel worked alloy. Trying to be super careful not to stretch it more than it is already. Got all of the areas which are braced square first. Then I had to take out the spot welds to shift the fold in the rear section to pull the stretched areas tight. Not perfect but better.... Will do the bottom section when I tip it upside down in the shed.
  12. Also, I may have a 1ton gearshift somewhere in the shed. Will let you know if I find it?
  13. Yes M20s are now moonbeams.... A cheap trick is to get a 6cyl box and swap out the 1st gear/pinion for a v8 one (you can buy them new). The gearing isnt quite the same but it can be a cheaper route.
  14. If I haven't shown it previously this is what I'm aiming for (sing out if anyone knows of a roofrack hiding anywhere...). Just talking through paint options to spray the alluminium. I have left over 'old english white' from the mini to do the roof and the wheels.
  15. This is quite cool, that bearing carrier has 'Made in New Zealand' cast into it. It's actually two pieces which are tigged together. More cleaning/painting etc. Also had a load of parts arrive from the UK so that allowed to put the diff cover/pinion back together. Hope to refurb the springs and get it all back into the chassis over the weekend. Anyone who knows LR spring bushes understand that I'm dreading that job...