nzstato

^ yup, friend did the same a number of years back... had lockup converter on a seperate speed switch.

Been a little quiet on the LR front.... Been gearing up with some homebuilt tools to manufacture these door skins, I have a bunch of interest from others who want me to make skins, including someone who has just purchased a Forward Control S2 - they are a unique door to that model which should be interesting. Anywho, made a 'mini' door just to confirm my steps. The door handle opening was done by making a hammerform from a 1/2" plate cut to the correct shape, I radiused the edge on it so it would give me the right kind of 'roll over'. Currently have made these from 1200-H14 but might try and get something stiffer next time which will help with dent resistance.

I assembled one of these A engines a few months back, your description of dizzy position sounds correct.... If it hasn't been replaced the chains in these will be getting really slack now, they can jump teeth. Put it on TDC, pull the cover off and see if the crank/cam marks point to each other. I cant recall the exact position but the crank key should sit in a particular reference to this also (it may have stripped the key). In the Haynes manual

Got it, makes sense. Found the link base tune by doing a screen shot from a video by 'CarTuneNZ' - great source for anything 1UZ. Looks a pretty good starting point, I also transcribed some accel settings from a decent source. Planning to get on the water this weekend. Will report back...

More good ideas.... Some quick googling finds some partial screenshots which looks somewhat similar.... Another question I have... doing some more research, with the 'constant load' aspect of the jet unit, the map area at which you are at 'cruise' has a higher MAP value than in a vehicle. Would it be ok in the AFR map to move the lean values into that area to correctly tune for those situations? Need to do the logging to properly see what I need to do but something I was thinking of. Some quick googling to find a partial screen

Cheers, aligns with my strategy on this. Some more googling and found what could be a better starting point that what I have. Need to do some conversions as not all corrections in MS1 are % based. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/771816-rob-s-sc400-pnp-megasquirt-project.html From the mods I had to do to the throttle, fully expecting the TPS isnt calibrated correctly and need to check the base timing (I see 4 Deg trim already) Not sure I've I'll get to much testing on it this weekend, started trying to hunt down 1UZ log exhausts to rig up the O2. Aim it to get at least 'running right' prior to spring. I need to pull the engine at some point (probably next year) and will likely go through and re-wire alot of the connectors, built a proper fuse and relay bank, perhaps upgrade to a microsquirt and mount in a different location. Who know what the years of heat/vibration has done on this MS1 and its expected reliability....

Don't have the functionality here but this fills in the blanks where I need to go... https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=134&t=66937

Thats an awesome idea... if my hot timing is ~12deg, knock this back to 8-10 might be enough? Asuming I keep the relevent cells out of this a bit higher shouldnt cause any off idle accel issues? Yes, know REQ_Fuel is just a scaler, just cautious since this early megasquirt version swaps between raw and % tables (compared to later models) that I dont mess certain parts up.

Yet to start logging with the boat but looking at the current tune, and noting some potential problems.... Firstly, REQ_Fuel (base injector pulse width) is set ~11% too low (6.0 vs 6.7ms) for what the calculator shows, they've used some funny parameters in the calc to get 6.0ms so likely whoever was originally doing it found that 6.0 was (close to right) Looking at the fuel table there are two 'ridges', the low MAP/low RPM one was probably set in an attempt to help idling (the idle control valve has been removed) and the higher one probably because thats where the engine is mostly in the table - my reading shows that since the load on the engine is relatively constant (i.e. you're pushing water through a jet pump) you only use a small portion of the map. Also, it starts pretty quick, the cranking table for MS1 is set by pulse width direct rather than % off the VE table, works out to be ~80% fuel so I think that may be roughly on the money. However takes a number of jabs on the throttle to stay going on the early stage of warmup. My feel from this is that the After Start Enrichment is too lean (and compensated by high values in the VE table) but warmup curve is probably ok. Or, is the fact there is no idle valve going to play into this? Being a direct drive boat I ideally dont want >1000rpm at any point during startup/idle and so wonder I can get away with no idle valve. Appreciate startup will never be spot on but perhaps a bit better than this currently if I can sort out these tables. Advice?

That might be the better option... going to think about it some more.... I really would prefer not to drill into the alloy and go through the flexi, issue is backflush water entering that area. Cheers Was looking to get a serial/bluetooth/Wifi adapter for logging, but might just be alot easier to run an extra long cable and sit an old laptop on the back seat

Think it’s been there for a long time... doubt it likes the heat either. Going to move it....

Think it’s been there for a long time... doubt it likes the heat either. Going to move it....

She gets pretty wet in there....

Think I've only been able to read through 50% of the thread but this is gold.... I'm going to do some logging/tuning on my boat and need to hook up a wideband. Jetties have advised the only way to really do this in marine manifolds is to drill/tap right next to a single exhaust port where it's not water jacketed. Realistically a widebands only going to be there during the period where I need to log/tune, I'll have it running open map 99% of the time. What problems am I going to run into? Will the AFR be bias lean/rich, how will heatsoak affect numbers? I'm sure the sensor wouldn't last too many hours to be left in that position anywho.

And then the bottom and close to done... I have a friend who runs a profile cutting business, I'm going to get them to cut a shape out in 1/4" steel for me to use as a hammerform to bend the flange around the door handle correctly. Had a bit of a play with the profile to make the side doors. The 'hip' line profile is pretty straight forward, I'm going to use the cut tubing from the bullbar I took off this thing to make a pipe anvil. Plus think I'll make a wider panbrake out of angle, it will make this all alot easier. I posted on one of the FB pages that I was making these and if anyone wanted some if I made extras. Got responses totalling ~20 skins (way more than I expected) so it looks like I may end up being in the repro business....

Been starting on these door skins. Went down to Paynes Alluminium to buy a few sheets and met the absolute GC of an owner. When he learnt I was making door skins for a LR he personally went out to the warehouse and got about 3 of his guys to scurry around looking for what I needed. When the sheets werent going to fit into my truck he got another one of the guys in the yarn to put them on their shop truck and drop them to my house. They've got 4 depots across the country and national accounts, and they did that for 2x sheets of a cash sale..... Anywho, back to making these skins, I'm doing the rear 'barn' door first..... Peeled the original back to the frame... Then after a bunch of measuring (there is a slight taper/narrowing to the top of this skin) I folded the edges over. This is me doing the top edge, my folder isnt quite long enough to do this length but it will do the sides. The cheap alternative is to line your fold up with a straight piece of steel, clamp it to that and then form the break with a soft hammer and a dolly to stop the rest of the sheet curving back. In doing this I did stretch the fold a bit in the middle which caused a curve (this alloy moves really quick), no problem as will use my kick shrinker to bring it back straight Fold the side edges down on my panbrake and a quick test fit...

Decided to have a go at reskinning all of the doors for a few reasons.... - The rear ones are dented and too far gone to repair - I've been quoted ~$700 ea for reproduction doors ex UK - It takes AGES to strip the paint off (and I tend to use alot of stripper) without overheating the alloy - The skins themselves look easy enough to make - a roll and some folded edges, my pan brake is just big enough - There is quite a bit of alloy corrosion on the lower sections (alot of LR doors do this) - I have a super friendly alloy supply shop 5 min from my house who have 1200-H14 1.2 mm sheets in stock at (what I think) a very reasonable price. Will report back....

Nah I don’t..... Away south on Sunday

Going to put this here, its not very interesting but it might help someone. This is the same picture as above, it 'looks' good but has alot of problems. In below, the red circles highlight some massive hollows (1") in the panels. You would think the solution is to get a hammer and bash them out but those hollows are a symptom of the problems.... The blue section is massively stretched and it has a brace behind it which is bent, the green shows the lower edge which is bent into a curve. With flat panels like this I need to sort the edges first and the rest should follow.... Here I've drilled the spot weld of the brace out (the clecos are holding it in) and using a leather sandbag with heat and the hammer have shrunk the green section back in, it has pulled alot of that lower hollow flat. Straightening this flange was a right pain. I ended up heating the edge and got medieval with the hammer and dolly. It doesnt look pretty but its now straight across the panel which is most important. Its still hollow below this, but thats due to some stretched ridges which continue from the green section, I'll planish the fold out and then shrink them down....

You can leave it in my warehouse if you are lacking for space. PM me if you want a hand

Yep, drill them out That guy is great, you can spend hours on his content (and it is all gold). He has shrinking disc videos from years ago and you can buy them from his ebay store. I run on on a variable speed 9". Just bought a small leather sandbag to try the other method with.

Those should be easy enough to get out but will stretch as they are quite deep. Take the capping off first, if the internal bracing/edges are bent focus on pulling them out straight first before hammering the skin. Learnt most from this guy.... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU4f0UCOfiB32Lo4Z6NDghA

I'm going to look at a new project in the weekend which has a 1UZ running off a early Megasquirt ECU. Not knowing much at all about either is there anything specific I need to look out for? Basic stuff given, the internet tells me 1UZ are pretty reliable but are there any traps for young players?

I have the gear and have been thinking that. Also seen a method with heat, a hammer and a lead shot bag which looks quick effective on alloy...

^ So the repair-the-shaft trick didnt work out, still trying to track a decent one down. More body work... Finally done with the B-pillars, pain of a job but I couldnt justify the cost of repros. Still need to do the back doglegs but that can wait till I can align them with the tub. Got all of the paint off the tub (I prefer to use lots of stripper and minimal abbrasives), fliped it over and put it in the shed to work on. The bottom corners are pretty beat up and require some welding repairs. The alloy is nice to work with but it stretches so easily.... Really hate and dont want to do bog work. Will see what its like in epoxy and decide what I'm happy to accept.