cletus

Did a minor brake upgrade, 320mm disc and a caliper spacer on the front and a new standard size disc on the back, mainly because I wanted them to match, there was nothing wrong with the rear rotor. Pads are not that old so re used them Once they bedded in, it made a huge difference (on the front anyway) Instead of the front brake being a gentle retardation device, it now actually works as a brake, that stops! How novel. around town it's one finger on the lever to pull it up. Two fingers you could probably lock the front,if you wanted to fall off, which I dont. I had thought about doing twin discs on the front but the parts are quite hard to find, and expensive HD used to do a kit but that is NLA, the main reason for wanting twin discs was mostly cosmetic . I'll keep an eye out for the parts anyway but it stops good enough that it's not a must do

@MightyJoe works at a compliance place in chch I think? It won't need to have rear seat belts, high stop lights are not a thing any more i think I don't think older cars need to be stripped The only potential headache is repair cert if it's had repairs or rust

Hoist bloke came and had a look, reckons one of the caps looks a bit funky shaped so he's ordered a new one

Hey @fletch Why is smoke coming out of my hoist motor/ sometimes there's no smoke but a burning smell still works fine Brushes chooched? hoist guy said to check capacitors in the box on the side for burn marks ect but nothing looks bad in there

Yes once it has a vin number and it passes all the lvv cert requirements, the cert can be activated ,it doesn't even need to have had the compliance inspection done

Some pics for no reason,more of the same so don't look if you don't like pictures of this motor cycle

Did some tuning on the weekend The carb situation has always been a bit poos for light throttle stuff With a blow thru carb , in very basic terms you jet the primaries for cruise, light load stuff, and rely on the power valve to richen it up under boost, so at bigger throttle openings or coming on boost, the power valve opens and dumps fuel in. The secondaries just get jetted to suit WOT On a blow thru carb the power valve gets boost referenced so it opens at the right time, as it's possible to have boost above the carb but vacuum under it which keeps it closed So the guy that set my carb up had an arrangement of vacuum from under the throttle with a one way valve, a t piece with an adjustable valve that goes to the hat, and this arrangement of bullshit makes the power valve open at the right time in theory The problem is it's incredibly sensitive and hard to get right, the tiniest movement of the adjusting valve makes the pv act differently and can go from rich as bill gates to backfiring lean , and particularly when it's cold if the vacuum drops too much the pv opens and blump blump blumps out black smoke So I got a boost activated power valve instead Normally a power valve is open, until vacuum sucks it shut, so when the vacuum disappears the valve opens , requiring aforementioned bullshit to make it work The boost activated one works the other way around, it's a check ball with a spring and an adjustment screw, so now when there's positive pressure in the bowl ie boost, it pushes the ball open to add fuel It's much better now, went up a jet size front and rear, plus refitted the bowl vent extensions I put an afr gauge on it and it read a bit weird but it averaged out to mid 11 afr under full steam ahead. Half throttle where it used to do weird things is now very good I'd started to think about efi but I'll see how this goes , might not need it now

this will be good if youre looking at buying a car soon, hold off till next year Easing the cost of new and used imported vehicles | Beehive.govt.nz

id suggest going to see Brad at pukekohe VTNZ he is very good at helping with old cars does not take short cuts but knows the system and doesnt get scared of old or different stuff like a lot of entry inspectors do i think hes quite busy at the moment this side of xmas though

It's a pretty big hole he has dug himself into There will probably be more non activated ones coming out of the woodwork in the next few weeks as this spreads As well as him not activating them and pocketing the money, the other issue is wof inspectors have not been checking the certs at wof time so if nobody looks at the cert then nobody knows it's not activated for a year until the next wof Tbh i'm surprised it took this long for something to happen, there has been issues with his service for quite a while Not a great idea to rip people off, when you are talking $700-$1000 for a cert, and if there's multiple people he owes refunds, that's a big pile to find

eeeeeeehhhh pretty sure both hakon and tsd are chinese and pretty average i have certed them but no idea on longevity or parts availability if you are doing something that you want to keep or needs expensive work to fit the shocks ie when you have to weld stuff to knuckles etc id suggest a more known option like bc or fortune auto

the lvv requirements for max offset are actually pretty extreme- 35% of rim width is max offset positive or negative it is pretty rare that its a problem from an offset perspective however, it might drive a bit yuck, and thats going to be up to the certifier depends on the car, front or rear wheels, etc

if the top cup and the recess in the lower arm holds the spring from moving, and the shock keeps it from becoming uncaptive at full extension, that will be fine

If you are going to go through the cert process instead, have a look in the CCM page 14-43 It has the requirements for lap diagonal belt mounting to a roll bar structure

i used crc brake cleaner to free up a sticky throttle in a customers l300 van holy heck the smells it made were terrible, and the was wierd green stuff coming out the exhaust which left a stain on the floor which has not gone away