cletus

can you get a map torch or similar on the bearing housing, give it a bit of a warm up see if that helps

Hate to be that guy... But that block looks like it is cracked? Rusty line suggests it's cracked between the core plugs

I've had a Lincoln SP170 for 20ish years (eek) it's been a great little welder, never had a problem with it

Should be a fun car. What mods have you done to the carbs to run blow through? Are they 450s ?

FYI These are the wheels my boss is doing. They have been polished but no plating yet. Centers had to be removed and get welded back in later They had to be a specific old style rim , and he had trouble finding someone to do it, as they are not perfect. otahuhu chromeplaters is going to do the plating, apparently the old guy that started the business is back running the place again It took the polisher 5.5 hours PER RIM to get them to this stage so I'd hate to think what they will owe him when they're finished

All done and back in action Pan is still quite low but at least the little bump & drain plug are not hanging down as something to get caught on things I added a drain at the back of the pan , it's only a 6mm bolt and not at the bottom but it's not like changing the trans oil is going to be a regular event, it's not that hard to drop the pan off to drain it completely Side note it takes 10l of trans fluid

Probably easier to just take it somewhere else. If he's asking for something that's not in the virm, you could make a complaint . But for the sake of $60 or whatever a wof is now , not worth the headache IMO I got marked down on a performance review for failing a car on a bad rear main leak (like a drip every second sort of bad) The guy said he understood my reasoning, I said it would be dangerous for other road users like motorcyclists, but it wasn't a fail reason in the virm so I couldn't knock it back on that

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact I guess it depends how far you want to push back But I think asking you to strip the underseal is outside of what a wof inspector can require you to do Is it worth going back to him and saying you've read the VIRM and there's nothing in there about requiring underseal to be removed for inspection, you could offer to remove the carpet so he can see the top side if he's worried about rust? Alternatively you could get a panel beaters report and see if he'd accept that , as that's the most a wof inspector can do in this situation

I think that thick lumpy underseal stuff was something that you could get done as an optional upgrade in the 60s/70s to protect the undersides? Common in NZ new old cars, but not seen often on anything imported My VG has it It's pretty horrible, I have seen some old cars where the floor has rusted on the inside but the underseal has been holding it together

There was more hold ups with freight getting a new lever out of the states so Eric from WAER pulled a lever out of one of his own boxes to get me going again Managed to swap it out without pulling the box. I was anticipating much swearing and for it to be a cunt of a job I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was, just needed a long 1/4 extension with a wobbly end to get the bung out that holds the band apply lever pin in The band anchor had fallen out so had to drop the valve body to get that back in the right spot Reassembled and bands adjusted Done for today, I'm going to mod the pan tomorrow, I've never been a fan of the drain plug , it's the lowest point on the car apart from the exhaust so I'll cut it out and make a new one somewhere else

That looks sweet!

I think to chrome a wheel properly the rim has to be removed from the center so all the areas of the wheel can be polished properly , I dunno if it then gets welded back together then chromed or chromed then welded the guy I work for is doing something along these lines for his current build, I'll ask him Bumper replacements in onehunga is the last place I heard was good for chrome but that was a while ago

On the turbo setup in my VG I had the hot side piping done in the extreme stuff, they do a ceramic coat (the white/silver ) then go over that with the black, that was pretty good On my current vehicle I just had them coated in the black, but I think it's either a bit thin or not up to the heat of a turbo setup as some of it has gone rusty in places