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cletus last won the day on July 22

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  1. Last time I bought some , the most economical way was to get them from super cheap But yes, snug fit in the holes, and not longer in the shank than the wheel is thickness wise And steel washers. Also if you are getting close to bottoming out the nut, make sure the wheel stud doesn't taper out at the bottom. I've seen that happen and the nut got stretched bigger at the shank end, making it very difficult to get back out of the wheel...
  2. Driveshaft - russell at driveshaft specialists, andromeda cres east tamaki Hes a good sort
  3. Shit all my cars have bad safety and emissions I'll be calling zebra to come get them all and crush them so I can ride the bus I wouldn't want to sell them to some poor unsuspecting person
  4. My daughters 10th birthday is on the 14th, I hadn't really thought about it that much, when I mentioned it to her, the look on her face made me realise I wont be attending....
  5. Apart from answering the phone a million times to explain the difference between heavy and light certification, and hear all about their camper van and how long they have had it and how many cofs it's already had and how ridiculous the rules are here in nz blah blah blah No, thankfully I dont have to deal with it
  6. Steering column shortened, painted everything, got a clamp type u joint. now have steering again which I find useful
  7. I bought a set of new 14" ones about 10 years ago and I think they were $250 each or thereabouts But 13" ones were not remade as far as I know and are now super rare so I guess you could ask whatever you like? If someone wanted to do a period correct car with 13s they would be a key ingredient
  8. @NickJ I wouldn't think those ex roll bar mounts would be an issue, maybe put some bolts in the holes
  9. Depends on how much movement there is in the engine mounts but I'd aim for at least 30mm at a minimum, more if you can, to allow enough room for a heat shield and air gap and nothing being able to touch
  10. Oh man Every. Single. Time. It's like the first mod when you google "mods to do on subarus " is remove and throw away the heat shield
  11. Emission standard https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Gas_Emissions.pdf There are frontal impact requirements for a new scratch built vehicle but they are very basic and easy to meet Its covered by doing things like leaving the front chassis rails unboxed forward of the suspension mounts, or putting holes in the rails , or using a smaller section material, etc etc
  12. Cut your losses, remake it so it has clearance You need enough clearance for engine movement on the mounts, and it's going to move closer to the booster with engine torque Also need enough room for an effective heat shield with an air gap between both parts
  13. I just used that on a job Do I get a chocolate starfish for being first? *edit* some feedback, the size I'm looking at was not on the old sheet, but is covered on the new one so that's good
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