cletus

If its just a single skin panel, can make hole for piping.

It is do able There are challenges A big one is geometry - it is sometimes difficult to find a rack that works with a front end designed for a box , ie the centers of the rack ends are close together enough to work with the pivot points of the front suspension arms This is why you end up with abortions like those RRS setups for fords Mounting is another thing , the rack needs to go in the right place for bump steer to work, and not hit the engine, and not be too low that it's vulnerable to damage, and the steering shaft to work around the exhaust, correct u j angles etc , and there needs to be something suitable to mount it to Then theres rack suitability vs vehicle weight, you cant use a rack from a small car in something that is heavy, especially if its going to have a power column when it wasn't designed for it These are the main hurdles I can think of off the top of my head

On a road car,I believe it's primary function is masturbatory only, like pop crackle tunes, or "ghost cams "

Anything that does a safety related thing or holds an engine in. Like brake caliper bolts or engine mount bolts or driveshaft loop bolts /nuts

Got a link to the info sheet you are talking about ? My interpretation is currently the same, mod oe engine doesn't need to comply with any requirements in the emissions check sheet , pcv venting is one of those Drive shaft loop if its got more than 50 percent more powers. Battery secured and vented outside the boot Lock washers on any bolts that are not oe Heat shielding anything heat sensitive (brake pipes, abs units) from big hot things like turbz or wastegates etc

if theses nothing stiff, or binding you could try drilling another hole closer to the steering shaft to increase leverage if it has a lot of caster built in, with that much scrub radius it will make it hard to turn as when you turn to steer, it jacks up the inside of the kart this is deliberate on a race kart to lift the inside rear tyre off the ground to make it go round corners betterer

a plus story telling, what a read!

might be a depends on the certifier thing, but if the welds are clearly visible through the primer and not ground or covered in bog/sealer etc i would accept that could chop the boot floor supports down or taper them, i wouldnt remove them fully though

416 Series Shocks | Progressive Suspension those shocks probably cost near what you paid for the whole bike, ha

cert= cant use a OEM wheel from a vehicle with a lower GVM, which is a common issue with commercial vehicles, as they often have a higher gvm than a passenger car

carbs are as dumb as a bag of rocks, and not as efficient as efi, sure but they always work. ok if you leave it sitting for 5 years you might have to hit it with a rock to unstick a float valve. unga bunga. OEM efi is obviously very good, but i have had a lot customers have problems with those bolt on efi 4 barrell things and quite a few with problems on home brewed efi setups i was thinking about putting efi on my plymouth but the one problem my carb was having, part throttle richness, was solved with a small $40 part, now its mint

What a bargain, welcome to motorcycles overtaking cars as the preferred hobby

a while ago I bought some cheap saddle bags off trademe which are very handy but looked like shit as they went saggy, and I didn't like how they attached- they velcro together over the top of the rear guard under the seat. Which doesn't matter at the moment but once it's painted I didn't want that to get damaged There's a company in the states that makes a hard mount kit so I "borrowed " some design ideas from that ,did some scrawling on cardboard. Then @RXFORD kindly turned my gibberish into a proper CAD design with Bathurst spec speed holes added, and got them cut and bent for me by a local company. What a champ. Whizzed up a couple of spacers,bolted on and bingo, done Comes off with 4 bolts so I can run with or without easily

Correct