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cletus last won the day on December 27 2024
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- 133 replies
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heres how the pricing works a cert costs a certifier $270 incl gst, that is the fee paid to lvvta a wheels only re cert, costs the certifier $50, this is the same for a re print of the old alloy plate, or an update to an existing EDP (the donut thing) plus the certifiers time/travel/admin etc Lvvta requires a full set of paperwork for the car and mods, plus the wheels/tyres formset, a brake test, and one other form, so usually it ends up taking just as long as a regular cert check by the time i find all the mods, make sure they match the previous cert, and make sure they are still good or were done properly the first time, so basically, in practice- the only saving is the difference in cost to the certifier ($50 vs $270) so you can still get an old style plate reprinted with a different size wheel, if thats the only change. If theres ANYTHING else changed, then its the full cost, new cert and it gets changed from a plate to a new EDP side note, that $270 is actually subsidised by NZTA a certain amount per cert, so the facebook munters who go on about revenue gathering by the govt need to pull their head in, the govt actually contributes to the cost of running LVVTA and the certification system Autofile - News / Support helps cap certification fee increase
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V3 of exhaust baffles The one that came in it was 2-1/4" louvered, but the louvers faced the wrong way for noise reduction Made previously mentioned 2" one with holes, steel wool that blew out then wrapped in fiberglass header wrap, this survived well but was still a bit rowdy This one is 2" louvered , with them faced for noise reduction, wrapped in stainless muffler packing wool, with a stainless mesh over the top of that
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Yeah, that ^
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This- Put a Jack, or big block of wood under the spring cup on the lower arm, so the tyre is far enough off the ground to fit some sort of lever under it- sometimes there's enough spring tension to disguise the play, jacking it up under the spring cup takes this out of the equation
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This, don't drive it any more till you've jacked it up and figured it out If the joint separates when you're driving, you're going to have a bad time
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Mig I have an owner bottle, it lasts for aaaaaages although I am a fairly occasional user, refills are cheap, bottle was 600 I think but that was a long time ago Tig I have a swap bottle with machinery house, you pay an upfront cost (I think it was about 600 as well? ) and you "own" that bottle, when it runs out you go to machinery house and swap it for a full one and pay the gas price
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I did tell a guy who was a bit conspiracy ish that they have a chip and can be tracked, when I fitted the cert tag, the look on his face was lol
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The problem is not the wof guy being a dick, it's more like the wof guy doesn't want to take ownership of your problem for $80 or whatever a wof costs. Example I've got a customer who gave a car a wof, and it had different size wheels to what the cert said, he blind eyed it because they knew each other, and he was keeping the car etc etc The car then got sold for quite a lot of money The new owner picked up the fact it wasn't certed for the wheels, and wanted it to match The seller of the car put it back on the wof guy, who got me to re cert it, which is when the problems started It wouldn't pass cert due to the wheels rubbing on the body, plus someone had ground the calipers to fit the wheels, so it needed a new pair of rear calipers, and a new set of wheels with the right offset, and the guy who had purchased the car wanted the same wheels, which were quite expensive In the end that wof inspection cost that shop about 10k This is the worst case I've seen, but the same situation happens regularly, where the owner is stoked they got a wof or cert, the buyer of a car doesn't like the car or finds things to pick on, then start pointing fingers at previous inspectors for $$ This is made 10x worse when the vehicle ends up at the other end of the country, because there's no easy way of fixing it without paying someone else to do the work TL;DR =have to stick to the rules to avoid problems later
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Finished Did the carb as well Goes better, is a lot more responsive and definitely has more beans in the midrange of rpm According to the tuning book methods of seeing if its tuned right, it could probably do with next size up in the jets , which came with the carb so I'll try that, I could also put a afr gauge up it's bum to check Slowly getting through the list of improvements, suspension is probably next on the list, as a little bit more ground clearance would be handy
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Ooooffff that's going to look nice
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Rules, for not getting a cert = can't have a non original spring seat = can't have any means of spring location that isn't spring being correct length So those bilstein shocks technically require cert unless factory fitted to that specific vehicle regardless of if they have several circlip grooves or one. As for if you will have trouble with wofs? That will depend on the wof persons knowledge. There's probably tens of thousands of cars that should have a cert that dont, because the most common phone conversation I have is "it's been like that for xxx years and the wof guy says I need a cert now because the rules changed" (they didn't, someone just read the book or got reviewed by nzta)
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Yes, they can be remade
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Random slightly cool stuff you built but not worth its own thread, thread
cletus replied to h4nd's topic in Other Projects
Plz fit side pipe with a glow plug in it, my mitsi van had that accessory and it did awesome blue flames out the side