cletus

run the water through an engine lovely warm water plus the soothing sounds of internal combustion

looks land rovery probably has an upper wishbone attached to the middle of the diff that you cant see

cant see a problem with that if it fits the floor shape and has an equivalent number of spot welds as oem

if the borgeson u joints are the type that have grub screws to attach, i would advise against using these wherever possible they can be certified BUT they always come loose, especially if they are used "downstream" of power assistance, or on a heavy manual setup if possible, use something OEM from a japanese car, and it will never fail this is not always possible though especially going between double d and splined sections a clamp type u joint is vastly better if you can get one the other thing to consider is when you make it hard to steer, ie sticky tyres, lsd, etc and then stick power assist on the column the life of the rack and its mountings, tie rod ends, attachment of the steering arms etc gets a lot harder and must be considered, may need strengthening or at least making as good as possible, like from memory the rack is attached to the car with small u bolts which come loose? that might be something that could be beefed up that side of it is up to the certifier to decide

I beg your pardon sir, the one i looked at was a mark 2, not an s type Information may not be relevant

I did a cert check on a s type a few months ago which has a 327 in it Bit of a tight fit, and the steering interfered with the oil pan a bit Also not sure how it will go with a brake test due to tiny disc brakes

I have certed 2x vehicles with them , that I remember because they went surprisingly well One was in a navara, from memory it had custom manifolds, a big turbo, and a tickled up pump. That one was a accelerate in 2nd gear and it was just on the cusp of wheelspin the whole time type of power, I was quite surprised The other one was a terrano, and he had done a few things to it but head porting was the main difference power wise

ah righto, sorry i missed that bit should be easy enough then the only potential issue is for some reason lvvta has said that inactive air bags must be removed not just disabled that hasnt come up with seats yet though only dash ones im not sure why it matters, and i was talking to someone the other day and apparently the NZTA wording is slightly different and allows for it but i havent had time to look into it

supply as much info as you can to whoever is doing the cert. the text you quoted still applies, i dont know what lvvta will say about air bag mods like what you have done, i have not dealt with anyone doing what you have, so it would require their input at time of the cert inspection the potential issues are, the seats from a different model car, nobody knows if that is going to act the same in a crash when the bags are in a different shape car, so they may require the bags are removed.

Welding is fine if done by a competent welder The design of the bracketry is probably more important than the welding , ie gussets on flat bar sections A bit like engine mounts, if the design of the bracketry is correct then you can use thinner materials

Yeah its first registered in 2003, doesn't need a cat, its in the virm as per what @tortron posted

50x50x5 angle will be well strong enough There isnt a recipe in the book for what you're doing , as long as the bolts are at least 8mm for each corner , it bolts to the original floor anchorages, and its an unstressed seat, the certifier can just use common sense when assessing it

theres nothing about fwd or rear engine car shafts in the book safety wise its not particularly problematic as its only transferring drive, and if they break, the wheel wont fall off, they arent doing heaps of rpm etc. theres no requirement for loops in that situation i would treat them like you would treat an axle in a diff as thats what they are more like, and theres very minimal requirements for those sleeve and plug weld sounds like a good plan

Lifter tick, i speak fluent car seller, probably 2km away from a rod out the side

You need some equivalent of Richard holdener spec youtube 4 link videos Its a big subject to get your head around and its quite interesting to learn about how the geometry of the bars affects how the car works Probably need to figure out what engine, box, tyre type, how fast you want to go, is it going to be road legal or not, etc