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cletus last won the day on June 24

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  1. Try searching 'seat belt barrel bolt' This was common in 50s and 60s cars when lap and diagonal belts became a requirement
  2. Rear lowers will be an issue if they have an adjuster on the inner bush end but it depends how far outboard the shock mount is, LVVTA does not allow any side loading on a threaded joint, sometimes if it is within the load rating of the joint we can pass it if we can do calculations to prove it's ok Fronts if its upper arms, have not done any hardrace altezza ones but the usual issue on that design of suspension is when the car is low enough to need camber arms = the upper ball joint hits the body before the bump stop limits the travel= the car has to be raised= then it doesnt need camber arms any more Also the adjustable arms are usually taller or longer or a different shape in the ball joint mount area so they make the problem worse than with the standard arms In general, hardrace stuff is ok, you do have to make sure the welding is good though as some is shit. The reseller here swears they are all welded by robot but I've seen a few where the robot forgot to turn the gas on, the robot missed the join, or the robot fucked up the weld, ground it down and had another go. Silly robots
  3. A mount attached to the side of a chassis rail has to span the whole height of the rail So if your chassis is RHS you cant butt weld a flat plate to half way down the rail as it will cause cracks. So you could either make gussets that go full height of the rail, or weld a reinforcing plate on first which I'm picking is what you are talking about
  4. You're a brave man Rust like that gives me the heebie jeebies
  5. Sweet! How much tarmac vs gravel do you plan on riding?
  6. Have a look at the modification threshold on that shows what you can do without cert It wouldn't be much though. Tyre size would be limited by no more than 5% greater overall diameter, offset rules limits how sticky outy the wheels can be, and lift would be limited by what springs you can fit in a factory shock and still have 40mm droop
  7. What's the last pic of? I cant see anything Also lol at @piazzanoob plate. Sounds like something my dad says. Good to see the galaxie is mobile again
  8. cletus


    Yeah the surface area of the friction that it relies on to jam the side gears is fuck all compared to even oem lsd units Looks like a less effective version of a lock right unit that costs similar. Although I guess there are applications where one of these might be too aggressive
  9. Mine looks a bit different I think I wired it so the engine runs by itself and the switch earths out the coil, lights etc run off the key
  10. Cant help you because I too am retarded But there was a trap with my one which I'm not sure yours has, the ignition switch has 2 positions , start and run... start has a rpm limit so it cant get away on you Took me a while to figure why it would idle but not rev
  11. Yes definitely get that sorted. Contact your certifier and he should be able to get you a new one
  12. In my experience once they have been welded, they often crack again at the same place or at the edge of the weld I had 3x 19"rims welded by a wheel repair specialist, they were all fucked again within a year. That was on cheap wheels on a car that did a lot of km though so yours might last better