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cletus last won the day on November 6

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  1. Dunno, I think I'd need to run it up the other way so the pipes work, and the inner guards taper in at the bottom so theres not as much room for bends etc
  2. Hmm, decent radiator fans would help as well to get the air moving over it
  3. This is how much of the intercooler gets covered, ends up with 2 x 150x150 squares in the air flow
  4. Anybody used water methanol injection for intercooling? post turbo. I've been reading a bit of stuff which suggests it works quite well. Have been looking at options on my car. Have a water to air ic but it's going to add quite a lot of weight and complexity Air to air also have but the bodywork covers a lot of the core plus would lose bonnet catch It's not going to be a daily or very often so I dont think the methanol required is going to be a big expense
  5. Painting the wheels and a clean makes it look 150% better. Good work Also congratulations on wedding things.
  6. Just turn it around so the wear is on the other side. Good for another 500,000kms m8
  7. Good day to you Peter I briefly thought about it, but it means a lot more work/ rework of things I've already done or purchased, and changes the look of the engine bay quite a lot which I'm not keen on If my plan works, I think it should be quite straight forward and easy to achieve, and still look factory in the engine bay Bilstein shocks with circlip grooves for the lower spring platform Already have springs and upper adjusters in stock Lower arm will need a bush housing machining up, tig it in, will replace Chrysler bush and pin setup with a long bolt , probably use a leaf spring shackle bush setup Strengthening the shock mount I think a curved bar welded to the chassis and shock brace should be good enough I went down a tangent of mounting the turbo at the back again which would have its pluses and minuses but I think this path is easier and potentially a better result
  8. I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount
  9. With the engine and trans in I started to look at what I was going to do for an exhaust I can choose 2 of the following 3 items Rh torsion bar Oil filter An exhaust that actually flows So I think the best option is to put coil springs in it and get rid of the torsion bars. I knocked up a dummy coilover using parts I had kicking around. I'll go see autolign this week and see if they can make a bilstein shock with a circlip adjustable lower platform and I can use the threaded one at the top. If this plan works I'll need to modify the lower arm inner pivot bush and strengthen the shock mount to cope with the weight
  10. Return too small/blocked/ regulator not regulating correctly and making the pump work hard ? Have you got a pressure gauge on it?
  11. A typical coilover with a foam type bump stop can compress quite a lot so you could include 10-20mm of bump stop compression IMO Depends on suspension though and the application so by no means is that set in stone and a different certifier might have a different opinion Also IMO, keeper springs to fix droop issues is a bit of a band aid 'box tick' fix as the whole idea of a minimum amount of droop was to make sure the spring rate was ok for a road car
  12. 40mm bump 40mm droop from ride height. Depending on the car and suspension and bumpstop type, can include some bumpstop compression in that figure
  13. That rsr page has some opinions on the vdo and tilton pumps One of the main reasons I went away from the rear mount idea was the fact you have to rely on an electric pump to keep you going, which would be difficult to get a replacement quickly to get you going again. Which is probably a bit dumb as a fuel pump is the same thing really Those burnsco ones are pretty cheap I guess you could keep one as a backup in the truck if you were worried about it
  14. Is that from the Subarus that have the turbo mounted down under the engine?
  15. Some good info here