cletus

I think LVVTA does as much as it can but they are so busy with dealing with modified cars that they don't have time for much else. I don't really think it's their job to be lobbying for car enthusiasts either, people should be getting together to protect what we have I personally don't think there is anything in the pipeline to get rid of collectible cars directly, apart from 'younger' classics getting caught in the push for safer/more environmentally friendly cars (the whole vision zero thing, and the possibility of a cash for crush scheme) there is a danger in my opinion, of it getting more difficult for environmental reasons, and I don't think this will be a "you can't have an old car" but more along the lines of "fossil fuels are bad and now are very expensive, oh your classic car runs on petrol? That's a shame!"

The 2 tight spots are where the water pump and alternator are, there are other areas where a motor could go but they are not really areas where you could fit a big fan in I have gone in a different direction for now, a mate is making a fan shroud and I'll use some sort of engine driven fan, either this stock steel fan or a alloy/steel flex fan, they are both 17" I wanted to stick with electric because Hp- but no use making another 10hp if I can't drive it because it goes chernobyl Noise, it's not that bad anyway, can't hear shit over all the whizz psh noises Efficiency, it's carb and turbo so I'm a wanker if I think a fan makes any difference I'd done fancy wiring to the fans, well now I have 2 spare 15a potential accessories at the front, maybe a light bar and a winch? If it's still no good maybe a small auxiliary radiator and fan. Even with no shroud it's better than the electric fans, fingers crossed a shroud fixes it completely

Shouldn't touch. you wouldn't need much clearance at full suspension extension though

As far as I know, lvvta is absolutely flat out busy trying to keep up with updating standards and the CCM etc etc So they do try to stay on top of stuff that is important To be fair, stuff like previously mentioned honda struts comes up not very often, I would have certed 1 car in the last 3 years that it affected, and there is already a process in place for someone who wanted to cert a car with aftermarket struts with welded arms . So it is very unlikely that LVVTA would spend any more time on it There are some situations that can never suit everyone unfortunately, or there would have to be 200 people working at LVVTA and the rule book would have to be 4 billion pages long and a cert would cost many many times more Also there isn't a group that represents 'modern' car owners. There was talk of a group being started but I'm not sure what's happening there

Contact justin@lvvta.org.nz I was under the impression that it could be made to fit a standard arm and taper and you base the maximum pin length from that, ie a smaller major diameter would permit a shorter pin than a bigger one would but the wording in one part suggests otherwise, that 16mm is the minimum

Correct The rules don't always work/make sense for every situation unfortunately

These cars are a ballache There's 2 main problems with coilovers on these 1 is the fact that the steering arms are usually a casting or a forging which in general can't be welded or heated in any way 2nd is a steering arm can't be welded so even if it wasn't cast or forged then welding would be an issue There is an info sheet on lvvta.org.nz about getting a welded casting or forging passed but I've never had anyone do it. Apparently when the info sheet came out, BC had a strut tested as per the sheet, it failed, they modified the welding procedure, failed again so they said nz is a tiny market we won't bother. Brand doesn't matter, I've seen issues with both bilstein and kw, some audis have the same design suspension and kw makes a coilover for those that the steering arm is fabricated from multiple pieces and welded together Years ago before that infosheet came out I got a couple of integras approved to be certed with cusco /tein coilovers but that wouldn't work now. The last one I did the owner found 2x stock honda shocks and had them modified to accept a bilstein insert and an adjustable platform, but it couldn't go very low It's become less of a problem as that shape honda was never really that popular

Wof sheet means certifier doesn't have to check wof items as part of cert so that makes it easier However it isn't a complete get out of jail free card, it's a common sense thing. I've had cars come in that have had wof check sheets failing it for things like spot lights not working and they have missed major things like rust in the chassis Also, for example if the tyres are worn or the brake lights don't work, you would want to get that sorted before you take it for cert, part of the cert is a road test and something like no brake lights could make the road test/brake test hazardous. I've always been careful with making sure the car is good before road testing, because if there's an accident caused by a fault that I've found, but chose to drive the car anyway, I'm pretty sure the insurance company would just laugh at me Other thing is a wheel alignment report, the camber shouldn't be more than 1.5deg camber, or .5 degree over max oe spec, whichever is greater. I can't imagine your car would be too bad, having been complied recently it's probably not going to have too many surprises

I'm going to throw out a wild conspiracy theory that your stock pistons could do 9275 rpm before the top comes off, because of the exhaust backpressure pushing down on the top of the piston Once you have a free flowing exhaust your piston lids will come off at 9021 rpms Might be time for some stronger piston return springs

Sort of/not really relevant but I've heard stories of holden 6 pistons breaking in a similar fashion except the skirt and wrist pin part comes off , the top of the piston stays there and the rod keeps going up and down as the skirts keep it located correctly

Thanks to the replies in the tech spam thread which basically reinforced what I was thinking, which is it doesn't have enough air flow and needs a better fan I thought I'll live with the fan noise if that means I can actually drive it So I embarked on the mission of finding an engine driven fan that fits Found the one I wanted on an NZ website , sweet, ordered it. Nope, " no stock sorry" Bugger. Found a different supplier who had one, ordered off their website "Sorry, no stock, they might be here in 3 weeks? " Poos. Local guy had a plastic flex fan , I didn't want one of those as they are a lot deeper but meh I'll give it a shot , chucked it on, needed a bigger spacer so the blade cleared the alternator. spent ages rummaging around for some bolts Started it, ran for a bit, moves heaps of air, good Gave it a rev to about 2500, the inch or so clearance at the bottom became 0 clearance and the fan hit the tank and broke the tip off one blade Ah yes that's why I hate these fans Luckily no damage to the radiator apart from some dinged fins Found a stock 245 steel fan I had in a box under the house, chucked that on, it will do for now and I'll find the one I want I think with a shroud on it should be OK, the mechanical fans move heaps more air. It still creeps up at idle in the shed but no shroud and a slower fan speed than stock due to pulley sizes are the reasons I think

Fuckin dick, no wonder it did surprise wheelspins

Yep camber no more than 1/2 degree over max factory spec 100mm thing doesn't matter for cert Wof check sheet means the certifier doesn't have to check any wof items or exhaust noise Golf's are usually pretty straight forward, most common things I can think of for cert are issues around the front sway bar links being wrong length or drive shaft fouling on the chassis/ sway bar link Also make sure your wheel bolts have 7.5 turns and have the correct seat taper

Are your header pipes the right size or do they need to be bigger? Looks like the design isn't too bad, you might be able to chop off the crappy factory collector and do a better one while the engine is out?

Both, current fans are about 75mm thick and cover full width of the core. I could fit 2x 11" fans if one was up and one down My big concern is it can't keep itself cool now, and I haven't put it under any stress yet. and I don't want to spend $500 to find out it's not that much better/still borderline because a $250 fan isn't better enough than a $80 one After thinking about it a bit more I might be better to live with the fan noise and use a engine driven fanny It's already full of turnips so I can't fit anything else in there