cletus

I think they are pretty good. My valiant has only ever had a stock bw diff apart from a 4 spider lsd that is pretty tight, still 25 spline too. I think it being auto and turbo was easier on it due to no shock loading- I used to check the axle splines fairly regularly and they never showed signs of twisting until it went under mid 12s /boost went to 10psi A manual would be a different story I think

yeah that^. was going to draw a pic, that would be much better. znoelli in auckland makes them to order

steel or alloy, the plastic ones would not be acceptable with a spacer, unless the hub spigot sticks out far enough to locate the wheel properly

nope nothing about exhaust brakes, the only semi relevant thing is adjustable exhaust noise flaps/things like that that adjust exhaust volume are not allowed- but I think if the exhaust is not loud with the exhaust brake off or open, should be ok

probably hold off on NDT till its been thru TAC how to fill out a design approval- https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf

Are those axles out of the same diff that you posted the pic of the hammered ring gear? I'd be interested to know what sort of engine and gearbox combo caused all the carnage. Axle chat is also interesting, over the years I've heard varying opinions on what is the best way to shorten axles, I had one done that had welded axles- Terrano ends with bw center, never gave any trouble, it only had 3.8l of moo power though

definitely a good idea to use centering spacer. there was a q&a thing on the lvv website which said you couldn't redrill a 4 stud disc to 5 stud or vice versa, but have had a few brake kits approved like that where the holes were pretty close together, but then had a plate over the extra holes so the whole thing was sandwiched together a lot of the MRP brake kits come with multi drilled discs

pretty much, should also have enough travel with un modified bump stops

its a lot easier to buy a wilwood/tilton/ap pedal box in my opinion the rules are a bit tricky to find because they are not all in the same place. are you wanting to make your own?

have had people in the same situation who have added another mount in line with the gearbox mount to strengthen the offset crossmember, and others who have moved/ made new mounts in the tunnel so the crossmember can be straight the test I use is pretty basic, I grab the driveshaft or gearbox, if i can flex it up and down much, it needs sorting.

can I make a suggestion without sounding like a know it all that gearbox crossmember- I have seen a few like that where the weight is offset from the mounts a fair distance, and they usually have a lot of flex, ie enough to fail cert

@johnny.race have you had much to do with 8.8 ford diffs?

I think if you think of it in a dumbed down way it becomes clearer Like if you try to undo a tight wheel nut with a short ratchet vs a powerbar. Same theory, you have more leverage the further away your hand gets the less pressure you have apply with your hand. In my experience a car will always stop better and resist fade better with a larger disc. Have had examples where people have upgraded calipers, ie one customer had a commodore with a v8 swap, it failed the brake test because it still had 6cyl brakes which are basically the same as v8 ones apart from the disc diameter. He put wilwood calipers on the 6 cyl disc and it still failed. Went to v8 size disc and it passed

Plenty of oe brake upgrades like that, same caliper and pad but bigger disc 1800 mx5 vs 1600 FG XR6T vs non turbo Are a couple that spring to mind

Yep no reason why you can't do that