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mikey

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  1. Perfect! Amazing. Thanks @GregT I'll order one now
  2. Oh thanks @GregT they seem super simple. I'll definitely follow that up, some of the poor performance is down to the timing variations. Just need to work out which model will work best.
  3. Hey @Reid I've had two DVR2s, the first one I cooked somehow. It was my fault but can't exactly remember what I did, some sort of short. The second one has been mint, no problems and so much better that the OEM setup. The Dynastart itself has been a bit of a pain, i've pulled it apart and replaced bushes a few times. Main issue is getting any oil in there will quickly screw it up. I'd love to have found an electronic ignition for it but never worked out what I could use there as they all seem to be CDI style, rather than run off the battery. So I'm just running points, which seem fine. The biggest problem with the bike is it's so gutless it struggles up some hills, would be interested to see if yours runs better.
  4. Rust aye? Am I right?! I found this little bubble of rust making party on the firewall next to the fuel reg. Awww noes The bit betwixt the firewall and this heater duct was chock full of factory seam sealer, it's pretty tricky to get to, so fair enough I guess. But all that seam sealer trapped water, leaves etc. So I cut it out and made a new duct by beating the living bejeezers out of it around some wood. Welded some more bits to it Removed all the old seam sealer & rust along the length of the scuttle. Welded and ground in the new duct. Seam sealed and painted. So lovely.
  5. Got some new axles made by Gearcutting Services and she's all go.
  6. I've had a tiny amount of play in my rear wheel bearings so decided to rebuild my whole rear-end New CVs, bearings, aftermarket stub axles & companion flanges to take a 108mm CV. Old vs new stub axles. They have a larger splined diameter and are beefier at the wheel flange. This now shifts the weakest point in the driveline to my r180 diff, but it should be good enough for my engine. I also replaced all diff seals & o-rings so hopefully it stops leaving little puddles on the floor now. I couldn't get a micrometer inside the hubs to confirm, but I've assumed the play was from the bearing spacers getting overtightened and mushrooming slightly. So I cut some 0.05mm shims and torqued the hubs up and things feel right now. The left hub required two shims. Everything seems to measure up correctly and there's no play anymore. Rad! However. At this point I realised I have a problem. Since my new companion flange accepts a 108mm CV directly, I no longer need to run the CV adapter plate I used to use. This means my axles are now 25mm too short. FML. Cars aye!
  7. Never mind, I used my neighbours press. Thanks guys.
  8. Anyone near Mount Eden able to lend me 5 mins of your press? Don't make me resort to whacking them on
  9. mikey

    V6 exhaust help

    Good ideas guys. After flicking thru that Muff thread, I'm guessing the advice is stick to 3"? If so I could possibly keep my current muffler and just try a two-into-one in the tunnel. If no good upgrade the final muffler. Starting to sound like a plan
  10. mikey

    V6 exhaust help

    Yeah, just been going through their catalogue. They look pretty good. I'm just not sure if I should have a resonator in the tunnel or a muffler. I'm fine if the car is pretty quiet, so am leaning towards a proper muffler. But not if that'll mean it's "drone-y"?
  11. mikey

    V6 exhaust help

    Yeah man, has been yonks! I've not had a garage for a long time so not been able to get into any car stuff for aaaages. Yep, space is definitely the issue. I like the sound of putting a proper muffler in the tunnel, I'll investigate what space I have there. There's not much space to fit a muffler on the opposite side from current as the fuel tank takes that side. So I think I'll be limited to just the two. Will arrange as much pipe as possible after the final muffler. Sounds like 2.5" should be plenty for a stock VQ35, I'm guessing the smaller diameter makes for a less boomy sound? Any suggestions for muffler suppliers in AK?
  12. Hola guys. I'm keen to redo my exhaust to give more ground and tunnel clearance, plus make it a quieter. I know, uncool. The engine is a VQ35DE - Nissan V6, in a 240z. This is a pic of the exhaust when it was made. It's got some cheap XForce headers into two 2.5", into those resonators then goes to 3" and out an offset oval muffler of some sort. I can't find the deets on that; it was from Wolfe Mufflers. Those resonators knock against the tunnel and scrape along the ground. So I'm keen to ditch them, or replace with one I can tuck higher in the tunnel, depending on what effect it'll have on sound. Currently it sounds pretty good and has a good bark, but is just way too loud for cruising about. Also wondering if half the volume issue is caused by having a 3" pipe, seems excessive. Hoping some of you legends can give some pointers?
  13. So, I'm doing a bunch of stuff to this to make it a nicer car to drive around in. It's pretty noisy, fumy, rattly, leaky & clunky. Nothing too major, just redoing some bits and pieces I should've done better first time round. Right now I'm replacing some diff seals and sorting out some exhaust knocks. This is a pic of the exhaust when it was made. It's got some cheap XForce headers into two 2.5", into those resonators then goes to 3" and out an offset oval muffler of some sort. I can't find the details on that, it was from Wolfe Mufflers. Those hotdogs knock against the tunnel which is annoying. But the exhaust is also too loud when not driving fast for me these days. So wondering if some exhaust guru can tell me what a better option is to cut down on noise. Ideally I'd go from 2.5" into 3" after that gearbox mount and then put one big resonator in the tunnel. That way I'd gain a lot more clearance. But if that's not an option and I keep the two resonators I'll probably notch the bottom of the tunnel to get better clearance. Once resonator would save a tonne of work thou. Thoughts?!
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